'Sweat' by Palladium x Major Lazer
Production duo Major Lazer -best known for their rhythmic electro and dancehall beats- teamed up with heritage boot brand Palladium to debut an eye-catching music video for the new released track 'Sweat' from the album ‚Free the Universe‘ featuring Laidback Luke and Miss Dynamite. The Glow-in-the-Dark-Video creates an energetic and spacy ambience and fits perfectly into the concept of both, Palladium and Major Lazer. All filmed in a black light, the Los Angeles-based dance crew The Underground Street Chronicles is only visible through neon-coloured clothing outlines, accessories and body painting. Synchronized with the vibrant beat, fluorescent sweat-inspired paint splashes surround the dancers' sharp movements.
Directed by renowned Ryan Staake from the production company Pomp & Clout, the video was shot in L.A.'s prestigious Zynderia Studios. The Underground Street Chronicles wear boots from Palladium's FW 2013 collection, including the enzyme-washed Pallabrouse Baggy and four variations of the waterproof Pampa Sport Cuff WP2. Both silhouettes maintain traditional Palladium design details, including a rubber toe cap and a durable rubber outsole.
Sarah Lucas: 'SITUATION Absolute Beach Man Rubble'
The Whitechapel Art Gallery presents an exclusive retrospective of remarkable artist Sarah Lucas supported by French luxury fashion brand Louis Vuitton. Hold in Lucas' hometown London, the exhibition 'SITUATION Absolute Beach Man Rubble' brings together some of her most iconic works, including famous pieces from 1989 till present. Her exceptional sculptures, objects and installations have established the British artist as one of the most important art figures of her generation. Being part of the Young British Artists movement in the late 80ies and early 90ies, Lucas took part in several significant group exhibitions, such as Damien Hirst-led Freeze (1988) or Sensation (1997), an exhibition of the collection of contemporary art owned by Charles Saatchi. Born in 1962, she graduated from the BA Fine Art course at prestigious London College Goldsmiths in the age of twenty-five years and instantly had success in the international art scene, as her art-objects always have been epitome for absurd, grotesque and bawdy humour. Inspired by Marcel Duchamp, found objects and throw-away materials draw from past to present through Lucas‘ work. Many of her early works include clothes, furnitures, food, used as stand-ins for the body, or to create erotically charged scenarios. Lucas has the approach to make sexist stereotypes and role allocation between men and women visible, yet clearly subvert them within her provocative statements.
Two decades of works by Sarah Lucas are presented throughout the lower and upper floors of the Gallery including 'Bunny Gets Snookered‘, stuffed and stretched nylon tights, in form of a 'bunny girl' considered as one of Lucas' internationally well-known key pieces. Another eye-catcher is a multi-breasted sculpture and extraordinary bronze sculptures, in which two genders melt into one. Furthermore, portraits of Lucas at her base in Suffolk taken by artist renowned photographer Juergen Teller are exposed on the walls, next to monochrome portraits by artist Julian Simmons taken from their recent publication Tittipussidad.
The exhibition is on until the 15th of Dec- ember 2013 in the Whitechapel Art Gallery, London (Galleries 1, 8 & Victor Petitgas Gallery). Furthermore, various gallery talks, audio descriptions and performances on Sarah Lucas are happening within the exhibition.
G-SESSIONS Final - Vote Now
How to one up a year long anniversary celebration? By giving a group of young talents the chance to design their own G-SHOCK model in a contest. Renowned mentors from all G-SESSIONS destinations have selected one contestant to take under their wing and helped them create a watch design. The mentors are designer Patrick Mohr, singer and producer Ghostpoet, design-duo Tomas Overtoom and Liza Korfman, artist Kirikoo Des, action sport photographer Nikita Vilkin Yarutskiy, MTV presenter-turned DJ Johann Wald, Marcelo Burlon and County Of Milan designer Giorgio Di Salvo. A presentation entailing a song, a performance, a video clip or a piece of art supports each creation. From now on, the designs can be voted on online at www.g-sessions.de. Who will come out on top?
During the G-SESSIONS Finals on the 28th of November the winning design will be announced, and later produced and sold in a limited edition. Obviously, winning would rock. But so does voting, as all participants are in the mix to either win a limited edition of the winning design or a trip to Berlin to attend the G-SESSIONS Finals. In light of the award ceremony in Berlin, G-SHOCK will launch two new models from the Gold Series in rose gold. With analog digital displays in different gold hues and black, these sturdy models are treats for all G-SHOCK fans and a great pick-me-up in case you don‘t win a limited edition for voting.
NEIGHBORHOOD for Converse Sneaker
NEIGHBORHOOD, the exclusive lifestyle denim brand from Tokyo and Converse presented their first joint project, the first String Holiday 2013 collection, through adding a slight Japanese touch to the most two well-known Converse classics. When the Japanese clothing brand was founded in 1994 by Shinsuke Takizawa, NEIGHBORHOOD immediately succeeded with their motorcycle culture inspired designs, which also gets visible in this very unique collection. Combining classic Converse DNA with the Japanese brand's own vision, the two iconic staples are processed with high quality materials: the Jack Purcell Johnny Mid, made of deep petrol blue leather with tonal stitching and the All Star Chuck '70 Ox realized in a blue suede, both with white midsoles and toe-caps.
The First String's Premium sneaker collection is available in selected Converse retailers across the globe since the 1st of November 2013. For more information visit
Breaking the Ice by Yi Zhou
Italian label ICEBERG teams up with Chinese artist Yi Zhou for a very special and unique capsule collection including menswear, womenswear and acces- sories. The exquisite designs took it's inspiration from wild, scenic landscapes, hybrid animals and images of the sun, all captured on stylish T-Shirts, sweaters, shirts, hoodies and skirts. This collection symbolizes the perfect wardrobe for wanderlust and nature lovers.
A little documentary was directed by Yi Zhou to make this wonderful collection and it's spirit sensually perceivable to it's audience, later on seen at window dis- plays along ICEBERG'S prestigious shops. Yi Zhou is featured as a fictional cartoon character, which gets repeated, distorted and abstracted and has morphed herself into the strings of cotton sweaters and T-Shirts.
Breaking the Ice – ICEBERG by Yi Zhou will be available at ICEBERG stores worldwide starting December 2013.
Aitor Throup's 'New Object Research'
'New Object Research' by London-based artist and designer Aitor Throup is an exclusive ready-to-wear clothing and accessories line with an approach to create highly innovative and conceptual pieces dedicated to new concepts and products. To celebrate the global launch of this project, Aitor Throup set-up an installation of his outstanding objects at Dover Street Market in occasion of London's Art Fair Frieze. "New Object Research is about product design, not fashion design. The problem solving process allows itself to focus on singular objects, rather than looks or collections," explains Aitor Throup in his conceptual Design Manifesto.
His concerns about concepts and philosophy of working processes make his work even more deep and special. In assembling his former four different attempts entitled 'When Football Hooligans become Hindu Gods', 'On the Effects of Ethnic Stereotyping', 'Magnolia' and 'The Funeral of New Orleans', the young and talented designer captures the most important processes he went through during the past seven years after graduating from the Royal College of Art. Throup's main interest is studying the human body in a three-dimensional way and process the pre-drafts in his his remarkable designs. His items and garments always refer to a deep context of socio-cultural and environmental issues. “As for example relating to the terrorist atrocities on the London Underground on July 7, 2005, when a any brown-skinned man riding the Tube with a black rucksack became an object of intense suspicion. This link makes Aitor Throup's garments highly charged and adds a comment on the power of clothes to shape perceptions and preconceptions", explains fashion journalist Tim Blanks about Throup's work.
Key items of this highly aesthetical collection include caps, rucksacks with innovative fastenings, jackets mosty in a black colour palette. All trousers have built-in precision engineered articulated foot covers with Kevlar soles, which can allow the wearer to wear them over their feet as a replacement for conventional footwear. The catalogue of 'New Object Research' was captured in great video work featuring British guitarist and songwriter Sergio Pizzorno. 'New Object Research' is currently showcased in an exclusive installation at Dover Street Market in London and Tokyo, Atelier in New York, H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, I.T. in Hong Kong and Beijing, and Rail in Brescia, Italy.
Robert Mapplethorpe in Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac
Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac on the occasion of it's 30th anniversary showcases an exclusive exhibition of works by renowned American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe curated by Isabelle Huppert. The selection includes a noticeable extract of Robert Mapplethorpe's legendary black and white images adorning the Villa Kast in Salzburg. French actress Isabelle Huppert got free access to resources of the The Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation choosing a selection of unexplored, yet memorable photographs. Her own choice of mixing emblematic photos with snapshots, deep-strong portraits and still lifes capture gentleness and make this selection appear like a mysterious poem.
Robert Mapplethorpe was born in 1946 as the third of six children in a Catholic working-class family in Floral Park, Queens, New York City. He studied at the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, where he first shot photos with a Polaroid camera taking photos of his friend, love and muse Patti Smith and other important figures of the New York Underground scene. After a while he delved into homoerotic SM sensation motives that later on became much sought-after in the world of photography. Robert Mapplethorpe died in on the consequences of his HIV infection in 1989.
The exhibition is on until 26 October 2013 at the Villa Kast, Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, in Salzburg, Austria.
Onitsuka Tiger's ‘My Town My Tracks'
Sports lifestyle brand Onitsuka Tiger takes on Tokyo's diverse backstreets for Fall/Winter 2013. In ‘My Town My Tracks' three natives explore their urban lifestyles and neighborhoods. Through the power of images and film the juxtaposition of this modest and outgoing, quirky and elegant culture, which is the birthplace of Onitsuka Tiger, is related. British photographer Laurence Ellis snapped Asami, a barista and actress in the hip Shimokitazawa district, artist Que, while wandering around counterculture hub Kichijoji, and Chris - the third local - cycling around Nakameguro, a quiet residential area.
The trio showcases models from the upcoming, running-inspired street collection through 1,000 candid Instagram photos, which can be seen on Onitsuka Tiger’s official Instagram profile, @onitsukatigerhq. Throughout this personal city tour, the ULT-RACER and HARANDIA take center stage. Both shoes are inspired by the brand’s running heritage. The HARANDIA features performance technology and will go down in Onitsuka Tiger’s history as its first shoe to feature GEL technology, for extra cushioning and comfort, all the while. As a special gimmick, it’s the brand’s first shoe to have Onitsuka Tiger written on the heel tab in Japanese.
The other shoe featured - the ULT-RACER - is a modern interpretation of the ULTIMATE 81, which was one of the brand’s most famous running shoes in the 80s. Sleek nylon, a chunky sole and herringbone rubber pattern make this a great allrounder for everyday explorations. Both models come in seven combinations as well as three specifically female fits.
WENDE releases LP
Dutch singer WENDE released an exclusive LP from her album ‘Last Resistance‘ featuring four additional remixes by renowned musicians such as Nackt, Michael Ilbert and Tilman Hopf. Recording the LP in Berlin, her very deep and personal work got captured in a this very special edition. Just on time with the release, WENDE started her club tour entitled ‘The Berlin Sessions‘ in the Netherlands and will proceed in Germany in 2014.
‘Last Resistance‘ brings up beautiful deep sounds and obscure samples accompanied by stunning vocals and trance sounds. WENDE‘s music has been visually translated in collaboration with Mulholland International. ‘Last Resistance‘ is released with a limited edition of a booklet featuring Miron Zownir’s photographs of WENDE in an old sanatorium of the outskirts of Berlin.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 Miu Miu adorned the runway with exclusive garments hitting the spirit of the swinging sixties. Miuccia Prada sent out retro looking coats with big buttons, fringe-beaded dresses in a range of vivid and pastel colours. Wool tights were combined with twin set tops and patent leather skirts in pastel colours.Cuts and shapes were slightly remininding of schoolgirl uniforms.Wild patterns and prints of ornaments showing birds, cats and flowers highlighted fluffy coats. Paying attention to those eye-catching details, the collection was playful, girlish yet sophisticated and feminine, what in other words defines Miu Miu as an extravagant brand.
Wunderkind at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Spring/ Summer 2014 collection was a prelude to celebrate individualism and free thinking as if there is nothing left to loose. Inspired by the wild flair of the 70ies, stunning floral dresses with floating silhouettes, high-waisted hotpants and fringed leather jackets underlined the main theme and created an effortless and liberated spirit, that shouldn‘t be missing at an un- forgettable performance. Chiffon garments in acid colours and vibrant prints, next to sporty leggings made of transluscent fabrics and elements of baseball tricots completed this energetic and charismatic ambience and added a touch of youthness.
22/4_femmes at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Stephanie Hahn, the designer of 22/4_femmes, has her roots in pattern making, which makes her a gem of know how in the middle of superficial big ideas. The way she cuts a shoulder on her new T-shirt is only one example of the way Hahn structures and controls a fabric. For Spring/Summer 2014, the designer looked at Jazz Age tennis player Suzanne Lenglen, resulting in a minimal, sportive collection without neglecting the feminine. Relaxed silhouettes with big striped trousers and shirts were vamped up with brazeers in the same fabric. As Lenglen, also known as „the Divine“, never wore an underskirt while playing, an exercise in transparency gave the collection depth and light.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For the second day of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014, Prada sent out a collection that reflected femininity and female empowerment at it’s best. Eye-catching prints, which reminded of mural paintings and Richard Lindner dominated this artistic line. Most of the prints showed graphical images of women, which underlined what this collection is all about. Knife-pleat skirts, tube socks, shift dresses and coats with round buttons were showcased in the colour palette of mustard, lilac, turquoise and tangerine. Accompanied by hot vibes of Britney Spears new song "Work bitch!“ this show was a must-see at MFW Spring/Summer 2014.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2014 show was inspired by the spirit of nature and flaunted with modern qualities. Rippling water reflections and shadows on plants glazed on exclusive garments, in juxtaposition to floral patterns and imaginative, abstract watercolour illustrations. Shadows of tropical flowers in a colour palette of pale blues, greens, grays and dawn pinks completed the whole appearance.
Casual outfits included a range of double-pleat and widly-cutted pants and leggings that covered the skin like a tattoo. Flowing jackets in glossy and monochrome looks and elementary shapes, next to sleeveless silk dresses conjured a symbolic modernity accessorized with colour-matching clutches and handbags.
Art show at Berlin’s former spy station Teufelsberg
Berlin’s most famous abandoned spy station “Teufelsberg” was stage for various art installations from 6 -8 September 2013. Dutch Berlin- based artist Dirk Krechting showcased a bathtub filled with bright red water and a small satellite dish perched above, which reminds of a dramatic bloodbath. With his piece he wanted to make a statement regarding the uselessness of spying and warfare. The art show with more than 70 artists involved, was part of a national heritage day on 8 September entitled “Beyond Good and Beautiful: Inconvenient Monuments.” Works included everything from video, installations to sculptures. Teufelsberg is one of the most important monuments in Berlin, that has achieved cult status during the past years throughout the German capital.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi showcased a collection dominated by gaudy, graphic and geometric patchwork prints and floral patterns. Being well known for hand crafted effects and precise cuts, the designer duo draped feminine and sporty dresses, skirts and parkas with vibrant silhouettes.
A pink glaze on the runway harmonized with pastel pink and blue colour palette, as well as strong neon pinks and yellows. Remaining true to the Rave spirit Preen is known for, second phase of the show brought up numerous futuristic looking pieces made of transparent high- tech fabrics, semi- sheer plastic raincoat textures and metallic foil.
Esprit Dior Exhibition in Shanghai
The House of Dior presents the ‘Esprit Dior’ exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art - Shanghai, which will honour designer Christian Dior. Presenting his very first collection on 12 February 1947, Christian Dior today has become a breakthrough in fashion history, as well as in creating unique perfume frequencies. Known for his extraordinary cuts and exclusive materials, Dior was always bringing up a breath of acuteness and brilliance. Although Christian Dior is no longer alive, his name and his company are still the epitome of luxury and elegance.
Image: Artwork by Liu Jianhua
‘Espirit Dior’ is on from 13 September to 10 November 2013.
Diane von Fürstenberg, Y-3, DKNY at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Fourth day of NYFW brought up the soft elegance of femininity as well as the awareness of todays’ “digital noise”. Opening the Y-3 show with flashy lights and various musicians playing on drums and containers, Yohji Yamamoto was teamed up with art director Peter Saville, who stands out for his unique graphics. The combination of blackness and hyper colours generated a postmodern streetwear chic. Bright coloured gradients and watercolour blurring of a multitude of neons, sporty hoodies with slogans, pigtails connected to feathers formed as both a critique and celebration of the contemporary internet culture.
Y-3 Spring/ Summer 2014
Diane von Fürstenberg’s Spring/ Summer 2014 reminded of a breezy summer safari with zebra striped dresses, tunics and maxi dresses made of silk.
Diane von Fürstenberg Spring/ Summer 2014
Right on time to DKNY’s 25th anniversary, Dona Karen sent out her fresh collection with overalls, baseball caps, bodysuits, blazers, sneakers, neoprene dresses and anoraks floating over the runway. Single pieces of baggy pants bringing back the 90’s and other pieces dedicating to a strong urban energy. The show got closed by Rita Ora -current campaign girl of DKNY- dancing to a song of the Beastie Boys.
DKNY Spring/ Summer 2014
Warsteiner Art Collection
Ever since Andy Warhol was commissioned to paint the Brewery’s now iconic Tulip glass in 1984, Warsteiner has nurtured its deep-rooted links with the art world, igniting imagination through its countless collaborations. Now subjecting itself to yet more creativity, the Warsteiner bottles will serve as the blank canvas to the hands of six urban artists; Stefan Strumbel, Aaron De La Cruz, Brooke Reidt, Nychos, INSA and French graffiti crew 123Klan will all hit the bottle in the name of the Warsteiner Art Collection, launching this month in a showroom at the former department store in Berlin Jandof. Works by the six artists will be shown alongside the exclusive editions, open to the public between August 25th-27th. Though the exhibition is not the only opportunity to be part of the project – ‘The Bottle 7’ is waiting to be hijacked by frustrated artists and aspiring designers worldwide via the Facebook app, through which creatives can craft and submit designs, in the hope that it will grace the covetable 7th Bottle, ingrained into a history that includes Warhol and other such greats.
The Limited Edition Warsteiner Art Collection will be available regionally from September.
Replay Design for Barça
‘Més que un club’: the slogan for the FC Barcelona says it all. Renowned for their flair in play, Barça are to team up with Italian company Fashion Box – the forbearer of Replay and its sister brands – to initiate a four year partnership as sponsor of clothing and footwear for the club’s sportsmen and women. Under the project, Replay will design an official clothing line, alongside a smart-casual line for the first team. Most celebrated for their innovative use of denim and characteristic indigo textile, the label will reinterpret the orthodox jeans philosophy in the fine lines of tailoring, resulting in a collection of unique and inimitable fashion pieces. More than a club? There’s no question.
Ralph Lauren to Restore École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts
The École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris has acquired worldwide recognition as an institution to nurse such masters of design as Valentino Garavani and Hubert de Givenchy. Artists, too, have flourished under its coaching, with Degas, Marisse and Monet all walking through its magnificent doors. It's pertinent, then, that one of the greatest designers of our time has pledged to honor its two-year restoration by funding several millions of dollars towards the project.
The campus buildings date back to the 17th century, and house a 90-foot mural by French painter, Paul Delaroche.The historic semicircular lecture theatre that forms the heart of the school will be renovated with stadium-like seating and top-of-the-range audio-visual equiptment. It's cobblestone courtyard, meanwhile, will undergo significant work as part of the plans, which, once completed, will host a gala dinner and Fall/Winter catwalk show by Lauren on October 8th, making his first European show.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century
He dressed the most beautiful women of the '80s, from Madonna to Grace Jones. Cited for his figure-fitting contours, as a designer, Azzedine Alaïa embraced the seductive shape of the female form, exuding sexuality to define an era. Now in his 3rd decade as an esteemed fixture of the fashion industry, Azzedine Alaïa continues to impart that sensual inflection that undersigns his work within his designs today, attracting such diverse clientele as Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama.
The exhibition, Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century, pulls focus on the important catalogue of work the designer has produced in the new millenium, showcasing his most significant and glamorous pieces from the last ten years. Curated by friend of 15 years Mark Wilson, the exhibition organises Alaïa's work by the his signature materials of the last decade; creations fall into fur, leather, velvet, cotton, chiffon, knitwear and animal skin rooms, illustrating the adroit hand of a mastered couturier, and, above all, that amorous appeal.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century runs until September 8th at the NRW-Forum, Düsseldorf.
Altered by Betty Tompkins
When Betty Tompkins traced the initial concept of her work in the early 1970s, it was impossible to envisage the significance they would harbour under the untested surroundings of the years to come. Whether her impertinently painted sexual portrayals would fall redundant divorced from the intensity of feminism's first wave could well have proved to prosper. Forty years later and with the advent of asserted sexuality in the age of the internet, the ideas and execution of Tompkins' photo-realist artworks have arguably become more relevant than ever.
Specially curated for The Obscure Ledger, Tompkins presents an 11-piece series of collages and altered photographs, dating from the '70s heyday of the feminist art movement to the current day. Collages snatch an emancipated sensuality from the decade in which they were created, shown alongside the notorious photo, Ellensburg WA. More recent work also finds itself in place; a censored grid photo from 2008 sits side by side with four brand new pieces, barefaced as ever with their explicit intonation and deadpan delivery.
Nieuw Jurk Spring/Summer 2014
Ever reliable to stir controversy, Dutch label Nieuw Jurk shouted from the soapbox of their Amsterdam Fashion Week show with a collection founded on debauchery and scandal. $€XXX speaks mirthifully of the impact of the porn industry and its amplification with the uncontainable presence of the internet.
Chunky rubber boots and PVC bodysuits cling tight to skin, buckled and zipped in fetishwear fashion. Motifs were both lucid and lurid, as X-rated imagery jibed with comic rave-print wit. Sex-shop neons emblazoned photographic prints with their depressingly optimistic lambent glow, tiling catsuits and men's co-ords in wearably clubby pastiche; outsized patent tees take on inflatable doll appliqué with surprisingly permissive flare, while the smile of acid-house undergoes crass adulteration.
Accessories were a little more conceptual, though their statement was no less explicit; faux fur patches served playfully as knee and breast patches, while harness bras and candy string bikinis drolly stands up for any witticism left unsaid.
International Talent Support Reveals 2013 Winners
The International Talent Support annual contest provides a spectacle of a creative platform each year, showcasing the most promising talent in fashion design from all around the globe. Convieved and developed under the EVE agency, ITS pools an authoritative judging panel from the industry's most discerning experts, including Art Director for Diesel, Nicola Formichetti.
Han Chul Lee
Finalists submitted 30 projects – 10 for each competition area – to be considered over the two day event, held for the twelfth time in the Italian seaport of Trieste. Past editions have seen a then burgeoning Astrid Andersen, Mark Fast and Michael Van Der Ham compete for the sought-after accolades, which are commended with cash grants and internships at the helm of the world's most prominent brands.
The Royal College of Art nurtured several of this year's winners; Han Chul Lee from took the crown for Fashion Collection of the Year and the Vogue Talents Award with his crocodile skins reforming classic silhouettes, while the prestigious Diesel Award went to Xiao Li for her playfully inflated pastel knits and cartoon cuts, earning her a six-month placement with the brand and a prize of €25.000. Tomohiro Sato put on an curious show, claiming the Modateca Award for his boundlessly imaginative embellishments, and Nelly Hoffman's photo-realist printed streetwear won the support of the YOOX.COM Award, with the oppurtunity to design an exclusive garment for the leading virtual store. True to its word, ITS have given us more than just one to watch this year with this year's collection of gifted winners.
Iceberg Celebrate 400th Anniversary of Amsterdam's Canals
This year the city of Amsterdam celebrates the 400th anniversary of its characteristic Canal Ring. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the canals will play host to jubilant commemoration throughout 2013. One such reveller is the sportswear label Iceberg, whose Ice Iceberg store finds home on the city's legendary shopping street, PC Hoofstraat.
Iceberg climbled aboard the aptly named Juliana flat bottom boat, – a fitting tribute to Gilmar founder, Giuliana Marchini Gerani – before sailing down the Herengracht Canal to the Munttoren Tower, soaking up the bounty of sights on offer from the charming aspect of the water.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring/Summer 2014
It's not often that a designer can pull off 'sailor' without pieces looking caricatures of their influences. Though that's exactly what Boris Bidjan Saberi has accomplished with his latest Spring/Summer collection. Perhaps that's because his eye has always been close to the source; penned from his seaside workshop, maritime garments find new function in the modern man's wardrobe, pooling in the weather-beaten folds of slouched silhouettes.
Ropey knits in murky off-whites bear the industrial scuffs of hard labour, underwritten by the utilitarian buckled fastenings of cropped life jackets. Waxed cotton sweaters are somehow made unspeakably modern, layering light jerseys and oversized pants etched in grainy graphic prints.
Boat sails are reworked to breathe authenticity into hooded cloaks, their original seams still visible so as not to mask character. Yellow waders and fishermen jackets are tailored to question the possibilities of function, narrated by removable sleeved jackets, adjustable length pants and an integrated backpack vest.
Stripes, too, are redefined, their identity chanellenged as they struggle to keep in line on asymmetric cuts. In a palette of worn whites and greying navy, marine wear, here, evades the obvious by all possible costs.
Salon Show Spring/Summer 2014 Green Showroom
Sustainability is growing ever more important in fashion and the green showroom during Berlin Fashion Week provides a platform for sustainable labels. At the salon show 20 brands showcased 54 looks from avant-garde designs to delicate silk dresses and fine blouses as well as all the way to accessories. Among the labels were renowned designers such as Lanius or Elsien Gringhuis and Swiss label Royal Blush by Jana Keller / Johanna Riplinger, who employ plant-based treatments for the leather and organic salmon they use -all made locally. Their collection is simple, reduced and puristic. For a more rock 'n' roll vibe, designer Aleks Kurkowski combines straight forward, avant-garde designs with relaxed urbanity and the essential thought of sustainability. Once again, the show proofed that fashion and awareness can create something beautiful.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Michalsky Spring/Summer 2014
Michalsky's show, the StyleNite at the end of MBFWB, basks in the flashy entertainment of fashion. The venue is just a little larger, the runway a little wider and the guest list a little more notorious. Ahead of his show and in between his mens and womenswear collection, the show's vibe is held at party-level with musical acts such as NONONO and MS MR. Both super fun and energetic, amping the audience for what is to come. When it comes to the collections themselves, Michalsky has internalized one thing: never change a running system. The mere number of looks for each collection, both titled 'Sweet Freedom', is astounding and every single one is decidedly Michalsky-esque. Nothing too out there, but a showcasing of some great pieces interlaced with the major trends for spring/summer 2014, which had become evident throughout the week. With the Michalsky man it is never quite clear if he's a flamboyant cool kid, dressed in slim, sharp reddish orange or blue suits and understated khaki pieces teamed with small-scale geometrical prints or a slightly smug pretty boy, in silver metallic parkas and matching shoe – belt combos. The menswear collection certainly holds a piece for every level of bravado. For his womenswear presentation the designer put forward solid, wearable looks. His color palette here differed and he relied on shades from light goldenrod and tangerine to business-like gray and white, elegant black and a pretty cloud print. While Michalsky stuck to easily interchangeable and levelheaded designs, the overall feel was decidedly younger from his previous showcases with long summer coats over shorts or mini skirts and flowing chiffon skirts tossed together with simple shirts and biker jackets. He also tried his hand in more daring dinner jackets – short and slim with low necklines and contrasting lapels. Many of the pieces exuded that special summer feeling, fresh and cavalier.
Die Antwoord - 'Cookie Thumper'
Where do you go from a promotional video that sparked worldwide controversy? Die Antwoord certainly knew the way when they directed the video for their new single, Cookie Thumper.
The track is preceded by a two minute dialogue, in which vocalist Yolandi Vi$$er plays an orphan, picking up marijuana from gangster crush, Anies, who is fresh out of prison. Inviting the first of many provocative references is only topped by what ensues: pot-smoking and oversexed dancing shakes through the orphanage to a cranked-up-tempo. Here, indecency and perversion are more just a mere suggestion, with paedophillic undertones ablast. Decency aside, Die Antwoord delivered what Die Antwoord does best – and that's unrestrained visual bedlam to a tune that's antagonistically catchy – the shrill hook of its chorus alone will make ears ring forever after.
SOLAR /ANECHOIC by Alastair Philip Wiper
Artists, by tradition, have long shaped our perception of beauty. Against a catalogue of classical masterpieces, the few who appreciate form following function within their work leap out from the crowd. One such creative is Alastair Philip Wiper – a photographer whose images capture the accidental artistry of an industrial world. Habitually valued for their technological advancement, the often remarkable architecture of these facilities is seldom acknowledged. Wiper's exhibition SOLAR / ANECHOIC will challenge just this. With a collection of photographs to glorify the facilities that were only ever designed to push the limits of science, he attributes to them the sense of marvel they deserve.
Alastair Philip Wiper exhibits as part of the Copenhagen Photo Festival from June 6th – 16th at Gallery Etage Projects, with photos also on display at The Censured Exhibition, Carlsberg.
'RAPE' by Joseph Lally
Avant garde filmmaker Joseph Lally and London-based SHOW Studio are delight to present an exclusive cinematic venture entitled 'RAPE' starring charming Belgian model and actress Hannelore Knuts. The unnerving yet absorbing film through different filmic and audio techniques becomes distorted and manipulated leading to a visual outlook of a rape. It tells the story of a woman followed by a man in a dark and surrealistic environment.
Pierre Huyghe's Retrospective
The prestigious Centre Pompidou is de- voting an exclusive retrospective exhibition to important artist Pierre Huyghe. Being a major figure in the international con- temporary art scene for over 20 years now, Huyghe is mostly known for constructing -often surrealistic- situations, that take place in the observer's own reality. 'I'm interested in the vital aspect of things, in the way an idea, an artefact or a language can flow into contingent, biological, mineral and physical reality', says the french visual artist, who was born in 1962 in Paris. In the 90ies Pierre Huyghe primarily used to be noticed as a video artist, who thematically dealed with the deconstruction of cinema history. In films such as 'DUBBING' (1996) he deals with the different levels of reality movies that are visible, for example, the synchronization or changing the social context.
In the recent few years his creative period transformed into a new creative direction of experimental art - performance and installation projects, embodying the spirit of ingenuity for his enviroments. In 2002, he has been named the recipient of the HUGO BOSS PRIZE 2002, an international highly-regarded award. Since than his work has been presented in numerous outstanding solo exhibitions and represented in notable group exhibitions.
Besides ten installations that never been exposed before in public, Emma Lavigne -curator of the exhibition- has gathered around 50 works of Huyghe, incluiding 'L'EXPÉDITION SCINTILLANTE, A MUSICAL' (2002), 'STREAMSIDE DAY' (2003), various known settings of previous exhibitions, that she is showcasing at the Centre Pompidou. A greyhound dog with a pink leg named 'Human', that was part of the project 'Untitled', at the Documenta 13 in Kassel, next to a sculpture of a lying woman with a beehive on her head. Furthermore, the surrealistic aquarium of Zoodram 4, in which rocks are floating on the surface of the water and a crab has found his home in the copy of a Constantin Brâncusi sculpture.
As Pierre Huyghe is a great master in staging atmospheres and moods, where art and nature collide into each other, the on-going retrospective at the French métropole Paris, provides a comprehensive panorama of his practice and research which spread over the past two decades. The show aims to emphasize the live and organic dimension of the artist's propositions. The exhibition space is conceived as a world in itself, a small cosmos, in which the visitor delves into.
The exhibition is on until the 6th of January 2014 at the Centre Pompidou in Paris.
#DIESELTRIBUTE by Nicola Formichetti
Nicola Formichetti launched his first exclusive capsule collection for the Italian denim brand Diesel under the promising title 'RE-EXAMINE THE PAST, RE-IMAGINE THE FUTURE'. To underline the fearless Diesel spirit and pay tribute to the DNA of the brand, Nicola 'examined' various legacy pieces in the headquarter factory of Breganze and customized found materials from the 35 -year archive in a new design. Each and every item in the entire collection is handmade and pushing the fashion quotient further than ever before. To keep iconography alive, the newly-appointed Artistic Director used found patches, displaying e.g. moto club images such as the eagle, all cut and laid by hand. Furthermore, red, white and green buttons praise the brands Italian heritage. The men's and women's ready-to-wear includes 45 pieces and consits of two segments, a denim capsule and a leather capsule, including jackets, shirts, vests, jeans and accessories.
Under his vision of the future, Nicola Formichetti was remaining true to the unique ways of distributing Diesel and therefore teamed up with celebrated photographer Nick Knight and his creative team, the SHOW STUDIO, to shoot an revolutionary campaign. The entirely new visual concept was shot with an iPhone, and retouched by filters of photo and video apps such as Instagram, Glitchè, PickPlayPost and Megaphoto. This unique look speakes the true vocabulary of a visionary take into social media.
The denim #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule is ready to shop online and in selected Diesel stores only, the leather #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule will follow in February 2014. Explore the outstanding online campaign at
'Century Spire' by Giorgio Armani and Daniel Libeskind
Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani announced an exclusive collaboration between renowned visionary architect Daniel Libeskind and the leading Philippine real estate developer Century Properties for the latest project Century Spire. The residential luxury building will be located in the heart of Makati, the prestigious economy and financial center of the Philippines. Adding another impressive highlight to the glorious skyline of Makati, the superlative architecture was designed by Daniel Libeskind, who took his inspiration from urban aspects and the cultural heritage of the Island. Libeskind is globally well-known for his outstanding architecture including the Jewish Museum in Berlin and was awarded for rebuilding New York's Ground Zero and many other international, iconic edifices.
Including high-end office spaces and luxury residential units, next to an amenity section, the tower will branch out in three interlocking segments on top and crystallize into a number of spectacular spaces. This breathtaking scope of architecture will reflect the meaning of cultural and geographical research, and result in a truly remarkable place to live, full of elegance and wonder, symbolizing the growth of the economical future of the Philippines. The exclusive 60-storey tower will be furnished by Giorgio Armani's Interior Design Studio Armani/Casa in highly comfortable and sophisticated designs. Since 2003, the Armani/Casa Interior Design Studio is a world leader in the luxury furnishings sector representing elegance and style and is therefore the equivalent partner for Libeskind's architectural masterpieces.
The Century Spire is set for completion in 2018.
REPLAY's Laserblast Club Capsule Collection
On Wednesday, 23rd of October 2013 Italian denim and casual wear brand REPLAY celebrated the launch of it's Laserblast Club capsule collection at the ‘Terrassensaal' in Munich in collaboration with VICE. Stunning British singer Charli XCX -who is the protagonist and new face of this collection and just released her first album ‘True Romance' - highlighted this very special event with a vivid live performance, accompanied by flashy computer graphics and laser beamer video projections.
The new REPLAY AW2013-14 line combines club culture with denim, but also points out technological progresses, en- viromental responsibility and eco-oriented thinking. Through using the Laserblast technology to get the typical denim aethetics, REPLAY doesn't need to use big amounts of water, energy and stones or sand to wash the jeans, as the wash is literally put onto the jeans by a laser. Watch the video teaser of Charli XCX for the REPLAY Laserblast Club Capsule Collection on
Azzedine Alaïa and Women
By Ria de Borja
Alaïa, an exhibit chronicling the designer’s career and influence in fashion, recently opened at Palais Galliera, musée de la mode de la ville de Paris. The exhibit goes through the designer’s history, designs, techniques, inspirations - and his penchant for women, including famous actresses. Azzedine Alaïa was born in Tunisia and attended the country’s École des Beaux-arts. “I used to spend my nights oversewing dresses for a local dressmaker in order to pay for my school equipment. I learned the different stitches by doing my sister Hafida’s sewing exercises because she wasn’t very keen on manual skills,” says Alaïa in the exhibition catalogue. Soon after, the designer finished his studies and was encouraged to move to Paris by a family friend.
“The designers who have made a lasting impression on the history of fashion are those who have concentrated on celebrating and liberating the body. Of all contemporary creators, it is Alaïa who has best embodied this spirit since the 1980s, using precise seams and darts to produce a silhouette that has become his hallmark,” says Olivier de Saillard, director of the Galliera museum and the exhibit’s curator. “He drew inspiration from the spirited style and arrogance of personalities like Arletty and Louise de Vilmorin.”
Alaïa met the French actress Arletty in Paris in 1960. “She’s the one who gave me the idea of making skin-tight dresses. She was used to adjusting the volume of her skirt with a pin. ‘It falls too well, she used to say. It has to be skewed somewhere.’” Towards 1971, he was inspired by Greta Garbo: “She came with a friend, Cécile de Rothschild, and wanted me to make a very full- bodied coat. I remember some fitting sessions and measuring sessions. The coat was never big enough for her taste.
At a time when everything was tight- fitting, the 1970s, I had to make an immense, navy-blue coat for her, with turned- up sleeves. In the 1980s and 1990s, I often presented huge coats with generous shoulders, a definite nod to Garbo, to her inimitable and avant-gardist style.” When he met Louise de Vilmorin, he was further schooled in fashion: “Meeting her I realized that Parisian chic was all about the little details. One evening when Louise de Vilmorin was supposed to go to a dinner, she asked me to help her put the finishing touches to her outfit.
She remembered that she had seen a concierge wearing a cardigan from a department store like Prisunic so we bought it. We replaced the buttons with something more elaborate in metal and put a long ordinary chain around her neck that she rolled up and plunged into a pocket. It was a demonstration in just a few seconds of her inimitable sense of style, and she got a lot of envious looks that evening.” Over the course of his career, the designer has created collections that include leather or waxed fabrics perforated with eyelets, skirts laced at the back, metal zippers running from the neckline to the hemline, tight and structured leather suits, seamed stretch jersey dresses, leather tube dress with asymmetrical folds revealing the naked skin, stretch jersey hood dresses and coats with hood collars and reversible boleros with strips of mink. “Alaïa fashioned a new body, like a sculptor working with muslin and leather. Inventing new shapes out of simple interplay between complex stitchings, Alaïa became the creator of a timeless body of work. His influence on today’s fashion is fundamental,” says Saillard.
In 1986, Alaïa presented Naomi Campbell in her first fashion show (she was 16). “Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa, Veronica Webb, Stephanie Seymour, Marie-Sophie Wilson, I am grateful to them all for accompanying me through all the research and the long posing, fitting and tweaking sessions. If I don’t have models before my eyes I have no ideas. I need to see their bodies near me,” says the designer. He acknowledges the profound influence women have had on him: “I have never followed fashion. Women have always dictated my behaviour. I make clothes, women make fashion.”
Ulay at Frieze London
London-based gallery MOT International presents grand artist Ulay at Frieze London in an exclusive solo exhibition entitled 'Auto self-portraits/ 1972-2012' featuring images from the 70ies until present. Ulay did many of his performances together with renowned Yugoslavian artist Marina Abramovic from 1976–1988. The duo's performances were exploring the relation of the ego and artistic identity, among being in a relationship dominated by mysticism, energy and attraction.Their collaborative work was essential and influential to both, as a couple and individuals. After a long decade of unique work, the couple broke up during walking the wall of China towards each other and meeting in the middle, when distance anticipated the end. In 2010 Ulay and Marina reanimated their special connection during Marina's performance 'The Artists is Present' at the Museum of Modern Arts New York.
The exhibition Ulay /Auto self-portraits/ 1972-2012 at Frieze will showcase photographs, next to a unique book and intimate images from his important early Renais Sense series. It will capture body art, performance combined with the experimental use of photography. Frieze London is an annual event, that takes place in Regents Park, London, exhibiting more than 170 of the world’s top contemporary art galleries. The Art Fair captures a full programme of talks, artists’ commissions and film projects.
The exhibition will be on from 16 October until 20 October 2013 at Frieze London in Regent‘s Park, Booth E21 represented by MOT International London.
Bottega Veneta opened first Maison in Milan
For the opening of the first Maison of Bottega Vaneta in Milan, creative director Tomas Maier hosted a cocktail night. The new exclusive store is set in the heart of the fashion capital, in the prestigious Via Sant’Andrea.The unique concept captures the architectural designs of Maier and makes the customer feel comfortable and relaxed while shopping luxury itmes. Showcasing women’s and men’s ready-to-wear including handbags, small leather goods, luggage, eyewear, shoes, watches, fragrance and jewelry, as well as furnitures, the Maison features a variety of chic products.
'The Lost Boys' by Joost Vandebrug
Destitution runs far deeper than the streets in Bucharest. In a state seemingly void of government structures and social care, the dispossessed youth of Romania find themselves caught off course under its negligent eye, seeking refuge in the turbulent veins of the city: the tunnels. Their inhabitants are The Lost Boys – a third-generation product of the homelessness born of the fall of communism. Costel, Nico, Stefan and Liviu are four of an approximate thousand child vagrants burrowing in the passageways of the capital, together with their many dogs, self-medication and unreserved allegiance to one another.
It was in early 2011 that photographer and filmmaker, Joost Vandebrug, first began to document the lives of the friends amidst what appears to be an entirely alien social landscape. What started with a few fleeting snapshots, a visceral language was nurtured between artist and subject; Vandebrug, showing his first few photographs to Costel, was welcomed deeper and deeper to the nucleus of the group, afforded an unprecedented viewpoint to a gang of parentless children who, as one might expect, find ways of escapism in hardship’s shadow. While orphanages, drug abuse, confrontation with addicts and the law are not alien encounters to The Lost Boys, what shines through most tenderly is their wholehearted sense of camaraderie.
But there is a darker reason why Vandebrug wants to share this story: upon his last visit, Nico was visibly dangerously ill, appearing to have lost half his body weight since the last time they had met. Vandebrug took him to the hospital. Nico – only fifteen – was diagnosed with AIDS. Not only that, but with a CD4 count of 2 cells/mm3 – exceptionally low, when a count fewer than 200 cells/mm3 defines the condition. Over the two and a half years that Vandebrug has been documenting The Lost Boys, he has accumulated thousands of images and hours of film footage, valuable to the portrayal of this touching story. With the partnership of DUST Magazine, the next step of the project is publication. Via the initiative Kickstarter, supporters of the project are able to back its funding, urging the printing of the book, entitled ‘Cinci Lei’, well within reach. Backers generously fund the venture with pledged contributions large or small, all
serving to scale a £10,000 goal by October 25th, covering production costs and thereafter revenue from sales as well as any excess from the total raised will flow straight to The Lost Boys.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 the traditional French House Saint Laurent transformed the runway into a spectaculous culisse with moving light rods in triangle shapes accompanied by synthy riffs of Liar‘s ‘Mr. your on fire Mr.‘, which created a strong ambience. Very chic feminine, yet masculine looks mainly consisted of tight leather mini skirts, chic strapless night dresses and transparent chiffon blouses combined with casty blazers. Hedi Slimane got inspired by music icons and youth culture of the 80ies which creates a nonreversible and unique spirit.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The House of Dior for Spring/Summer 2014 conquered the runway with a strong, feminine and very exoctic appearance. This collection was drawing a line of successful new interpretations and a variety of ideas. Raf Simons‘s creations were built on exclusive fabrics, such as bright silks and jacquards and stunning floral prints related to the impressive runway location, which felt like a surrealistic tropical rainforest setting.
The iconic traditional Dior Bar Jacket appeared next to translucent pleat skirts in neon coulors combined with monochromic metallic garments and very powerful multi-coloured dresses. Wrapped tops emphasized the beauty of a woman‘s waistline, relating to the sensual spirit Dior is loved for.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The collection of iconic fashion designer Donatella Versace has been a divine highlight at this Spring/Summer 2014. Bringing up the attitude of rock energy and effortless luxury, it is all going in the direction of creating a fresh streetwear look for the day and a strong appearance at night. The coming season is going to be dominated by leather and denim. Low waisted circle skirts combined with bra‘s made of gauzy fabrics and again and again heavy silver chains and rivets are the basic substance of this collection. Followed by a range of pieces covered with floral patterns in the shades of lilac, as well as exclusive nightwear dresses made of shining fabrics, this collection is clearly a prelude to a powerful 21st century in the signature of Versace. The show got closed with the legendary summer hit „Versace“ by Mikos.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Jil Sander‘s performance on fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was straightforward, linear and dominated by precise cuts. After the german fashion designer has left the brand twice and now is back, this Spring/Summer 2014 feels liberated and relaxed, perhaps because Sander now has finally arrived. According to be the “Queen of less“, the show demonstrated, that less sometimes is more. Being loyal towards her standards and principles, this collection was “Joyful Serenity“ and minimalism par excellence. Made of a combination of simple shapes and unique materials, Sander has showcased stunning garments, highlighted by her pure style elements, she is being adored for. Belly tops and midi skirts gave a shimmer of youthness, slightly wide capri pants and buttonless blazers added some elegant key notes, all in a rather restrained colour palatte.
Mulberry Store Opening in Berlin
The traditional British label Mulberry opened it‘s first own shop on Berlin‘s prestigious Kurfürstendamm on the19 September 2013. The store space was designed with great attention to detail and natural, light materials paying tribute to the labels origin in the British country side. In addition to Mulberry‘s famous handbags and purses, there are accessories, women‘s fashion and shoes to find at the store. For it's opening Chief Executive Bruno Guillon hosted a cocktail event at the new location to officially launch the store and celebrate Mulberry‘s fall/ winter 2013 collection.
KTZ at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Marjan Pejoski & Koji Maruyama’s Spring/ Summer 2014 was a highlight on third day of London Fashion Week. Dominated by black and white moroccan tile textures, the collection had unique pieces made of high- tech fabrics and varnished leather accessoried by oversized, opulent jewellery and metallic embossing. Hitting the zeitgeist with stunning creations such as hijab-looking headpieces, hamsa hands and enveloping garments, the designer duo transformed the runway into a futuristic sci-fi trip to the oriental dessert.
Ralph Lauren at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014
Ralph Lauren put forward a classical and monochrome collection on last day of NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Starting with chic business outfits, dominated mostly by blacks and whites and a variety of floral and square patterns. Skirts, three piece suits, as well as evening gowns glazed on the runway. The flow of this clear line during the second phase got pursued by unexpected pieces of vivid, acid- shrill colour ranges. Sharply-cut dresses were put together with matching accessories such as handbags, hats and sunglasses.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 womenswear Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, who is a former student of London’s Royal College of Art, showed off a duality of pieces in black, white and pastel colours. Diesel Black Gold’s edgy-chic look got highlighted by a range of dresses, skirts, blazers and tops with metal eyelets, zippers and buckles. Besides french braids created a girly, soft and romantic look. Appealing to a rather sophisticated and cosmopolitan clientele, Meldbostad succeed with showing numerous pieces in denim and leather, as well as assimilating silk georgettes in this collection. All in all his goal was to show “a new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness“.
Station to Station: A Public Art Project Made Possible by Levi's
This friday, artist Doug Aitken will commence his new project “Station to Station: A Nomadic Happening”, which will connect artists, musicians and creative pioneers of different disciplines. With help from Levi's, the brand that has been outfitting pioneers for more than 140 years, Station to Station will raise funds trough ticket sales and donations in order to support progressive projects in seven museums in the United States.
A train will go from New York to San Francisco during three weeks, making stops at ten different places along the way. While there, a series of happenings and interventions in the fields of art, music, cinema, literature and many more will take place. Doug Aitken designed the train that will act as a cultural studio and that will globally broadcast unique content and experiences from both the stops and the moving train.
Creatives participating in this project are among others: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Kenneth Anger, David Longstreth of Dirty Projectors, Olaf Breuning, Ariel Pink, Connan Mockasin, Peter Coffin, Urs Fischer, Meschac Gaba, Liz Glynn, Carsten Holler, Christian Jankowski, Dan Deacon, Savages, Dave Hickey, Barney Hoskyns, Rick Moody, Alice Waters, Leif Hedendal, Edible Schoolyard Project Aaron Koblin, Ernesto Neto, Jack Pierson, Stephen Shore, Rirkrit Tiravanija and Lawrence Weiner. For more information, visit www.stationtostation.com
Saul Leiter: 1949 – 1960
The success story of Saul Leiter makes for an unexpected tale; wandering in to the world of photography with no formal training, Leiter picked up the camera in the 1940s and never looked back. Catching the attention of Edward Steichen, his street-shot images received a brief but healthy measure of exposure, before hitting the archives, eclipsed by Leiter’s soaring status as a fashion photographer in the ‘50s and ‘60s. With Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar forming his typical clientele, street photography was relegated to a hobby - his outstanding prints and color slides laid redundant, unfairly stuffed into boxes until the 1990s, when Leiter began to revisit a perhaps more consuming body of work.
Now to grace the walls of the Galerie Springer in Berlin, a retrospective of Leiter’s considerately-composed prints will take centre stage – their sense of color isolated, and made all the more captivating in the process. Focus, too, plays to tune – unrehearsed as it may be – for a more sideways standpoint, taking the viewer delightfully unawares.
Saul Leiter: 1949 – 1960 will show at Galerie Springer, Berlin, from September 20th – November 9th
Diesel Opens Frankfurt Flagship Store
Raising the curtain after a three-year absence from the city, Diesel unveiled its new and long-awaited flagship store in Frankfurt’s main metropolis on August 1st. Split over two levels, the 383m² store will present pieces from both menswear and womenswear main line collections and Diesel Denim, alongside a discerning selection of shoes, bags and accessories. Four months of hard labour transformed the listed building into an inspiring retail space, built on the artful marriage of vintage and contemporary design accents, from cold, hard steel fixtures to wood block floors.
It’s most exciting element, however, is its devoted private areas to the Diesel Black Gold ready-to-wear collections - previously exclusive to a select handful of German stores, the Frankfurt store is now home to its most daring and directional line. And the new destination still has surprises in store, as September 5th will mark its large-scale opening event, and will be attended by founder of the label, Renzo Rosso, for what promises to be a truly spectacular launch.
Karl Lagerfeld Documentary: Fashion as Religion
Karl Lagerfeld is to star as the subject of a four-hour documentary, airing in Germany on September 7th. Mode Als Religion not only opens a window to the designer's life and career, but also draws parallels between the world of fashion and religion, likening consumers to followers, models to angels and magazines to the Bible. The work of German television journalist, Martina Neuen, the biopic is the result of 16 months of unprecedented access to Lagerfeld's assiduous daily routine, baring the bones of his creative process, from sketch to show to photograph.
Appearances by Suzy Menkes, Claudia Schiffer and Diane Kruger thread through the narrative of the subject, which in itself is mirthifully wry in observation, crediting himself as “a fashion missionary”. The documentary will also touch on Lagerfeld's private life, delving into a personal photo archive to illustrate his transition from son of a milk producer in northern Germany, to demigod of couture.
The documentary will premier at a special screening in Munich, to coincide with the opening of his new boutique in the city, before airing on German channel Vox on September 7th.
Mykita Opens Store in New York
Debuting their directional eyeware in the USA for the first time is Berlin-based brand, MYKITA. Adding to its list of worldwide locations that includes Paris, Zurich, Vienna and Tokyo, the New York store now marks the eigth retail space opened by the brand. Set in the heart of SoHo, the new MYKITA store overhauls a space in Crosby Street's defunct art deco factory building, retaining its original character with its industrial finish.
Almost an art installation in itself, the merchandising of the boutique is unique to the eye of MYKITA, drawing upon the concept of mass-production and ready consumption to construct an ambiance that is both inordinately stocked and astonishingly minimal. The store will offer pieces from their main line alongside a covetable capsule collection exclusive to 109 Crosby Street.
No Pain No Brain by Alexei Kostroma
Brazen statements regarding the declining economic state are nothing new for Russian contemporary artist Alexei Kostroma. Planting the seed of his ongoing series Bills & Debts in 2008, Kostroma's latest painting explores society's total dependence on money.
Entitled No Pain No Brain, the large scale mixed media piece illustrates the tight-knit relationship between the financial market and quality of living. From the canvas, “NO PAIN NO BRAIN – NO BRAIN NO MONEY – NO MONEY NO LIFE” is the despondent slogan that reads candidly between its expressively collaged bills and personal debts. Already anarchic with unapologetic disarray, fluorescent paint – invisible by day – emerges ungovernably come the night time, flaring its most radical observations in the desolation of dusk.
Claes Iversen Spring/Summer 2014
Known not for its tropical summers, Amsterdam nonetheless delivered a ray of sunshine at this season's fashion week in the form of the Claes Iversen show, inspired by the city's showery climate.
The banana-yellow ouverture said it all: a satirical displacement of a classic's typical context. Hooded macs cropped up throughout the collection, severed and layered or thrown suggestively over bare legs. Raincoats weren't the only pieces to face the chop; hemlines teased, courting thigh and floor with their sheer promiscuity, though tailored cuts and long fitted sleeves translate sensuality into sophistication.
Chiffon singlets were cinched into banded waists, rising as maxi-skirts or breezy palazzos flaring to a splaying umbrella line. All the while lengthy fringes were raining down in washed pastels, hailing unexpected embellishments as erratically as the weather.
COS to Launch Capsule Sterling Silver Jewellery Collection
With the visionary beauty of their last capsule collection still on everybody's minds, masters of minimalism COS are to launch a sterling silver jewellery collection, hitting the shelves this October. The limited edition line is to comprise of five key pieces; a ring, bangle, necklace, a stud and a hanging earring, each purified to a simple geometric shape for a clean-cut look that is typically COS.
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
More than multifaceted, Lanvin's Fall/Winter campaign teetered on the schizophrenic: twelve frames and twelve inongruous characters. Starring Edie Campbell, Abiah Hostvedt and Miles Langford, the studio portraits and short film depict a story styled to conntradict and confuse.
With Steven Meisel behind the lens, composision is reliably exacting, with painterly lighting further sculpting the air of a masterpiece. Powerfully statuesque, there is something of the Norman Parkinson belle in Campbell's pose. A bafflingly eclectic wardrobe spans kitsch and couture, whether its a butterfly/cow skin hybrid dress and turban or flared '50s shifts, its the indiscriminate hotchpotch of styles that brings the looks together as a whole. Brooches and bags studded with the words 'love', 'help' and 'cool' disorientate with their mixed messages and garish luxury.
Menswear, meanwhile, finds ground between sartorial and sportswear, pairing a rucksack and sneakers with an artfully mismatched suit. Animals under arm, Lanvin hits on a look that is fashionably derranged.
Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg
For the fifth year running, Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and Fashion ID have awarded the 'Designer for Tomorrow' award during MBFWB. As a visible platform for creativity, it gives up- and coming talents the opportunity to present their designs. This year's patron Stella McCartney helped mentor the finalists and gave them advise ahead of their showcase. The five designers were Katy Clark, Jamie Wei Huang and Ioana Ciulacu Miron from the UK as well as Hannah Kuklinski and Annalena Skörl Maul from Germany. With her collection 'Paradox', Ioana Ciulacu Miron took the award. For her it is all about contrasts. Her creations are soft and flowing, appear structured and feminine while simultaneously expressing a masculine strength. A diversity of materials like wool, plastic, chiffon and even plastic foam fuse in quite extraordinary unity. The prints on the pieces kept in subdued color were all hand-drawn by the designer herself. Having won over the jury and the audience, Ioana is 2013's 'Designer for Tomorrow'.
Issever Bahri Spring/Summer 2014
During MBFWB, Issever Bahri showcased a collection filled with contrasts. Inspiration came in the form of Turkploitation of the 70s, the low budget copying of Hollywood productions. What often resulted in one-of-a-kind pieces, funny and sometimes absurd, served as the foundation of Issever Bahri's spring/summer 2014 collection. Crocheted leather bands formed nets, which Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri molded into pants, skirts, tops and dresses, married with shiny and sheer fabric. Ornaments are a tribute to the designer's Turkish heritage and emblazoned symmetrically cut sweaters, dresses and jackets. They come in either a white-red combo or different shades of green. In using belts, the duo pulls in the waist, adding femininity to their designs. For all its sophistication, the collection, much like its inspiration is loud and out there - a fun addition for spring/summer 2014.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Mariko Mori X Madame Butterfly
Designing the sets and costumes for a special adaptation of Madame Butterfly is contemporary Japanese artist, Mariko Mori. Renowned for her conceptual work, the internationally acclaimed artist will work to produce a visual feast, bringing the story of Madame Butterfly to life like never before; drop cybernetics and monumental water make the fascinating fixtures of Mori's retro-futuristic universe. The performance will run as part of an initiative conducted by the Venice Biennale and the Teatro La Fenice, marking a sturdy first step in the way of a developing collaboration. Madame Butterfly premiered at La Fenice last week, and will run again from October 12th-31st.
Yoko Ono's Meltdown Festival
Yoko Ono's Meltdown Festival Since 1993, London's Southbank Centre has marked the start of the summer season with its guest-directed Meltdown Festival. Each year, one of the world's most celebrated musicians is given free rein to curate the bill, restricted by neither media nor convention. Such freedom certainly makes for an eclectic treasure-trove of events. Past years have put the line-up in the trusted hands of Nick Cave, Patti Smith and David Bowie, but this year sees Yoko Ono take full charge.
Kicking off the revelry this Friday will be a rare performance by the curator herself, with the Yoko Ono Plastic Ono Band. The week brings more musical delights in the form of performances by Iggy and the Stooges, Peaches and Marianne Faithfull. June 15th and 16th shine a light on activism, with a weekend of talks and workshops led by artists and activists who strive for change. Patti Smith makes a welcome return to the festival, with An Evening of Words and Music, an intimate recital of her Poetry back catalogue. Meanwhile, a selection of Ono's favourite films will screen throughout the festival at the neighbouring BFI cinema, including rarely seen footage by John and Yoko. The John Lennon Educational Tourbus will also be parked outside the Royal Festival Hall, running intensive programmes for young local artists to learn how to create music videos and reportage films. About the initiative, Yoko Ono said, “This is a project John Lennon would have loved”.
Yoko Ono's Meltodown Festival runs at various venues of the Soutbank Centre, London, from June 14th-23rd.
Paul Housley at Belmacz Gallery London
The prestigious Belmacz Gallery features a collection of work by iconic London-based artist Paul Housley, entitled 'They Bloom at Night' that spans eighteen years of his career. 'Music from the Studio' -an exclusive 96-pages artists' monograph- gets launched coinciding with the show. The high-quality hard cover edition captures 'The River' -an essay by writer and critic Martin Herbert-, next to various of Housley's renowned paintings. Born in Stalybridge, Greater Manchester in 1964, Paul was a MA student at the Royal College of Art in 1995. In the following years he produced numerous of small scaled drawings and paintings, executed on reclaimed hardback book covers, often figurative and of a darkly humorous nature. Being inspired by Velazquez, Picasso and Rembrandt, he created unique and highly characteristic artwork featured in various group and solo exhibitions.
As Housley has explored different mediums and genres within his artistic period, his still-lifes, 3D sculptures, portraits and found canvas frames function as hybrids of different mediums and genres. Assessing Housley's latest body of paintings, he takes his inspiration from found objects, he finds e.g. on fleamarkets. Then, the power of his paintings arises through his endless studies and explorations of these items and seem honest, inquisitive and slightly humorous. Like much of his work, re-occuring motifs become characters in his ever increasing internal world and operate as totemic objects, psychical manifestation rather than mere ‘pictures’, they are imbued with intellectual and emotional resonance, and vibrate with the hopes, fears and desires of the artist. As e.g. the piece 'This is a Wife' operates somewhere between a painting and a sculpture, a paint laden tea spoon is attached to a small rectangular deeply stretched white canvas.
Located in a Regency townhouse on Davies Street, the Belmacz Gallery is not only a place to find founder Juila Muggenburg's iconic jewels, but also a melting point for high-quality art creating a dialoque between artists, sculptors, craftspeople and designers. The Gallery also encompasses an alchemy-inspired beauty collection, including products for lips, eyes and make-up.
'They Bloom at Night‘ is on from the 17th October until the 13th of December 2013 at 45 Davies Street, London.
GUCCI's 'Cruise 2014'
Inspired by the vibrant South American temperament of Rio de Janiero, Creative Director Frida Giannini designed the exclusive 'Cruise 2014‘ womens' collection, an ex- clusive insight of must-have travel essentials for the modern GUCCI woman. The collection expresses opulent nonchalance, euphoriy, yet a strong glamourous appearance picking up 70ies styles of the Italian traditional house of GUCCI. Feminine overalls in wide silhouettes and slightly oversized proportions are combined with waist belts, among elegant evening gowns and the new kimono-wrap dress made of exclusive silks. Next to glamourous highlights some sporty influences conquer the GUCCI cosmos within bomber jackets, basketball-inspired T-Shirts and the FRIDA Shirt, the first time Giannini's name appears on one of the brand's designs.
The collection is especially characterized by using various high-quality materials, such as silk, featherweight crêpe de Chine, suedes and cashmere. Some pieces are made of shimmering hand-embroidered iridescent gold and silver sequins, more casual garments are adorned with Macro-Paisley-prints. Photographed against an orange, purple and pink sunset image, the whole colour palette of the collection ranges from exotic colours through to rusty and copper nuances, as well as metallic, silver and bronze shades. As expected, the Cruise 2014 is not missing out on three suitable handbag lines: The 'GUCCI 58‘, which customizes the charming looks of the season's collection. The 'Harness' combines the design of the GUCCI Horsebit with traditional craftsmanship, whilst the brand's outstanding characteristic bamboo detail gives an elegant allure to the feminine 'Hip Bamboo'. Metallic high-heel sandals and the Espadrilla wedges complete the looks of the sporty- glamorous women's 'Cruise 2014' collection.
Take a look at the whole collection on
The Madeleen- Bugaboo by Kaviar Gauche
The iconic Dutch pushchair brand Buga- boo teams up with avant-garde designer duo Kaviar Gauche in an ultimative collaboration of 'The Madeleen', a stylish and suitable must-have bag for a modern mother. As the brand Bugaboo stands for mobility and innovative design, this accessories sets new standards, especially for the mother's everyday use. The inspiration for this magnificent, yet handy bag came within a workshop of 'It-mums' of the German media landscape, who represented the potential customer and gave direct input of how an essential bag for a modern woman should be and look like. Kaviar Gauche incorporated these informations into the design process and created a bag made of luxurious black soft nappa leather combined with suede. The eye-catcher bag combines the classic tote form with the duffel bag look, has a removable bag-in-bag with various inside pockets and a zip, which separates the base from the rest of the bag.
'The Madeleen' will be available online from November 2013 as a limited edition of 300 bags.
Zeno X Gallery 'TWICE'
The renowned Antwerpian Zeno X Gallery will showcase an exclusive exhibition entitled 'TWICE‘ featuring the two significant painters Luc Tuymans and Marlene Dumas. After their work has been put together in group exhibitions before, for this occasion the two of them will be showing a complete body of work alongside each other for the first time. There is no specific theme, that connects their works, still there are certain similarities, yet interesting differences that become visible, once you look at them in a closer way. As both artists are influenced by photography, television and cinema and documenting their surroundings through a correspondent perspective, this is the essence of stimulating the dialogue about painting between both of them. The colours Tuymans uses are warm and vibrant, contrasting with the colours of Dumas, who uses a more cold and bright colour palette.
Luc Tuymans was born in 1958, in Mortsel and is one of the most influential and important painters of his generation. Being known for his complex socio-cultural analyses and interpretations, his intentions always refer to dark, muted scenes. Often his motives are charged with sinister meaning and seem vaguely familiar. Tuymans clearly defines the concept for his exhibition, explores the theme and decides in advance what the paintings should look like. The actual painting process is concentrated and fast. For 'TWICE‘ the Belgium painter took some remained unfinished works from his archive, he did a few years ago. Originated in a small painting he made in 1987 of a cook, "he reused this old image but chose to create a large-scale painting. In 'Cook' we see a man stirring a liquid mass in a large pot. The man's face is blurry either due to the steam emanating from the pot or because of a light that shines behind him."
Marlene Dumas therefore has a different way of using her creativity. Her amazingly beautiful paintings delve out of the moment, and integrate complex themes—“ranging from segregation, eroticism, or, more generally, the politics of love and war“.
The exhibition will be on at Zeno X Gallery, Antwerp Borgerhout, Belgium from 6th of November till 21st of December, 2013. There will be a Preview on Sunday, 3rd November from 3-6 pm.
ASVOFF 6th edition's 'Winning films'
For the 6th edition of ASVOFF Diane Pernet announced the winning films on Tuesday, 22nd October 2013, that were selected during the festival days from the 11th till the 13th including more than 100 in and out competition films, showcasing 'a weekend of cinematic intrigue, trail- blazing fashion, magnetic personalities and passionate performances'. Since launching the festival in September 2008, the Centre Pompidou annually transforms into a venue, showcasing magnificent and highly sophisticated feature films, documentaries, performances and installations.
'HOLI HOLY' by Bharat Sikka
The three-day brought together notable names such as Mike Figgis, Bettina Rheims, Wing Shya, David Sims, Ellen Von Unwerth, Bruce Weber and prestigious fashion brands such as Dior Homme, CHANEL, Pierre Cardin, Hussein Chalayan. Six highly talented filmmakers were chosen by a group of renowned jury members such as Michele Lamy, Laurens Van Den Acker and Danielle Ryan. The contributors walked away with nine trophies for their excellent fashion films.
'BFC LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN FW13' by Matt Lambert
The ASVOFF GRAND PRIX, BEST SOUND PRIZE and BEST EMERGING TALENT -awarded by Nowness- went to Bharat Sikka and Manish Arora for their breathtaking film ‘Holi Holy‘, which captures an obscure atmosphere, as well as beautiful and strong images, shot in India. The story is about the main character Bishi Bhattacharya, who explores a small village in India, where "the forgotten women are part of the community again. But only for a short while". BEST ART DIRECTION and BEST STYLING went to Matt Lambert's short film 'BFC London Collections: Men FW13', which tells the story of three young British men and their personal relationships with style.
'SHE SAID, SHE SAID' by Stuart Blumberg
'SISTER ACT' by Ellen Von Unwerth
Furthermore, a truly entertaining film was 'She said, she said' by Stuart Blumberg. Being awarded for BEST ACTING, the short film tells the story of a lesbian couple that meets for divorce attempts to divide their possessions through mediation. 'Sister Act‘ by Ellen Von Unwerth won the BEAUTY PRIZE in collaboration with Make Up Artist Vicky Steckel awarded by MAKE UP FOREVER.
All winning films are featured on www.nowfashion.com
Peter Beard by Owen Edwards, Nejma Beard and David Fahey
TASCHEN published an one volume edition of legendary multi-artist and adventurer Peter Beard featuring his most important photographs, collages and diaries. After the edition in two volumes was sold out immediately in 2006, the collector’s item is now available in a 770-page hardcover edition edited by Owen Edwards, Nejma Beard and David Fahey. Peter Beard -who was born in New York City in 1938 -started documenting his surroundings very early in his childhood. After graduating from Yale University, he discovered his passion for Africa and assembled the history of his african life experiences captured in this very exclusive TASCHEN edition.
It offers an exclusive insight into the world of Peter Beard and shows his commitment to ecologic efforts and the protection of the environment. His impressive, yet sad collages are a canvas for found objects, animals and landscapes, border-framed by smaller-scale images and often animal blood used as paint. In Peter Beard's delicate work the significance of nature reaches the observer and makes the beauty and uniqueness of it visible.
By Rebekka Ayres
A concept conceived under the umbrella of one of Europe's wettest cities, Norwegian Rain is a label for the elements, fashioned for those who like their rainwear sartorial. The Bergen-based brand threads Japanese sensibility into function-rich outerwear, unperturbed by a market saturated by PVC raincoats and flimsy anoraks. For Norwegian Rain, performance is high, meticulously designed, and aesthetically aware, making the age-old dilemma between practicality and design wholly obsolete. Working in weatherproof membrane fabrics recycled and imported from Japan, designer T Michael and creative director Alexander Helle produce collections bespoke to the style climate of each season. Born from Norway's 'dugnad‘ tradition – a neighborly philosophy by which communities volunteer their services to achieve a common goal – it was the enterprising imagination of the brand that invited collaboration between Bergen's creatives, culminating in this finely-engineered fabrication. Materials are equally ethical, sourcing organic cotton and abstaining from solvents, while reducing CO2 emissions by 80 percent in the process.
Men‘s shapes take heed from the time-honored trench, with resourceful cuts shaking off the shackles of their fusty predecessors. Whether double or single-breasted, finishes defy their expectations. By displacing fastenings and concealing cryptic details, raincoats offer a Swiss army-knife variety of options, shape-shifting in seconds to an entirely new guise. Folds serve both high neck and open lapel, converting from spread to standing collar in a matter of moments. There is even a detachable hood to shield against the transient temper of the clouds. While silhouettes transform, color remains consistent, in a muted palette of olive green and greys. Herringbone takes black to a soft and subtle charcoal with its quiet texture, lending just enough elaboration to let the balance hang in the hands of form. Women, too, have a compass of choice, as classic belted macs unbuckle readily into swing capes. The unisex Raincho, meanwhile, marks Norwegian Rain’s most ingenious legacy to date, being at once a comfort staple and a sculptural marvel. Horn buttons punctuate the purity of its outer shell, enveloping the body with the considered vigilance of exquisite origami. Embracing the frame with downy cashmere linings, Norwegian Rain‘s scrupulously-constructed pieces give good enough reason to yearn for rainy days.norwegianrain.no
Levi's® Revel Launch
Denim is the universal everyday uniform. Skinny or high-waist, boyfriend or drop-crotch, the selection seems endless. Unfortunately, so does finding that one perfect pair. Enter Levi's®, who have been on the forefront of finding the perfect jeans throughout the company‘s history. Last night they unveiled their latest breakthrough at their Berlin store. What started with the female-only Lady Levi‘s® in 1934 and went high-tech with the Curve ID system in 2010 has gone through yet another evolution.
The Levi‘s® Revel employs liquid shaping technology, a system that infuses the denim with a liquid to control its stretch in all the important places and highlights the female form by lifting and modeling the silhouette. 'Super memory retention‘ in the four-way-stretch is an ideal partner in crime, letting the Revel snap back to its original form no matter what shenanigans they‘ve been put through.
The Revel is based on the Levi‘s® Curve ID Fit System, and available in Slight, Demi and Bold Curve. Details such as the special contouring finish, elongated seams or the positioning of pockets are supposed to optimize the silhouette. A number of finishes, washes and colors, as well as skinny or straight legs assure the right model for all shapes, sizes and tastes.
Wolfgang Joop, Richard Müller and Mel Ramons exhibition in Leipzig
Don‘t miss the upcoming exhibition of ‘Die Schöne und das Biest‘ (‘The Beauty and the Beast‘) at the ‘Museum der bildenden Künste Leipzig‘. The exhibition will showcase a total of around 150 paintings, prints and drawings by the three unique artists Mel Ramons, Richard Müller and fashion designer and painter Wolfgang Joop. Renowned artist Mel Ramons -an icon of Pop Art of the 20th century- focuses in his paintings the sense of a female body on a high graphical level. Mel Ramos became known in the 1960s through his commercial erotically-charged paintings, in which he placed Pin-up‘s next to consumer products such as Coca Cola bottles, chocolate bars or cigars.
The exhibition opens on 12 October 2013 at 18.00 and will be on from 13 October 2013 until 12 Janury 2014.
Marc Jacobs's last show for Louis Vuitton
First it was a rumor, now it is out: Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton. Being one of the most important American designers of the 21st century, Jacobs has been creative director since 16 years turning the iconic luggage brand into a new era of fashion-forward design. Jacobs leaves the brand to focus more on his own label in the future. His last appearance at Louis Vuitton was a poetic retrospective and breathtaking nostalgic performeance, awarding elements of former shows. Accompanied by dark, tragic and celebratory music the show announced the end of a grand era. As anticipated the collection embodied the extravagant, rebellious and genius essence Jacobs is loved for.
Immense peacock feather headpieces arised on the runway with black dominated garments. A clock, a carousel and fountain created a melancholic atmosphere and made this show be an elaborate highlight on last day of Paris Fashion Week.
A.F. Vandevorst at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
With the sand still in their hair and with rattling Bedouin jewelry announcing their arrival, it was clear that the A.F. Vandevorst woman for Spring 2014 was a nomad at heart. Slouchy silhouettes based around semi-transparent sarouels were anchored by dramatic collars and tailoring, while beading and metallic touches made the collection more sophisticated. This collection marked the 15th anniversary of the brand by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx and the collection featured some flashbacks, but at the same time it offered plenty of new propositions.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
On the third day of Milan Fashion Week the label Iceberg showcased a collection that reflected japanese pop culture and manga aesthetics. Young, fresh and modern were the key words, that young, talented designer Alexis Martial reached out for. He highlighted his stunning pieces by hologramms, prints and embroidered colourful patches, that showed the design of an abstract Iceberg. The collections colour base throughout was dominated by bright colours, white, mint and a light blue made of materials such as neoprene, silk muslin, rhodoïd bands and ultra sheer nylon knit fabrics, that were a product of a special textile process. Martial‘s mission to bring the house of iceberg to a new great dimension succeeded.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Giorgio Armani Womenswear collection was a haunting highlight on last day of Milan Fashion Week. The traditional Italian house of Fashion showcased a casual, yet elegant collection mainly focusing on fluid and light designs. Draped garments achieved a spirit of fantasy and romance by playfully using volume and form. Key items of this collection were transparent dresses, tunics and coats arising the runway in a colour palette of purple, lilac and pink. Layered chiffons, jacquard silks and elasticized cottons incarnated ultimate perfection and extravagance and gave a prelude to how Spring/Summer 2014 will look like.
Burberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Burberry Prorsum for Spring/ Summer 2014 season showcased a collection of warmness and fragility. Cashmere cardigans, new construed trench coats, gracile pencil skirts and tops of organza in pastel shades of lavender, rose, mint, and cornflower blue created an idea of something sexy and a little vulnerable but with something protective and safe and top. Laces with floral patterns underlined the romantic approach this collection had
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2014
Creative director Emma Hill showcased exclusive garments for the traditional english brand Muberry. To invite guests to its London Fashion Week show, Mulberry decided to send miniature teacups and saucers created by iconic English tableware and lifestyle brand Wedgwood. The miniatures were- held inside a box embossed with a traditional stately home, the guests’ first glimpse of the catwalk theme. The ‘dolls house’ teacup and saucer were based on the Wedgwood Jasperware in traditional Jasperware colours, which also beautifully reflected the seasonal tones in the Mulberry’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection.
Approaching a playful spirit, the designer managed to showcase a combination on traditional looks on one side and modernism on the other side. Speaking of British Heritage the collection included good quality fabrics such as luxury silk and leathers, all in creamy whites and monochromic colours. Culottes and wide overall’s, sleeveless dresses with flower patterns and leather skirts with simple tailored voluminous blouses on top played the key role in this extraordinary selection of pieces.
Calvin Klein at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Speaking the language of minimalism and innovation, Francisco Costa, who is Creative Director for Clavin Klein since 10 years now, put on the final run at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Simple, oversized and unfinished looking pieces gave an industrial, experimental look.
Knee lenght skirts, on top oversized tops and wide-strap dresses were made of unique fabrics like woven snakeskin, silk and multicoloured yarn. Inspired just by a simple boys‘ T-Shirt and potato bags, Francisco experimented on taking apart, fringing and fraying his exclusive fabrics, that were dominated by white, bright sandy and black colours.
L’ Aventure Pop-up Shop opens up in Paris
L’ Aventure is a pop-up store designed in collaboration with canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé and his team. ‘The Louis Vuitton’s experience doesn’t stop as soon as you walk out the store with your luggage, they’re in it for life with you.’ This unpredented space highlights Louis Vuitton’s expert authority on travel, since Louis Vuitton’s monogram shows up daily on every airport worldwide. The store will offer not only objects, but also a number of unique services, such as offering a wide range of options for customising luggage.
L’ Aventure opens on 12 September 2013 on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Where would you look to find the fashion’s face of today? When many would turn to the catwalks, Diesel – with its hopeful spirit ready to ‘Reboot’ – has herded an army of outsiders from the fertile soil of the brand’s Tumblr page. A practising follower of social media, newly-appointed Artistic Director, Nicola Formichetti, was the main protagonist to what is a refreshing chapter in the Diesel story – a change of narrative and a fresh plot to match. Formichetti’s vision is one that unearths and champions the most relevant talent of our time – something he has always been keen to depict through his imagery – and the Fall/Winter 13 campaign is no different.
The subjects make for an eclectic cast, comprised of Japan’s current obsession (actress Kiko Mizuhara), rosy-haired Bronx graffiti artist (Michelle Calderon) and female Olympian-turned-male model (Casey Legler). Throw in an Italian electro-house DJ (Bob Rifo) and an alienesque Dylan Fosket, and the troupe grows curiouser and curiouser. The styling of each shot was entrusted to the individual, with the vital Diesel staples to hand – a wardrobe of denim and leather pieces, customised by Formichetti himself. Composed in classic-portrait style, the shots frame the atypical models with brilliant nobility, and with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinnodh Matadin on board as photographers, they strike a formula to render snapshots as artefacts of modern times.
New Mulberry Bayswater Shoulder Bag
It is surely a testament to design when an accessory comes to be a celebrity in itself; sacrosanct and scrutinised by an adoring public, Mulberry’s Bayswater bag is just that – a cult style staple that is at once practical and ever en vogue. Though change is in the air this Fall/Winter, as a handsome adaptation of the label’s dearest descendant is sure to cause quite a stir among disciples and decriers alike.
Effortless and unassuming, the new Bayswater Shoulder bag is very much the cooler, cultured cousin to Mulberry’s iconic original – insouciant and bare but for its enviable quantities of uncalculated chic. Exquisitely crafted leathers case its humble frame, streamlined to its classic and quintessential components. In Autumnal hues of taupe, crimson, plum and midnight blue, the superb grain of the polished skins comes to surface, from grainy calf and goat hides, to tactile lizard prints. Alongside this novel addition to the lineage, is the Bayswater Double Zip Tote; a distinguishable relation to its ancestor, but reworked, this time with an optimised layout, made possible by a zipped compartment layout. All the while, dependably present is the charming motif of the classic Bayswater – or, rather, any Mulberry handbag worth its salt – in the form of its plated postman’s lock – a Royal seal, if ever there were one. Only one element is sure to stay consistent to such a tumultuous collection: it won’t be long before the Bayswater Shoulder is seen to be a pin-up in its own right.
Available online and in stores as part of the Fall/Winter 13 Main Collection
Armani/Casa for Paranoia by Robert Luketic
Giorgio Armani is no stranger to the silver screen. Since he first dressed Richard Gere and Lauren Hutton in American Gigolo in 1980, his designs have taken a starring role in hundreds of films, from Shaft to The Dark Knight Rises. Set design, however, is a more exotic prospect for the designer.
Working closely with production designer David Brisbin, pieces from the Armani/Casa line furnish the scenes of Robert Luketic’s anticipated thriller, Paranoia, fashioned to imbue a clean and contemporary atmosphere that is integral to the ethos of Armani. The character of Adam Cassidy, played by Liam Hemsworth, is a burgeoning young businessman, who has just moved into a new luxury apartment – denoted, of course, by Armani/Casa’s sleek and sumptuous scenery; sofas, lamps, tables and chairs frame an aspirational setting, adhering to the sense of sharp, tailored and irrefutably masculine lines for which the brand is best accredited.
Wardrobe, too, received the Armani treatment, together with costume designer Luca Mosca. Two-button notch lapel suits and blazers in midnight blue and cement grey clothe characters played by Harrison Ford and Jock Goddard, working in incisive tailoring, to modern, yet timeless silhouettes. On the project, Giorgio Armani spoke of the fun of dressing a movie villain, and also described the collaboration as an opportunity to showcase the Armani/Casa range in a light that was appropriate and believable to the storyline. Though this may only mark a cinema debut for the range, the promise of this new creative venture is enough to make you yearn for a sequel.
Miu Miu at Venice Film Festival 2013
Miu Miu is to make a return to the Venice Film Festival this August, continuing its series of short films, Women's Tales. Each piece the work of an international female director, The Door by Ava DuVernay and Le Donne della Vuccirira by Hiam Abbas will premier on August 29th. Following last year's successful format, the fifth and sixth installments have been produced in partnership with independent film company, Venice Days, and are to be accompanied by a selected discussion panel, exploring the roles and works of women in cinema. The Venice Film Festival runs between August 28th and September 7th.
Prada Marks 100th Anniversary with Galleria Restoration Project
Setting up shop in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 1913, Mario Prada – father of the legendary fashion house – opened the first of many Prada boutiques under the roof of Milan's most spectacular shopping mall. A neo-classical landmark, the ornate architecture of its breathtaking façade is all part of the romance in the Prada story.
In fitting commemoration to its centenary, Prada plan to reinforce its roots with an extensive restoration of an entire quadrant of the Galleria, opening onto its historic central intersection and adjacent to its current residence. The Prada Galleria was waved in by the launch of a new dedicated menswear store.
At 400m², it occupies not even a tenth of the proposed development, saving room for more sales space, event areas, a restaurant, an exhibition hall for contemporary art under the Prada Foundation and brand headquaters. The ambitious renovation will encompass a thorough reworking of the vicinity, from interior layout to its outer structure, sculpting a complex for culture, business and lifestyle in the heart of the city, and under the magnificent roof of a monumental Milanese fixture.
Levi's 501 Celebrates 140th Anniversary With Book Launch
A 20th century icon, it's hard to believe the immortal Levi 501 jean walked into its 140th year with the turn of the calendar. Ripened and reshaped since 1873, its silhouette has evolved and abstracted definition by the hands of its forebearers, unfurling into an icon itself throughout the course of its unfleeting lifetime.
To document its status as an artifact of modern times, Levi's have complied a catalogue of photographs for the book Levi's 501 Interpretation, the denim the esteemed subject of 501 personal styles. Its compelling personalization makes for compulsive page turning, the unique charmisma of each sitter providing constant refreshment and charm. Limited to a droll 501 special editions, the book was launched last Wednesday with a viewing at Berlin's 032c workshop, to a warm reception which counted Clemens Schick, Coco Krebitz and Hien Le as its guests.
Levi's 501 Interpretation will be available online and in selected stores worldwide from August.
Trentemøller – Lost
You could say Anders Trentemøller has pulled out a wild card yet again, but what would a more 'predictable' album have conformed to anyway? Though Lost has timbres of the Trentemøller guitar sound of 2010's Into the Great Wide Yonder, his third full-length piece leaps far away from anything the artist has produced before; less cinematic, more track-driven. Club sonics creep in from The Last Resort, but find their own shape in a surprisingly-mixed landscape.
Twelve tracks retain the haunting ambience that defined Lost's predecessors, but a pulsing sub woofer bass tone leads the sound to punk rock – barbarous and raw. Each listen opens the door to an unheard tenor, boundlessly profound in its burying depth. This is the sound of months of isolation. Self-induced insomnia made way for unbridled experimentation; Constantinople is weighed down by heavy organ grooves, while the single Never Stop Running features Jonny Pierce of The Drums in a ghostly electronic wave. Solitary confinement did make exception for the odd considered musical collaboration. Sune Wagner of The Ravonettes is impetuously dropped into a club song to exhilerating effect, while the other appearances from slow-core pioneers Low and the shoegazey dream pop of Kazu Makino weave an elaborate tapestry that is – true to form – expectedly unexpected.
Lost is released September 23rd 2013
Bourgeoisie, Swing and Molotov Cocktails: Amerika Haus Through the Ages
More than the vacant architectural souvenir from the '50s it currently stands to be, Berlin's Amerika Haus was the backdrop to quite a movement in 20th century social change.
Its beginnings trace back to the late 1940s, originally designed to counteract the Nationalist Socialist past of the location, and dissipate anti-American sentiments that had found their way into politics for decades past. Through the '50s, Amerika Haus offered access to American culture and politics, with German citizens able to explore a library of US literature, magazines, theatre, films and concerts, or attend English courses. Since then, the institution has transformed itself in various incarnations; during the time of the Berlin wall, Amerika Haus became a place for the re-education of the Germans, a location for anti-communist propaganda, and from the '70s, a run-of-the-mill regional cultural centre.
Over the years of anti-American protest that saw eggs and Molotov cocktails thrown at the building, and with the terror attacks on September 11th, the building has become increasingly closed off – almost a fortress with its high fences and rolling grilles. Adopted by C/O Berlin, Amerika Haus is soon to house the gallery's exhibitions, at last reconnecting with its primordial function. Until doors open in Spring 2014, displays will occupy the authentic open-air surroundings of its exterior, with Amerika Haus Through the Ages kicking things off as its first free 24 hour exhibition, on show until September 15th.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Graciously composed in timeless black and white, the John Varvatos Fall/Winter 13 campaign stars American music legend Wilie Nelson and his sons in what makes for a beautifully fashioned family portrait.
Shot in Des Moines, Iowa by photographer Danny Clinch, Willie, Lukas and Micah – each an established musician – pose nobly before the stately architecture of Salisbury House. Embodying the strength of Varvatos' collection with his compelling presence, Willie's sense of style permiates through the images, as his own boots partner the black Hampton tuxedo and wing-collared shirt.
A short film accompanying the campaign will also premier the John Varvatos website on July 9th, in which the Nelson family perform the song Still is Still Moving to Me. Conversation cuts guitar-playing in this mini-documentary, which affords an intimate insight of music and memories – three minutes just doesn't seem long enough when watching this tender portrayal of a truly treasured musical icon.
Isabell de Hillerin Spring/Summer 2014
The beautiful and talented Isabell de Hillerin put forward a smart and relaxed collection for spring/summer 2014. Her label stands for elegance, structured cuts and details which remind of an old tradition. She works with fabric manufacturers from Romania and Moldova, a traditional artisan industry on the verge of extinction, which she is supporting. In her spring/summer 2014 collection, titled 'relief', embroidery either accentuates shoulders and necks or adds intrigue to clear cut shorts or shirts. The color palette spans from white, grayish beige and light lavender to a strong tangerine and royal blue with some black pieces in there. All allude to a midsummer day, when a brewing storm forecasts the imminent relief from the heat of the city. Isabell de Hillerin's designs balance this forceful color story in their almost masculine elegance: sharp Bermuda shorts meet ornamental shirts, wrap-around blouses, strong shift dresses and two pieces. Flowing skirts, deep v-necks, thigh-high slits and geometrical cut-outs add a subdued sexiness to the collection. The urban summer vibe once again showed when the models carried their pretty high heels in hand for final runway, strutting along to Bon Iver's 'Skinny Love'.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Vladimir Karaleev Spring/Summer 2014
Off-white, beige, taupe, dark blue and black – Vladimir Karaleev's world in colors. For his spring/summer 2014 collection he cut off delicate silk and chiffon, having the hems appear unfinished. In stark contrast, he teamed these pieces with sturdy jackets and pants, achieving a soft but cool look. Karaleev stuck to his tried and tested wide and loose silhouettes throughout the collection. However, with his delicate choices and sheer panels, sex appeal does not fall short. His combinations of almost tone-in-tone pant, top and waistcoat or jacket call for a windy summer by the sea, and his blue and black styles are a perfect update of the urban summer uniform.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Anton Corbijn Recieves First Raw Leica by G-Star
On the week of the Pitti Immagine menswear fair, pioneering denim brand G-Star launched the new RAW Leica camera, presenting the first of the special edition of the Leica D-Lux 6 Series to legendary photographer, Anton Corbijn. After accepting the Leica, Corbijn shared five inspirational photography tips in an online video for the G-Star website. Recognised for his earthy and resonating style, the collaboration between Corbijn and the two companies seemed organic, each upholding ideals that are rooted in the street.
As an affectionate favourite of street photographers since 1925, the Leica is championed for its unmatched functionality. Like its past incarnations, the Leica D-Lux 6 'Edition by G-Star Raw' is designed with practicality in mind; equipped with a fast and compact f/1.4-2.3 lens, media facilities span automatic, manual and Full-HD video recording modes. An improved sense of grip performs for the spontaneous photographer, reinforced by its generous 1.7” CMOS image sensor. Ever trend-aware, G-Star have cased the camera in brown leather – an immortal classic, which, with its shoulder and hand straps, will see it stand the test of time, like the exquisite photographs it will create.
The RAW Leica is available online and in selected Leica boutiques.
Punk+ by Sheila Rock
When Punk gatecrashed the seventies, Sheila Rock was part of the party. Having moved to London from Boston “as part of the David Bowie scene”, a chance invite from friend and Patti Smith guitarist, Lenny Kaye, made Rock spectator to a then-anonymous outfit, that just so happened to be The Clash. Only clairvoyance could have earmarked that the decision to take her camera that night would have life-changing implications.
Rock became the eyes and ears of the Punk movement, amplifying it's anarchic uprising through photographs which serve to document social history – quite extraordinary for an artist who very much fell into the trade inadvertently.
Raw and rebellious, her images reflect the era candidly. Portraits of musicians and soon-to-be figureheads, Souixsie Soux and the Sex Pistols, are composed with the unassuming honesty that is integral to its time, while snapshots from the street unapologetically catalogue the surging changes in fashion, politics and lifestyle.
Compiled for the release of her limited edition book, Punk+ captures the attitude of the age with unabating energy. Select photographs by Sheila Rock feature at the Met Costume Institute's Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition, while in London, a collection of images will be exhibited at Rough Trade East until 30th June.
Amsterdam Art Weekend 2013
'Toxic Trail' by Line Gulsett
'The Power and Influence of Joseph Wiseman' by Dave McDermott
Since last year the first annual Amsterdam Art Weekend was a significant happening for the art landscape of Amsterdam, the second edition will take place this year during the last weekend of Novemeber. Under the mission statement: Amsterdam is a hothouse of extraordinary talent, the festival will be showcasing today's emerging, yet established artists with an international outlook. Making top quality contemporary art accessible to an audience of international professionals and curious visitors, various exhibitions, live performances and gallery talks will take place at the key institutions including the Stedelijk Museum and a number of highly-renowned galleries. Besides, talented post-graduate artists-in-residence of the prestigious Rijksakademie van beeldende kunsten and De Ateliers cordially invite to their final groupshows.
'Come back, Muse' by Sigurdur Gudmundsson
The exceptional agenda of the festival offers a wide artistic spectrum from paintings to video art, to sculptures and installations, including important inter- national and Amsterdam-based artists such as Persijn Broersen & Margit Lukács, Sigurdur Gudmundsson, David Haines, Dave McDermont and Line Gulsett. The annual three-day art festival is organized by Capital A, an non-profit organisation that highlights and promotes the capital's contemporary art scene through collaboration with galleries, museums, and artist's residencies. Coinciding with the festival, the International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam (IDFA) will offer a variety of film screenings interacting with the exclusive schedule.
The Amsterdam Art Weekend is on from the 29th, 30th of November & 1st of December 2013 in diverse venues. The complete programme is available at
Ermenegildo Zegna's L.A. Global Store
To celebrate the opening of it's new global boutique on Rodeo Drive, the luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna hosted an exclusive soiree at the new designed three floor Concept store. Italian fashion designer and Zegna's Creative Head, Stefano Pilati showcased an impressive preview of the Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection, including mohair suits, wool gabardine jackets and floral jacquard knits. As always focusing on success, excellence and craftsmanship, the now available selection in the store dedicates to Italian high-quality heritage and ranges from clothing to accessories and fragrances, and from formalwear to sportswear, made of exclusive materials that have distinguished Zegna for over a century now.
The Beverly Hills boutique was designed by renowned architect Peter Marino and creates an extravagant ambiance, dominated by brownish, earthy and golden beige shades. The interior designs of the boutique echo the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style and enrich the visual shoppong experience in store, accompanied by a chic VIP room in the top floor devoted to personal shopping.Invited guests, such as legendary actress Sharon Stone and musician Gavin Rossdale, enjoyed a unique dinner and cocktail night at the JF Chen design gallery, and experienced the new creative concept behind the campaign Eminences Grises, shot by the two renowned photographers Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Under the artistic direction of Pilati the campaign images have been set up in the event space and marked another highlight of the opening.
The new global store is located on 337 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.
HUGO BOSS Asia Art Award
The Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai and HUGO BOSS announced Kwan Sheung Chi to be the first winner of the HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award. The newly established grant will be presented every two years from now on and honours emerging Asian artists, who are originate in the region of 'Greater China'. For this occasion, an international renowned jury of museum curators and art critics chose Kwan Sheung Chi out of seven finalists based on the current exhibition.
Multi-disciplinary artist Kwan Sheung Chi was born in 1980 and graduated in Fine Arts from 'The Chinese University of Hong Kong' in 2003. His artistic visions are affected by the artists' identity in contemporary society, mostly featuring video installations, that are a deep reflection and criticism of his perception. His humorous yet deeply critical artworks express cultural issues, often observed through the eyes of ordinary citizens, but also arise from his unique perspective. Kwan Sheung Chi's impressive concepts are found in various of his unique installations such as 'Break Up a Piece of Short Thread' and 'Water Barrier (Maotai-Water, 1:999)', the keypiece of this breathtaking exposition.
The exhibition will be on until 8 th of December, 2013 at the Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai.
G-Star RAW Presents Afrojack Capsule Collection
This November G-Star RAW is launching a unique six-piece capsule collection in collaboration with the Dutch DJ and music producer Afrojack. The limited collection consists of black leather and denim A-Crotch pants that G-Star designed in the brand's renowned 3D style, tailor-made for the acclaimed artist's performances earlier this year. In addition to that the collection features great T-shirts, a black hoodie and a cap, all dominated in black and white. The 'A' trademark is continued in the 'RAW' artwork and conveys a modern and technical feel with a glossy, high-density technique. Part of the collection will contribute to the MTV Music Awards.
The collection will be available from 10th of November. Watch the Making-of video on
Gesaffelstein “Hate or Glory"
Legendary French music producer and DJ Gesaffelstein released the official video for 'Hate or Glory‘, a record from his upcoming debut album 'Aleph', directed by creative duo Fleur & Manu. The remarkable cinematic work shows strong images accompanied by impressive sounds of dark techno beats and repeating riffs, which are underling the greed for money, power and glory. Introduced by the words "Ain‘t you remember, who put you on, who made you", the clip shows a rather serious story of a gang conflict in the streets of Los Angeles. The protagonist revolst against his mentor and than shoots him down, in conclusion of his new materialistic fame. He takes a bath in a tub full of golden liquid of melted jewellery, enjoying his new found power until he finally meets his old gang and get's killed. His golden body explodes as if it never existed. This evocative, ficitve video is a true masterpiece and adds a unique note to this yet strong sound.
Marc Jacobs Accessories Shop Opening
Some Marc Jacobs is great, but more Marc Jacobs is better. It doesn’t come as a surprise then that one of Berlin’s more luxe destinations – the Galeries Lafayette – have added the designer’s main line to their portfolio, which, until now, already included the younger and more affordable Marc by Marc Jacobs. The accessories shop is situated on the ground floor and offers goods from the Fall/Winter ‘13 collection, such as the super-feminine and modern “The Metropolitan" – a rather classical and sober bag in a high-velocity mix of velour and nappa leather.
Or the dearly personal “The 1984" – an elegant and feminine homage to the 80ies, Jacob’s graduation from Parsons The New School for Design, Madonna’s hit “Like a Virgin" and last but not least the designer’s encounter with Robert Duffy and the subsequent manifestation of the fashion brand under his name.
Dr. Martens x Gavin Watson
Certainly one of the strongest claims to counterculture, Dr. Martens boots with their trademark yellow stitching, grooved sole and heel-loop have defined a specific look. Countless rebellious streams, subcultures and tribes have adopted the style, which accompanies the journey towards-self expression. Aside from the boot itself, the brand has incorporated accessories and apparel into its collection. Enter renowned British photographer Gavin Watson.
He has been deeply involved with British subculture since adolescence and has documented the scene in his intimate photographs. Born in Northwest London in 1965, Watson started taking pictures at an early age. By the time he was 14 he had become a skinhead and immersed himself into this world of Dr. Martens, 2 Tone and Madness. Through all of it, he documented his buddies‘ shenanigans as well as those of his ‘muse‘ - his brother Neville - through the lens of his camera. Publications such as ‘Skins‘, ‘Skins and Punks‘ and ‘Raving ‘89‘ showcased his work to the world and have prone luminaries from Terry Richardson to Shane Meadows to hail him as a genius and even credit much of the look of the 2006 drama ‘This is England‘ to Watson‘s work.
For the Fall/Winter 2013 season Watson will present a capsule collection of limited edition printed T-shirts, which feature images from his vast archive. The images are captioned as ‘Nev flying the flag outside the Watson house in Hawthorne, High Wycombe‘, ‘Dean Spencer outside Camera Press, Coram St, Russell Square, London, 1981‘, ‘Nev’s sky blue Sta Press and Docs, Carnaby St. London‘ and ‘The Wycombe Marsh mob, Wycombe Marsh, 1981.‘ The shirts will be available in two different fits, for men and women respectively and will be available from Dr. Martens own retail stores and online from October.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace
Artist and rapper M.I.A. has designed an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace, entitled ‘M.I.A. x Versus Versace‘. M.I.A‘s up-coming line is inspired by bootleg market stall fakes. “Versace designs have always been bootlegged, now it‘s Versace bootlegging the bootleg for the bootleggers to bootleg the bootleg“, says M.I.A about her idea. The line features 19-pieces for men and women and combines Versace‘s trademarks with the urban and original spirit.
Printed jeans, silk shirts and jersey dresses in bright and loud colours glaze with kaleidoscopic prints, graphical ornaments and versions of the famous Versace emblem. Mexican photographer Jaime Martinez shot the unique digital GIF campaign featuring images of M.I.A. and friends wearing the collection on East London markets.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace will be available online and in selected stores on 16 October 2013.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
At Paris Fashion Week SS14 CHANEL showcased a vivid, optimistic and cheerful collection that linked art and fashion and manifested the creator‘s attitude towards a symbiosis between both. Karl Lagerfeld showed elaborate looks in the brand‘s cult fabric tweed embroidered with muslins, organza and laces, often frayed and torned. Spring/Summer 2014 at CHANEL will be dominated by a colour palette of blacks and whites next to pink, blue and yellow shades. Elements of the traditional costume got assembled in a new design and combine flowing, asymmetric and deep décolleté‘s with wide or slim silhouettes. Handbags, rings, bracelets and a new interpretation of the legendary pearl necklace completed this remarkable look.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Kenzo for Spring/Summer 2014 staged a unique and impressive runway set with a huge waterfall installation and splashes synchronized with the music beat in a rather unusual neighbourhood for a Fashion Week Venue: the suburb Saint Denis.The collection was speaking the true vocabulary of nonchalance and effortlessness. Laid-back streetwear was combined with a strong manner of japanese aesthetics and modern fashion.
The two young designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon managed to showcase a purist sense of permeability found in masculine cuts and sporty silhouettes. Sleeveless blazers, pleated pants and midriff blouses with fishes and waves transformed in graphic patterns were the key elements of most of the garments and illustrated Kenzo‘s affection for outstanding prints. The base colour of most of the pieces was a strong blue and lilac on a black and white base. Besides making a strong fashion statement, this show also committed to a strong political awareness regarding ocean pollution and overfishing.
Viktor&Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The background for the Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2014 collection was an institutional wall (maybe from a boarding school?) with the designers names clad on it in graffiti. That rebellious attitude persisted in the collection were good girls gone pretty bad. The schoolboy-uniforms showed today were deconstructed and heavily studded. Like a gothic cheerleader, the Viktor&Rolf girl pierced her collars or painted her shirt. New was the bermuda-shape, that in it‘s largeness, moved like a stiff skirt. Optional were the the little kilts in front and in the back.
Dolce&Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Designer-duo Dolce&Gabbana for Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 showcased garments, that got inspired by Roman and Greek mythology and the perfection of ancient temples and theatres. The collection thematically focuses on beauty, magic and enchantment and exposes pomposity and glamour in a strong manner. The main motives of this show were golden antique coins adorning dresses, headbands, jewelry and belts. Macramé and chiffon textiles in a colour palette of black, red, cream, dark green and esspecially gold dominated this selection of stunning pieces.
Remarkable prints of almond tree flowers, lithography of Sicilian temples and traditional decorations of ceramics highlighted exclusive fabrics such as lacquered silks, organza laces and gold-printed leather. Along with exclusive, luxury pieces, such as highwaist pencil skirt, fur vests, golden earrings and the newest Dolce & Gabbana bags entitled Eva and Sara, the fashion collection, was accompanied by the original music taken from various movies of Federico Fellini.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Philipp Plein‘s show at Milan Fashion Week has been a spectaculous highlight opening with an exclusive live performance of "Work“ by Australian rapper Iggy Azalea that combined the two worlds of Hip Hop and fashion. With a cast of only black models the german designer wanted to commit a statement towards breaking barriers and rules. Stunning beauties arised the runways in studded baseball jackets made of Nappa leather, striped socks and mini-pleated skirts all dominated by black, white, pink and blue colours and flashy metallic shades. Lacy night gowns made of translucent chiffons created a feminine-chic styling combined with eye-catching highlights of Swarovski crystals.
Gucci at MFW Spring/Summer 2014
The traditional Italian house Gucci on first day of Milan Fashion Week conquered the runway with pieces that blazed abroad nonchalance, femininity and elegance. Creative Director Frida Giannini based her collection on slight athletic influences matched with glamorous intricate finesse. The repeating key elements were bra tops wrapped in straps, leather-edged kimonos and low waist dresses with V- slits made of high-quality materials and sophisticated techniques, such as silks, plissés and chiffons, based on blacks as well as multi- coloured and gold shades. Highlighted by refined ornaments and sparkling sequins, this collection was truly in the spirit of Art Nouveau.
Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 2014
The must-see show on London Fashion Week’s schedule was no other than Vivienne Westwood, opening with a dramatic dance performance by Lily Cole inspired by Hans Christian Andersen.
Westwood later saying in an interview that this performance was about the consequence of global climate warming. Great craftsmanship and bizarre beauty got visible in hand tailored and draped jumpsuits and dresses dominated by olive green, earthy colours with floral photo prints. Climate as a key word printed on a top and crazy cosmetics related to the origin topic of environment change made this show outstanding and memorable.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela for this Spring/Summer 2014 showcased a conceptual collection highlighting pure perfection and vivacity. Accompanied by synth sounds and floating riffs, Margiela sent out on the runway contemporary casual garments, oversized tops and short cuted blazers. Speaking the true spring vocabulary in a neutral colour pallet, this collection shows an innovative attitude.
Hervé Léger by Max Azira, Mara Hoffman, Lacoste, Jill Stuart at NYFW
Third day at the New York Fashion Week brought up a number of remarkable styles. Designer Max Azira showcased his collection of pieces for Hervé Léger with geometrical printed patterns, sharp silhouettes, combined with leather pieces and added zippers. The show was accompanied by strong dynamic drum rhythms and thrilling beats.
Hervé Léger Spring/ Summer 2014
Mara Hoffman Spring/ Summer 2014
Continuing in Lacoste’s efforts to keep a certain contemporary look - Oliveria Baptista created remarkable pieces with a slight touch of sportswear. He sticks to the old image of tennis courts in strong colours such as clay browns, rosy beiges and dusty pastels.
Lacoste Spring/ Summer 2014
Last but not least speaking of Jill Stuart -who opened the show with a high waisted black skirt and a rounded shoulder top - is bringing back the seventies.
Jill Stuart Spring/ Summer 2014
Illustrative Berlin 2013
Dawning on the arts calendar once every two years, Illustrative Festival has tantalized and tormented since its last edition – a yearning that can now be put to rest, as Illustrative has landed in its hometown of Berlin, just in time to catch the last wave of summer.
A full-bodied ten-day line-up of graphic art and illustration will provide the perfect distraction to collectors, galleries and humble fans all the same, united by their mutual craving of freshly-baked, exhilarating creativity. The venue of the Direktorenhaus will transform into a hotbed for discussion and appreciation of prospective graphic trends and talents, inspiring in spades along the way with its inexhaustible showcase of disciplines from across the trade; works grace the more orthodox media of paintings, prints and sketches with their never-conventional statements, to the more conceptual formats of monumental graphics, sculpture, animation and installation. More than just an art exhibition, Illustrative has laid-on workshops, events, pop-up project spaces, live painting and a film programme, as well a rather intriguingly-named ‘illustrious wine-tasting’. Such an inspiring schedule, it goes without question: this is illustrative of how all art festivals should be.
Illustrative Berlin runs between August 31st – September 8th.
Onitsuka Tiger New X-Caliber Sneaker
Frontrunner of ‘80s sportswear, the iconic Onitsuka Tiger X-Caliber sneaker has been revived for 2013, and is fighting-fit to take on its increasingly urban 21st century surroundings. Heralded from birth for its intelligent practicality, function remains true to form – every inch the performance-boosting and injury-preventative staple that has proved faithful to athletes since 1982. Design, too, takes a step down the retro route; in its original swatches of blue, silver and off-white with red and royal accents, its distinctive vertical heel vents an aid to movement and cushioning for the foot, as its ‘quadra’ lacing inimitably zig-zags the tongue. The redesign of the new X-Caliber does not go without sharpening its cutting-edge: breathable mesh material softens the ‘80s blow, while a thick Memory EVA mid-sole considerately supports the foot of the modern day wearer. A sneaker whose founding vantage point was set leaps and bounds ahead of its time, the X-Caliber seems to slot seamlessly into the present, exploiting an edited silhouette and established heritage to compete with and overtake its more measured contemporaries.
Wish You Were Here by Nan Goldin
Nan Goldin's photographs hardly make the most traditional of holiday albums, still, the Wish You Were Here exhibition at the QF Gallery in New York will no doubt prove something to write home about. Her first presentation at the venue, the artist has bestowed eleven intimate color snapshots from her time at home and abroad, picked from her rich body of work, dating from the 1980s to the present day.
Living and working between Paris, Berlin and New York, where the roots of her career are bedded, Goldin is accredited as one of the spearheading photographers to infiltrate candid subject matter into the mainstream, challenging creative qualms as to her pioneering point-and-shoot perspective.
Portraits sit on the cusp between art and fashion photography, depending on the commission, though her work is arguably at its most innovative when framing family and friends as the atypical subjects – Wish You Were Here is no exception to the rule, ever surprising and boundlessly inspired, a collection of iconic portaits will hang alongside lesser known landscape scenes, as a visual diary of summers gone by.
Wish You Were Here runs between August 3rd-18th at the GF Gallery, East Hampton, New York
Camper Together with Bernhard Willhelm
Ever laced up in erratic beauty, Bernhard Willhelm's lucid aesthetic rarely fails to be brand itself as provocative – maniacally eclectic at the very least. His next collection for Camper's Fall/Winter line delves into the exotic, generating innovative and sporty styles to stand anarchically alongside the coveted Himalayan sneaker of collaborations past, reinterpreted ready for its latest incarnation.
Potent monochrome pigments are the product of the Himalayan's most recent evolution; in black, white and Royal blue, they are flexibly unisex, quiet with their peachskin contrasts, yet without falling short of statement detail. Corrugated platforms inject a less obvious slant on streetwear, while cartoony hose laces bundle on the tongue, grey and white threads twined to pull together its most distinguishing attributes.
Fresh offerings, like the Everest, too deliver an unconventional classic, aligning an original monotone upper with an inflate outsole for a brazen pop statement. An exclusive womenswear piece plays on the typical cowboy boot skeleton, boldly divided in two-tone suede and slouching aloof for a cooler, more comfortable update of a renowned silhouette. They say Bernhard Willhelm sees the beauty in chaos – his collection for Camper delivers just that.
H. Craig Hanna at Laurence Esnol Gallery
Breeding such talent as Keith Haring and David LaChappelle, it's no suprise that art critics and collectors alike look to New York's School of Visual Arts as a tip-off for finding artists about to flourish. Upon graduating as a Master of Fine Arts in 1996, it was only a matter of months before figurative painter H. Craig Hanna would secure an early eminence in the art world, bestowed an entire floor by the Bergdorf Goodman Gallery after a department store executive happened to see Hanna sketching and was struck by his hauntingly unfinished realism. The exhibition was a sell-out, and since then, Hanna has risen to acclaim as two-time winner of the BP Portrait Award and internationally showcasing artist. Since 2008, Hanna has been platformed at exhibits of the Laurence Esnol Gallery in Paris, where his work now claims permenant and exclusive residence.
Comparable in style to his cited inspirations of Egon Schiele and Lucian Freud, Hanna's distorted portraits occupy a less than orthodox canvas, their inky spectrums bleeding from raw wood and impassive linen, creating a striking contrast between subject and medium. Portraits are approached with the age-old modus of the great masters, taking diptych format to play with subjects and surroundings. Composed with a traditional eye, Hanna misconstrues his more classical references to Titian, Rembrandt and Whistler, ad-libbing instead with a lucid surrealism.
Bottega Veneta Opens New Los Angeles Concept Store
Descending on the distinguished surroundings of Melrose Place, Bottega Veneta will open its doors to the most neighbourly luxury retail quater of Los Angeles with a freshly conceived concept. Its ivied façade left virtually untouched, the interior of the 2, 727 square feet store will tailor to discerning L.A tastes with sleek displays intergrated into a gallery setting, designed to strip down the artistry of each product to its bare essence. Displays will be curated to impart a selection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, gifts and home accessories succinctly, with emphasis on a tailor-made shopping experience for its clients.
Sliding steel fixtures and mesh panels will industrialize its pristine white shell, opened up by its flooding light and clean lines. The vision of Creative Director Tomas Maier, unexplored design combinations based on clarity and space set the boutique apart from its relations. Transparent resin imbeds mesh for a futuristic feel, while white frosted glass and lacquered wood enhance the sense of slenderness – a touch taken even further with the addition of its open-air courtyard.
Beauty Without Irony Presents AIR/PORT
Taking haul of the Summer season, Beauty Without Irony presents AIR/PORT, an art exhibition and charity auction running from July to September in Essaouira, Morocco, before moving on to Antwerp, Belgium, in 2014. A cultural exchange between the two cities, the exhibition will showcase the work of fifty artists, both native and from afar, brought by the organisation behind Designers Against AIDS.
Eleven nationalities are represented, from the established professionals to breakthrough student talent of Lycée Mohammed V in Essaouira and the Sint Maria Instituut in Antwerp, who have contributed works interpreting two themes cherished by both cities: the wind and the port. Spanning 70 large 2x3 meter flags, the artworks stretch along the harbour front in a fitting homage to its subject. Original artworks by Olaf Breuning, Mohamed Tabal and Felix Richter will be displayed throughout venues accross the city, in a creative and educational program to unite the public in social concern for Beauty Without Irony's initiatives regarding HIV/AIDS, youth employment and cultural diversity, amongst many others. Simply put: a rich and engaging viewing for a meritable cause.
AIR/PORT runs from July 5th to September 5th accross various venues.
Royal Hem Fall/Winter 2013
Cyclewear just got stylish with Royal Hem's Fall/Winter 13 collection, a tribute to London's cult cycle ride and mirthfully named 'Tweed Run', for which contestants take to the pedals in a dress code of traditional British biking attire.
Royal Hem unpick the stitches that form the patchwork of British style; a fusion of sartorial British classicism, French mystique and knife-sharp Italian tailoring, its foreign accents are what steer the aesthetic from costume, to a kind of charisma that is more difficult to define.
Casual stands up to a hit of formality, with Shetland wools and Aran knits layering bow-tied shirts and waistcoats. Plus fours are revived with that eccentric taste for color-clashing that could only get past a British palate, as flecked tweeds and dogtooth checks bicker politely amidst a canvas of ¾ length pants and deconstructed blazers, lined with vintage Penny Farthing prints. Slimline silhouettes streamline with single breasted jackets, while Chesterfield coats are made boxy by shawl collars and patch pockets. Styled with a contemporary hand, however, fedoras and rolled ankle cuffs speak with an audacious London twang.
Stone Island Flagship Store Openings
Munich's Maximillian Strasse is soon to make room for a new resident at number 27, as Stone Island are set to open their second German Flagship store in the legendary shopping district this September.
The 100m² store follows the launch of its Sylt store in March 2012, and will stock both the Stone Island and Stone Island Junior collections, as well as the capsule Stone Island Shadow Project.
July 6th also saw the unveiling of another Stone Island Flagship store, this time in Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany. Images from the Stone Island Archivio '982'-'012' 30th anniversary book were projected onto the backdrop of a 10 meter-high floating installation, constructed in honor of the event.
In keeping with their other recent openings, oiled oak and stone lay a natural finish to the interiors, contrasted by the contemporary accent of luminous fibreglass and aluminium fixtures, holding collections in sunken cages made to a bespoke specification.
Michael Sontag Spring/Summer 2014
Inside and out - the binary behind Michael Sontag's spring/summer 2014 collection. Traditional linings such as horsehair took center stage during his presentation at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Intertwined with silks, light cotton, a polyamide-mix, and denim, the materials shaped his layered looks. The collection was elaborate and conceptualized, yet wearable. Sontag layered shorts of full length pants and topped them off with more layers on top, never loosing the airy lightness of his idea. From muted creme, black and gray to canary yellow and lagoon blue, the color palette corresponded to the trends for spring/summer 2014, as seen during Berlin Fashion Week thus far. Surprising sparkle in the designs came out as they moved along the runway: Sontag added Swarovski crystals to some pleats.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Marcel Ostertag Spring/Summer 2014
The most eclectic designer showing during MBFWB is certainly Marcel Ostertag. Always one to take things a little further, the designer himself took to the runway to open his show in a long blush gown jacket. What a way to celebrate his 15th collection thus far. His 'Fragile Explosion' really went for it with vivid colors such as turquoise, green and shimmery gold as well as flower prints, sequins and combos of cotton and jersey or jersey and leather. The almost excessive use of sheer materials brought out the edgy, naughty side of the collection and balanced the more romantic floral and blush pieces. For his anniversary, Ostertag managed to put forward a collection which is cohesive and individual, having a little something of everything.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Stefan Strumbel x Warsteiner
Artist Stefan Strumbel has made a name for himself in the international art scene with fans like Karl Lagerfeld. However, his work is heavily influenced by his roots in the German city of Offenburg. Tradition and the paradigm of 'home' are the subjects of his work, which is a provocative, street art inspired exaggeration of cult objects. He has stated that “home is the hardest drug in the world.”
Strumbel has found his “Partner in Crime” in the traditional German brewery Warsteiner, which is celebrating it's 260th anniversary this year. The collaboration saw Stefan Strumbel create a funky installation for the tenth art Karlsruhe, which showcased larger-than-life helium skywalkers emblazoned with old and new works by the artist. The pieces ranged from bright neon crucifixes and skull printed cuckoo clocks to armed squirrels and Strumbel's claim “What the fuck is Heimat?!” Additionally, limited edition goody bags were handed out to visitors, filled with artsy gimmicks and a special edition “Partners in Crime” bottle of Warsteiner designed by Strumbel. The artist will stay with the brewery a little longer, as they have more projects in the pipeline. Cheers!
Padiglione Crepaccio at yoox.com
With La Biennale's 55th International Art Festival in full swing, the eyes of the art world are firmly locked on Venice, but through the seductive glamour of the festivities, the local artists of the city can lay overlooked. Il Crepaccio, a cosy restaurant in Milan, has made it's name as the atypical launch pad for budding creative talent, known for placing the seemingly unattainable art world within reach of both artists and admirers. For the duration of the festival, the venue has joined forces with yoox.com to extend its initiative to the wider world.
Padiglione Crepaccio presents The Venetians. The project shines a light on a group of ten young natives by launching an online platform for their work, alongside biographies and interviews ito explain the concepts by the artists themselves. Coinciding with the city's venerated festival, pieces will be available to view and to purchase until the close of La Biennale in November.