Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Levi’s Customized and Tapered
Levi’s iconic 501 has been a wardrobe staple for generations. Altering its distinct high waist, button-down front, red tag or peg-top leg comes amiss regarding nostalgia. What Jakob Davis and Levi Strauss started some 150 years ago was the uniform of old Hollywood bad boys such as James Dean and Marlon Brando and turned 90s girls like Shannon Doherty of “90210” fame into sexy vixens. This spring, a fresh and hip take on the so-called mom jean, with different washes, shreds and funneled legs, elevates the 501 to the zeitgeist. Astonishingly, the CT embraces all the classical features of the 501, while banishing some of the pants’ less flattering downsides. Gone are the days of super tight jeans for statuesque skinny boys and girls. Pulling the pant up to the waist retains the sexy slim-leg silhouette while a classic regular fit can be achieved by pulling down the waistband a bit. Getting one a size larger achieves the über-comfy boyfriend fit. Each pair can be altered further, either with tried and tested sanding paper and scissors, or appliques, makers and all things imaginable to truly make this must-have your own.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Sopopular at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Sopopular had clearly been mixing with the wrong crowd this season, bearing all the markers of the tough tribe with the bullet-hole knits and bomber jackets in a plethora of panther-black leather.
Three-quarter length pants in felted wool crumpled up at the midriff, waistbands folding over like neat paper bags. Crew neck sweaters were glossed in a sable sharkskin sheen or decked in chunky rope, each an understated elaboration, yet resounding in their effect.
Winning friends through dominion? Sopopular will show you how.
Narrow collar shirts emerged in all-over ebony leather, while cropped tracksuit bottoms assumed similarly supple skins. Macintosh raincoats and capes were sapped of all pigment, their parchment-paper translucence layered over an ink-black uniform, making way for fuzzy plush dressing-gown coats, knotted nonchalantly at the middle.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
So mysterious, so dandy. Giorgio Armani, a fashion figure like no other, delivers one quality offering after another. While his secret to everlasting greatness remains unknown, one can’t be blamed for at least trying to decode Mr. Armani’s work, be it women’s or menswear. In fact, the Emporio Armani FW15 men’s collection was all about decoding, deception and espionage, minus the blood and fantastical action scenes.
An army of smouldering spies stepped out on the catwalk decked-out in playfully thought-through ensembles that would make even Bond proud. And there was so much goodness to choose from: perfect knits, elevated by asymmetrically-placed zippers, cropped cocoon coats, ribbed ultra-luxe sweats worn with mischievous bombers or pressed leather jackets, cosy fur snoods... With that in mind, it wasn’t the impeccable craftsmanship that left a lasting impression, but instead the sometimes under-appreciated versatility that permeates all of the beloved designer’s work. All in all, it’s mission accomplished.
Dsquared2 at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
For some people, two decades could seem like a lifetime. For Dean and Dan Caten, however, it’s just the beginning. In celebration of Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, the Canadian fashion mavericks presented a roller-coaster of a show, a heart-warmingly concupiscent homage to their native land and Italian roots.
Complete with buffed-up boys-next-door and a red-hot Mary J. Blige, the jubilant FW15 presentation offered a lot more than just a mere revival of the “North American lumberjack” fantasy. Though distressed low-rise jeans, fur-trimmed parkas, shearling coats and oversized plaid shirts were at the core of the collection, the Caten twins had a few more Americana-infused tricks up their sleeves.
Galant, beautifully embroidered evening suits, for instance, were juxtaposed with fringed leather jackets and minuscule vests, tan cowboy belts and studded over-the-shoulder satchels. And if that’s not enough, add a neon pink zip-up coat to the mix. Here’s to the next 20.
Moschino at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
It’s FW15 at Moschino and what’s the vision for the season? A winter rave at the top of a snow-capped mountain. He may have been Creative Director for little less than a year, but when it comes to Jeremy Scott, you quickly learn to expect nothing short of fantastical.
His blizzard club culture coins sartorial snow wear, reconfiguring the jeans pockets of bleached 401s to live on as the unlikely insulation of the ski puffa. Thrown over bare chests, cropped shearling bombers and gold patchwork padded jackets bring cool down to sub-zero.
Faux fur is party to further fraudulence at the hands of bold animal skins, garish cow and zebra prints rendering fuzzy pelts brilliantly crass. Rough buffalo checks and Davey Crockett fox tails evoke an outdoorsy masculinity, while python print leather trousers, kilts and long johns revive the 80s club kid uniform – snow boots, goggles and full fur knapsacks, meanwhile, see them suited and booted for snow.
'Elastic Heart' by Sia Starring Shia Labeouf
Few music videos bear the hallmarks of exceptional iconography these days – rarely do they execute it twice – but the rulebook goes out the window with Sia’s latest release, rendered all the more surreal for its casting of Shia LaBeouf.
An extension of the narrative behind her unforgettable Grammy-nominated promo for ‘Chandelier’ released in May last year, the video for ‘Elastic Heart’ proves an equally unforgettable sequel, again featuring platinum-haired protagonist Maddie Ziegler, this time dancing alongside LaBeouf. Under the confines of a giant iron cage set in a steely vacant warehouse, Ziegler and LaBeouf present a poignant performance, the same iconic nude leotards ravaged by dirt, carving the contour of second round of awe-inspiring choreography, crafted under the artful eye of film-maker Daniel Askill. To brand the film a mere music video would be an injustice; here we have the second of two extraordinary works of art.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
Alles Maskerade at Museum Villa Rot
'Alles Maskerade', a collective exhibit presented by the Museum Villa Rot (Burgrieden, Germany), explores the concepts of masquerade and carnival within the framework of contemporary art. The act of dressing up can be interpreted in many different ways, and can have just as many meanings. But how do masquerades hold up to their cultural value in the postmodern media age? And what impact do they have on contemporary art?
The showcase is part of a larger exhibition project, created in collaboration with the MEWO Kunsthalle and curated by Stefanie Dathe (Museum Villa Rot) and Axel Lapp (MEWO Kunsthalle).
The exhibit will feature the works of the following artists: Axel Hoedt, Phyllis Galembo, Kristof Georgen, Fergus Greer, Imme van der Haak, Thomas Hörl, Klaus Pichler, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Jacqui Stockdale, Jean Tinguely, Urban Camouflage and Miguel Walch.
Alles Maskerade: 16 November, 2014 – 22 February, 2015. Burgrieden, Germany.
All images via Axel Hoedt's www.exhibitionviews.co.uk
CHANEL Pre-Fall 2015
'Reincarnation', the short film starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams, was a prelude to the Paris-Salzburg 'Métiers d'art' show. Capturing the Austrian city's musical past (Salzburg was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and served as the backdrop for 'The Sound of Music'), as well as its Baroque heritage, the collection, presented in Salzburg on 2 November, was brimming with historical references.
Variations of the CHANEL jacket (single-breasted, buttonless, cape-like, bolero, embroidered – you name it) were, rather understandably, the collection's focal point. It was here, in Salzburg, where the idea for the quintessential jacket was born thanks to Gabrielle Chanel's encounter with an impressively dressed lift operator at the city's Mittersill Hotel.
Baroque references were especially evident in the rich detailing – shimmering appliqués, gilded hooks and buttons, extravagant neck pieces and ruffled collars and sleeves. Adhering to the Alpine theme, models kept warm in tube socks or wooly tights, cosy jumpers and earmuffs.
Prada Opens New Menswear Store in Frankfurt
Prada has opened a new store in Frankfurt, dedicated to the brand's men's collections. Spread over two floors, the 1000 square metre space, located on the central Goetheplatz, was designed by architect and frequent collaborator Roberto Baciocchi and houses menswear, accessories, footwear and leather goods; it also accommodates 'Made-to-Order' and 'Made-to-Measure' services.
The Frankfurt location is defined by Saint Laurent marble floorboards, blood orange walls and a marble staircase. Masculine furniture and strong design accents elevate the refined interior.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Miuccia Prada presented us a quirky female villain from a cartoon, ready to take over the planet. Even though Miuccia herself has already taken over, we would like to discuss some of the things this antihero was wearing. Covered in pastels, bows and soft fur patches on her shoulders, this lady does not seem harmful at first sight. Cropped pants and groovy prints add to her innocence, while long leather gloves suggest otherwise. This girl is ready to do some dirty work.
We saw brilliant tailoring, beautiful details and fascinating combinations of textures. Brooches and buttons were quite subtly added to every look, making sure that every ensemble was screaming Prada. Not that Miuccia needs a few brooches for that, because everything we saw during this show could not be created by anyone else.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
Design Museum London x Akris
click to play "Fashion Power Travel" video
Albert Kriemler, the creative director of Akris, has designed a capsule collection for the travelling woman. Inspired by modern businesswomen, he created eight items that are practical, comfortable and at the same time very stylish. Each garment is created in such a way that everything fits into a carry-on, and can be pulled out without ironing. It’s about travel and effortlessness, which is precisely what we need.
ZURICH revolves around Nina (Wende Snijders), who roams the freeways of Germany, in search for the ability to forget her past. Along the way, she meets German truck driver Matthias (Sacha Alexander Gersak), with whom she develops a relationship. Her brokenness gives the film an atmosphere, which lures you in.
Director Sacha Polak chose multitalented Wende Snijders to play the lead and wrote the role for her, which makes ZURICH Snijders’ film debut. Polak received the prestigious Berlinale Residency for her script, which was her second film. She got to work with film experts in Berlin, and premiered ZURICH at the Berlinale.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Telfar Clemens is a man with an opinion. As a designer, he dares to question beauty, taste and gender. His latest collection does exactly that, and brings an effortless selection of garments that fit perfectly into an urban setting.
He combines tight, knitted tees with boxy, wide leg jeans, which make the models look like construction workers that just walked out of the fifties. By cutting out fabric around the knees and on the chest, Telfar shows a good amount of skin. Some knitted pieces are assembled in such a way, that they even seem to show as much skin as they cover. Whether you agree with Telfar’s view on fashion or not, we all can agree on the fact that he has managed to bring something new to New York.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Kenzo’s geek went intergalactic this season, all aliens and anoraks with a street sensibility.
Sonorous hues were muddied, thrust off-key to droning ochres and teals. Combat jackets were cuffed with ribbed thumbholes, while fingerless gloves slipped subversively under slim-fit boiler suits. Flight bomber jackets were pulled by plummy claret tones, topped by chubby fur collars, all the shades of a splendidly sickly rainbow.
Drawstring bags were rustled from rigid vinyl leathers, plasticky and grooved like a twist-tie sack. Marled knits were basted together with blue bootlace wools, an orderly striped patchwork, profound with a plush grain – the letters ‘UFO’ emblazoned in a ‘found’ appliqué alphabet. Devoré velvets carried sunburst hues, puddling over pilot jackets that snatched above striped woollen flares, while hairy fur coats emerged in a monstrous green. Acrid orange denims were marbled by an acidic wash, while ski suits and sweaters were scrawled in batik insignia. Dense leather skins bore a steely silver grain, capes cloaking bodies like tailored reflective blankets or trickling to the floor in the form of baggy pants. Now we’re more than ready to enter the space age.
KRISVANASSCHE at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The difficulty with skinny slim line tailoring is that is struggles to ward off the inevitable comparisons to Mod, its own merits forever eclipsed by those of its doppelganger. Kris van Assche’s, on the other hand, delivered far more than mere pastiche.
The sheen of a silver-grey suit set a simple canvas, invigorated by a peppering of a forest-green polo neck, almost futuristic in cartoonish clean-cut jersey. Fluid geometrics played out across the surface of sweaters, rounded shapes puddling in inky off-hues. Shirts, too, obeyed a strict simplicity, an unsullied ice blue dotted with a plummy silk inset, while black wool coats were accosted by a splodges of grass green satin.
Pinstripes and parkas recalled the said Mod, but were vamped up with a slick sheen, their proportions inflated; fur-lined coats were cropped and bulbous, their characteristic combat greens traded in for a cheaper and flashier pea-green model – and all the fresher for it. Cigarette pants were swapped for flares, sweeping over sturdy leather sneakers for a modern mod uniform.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
You can always trust Yamamoto’s edge to be dependably cutting – razor-sharp, in fact, as he severed silken hems and butchered buttoned-up blazers, rumpling scraggy shirts and waistcoats in his path. The emphasis on tailoring made a good effort to scrub-up smart, but it goes without saying that Yamamoto thrives in a state of dishevelment.
Unfailingly monochromatic, sable-black dominated the spectrum where tailoring was concerned, as tissue-thin silk sheaths were piled high to form blouson shirts and broad beaches – only in their eventual rough-cutting was their ply revealed. Knits were patched to weave dichotomous co-ords, charcoal grey ribbed wools stitched to bulky navy arans, unfinished, asymmetric and aptly bedraggled. Then there were those marbled velvets – plush and unctuous in their inky hues; strewn over untucked shirts and washout tees, the look was that of a drifter as opposed to debonair – and all the more alluring for it. After all, Yamamoto never could keep from wandering…
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Maison Margiela at London Collections: Couture 2015
They let him in and they let him reign; John Galliano’s flamboyance was certainly rendered more cultured under Maison Margiela, but one thing was clear – little was going to wane that wilful grandiosity.
From the first look to the last, an artisanal feast before our eyes, tortuously elaborate – almost imperial in its sculpting of the silhouette, embroidered coats rotund at the hips like the curve of a Fabergé egg.
Evidence that all this was the product of Margiela’s surrealist atelier arrived with the threadbare tatters scuffing the knees of stockings and rough, buff, tailor-chalked toiles. But just as Margiela’s presence permeated, Galliano’s was equally palpable – gaudy faux tiger-skin tailoring and gowns emblazoned by inflated PVC portraits. Fantasy was never far from the imagination, and Galliano’s was certainly indulged. Denim hotpants at couture? Only Galliano would dare.
J.W. Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Designers are a divided bunch; there are those who are disciples of beauty, and those who are disciples of thought. And then there’s J W Anderson – an exceptional master of both.
A single glance affords inescapable parallels to fashions past; flared legs and fluted cuffs belted by square psych pilgrim buckles and paired with spread lapels. Some might think it a perverse indulgence in all that’s ugly – a severe case of cacophilia – making a fetish of all that causes the skin to crawl. Brown leather trenchcoats bedecked, effeminate bodies – bare save the bolster of a chunky knitted choker. Giant daisy buttons dotted the chests of beige duster coats like girlish gingerbread men, but hyper-bland. Taupe conquered again, this time stretching over languid limbs as a slinky elastane number, tediously dreary and yet ripe for the disco.
Shearling suede coats were reconfigured as mod bombers, tight to torso while 90s bootcuts flared. Leather received the lurid treatment, emerging as cherry-red trousers and violet-stained jackets, replete with the delightfully repulsive silver ring zipper. Knitwear was, likewise, unashamedy plain, monotonous in mushroom bar a tubular roll of crimson to pipe a cartoonish turtleneck. The effect was that of a marvellously lacklustre Jetsons – the color turned down to a brilliant beige. As for a patchwork of fashions past, how could such a futuristic reference be nostalgic?
Ziggy and Stephan Marley Front John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Music trails John Varvatos like a shadow. So sweetly coupled are the two, twenty-one impossibly iconic seasons have seen Varvatos join forces with the likes of Iggy Pop, Willie Nelson, KISS and Ringo Starr, to name but a few – and the affinity extends to their latest collaboration, finding fitting figureheads in none other than Ziggy and Stephen Marley.
The Spring 2015 campaign was shot in Austin, Texas, by legendary rock photographer, Danny Clinch, and features the Marley brothers as the centerpiece of a striking and stoic family portrait.
Stripped down to its essence, the black and white portrait frames the siblings with a quiet yet charismatic purity, their pride and spirit speaking through against timeless sable-black tailoring; Ziggy Marley wears a black crocodile jacquard tuxedo and Richard dress shoe, while Stephen Marley is dressed in one button peak lapel Austin version, paired with a charcoal dress shirt and cap-toes.
An idea conceived under the eye of longtime Varvatos collaborator, YARD, the family portrait will be brought to life with the launch of an exclusive short documentary film directed by Clinch, in celebration of their father’s 70th birthday which falls on February 6th.
The film will debut on www.johnvarvatos.com on February 5th 2015.
Un Mondo Nuovo by Ennio Capasa
Swapping the stoic classicism of Milan for the pulsing pace of Tokyo in the early eighties must have confronted quite a culture shock to a young Ennio Capasa. After completing his studies in Southern Italy, Capasa, just twenty years old, uprooted to Tokyo to work under the ultimate avant-gardist, Yohji Yamamoto, for three years, before returning to Italy to establish his own inimitable label, CoSTUME NATIONAL.
The leap was a lucrative one, an experience every bit as surreal as the aesthetic he was augmenting. Fulfilling a promise he had made to Fumi Yamamoto, Yohji’s mother, Capasa has released a book, Japan: A New World (Un Mondo Nuovo), immortalising his time spent in Japan – a chapter of his life which cast the die for his instinctively polyhedral work.
As an exceptional extension to the book, from 11th December 2014, Un Mondo Nuovo will illustrate the tale with the launch of its dedicated internet platform and parallel Instagram and Tumblr channels. The global interactive diary serves as a sensory mood board, exposing an fresh facet of Capasa’s intellect and experience, brought to life by videos, sound and news unearthed from the unpublished archive of a master who has ceaselessly innovated for over 25 years.
Valentino New York Flagship Celebration
On 10 December, 2014, the House of Valentino will celebrate the recent opening of its new Fifth Avenue flagship store. The evening will see the presentation of an exclusive Haute Couture capsule collection, created especially for the event by Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The magnificent 20,000 square foot store, conceptualised by the brand’s Creative Directors in collaboration with ‘David Chipperfield Architects’, houses women’s ready-to-wear and accessories as well as the complete men’s collection. A special area is dedicated to Denim Made to Measure.
Opened in August 2014, the Fifth Avenue location is the second Valentino boutique in the Unites States to carry the men’s offering.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
House of Small Wonder Berlin
Four years ago, Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies opened the House of Small Wonder in Williamsburg, New York. It didn't take long for the greenhouse-like café, specialising in delicious comfort foods with a Japanese twist, to become a cherished place for breakfast and brunch.
The newly-opened Johannisstrasse branch, designed by Prop House's Jonathan Margulies, shares the same energising atmosphere and mouth-watering cuisine. Here, specialist dishes like the Okinawan Taco Rice and the Tsukune Don (a Japanese chicken meatball with sweet soy sauce) are served alongside New York favourites (poached eggs with wasabi hollandaise sauce, fluffy ginger and sesame pancakes and bacon shiso infused waffles, to name a few) and freshly-baked homemade bread, croissants and gluten-free cookies, bound to be appreciated by Berliners.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Sjaron Minailo is a child of the nineties, and of postmodernism. Throughout the years, he has always found inspiration in the works of musician and artist Björk. He has now directed a new piece based on her album Medúlla, where several generations meet to celebrate the art of the opera.
The spectacular costumes and intriguing set have been designed by Henrik Vibskov, who has managed to create a visual style that fits Medúlla perfectly.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Here’s a question: who would ever think that mixing a pair of baby pink roll-up pants with a patterned burgundy full-zip sweater is a good idea? Federico Curradi, the Creative Director of Iceberg’s menswear line, for one, certainly would - and rightly so. As awkward as the pairing sounds, the surprisingly effervescent look was just one of the highlights of the Italian brand’s Milano presentation.
There was something soothingly poetic about Iceberg’s latest offering. The aforementioned pants. The shrunken beanies. The Seinfeld-esque fit. By combining undersized pieces with their ballooned-up counterparts, Curradi delivered the utmost magical ensembles, albeit perhaps a little strange-looking to the untrained eye.
There’s no denying that under Curradi’s masterful direction in the men’s division, the one-time knitwear-only specialists have grown into a fashion force to be reckoned with. And with no more than 20 looks for FW15, the public is inevitably left craving for more. Quality over quantity? At Iceberg, any time.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
BOSS Womenswear Pre-Fall 2015
They say opposites attract. Should you need any convincing, Jason Wu’s latest collection for BOSS Womenswear provides perfect proof.
Pre-Fall 2015 painted a picture of contrasts, inverting male and female sartorial codes with playful wit for an all the more considered take on androgyny.
Longstanding BOSS icons orientated the aesthetic, bolstered by a stalwart menswear motif in both outline and adornment. Windowpane and houndstooth checks are pregnant in scale, caricatured as pixelated macro prints or re-woven as tweeds, tailoring redefined by this new modern heritage. Digitized suiting fabrics arrived in the form of laser-cut chiffon, jacquard knit and fine herringbone beading, sombre in its monochrome baseline but revitalised by flashes of verdant green.
Evening dresses strike a covetable balance between tuxedo and sumptuous gown; the tuxedo softened by an extended shirt, and the gown rendered redolent by a hardy composition of geometric chiffon panels, engineered to the body.
And the role reversal extended to the accessories, with cufflinks replacing the hardware detail on handbags, belts and Chelsea boots, reconfigured under androgyny’s idiosyncratic eye. “A marriage of opposites”, as Wu so coined it. A match made in heaven, to all intents.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense at Pace London
During the '60s and the '80s, the Robert Fraser Gallery played an important role in the British art scene. Opened in 1962 by dealer and Swinging London fixture, Robert Fraser, the institution supported and helped launch the careers of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Portrait of John Edwards Francis Bacon, 1988
Over the years, the London gallery became a social hub for iconic entertainers such as John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, William Burroughs, Marianne Faithful and Marlon Brando, many of whom were close friends of Fraser. Paul McCartney has even referred to the gallerist as “one of the most influential people of the London sixties scene”, while Richard Hamilton forever commemorated Fraser and Jagger’s drug-related arrest in his seminal work, ‘Swingeing London 67’.
Swingeing London 67R Hamilton
Delving in to the live and career of Robert Fraser, Pace London will reveal “a personal portrait” of the scintillating man. Curated by Brian Clarke, who was once represented by Fraser, ‘A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense” will capture the essence of the noted gallerist through a series of works by Francis Bacon, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Richard Hamilton, Jean Dubuffet, Dennis Hopper and many more. The exhibition will coincide with Clark’s solo presentation, ‘Spitfires and Primroses’, also at Pace London.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense: 6 February – 28 March, 2015 (6 Burlington Gardens) Spitfires and Primroses: 13 February – 21 March 2015 (6–10 Lexington Street)
Scugnizzi by Brett Lloyd
‘Scugnizzi’, the title of photographer Brett Lloyd’s new book, refers to the local kids in Naples who spend their summers hanging out on the city’s poorest beaches.
The Neapolitans are far from shy; they embrace themselves and their bodies, making for perfect photographic subjects. Over two summers, Lloyd captured these youths and their older peers, creating a catalogue of alluring, emotive and highly personal mementos.
‘Scugnizzi’, published by 'Dashwood Books NYC', will be launched on 10 December, 2014, at the ‘Donlon Books’ in London.
In Focus: Play at J. Paul Getty Museum
Summer, The Lower East Side, New York City, 1937. Weegee (Arthur Fellig). The J. Paul Getty Museum. © International Center of Photography
Photography was introduced in 1839. Around the same time, as a result of the Industrial Revolution, a number of people in Europe and the United States were starting to discover the perks of having a previously unimaginable amount of free time.
During the 1850s, the notion of leisure became a photographic subject; activities like visits to amusement parks and circuses and playing in the street were now recorded, highlighting the myriad ways in which people can spend their free time.
From 23 December, 2014, to 10 May, 2015, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles will present more than two dozen images from the institution's permanent collection. 'In Focus: Play' will trace the development of photography, all the while revealing the very nature of recreation.
The exhibition will feature photographic works by prominent and lesser-known artists such as Diane Arbus, Imogene Cunningham, Roger Fenton, Man Ray and Larry Sultan.
In Focus: Play 23 December, 2014 – 10 May, 2015
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
J.W. Anderson is showing us something we have never seen him do before. He is introducing a new way of layering, with green, black and white corduroy pants under skirts and dresses. Anderson’s inspiration is visible in every part of the collection. Exaggerated shoulders, bright colors, draped velvet, shiny metallic and large plastic rings that accentuate the waist all reflect the early eighties.
Ankle length leather coats in light pink and dark brown and knee-high boots with draping on the top stood out the most during his show.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
Tokyo in Berlin
Nine years have passed since the opening of Zenkichi in Brooklyn. This year, owners Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies have chosen to open a second branch in Berlin. They recently moved to Germany to open their café ‘House of Small Wonder’ in Mitte, and decided it was time to introduce authentic Japanese dining.
To mimic a true Japanese dining experience, Watanabe has chosen for a private and closed interior. The restaurant is divided into 35 private booths, where you can even pull down bamboo blinds if needed. Watanabe and Margulies stay away from Japanese clichés and get to the essence of the culture with their menu, interior and overall atmosphere.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
When it comes to sumptuous ornamentation, you can always trust Dries van Noten to come up trumps. FW15 may well have opened with the utilitarian, but that soon succumbed to the not-so-cheap thrill of paisley brocade and silk jacquard.
Sand combat pants puddled around the calf – their drainpipe cousins peeping beneath as a matching underlay. Navy pea coats in felted wool paraded their buttons just off-centre, necks syphoned by funnel collars and chests ruled with black grosgrain bands. Mandarin coats almost bypassed as duffels in their heavy yarns, finished off with industrial steel toggles and high-vis white stripes.
Eiderdown quilting doubled as jogging pants, cuffed curtly at the ankle and finished with an un-socked leather loafer. Kilts curtained cigarette pants – a folkish citation rendered esoteric with the addition of a button flap pocket, replete with ornate woven trim. Silk shirts bore floral prints in indigo and moss green, unbuttoned to the lower chest and left to slink off shoulders. Tees, though obeying to basic form, were beguilingly baroque, tiled in hypnotic oriental prints. Scarcely was a surface safe from a stout steeping in history – but then you could expect nothing less from a chronicler like Dries.
Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
Balmain Unveils Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Sorrenti
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
The campaign, shot under the illusive gaze of Mario Sorrenti, extracts an essence of 1970s French cinema, with its warped realism and bleak urban outlook. Outfitted in a suitably subversive uniform, Balmain’s matchless cuts are none short of revolutionary under the agenda of Rousteing’s very modern warfare – everyday environments reinterpreted as pop battleground, prising fast food and eyes wide, entranced by video games, or fighting under the stark strip-lights of the subway. A covetable crusade indeed.
Launch of Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools 2015
'The Babysitter' by Rosie Rendles. 2014 shortlist.
This year's 'Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools' is now open for submissions. The globally-oriented competition aims to encourage and guide emerging artists by providing them with a platform to present their work. Primary, secondary and sixth form schools from all over the world are welcome to enter as many students as they wish, provided they are up to 18 years old. It should be noted that there are no restrictions on the medium used.
The winning school's art department will receive a £10,000 prize, and an additional £2,000 will be awarded to the winning student.
The deadline for entries is 13 January, 2015.
'Journeys' by Matt Rooney. 2014 shortlist.
'Feeling: A Frog in the Sewer' by Victoria Ji-Soo Han. 2014 shortlist.
Berlin Art Film Festival
'Nan Goldin - I Remember Your Face' (2014) Sabine Lidl, languages: English, German, subtitles: English
The first ever edition of the Berlin Art Film Festival will reveal a new side to the always-bustling metropolis. Privately funded and organised by the people behind the 'Stil in Berlin' blog, the four-day festival will show more than 30 films (“from poetry to porn”), all of which are either in English or with English subtitles. What's more, a number of filmmakers and actors will also be present for the screenings and the two panel discussions.
The highlights include 'An Interview With an Artist', a short film about an American artist (played by film professor and curator Marc Siegel), who would much rather talk about underwear than anything substantial, and 'Ich Will Mich Nicht Künstlich Aufregen / Asta Upset', which tells the story of a young and fairly secure art curator in Berlin, still trying to figure it out.
'I Remember Your Face', the Sabine Lidl-directed documentary about controversial photographer Nan Goldin, will close the festival. The film will also see its German premiere.
Berlin Art Film Festival: 4 – 7 December, 2014
'An Interview With an Artist' (2011) Telémachos Alexiou, language: English, no subtitles
'Asta Upset' (2014) Max Linz, languages: German/ English, subtitles: English/German
La Perla Re-Opens Historic Boutique in Paris
La Perla has re-opened its historic Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris. Designed by renowned architect Roberto Baciocchi, the store's interior was inspired by the Castelvecchio Museum in Verona, Italy. Soft, dusty colours pervade the 230 square metre space. Rich gold detailing accentuates the boutique's luxurious atmosphere.
The La Perla pieces are entrapped in delicate glass cases or displayed on velvet-clad trays. On the first floor, customers are welcomed into the VIP zone, where 'Made-to-Measure' collections are available. The area also leads to the boutique's most beautiful spot – the winter garden – where an array of show stopping pieces are presented on pedestals.
To commemorate the re-opening of the store, a celebratory event took place on 27 November, 2014. The launch party was attended by French actress Mélanie Laurent, dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied, as well as Tony Thornburg and Richard Biedul, models from the La Perla men's catwalk.