BALLY AW16 Campaign
Emerging London based photographer Jack Davison captures youthful eccentricities in the BALLY AW16 campaign, featuring a dynamic cast of eight models, including the Guinevere Van Seenus, Finnlay Davis and Dutch model Ina Maribo Jensen. The images portray the nature of an artists’ studio in the 70s. As Davison seizes the individual and different personalities, he is also able to unite them in their spirit, prominent in current and future BALLY collections. “What fascinates me about Jack’s work is his ability to capture intimacy in his portraits; because it is about real emotions," Design Director Pablo Coppola says of the collaboration with the young photographer, while Davison reveals; “I trust in the moment, go into the situation and let myself be guided by my instincts.”
Swarovski Member of Fashion Council Germany
Swarovski is the newest member of The Fashion Council Germany, which was founded last year to be an advocate for and mentor to German fashion designers. One of these designers is Vienna-born Marina Hoermannseder, who has in three years gained fans like singer Lady Gaga with her orthopaedic corsets. Marina’s latest collection included a corsage and skirt embellished with crystals, which was made through a collaboration with six other designers who created a special collection using Swarovski crystals. The Council’s Chairman is Vogue Editor-In-Chief Christiane Arp, who said; “It is important to help design talent get more attention. We are delighted to have the support of Swarovski for our talent development initiative.”
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
Karl Lagerfeld has created collages mixing up emoticons, pearls and coloured fabrics for the CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 campaign. The impulsive images reflect a modern energy with models adorned in pearls, styled with riding boots and the BOY CHANEL bag. Sophistication is added through its knitwear, embellished with eyelets and badges. The brands classic attitude collides with a new, vibrant creative direction. On this decision Lagerfeld told WWD; “I was tired of girl holding a bag. – I wanted to do something else that we have never done before.”
Tim Coppens Spring/Summer 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 is for Belgian designer Tim Coppens influenced by traditional Japanese dress, with references as the incorporated judo-style belts and kimono-inspired prints on bomber jackets. The collection also references Coppens’ 90s upbringing and the skate scene with colour blocked sports gear, yet sticks to Coppens’ signature tailoring and use of technical fabrics. Introduced in this collection is Tim Coppens original footwear, a line of structurally cut, leather sneakers. This will be available from next spring.
Diesel Black Gold FW16 Campaign
Mica Arganaraz and Louie Johnson feature in the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, shot by Karim Sadli. Creative director Andreas Melbostad embraces Diesel Black Gold’s urban approach in the images and reveals, “Mica and Louie, through the lens of Karim, convey a strong yet understated message of individuality and confidence.” The duo is dressed in iconic outerwear pieces of the new collection, including the women’s biker cape and the men’s utility parka. Furthermore we see a mix of leather and quilted nylon.
Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux’ Dior Haute Couture collection is predominantly in black and white, which is a reflection of their relationship; it represents history and modernity and while opposites, when together it creates something greater than apart. Dior’s iconic Bar suit, tailored jacket and full skirt see the Autumn/Winter 2016/16 collection go back to its origins. The skirt was the starting point, after which Meier and Ruffieux started experimenting with the lining, draping and pleating of evening dresses and skirts.The only colour visible is gold as embroidery, which is inspired by raw art and the works of César and Claude Lalanne.
MBFW: l'VR Isabel Vollrath
Inspired by the Russian “Les Ballets Russes”, on the third day of Berlin Fashion Week we see l’VR Isabel Vollrath’s runway show. Isabel Vollrath is a Berlin Weissensee School of Art graduate, with as main focus showing that fashion is more than just gear. It’s an art form, portrays a culture, visualises a way of thinking. The collection is called “Sacre du Printemps”, which loosely translates as the Ceremony of Spring. Forest sounds start the show, with birds peacefully singing in the background, which is followed by a beat and the first looks layered with tulle. Its colour palette began with pastels and developed into coral and deep navy, while including white and black. It all sits together nicely through the use of oriental prints.
Fondation Louis Vuitton To Exhibit ICONS OF MODERN ART
ICONS OF MODERN ART – The Shchukin Collection will be exposed at the Fondation Louis Vuitton later this year, paying tribute to Russian art collection Sergei Shchukin. Moscow-born Shchukin was an industrialist before getting involved with Parisian art evolutions, like the impressionist, post-impressionist and modern movements, which resulted in becoming one of the most radical art collection of the 20th century. Thanks to contribution of the Hermitage Museum and Pushkin Museum, this exhibition will be able to showcase 130 art pieces from Shchukin’s archive, including works of Monet, Picasso and Van Gogh, along many more. The exhibition, generally curated by Anne Baldassari with help from Shckukin’s grandson André-Marc Delocque Fourcaud, has a culture programme encircling, focussing on dance and music and the artistic relationship between France and Russia commencing early last century, which is still relevant today.
The exhibition will run from October 22nd until February 20th 2017.
Atelier Versace Fall 2016
The Fall 2016 Couture shows are happening in Paris right now, where Versace showed its Atelier Fall 2016 collection. “I love the elegance, sophistication and drama of today’s woman. This is a collection that reveals a woman’s power, and her allure”, Donatella Versace reveals of her latest show. The collection portrays elegance and it experiments, with volume and new ways of draping. Evening gowns are paired with tailored trousers and has a certain fluidity to them, as the pleats create a strong silhouette against the body. Jackets graciously fall off the shoulder, the cashmere evening coat is freely embellished with Swarovski crystals and styled on the feet are high heels, detailed with knotted bows of leather falling over the toes.
MBFW: Marina Hoermanseder S/S 2017
Dressing her models in three-dimensional garments, Marina Hoermanseder’s S/S 2017 collection at the Berlin Fashion Week reminds of playing dress-up with dolls. Glossy dresses resemble the perfection found in the bodies of plastic puppets. The finishing dress of the collection is definitely the highlight – it looks like the glossy body of a mannequin, a bare body showing breasts and a belly button. A tiny waist and wide hips lead into a stiff knee-length skirt, scalloped at the back and heavily encrusted with a mix of red and white diamonds. The bejeweled dress and corsets are not the only eccentric extra. Butterfly applications on shiny leather tops and dresses give the impression that butterflies are more drawn to settling on a beautiful dress than on a flower.
Some tops are made entirely out of frilly flower applications. There is a girly and playful feel to the collection. It is an interesting progression from last year’s summer collection. Similar straps and belts are still essential elements of coats and dresses, but this time the skirt made entirely out of straps wrapping around the model's legs is boasting of a powerful pink and neon orange. Fiery red, neon peach and hot pink are combined with baby blues and creme colours. Pleated mini skirts and wide legged 3/4 trousers are key to the collection. Neon collars spice up dress shirts. A shiny bomber jacket in a bright orange offers an option for summery outerwear. The plastic feel of the garments is what makes them stand out.
MBFW: Augustin Teboul S/S 2017
Accompanied by mellow music of a rock band with slow drums, a lingering bass and drawn out vocals, the presentation of the Augustin Teboul S/S 2017 collection is re-imagining mermaids as punk rock princesses at the Berlin Fashion Week. The models' hair is slightly wet and swept back, as it would be after a swim in the ocean. Torn leggings and fish net tights remind of mermaids caught in fishermen’s nets. Frilly applications on hats paired with round sunglasses look like bathing caps. Cut-outs, holes and slashed fabrics give the collection a certain edge, vibing off a careless attitude. A lot of exceptionally short mini skirts and dresses dominate the runway.
Sheer black shirts are worn over leather panties. Leather bodies with frills and mesh tutus remind of a punk rock princess style. A provocative touch is added by models wearing tiny crop tops or nothing at all underneath loose androgynous jackets. As always Augustin Teboul loves to display the dark and grungy side of fashion, and yet again does not stray from the label's favourite colour black, with only a bit of white, blue and red here and there. The black is paired with square patches and patterns of different kinds of sparkles, sequins and studs. There are sparkly scarves and sparkly socks in patent leather loafers – sparkles everywhere. The collection is the perfect androgynous combination of frazzle and dazzle, a glittering glory of grunge.
BERLIN FASHION: IVANMAN SPRING 2017
Designer Ivan Mandzukic started his brand in 2010 and is definitely a force to be reckoned with. Main inspiration for IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2017, shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, is the 80s German film Baghdad Café. The latest IVANMAN collection provides, just as in the film, a collision of modernity, tradition and clashing world views. The garments are styled in layers, with long shirtsleeves poking out of jacket sleeves. The collection has structured jackets, classic cuts in trousers and tops and is contemporary in its choice of colours, as the blush, turquoise and white colour palette give a real sense of spring.
PFW: Dior Homme Spring 2017
The 80s Punk together with the New Wave scene in a modern key. Kris Van Assche fun fair for Dior Homme proposed tailored pieces, sportswear and strong punk elements interconnected in a balance of contrast. Van Assche worked his inspiration from its childhood in Antwerp and the rebellious world of those years. We see tailored jackets combined with relaxed oversized pants together with sleek slim trousers matched with bomber jackets. It's certainly a collection that plays around contradictions and opposites. Classic rigor is subverted by flashbacks of 80s subcultures with a multitude of details entirely made by the artisanal in-house team : pinstripe fray, printed flower embroidery patches and the red thread hand-sew stitching through denim, suits, knitwear, almost as recalling of a statement scar stitching - beautiful and yet painful.
Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
A focus on the new Cavalli tribe and the art of the garments is shown in the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2016 advertising campaign, show by Tim Walker. Dressed in the men’s and womenswear pieces by the brands creative director Peter Dundas, a collection filled with embellished, embroidered and dazzlingly textured pieces. The images portray a sense of youthfulness and sensuality, as the models lay clothed in and nude covered by roses against a minimal background, giving the portraits a bohemian, yet glam rock feel.
PFW: COMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
Rei Kawakubo wanted to tease with the idea of today’s world receiving too much information. Themed after Hans Christian Andersen’s Naked King’ we see the Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, a show filled with transparent items, printed with designs made by Italian company Fornasetti and with messages such as ‘beauty is in the eye’. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collaborated with Nike Dunk style on it’s footwear for the show, a line-up of trainers in different variations of colours.
Our Interview with Ancient Greek Sandal
Keep your eyes peeled for this sandal brand inspired by ancient Greek mythology and architecture, hence the name Ancient Greek Sandal. We met up with the Co-founder and designer of AGS, Christina Martini who started up the business with CEO and Co-Founder Nikolas Minoglou.
What is the philosophy of your brand?
Handmade sandals made from good quality leather in Greece inspired by Ancient Greece. Sandals have a raw yet feminine aesthetic, which would age well with time and wear.
What are the trends for this season that AGS suggest?
Bohemian and embellished lace up sandals with semi precious stones, glass beads, turquoise and corals. In addition to this, we have collaborated with the Mexican brand CARAVANA designing the ‘Tulum Collection’ which are iconic AGS sandals decorated with hand-painted feathers. Our collaboration with LALAoUNIS is also out, a precious collection of six bejeweled styles inspired by the powerful symbol of snake.
Why did you choose the ancient Greek civilization and what is attractive about that?
Because it’s in my blood! At school all Greek students get taught Mythology and Ancient Greek history and I was always fascinated by the visits in museums or archaeological sites. When I was young I wanted to become an archaeologist. Ancient Greek Sandals are inspired by the Ancient Greek mythology, art, architecture, jewelry and everything that is connected with that era. The inspiration is unlimited.
What are the materials you use?
Although the construction is made in Greece, all our raw materials come from Italy. For the uppers we mostly use vegetable tan leather whereas for the insoles and soles we use a thicker skin. For each collection we try to introduce new exciting materials such as the sunbeam snake or pony skin, stamped crocodile but also synthetic materials such as the glitter, fabrics such as the denim for S/S16.
Who are the celebrities that love AGS and what they love about them?
Michelle Williams was the first to wear the sandals in 2012 and since then a lot of actresses have followed, such as Naomi Watts, Anne Hathaway, Diana Kruger, models Gigi Hadid and Gisele Bundchen and singers like Rihanna and Beyoncé. I think like every other woman who wears AGS sandals; they value the simplicity of design, femininity, quality and comfort.
You designed shoes for Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton before setting up your own brand.
What did working for those big fashion houses teach you?
I don’t think that I would have set up my own brand if I didn’t work for these two huge fashion houses. First of all the technical knowledge, a big part of my job was to be at the factories in Italy and follow the making of the prototypes so I got to witness how the most luxurious shoes in the world were made, I learnt the different leather qualities and the shoe constructions. I also learnt a lot from the marketing team how to form a complete shoe collection that makes sense to the customer on the shop floor.
What is the ideal outfit matched with ancient Greek sandals?
Anything really, from a wedding dress to jeans shorts and from a long bohemian kaftan to a little black dress.
In which place in the world do you think AGS fit ideally?
Anywhere the sun shines!
G-Star RAW Research X Aitor Throup
During Paris Men’s Fashion week, G-Star RAW has revealed it’s newest, most leading capsule-collection yet; G-Star RAW Research, in collaboration with artist Aitor Throup. When speaking about the collaboration, Throup explains he began collaborating after realizing the brands success comes from taking risks and questioning traditions of denim. After a few years of working together, naturally the brand and Throup came up with the idea to open a lab and explore new possibilities for all things denim.
Thus creating G-Star RAW Research. Aitor Throup has been working with G-Star on various projects and collections, since becoming its creative consultant back in 2014. This collection explores two points of development in the process of denim, one untreated, RAW denim, one bleached white with nearly no indigo left. The first G-Star RAW Research-capsule collection will be available in limited stores mid-November this year.
Antony Morato Film Premiere
Antony Morato, the contemporary, Italian fashion brand with international and cosmopolitan terms drew attention to the world of cinema. The brand has partnered with L'Uomo Vogue, the reliable source for men's fashion and lifestyle on the short film "We have to be courageous" presented in Milan which also participates on Fashion Film Festival Milano.
The 5-minute short film, produced by K48, tells of the growth of self-consciousness and the desire with a hedonistic expression representing even one's own identity. The conclusion of the film leaves a feeling of uncertainty back as it represents the change and the final separation of an already defined world. The appearance of the Don Giovanni is finally ready, almost as if he would say, "Here I am". The film is directed by Elisa Fuksas and the viewer can watch the exceptional performance of the lead actor Alessandro Roja.
The story approaches the Antony Morato campaign "I am who I am" on a vivid and lively way. The brand, founded by Lello Caldarelli sends a strong message and a claim, addressed to the contemporary man. Without risk of misunderstanding he realizes that he can understand and interpret his own freedom. This requirement is universal and shows more than ever that Antony Morato invites us to it.
MFW: GUCCI SPRING 2017
“We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time.” T.S. Eliot
Alessandro Michele. Bravo. The Gucci Spring/Summer 2017 is as close someone can portray a dream as it gets. The collection portrays travelling, exploring the world, gaining knowledge and coming back to a different ‘home’. The soundtrack feels dreamlike, the runway floor is painted green with snake print, the collection a kaleidoscopic affair. The collection sees Donald Duck embroidered on fitted blazers and floral patterned suits, a merge of modernity and nostalgia.
MFW: SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SPRING 2017
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring 2017 collection is the first one since the departure of Creative Director Massimiliano Giornetti. The design team chose camping as its theme and was influenced by artist Jean Arp, as his colourful drawings were seen throughout the show as printed on ties and blouses. The collection is innovative but sensible, with suits that are contemporary yet classic. The camping theme came through with the use of stylized backpacks, but also hinted at through the use of some earthy colours.
MFW: FENDI SPRING 2017
“Sun and fun”, Silvia Venturini said of the collection post-show. Rebuild is a Mediterranean villa, which results in an airy and fresh feel to the Fendi Spring 2017 collection. The garments’ details are whimsical and dynamic, the colours pleasant and lively. Pequin stripes are incorporated in a new way and the models are styled with travel bags and backpacks which indicated to the fun summer theme. Fendi has introduced its first men’s eyewear collection for this show in collaboration with Safilo.
MFW: PHILIPP PLEIN SPRING 2017
The PHILIPP PLEIN Spring 2017 collection takes it inspiration from American Basketball, complete with stylized basketball shorts and shoes, transitioning into embroidered denim, leather jackets and bombers. The German designer teamed up with Swarovski to embellish the collections sportswear pieces, creating a glam active wear collection. Starting off with hints of orange, the collection develops into solely black and white, and later back to red hues. Rapper Busta Rhymes performed, making it a real authentic PHILIPP PLEIN experience.
Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign
Eddie Redmayne takes centre stage in the new Prada Menswear Fall/Winter 2016 Advertising Campaign. Redmayne, who is one of the of contemporary cinema’s most celebrated actors, is no stranger to immersing himself in historically significant characters. In the new menswear Prada campaign is presented the idea of the present moment itself being as a theatre of history. This idea is performed in a suite of striking portrait allusions. Redmayne, assumes a number of roles - hero, villain, revolutionary - either against a neutral grey background, or a rich red split by a romanticist view of idealized nature. Craig McDean’s pictures invoke 19th century neo-classical paintings, which famously played with surface and depth, illusion and reality. These photographs continue the spirit of the Prada Fall/Winter 2016 Menswear show, which presented an excursus through times past as a reflection on time present. Overall, the result is a contemporary masculinity that aligns worldly travel with intrepid self-knowledge and oblique, original thinking.
Acne Studios Pre-Fall 2016 Collection Available Now
Acne Studios’ Pre-Fall 2016 is available now. Satin slip dresses, plaids in contrasting colours and textures as well as the reaction of fire created in a print of torn paper makes for a vibrant and electric collection. The collection varies from camel pinstripe trousers to orange denim jackets, which gives the opportunity to explore trends and infuse new key pieces to your existing wardrobe. “I’m interested in how groups of kids mirror each other's look and wear certain items for a sense of belonging. When we put these looks together, I wanted to explore that short period where there's that tension between individuality and the group dynamic”, says Creative Director Jonny Johansson, the brands Creative Director.
LC:M Bobby Abley
A Disney-inspired runway. Theme of Bobby Abley’s collection is fictional character Aladdin, making for a fun and exciting show to watch, whilst also reminiscing to your childhood. The collection sticks to Abley’s signature sport style, with the magic carpet as pattern, jumpers and tees printed with enchanted lamps and slogans like ‘put me the right way’. The designer launched his label in 2012 and had his first show two years later scheduled through fashion initiative MAN at London Collections Men. It’s now grown into a well-established and acknowledged brand, which leaves us to say that Bobby Abley is here to stay.
LC:M Phoebe English
Presenting her men’s collection for the first time at LCM goes in true English’ fashion; models sat in a waiting room, sewing patterns on needle-point canvas to keep them busy, until it’s their time to get up and get pictures taken. The collection of all-natural fabrics, shown in the 180 The Strand Presentation Space, is created using a minimal colour palette, mainly including blue, black and white. Phoebe English revealed she is influenced by her boyfriend and male friends, who generally wear stripes, something which is visible in what she describes this romantic-utilitarian collection.
Marc Jacobs’ Resort Collection 2017
MTV logos and studs, bright pink colours and leopard prints. Leave it to Marc Jacobs to take you back to the 1980s in his Resort 2017 Collection. ‘‘We took Fall and made it kitsch and went from Youtube back to MTV’’, the designer, who won a CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award just yesterday, said after the show. Music track playing is of British popband Duran Duran and models were sporting scrunched hair and dark eye make-up, sticking to the overall feeling of 80s punk revival. The collection is loud, bold and feels retro and is refreshing since the 70s trend that has been dominating fashion and retailers over the last few years.
Anthony Vaccarello Fall/Winter 2016 Women's Ready-to-Wear Campaign
Anthony Vaccarello showed his natural seductive vibes in his ready-to-wear collection into black and white advertising featuring the Czech model Eva Herzigova. The designer has been inspired by architectural lines and lingerie hardware and the mood is reflective of the collection's natural femininity. The images, shot in black & white, feature iconic model Eva Herzigova walking in a stud farm, outside Paris. For the Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear campaign, Anthony Vaccarello collaborates once again with the Dutch fashion photographer duo Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The styling is by Alastair McKimm and it is the third season the designer and the two men are collaborating.
Teva-Han Kjobenhavn Sandal
The Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal has arrived, combining the almost contrasting philosophies of the two brands - the practical, everyday wear of Teva matching the runway aesthetics of the latter. The results are striking. Teva has already collaborated with the brand at Copenhagen Fashion Week for two seasons, and this creative partnership is flourishing. Mixing Teva’s outdoor look with a runway brand creates a unisex, distinctly Danish design. Han Kjobenhavn, wanting to maintain their trademark minimalism, has made the footwear monochrome, and are said to be inspired by the local football clubs of their youth - giving the shoes a nostalgic appeal. Available now in HK’s New York, Paris, Copenhagen and online stores, the Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal is a distinctive, breathable piece for summer.
Gucci Menswear Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017
Gucci has a fresh and youthful approach on this Pre Spring/Summer Cruise 2017 collection.
Alessandro Michele reinvented the house by taking snippets of its past, mostly from its heydays in the 70s, and reworking them into something that feels both reverential of their origins but also distinctly neoteric.
The collection was unique, distinctive, and unforgettable. The clothes had the compulsorily trinity needed to satisfy the social media saturated consumers of today. The retro style remains on the Menswear collection and the colours are bright with red, burgundy, green and blue to conquer on this collection while the patterns have stripes, animal print, chequer and floral.
Chanel Cruise Collection 2017 Presented in Cuba
Hundreds of fashionistas in vintage convertible cars filled Paseo de Prado to watch Karl Lagerfeld making history with presenting his summer creations on the first ever fashion show on the island. Beach colours and souvenir T-shirts as well as optic white Broderie anglaise and summer tweed suits in lighter weight fabrics were some of the collection’s pieces. Lagerfeld was inspired by the ‘cultural richness and opening up of Cuba’ showing on the collection cabanas patterns and Chanel’s characteristic jackets in many colours while the Panama hats were the main accessorize of the show. Drummers, dancers and Karl Lagerfeld himself emerged to get the party started on the boulevard, as models jumped back into the convertible cars for the Insta-opportunity of a lifetime. Chanel gave every visitor a guide book and allowed them to get out and explore the country’s rich culture.
Ulay at MOT International
One year after the idea found footing in the pages of ZOO Issue 47, the life-size collages of Ulay will now take the form of a physical exhibition. Staged at the MOT International in Brussels, Anagrammatic Bodies presents a series of life-size collages: fragmented full-body compositions which merge the figures of models who make up a mix of gestures, genders and generations. In many ways, this new series can be regarded an extension of the founding values that rendered Ulay a luminary of 1970s photography, his idiosyncratic stare an inadvertent appraisal of identity, but an inevitable one, at that. Ulay’s artistic awareness was ignited in early childhood, exposed in them most immediate sense to the atrocities of World War II. His ‘anti-aesthetic’ is one salvaged from the ruins of his environment; the loss of his father in early childhood, together with his mother’s subsequent social withdrawal, imposed on Ulay the charge to tether his own upbringing, establishing an identity through his smoothing of the splinters. In a quite sinister instance of child’s play, the dismemberment and consequent reassembly of a sparrow – innocently slain at the hands of he and his friends – would unwittingly divine a direction for Ulay’s formative future output. His Anagrammatic Aphorisms of the mid-70s segmented and then pieced together the performative traits of his character, a visceral dissection of the social, sexual roles of individuals outlined as ‘the other’, finding subjects in the transvestite and transsexual subcultures of Amsterdam, and more often than not, himself. Ulay’s evocative application of the human body as an articulation of identity holds as much meaning then as it does today – his reshuffled female figures immortalized in the pages of ZOO last year pointing to the collective tacit strength of character. Now installed at Brussels’ MOT International gallery as part of Ulay’s Come On exhibition, their life-size proportions prevail with an indomitable power.
Come On will be on show at the MOT International, Brussels, from 12th May – 16th July 2016.
Kour Pour's Onnagata in Berlin
At Berlin's Gnyp Gallery, artist Kour Pour intersects Europe's fascination with Japanese culture with the art themes of fragility, instability and deconstruction. What at first sounds like a mismatched mixture inevitably makes sense in the artist's latest display “Onnagata”, presented at the Berlin gallery from April 24th onwards. The title is taken from the Japanese word used to describe male kabuki actors playing female roles in Japanese theatre. It stands as a metaphor for the shifting of meaning inhabited by tectonic plates, which also play a significant role in the exhibition's DNA. Pour applied the laborious, physical and ritualistic process of making tectonic paintings, inspired by volcano maps used by the Japanese Geological survey. The result is a range of artworks that allude to Japanese Ukiyo-e prints, an art form that already fascinated the likes of Van Gogh, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec. The works share a visual resemblance with contemporary abstraction embedded in an European and American tradition. With Onnagata, Kour Pour brilliantly links a Japenese manufacturing process with an aesthetic rooted in Western culture. It's a connection that sets a spark, like a volcano erupting. If we were Kour Pour, we would have been inspired, too.
Versus Versace Fall 16
With its Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Versus Versace has unleashed a collection that is marked by toughness and an almost invincible spirit. Revisited camouflage prints, zip-up bombers, coats and cargo pants define the season for both men and women and embody the strong attitude that lies beneath this collection. For women, Versus plays with tomboy toughness by including loose fit jeans and flat ankle boots in the range. As camouflage is reimagined with the Versus lion head, the camo shirt meanwhile becomes the new city essential for the man. Both lines include pieces with a fierce attitude, such as a fur-collared blouson in menswear or a diamond slashed lingerie top for women. The urban conquest has been a sub-theme for a number of collections these past season and this collection sees Versus Versace join the trend wagon. Whether you need to fight the city jungle or just want to top off your fearlessness – Versus Versace is the gear to chose.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2016
Even though there were eclectic patterns, bright colors and even a glossy, red coat in it, the latest Valentino Fall collection is still a soft one. There just was a certain tender vibe to it that let the models shine in a calm light, presenting a collection that lends a hand to those run over by the fast pace of see now-buy now fashion. Even though there were these drop-out pieces, the collection is still defined by pastel tones, earthy and soothing colors and feminine, romantic silhouettes. There are poufy ballet skirts cut up into layers, floating dresses that hug the body like a comforting friend, and big collared coats that are very in line with this season's trend, but also a shield from its hasting characteristics. On its beginning, the collection nevertheless voices some harsh tones, with black looks and loose outlines creating a mysterious atmosphere. Luckily, the calm tone keeps the lead for the rest of the collection. Face it, we all need some down-time from fashion's headspin once in a while. How good to know that Valentino is here for us.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016
A trip inside the mind of Karl Lagerfeld must feel like an hourlong guided tour through the world's biggest museum. His creative mind, or the ones behind it, is like an infinite archive with multiple crossings, shortcuts and junctions. Therefore, it is no surprise that even after decades, the maestro still finds a way to put a spin on the very, very classic brand that is CHANEL. Still, a CHANEL presentation these days sometimes holds more surprise in the setting than in the fashion on display. This time, though, Lagerfeld stepped away from themes and backdrops and onto the “real” runway. On there, he showed classic CHANEL elements, from tweed-tops to tartan trousers, and one everlasting classic accessory: the impeccable, traditional CHANEL pearl necklace, worn in multiple layers on numerous looks. Topped off with a French twist on a bowler hat, it's maybe the accessories that deem this collection contemporary. However, the choice of colors also checks off everything that is on the line for this season: starting off with shades and combos of pink, the collection then moves onto dark blues and greys, to a range of beige and nude tones, only to end with a – what else- classic rendition of black-and-white looks. That trip to Lagerfeld's mind really must be quite the voyage. Where do we sign up?
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2016
When a Creative Director departs his position at a well renowned fashion house, there is a certain fear that lingers in the air prior the presentation of the first collection without him/her. This was most likely the case at Lanvin's latest fashion show, where the gathering crowd seemed to hold their breath before the first foot was set on the runway. It was the debut reveal since the leaving of Alber Elbaz and certainly marked the start onto new paths and into new directions. These are led by a collective of designers that for the time being has taken over the seat left by Elbaz. What they presented was a collection defined by symbolic elegance, embodied by high-necked garments alluding to ruffled blouses of past eras and a broad spectrum of cuts and fabrics, ranging from 80s-cut, asymmetric shimmer tops to sheer, double layered lavender dresses. There are a handful of paths Lanvin could set upon, for this collection has no distinctive one to itself. There were ruffle-inserted dresses with floral print patterns, but also beaming golden trench coats and lacy ensembles. It seems almost as if the customer herself could select the direction of Lanvin - which prompts us to ask: what choice would you make?
Fred Perry x Raf Simons SS16
For all those that wondered what Raf Simons might turn to after his Dior departure, Fred Perry has just delivered an exquisite answer. After rekindling their cooperation in 2013, the brand and Belgian designer have since featured more capsule collections, the latest one dressing the season of Spring/Summer 2016. Shot in a blurry aesthetic, the new campaign pictures show a sporty, contemporary collection that focuses on the look of stripes and v-lines. Perry's and Simons' collaborative work is a modernist approach to Striped Pique Shirts, Zip Front Chevron Pique Shirts, Insert T-shirts and Sweaters. Combining classic colors with flashing inserts, the collection is a mix and match of a modern attitude and yet another spin on the past. The wearer is seen a man in motion and stand out styles like wider cut Chevron Insert T-shirt adjust to that effortlessly. Go for the red-inserted pieces on a bright day or take the more classic route with beige-blue combinations. Not only the wearer seems to be on the move, but so is the designer. Raf Simons leaves the world in excitement for his next projects - and we've got the feeling that this one was just the start.
Prada Women F/W 2016
On February 25th in Milan, Prada's F/W 2016 womenswear collection had you reminisce immediately. Contrary to other collections, though, one does not think back to past decades or centuries, but just to one month ago, when Prada presented its menswear collection. It seems the leading theme this season that the menswear collections were somewhat a preparation to the womenswear designs. Or, for want of a better word, the womenswear designs are their continuation. However you'd like to put it, Prada's latest designs pick up elements from menswear, such as the unmistakable sailor hats and eclectic pattern mix. Especially the latter is striking, for the list to enumerate all patterns used by Prada would be far too long. Another key element to this collection is the waist-slimming belt that completes almost every look. Recalling medieval designs and lacing, the accessory enforces a hourglass silhouette, a contrast to the mainly loose silhouettes displayed by Miuccia Prada's colleagues this season. It is as if the laced design unites all 52 looks, whether they in themselves recall nautical elements, tribal art or graphic prints (yes, all in one collection). We wouldn't know how to describe it except for “very Prada”. Take a look at the collection, and you'll surely understand. Grazie, Miuccia.
Photos: Monica Feudi.
Emporio Armani F/W 16
Emporio Armani’s latest Fall/Winter collection consists of one thing: consistency. In days where coherent collections are long gone, Giorgio Armani presented a range that sees each item blend with the next like the graphic blocks in a tetris game. In fact, graphics such as the popular video game seem to have been an inspiration for maestro Armani. Triangles, circles, squares, featured in neon and pastel colors printed or sewed on black, remind of 90s tapestries and sticker embellishment. Armani transfers these into high-end ready-to-wear pieces that fit both the office and the dinner gala easily. For the Italian brand, it pays off working piece by piece, square by square, stripe by stripe. The result is next level. Whether at Tetris or at fashion, you decide.
Pictures: Yannis Vlamos.
FENDI Fall/Winter 2016
When Fendi announced that at their F/W 2016 show, two life-size furry FENDIRUMI monsters would greet viewers, little did one know that their fluffy fur would actually transfer itself onto the clothing. The FENDIRUMI are the brand’s iconic bag charms that were introduced in two new versions alongside the collection at Milan Fashion Week. As mentioned, that particular collection also didn’t hold back on fur. The fluffy material is the main player in this season’s designs and used in the making of coats, vests and even handbags. For those who don’t ride on the fuzzy train, Fendi presented exquisitely tailored garments, often tight at the waist in an overall loose silhouette and adorned with ruffles at top or bottom. Next to striped patterns and dark-on-dark looks, baby blue is sprinkled through the collection like colour splatters on a painting. Ruffled boots, bags, yes, even the furry coats were designed in the iridescent colour, making the perfect match to the pink fur coat that was presented at Gucci’s show just one day earlier. The Italian’s know how to do it, and even two life-size monsters can’t distract us from it.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
They say all good things come in threes, and with Louis Vuitton, three seems to be the lucky number. Their latest Pre-Fall collection stands on three major pillars that are core to the Maison’s designs: neo-classic, elevated sportswear and the dream adventure. Beneath these summarizing definitions lays a collection that forms a complete wardrobe playing on androgyny and the fluidity of style. With Louis Vuitton, all things are fluid, such as the video shot by campaign photographer Karim Sadli, defined by energetic motion and movements. Such fluidity is supported by the actual designs that come across as confident monochrome looks. Color is not a theme in this collection, with only few sprinkled inserts highlighting shoulders or hips. Nevertheless, Vuitton plays with contrasts in tartan dresses, sporty legwear and a block-striped coat. According to the fashion house, this collection’s interpretation depends upon the point of view and personal prism of its wearer. And that’s the best thing about fashion: your wardrobe is your adventure. Welcome to Pre-Fall.
DKNY RTW Fall 2016
What clearly stayed in mind from DKNY’s latest Fall/Winter collection were the oversized coats, made from shiny, synthetic materials and featuring a voluminous shape that seems to be very much on the rise this season. Their floor-length design, paired with evenly oversized lacing, expressed a ruling confidence that left the viewer in admiration for Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the designer duo revolutionizing the DKNY brand from the core. However, even if the oversize shape is an undeniably strong force in this collection, not everything was out of proportion. Osborne and Chow made free assembly their friend and presented cut-out shirts with varying lengths, dresses not only with fabric but shape combinations and a contrasting material mix. Contrast could also be detected in the color palette, which saw heavy dark tones confronted with sparkling red and white. While this all may trick you into a very serious state of mind, the designers proved to have not forgotten about the splash of humor every fashion collection needs: whereas in the 90ies, DKNY was known for sprawling their logo across their items, the new designs simply read “Insert Logo Here”. Confidence, charisma and humor – if this collection was a person, we’d sure like to be introduced.
Hood by Air RTW Fall 2016
If you’re looking to find Hood by Air’s latest Fall/Winter designs, have a look at the baggage claim at your local airport. At New York Fashion Week, models found their runway turned into a baggage band when their garments were adorned with tags usually tied to suitcases at the drop-off. Another top featured the suitcase plastic wraps also formerly known from the departure area, only this time turned into a bold fashion statement. To be fair, these references were the only ones alluding to flight traffic. If not for the title, Hood by Air’s collection is more a political art statement than Ready-to-wear fashion. Designer Shayne Oliver once again crossed gender borders, made shapes and classic cuts irrelevant and boots, either oversized or shiny and red, the center of footwear. Hood by Air’s latest designs are refreshingly rebellious and creative in a surrounding where rebellion often means changing the direction of a seam. Needless to say, if we found the collection at the baggage claim, there’s no way we would return it to the lost-and-found office.
Tommy Hilfiger RTW Fall 2016
In Fall 2016, Tommy Hilfiger has the sails set. His latest collection, presented in an extravagant set at New York Fashion week, sets off to the sea with maritime inspirations in all their nautical beauty. Now, it would be too easy to just restyle sailor archives to appropriate their look for 2016. Hilfiger on the contrary made his nautical references visible, but still wearable on dry land. Stripes pop up on various garments and materials, from shiny tops to floating dresses, sometimes presented in the traditional sailor manner, sometimes only hinted with a few stripes at the bottom. Classic navy embellishments also made the cut and can be found on coats, blazers and even sheer dresses. For those who want to experience the ride on the sea in a more graphic way, the designer created repetitive patterns for all kinds of garments, showing small drawings of boats, anchors, dancing sailor, wales and more. On the runway, new brand ambassador Gigi Hadid, who opened the show in a shifty beige dress and closed it as the gold-glittering sea travel princess, fronted the show. Full speed ahead!
Capital Ride: Berlinale 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, jump on the wagon; it’s time to set off for Berlinale! From February 11, in a spread of 10 days, the German capital will once again be home to the finest in moving images. From international blockbusters to independent movies, the international film festival offers everything you’d want to watch. In fact, the programme is that various that even native Berliner’s will find their head in a spin. Thus, jump on ZOO’s film ride now and catch up with what is not to miss at this year’s Berlinale:
Chi-Raq © Parrish Lewis
Stop 1: Chi-Raq “Chi-Raq” is a modern take on Aristophanes’ play “Lysistrata” and stars a variety of high-profile celebrities such as Mariah Carey’s ex-husband Nick Cannon, Angela Bassett, Jennifer Hudson and Samuel L. Jackson. The plot: in violence-driven Chicago, a female movement aims to shut down outbursts through a sex-strike. On display i.e. at the Berlinale Palast, Tue. 16.02., 10 PM
Hail, Caesar! © Universal Pictures
Stop 2: Hail, Caesar! Next stop: Rome! Well, in mind. More like Hollywood. With “Hail, Caesar!”, cult-directors Jonathan & Ethan Coen peek behind the coulisses of 1950s Hollywood. George Clooney mimes the kidnapped Caesar-actor while Josh Brolin is the studio-boss that strives to keep everything under control. Need we say more? On display i.e. at the Friedrichstadt-Palast, Thur. 11.02., 8.30 PM
Midnight Special © Ben Rollstein/Warner Bros. Entertainment/Ratpac-Dune LLC.
Stop 3: Midnight Special Next up on the film ride is a movie that accumulates everything: father-and-son road trip, the exploration of sect-culture, religion and politics in one – not to forget the subcultures that come with the American province. “Midnight Special” stars former ZOO-coverstar Michael Shannon, Kirsten Dunst and Joel Edgerton. On display i.e. at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Sat. 13.02., 11 AM.
Maggie's Plan © John Pack / Hall Monitor, Inc.
Stop 4: Maggie’s Plan As part of their Panorama programme, the Berlinale presents a movie about 30-year old Maggie, who after invitro fertilization meets the love of her life. Naturally, the patchwork family life doesn’t work as it’s supposed to do. Starring Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke and Julianne Moore. On display i.e. at Zoo Palast 1, Sun., 21.02., 9.30 PM.
Stop 5: Goat How is extreme masculinity built these days? Andrew Neels’ “Goat” explores the violent side. 19-year old Brad does not only experience violence after a robbery, but also when entering a student fraternity at university. Starring James Franco, Nick Jonas and Ben Schnetzer. On display i.e. at CinemaxX7, Fri. 12.02., 10 AM.
Final Stop: Culinary Cinema & Berlinale Goes Kiez Next to all artistic endeavors, the final stop on this film ride focuses on the Berlinale special projects. One of them is the culinary cinema, showcasing 11 film features about the relation between food, culture and politics. Additionally, since 2010, the Berlinale hosts the “Berlinale Goes Kiez” programme, which moves the flying red carpet to small cinemas around Berlin on seven evenings, each one having a renowned personality as its patron.
434 films, 10 days and numerous red carpets filled with celebrities – it is impossible to swish through the Berlinale in just one ride. Consider this festival a hop-on, hop-off travel. You can’t fathom everything. Even if you just get a slight idea of it – we’re sure it will strike you just as much. Everyone get off, please!
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
SIKI IM F/W 2016
For their latest F/W collection, label SIKI IM dug deep. Very deep. Deep in thoughts, deep in spirits, deep into philosohpy. Numerous questions lie beneath their latest designs, such as the evaluation of monsters and vampires. Is death the end? According to SIKI IM, it is certainly not. Our fear of being alone, fear of rejection, yes, in the end, the fear of our very selves is also a part of the thought-out inspiration to the IM 2016/17 collection. Naturally, these objections transfer themselves onto the clothing. A color palette of black, oxblood and aubergine draws a very clear allusion to mythic, spiked-teeth creatures. Fabrics from Italy are textured and rich, meaning luxurious cashmere (this season's material No. 1) and pants, woolen car-coats and blazers are combined with architectural leather in a variety of shapes. Furry tops and bottoms are not only monstrous in a good way but also functional for a cold winter. Along with the new designs, SIKI IM also showcases its extension line DEN IM. The prints featured in this collection were inspired by the German art and architecture school Bauhaus and the eponymous post-punk band. Linking both collections, images from Im's favorite Vampire movies were also printed on various garments. In the end, who isn't fascinated by it? The mysterious, the mythical, the dangerous, the tragic? We all have it in us. Just a matter of time until the night will let it out.
CTM Festival in Berlin
This week sees the midpoint of Berlin’s CTM festival, an international event for “Adventurous Music and Related Visual Arts”. This extensive title works quite well as an all-round description of what the 8-day festival has in store. The programme will line up performances by artists such as rapper Le1f, performing Thursday night, next to exhibitions, concerts and a discourse programme. 2016 already presents the 17th edition of the festival, which carries a new theme with each edition. This year, “New Geographies” is set to explore the collapsing borders and changing topographies in our world. Blurring lines in worlds such as gender and ethnicity, globalization and physically bound cultural identities find examination through the works of artists, special projects, commissioned works, lecturers and contributors. Dance or discuss the night away in Berlin this week – always on the verge of change. Sounds exciting, doesn’t it?
Diesel Black Gold SS16 Ad Campaign
Diesel Black Gold has revealed their new SS16 advertising campaign, a call to he brand’s irreverent and contemporary spirit. French photographer Karim Sadli shot models Lexi Boling and Timur Muharemovic in Downtown Los Angeles, a urban and metropolitan location that fits the collection like a glove. Conceived by Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, the campaign presents key pieces such as the Type 2614 extra-long jeans, a design that through its exaggerated length creates a crushed effect, worn by Muharemovic. Boling meanwhile sports the season’s signature overalls and a leather jacket detailed with metal grommets and whipstitches. With this campaign, Diesel shows once again that it doesn’t take much to impress. If only it would be so easy for everyone.
Givenchy Men's F/W 16 & Couture S/S 16
At the latest Givenchy presentation, viewers found themselves caught somewhere between a game of Tetris and the inside of a gum bubble. In Paris, the French fashion house chose to reveal both their menswear designs for F/W 16 and the couture designs for SS 16 in one captivating show. Ricardo Tisci's theme for this collection apparently was freedom, which he chose to express in a variety of designs that weren't at all as monochrome as the seating. For the menswear, Tisci alternated between sharp silhouettes with classic outerwear and more layered, colorful designs. Cobra-flagged knitwear was seen next to tribal inspirations and fringed coats; embellished collars on jackets and coats went along with college sweaters and pinstripe combinations. The couture marked a welcome contrast to all that. Sheer dresses had their parts as much as expressive dotted designs. Lace and other thin materials gave the collection a soft touch, whereas tight bandeaus in a wrapped style suggested a confident couture look. For his latest presentation, Ricardo Tisci's bubble might have been pink as gum, but we sure do enjoy it in there.
Sandro F/W 16
For a fashion designer, a collection can be like a play. Different actors, different looks, different parts of the play – in other words, acts. French fashion label Sandro took this as a chance to divide their latest collection, their play, if you will, into such different acts. The first one throws it way back to 1980s Berlin, where anarchical urban structures drained romance through the industrializing reality. This message translated into fabric calls for a denim jacket pattern realized with suede, combined with yellow rollneck jumpers. Act two introduces a series of silk shirts, emblazoned with a chain print, to be worn with tapered trousers that are cut off at the ankle and feature a generous hem. A theatrical play would maybe suggest a break by now, but Sandro dives right into the final act: suits with wider collars break on boots and are complemented with black-and-wide check motifs on mohair knits. As the curtain falls, the label presents the last look formed by leather trousers and long cashmere coats in a variety of colors. Applause!
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture SS16
Giorgio Armani is defying gravity. With his latest couture collection for Armani Privé, the designer mounted on a cloud of silk and organza and casually flew away. Ruffles define the new designs along with flowing silhouettes, corresponding to the illusion of constant movement. They suggest waves, like the sea stirred by the wind, an expression that is even found in the fashion show’s hairstyles. While the first part of the collection transfers these ideas into business-like ensembles, the finale is formed by a collection of ball gowns that illustrate the idea of a contemporary, high-class princess. Key colors in this collection are a variety of lilacs, supporting a young and soft attitude. Seems like Armani’s cloud is a pretty nice place. And whatever it takes, we will get on there, too.
Nobi Talai F/W 16/17
The third collection for designer Nobieh Talalei borrowed elements from nomad tribes, an obvious source of inspiration. What could have become stuck in a concept turned into wearable pieces, made from cozy fabrics coincidentally perfect for combating the harsh climate of Berlin’s streets outside: Japanese leather and plush shearling, otherwise used most notably by heritage toy manufacturer Steiff. For FW 16/17 Talalei showcased capes abound, such as a woolen cape vest supposed to be tied around the body, draping asymmetrically around female form. The look invoked futuristic desert planet associations just as much as a nostalgic longing for freedom on the tramp. Layering and folklore vibes find balance in crafted designs in solid neutrals and jewel tones for a polished, modern collection with melancholy notes of orientalism.
Fashion Designs presented by Shih Chien University
Traditionally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin trickles out over the course of its final day, when editors and buyers abandon Berlin and move on to the next shows. As the students of Shih Chien University proved with their FW 16/17 was that is without a question their loss. The Taiwanese University long holds the title of one of the world’s best design schools. In walk two of Yu-Qi Zheng’s models with winged shoulders and pompous headpieces. Far eastern design elements made an appearance on Yi Ma’s designs in the shape of Buddha prints, others incorporated Asian letters or ritualistic accessories, gaping a divide between manga-esque looks and deities. These students by no means over conceptualize their work or cater to cosplayers rather than fashionistas. Each collection is more haute – couture than comic con, begging the question of what is next for this talented bunch.
Paul Smith F/W 16/17
As a designer, Paul Smith is fond of the past. The days and decades that are long gone are an everlasting inspiration to him, and with each collection, Smith manages to transform the spirit of “back then” into a fashion statement applicable to today. For the Fall/Winter menswear collection, Smith once again embraced his past and wove it into new designs. Stripes recur in cashmere knitwear of tailored coats and find their sartorial climax in more-than-elegant lurex pinstripes. Paul Smith, though, never designs without a bit of cheekiness: Dinosaur prints reference his use of digital printing, while lip-shaped fastenings on belts and peace sign charms are a link to the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s. Fun aside, this collection's centerpiece introduces itself in multiple ways: the Epscom coat comes with sheepskin and cashmere and both single and double-breasted. Combined with often flared trousers and heeled leather boots, the “throwback” is complete. Now that we think about it, saying that Paul Smith is just fond of the past might be quite the understatement. He adores it. And we do, too.
Dorothee Schumacher FW 16/17
Schumacher’s FW 16/17 collection is clearly inspired by Stacy Perlata and his Z-Boys and Bones Brigade, the laid-back and most of all free attitude of late subculture. The label has been around for years, rooted in commercial chic and has so far been renowned for business attire. In the latest offering juxtapositions of smart and casual, freedom and roots are painstakingly obvious. For Dorothee Schumacher skater gear element mixed in with romantic florals and classic cuts appear audacious at first. However, dissonance creates interest in the most positive of ways: Bermuda shorts with suspenders paired with delicate blouses, sporty stripes on mixed mille fleur, baggy pants and glitter shirts, stern woolen coats covering romantic dresses carry the Schumacher DNA over to 2016. Folklore-esque garter belts, cutouts and transparency add a youthful layer to the designs. The cherry atop this show was certainly the music by the late David Bowie that set the mood for the show.
Larusmiani F/W 16/17
“The secret of a real man’s style lies in knowing the rules as well as breaking them”. Larusmiani thinks back to founder Gugliemo Miani’s wise words as inspiration for their F/W 16/17 collection. In fact, it is not only inspiration, but key essence to the new Italian designs. Handmade suits are made from fine fabrics such as wool, cashmere and silk – with the twist of occasional blends. Impeccable shirts with embroidered initials are available in cotton flannel and cashmere or printed silk as recognition of the modern and the traditional. Ties with geometric patterns only take a few seconds to be chosen by their wearer. Shoes emphasize the mantra of knowing the rules as well as breaking them: the beaver fur-lined sneaker stands next to the Larusmiani Oxford shoe. Altogether, the collection composes a relaxed Dandy attitude for the Larusmiani man. And to him, we’d sure like to be introduced.
Costume National Homme Fall Collection
The world is under pressure. The fashion world is under pressure. At least according to Ennio Capasa. The lead designer of Costume National took the occurring dangers and threats of our world as an inspiration for his new Fall collection. The result is an assemblage of combat elements, couture bits and both uniform and freedom. With these designs, Capasa also wants to rekindle his connection to music. Quite literally referring to pressure, Capasa found muses in David Bowie and Freddie Mercury and their collaborative hit “Under Pressure”. Now, what does one do to resist? Costume National delivers the perfect gear. Combat multi pocket trousers make for a well-equipped look, squared shoulder jackets and oversize coat create an invincible silhouette and fabrics from faux fur to glitter print show that “fear” is not in store for Costume National. Colors balance between tones from black and navy to shiny greens and neon turquoise. It’s only the brand name that seems unfitting in this collection. This definitely isn’t a costume. It’s an armour.
FENDI F/W Collection 2016
With their latest menswear collection, Fendi went luxurious-but-soft. Or casual-but-elegant. Playful-but-stylish. However you define it, the new collection oozes a feeling of private luxury. The silhouette is soft and comfortable, which helps the wearer glide through the urban frenzy without bumping shoulders. In general, outerwear has found a new, welcoming roominess at Fendi. Knitwear makes us feel like home, with long and loose jumpers keeping warm and droopy scarves draped around the neck. With Fendi, it’s not loneliness but “homeliness” that awaits us: the garments have a relaxed ease; comic strip elements add humor and character. Stolen plaid pieces add a visual rhythm when fused on knitted pieces and felted wool tailoring. Another key element is sheepskin, used in the making of bucket hats and shoppers. It might be “luxurious-but-soft” or “playful-but-stylish”, but actually, with this collection, there are no “buts” needed.
Persian Queen goes Berlin: Lala Berlin at Fashion Week
Berlin Fashion Week whizzed by in a second, but Leyla Piedayesh was there to capture the moment. With her new “Persian Queen goes Berlin” collection, the designer established the connection of live experiences with online content. At Berlin’s meCollectors room, surrounded by celebrities from the music, fashion and acting scene, Piedayesh presented a special video installation with strong visuals. Director Jonas Lindstroem filmed three characters, embodied by model Lina Berg, 12-year-old Louise Constein and Anna von Rueden. In support of the video, Piedayesh also went to search for inspiration in the realms of upcoming German music. Singer Jasper Munk supported the videos with his sounds and was present for a set of 3 acoustic songs at the event. To make the evening even more interactive, the label invented the InstaShoot, a creation to let fans from allover the world take part in the experience with the help of an exclusive mirror installation titled “Mirror Me”. According to Piedayesh, instagram has revolutionized the fashion world and is an important source of inspiration and creativity to her. 3, 2, 1, smile!
Peuterey Studio Collection F/W 16
How to stand out from the crowd is an infinite question. It applies to almost every field of work, of entertainment, of culture. Nevertheless, with their latest collection, Peuterey took on exactly that question. In fact, they question a lot in the fashion business. Along with Federico Curradi's debut designs, the brand has released a movement of “realitytelling”, as opposed to the ongoing frenzy that fashion can sometimes cause. The new Peuterey man is a thinker, a maker, a creator, who is not afraid to get his hands dirty to achieve his goals. Behind this lies a concept of truly deep thoughts – with the goal to highlight two main things: authenticity and purposefulness. Fashion, according to Peuterey, should not be fast, selfish and attention seeking, but should satisfy and be useful to the person wearing it, to let them be theirselves in the best possible way. Therefore, the new collection underlines a promising message of utility to its wearer: parkas and blousons are being rethought with new fabrics, overcoats and duffels have straps to be repurposed into rucksacks and blazers can be used in multiple ways. Patch pockets not only suggest real utility but work as accessories in more ways than one. Classic fabrics are intersected with double-faced, technical and diagonal wools, nylon and gabardine. The color palette comes across as somber, with 50ies inspired accents: charcoal, rust and military greens. If after all, this sounds way too utilitarian to you, don't despair. Purposefulness never meant going out of style. Authenticity never meant being unfashionable. For reference, have a look at Peuterey again.
JIL SANDER Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
London Men’s Fashion Week saw a lot of collections being devoted to the motives of protection, uniformity and military. In Milan, a few designers also presented their take on this theme, JIL SANDER being one of them. By itself, their F/W 16 collection is not a pure military reminiscence, but a metropolitan version of it. There are harnesses crossing the bust but also tailored jackets and capes. The protective effect is certainly shown with voluminous parkas edged in velvet, but bare arms under sleeveless vests also suggest vulnerability. There are ribbed jumpers with patched shoulders, but also city maps on silk shirts, blown into abstract proportion. For a both innovative and strict line like JIL SANDER, it would be too easy to go down the simple line of military inspiration. Even mixing it with urbanity would be insufficient. That’s the twist of JIL SANDER: making simple clothing backed by complex inspiration. Nevertheless: if you wear it, you’ll feel protected, but not shielded. You’re still a metropolitan.
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
Prada Women’s Spring Summer 16 Campaign
Just one week after the release of their latest menswear campaign, defined by vulnerability and relaxed attitudes, Prada has revealed the visuals for the matching womenswear campaign. Steven Meisel shot models Natalia Vodianova, Sasha Pivovarova and Yasmin Wijnaldum indoors in New York. With an equally relaxed attitude as their male counterparts, the three women define undone elegance and a toned-down femininity while still oozing sensuality. As far as that, the attitude is the only thing that comes across as relaxed in this campaign. For the garments, Prada experiments with layering decades of the past to refigure them into modernity. If all, one could define it as conservative eccentricity. The traditional mixed with the contemporary – a blend that has worked well for the Italian fashion house in the past. Nevertheless, they take on new steps with disoriented materials and subversive tailoring. One is uncertain if with Prada, we’re in the past, the present or the future. Another look at the campaign will give you the answer: if anyone can transcend the measure of time, it’s Prada.
Paul Smith LC:M 2016 Presentation
It appears as if these days, recollection is more present than the actual reality. A good handful of designers are going back to the roots, whether it’s in time or geographically. Among these is British designer Paul Smith. After having just launched an exclusive T-Shirt collection with the late David Bowie, Smith released his F/W collection in surroundings that were reminiscent of the past. The designs were on display in a recreation of what was Smith’s first shop, opened in 1970, measuring only nine square meters and being open only two days a week. From there, even though he is essentially British, Smith created his own form of what feels like the American dream: becoming a global fashion business. Fast forward to January 2016, visitors had to cram into nine square meters again to catch a glimpse at the new designs. Colorful bags, inspired by Argentine tango and leather goods inspired by a Mayfair façade recap the designer’s roots in a tangible way. The little “shop” marked a fresh contrast to regular runway presentations and surely had not only Smith himself think of the old days. It’s a shame that it was only a recreation – as we’re sure these nine square meters would be quite successful today, too.
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
COACH Men’s Fall 2016
That’s a wrap! The weekend has whizzed by and the presentations at London Collections: Men Fashion Week are already over. Once again, designers were ready to present their latest, exciting designs packed in a tight show schedule. Among these was New York brand COACH, who filled their catwalk with the impressive spirit of the American Dream – but also of everyday life. Finding the heroic in that - everyday life - was the collection’s central intention. Thus the brand presented a curation of cult wardrobe pieces with details driven by the thought of utility. Nevertheless, Creative Director Stuart Vevers added a more fashionable twist by blowing up proportions to an almost cartoonish size. Furry coats, parkas and jackets come in an oversized shape to be paired with essential pleated trousers. The cherry on top comes in form of some ironic accessories: small dinosaurs front the bags, waving their claws at the admirer. COACH FW 16 is all about embracing the authenticity and character that comes from imperfection. Just like we experience everyday life. Well, maybe minus dinosaurs.
Tiger Of Sweden Men's FW 16
It’s back to the roots for Tiger of Sweden. The brand has mentally retreated to their Swedish base for the FW 16 collection, presented last weekend at London Collections: Men. Supported by the sounds of Swedish band Wheeping Willows, Tiger of Sweden presented 35 multifaceted looks that were equally inspired by Swedish traditions and cold northern winters. The designers focused on the Dalarna region, which is equally as known for its botanic artwork which subsequently also became an inspiration for the collection. Continuing the process of adapting old traditions to modern looks, Swedish artist Jacob Krajcik exclusively reworked the colors of pressed flowers to create a modern folk design. Still, the collections color palette stays rather opaque. Black and grey dominate, with splashes of color coming in soft and seldom. However, the collection’s heart piece is a pair of tuxedos: slim cut, single – and double-breasted and shimmering in a soft peach and apricot. Whether it’s the unqiue culture, the special craftwork or just the warmth given in a cold winter – Tiger of Sweden has shown us that indeed, home is where the heart is.
Givenchy Pre-Fall 16
Ricardo Tisci is at it again: he’s introducing his second decade at French fashion house Givenchy with the Pre-Fall 16 collection. For the look book, the models were shot in the studio, but also on the sidewalks of Berlin. The collection’s designs enfold a potpourri of fabrics, ranging from lace, leather and denim to florally embroidered designs. Not only the fabrics are various but so is the inspiration: Tisci created designs equally inspired by everything, from building sites to bedrooms. The latter even provide two different interpretations: fetish silhouettes are presented next to streetwear pajamas. This also transfers to the very present use of lace: dress hems, collars and applications perform a subtle but sublime kind of sexy. Since all of this is destined for a FALL season, Tisci throws in some warm pieces we all might need – brown fur and pinstripe coats included. How does one chose here? Simple: not at all. More is more, isn’t it?
Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2016 Collection
It’s time for the next Pre-Fall revelation. Next in line is the Italian master of tailoring, Giorgio Armani. Titled “Bohemian Rhapsody”, the new collection features everything from city chic to floral bohemian vibes. That’s right, it’s not all dreamy and mysterious: Armani stays right on track of time while referencing his own unique style with a cheeky wink. The Pre-Fall collection resembles the closet of a very stylish clique, with each member sporting her own, unique look. Very much the latest innovation comes in form of cut-just-above-the-ankle legwear, optionally also featured as cuffed pleated trousers. While certainly this supports a “city” vibe, floral dresses and fuzzy artistic coats bring the splash of bohemia. After all, variety is key. With this collection, Armani also keeps things quite casual – flowing valance dresses are combined with flat boots. If you opt for a more eye-catching look, check out the garments with shiny pinstripes. Finally, the collection is rounded up with the one fabric that should not be missing in a fall collection: elegant velvet. Now, without a doubt, we would love to have a look in that clique’s closet, too.
Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
CHANEL’S City Western SS16 Campaign
To be honest, the fashion world is spinning so fast that sometimes, one has trouble to keep up. Think CHANEL. One minute, we’re still reminiscing about their iconic airport show, the next we’ve already taken off! Destination: Wild West, but also the city. The latest SS16 campaign combines both: CHANEL’s City Western. The French brand premiered the new RTW and accessories campaign with two mini feature films. In it, models Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz take on the empty streets of Brooklyn, New York. Their favorite travel accessory: the “Coco case” cabin case. The main collection’s visuals were shot by Karl Lagerfeld himself and feature ethereal and colorful silhouettes. Montero and Arganaraz wander about in eccentric print combinations, oozing sophistication and effortless coolness. Functional-but-chic accessories that range from the all-essential cabin case to floating silk scarves complete their look. The only thing missing? A stylish lasso, maybe. It’s the Wild West, after all.
Jaguar / Land Rover Opens New Boutique in Munich
Have you ever shopped a car like you shopped a pair of shoes? We didn't think so. The new Jaguar & Land Rover boutique in Munich, Germany, allows you to do so. Opening its doors just this week, the 250 square metre shop lets customers experience both boutiques and rides on a whole new level. Located on the Odeonsplatz in the pulsating Munich city centre, the location hosts varying vehicle exhibitions and provides the Jaguar and Land Rover merchandise. Customers are invited to dive further and further into the brand world of Jaguar & Land Rover. This world can also be experienced in a multimedia programme: like in a recipe, you can customize your car by picking the various equipment to your liking. All of this is completed by a vast program of events: Land Rover experience tours, the Jaguar Driving Academy as well as humanitary projects make the "car shopping“ a lifestyle-plan on its own. And, if after all, you're not completely lost on the road, the Tea - & Coffe-Bar is there to invigorate an extensive shopping trip. Enjoy the ride!
J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall 2016
For his latest Pre-Fall collection, British designer Jonathan Anderson has channeled his inner medieval expert. Most noticeable are the leg-of-mutton sleeves featured on woolen jumpers and a short, bolero-style leather jacket. Combined with voluminous trousers that also recall clothing from past centuries, the designer has successfully transferred our ancestors into the present. These references stand alongside a shiny, tracksuit-inspired combination with blown-up, patched pockets that make room for whatever today’s fashionista has to carry. The collection’s dresses once again are reminiscent of ancient clothing: they remind of habits, only to be transferred into the present by stitched pleats and ruffles. The key accessory comes in form of the “Pierce” bag, that without a doubt lives up to its name: the clasp indeed recalls certain body jewelry. Who knew that one day, medieval sleeves and piercings could go along so well? And for that, ladies and gentlemen, we have J.W. Anderson.
Copyright: J.W. Anderson
Beth Ditto & Jean Paul Gaultier Introduce Fashion Line
Courtesy of Beth Ditto/Jean Paul Gaultier
“I trust you”, Gossip singer Beth Ditto yelled at us in the song “Heavy Cross” a few years back. Now, she has put her trust into the fashion scene. The American chanteuse and French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier have teamed up for the debut of Ditto’s own plus size fashion line. The singer announced the collection on her instagram account, commenting that she was “psyched” to introduce the line with the designer collaboration. Alluding very much to an 80ies-Madonna-style, the first shirt to be released features a print of Gaultier’s iconic corset on the front and back, adorned with actual laces to tie on the backside. With this step into the fashion world, the singer follows her path as a model in runway shows for Gaultier in 2011 and Marc Jacobs this year. It’s safe to say that Beth, we trust you with this, too.
Florian Roithmayr at Camden Arts Centre
December 12th, sees the start of the new Florian Roithmayr exhibition “with, and, or, without” in London. Set to run until March 6th, 2016, at the Camden Arts Centre, the exhibition focuses on material changes in the process of making. Those changes depict the interdependence of materials and surfaces as well as featuring the unexpected gestures that happen between mold and cast. For this particular exhibition, Roithmayr has dared what only few artists would consider themselves capable of: after having set up certain parameters, he handed over the control of the exhibitions configuration to the front of the house. This means that the placement of Roithmayr’s work will change daily at the “gusto” of another person. And to that, we can only tip our hats.
Volez, Voguez, Voyagez: a Journey With Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton has quite literally dusted off the suitcases. For the exhibition “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez”, the French fashion house retraces its own history back to the very beginning in 1854. Presented in nine rooms at the Grand Palais in Paris, the exhibition contains travel items from archives and Paris fashion museum Palais Galliera. Viewers can even catch a glimpse at never before seen travel items from private possessions and institutions. Curated by Olivier Saillard, the exhibition takes place until the 21st of February 2016. For all those who can’t make it, the brand has released a unique and poetic movie exclusively for the exhibition, titled “Never Ending Story”. As for us, we wish that the journey with Louis Vuitton indeed would never end.
CHANEL 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection
Karl Lagerfeld united his favourite cities when he took took Paris to Rome to present the latest CHANEL Métiers d’Art Collection on Tuesday at the Cinecittà film studio No. 5. The Parisian setting oozed romance with thematic décor including nymphs, statues and café terraces, all referencing the work of the legendary Alexandre Trauner…altogether it seemed quite poignant in light of recent events though Lagerfeld’s vision for this show preceded the November attacks. Sooty eyes and unfussy Bardot bouffants added a sultry undertone to the slouchy layered looks of knits, leather and black lace – all topped off with classic CHANEL pointed courts. Magical.
UNAIDS’ ProTESTHIV Turns One Tomorrow with an Exclusive Collection of Tees
Since its launch last year, the UNAIDS campaigners behind ProTESTHIV, have pledged to raise awareness of HIV testing on a global scale, in the hope of ultimately eradicating the deadly virus by 2030.
In marking World AIDS Day tomorrow (December 1) and as part of this campaign, a collection of five unique T-shirts will be released on sale. The contemporary artists FUTURA, André, Dustin Yellin, Scott Campbell and Aersoyn-Lex have exclusively designed the tops, visually tackling an internationally unavoidable subject.
ZOO has the exclusivity to give away a selection of tees. What to do? Be creative with one of our current covers and send your creation to firstname.lastname@example.org, or easily purchase the extremely limited edition collection in the concept stores Goodhood (London), STORM (Copenhagen), Colette (Paris), 290 Square Meters (Amsterdam) and Soto (Berlin), with all proceeds going to UNAIDS…At 50€ per tee that must be the definition of money well spent.
All for a Good Cause
In support of the rainforest charity, Cool Earth, this winter sees Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler team up with British restaurant Aqua Shard to design and create a magnificent 18-foot Christmas Tree. Decorated with beautiful festive beading that has been crafted by a women’s cooperative in the Awajún community, it will be adorned also with vibrant garlands of “tuju” and “huayruro” seeds to symbolise good fortune and abundance. Emphasizing the significance of protecting the rainforest, the sustainably sourced tree will then be covered in an ethereal cocoon of lace and stand in front of a beautiful London skyline backdrop.
Accompanying this extravagant creation, Aqua Shard will be selling limited edition, uniquely wrapped chocolate made from the cacao gathered by Peru’s Asháninka communities, an extra-special chocolate desert and an exclusive Johnnie Walker Blue Label cocktail. This is all to raise money for Cool Earth, the charity whose award-winning model is so efficient, that in working with local indigenous communities they now have more rainforest under their protection than any other NGO or government.
To purchase a Vivienne Westwood x Cool Earth chocolate bar, please visit www.aquashardblog.co.uk/viviennewestwood
Beginning today is the 19th edition of the exceptional photography fair, Paris Photo. Held in the Grand Palais it brings together 147 prestigious, international galleries in a celebration of the photographic medium. Curated by the official partners of Paris Photo, several intriguing exhibitions will highlight the world’s most impressive photography projects, from already established artists and exciting emerging talent. Alongside these will be the conversational “Platform”, the “Private Collection” exhibition welcoming Italian collector Enea Righi, whilst the 4th edition of the Photobook Awards will acknowledge 3 projects out of 1000 submissions!
New to this year’s fair is “PRISMES”, an exhibition supported by Giorgio Armani, which promotes out of the ordinary series from photographers such as Daido Moryama, Paul Graham and Stephan Schenk. Not only this, but the novel “BOOK MACHINE” will run – an initiative bringing together the newest photographic talent with public participants through the creation of books…whether you are an expert, an enthusiast, a collector or just a passer by, Paris Photo is worth exploring.
The Paris Photo fair is held at the Grand Palais, Paris, from November 12-15, 2015.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Grimes Releases New Video from forthcoming “Art Angels”
Blood drenched, purple wigged, Renaissance dressed Grimes has just let loose her self-directed video for “Flesh Without Blood”/ “Life in the Vivid Dream”. This is taken from her forthcoming album, “Art Angels”, which will be available digitally from November 4 on 4AD. A fully solo venture, as all of Grimes’ previous albums, she plays piano, guitar and even violin throughout the album. Impressed? It gets better, as this record also contains the largest amount of live instrumentation than any of her earlier ones, as well as including collaborations with Janelle Monáe and fresh-faced newcomer, Taiwanese rapper Aristophanes.
With her European headline tour kicking off next Spring in Brixton, London, you even have enough time to learn all the lyrics. Get excited!
Since Absolut Vodka became active within the art world over thirty years ago, the liquor giant has collaborated with more than 600 artists and worked on around 900 commissioned works worldwide. 2014 saw the brand extend to create the currently Stockholm-based Absolut Art – an online platform dedicated to establishing the value of art in everyday life to be as important as music. In banishing the intimidating confines of museum walls, the site opens up the world of art collecting to the public and bridges the gap between artist and appreciator.
In perfect timing for Christmas, Absolut Art are launching Germany’s own version of the site with expertly and locally curated artworks from over 40 selected German artists, such as Gregor Hildebrandt, Paul McDevitt and Stef Heidhues. With the site constantly updating, there are artworks of all types to be discovered on the coming website and added to your office or home.
November, 2015, sees the launch of the Absolut Art German website along with the “Absolute Art Apartment popup Experience”, a series of accompanying events held in Berlin, which are yet to be announced.
Official Paris Photo Partner, Giorgio Armani presents ACQUA#6
As part of this year’s Paris Photo, to which Giorgio Armani became an official partner back in 2011, the designer will be presenting the sixth installment of his “ACQUA” exhibitions. It seems that the earthly element has provided him with a constant source of inspiration and not only for his fashion expedites but for his civic duty as well. Armani began the “Acqua for Life” project with the Green Cross International several years ago, which has since provided millions of liters of drinking water to communities in need, primarily in Ghana and Bolivia.
Now, amidst 140 exhibiting galleries hosted at the Grand Palais, all offering historical and contemporary photographic artworks, is ACQUA#6 “Reflecting on Water”. The annual exhibition sees various photographic conceptualizations of “water” from young and emerging artists, as chosen by Armani. This year, Lucien Clergue and Lee Friedlander are among those participating, whilst Noémie Goudal’s “Observatoire X” provides its official photo.
Fred Perry x Stüssy 35
In commemoration of their 35th Anniversary, Stüssy are collaborating with a number of fellow lifestyle brands whose vision have inspired them along their journey. One of which, being the massively influential British heritage brand, who in the 1950s, pioneered sportswear as streetwear and thus created an entirely new youth culture. This brand is of course, Fred Perry.
This celebratory collection sees the union of two trademark giants, and with that, two iconic logos. Classic, retro sportswear looks from the Fred Perry Sports Authentic line are reimagined in rich Mahogany and French Navy, emblazoned with the Stüssy signature and Fred Perry wreath. Joining these in the collection are two, paneled pique shirts as well as three strap-back caps.
The Fred Perry x Stüssy Collection is now available to purchase online at www.fredperry.com
Casadei Spring/Summer 2016: A New Odyssey
Hitting the stores in late October and only 20 days after the press review, Casadei are breaking the rules with their upcoming New Odyssey capsule collection. Taking inspirations from the shapes and styles of the sixties, the clean lines of 2001 Space Odyssey and the desires of a modern-day Casadei woman, this season at the Italian-footwear label is a fusion of past and present. A monochrome contrast engulfing boots, Mary Janes, ankle boots and sandals, the elegant line carries just the right amount of drama with subtle hints of silvered leather incorporated in its sleek designs. This timeless collection marks the beginning of a whole new chapter for Casadei, who will release the lines Graphic Cuts, Young Jewels and Bright Colors in later months to provide a shoe for every mood of the urban woman, be it contemporary or eclectic.www.casadei.com
Akris Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
This season in Paris saw Albert Kriemler enlist Sou Fujimoto, a Japanese architect, in creating innovative fabrics for his latest collection. You’ll get no prizes for guessing which theme the collection was made in respect to: architecture.
The usually, ultra minimal effect of Kriemler’s vision was spruced up somewhat with these textured fabrics and insistent peeping window holes featured on tunic tops and dresses. Geometric lines cut across asymmetric shapes amidst a wealth of fine tailoring and chic silhouettes. Altogether, this made for a modernistic collection unusual to Kriemler’s typical approach.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It seems as if Sarah Burton has relaxed somewhat in the current season at Alexander McQueen. The intimate collection showed Burton to get familiar with McQueen’s ancestral roots, in drawing her inspiration from the 17th-century Spitalfields silk weavers, who settled in the East End of London after fleeing religious persecution in France.
An elegant assortment of lace and ruffles formed a long, slim silhouette on models, who wore chandelier earrings with their hair loosely pinned back. Dramatic chained body jewelry added a stab of McQueen grit to the gracefully feminine collection.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There is a powerful message behind the latest Valentino Collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Their inarguably beautiful collection of bold prints and delicate patterns presents a fusion of cultures between Italy and Africa.
Braided hair, ethnic inspired jewelry and a palette of strong, vibrant colors appear in conjunction with ruched dresses, studded detailing and leather patchwork reminiscent of the Roman Empire.
No doubt people will question the ethical appropriation of the show… However, with the ongoing refugee crisis we hope that people will take something positive away from it and see the beauty of cross-culture, as Chiuri and Piccioli intended.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” has provided Raf Simons with a great source of inspiration with this collection for Christian Dior. The ultra feminine line, pleasing to dedicated Dior fans everywhere, was packed with white Victorian-style ruffles, shapes and necklines.
With neckscarves and brooches reading with “1947”, Simons has once again got nostalgic for the monumental New Look collection of that year and incorporated relaxed interpretations of classic, rigid lines into this collection. Adding a splash of contemporary androgyny Simons throws in some chunky knitwear and tailored suits.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Now in their fourth season, Vetements are no longer the new kids on the block. This collective of young designers who are proving the power of friendship are now also winners of the LVMH Designer Prize. Their latest collection pushes the irrelevance of gender and depicts the ultimate expression of cool.
Making a return to the catwalk are their signature gigantically proportioned suits, this time with dramatic splits up trouser legs and appearing in striking blues and oranges. Jacquard sweaters, Star Wars wide-leg trousers and thigh high boots emblazoned with the Vetements name are taken together to reinforce alternative, youth culture within the context of Parisian fashion.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It is all about the sheen at Dries Van Noten this season. Embroidered platform wedge mules set off a busy display of prints, netting and colors. The eclectic collection took inspiration from the vintage 30s and 40s, and blended in beautifully tailored pieces with incredible wide-leg jeans.
A wings motif spread out over models’ chests, who, donning victory rolls in their hair and carrying clutches, sparked connotations of the glamour of Hollywood in the old days. A continuation of the designer’s vision from last season, the collection was all the more dramatic in being shown in an abandoned warehouse setting.
Damien Hirst Opens the Newport Street Gallery with John Hoyland's "Power Stations"
After three years in production and around £25 million of his own money, Damien Hirst will finally open the Newport Street Gallery in Lambeth, London. Spreading itself over five buildings along one street, the gallery was designed by Caruso St. John and includes the renovation of three Victorian listed buldings, which before the second world war also served as galleries.
Newport Street Gallery will house over 3,000 works from Hirst’s personal collection and includes the likes of Francis Bacon and Tracy Emin. Alongside already established artists will be works from the new generation of emerging artists and from indigenous artists of the Pacific Northwest Coast.
The opening exhibition, displayed in all of the five buildings, will be a retrospective collection of works from the iconic abstract painter, John Hoyland (1934-2011), who has not featured in a major solo exhibition for nearly ten years.
The Newport Street Galleries will open to the public on October 8, 2015, in London. John Hoyland’s “Power Stations” will exhibit here until 3 April, 2016.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
In a surreal Parisian show, “Le Nez Rouge” came complete with ginormous balls of fabric, a barefooted child in a man’s shirt and the designer himself leading a horse down the runway.
The collection itself was outstanding. Heavily deconstructed suits resulted in asymmetric lines and contemporary shapes in the label’s signature style. Crisp shirts and tailored trousers appeared in the designer’s trusted palette of navy, white, grey and red.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
If it was blue last season then it was orange this one at Emporio Armani. Well with a majority neutral palette throughout, he ended the show with a vibrant orange, evocative of a summer sunset.
Continuing with a casual trend to his clothes, this line sees a fluid transition from androgynous looks to decidedly feminine ones, from eighties inspired power dressing to nineties sports-inspired leisure wear. With the adoption of a number of shapes, a stand out are the ruffled suit trousers that cinch in with a belt buckle.
Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Seemingly having had sourced inspiration from a documentary depicting one man’s travel through Western Australia, the undertone to Gaia Trussardi’s latest collection is of exploration and survival.
Longline jackets and shirts sail over matching linen trousers, all with distressed raw edges, appear as though they have withstood the harshest of elements of a desert. There is patchwork, layering and leather all realized in a warm, earthy palette and slouchy silhouettes.
Amidst all of this, Trussardi is having a somewhat vintage moment, with beaded dresses and waistbands and a nostalgic pendant necklace featuring in every look. The culmination of which is a collection fusing roughness with luxury, a novel interpretation of shabby-chic.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Opposing retro at all costs, Karl Lagerfeld implies that there are no references in his latest Fendi collection. The puffed up sleeves, the high neck collars and the repeated latticing are puzzling... With coral, oversized leather sleeves and a pleated maroon skirt that flows to the ankles, I can’t decide if we’re in the eighties or the Renaissance, with look 16.
Lagerfeld incorporates a diverse number of silhouettes, fabrics and colors into the collection and more often than not with this one it really seems as though they shouldn’t work together… Somehow though, they definitely do.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a scrupulous eye for the details, Alessandro Michele has created a world of intricacies with his latest Gucci collection. A continuation of his vintage-inspired vision from last season, the quirky collection contains every accessory imaginable with a plethora of floral satins and sheer chiffons.
Models donning huge rocks walk up a printed carpet reminiscent of an aristocratic interior, against a backdrop of an older Italy’s industrial landscape.
With corsages, oversized, sparkly glasses and head-to-toe printed suits, the current Gucci line is Renaissance-meets-the-seventies, and eccentricity is key.
Thomas Tait Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
At a first glance, the label’s latest collection seems somewhat odd. Look again and you cannot miss the relentless repetition of a spherical cutout motif, giving the collection many facets.
At times it is tribal, at other times, with the incorporation of A-Line dresses and flares, it is reminiscent of the retro sixties and seventies. In manipulating it into a geometrical pattern on jackets, it seems inspired by industrial design.
His choice of positioning the “peephole” motif in almost every location on the clothes creates a sense of what Tait deems “awkward intimacy”. Put all of these different perspectives of influence together and you are left with one unstoppable force of contemporary design.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer Collection 2016 at LFW
Florals, midi skirts and the ruched dresses we know so well, Dame Vivienne Westwood has once again taken the conservative and stamped her bold print all over it. With dramatically smudged make up and face paint, one model carries a book with her down her walk in translucent sliders. Others are in perfectly prim dresses whilst wearing a harness over the top.
With a splash of tartan and the odd carbon-footprint-awareness top, Dame Vivienne Westwood sticks to her guns and creates another classic collection for the Red Label.
MCQ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Rather than have a catwalk show this year at LFW, the label who pride themselves on supporting new creative talent have chosen to show a presentation of their current collection, through the eyes of three young emerging artists. Lea Colombo, Jack Davison and Sharna Osborne reimagined the line using character studies, detail shots and a sequence of short films.
The collection itself takes inspiration from a Post-Punk “No Wave” New York scene during the late seventies and early eighties. Refuting the mainstream sound at that time, this movement reflected strength and rebellion – perfect for MCQ Alexander McQueen.
The presentation was shown digitally on social channels and mcq.com and was set in Spitalfield’s Christ Church, the building that also provided the location for the legendary Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1996 Dante show.
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Open shirt-dresses peeling off model’s shoulders, undone fastenings and asymmetric hems overtly hint at the inspiration behind this season’s Proenza Schouler Collection.
Indeed, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough claimed it was “a peeling banana” that influenced the label’s luxurious ready-to-wear line. Makes sense doesn’t it? Already a clever collection, its combination of interesting shapes, textures and colors make it a beautiful one too. Mix in some ruffles, pom poms and feathers, and you are left with an ultra-feminine, contemporary line with a hint of Spanish influence.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
Acne Studios Embrace Change with Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Adopting fashion’s recent shift away from gender distinctive clothing toward current trends of gender blurring and androgyny, Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has featured his 11-year-old son Frasse in the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Shot by Viviane Sassen, the ad sees the preteen football fanatic tottering about in heels and a number of coats from the new womenswear collection – looking unnervingly cool whilst doing so.
In a recent statement, Jonny Johansson said “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather than seeking approval from society or to follow set norms.” The outdoor ad will appear in major cities New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong.
Dez Mona’s “Origin” gets in Touch with their Emotional Side
August 28, 2015, saw the bearded Belgian band Dez Mona release their long-awaited new album “Origin” with Caroline Benelux records. Steering away from the Rock tones of previous album, “A Gentleman’s Agreement”, Nicolas Rombouts’ bass guides listeners back to the band’s more traditional, musical roots of Jazz and gospel with Gregory Frateur’s flawless voice and accompanying double bass, accordion drums and guitars all swiftly in tow. The raw emotion of lyrics is unescapable, whilst the pulsating bassline of first single and album opener “Does it make you, happy?” captivates and thrills. The band also go on tour with the album, starting in October.
Dez Mona “Origins” album is available to purchase from record stores in Belgium and the Netherlands and is also available online from their website.
PARIS XVIE: A Short Film for Dior Homme
Yesterday saw Dior Homme unveil its latest collaboration between artistic director Kris Van Assche and photographer Willy Vanderperre. “PARIS XVIE” is a short film exploring what it means to be this season’s Dior man, with actor Boyd Holbrook guiding us through a day in Paris.
Wearing a tuxedo whilst exploring the depth of Paris’ urban landscape, Holbrook is charmingly confident. Playing a harmonica as he wanders through the streets and picking up flowers as small souvenirs, his pensive expression draws a certain curiosity about him. Toward the end of the film, as a nod to the stylized, cinematic screens of Hollywood, we see him dance around the room and walk under the lights of Paris at nightfall… A clever mix of old and new, this season’s Dior man must be witty, romantic and self-deprecating. PARIS XVIE is online now and accompanied by a still image campaign.
Theory Unveil Latest Campaign with David Sims
Theory reunites with photographer David Sims in launching their AW 2015 campaign. Natalia Vodianova and Clement Chabernaud also return in promoting the brands’ new collection in a variety of chunky knits and woolen suits.
The New York based label have once again avoided cluttering their minimalistic, modern image and opted out of following the current trends. Since being appointed as co-creative directors of the fashion brand last season, Lisa Kulson and Ben Stubbington have stripped back Theorys’ image. Simplistic looks in luxurious, soft fabrics, the fashion brand has evolved to produce unique pieces that are simultaneously easy to wear, wardrobe staples. With their new image, Theory is all about transforming the ordinary into the unordinary. They have created a contemporary, urban uniform, with their reinvention of everyday, work attire.
MACE Announces Summer Collab with LOEWE for John Allen Collection
In collaboration with British artist John Allen, LOEWEs’ creative director J.W. Anderson recently released a quirky line of bags for the brand, featuring the striking landscape prints that Allen is famous for.
This original collection of canvas bags, featuring the pieces “Falling Leaves”, “Cornish Harbour” and Pink House in Cumbria”, have proven to be hugely successful for LOEWE and showcase Allens’ unique style of creating beautiful, abstract scenes using dramatic colours.
Continuing this celebration of fashion, art and culture, LOEWE have agreed to join with the Association of Friends of the Museum of Contemporary Arts in Ibiza (MACE) in opening a Summer Shop in the museum. This will be open from 28 July – 6 September at MACE, located in the Dalt Vila, or IBIZAs’ historic region, and feature LOEWEs’ extraordinary John Allen collection.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Lily-Rose Depp for CHANEL
Following in the footsteps of her mother Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been made the new CHANEL ambassador and the face of its Pearl eyewear collection. The embodiment of youth, modernity and femininity, the young actress plays a baby doll surrounded by a lofty world of sweetness and style. Her appearance at the Haute Couture show signalled the start of Ms. Depp’s journey as CHANEL’s fashion darling. Discover the Pear eyewear collection campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld in September 2015.
Rihanna x Stance: Murder Rih Wrote
Stance has announced that Rihanna is joining the unique sock brand as its contributing Creative Director and named a Punk & Poet brand ambassador. In celebration of this new venture, Stance has released two limited edition styles called Murder Rih Wrote, one in an over-the-knee style and one as a crew sock. Each set is a true collector’s piece, with only 1500 sets produced. Rihanna’s complete Stance sock collection will be unveiled this coming fall, a collaboration that epitomizes the rule-breaking, carefree and self-defined essence of both Rihanna and Stance.
Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin Fashion Week
From season to season the German capital proves there’s life in the old dog yet. Roughly 50 shows, an abundance of trade fairs, Microsoft’s IT COTOURE, MasterCard’s Priceless Berlin Launch, Zalando saving the Bread and Butter and opening its Fashion House, as well as the German Fashion Council’s first installment of the Berliner Mode Salon: while this is neither Paris nor Milan, Berlin has sustained international appeal as a fashion metropolis. Coincidentally the premier collection on day one was titled ‚The long march to victory’. Menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased a tone on tone, almost monochrome collection with mystically painted, muddy faces. Usually dark and gloomy with a hopeful flash of light colors towards the end, dangling starps and unusual cutouts, Daniel Blechmann’s vision assembles into a continuous look throughout – all the way down to the boots, which are the result of a fruitful collaboration with Palladium Boots. The Pampa Hi SOPOPULAR will be available from January 2016.
Maverick Marcel Ostertag sought inspiration in the ‚Desert’. His models were adorned in bright colored daily wears. Desert prints on flowing kaftans are standout pieces of the collection. Aside from many light and airy fabrics in shades of brown and yellow, Ostertag showcased delicate gowns crafted from tulle and embroidery in midnight blue and white.
Perfectly timed for Wimbledon, bright white and grass green opened Hien Le’s Spring/Summer 2016 show. Tennis attire of the 1960s and 70s was most obviously the inspiration for his collection and worked splendidly: sporty elegance and his ever so present carefree lightness shaped the season’s designs. Pants, shorts, slightly flared mini skirts; pleats, button-down dresses made from summer wool, Swiss Cotton and coated linen in unadorned, masterly cuts are all part of Le’s signature style. This time around prints were minimal and played right tot the collection’s theme – in the form of tiny crossed tennis rackets.
PERRET SCHAAD once again offered light silk pieces, flowing in the wind at every turn. A perfectly composed color scheme from light shades of green to grey and pinks made for a diversified yet harmonious coloring. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection embodies the freshness and intensity of a crisp seaside vacation, set off by urban asphalt hues. The mix of natural and artificial colors in this collection juxtaposes the existential severity and lightness PERRET SCHAAD’s classical designs are renowned for. Linens, breezy silks and sheer voile cotton counter heavier fabrics and create volume and interesting lines, much as we have come to expect from the design duo. Long, flowing pants, silk dresses and coats from crinkled linen in midnight blue, black and earth tones make another appearance at Michael Sontag’s show. The designer is another one of those veterans who sticks to his unmistakable signature with his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings – and the collection is better for it.
Malaikaraiss on the other hand strayed a little from her usual styles and envisaged surfer girls with a sleek look, soft dresses, transparent blouses and round straw hats, the very coherent, grown-up look is reminiscent of summer’s fun in the sun.
Lala Berlin’s iconic prints are delicately dispersed on chiffon dresses as well as pant suits suitable for everyday life. Wide pants with pleats folded toward the middle, cut from a jacquard fabric with hobnail patterns will also work well commercially.
White dots are embroidered onto black chiffons; pecking birds on a camisole and a dress is adorned with embroidered pineapple upon the hips in Augustin Teboul’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Both designers almost appropriate black denim jackets and pants to street wear – almost. They threaded rows of shimmery black pearls into frayed knees and shoulders - a beautiful finale for day three of Berlin Fashion Week.
Marina Hoermanseder once again showcased her impeccable craftsmanship in molded leather - this time in globe-skirts with leather blossoms tight skirts made from leather straps and cast plastic corsages, added by a number of wearable dresses, blouses and wide-legged pants made from washable silk, suede, and white cotton with eyelet embroidery. During her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy.
Dorothee Schumacher found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection in a paradisiac jungle with florals, beige safari looks, furiously mixed prints. Like many other designers this past week, Dorothee Schumacher rediscovered the shoulder and thereby put a new twist on her ever present play with femininity.
Overall this installment of Fashion Week showcased many of the style tropes associated with the renowned New Objectivity – muted colors, flowing, understated cuts – all perfectly executed by Berlin’s MVPs. However, there are interesting newbies making their mark, promising a future for Berlin’s fashion circuit.
Miu Miu Club and the 2016 Croisière collection during Paris Fashion Week
In celebration of the 2016 Croisière collection and the fashion house’s first fragrance, Miu Miu set the AMO to create a one of a kind pop-up club in the French capital. Inspired by the cabarets of Les Folies Bergères and the jazz-filled streets of Montmartre, the space was a true feast for those longing for the seductive Paris nightlife. Alongside the collection showcase, the event was a full-bodied celebration of Parisian culture, including a cocktail gathering, exclusive dinner and musical performances by several DJs including Seth Troxler and Frederic Sanches who ensured the party was fit for its grand Paris venue. The resort collection echoed the carefree, dark side of the Miu Miu venue, with curiously shaped tops and punkish prints scattered throughout. The silhouette was a mashup of several decades it seems – from 60s minis to 20s drop-waist dresses. It was as if all of Paris’ nightlife ghosts had come alive to celebrate again.
CHANEL Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The revived flapper girl took centre stage at CHANEL’s Haute Couture showcase. The drastically shortened bob and asymmetrical hemline were decidedly 1920’s, yet all the while contemporary. Though it wasn’t far removed from a Baz Luhrmann set, the trademark Grand Palais was decidedly CHANEL — abundant in theatrics and perhaps even more ostentatious than any Great Gatsby film set. CHANEL is after all the real deal. The Art Deco casino showcased stars gathered around casino tables, Oscar winner Julianne Moore and muse Kristen Stewart at ease in ‘Le Cercle Privé’.
However, it was Karl Lagerfeld’s bride Kendall Jenner that symbolised this seasons CHANEL Haute Couture collection – an unabashed celebration of the young it-crowd. A proper Daisy Buchanan to Karl’s Gatsby. Indeed, the showcase of the ‘high rollers’ sat in the centre of the runway was perhaps less of a subtle hint, with guests such as Lily-Rose Depp and Lily Collins bidding for a chance at a win. Alas, this is Haute Couture. And conceptualism is as much a part of the picture as the garments themselves.
However, as with his recent collections, Karl triumphs again with his garment construction. This time with the introduction of his fully 3D printed suits, pushing the classic CHANEL look into the age of fashion technology. Though the silhouettes were classic in nature, their conception were as avant-garde as his presentation.
KENZO’s short film “Here and Now"
Bastion of the New Queer Cinema movement Gregg Araki has written and directed an original short film for KENZO, featuring their Fall/Winter 2015 collections. In an idea stemming from the creative directors of the fashion house Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the movie is a quirky venture, somewhat startling and even a little obscene. Centering around a group that could have been taken straight out of his 1997 cult film ‘Nowhere’, the film is as curious as the KENZO collections: colorful, in-your-face aesthetics, abstract and a little disjointed, yet kind of cool.
Watch the clip here: www.kenzo.com/herenow
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Prada Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Leather shorts, black boots, tailored jackets and casually bold prints dominated the somewhat feminine take on menswear by Miuccia Prada. The collection was imprinted with the playful feeling of boyhood – oversized tops, colorful prints of rocket ships and racing cars and shirts tucked hurriedly into shorts. Boot-cut pants and zipped sweaters beneath printed shirts reflected the vintage 70s vibe that reverberated throughout the Prada showcase.
Hôtel Eugène en Ville Paris
Lying just a short distance from the Opera and the exquisite Galeries Lafayette, the Hôtel Eugène en Ville is a haven for those seeking a home base near the heart of Parisian culture. The surrounding area also boasts several shopping opportunities, restaurants and architecture.
The hotel offers rooms with a distinctively contemporary feel, making the Eugène en Ville a sophisticated yet comfortable space dressed in the guise of an edgy and stylized interior. For a memorable and perhaps quirky yet classy stay, the Hôtel Eugène en Ville is a splendid option for an easy and comfortable exploration of Paris.
Axel Hoedt: Dusk
Taking you on a journey through the carnival culture of the southwest of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, Axel Hoedt’s project invites a critical and curious take on the representations of carnival. Dusk undermines the often clichéd traditional views of the carnival subculture, whose image is peppered with visions of somersaults and drunken debauchery.
Against the backdrops of simplicity and normality, Hoedt places the performers directly in the frame of an alternate existence – their lives outside of the revelry for which they are dressed. Photographed in earnest poses and against the backdrop of the harsh winter landscape, Hoedt evokes the true essence of the carnival: the final celebration before the dawning of hard times.
For more about Axel Hoedt’s project, go to:
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring
Creative director Andreas Melbostad found his inspiration in Venice Beach for the upcoming Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring collection. Known for its authentic Californian way of life, the beach, the bustling city and all manners of street inspired art constitute the iconic location.
With its metropolitan DNA, Diesel injects a decidedly sporty take on the edgier Californian, enhanced by a simplified palette of black and white, accentuated by electric blues and grays. Beach sports galvanized this collections’ structure, with chunky zippers, structured fabric choices and ergonomic tailoring details inspired by surfing and diving gear. The collection is diverse – from leather jackets to sports backpacks and jean styles. Minimalism is paired with an effortless and sporty-chic vibe.
HFN Reworked Vol.1 - Various Artists
In this first volume of the hfn’s music catalogue rework series, Neville Attree modifies and electrifies selected tracks from Reptile Youth, Darkness Falls and Human Woman. The Faded Ranger producer Attree twists and reworks in unexpected ways, creating a distinctively club-friendly sound. Using freestyle remixing and retrospective futurism, the producers’ compact instrumental form is delivered to you by way of melodic bass, attuned to both dancing pleasures and lounging leisure.
This reworked revelation includes three instrumental versions of reinvented classics hailing from the label’s formative years. A style reminiscent of “retrospective futurism”, Attree produces works fit for the bustling underground rave to the offbeat if not avant-garde soiree.
Various Artists – hfn reworked eins is available as of 25 May 2015 on hafendisko.
Villa Kubu Boutique Hotel & Spa
Located in the fantastical Seminyak region of Bali, Indonesia, the Villa Kubu offers an oasis of luxury leisure. Merely 1km away you will stumble onto the famous Seminyak beach, however with a range of romantic and private sanctuaries stocked with cozy furnishings and private-pool Villa’s, it just might be a little too hard to leave the premises.
To make things even more irresistible, full entertainment packages are set up in each Villa along with fully equipped kitchens. If you find yourself longing for a soul-nourishing escape, the chic Villa Kubu will cater to your holiday needs.
For offers, rates and more information, go to
Nordic Contemporary: “Too Much Of A Good Thing”
A temporary space at the Republique in Paris is set to house a formative group exhibition of artists from Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland. The Nordic gathering of ten Scandinavian artists, will exhibit paintings, sculptures, drawings and videos, presented through the artists’ unique interpretations. Beyond the mere geographical commonality of the artists, they are connected by their interest in the intersection of high and low culture, the polished and raw and the natural and clinical.
Founded, directed and curated by artist Andreas Emenius and cultural entrepreneur Jacob Valdemar, the series of changing exhibitions intend to showcase contemporary Scandinavian art in this satellite extension of the Copenhagen and Stockholm origins through diverse media. Mapping links between traditional and newer movements, the exhibition aims at delving into art that exists somewhere between self-reflection and self-expression.
Sebastian Helling, UNTITLED (AFFECTION), 2015
Jenni Hiltunen, Filmstill from "Grind", 2012
Rolf Nowotny, Bumbling Through the Night II, 2014
Erik Jeor, Icône VI, 2015
If you are a fan of Scandinavian art and contemporary culture then save the date for the Nordic Contemporary Paris Art Exhibition!
Nordic Contemporary opens Thursday May 28th till June 7th 2015 on rue du Château d’Eau 14 in Paris.
Replay Spring/Summer 2016 in Mykonos
Ringing in the summer season on the Greek island of Mykonos, Replay hosted about 700 guests for the launch of their 2016 SS collection. Treated to a sun-filled show with models such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bar Rafaeli and Sara Sampaio, the Nammos Beach Club set the stage for Replay’s theme ‘Destroyed Denim’.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Milan Opening of Fondazione Prada Art Center
The industrial complex and former Società Italiana Spiriti distillery made for an imposing yet grand setting for the May 3rd opening of Fondazione Prada, the OMA-designed art center in Milan. With attendees such as Hans-Ulrich Obrist, curator of the Serpentine, artist Damien Hirst and filmmaker Steve McQueen, the creative world were out in full force. The new permanent venue is the result of a reinvigoration project developed by architectural giant OMA, with the aim of expanding upon the spatial typologies in which art can be exhibited. With Rem Koolhaas at the helm, the architectural configuration is a composite of seven existing buildings dating back to the 1910’s with three added structures, the Podium, Cinema and Torre.
Created in 1993, Fondazione Prada’s philosophy of analysing the present is made possible through various creative platforms including contemporary art exhibitions, architecture, cinema and philosophical projects. Curated by several departments and headed by Muccia Prada, Patrizio Bertelli and Gemano Celant, the space is constructed around the idea of creative knowledge exchange and enhanced learning.
Exhibits are put on in various forms, the upcoming ‘Serial Classic’, and ‘Portable Classic’ projects, birthed by Salvatore Settis, taking on the subject of classical Greek-Roman statuary reproduction, whilst their new Bar Luce, conceived by film director Wes Anderson, reconstructs the classical Milanese café through a cinematic lens. The Fondazione Prada is an all-encompassing experience of the creative life – a dynamism reflecting the combined expertise of its creators and contributors.
The Milan venue of Fondazione Prada will open to the public on Saturday 9 May 2015, with the exhibition Portable Classic (9 May – 13 September 2015).
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
CHANEL, Pharrell & Lederhosen
The Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign stars CHANEL veteran Cara Delevingne, tour-de-force musician Pharrell Williams and the now seasoned runway walker Hudson Kroenig. Taken by Lagerfeld himself, the campaign features the collection’s trademark knits, knee-high lace-up boots and lederhosen.
Pharrell Williams, who will be awarded the CFDA Fashion Icon Award at this year’s ceremony, looked suitably at ease in the pieces inspired by the Hamburg-raised Lagerfeld’s roots. By combining the traditions of the region with a touch of Haute Couture, the collection evokes in the viewer connotations of a contemporary von Trapp family.
The collection will be available in boutiques and on chanel.com in June.
Tim Richmond's Last Best Hiding Place
The personal and contemporary odyssey through a landscape of filmic references – Tim Richmond’s Last Best Hiding Place reveals stories true or imagined, photographed over seven years throughout the American West.
A Montanan expression for “living under the radar”, the book’s title references the often haunting and melancholic atmosphere over a breadth of western states. Including images from the states of Wyoming, Montana, Utah and South Dakota, his subjects range from tattooed waitresses to the vast expanses of iconic railway.
Internationally acclaimed and widely published, the British Richmond’s prints have made their way into many a private collection. His departure towards a near ethnographic exploration of the American social and natural landscape encapsulates the cultural complexities and fascinations of stereotype.
The book will be available in a special edition of 100 copies, and a collector’s edition of 10, both signed and with a numbered certificate.
Book launch: Grimaldi Gavin, London, 23. June 2015
Available Europe: May / UK: June / USA: November 2015
Prouvé RAW Office Edition launches during International Design Week
The collaborators G-Star RAW, Vitra and the Prouvé family are launching the second series of the Prouvé RAW furniture collaboration: the office edition.
Meeting the demands of the modern-day office, the ten-piece series refashions the designs through the use of heavy-duty fabric materials in industrial shades of green, reflecting the re-use of factory floors and workshops for creative agencies. The Office Furniture project was initiated through a variety of custom workstations, conference tables, office chairs and other pieces of furniture made to furnish G-Star’s Amsterdam offices.
Catherine Prouvé explains the collection’s contemporary renewal: “I like the fact that this edition honors my father’s original design, while complementing it with contemporary details. This follows his understanding of design, which he regarded as a dynamic process. To him design was a never-ending evolution, constantly striving to respond to changing needs.”
Valentino opens new flagship store in Rome
As of now, you can find the largest flagship store by Valentino in the heart of Rome. The creative masterminds behind the brand, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo, have collaborated with architect David Chipperfield to create an environment that captures Valentino exactly as it is. They combine traditional values with modern design, allowing the atmosphere of the store to be welcoming and artistic at the same time. Since the store is situated in Piazza di Spagna, the only thing you can do is to get lost in Italian tradition and craftsmanship while visiting.
The Stage by Replay
To complete the Replay lifestyle, the brand has opened a restaurant at the multi-experience store in Porta Nuova, Milan. In the heart of this district, you’ll find a dining experience that combines fashion with cinema and sound. Award winning design firm Roman and Williams Buildings and Interiors has managed to create an environment that feels like a Hollywood film set. It is luxurious, yet familiar.
Diesel reintroduces Jogg Jeans
Back in 2011, Diesel launched Jogg Jeans for the first time. By using a special fabric, they made it possible to create jeans that were just as soft as a pair of sweatpants, but durable as denim at the same time. This year, Diesel is reintroducing Jogg Jeans with a campaign shot by artist Doug Abraham. It captures exactly what Jogg Jeans are about, along with the identity of Diesel.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Bottega Veneta opens their first Home Collection Boutique in Milan
It is just like every thing else Bottega Veneta is about: extremely sophisticated and elegant, made with the highest quality materials and crafted by hand. Bottega Veneta’s home collection includes furniture, lighting and home decoration. For the first time, the brand has opened a boutique that is completely dedicated to this collection, right in the heart of Milan.
You can visit the store at Via Borgospesso n.5 in Milan.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Golden boy Raf Simons tags along with the others and jumps back to the sixties. Subtle but groovy prints, latex boots and garments made out of an innovative, mesh fabric gave the entire collection more sexiness then we have seen at Dior before. The looks are much more wearable then at previous collections, especially considering that these clothes will be worn in big cities.
Simons showed us that Dior can be something for everyone. For next fall, he created perfectly finished suits with cropped, wide pants. There were a few painted furs, and what we saw most were long, warm coats. If the classics weren’t good enough, you could enjoy thigh high latex boots and fluid mesh garments.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Fringes, extremely wide flared pants, stripes and large belts around the waist all referred to this specific luxury from the seventies. Oliver Rousteing showed his vision for Balmain in a way that was clear and spot on. It is that confident girl, which likes to be looked at. An intimidating woman, that doesn’t dress down.
The overall feel of the collection was very Parisian; something that Balmain has always had in its essence. Every look seems to be perfect for a night out in Paris, but only if you fit the previous description.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Marni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For next fall, Consuelo Castiglioni took a different look at femininity. The collection seemed to be inspired by the costumes of a Siberian tribe, with the long, wide skirts and dresses. Felt-like wool was embroidered with black florals and showed a modern look on ancient tradition.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Metallics and brushstrokes dominated the latest show by Giorgio Armani. The collection consisted mostly out of jackets and pants, which made overall strong impression. Straight silhouettes and subtle layering made gave the collection a somewhat minimalist feel. Just like in the Emporio Armani show we saw last week, icy blues were everywhere to be found.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
Tokyo in Berlin
Nine years have passed since the opening of Zenkichi in Brooklyn. This year, owners Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies have chosen to open a second branch in Berlin. They recently moved to Germany to open their café ‘House of Small Wonder’ in Mitte, and decided it was time to introduce authentic Japanese dining.
To mimic a true Japanese dining experience, Watanabe has chosen for a private and closed interior. The restaurant is divided into 35 private booths, where you can even pull down bamboo blinds if needed. Watanabe and Margulies stay away from Japanese clichés and get to the essence of the culture with their menu, interior and overall atmosphere.
Sjaron Minailo is a child of the nineties, and of postmodernism. Throughout the years, he has always found inspiration in the works of musician and artist Björk. He has now directed a new piece based on her album Medúlla, where several generations meet to celebrate the art of the opera.
The spectacular costumes and intriguing set have been designed by Henrik Vibskov, who has managed to create a visual style that fits Medúlla perfectly.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense at Pace London
During the '60s and the '80s, the Robert Fraser Gallery played an important role in the British art scene. Opened in 1962 by dealer and Swinging London fixture, Robert Fraser, the institution supported and helped launch the careers of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
Portrait of John Edwards Francis Bacon, 1988
Over the years, the London gallery became a social hub for iconic entertainers such as John Lennon, Yoko Ono, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, William Burroughs, Marianne Faithful and Marlon Brando, many of whom were close friends of Fraser. Paul McCartney has even referred to the gallerist as “one of the most influential people of the London sixties scene”, while Richard Hamilton forever commemorated Fraser and Jagger’s drug-related arrest in his seminal work, ‘Swingeing London 67’.
Swingeing London 67R Hamilton
Delving in to the live and career of Robert Fraser, Pace London will reveal “a personal portrait” of the scintillating man. Curated by Brian Clarke, who was once represented by Fraser, ‘A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense” will capture the essence of the noted gallerist through a series of works by Francis Bacon, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Richard Hamilton, Jean Dubuffet, Dennis Hopper and many more. The exhibition will coincide with Clark’s solo presentation, ‘Spitfires and Primroses’, also at Pace London.
A Strong Sweet Smell of Incense: 6 February – 28 March, 2015 (6 Burlington Gardens) Spitfires and Primroses: 13 February – 21 March 2015 (6–10 Lexington Street)
Scugnizzi by Brett Lloyd
‘Scugnizzi’, the title of photographer Brett Lloyd’s new book, refers to the local kids in Naples who spend their summers hanging out on the city’s poorest beaches.
The Neapolitans are far from shy; they embrace themselves and their bodies, making for perfect photographic subjects. Over two summers, Lloyd captured these youths and their older peers, creating a catalogue of alluring, emotive and highly personal mementos.
‘Scugnizzi’, published by 'Dashwood Books NYC', will be launched on 10 December, 2014, at the ‘Donlon Books’ in London.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
Kobe Bryant at Nike Amsterdam Headquarters
“Mamba is back”, Mr Bryant says as he walks up on stage at the Nike Headquarters in Amsterdam. The recently retired NBA-player performed his last game on April 13th at the Staples Centre and ended his basketball career with an amazing 60 points, which he said was to bring excitement to the game and make people, including himself, forget it was his last. At a young age, he decided to start playing for the NBA, as he wanted to learn from the best, and it worked out brilliantly. Only 19 years old, he played against basketball legend Michael Jordan.
Being opposite Jordan didn’t scare him, but made him realize how good he had to practice to get to his level. During the half-hour Q&A Bryant talks more about growing up in Italy, coach Phil Jackson being the person he learned the most from and of course his on-going collaboration with Nike. As Bryant is very much involved in the process and design of the shoes, he will continue to innovate, find new and better materials, which should result in the best performance for athletes. There won’t be an acting career in the near future, but Kobe Bryant has a desire to inspire millions, by telling his story.
Aitor Throup's 10th anniversary
Artist, designer and creative director Aitor Throup celebrates 10 years in the fashion and design industry by unveiling a redesigned aitorthroup.com website, which features a complete insight of Throup’s creative archive from the last decade. The compilation of his work shows unseen projects as well as work from the early days of his career and current jobs, from design, film and photography to his work as creative director. The most recent New Object Research collection will be shown, as well as archived projects like the collaboration with Norwegian fashion photographer Sølve Sundsbø, among many others. The Royal College of Art alumni and his ‘A.T. Studio’ challenge traditional systems and propose authentic ideas and new ways of storytelling.
Diesel Black Gold Resort 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad has mixed an early nineties mood with Diesel Black Gold’s known utilitarian style, creating Resort 2017. Styled with gladiator boots and black pointy biker shoes to keep a clean cut and metropolitan spirit, the collection adapts new proportions that allow masculine shapes to appeal more feminine. Layering of skirts over long shirts, off-the-shoulder biker jackets and poplin dresses are this seasons’ statement look. For its men’s collection, Melbostad experiments with parachute trousers made from trench fabric, but keeps a utilitarian feel with bomber and denim jackets and sweatshirts, a sportswear essential.
A Surrealist Fantasy - Moncler FW16/17 by Annie Leibovitz
Surrounded by snow, inspired by the Nordic climate. Moncler’s ongoing collaboration with iconic photographer Annie Leibovitz produces a whimsical series of images for its Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, “A Surrealist Fantasy.” Leibovitz relationship with the French brand is founded on a shared view on creative experimentation, made visible in their latest partnership. Moncler’s FW16 Campaign is a collision of an imaginary and the natural word, which translates a surrealist vision.
Marni Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
The multiple facets of the Marni woman is portrayed by five lively characters in the Marni Fall 2016 campaign, shot in an abandoned, ancient mansion by Hellen van Meene. Giovanni Bianco & GB65 have through their art direction accomplished to create a delicate atmosphere in the deserted estate with hints to the surreal. The images, styled in Marni Fall 2016/17 by Lucinda Chambers, shows the collections new translation of romanticism.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016 #mycalvins
All of the Calvin Klein brands; Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear are combined in the Fall 2016 campaign under its title “I ___ in#mycalvins. The short video and images are shot by photographer and filmmaker Tyrone Lebon, who also shot Calvin Klein’s Spring 2016 campaign. Casted for Fall 2016s campaign are talented actors, musicians, fashion role models and athletes, along with professional and street casted models. This includes songwriter and producer Frank Ocean, supermodel Kate Moss, fashion icon Grace Coddington, rapper Yung Lean and Real Madrid footballer James Rodriguez. The campaign feels personal and authentic because of the intimate conversations with the cast. “Through our Fall 2016 campaign, we push the boundaries of traditional advertising with our content and our cast,” reveals Melisa Goldie, Chief Marketing Officer of Calvin Klein, Inc. Launched today on its website, www.ck.com/mycalvins, you’ll find a selection of 50 videos with interviews of the cast, behind-the-scenes footage and more.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Jil Sander reveals the Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign starring Australian model Julia Nobis and up-and-coming model Jonas Gloër. Photographed by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, the shoot took place in Paris, city of couture fashion. Vanderperre portrays Jil Sander’s minimalist aesthetic beautifully in a series of striking images.
WALTZ Autumn/Winter 2016
San Francisco based women’s wear brand WALTZ’ Autumn/Winter collection for 2016 is available now. Primarily hued in oxblood, rust and midnight blue, the choice in colour palette gives the collection its autumnal feel. The collection includes timeless pieces and wardrobe staples, garments that are versatile and essential. Founded by Danielle Colen, WALTZ is a brand embracing comfort and ease in its designs, with a prominence in quality fabrics and tailoring. WALTZ is influenced by menswear silhouettes and Colen’s affection towards the East Coast, whilst also maintaining a feminine touch and blending California’s mellow vibes.
Moncler O Autumn/Winter 2016/17
In collaboration with Off-White’s creative director Virgil Abloh, Moncler announces it’s Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection, called Moncler O. The range of clothing is influenced by fishermen of the Northern seas, made apparent in the collection’s waistcoats animating lifejackets along with long jackets including detachable or fixed hoods and short parkas. This collaboration makes for a unique collection, as there is a blend of street style and technical elements. The mix of materials is therefor unexpected, as we see PVC, nylon and other rubbery fabrics, incorporating prints featuring stormy skies, but also a nostalgic look made in pure wool crêpe. Abloh’s hallmark is in the form of the diagonal stripes present throughout the collection.
MBFW: Wendy&Jim SS17
In seventeen years of creative matrimony Hermann Fankhauser and Helga Ruthner of Wendy&Jim have yet to show signs of slowing down. Their showcase for SS17 at Berlin’s famed Galerie Crone was a breath of fresh air as much as a throwback to fashion’s heyday in the ought’s. After meeting at the Viennese University of Applied Arts in 1999, where Helmut Lang mentored them, they moved on to be a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – a promising teaser for their stint at MBFWB. A wonderland somewhere between Japanese manga and street performer opened up on the gallery’s first floor: a cross-legged model in a long black robe with pleats hovers about a meter above an artificial patch of grass, littered with cigarette buds and all. Another, dressed in a flower-clad kimono, holds on to a potted plant while the next one floats beside a street sign.
The collection itself is urban street wear rooted smack dab in the middle of Antwerp and Tokyo: an International Klein Blue hooded track suit paired with yellow socks in sandals and reflective wrist bands or a tunic and long skirt adorned with flowers. A little more out there, yet wearable are drop-crotch cycling shorts with spandex-turned-stray jacket tops in either yellow or red paired with cowboy boots or an equally tight ensemble of cycling shorts and crop top emblazoned with a creature that’s half snake, half sassy lady sticking out her tongue. A second room held a much more somber installation: a model in a white jumpsuit hovered above a bed in an otherwise dark room, while a performer on his illuminated skateboard circled the room, reliving the last days of disco. An exciting SS17 collection and an equal parts whacky and enchanting presentation by Wendy&Jim only begs one question: Will you be back for more, please?
Amanda Seyfried for Miu Miu AW 2016
Miu Miu has fused high-society with a modern twist for their AW16 campaign, shot by the renowned Alasdair McLellan and and styled by LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. The collaged images featuring Amanda Seyfried depict a high society replete with tea maids and pearls, with a distinct Miu Miu spin on the coquettish elite. Following in the footsteps of last week's eyewear campaign featuring 14-year old Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter, these striking images are sure to turn heads.
Nosomnia SS17 Preview
A brand that “develops a hybrid between classical menswear and urban style through innovative ideas and unexpected creation.” Keep your eyes on Copenhagen-based menswear brand Nosomnia, who’s just announced a preview for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection called ‘Every Piece Matters’. The preview is a series of serene, but artistic images shot in a field, capturing the dynamic use of colour in the collection, the embroidered detailing in the garments and the brands nostalgic touch of youth.
PFW: Kenzo Spring/Summer 2017
Cool kids squads. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim presented a collection once again inspired by their youth, growing up in LA and its West coast disco scene. The models arrived in packs. There was a lot of that grungy and rave look of the 90s. Departing from the Japanese tune of last season we see an explosion of youthful energy. In a badass attitude the model's walked the runway with high waist pants and shorts in nylon look a like textiles matching tops and shirt and often underwear pulled up above the waist with prints recalling the flyers promoting the artists of the time. Relaxed oversized coats and short jacket but also rain capes with hoodies underneath. Black and white but also lemon and cerulean blue. The collection shouted a multitude of personalities and styles, the freedom of youth.
PFW: VALENTINO SPRING 2017
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli revealed that for the Valentino Spring 2017 collection they were inspired by the “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” exhibition at the Met Breuer in New York, as it allows to see the artists’ development and creative process. This translated into the collection with some of the garments not being finished too, as thread hung from printed knits and stitches were loose. Nevertheless, this made for a selection of structured, luxurious appare. Military and camouflage colours as well as silhouettes start off the show which develops into denim and blue ensembles.
PFW: LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2017
Going back to its blueprint and claiming its identity. In Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2017 collection, they return to the brand’s heritage, drawing inspiration from Africa in rich textiles and prints with a colour palette led in Savannah-bleached tones. We find a dose of London Punk in the garments, in the use of ‘dog-collars’, mohair and transparent rubbers. The collection has the characteristic elegance and expertise we’re used to from Louis Vuitton. Visual artist-duo Jake and Dinos Chapman have for the second time collaborated with Louis Vuitton by creating four animal-like prints, used on the mohair jumpers.
Marcelo Burlon SS17 Show
Marcelo Burlon believes in the strength of the melting pot as he is a fearless social aggregator and enthusiastic herald of the liberating power of multiculturalism. An intertwining of worlds, a convergence of polar opposites defines his credo and practice of creative director and contemporary polymath. As visually bold and culturally layered as it possibly gets, the outcome keeps a note of authenticity that comes from real-life personal experiences.
This season Marcelo Burlon embarks on a loud sonic trip across ninja iconography, metal assertiveness and outer space futurism. The germ of this new exploration of the fast-paced, high-spinning, hyper-performing, urban style comes from Burlon's childhood days spent under military dictatorship in Argentina.The collection is an ode to noise that ignites unstoppable waves of change. Under the slogan SONIDO, spelt out loud in gothic fonts, a new cultural clash happens within the County of Milan premises. Numbers and graphic weaves mix with Ninja stars and County's very own Patagonian symbols, swarming on bomber jackets, hoodies, tops and shorts.
Kimonos both long and short and sliced samurai skirts point towards the East, chain-mail and PVC nod at the future, lace-up trousers provide a slight tingle of fetish. Shapes have both an utilitarian and adventurous feel, while a profusion of embroideries adds texture and visual stimulation. Clear PVC parkas and elongated sheer vests amplify the layering of the looks. Robotic trousers, jumpsuits and multi-pocket field jackets put a combat mode into play. In his quest for the balance of opposites, Marcelo Burlon keeps celebrating the clash as the essence of now and only fuel of progress.
PFW: BALENCIAGA SPRING 2017
Heeled boots and boxy jackets, Demna Gvasalia knows how to keep things interesting. The Balenciaga Spring 2017 collection, the brands first ever men’s runway show, exhibited on the beautiful rooftop of the Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague in Paris, saw structured silhouettes and wide shoulders in coats, trousers accessorised with lengthy silver chains and cropped shirts with elastic bottom. Gvasalia said that he “wanted a feel of formality, of perfection, to everything.”
Keira Knightley for CHANEL
CHANEL reveals as new face for the COCO CRUSH advertising campaign for Fall 2016 being British actress Keira Knightley, directed by Mario Testino. The actress perfectly expresses the Fine Jewelry collection through her sophistication and style. Knightley has been a good friend of the fashion house and is linked to the brand as being the face of the COCO MADEMOISELLE perfume and the ROUGE COCO collection.
MFW: MISSONI SPRING 2017
The Missoni Spring 2017 collection is heavily inspired by Guatemala, a trip Angela Missoni remembers going on with her mother when she was just 15 years old. The collection commences with contrasting tribal prints in knits and a vibrant colour palette in suits and shorts. Infused are embroidered shirts, white hats and brown pointy shoes, giving off a western feel. Missoni refers to the collection and her models as the “Gautemalan cowboys”.
MFW: MARNI SPRING 2017
Consuelo Castiglioni is often praised for her progressive and refined designs; Marni’s Menswear Spring 2017 is no different. The collection perfectly suits a quirky, businessman aesthetic, making for a show full of modern and dynamic designs. Rich red leathers are introduced in the form of trench coats, camel suits are included for the sophisticated Marni man, while the blue striped prints keep the collection young. Accessorized with both backpacks, briefcases and stylized sunglasses, Consuelo Castiglioni did good, Marni Spring 2017 is a winner.
MFW: ETRO SPRING 2017
Instead of the usual pout, models for the Etro Spring 2017 collection walk down the runway with a smile. And a dog, which instantly makes this show a success. Creative Director Kean Etro scouted the predominately non-professional models walking the runway himself and gave them the opportunity to decide for themselves what they’d like to wear. The collection feels fresh but casual, with loose-fitting tops and trousers along with tribal prints and dark hues.
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016/17
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign channels the house’s new mood, direction and elegance with a balance of tradition and edge. Pal Zileri chose world-famous ballet dancer Sergei Polunin to front the images shot by photographer Maciek Kobielski on location in Williamsburg, NY.
The Ukraine-born Polunin fully expresses Pal Zileri’s current identity and message with his balance of dramatic flair, strict artistic rigor and unconventional spirit. The new campaign is thriving to exalt talent with an unexpected twist. Soaked by a strong lighting, a fresh-faced and intense Polunin strikes relaxed poses framed by steel grids, modern props and a tonal palette of grays and deep blue that set off a contemporary atmosphere with an industrial touch. His bold and tattooed attitude adds character to Pal Zileri’s key fall looks, a mix of tailored pieces, luxe sportswear and exclusive details.
WUNDERKIND x Les Petits Joueurs
Eye –catching and playful designs that are spotted in the hands of it-girls and celebrities worldwide consist the new WUNDERKIND x Les Petits Joueurs handbag capsule collection by the Italian accessories designer Maria Sole Cecchi. Maria Sole is one of the young talents invited by Wolfgang Joop to interpret his vision of the WUNDERKIND style for Fall/Winter 2016. The collection marks the beginning of a series of design collaborations with young emerging talents.
The exclusive handbag range with fun details, bold statements and quirky geometric patterns translate the spirit of the WUNDERKIND Fall/Winter 2016 collection at its best. Janis is a compact size clutch in printed fur, which recalls the WUNDERKIND African wax print just like the Daliah Bucket with its embellished stars and studs. Exquisitely crafted in Tuscan leather, Jackie turns a classical luxury handle bag into a humorous statement piece. Handmade by skilled Florentine artisans utilizing exceptional materials the three models elevate all day-to-night ensembles
THE ART OF BANKSY To Open In Amsterdam
THE ART OF BANKSY exhibition will open from the 18th June until the 30th September, marking as the biggest display celebrating the British graffiti artist’s work and showing more than 85 of his creations. The curator is Steve Lazarides, Banksy’s former agent and friend, who with a team of 80 has been collating his work for over a year. Although the man behind the art has still yet to be exposed, his work is globally recognized expressing funny, satirical and political messages. As his work is placed outdoors, the passer-by and spectator is left to appreciate and reflect. The infamous drawings ‘Girl and Balloon’ and ‘Laugh Now’ will also be situated at the exhibition, based at the Beurs van Berlage in Amsterdam.
LC:M Lou Dalton
White socks and sandals. The ultimate fashion faux pass made acceptable during Lou Dalton’s show at London Collections: Men. Dalton found inspiration from her personal life for this collection, as she revealed she was influenced by the walks her brother and she used to have up the Yorkshire Moors when she was young. This collection includes nylons jackets and airy cottons, suitable for said walks. A couple of models wear a back-to-front bag on their chests, which is also handy whilst on a hike. The colour story is also appealing, going from dark navy and blacks to rich reds, yellows and stripes. It’s a practical collection, but beautiful none the less. Dalton collaborated with knitwear company John Smedley with a line of jumpers, featured in the line-up, immediately available after the show.
LC:M Topman Design
London Collections Men kicked off last week with launch parties introducing the four-day event on Thursday. Friday, Topman Design was the first to present their Spring/Summer 2017 collection. The line-up was a mixture of trends and styles, lead by pastel colours. Models appeared with wet hair and sun burnt cheeks, jumpers and shorts were embellished with ice creams, dolphins and palm trees, hinting to a tropical aesthetic and the idea of unwinding by the pool.
New Collection The Vampire's Wife
Strongly influenced by her husband, Nick Cave’s lyrics and with a desire to create the feminine and delicate clothing she was missing, Susie Cave created her own fashion brand. Having had more than 20 years experience in the fashion industry prior to starting up the business, she knows what looks and feels good on women and what doesn’t work. The former model worked closely together with her friend Alex Ademson and founded the new brand The Vampire’s Wife when she couldn’t find anything she’d like to wear. As she told Vogue the garments are, amongst other things, inspired by Russian Ballet and raw nature. The new collection has just been launched and is available on matchesfashion.com
Fifth Edition Unseen Photo Fair
The fifth edition of Unseen Photo Fair is coming to Amsterdam this September. Unseen Photo Fair will display never before seen artworks of new and established photographers, such as Isaac Julien, Anton Corbijn and Antoine d’Agata, in Westergasfabriek, Amsterdam. 53 galleries and more than 150 artists from across the globe will be exhibiting during the fair. As well as this, there's a on-site programme filled with debates, readings and various activities. A week before the fair, Unseen Festival will kick off for its second edition and is located in Spaarndammerbuurt. Unseen is proud to announce it's curators for their campaign this year as being art-duo Christto Sanz & Andrew Weir. While from completely different backgrounds [Puorto Rico & South Africa] their work compliments each other, they two both have a stylised and colourful approach to creating their art in which they question the identity of today's society. The Unseen Photo Festival will be running from 16th - 25th September, the Photo Fair from 23rd - 25th of September.
Peuterey Fall/Winter 16/17
Peuterey is a brand drawing on its stylish utilitarian heritage and sensing an epochal shift in the way real people react to it. It is an advocate for reality telling. Peuterey’s collection for Fall/Winter 2016-2017 focuses on personality and product. Piercing portraits and street shots are layered onto images of urban environments, suggesting an iconic melange that triggers the visual sensibility of the digital-savvy generation.
The campaign will debut in June with a maxi-billboard placed in Piazza della Repubblica, Florence. International brand ambassadors such as Blake Lively, Olivia Palermo, Jhoannes Huebl, Derek Blasberg, Sarah Jessica Parker, Amanda Seyfried, Aaron Paul , Felicity Jones, Tom Hanks, Leaf Greener, Jennifer Lopez and many more will further bring the message to a real audience. It will actually and factually hit the shop floor, both online and offline, with the collection distributed via top US department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue and leading stores worldwide such as Tsum. The brand targets also on the creation of dedicated partnerships, such as the collaboration with Miroslava Duma/Buro247 on a special jacket.
The campaign is shot by renowned lensmen Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, art directed by Giovanni Bianco and featuring models Marjan Jonkman and Filip Hrivnak whose unconventional beauty is fine tuned by a cast of top innovators of all ages. The campaign has a honest tone that contextualizes clothing within the frame of real life.
New Acne Studios store reflects the individuality of Munich
The contemporary Munich today is mixing innovation with tradition and this is reflected to the new Acnes Studios store in Maximilianspllatz, Munich.
The store follows the codes of the new Acne Studios store concept, using signatures such as stainless steel walls and bespoke fittings and furniture to create an individual destination.
The large, light filled location is viewed through a series of windows, the store itself acting as if a window display.
As with each new Acne Studios store, the décor feels as if it has been placed in the location. The original ceiling can be seen through the bespoke LED light fixtures, which run in straight lines to emphasize the breadth of the space. Contrasting textures are key, with both stainless steel walls and concrete reflected in a mirrored corner box that houses the fitting rooms. Bespoke furniture has been created for the store by long term collaborator Max Lamb. A large mirror leaning against a wall and stainless steel rails on wheels contribute to the purposefully improvised feel. This is the fourth Acne Studios store in Germany, following its Potsdamer Straße location in Berlin which opened in October 2015.
John Varvatos Opening of First Moscow Store
John Varvatos celebrated the opening of the John Varvatos Moscow store, making it the brand's 25th retail store globally. The party that took place in Crocus City Mall included a star-studded, black carpet arrival and rock star-worthy VIP party, featuring a special live performance by the legendary Russian rock band, Bi-2. The guests had the chance to experience an authentic rock concert that celebrated Russian and American culture, music and fashion.
Many Russian celebrities and personalities came out to celebrate the store’s opening. Among the A-list guests were the Russian singer-songwriter and businessman Emin Agalarov, and his father, billionaire entrepreneur, Aras Agalorov. Also, actor Pavel Tabakov, singer Ani Lorak, singer/television entertainer Inna Malikova, singer Anna Sedokova and other VIP personalities from Russian entertainment, show business, cinema, theater and fashion. Immediately after the live music performance, the celebration continued with an after party at the exclusive Rose Bar, where guests were treated to a special and thrilling fire performance including juggling, baton twirling, poi spinning, fire breathing and eating, and fireworks display.
The new store is meticulously curated with an emphasis on delivering the full John Varvatos offering, highlighting distinctively sophisticated yet versatile wardrobe selections that are ideal for dressier outings, and fit seamlessly into the lifestyle of stylish men everywhere.
The new store hosts the full spectrum of the brand's offerings, including John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos Star U.S.A. and Converse by John Varvatos.
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
Daring and self-confident is Louis Vuitton’s woman as appears in the Pre-Fall 2016 Travel campaign. Louis Vuitton launches the Capucines and the City Steamer handbags and gives the handbags’ trend for the fall. The City Steamer bags come in new colors like black and pink with Burgundy piping and Black and White with honey brown handle. Even though The Steamer was first created in 1901 and it was the first supple bag, today’s modern heroine loves it since it has become a true city bag. The second handbag model we saw in pre-fall 2016 collection of Louis Vuitton is the Capucines; red and black leather as well as pink crocodile leather are the colours and materials that the firm suggests for Capucines bags. The Capucine is a discreetly elegant new signature bag that incarnates the Maison and its know-how. Both handbag collections take pride of place in Louis Vuitton’s Travel campaign. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier, has captured the dynamic profile of today’s woman in the face of the actress and Louis Vuitton’s new muse Léa Seydoux. Louis Vuitton campaigns continue their architectural journey by setting this last campaign in the Ranch, a building designed by the Mexican architect Luis Barragan.
Lady Dior: As Seen By...Travels the World
Exhibitions all over the world are beyond captivating, but at some point, those who see one piece interpreted by a range of artists are actually the most fun to attend. There is something intriguing about the speculation what an artist might make of something, along with a refreshing twist given in each art piece. Dior jumped on this train of excitement by hosting their traveling exhibition “Lady Dior: As Seen By”, with its last stop to date made at the Langen Foundation in Düsseldorf. The display sees different artists, from Olympia Scarry to Katharina Sieverding, display their vision of the notorious Lady Dior bag. Glass creations stand next to wall art set in space; some artist focus on the bag handle, some melt the whole piece down. As Seen By initially kicked off in Shanghai in 2011 and has been traveling the world since. Until it moves to the next city, maybe consider what your take on the famous bag would be...we'd already have a list with ideas at the ready.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016
When Hedi Slimane let loose his Fall menswear collection about a month ago, nobody knew what he had in store. Going back, we remember glittering cowboy vibes, 70s rockstar inspirations, tight pants and booties, presented in a gloomy setting at Los Angeles' Palladium. Back then, Slimane not only showcased menswear looks, but also “Part 1” of his womenswear collection, which featured similar vibes to the men's designs. Fast forward to now, again, nobody knew what the designer had in store for the womenswear sequel. Revealed on Monday during Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter designs distance themselves from the rocking hobo-vibes of L.A. and transfer the mood to the glittering scene of the 1980s. In an old-fashioned Parisian residence, Slimane presented glam-bam designs that overdo everything just as great as the 80s did. Shoulders are oversized to enormous measures, silhouettes are distorted by big bows creating asymmetry and an overall is reborn in an top-to-bottom sequin look. Additionally: an 80s woman was no catch without a belt, so Slimane adds the big-buckled waist slimmer to his range and matches it with pointy heels. Fashionistas and historians may discover references to the grand Mr. Saint Laurent himself, but it's Slimane's own demand for surprise that puts a frame on this collection. Maybe, next time, the 90s will be the centre of his inspiration. Until then, we'll dance the night away in these bedazzling designs. Are you ready?
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Attilo Giusti Leombruni Fall/Winter 2016/17, Maggie Gyllenhaal by Bryan Adams
For Italian shoe brand Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the recipe to a high-quality campaign is quite short. All it takes are three ingredients: a stunning actress as testimonial, a high-profile photographer and – of course – the perfect pair of shoes. For their new Fall/Winter 2016 visuals, the brand tapped actress Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the latest designs, shot by no other than ZOO's Bryan Adams. Black-and-white snaps see Gyllenhaal dressed in nothing but the footwear and a plain black sweater, adding to the minimalistic touch of this particular campaign. The two models presented, a mid-heeled bootie featuring an eclectic flower print and a pair of shiny, black over-knee boots also hint at the collection's diversity. With this campaign, AGL's Creative Director Vera Giusti is more than glad to reveal “a new image of the brand expressing elegance and refined luxury through the aesthetic sensibility of Bryan Adams and the intense femininity of Maggie Gyllenhaal“. We're glad that AGL's recipe to a good campaign is so short – as it is defnitely one to take note from. The campaign is a creation between AGL, Bryan Adams and ZOO Studio.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2016
It seems like after seasons of blazing colours, logo prints fast food and toy designs, Jeremy Scott has found another way to express himself. His latest Moschino Fall/Winter collection is no shy one, but definitely a retreat from the bold and buzzing statements made in the last seasons. This collections is more of an outlook back on Pop culture: it's a little Madonna, in the 80s, a little of the 2000s, a bit of Kate-Moss-street style from 2010. That speaks for the first half of the collection, at least. After half of the looks have vanished from the runway, eccentric Scott is back on track. Burning ball gowns alluding to the 15th century find their climax in a design that sports a larger-than-life chandelier that surprisingly is not the show finale. That, in fact, is maybe more Scott himself, as he struts down the runway trough the gold-framed show scenery. One thing's for sure: with Moschino, boredom is eradicated from the dictionary. He is the one to open doors to his own underground club, where Madonna, Kate Moss and all the other faces party until dawn. Or until their dresses burn. That is, if they haven't before.
Fay Fall/Winter 2016
When we think of cowgirls, the outdated cliché that most likely pops to mind is pink fringes, hot pants and knotted check blouses. Fay’s Fall/Winter collection has none of that. At Milan Fashion Week, the outerwear label presented a collection that was designed for the cool cowgirl, the one that rocks a hoedown with understatement instead of on a mechanic bull. With a color palette very much sticking to blacks, dark blues, greys and browns, the collection is ready to be worn not only in the desert but on the city sidewalk. However, it's not all gloomy western with Fay-designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Shifty floral dresses that end mid-thigh release the collection of its seriousness and add a light and very, say, “western chic”. Between that, the designs also feature allusions to other cultures, with vaguely aztec patterns reminding of even more southern inspirations. The finishing touch comes in form of glittering, fringed and embroidered party dresses, taking the selection from the saloon to the salon. Slip into one of Fay's new designs and we'll bet you, you'll never get that odd cowgirl cliché again.
Emilio Pucci F/W 16
With a green coat and a striped jacket, Emilio Pucci started its Milan Fashion Week show quite subtle. One look later though, the Italian brand went in for the big bang - and that speaks for the rest of the show. This season, no piece at Pucci goes without pattern, without fluorescent colours or newly assembled stripes. Starting with patterns that in their design recall mountaintops, the collection then went to full-on patterned looks, from chevron stripes meeting modern-art-inspired colour blocking to a mixture of camouflage and flower power creating a whole new look. Shiny tops blazing the brand name in its classic writing break up this potpourri of patterns, while plain coloured coats also give the eye a break. Emilio Pucci went in for the big bang, but we don’t mind, since that mountaintop pattern looked so good, we’re definitely fancying a ski trip now.
Photos: Monica Feudi
Mulberry F/W 16
She is a bright student, broody in her own melancholy, surrounded by heavenly pearl shimmer, a dark romantic at heart. Poetic words define the latest collection by British label Mulberry. This by no means is capriciousness, but lies in the inspiration of the brand's new creative director Johnny Coca. For his first Mulberry F/W creations, the designer was inspired by no other than William Shakespeare. It's his ability to capture every stream of society, from royalty to nobody that Coca admires and therefore translated into his new collection, along with inspiration from the contrast of London streets. The result is a clothing range defined by contradictions. Sharp tailoring meets pure femininity; soft pleats are fused with bold cuff details. Johnny Coca is testing his limits, but always holds onto the British soul. Majestic, big-collared capes go along soft tulle dresses and luxury knitwear. Details such as an overload of rings allude to royal influences, while on the other hand variously sized buttons suggest functionality. May the poetic inspirations to this collection be recited often, as for Mulberry, to be or not to be is out of question.
CHANEL SS16 Eyewear
It’s doesn’t even last a minute, but the new CHANEL eyewear campaign literally flashes you. The mini moving image is defined by flashing blue lights, creating an iridescent atmosphere that recalls both ambulance sirens and dance club nights. Amidst this lightshow sits no one other than CHANEL’s favorite associate Cara Delevingne, sporting a simple hat and, of course, the prominent sunglasses. While the glasses themselves allude to the look of a mirror mask, their special trait is the “quilted” border, created by laser cut fabrication. It is those lines that breathe more CHANEL into the sunglasses than into any pair ever before. Wear them to the club or on the high-street - these glasses will have the attention flashed at you just like the lights flash at Cara.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2016
She’s a lady, her style is feminine. She’s a lady, her style is high-end. She’s a lady, she wears BOSS. For the latest Fall/Winter designs, BOSS’ art director Jason Wu put the spot on supreme femininity. Don’t think girlish, playful themes – Wu picks up his path with curvy lines that enhance the female silhouette and effortlessly create an immaculate look. Manufactured by dedicated craftsman hands, the collection lines up an impressive assortment of high-quality materials such as felt, satin, mesh and bouclé. It is Wu’s strength to combine these clashing fabrics into elaborate designs. He takes on that by finding surprising inspiration in modern architecture, which equips the softer designs with still precise hems and edges. The colors float upon another wave, ranging from hot pink to cinnamon tones, natural green, beiges while simultaneously covering a large scale of female tastes. It is precision with fragility that BOSS presented at New York Fashion Week, for the woman that is fierce with just a little bit of floral. She’s a lady, and she doesn’t only wear BOSS. She is boss.
Alexander Wang RTW F/W 2016
St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February: Marijuana leaves, pole dancers and chained leather are assembled in the church aisles. Coming from every angle are words like “strict”, “tender”, “girls”, “faded” and “violator”. This scenery is by far no church service, but the presentation of Alexander Wang’s latest Fall/Winter designs. Displaying garments anything but holy, the designer sent down the runway rebellious garments that set upon the popular “sloganeering”. Hats, sweatshirts, dresses and tights call out the aforementioned key words in this collection, crossing over both mens – and womenswear. Going along with that are fuzzy sweaters as much as see-through tops and dresses and more classic tweed ensembles. Still, Wang takes on a little bit of Prep with reinvented Argyle sweaters (with exposing parts, of course) and a checkered coat in menswear. Although we’re not sure what the priest would say about this, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February, the applause spoke for itself.
Wind and Rain: Woolrich S/S 2016
With their latest campaign, Woolrich is set. Set for wind, set for rain, set for almost every weather change the Spring/Summer season can hold. Shot by artistic photographer Paolo Ventura, the visuals take the models through a climate change that is displayed by fake painted panels. They pose clad in the latest Woolrich designs, showcasing both mens – and womenswear. For his now fourth collaboration with the brand, Paolo Ventura chose to narrate stories within each picture, equipping the models with accessories that are not part of the collection. At first glance, the fishing rod, helmet or binoculars may be startling, but they do inspire the viewer to enhance the pictures with stories in mind. The fashion designs meanwhile range from light quilted jackets to dark trench coats in womenswear and elegant anoraks and vests in menswear. Woolrich presents itself summery – but also weatherproof. And that, in fact, is not a wild fashion imagination. Even though the campaign might show fake climates, Woolrich takes the Spring/Summer season as few do: realistic.
RedValentino Spring/Summer Campaign feat. Birdy
She’s the girl with the angel voice, the delicate songstress that made hits at an age where others were concerned with anything but landing record deals: Birdy. Now, the 19-year old British singer has been tapped for a fashion campaign. Valentino sublabel REDValentino cast the singer as their new testimonial. The scenery takes her to London’s Edwardian theater Bush Hall. In the dimly-lit setting, Birdy moves like the grande dame, or as Valentino puts it, a modern-day Marie Antoinette. Never dropping her ethereal and dreamy attitude, she poses on a piano in shiny black gear or takes the stage dressed in a floral see-through dress. “I love the enchanted world of REDValentino and the romantic dresses that have always been associated with the brand, so I was delighted to be part of this collaboration and to have my music in the campaign” Birdy gushed over the campaign. By her music she means her song Winter playing in the background, supporting the both romantic and magical atmosphere. Least to say, we’re enchanted, too.
The campaign is launched exclusively on www.redvalentino.com.
Eastpak X Tim Coppens
Over time, high fashion has encountered many unusual and unexpected collaborators. At New York Men's Fashion Week, it was once again met with another surprising category: backpacks. For his F/W collection, designer Tim Coppens teamed up with no other brand than classic backpack manufacturer Eastpak. The American brand, which has defined the backs of many on their way to school and university and the designer have previously collaborated for Eastpaks Artist Studio line. The 2016 rucksack line is the first collection of the collaborators after the work on the studio. Presented during Coppens' show at NYMFW, the collection consists of bags that are constructed from a lot of influences. Just like Eastpak, Coppens finds his inspiration in international youth cultures. The new designs carry everything (metaphorically and literally) : traits of Japanese street wear, technical materials, unexpected color combinations met with western influences and finest craftsmanship. Available only as a limited edition, the collection presents backpacks in four colors, made from high-quality leather and adorned with contrasting lacing. Mesh inserts give the necessary sporty touch while an easy-to-handle top flap makes space for all belongings. Eastpak is no longer seen on the way to school, but on the way to rule the cat – and sidewalk.
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
Icosae F/W 16
Take the cash and run – a thought than some of us might encounter more than once in life. For Icosae, it’s the title to their latest F/W 16 designs, shown at Paris Fashion Week. They took the cash and ran, ran through time in particular. The designers drew inspiration from a vast pool of media and youth cultures. From groups like London suede heads to the techno music generation, they extracted inspiration from music, photography, drawing, sculpting and mostly paintings. The result is a balance between realism and just enough abstraction that ends up in a deconstruction of tailoring proportions. Asymetrical shapes mark this collection just as much as the dark colors that underline the urban atmosphere. Take the cash and run – but only dressed in Icosae.
Dior Homme Show & Dinner F/W 16/17
At the Dior Homme Show, the atmosphere was one to be taken in slowly. Red lights met skate parks and let the models waltz through the venue surrounded by larger-than-life video installations. The collection itself took on the “very rouge” vibe of the scenography, working several red tones either in small or large-scale checks combined with dark colors and eccentric black-and-white prints. Monochrome flower prints went along with detailed knitwear patterns and smaller millefleur print. To finish off the special occasion, Dior continued the show with a celebrity-attended exclusive dinner at the Paris Museum of Modern Art. Fascinating clothes followed up by fancy food? What a night!
Lemaire Fall/Winter 16/17
At Lemaire’s menswear presentation, dark colors and very classic cuts were in store. The label presented a menswear wardrobe perfectly suitable for its wearers daily business. Classic single and double -breasted coats were featured next to simple jackets with oversized pockets and slim-cut blazers. Paired with a sophisticated black cape and baggy pleated trousers, the outerwear makes for a contemporary look that the Lemaire man can take on a business meeting, a date, or just pop out for a drink in. It’s versatility that makes good clothing, and we thank Lemaire for delivering just that.
ODEUR F/W 16/17
ODEUR’s designers Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger once again showcased a dramatic yet relaxed collection. Exactly just how they pull it off is their trade secret, but for FW 16/17 they have once again struck proverbial gold in black and white. Hints of Yves Klein blue and boxy black an white patterns livened up the epic battle of night and day, good vs. evil. ODEUR’s pieces are inherently Nordic cool; each one ready for an impromptu street style photograph without trying to hard. Crisp, layered shirts paired with cropped bottoms and oversized sweaters sound overwhelming. Here they just work. Men in tunics and dresses? Sounds costume-y, but oh boy does it work. The sporty unisex designs live off of their restraint, and work on both the male and female form, never overpowering the model or being vulgar. For FW16/17 ODEUR once again managed to add to the timeless cool kid uniform.
Philomena Zanetti F/W 16/17
There are a lot of places to escape our busy everyday life. Sunny beaches or abandoned southern islands, for example. Julia Seifert, lead designer of Philomena Zanetti, opted for an alternative. Her latest designs, presented at Berlin Fashion Week, are inspired by the coastal landscapes of Ireland. Naturally, the collection thus fuses shades of grey, green and brown. Soft silhouettes and cocoon-like cuts shield the wearer from the increasing pace of everyday life and suggest comfort by reflecting on the serenity of nature. Now, whenever booking the next weekend escape, you might consider the Green Island instead of a southern one. It could be just as comforting.
KENZO Fall 16/17
To find inspiration for their latest collection, KENZO designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon lived the jet set life. Multiple journeys to japan and numerous concerts are base to their F/W 16/17 designs. Therefore, Japanese culture in its entirety, but especially music and concerts play a distinctively important part: the new KENZO collection is an ode in itself, an ode to music, an ode to fans, and to positivity. Leon and Lim were fascinated by the unique connection between musicians and their fanbase and wanted to emphasize the feeling of positivity that is harbored by a concert crowd. But how does one translate such a feeling into clothing? KENZO does by creating a relaxed look with a nevertheless slim silhouette. Comfortable wool pants combined with faux crocodile leather jackets melt the cool and the eccentric, the latter supported by a mix of psychedelic prints. Attention to detail is key, with peace-symbol buttons and the KENZO founder signature used as embellishment completing a vast collection. What to do now? Check for plane tickets to Japan. Or at least for a concert ticket. Or both. Jet set is on!
Xavi Reyes FW 16/17
The Spaniard followed the call of Berlin’s capital to present his FW 16/17 collection during MBFWB, while the key players of this season’s official campaign, Natasha Poly, Atsuko Kudo and Jeff Barks had flocked to the front row from their previous Fashion Talk to take in the unisex designs. Combining the masculine and the feminine, futurism and tradition in edgy cuts, asymmetry, muted hues and free silhouettes. Inspired by his home, the Extremadura, he breaks melancholy severity with romantic elements such as white embroidered lace, flounces and oriental patterns oh so typical for the southern Spanish region.
Dries Van Noten: Peacock and Psychedelic F/W 16
Dries Van Noten’s latest collection is quite well defined by its own accessories. Listen up, and create your own image of it: Army style marching boots, classic city and dress shoes, faux fur coat collars worn as shawls and, last but not least, golf shoe tassles worn separately. Such a summary of deconstructed, estranged characteristics applies to the whole collection. This season, the Dries Van Noten man is a modern day peacock that displays his feathers with pride. Besides that, there is some psychedelic jugendstil displayed. The Van Noten wearer is an iconoclast that carries his very own uniform. Still, uniforms have also soaked into this collection. Insignia of regalia are ripped off and embellished onto the wardrobe of an iconic man. Bullions are worn as badges of ornament – restraint is not on the menu for Van Noten these days. Far more, he is all about deconstruction: clothing construction is subverted and the silhouettes, materials and colors mix in an open-minded assembly. Forms of formality of the sartorial are met with the oversized, robust uniform wools go along with silk jacquards, fine cashmere and velvet. The colors also spill broadly, from classic, to military, to outright flamboyant. Today, with Dries Van Noten, we’re not just us. We’re like a peacock. Only with this collection, each of our feathers looks different.
Marina Hoermanseder Lifts Off for F/W 2016
Amelia Earheart without a doubt was one of the most impressive women in this world. Flying across the Atlantic Ocean as the first woman to do so, she has established a legend-status that has been mentioned across various media for years. What stands out in all of this coverage is her imperturbable passion and bravery. Marina Hoermanseder takes that as an inspiration for her F/W 16/17 collection. Inevitably, the garments mirror Earhart’s looks in form of flight jackets, pleat-fronted trousers and hooded coats. Female self-determination meets subtle, masculine notes. Hoermanseder’s woman is independent and displays her femininity in a charming way. Embroidered embellishments and shiny buckles add both a functional and fashionable touch. These details support the use of premium leather and make the looks a high-end “avion” style. Without a doubt, Amelia Earheart was one of the most impressive women in this world. And we’re quite sure she would have felt pretty good in this gear.
G-Star RAW Celebrates
For G-Star, the 20th anniversary of their most famous denim design must feel like the growing up of the first-born child. Elwood 5620, the brand's most revolutionary and cult piece, turns 20 this year. Thus, in celebration spirits, G-Star has decided to do what maybe separates this celebration from a normal child's birthday: they're throwing an all-year party. At the end of every month, a new Limited Edition design of the Elwood 5620 will be revealed. Among these editions will be collaborations with artists and former G-Star cooperators. And it has already kicked off: for January, the G-Star Elwood Moto was released, homage to the Enduro races that took place until the late 1960s. The original Elwood 5620 model was released back in 1996, as the first denim pants to feature 3D-denim technology and a design unique to its name. Until now, the Elwood has stayed relevant to G-Star and has become a brand DNA of sorts. As the cherry on top of the birthday celebrations, Ellen Von Unwerth shot a special SS16 campaign only dedicated to the pants. Any birthday wishes left? We don't think so.
Leaves of Stone: Guiseppe Penone at Gagosian Hong Kong
January 21st, 2016 marks the start of the first ever Hong Kong exhibition of Italian artist Guiseppe Penone. “Foglie di Pietra/Leaves of Stone” displays key works from the past decade. The exhibition's title was inspired by the eponymous art piece from 2013: a series of sculptures made of bronze tree branches and found fragments of eighteenth century ornamental stonework that on the other hand were also inspired by vegetal forms. This interdependence is no rare occurrence in Penone’s work: especially the tree and its relationship to man seem to be an inexhaustible source of inspiration. In a work phase of over 40 years, Penone has assembled a splendid collection of art works on his CV. His pieces mark the persistence of biological life while reimagining nature in the artificial way. “Leaves of Stone” is set to run until March 21, 2016. The opening reception will be held on the opening date from 6-8 pm.
GUCCI’s Poetic Reactivation: Men’s F/W 16
Every time Alessandro Michele takes a step, the fashion world vibrates. His every move is a burst of creativity, a glittering bomb exploding with past, present and future inside. Alessandro Michele is the fashion epitome of Alice in Wonderland’s hat maker, not crazy, but creative, his work always immensely layered but unique in it’s own ways. For GUCCI, he presents one multifaceted collection after the other. With the latest GUCCI menswear designs Michele followed his own path while establishing a new interpretation of time. The collection, titled “Poetic Reactivation”, refers to our system of past and memory as incorrect. Michele wants to explore memory as an interpretative and poetic field, while destroying pieces of the past at the same time. The idea of an inexorably finished past is eradicated, but the collection still is an “assemblage” of fragments from preceding decades and centuries. It’s complex, but so is GUCCI, and so is the collection. You never have enough space to go through it. GUCCI itself describes it as an “excess of sense”. How true, we couldn’t have put it better.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2016
Ermenigildo Zegna Couture steps up to its name at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, making a proud statement of cutting-edge couture tailoring with the leading motif of “embellishment”. Now, embellishment doesn’t primarily refer to the clothing, but to the idea behind it. For this collection, Stefano Pilati focused on the current zeitgeist of self-advertising and the need to distinguish. In other words: embellishment. He transfers this into a sophisticated, rather fearless wardrobe defined by the exhibition of patterns. Masculine motifs are fused with the lushness of the fabrics, which emphasizes once again the “couture” attitude. Nevertheless, embellishment DOES also refer to the fabrics. They are adorned with three dimensional hand embroideries, ornamental motifs and woven patchwork of jacquard patterns. The result is a collection with elegance, unregulated in its formality, embodying the classic Zegna attitude. Embellished, and established!
New DKNY Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
The new year is only two weeks old, but most of us have probably forgotten about our New Year’s resolutions already. DKNY certainly has not, as it must have been one of their resolutions to introduce the new year with their SS16 advertising campaign. Captured by Lachlan Bailey, in it Adrienne Juliger poses as the embodiment of the new DKNY woman: powerful, nuanced and complex. This year, her actions speak louder than her clothes, which let her be herself in every way, every day. Thus, the clothes are a collection of simple, minimalist designs featuring the key colors black and white. Straight cutting goes along with high-end, clean accessories and gives the DKNY woman the space to bounce through everyday life with strength. The campaign is the first to be released under the lead of new Creative Directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. Along with new designs, the brand also presents a new graphic logo, which is layered in big, bold letters over the pictures. The new year may only be two weeks old, but for DKNY, this resolution can already be crossed off the list.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Emporio Armani gets it moving: the images for their latest SS16 campaign are in, and they are anything but static. Captured by Lachlan Bailey in the buzzing streets of Barcelona, models Luna Bijl and Filip Hrivnak are shown in physically demanding poses, posing as the fierce, self-confident woman or the ever-charismatic gentleman. Bailey used a telephoto lens, usually known from nature photography, to capture the spontaneity and dynamism even more. The visuals convey a message of utter coolness and suggest that for Emporio Armani, the most thrilling summer lies ahead. The general look is a classic take on minimalist coolness, but some garments with graphic elements stir up the sophistication with a little irony. And for those who adore the Emporio Armani accessories, the campaign also has watches and eyewear in store. Now, if January makes you feel drained and moody right now, just look ahead to a dynamic summer – Emporio Armani will show you how.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Louis Vuitton and Al Dente: "LV & Me"
Louis Vuitton is here to teach us the alphabet again. Only this time, it’s the Louis Vuitton alphabet. For their new jewellery collection, the fashion house teamed up with Paris creative agency Al Dente to create a campaign that explores all the letters – from A to Z, quite literally. Designed by Camille Micheli, “LV & Me” encapsulates bold silver and gold jewellery, focusing on letters to be assembled freely. An interactive digital capsule, supported by a 1970’s song by Amanda Lear, leads the campaign. As she intonates in her unique style nonchalant confessions as “G stands for getting divorced”, Lear takes the viewer through both alphabet and collection. The movie has also been duplicated in 7 videos and can be viewed below and on the Louis Vuitton website. There, jewellery fans can take on their own spelling bee as they create their personalised video featuring Lear’s explanations. Users are encouraged to share their experience across Social Media, where teasers and photos will also be spread. Getting to the final letter, Lear’s voice tells us: “Z is for the zero you will get, if you don’t learn my alphabet.” We’re on it, we are.
Valentino Takes To The Desert
Savanna. Vast landscapes. A sprinkle of trees, some wood branches scattered around. Amidst that: Valentino models. The brand broke out on a journey to the desert in their latest SS16 campaign. Shot by award-winning photographer Steve McCurry, the pictures show models pose arranged statically in the desert breeze, presenting the latest Valentino designs with the straight approach of reality. The images are set to be sincere and depict the exact moment they were taken. McCurry, who is renown for his reportages published in National Geographic, was chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for his exceptional ability to create stories through his images. With this collection, the two also want to stress the fact that fashion carries the ability to express the necessity and creation of new aesthetic and ethical perceptions.. “We strongly believe that garments have the ability to be a vehicle in affirming concepts and that fashion has the task of expressing new demands. That is why we wanted to carry the essence of this collection in the place where the idea was born.” That birthplace is Amboseli Park in Kenya, inhabited by the Masai people, who are also featured in some of the campaign’s shots.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016
This year, acting and fashion seem to go together better than ever. While Prada has appointed three young actors as their new testimonials, sister brand Miu Miu also once again enlists upcoming actresses as their new campaign faces. For the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign, international screen newcomers Millie Brady, Julia Garner, Matilda Lutz and India Salvor Menuez pose as the new Miu Miu woman. The visuals have a straightforward, uncoded message and were shot by no other than the brand's long-time creative partner Steven Meisel. The collection itself features a diversity of colors and materials. Greys and taupes intercut with maroon, gold and blue while materials like tweed, satin and leather are also used simultaneously. It is with no difficulty that one can sketch an image of this new Miu Miu woman: the risk-taker, the iconoclast, creatively intelligent with a rebellious sense of fashion. Looking to define that in one word? We'd say impeccable.
Bottega Veneta: The Art of Collaboration SS16
Bottega Veneta has taken us to quite the special exhibition space in their latest SS16 visuals. Consisting of a short film and photos, the campaign was shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in the sculpture gardens of the Kröller-Müller Museum in The Netherlands. Models Mica Arganaraz and Sven DeVries playfully wander about Jean Dubuffet’s sculpture “Jardin d’émail”, taking in the world around them. The showcased collection features colorful designs in both womens- and menswear. Shiny red tones and detailed prints define the designs for Her, while He stays casual with outdoor- and streetwear inspirations. These inspirations can also be traced in Sassen’s photography. As a photographer, the artist prefers to shoot outside. For this campaign, she focused on contrast, color and texture. As a result, the models turn into performing sculptures, creating instant art in the sculpture garden. Sassen is not the first to shoot a campaign for Bottega’s Art of Collaborations. It was instituted as a creative partnership between the brand’s Creative Director Tomas Maier and renowned artists such as Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh and Juergen Teller. We’ll be excited for the next one.
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Este Arte – International Contemporary Art Fair
Kicking off on January 5th, Punta del Este in Uruguay will once again host the “Este Arte” Fair, an international event dedicated to both historical avant-gardes and contemporary artists. Following the success of the fair’s last edition, it will once again feature a varied palette of events and exhibitions. Art lovers will find nearly any form of art displayed, ranging from paintings and sculptures to photographs and videos. In addition, Este Arte will present a cultural agenda that enables a dialogue among artists, collectors, critics and curators. Set to run every year, the event was installed to be a cultural landmark in the South American art system and to empower both institutional and private collections. The fair opens it’s doors with a VIP preview on January 5th and will be open to the public from 6pm to 11pm on the remaining days. Well, why not start the new year with a trip to Uruguay?
A VERY MERRY SPECIAL TUNE – MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM ZOO
Christmas is nothing without a good soundtrack. Therefore, we at ZOO created a unique YouTube playlist for you to listen to – wherever you are in the world. It includes everything from kitsch classics to unexpected renditions from HipHop and Rock artists. Enjoy!
Givenchy Launches SS 16 Campaign
New York, I love you! This declaration has become the inspiration for Ricardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy creation. The Spring/Summer 2016 campaign is his personal “Love card” to the city. Shot by Mert & Marcus in, of course, Manhattan, the campaign indeed focuses on love and our personal relationships. Following the three main messages Love, Gang and Family, the imagery features group photos of both new faces and Givenchy veterans. Clustered under the Manhattan sky, they present signature black & white looks with timeless elements such as lace and pinstripes. And, to reference love again, each picture is decorated with a handwritten quote by singer Anohni: “I am a child on the river and love waits downstream, a waterfall to steal my breath and change my mind”. Ricardo, we love you, too.
Burberry Unveils New SS16 Campaign
Since Burberry premiered its festive campaign with emerging British talents earlier this year, it seems like time has flown by. The next campaign, Spring Summer 2016, is out and again features the promising talents of tomorrow. This time, only, they originate from the fashion scene. The latest designs are being premiered by future faces such as models Hayett Belarbi McCarthy, Misha Hart, May & Ruth Bell and many more. Shot by Mario Testino in London, the “cast” of this new campaign reflects the attitude of the new collection – energetic and vibrant. Featured in their first ever Snapchat campaign in October, the ready-to-wear pieces center around one new key item: the Burberry rucksack. For this new accessory, Christopher Bailey and his team dug deep into the archives and found inspiration the military section from the early 20th century. The new product is a lightweight carryall with a soft structure and multi-zip pocket added for functionality. Functionality is also the theme behind the new womenswear designs: “Functionregalia” links regalia elements with function clothing. The menswear collection follows a similar path: sartorial clothing is mixed with unconventional elements. All of this does not neglect the key Burberry items: trench coats, scarves, ponchos – it’s all there and frankly, it wouldn’t be Burberry without them. With each collection, the British brand proves once more that tradition in no way equals boredom: whether it’s materials, shapes or colors – Burberry’s reinvention is endless. If only time wouldn’t fly by so fast.
© Copyright Burberry/Testino
LOEWE FOUNDATION x Miami Beach Art Basel
What do a black cup, an oil painting and a chair made of legs have in common? They’re historical and contemporary art pieces, displayed in the exhibition “Chance Encounter”, hosted by the LOEWE FOUNDATION within the context of this year’s Miami Beach Art Basel. Curated by LOEWE’s very own creative director Jonathan Anderson, the exhibition evaluates the disruptive beauty of the chance encounter by creating unexpected conversations between the works of four British artists: Lucie Rie, Rose Wylie, Anthea Hamilton and Paul Nash. This set up will create new images, connect ideas and act as a convergence of past, present and future. A main point among these movements also is to give this art exchange time, as the exhibition is set to “slow things down”. “Chance Encounter” can be visited until January 17th at the LOEWE store in Miami’s Design District.
Björk Premieres Music Video for Mouth Mantra
Icelandic singer Björk takes viewers inside her own mouth in her latest music video. “Mouth Mantra” is taken from her album “Vulnicura” and reportedly focuses on a vocal surgery Björk had to face. “I was not heard”, she exclaims in the lyrics, to later conclude: “I am not hurt”. The accompanying visuals to “Mouth Mantra” now give fans an insight into Björk’s throat. Starting off with a zoom-in on a pink tongue, the video then moves to distorted images inside the whole mouth. Further on, the artist herself is seen dancing in a bodysuit, decorated with white straps. Dark backgrounds and dimmed light create the mysterious atmosphere that has defined the singer’s work for years. Safe to say that with this one, Björk, you will be heard.
Milan’s Fondazione Prada Presents “Recto Verso” Exhibition
Organized by the Fondazione Prada Thought council, i.e. Shumon Basar, Elvira Dyangani Ose, Cédric Libert and Dieter Roelstraete, this exhibition involves the work from artists over two centuries. In an exploration opposing the Western art tradition of perceiving paintings as frontal (“recto”) artifacts rather than back (“verso”), meaning that the front carries more cultural value, this collection of works reverse this system. For instance, Sarah Charlesworth uses double-exposure photography to emphasize the presented object’s structural properties, whereas Pierre Toby uses glass as his canvas to reveal the back of the painting. Other works in the exhibition incorporate the “trompe-l’œil” technique, bringing focus to the frame rather than the image, whilst Pierre Buraglio and Daniel Dezeuze skip the entire picture plane and leave only support material. Other works in the gallery continue with these themes of reverse and reveal.
“Recto Verso” is on exhibition in the Fondazione Prada Nord Gallery, Milan, from December 3, 2015, to February 14, 2016.
The HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award 2015 Winner is Announced
Maria Taniguchi has been crowned winner of the 2015 HUGO BOSS ASIA ART Award for Emerging Artists with a tidy ¥300,000 award. Narrowly missing out were the five other nominated artists, Guan Xiao, Huang Po-?Chih, Moe Satt, Vandy Rattana and Yang Xinguang, who are exhibited their works alongside Taniguchi at the Rockbund Art Museum (RAM) until January 3, 2016. Marc Le Mat, the Managing Director of HUGO BOSS CHINA RETAIL CO. LTD, and Larys Frogier, RAM Director, announced the Philippines artist as the winner in light of her extraordinary paintings, sculptures and videos investigating time and space with social and historical contexts.
BOSS, Bauhaus, Bespoke
The last director of the Bauhaus movement once said, “The Bauhaus was no an institution. It was an idea. An idea as readily applied to clothing as to buildings – architecture for the body”.
It’s no surprise that BOSS Creative Director Jason Wu has had a long-standing admiration of the Bauhaus movement. Its rigorous geometric lines form the basis of many a post-2014 BOSS collection, after Wu has combined such Bauhaus principles with the BOSS DNA of exceptional precise menswear tailoring to create a new look for the modern woman.
Now Wu looks to this artistic movement again, and draws inspiration from the Bauhaus artwork of Josef Albers and Wassily Kandinsky in his new interpretation of the classic BOSS Bespoke handbag. With a dramatic yet simplistic aesthetic, the vibrant palette of the Modernist “intarsia” bag is patterned in various luxurious materials, such as suede, box-calf and embossed lizard and crocodile prints…if Wu’s time at BOSS could be summed up in one item, it would have to be this one.
Public School Pre-Fall 2016
In their international debut, Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have taken a break from NYC and flocked to Dubai, courtesy of iconic motor company Cadillac XT5, to show their Pre-Fall Collection. It seems quite fitting then that the designer’s inspiration for this line, which they are presenting in a desert’s built up city, are the disparate themes of technology versus nature. Osborne and Chow’s signature long silhouette of tunics for either gender take on a definite ethnic feeling in these surroundings, heightened by their accompanying kimono inspired jackets and reinterpretations of Japanese Shibori prints. Injecting the urban undertone that these designers have made their name on are layered loose knits and a lot of mesh.
Good Gils Gone Bad
With Steven Meisel behind the camera, Prada unveil their Resort 2016 advertising campaign. Informal portraits of Lexi Boling, Meghan Collison, Ina Jensen, Lineisy Montero, Julia Nobis and Greta Varlese show the muses in front of a minimal, industrial backdrop, accentuating their “bad girl” edge with their intense gazes and cool body language.
The clothes themselves echo post-pop art with decorative oversized earrings, printed multi-coloured bags and layered leather shifts, clingy printed sweaters and striped sleeves. High impact pieces are based on the simple T-shirt with soft silhouettes in an exploration of post-modesty and luxury…the Prada woman should expect the unexpected if planning to fall down this rabbit hole.
Say Goodbye to Blood Diamonds
“All human beings are born free and equal in dignity”. It was December 10, 1948 when the U.N. proclaimed in Paris the “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” (UDHR). However, there are countless places in the world where basic, personal rights are not respected in any way.
Gilardy Jewels aim to tackle this head on and produce beautiful jewelry that does not come with the usual price tag of someone else’s integrity. In celebration of the UDHR, they create timeless pieces to be worn by everyone, from anywhere on any occasion, whilst supporting various organizations that fight for human rights, such as Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. The Gilardy Human Rights collection consists of rings, charms, wristbands and bracelets, all made in a robust stainless steel. Free of nickel, this jewelry is extremely dermatologically friendly and its rings and engravings are manufactured by fairly employing disabled workers. Furthermore, for every ring or chain sold from the collection, Gilardy Jewels donate 5€ to the “Human Rights Watch" Organisation, for every bracelet they donate 3€. All in all, this unique label is giving their wearers something to be proud about, fine handcrafted jewelry that is complete with a conscious.
October 21, 2015, saw Terranova and Brixton’s finest Stereo MC’s team up to launch “Connected” – a label primarily for contemporary electronic music. In joining the venture, the Cologne-based electro music label Kompakt act as distributors. With a focus on quality, vinyl records accompany digital releases, artworks are fresh and original, whilst a platform is provided for music artists to bounce ideas of each other and cultivate something really special in their sound.
To mark this occasion and as a symbol of a long, productive working relationship between Terranova and Stereo MC’s, they’ve created “connected 001”, a limited edition product package, available axclusively at No.74 or www.connected.co.com. Included in this is a logo-printed sweatshirt complete with lettering by Berlin-based artist Carsten Fock. There is also a USB stick, with Terranova’s dubversion of “connected” by the Stereo MC’s and an hour long DJ mix…Could you ask for more?
On December 4, 2015, the label will release their first record by the two founders, before an album of the same nature and a number of songs from likeminded artists…Exciting stuff!
BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks: Staging Situations: Art and Theatre
In an exploration between the relationship of art and theatre, Tate Modern presents a varied program of events as part of this year’s BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks. An ongoing partnership for four years now, the BMW Tate Live brings focus to innovative performances with interdisciplinary art, digitalized spaces, seminars and workshops.
Inspired by the performance “BMW Tate Live: Paulina Olowska The Mother An Unsavoury Play in Two Acts and an Epilogue”, artists, curators, actors, theatre directors and writers come together to offer the public a chance to engage in the day’s events. Events in this year’s series include “Absence and Hope", led by theatre maker Rachel Mars, whilst the visual artist Kate Tiernan and theatre director Katie Mitchell lead “Rehearsal: Words and Gestures”, a workshop exploring body language as communication. Using the gallery as a stage for live performances, speeches, choreography and dramatizations, this really is a unique way to get involved.
The "BMW Tate Live 2015 Talks: Staging Situations: Art and Theatre" events occur on 31 October, 2015, from 11.00-22.00 at the Tate Modern, London.
Dior Homme Unveils New Parisian Store
Following their romanticized “Paris XVIE” campaign featuring Boyd Holbrook, Dior Homme have opened a brand new boutique for their menswear line at 24 Rue François 1er.
Across two floors, its beautiful interior design blends ideologies of modernism and elegance with tradition with pioneering innovation. Executed in a minimal palette of black leather and wood, Dior grey and white, the store provides a tranquil setting with impressive light reflective resin structures that bridge the gap between outside and in. Available in store will be all collections designed by Kris Van Assche as well as a space for custom orders.
The boutique even offers an exclusive made-to-measure, home-visit service by the label’s tailoring atelier…The Dior Homme’s shopping experience couldn’t get more enjoyable than this.
Espace Louis Vuitton München Presents “Predestined Colour Waves” - Sheila Hicks
In Germany’s first monographic exhibition of Paris-based, American artist Sheila Hicks since 1970, the Espace Louis Vuitton München is pleased to host “Predestined Colour Waves”. With colour, texture and structure providing her primary interests, Hicks’ work consists of hand-woven miniatures, mid-size bas-relief panels, soft sculptures and monumental installations. With a background of Modernism and knowledge of historical textiles, Hicks pushes to investigate new cultures by means of painting, photography and especially architecture.
The current exhibition documents Hicks’ long-standing conversation with architecture and presents the impressive large-scale installations “Alterrissage” (2014) and “La Femma Principale Bluma” (2015). Not only this, but the collection of works also involve Sydney Biennale Sketches (2015), part of her contribution to the 2016 event, and prototype models of her 1967 Ford Foundation silk bas-relief tapestries, which were recreated in 2013-14, among other artworks.
Espace Louis Vuitton München exhibits “Predestined Colour Waves” from artist Sheila Hicks from October 8, 2015, until January 23, 2016.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The virtual age is taking over and Louis Vuitton is yet another label this season choosing to comment. Unlike his contemporaries however, Nicolas Ghesquière’s opinion is not one of doom or disaster but ferocity and strength.
Absorbed in a cyberspace setting, the look was digital and fierce. Military inspired leather jackets worn with metal textured mini skirts and chained platform sandals introduced a new wave of punks. Patchwork trousers with silver zippers reappeared throughout the show in various forms, whilst beaded knitwear provided a kind of protective armour.
The classic Louis Vuitton print was splashed sparingly on jacket sleeves whilst the ruched drawstring bag in look 45 proved a real stand out in the accessories and no doubt a must have this season.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It’s clean lines, geometric shapes and sleek silhouettes at Hermès this season.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski recovered the label’s heritage in bringing back leather once again this season in various midi length skirts, coats and dresses. Trainers appearing in white, blue, ochre yellow and red will surely prove to be a hit in store, not to mention the tailored longline coats.
Oversized stone jewelry adds drama to the understated collection, whilst Vanhee-Cybulski’s beautiful palette of colors elevates this understated collection to the height of Spring/Summer elegance.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Announce New Womenswear Campaign
The values of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s label explore functionality within the urban context of street wear. Primarily concerned in protecting the curvatures and geometric angles of the human body, Saberi adopts innovative techniques when experimenting with fabrics, reimagining and rearranging in a destructured style. Previously only creating menswear lines, this campaign presents the growing prominence of the women’s collection for the brand in an exclusive preview on our ZOO Magazine site.
The Spring/Summer 2016 Collections combine aspects of two fundamentally different worlds, work wear versus deep-sea diving suits. Inspired by the construction of neoprene suits, Saberi reimagines some of the label’s most signature looks using organic materials in a wholly novel light. The sheer inquisitive nature of the luxury fashion brand, along with high quality tailoring and handcrafted passion, means for an inspiring collection composed of forward-thinking creativity.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Lo-fi, sci-fi” is John Galliano’s latest collection for Maison Margiela. An eclectic assortment of references, the designer’s otherworldly show saw the union of the vintage 50s, a futuristic space age and traditional Japan.
A turquoise beehive, leopard print collar 50s style coat and silver make up à la Pat McGrath; it began with a psychedelic bang. Next came fishnet limbs, appliqued glass fragments with an over layer of mesh. All oddly ready to wear for Galliano, we were later introduced to his reinterpretation of kimonos. Liquid-look skirts dripping in applique grazed the ankles and appeared among beautiful prints and obis in creating kimono-style silhouettes… This enthralling collection has the Galliano stamp all over it and it is spectacular.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection
Consolidating the label’s partnership with Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Angelo Ruggeri has named her as a main source of inspiration for his current, Bohemian chic Sergio Rossi collection.
In having a vintage moment with the Italian footwear brand, classic 1970s clogs are reworked into wedges that display intricate patterns contrasting the rich appearances of wood and cork. Ruggeri contrasts these chunky shapes with delicate stilettos and flats, whilst also creating a stylistic juxtaposition between day and night; eccentricity and minimalism. The line, exuding Summer and optimism, is realized in a mainly neutral palette with a multicolor camouflage effect adding excitement. With the adoption of strings, embroidered thread and crochet patterns in the unique designs, we are left with a beautiful collection embodying creativity and femininity.
Versace Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Refuting the retro looks we are seeing all over Milan at the moment, Donatella Versace is making a stand for her name and bringing back sexy into the world of fashion.
Her beautifully tailored army jackets and waistcoats that cinch into the waist with a Versace crested belt are teamed with chunky platform sandals and pulled up khaki socks to ooze sex appeal and her feeling of the moment; female empowerment.
Then come the snakeskin effect fabrics, the camo-meets-animal print, the sheer shirts and slit skirts. Donatella is defiant in her vision of Versace… And it proves to be iconic.
Blumarine Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
A jewel encrusted, court-studded, floral print explosion of sheer netting, draped fabrics and relaxed jackets is occurring at Blumarine this season. Anna Molinari has let her imagination run wild and created a collection in which two worlds collide, those of surrealism and reality.
Take billowing satins or sheer printed skirts against simplistic ribbed jumpers and oversized coats. This fusion of ornate decoration and modern minimalism creates a look of ethereal elegance finding its feet in an urban world.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
In his third season at the label, Rodolfo Paglialunga has reworked the classic Jil Sander principles. Blazers are slashed, a coat deconstructed to embody an overlaying dress with the signature shirt cut and twisted into a new contemporary idea.
There is the odd flash of color, an asymmetric neckline and a vacant shoulder strap, with a buckle motif cropping up above the footwear and unexpectedly on silk dresses at the end of the show. The collection is undoubtedly minimalistic, as all Jil Sander should be.
Moschino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a construction site as the backdrop, an actual car wash that sprayed bubbles and a road-runway, no prizes for guessing the whacky theme of the current season with Jeremy Scott, “carwash couture”.
Models were walking puns in safety-cone colors and equally outlandish roadwork themed accessories. In referencing a Chanel skirt suit in neon safety tape, the collection proved to be undeniably smart thinking… And as the show went on the looks got bigger. One was literally a ball of feathers with a model somewhere beneath (this being the “carwash” part).
The only cautionary part to this tale however is the rampage of Scott-fans that will ensue when this collection hits the shops… It seems the hard-hats are necessary after all.
N°21 Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With this collection, Alessandro Dell’Acqua claims inspiration from 1920s Italian photographer/actress Tina Modotti and Corinne Day, a.k.a. the photographer responsible for some of the most iconic photos of the nineties.
An eighty-year gap means that the current N°21 line sees an avid mix of glamour and grunge. Models wearing jeweled headbands and ruffled chiffon are also wearing plain vests or t-shirts. Feathered slippers are worn over pulled-up socks. Florals, lace and python leather appear amongst deconstructed garments, shirts and dungarees… Dell’Acqua has created a clever mix of old and new and masculine and feminine with the current line of N°21.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Military-style coats with regimental studs, ribbon cording that reminds you of army uniforms and intricate lace made in the UK – the distinctively British fashion brand lives up to its namesake.
Throw in a classic trenchcoat and a personalized Cara Delevingne backpack and you couldn’t get “more” Burberry, though the clunky, chainlink sandals teamed with flowing slips and maxi dresses scream urban grunge.
Mix this with a range of sophisticated, heavy coats and you see Christopher Bailey’s move away from the idea of season-specific clothes with this collection. Making the show even more memorable, Bailey had Alison Moyet provide the soundtrack with the backing of a 32-piece orchesrtra.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Fanny packs, metallics and platform shoes. John Galliano is taking us raving. The dingy basements of London’s club scene has undoubtedly influenced the urban fashion show with models stopping to fiddle with the stereo equipment before walking, as if choosing their own soundtrack.
Split hem maxi dresses, eagle prints, tie dye and exposed bikinis made up the basis of the current, ever-eccentric, MM6 collection… Think grunge meets punk meets glitterball. However, the sad thing is that by the fierce expression of the model/ravers, we might not be getting an invite to this cool party.
“Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”
The Grand Palais was constructed in preparation for Paris’ spectacular Universal Exhibition in 1900. Around 48 millions visitors swarmed to the event, whilst George Vuitton created one of the most iconic attractions as part of his role in organizing the entire section concerning “Travel & Leather goods”. A majestic merry-go-round formed the platform for an array of pioneering and elegant Louis Vuitton luggage and bags.
As a celebration of over a century of Louis Vuitton, the Grand Palais will now host “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”. Retracing the label back to its 1854 origins, the collection consists of a remarkable overview of Louis Vuitton’s journey, paying homage to both it’s founders and current creators. Curator Olivier Saillard delved into the archives of the fashion brand to deliver “a fresh vision of our past, present and future”, according to Louis Vuitton’s CEO, Michael Burke.
The “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton” exhibition will run at the Grand Palais from December 4, 2015 until February 21, 2016.
Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Apparently first inspired by a girl wearing her boyfriend’s shirt, Andreas Melbostad has taken this idea and ran with it. Perhaps too far, as at times this collection can seem a little repetitive.
With hints of sportswear mixed into the cuts and footwear, Melbostad has created an urban line with that characteristically Diesel Black Gold biker effect...
Think oversized leather dungarees, embellished leather jackets and patchwork jeans. This is all realized in a mainly monochrome palette with the emergence of a beautiful deep blue towards the end of the show.
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
This sports-inspired line consisting of a neutral palette with the odd splash of vibrancy, suggests Wang has momentarily had his fill of all-black following last season. Mesh vests, crop tops, caps and sneakers make up the newly ex-Balenciaga director’s collection, oozing contemporary casual.
Departing from last season’s look of a subcultural, gothic-rave scene, with only studded sandals as a memento, Alexander Wang has chosen to shift his focus to urban New York streetwear for his Spring/Summer 2016 Collection.
Finished off with a nostalgic highlights reel of the past ten years of his career, along with a star studded front row, the shows reflects Wang as the great New York showman that he is.
Art-Lovers Assemble: Berlin Art Week 2015 is Upon Us
2015 sees Berlin Art Week run again for the fourth time with the help of main sponsor, Deutsche Bank. Over 6 days the city will host a diverse range of exciting Contemporary Art events. The joint project STADT/BILD (Image of a City) features across several galleries, whilst there is also the art fair Positions Berlin and a number of awards including the Preis der Nationalgalerie 2015.
To mark the occasion, all over the city there will be striking exhibitions opening, including collections from the likes of Cindy Sherman, Paul McCarthy and Bernard Frize. This year, for the first time, Berlin Art Week will also offer a number of thought-provoking panel discussions of Talking Galleries/Berlin.
According to Tim Renner, Senate Chancellery – Cultural Affairs, “Berlin Art Week reflects the city’s great variety as an art centre. Top-notch excellence and underground meet at eye level”. With so much going on, Berlin Art Week will surely be the focus of the art world for the next week.
Berlin Art Week commences on September 15, 2015, and runs until September 20, 2015.
Madame Tussauds may as well give up now, as the candle replica of Karl Lagerfeld is quite brilliant. His iconic look of dark shades, signature white collar and black top button is perfectly captured in this amusing homeware delight… Perfect if you feel you need a little Karl in your life/cupboard.
Co-designed by John-Paul Welton, the scent itself is naturally inspired by all things Karl. Delicately spiced mandarin surrounds the top notes of cinnamon, whilst it’s center includes soft jasmine and orange blossom fused with cardamom, nutmeg and tobacco. Cedar and teak wood, musk and amber finish up at the base of the luxuriously elegant scent, ultimately embodying his very character.
“Candle Karl” has found itself on shelves in limited edition at the Maison and Objet Paris and is available to preorder in store at Karl Lagerfeld.
Unseen Photo Fair and Festival 2015
Founded by FOAM Fotographiemuseum, Platform A and Creative Agency Vandejong in 2012, Amsterdam’s Unseen International Photo Fair and Festival returns this year for the fourth time.
Celebrating emerging talent in the field of contemporary photography, the fair exhibits new artists alongside current work from already established photographers. Todd Hido, Jean-François Lepage and Inka & Niclas will be amongst the artists featuring around the old gasworks location, Westergasfabriek, whilst Peter Puklus provides the official artwork for this year’s campaign as part of his current project “The Epic Love Story of a Warrior”.
With the opportunity to engage and contribute your own artistic thoughts and expression through a number of debates and lectures throughout the 3-day fair, the international event brings together a wealth of photography enthusiasts and professionals. This year’s edition includes 54 galleries, the Unseen Book market along with the presentation of two awards; the Unseen Dummy Award and the ING | Unseen Talent Award.
The Unseen Photo Fair runs in Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek between September 18 and 20, 2015. The Festival, which is accessible with an Unseen ticket, continues until September 27, 2015.
Amsterdam’s Tribal Art Fair (TAF) Runs for 13th Year
Keeping a family tradition alive is TAF organizer and owner of Amsterdam’s infamous Galerie Lemaire, Finette Lemaire. The gallery is one of the oldest tribal art galleries in the world and was founded around 90 years ago by M.L.J Lemaire. The popular TAF collection boasts an impressive range of textiles, sculptures, masks, jewelry and utensils from all over Africa, Oceania, America and Asia. Twenty national and international galleries will be exhibiting these items in the fair, many of which have never been previously released to the public…Whether you are a collector, an expert or simply a passer by, they are worth checking out. An expert committee will also be judging the diverse collection, examining the authenticity of each item.
The Tribal Art Fair (TAF) 2015 is running in central Amsterdam’s “De Duif” church from October 30, until November 1, 2015.
Converse Celebrate a 35 Year Old Stüssy!
The all American brands Stüssy and Converse have teamed up in celebrating the former’s 35th Anniversary. Commemorating Stüssy’s iconic “Tom Tom” print of zig zags and dots, the collaboration sees an inspired version of the pattern printed on the high tops and low Ox shapes of Converse’s 70s re-crafted Chuck shoe. The graphic featuring in achromatic shades and blue hues is embroidered on these exclusive sneakers in a unique fabric.
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Stüssy 35 Collection will be on sale from August 28, 2015, at Stüssy Chapter stores worldwide with a general release on September 4, 2015.
Wish us Luck! LeadAwards Announce ZOO Magazine as a Contender TWICE for Upcoming 2015 Medal
Hailed as Europe’s’ most significant photography awards, LeadAwards have announced ZOO Magazine as being nominated twice for the prestigious award. Each nomination will feature in the prestigious LeadAwards exhibition at the “Haus der Photography”, which is known to host around 40,000 visitors.
Miron Zownir presents one nomination with her Berlin Noir in ZOO Magazines’ Tenth Anniversary and Berlin Special, Issue 45. The series sees her depiction of Berlin in a post-war ruin, calling it “the Mecca of the Renegades and Penniless”. She shoots working-class citizens in their natural environment of Berlins’ then desolate, urban landscape.
Bryan Adams’ visual representation of “Helmut Berger”, taken from Issue 43’s interview, presents the other nominee for the award. Shooting a day in the life of Berger, Adams offers a striking collection bursting with Bergers’ larger than life personality.
The LeadAwards exhibition will run at the “Haus der Fotografie” in the Deichtorhallen, Hamburg, from September 19 until November 15, 2015.
The winners of the LeadAwards will be announced three weeks after the exhibitions’ opening. Winners will be awarded at the LeadAwards ceremony on October 15, 2015.
We Want More: 21st Century Music Photography
Currently shown at the Photographer’s Gallery in London (17 July – 20 September), We Want More studies the changing dynamic between “image-making and music in the 21st century”.
Unlike previous times, both the photographer and musician are no longer constrained by briefs given by particular publications. Instead they are freer to realize their own creative visions in the resulting images.
Curator Diane Smythe displays a range of energetic images, from Ewen Spencer’s Ayia Napa ravers to Katy Perry impersonating royalty, as shot by Ryan Enn Hughes.
Pictured above is a still from Roger Ballens’ series of alternative South African group Die Antwoord, from their iconic “Fink U Freeky” music video, which also features in the exhibition. Notably, Die Antwoord actually sought out Ballen to direct this for them, as they believed that he specifically could understand the vision they wanted to create.www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk
Emporio Armani Presents The Fall/Winter 2015/16 Campaign starring Calvin Harris
DJ and producer Calvin Harris stars in the Brooklyn located campaign, a monochrome of cinematographic features shot by photographer Lachlan Bailey. The highly prolific musician Calvin Harris is portrayed in various workplace environments clad in the FW collections’ garments, ranging from leather jackets to the iconic Emporio Armani underwear, eyewear and watches. The continuing collaboration strengthens the ties between the fashion house to the world of the energetic dynamism of contemporary music – with innovation, and futurism intertwined with an assured sense of style. www.armani.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
It was a dark and twisted fairy wonderland. Pastel colored fabrics draped beautifully and effortlessly around ethereal models were paired with shiny go go-dancer platforms, dark eye makeup and tousled ‘morning after’ locks. The spectacle of the Atelier Versace show was striking – thousands of glass-encased orchids lined the runway, headlining models included Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone and Sasha Pivovarova and the crowd was not disappointed. Donatella received a standing ovation at the end of the mystical fairy-gone-bad couture showcase. The gowns were mesmerizing and looked to be taken straight out of the Grimms’ original fairy tales – gritty and fascinating as they are.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
Nude Animal Cigar – Paul Kooiker
Commissioned by the Fotomuseum in The Hague, Dutch artist Paul Kooiker will present his distinctive photographs at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin. Kooiker’s ouvre is certainly not avoidant of the one-object focus. In fact, his ability to highlight objects, animals and the female form often evoke a lingering, curious gaze. Nude Animal Cigar is no different. Using sepia filtered hues, lit cigars, contorted torsos and animals are exhibited side by side. Unsettling perhaps - yet simultaneously captivating.
The photographs can at times seem like an invasion of privacy, a snapshot taken of those unaware. Kooiker is no stranger to this use of ambiguity, often utilizing provoking compositions in order to deconstruct and depersonalize female bodies. Perhaps part art social critique and part post-war cultural satire; Kooiker undeniably achieves a raise of the eyebrow.
The exhibition Nude Animal Cigar will run from June 13 until July 25, 2015 at Gallery Kromus + Zink in Berlin (Linienstraße 23).
Read more about Nude Animal Cigar in ZOO Nr. 47 – out now.
Acne Studios Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspired by the unisex approach to dressing in 70s New York (mostly in the shape of his love of the hard rock band New York Dolls), Jonny Johansson - Acne’s creative director - has taken to creating a bold collection. Following his experiences surfing with surfer come artist Robin Kegel in the Swedish oceans, Kegel’s distinctive surfboard art has colored the collection with individualism. Printed on loose fit jumpsuits in poplin silk and cashmere sweaters, Acne’s take on the hard-rock 70s Swedish surfer is supremely awesome. With billowy shirts, abstract graphics and vivid red, blues and greens, the Acne collection is certainly made memorable.
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
Hotel Daniel Paris
Located in the middle of the Parisian heart, the Hotel Daniel is a decidedly quirky amalgamation of east and west. Furnished by the talented designer Tarfa Salam, the hotel inspires dreams of fantastical getaways. With elegance and charm in troves, the hotel's signature exotic style remains an alternative respite in the face of contemporary minimalism, where sumptuous décor ignite thoughts of far away lands in inner-city surroundings.
With a slight wander out the door, you will find yourself in a vibrant part of the city, the cultural veins of the city's heart sprouting in all directions in the form of art galleries, fashion houses, restaurants and nightclubs. Its own restauranteur, Chef Jérôme Bonnet, raised in Languedoc Roussillon, promises a sophisticated menu composed of traditional and self-made recipes. Barely aged past the year of seven, the Daniel is a connoisseur's choice.
Schwarzhogerzeil Opens On The Torstrasse
Owned by Nicole Hogerzeil, the Berlin located fashion retail store Schwarzhogerzeil has found a new home on the Torstrasse. Recreated in spacious surroundings, the space appropriately reflects the brands hand-picked by Hogerzeil – elegant, minimal and luxurious.
Conceived by the interior designer Sylvester Koziolek, the space has a decidedly Parisian charm ca 1940, yet refined with the features of the contemporary. Neon lighting and sturdy steel clothes racks come together in the creation of a certain ‘Schwarzhogerzeil atmosphere’ - an appreciation of quality and design. Labels to be found include Ball Pagès, Carven, Cedric Charlier, Isabel Marant, Marni, Dries van Note and Perret Schaad.
Opens the 20th of May.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
SYBILLE by Hester Scheurwater
Dutch artist Hester Scheurwater does not tiptoe around the topic of female sexuality. Her oeuvre is beset by her ardent investigation and critique of the role of women as a sex object. Using portraiture, her work often includes the use of reflections, more specifically, through the inclusion of a physical mirror that communicate inner thoughts and outward appearance.
Explaining the impact of her work in ZOO issue 31, Scheurwater states “It is ‘normal’ for male artists to look at the female body and turn it into the object of their art. It becomes an aberration when it is a woman who handles the chisel or stands behind the camera, especially if they portray themselves”. Her work is no stranger to censorship, featuring provoking and often unsettling perspectives of the female form.
Her latest collaboration SYBILLE follows in the same vein. A collection of images taken of the same subject, the SYBILLE study is available in 100 softcover zine editions, signed and numbered.
Orders can be sent to email@example.com
Giorgio Armani Celebrates 40th Anniversary with the Opening of ARMANI/SILOS
The opening of the Armani/Silos exhibition space on April 30th marks the 40th year of Giorgio Armani’s illustrious career. Open to the public, the space revels in futurism, revealing to the visitor a uniquely rich showcase of contemporary attitudes and lifestyles. Behind its sharp architectural exterior waits the 4,500 square meter, four level space.
Dubbed Silos due to its past life storing food, the designer explains its creation, “Because fashion, which seems to want to live in an eternal present, needs to reflect on itself and its own roots in order to face the future. Through this process of reflection, we see how fashion accompanies and often anticipates important social changes”. Behind the sharp architectural exterior lies the designer’s vision of simplicity, aiming to achieve a rational form, void of superfluous adornment.
The configuration of the space is of a dispersed creative life, the ground floor dedicated to his daywear, exoticism on the first floor, color schemes of the second floor and a theme of light on the fourth floor.
To read more, visit
Louis Vuitton 2016 Cruise Collection
On May 6th, the Cruise 2016 show made the landmark residence of Bob and Dolores Hope its grand stage. Created by revered Modernist architect John Lautner, the steel, concrete and glass windowed architecture seemed built for the show. Armor-like, metallic pieces were intertwined with ethereal, flowing prints, creating an aesthetic that could be described as futuristic boho-chic. Structured, practical boots were favoured over the heel, adding to the utilitarian feel.
The LV Cruise show caused quite the ruckus, not merely for its runway mastery, but its presence on social media. For the public and those not in attendance, the fashion house shared runway, backstage and after party moments with their Live Louis Vuitton Snapchat feature.
Nicholas Ghesquiere’s showcase was, however, so much more than a display of a stunning collection, it was a momentary glimpse of an alternate, Ghesquiere-curated life. The desolate yet beautiful surroundings of the Palm Springs location afforded to the showcase an outlandish, near alien atmosphere, and the clothing were equally as elevated.
To see the full show, go to
Miu Miu Fall 2015 Campaign
Unveiling another elevated lookbook, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns have reigned supreme in shaping high street trends. From the angular yet plush handbags to the heeled brogues – their 2015 fall campaign just might set off another rush towards vintage revival.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s images tell the story of Miu Miu’s ongoing affair with the power of opposites. Starring model Estella Boersma, the images reflect the items’ sophisticated and the innocent play with the sensual and confident, through a femininity that treads a multiplex path. This juxtaposition is reiterated in the incorporation of vintage upholstery-inspired fabrics in combination with contemporary masculinity in the form of tailored shorts suits.
Exploring the subtle and direct oppositions of form and silhouette, Miu Miu brings to the table a closet packed with desirables.
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
New Work by Adam Pendleton at Pace Gallery London
Conceptualist Adam Pendleton is presenting new work at the Pace Gallery in London. From the 16th of April until the 23rd of May, the gallery is open for visitors. This multi-disciplinary artist has been known for using different media such as silkscreen printing, painting and video. To see what he has been up to, make sure not to miss this exhibition.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
Calvin Klein Jeans #mycalvins Denim Series
Calvin Klein Jeans brings us a new denim collection inspired by urban streetwear. The collection exists out of logo-driven garments that are comfortable and iconic. For the advertising campaign, the brand has asked fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan to shoot Kendall Jenner and model Simon Nessman in a way that is fresh and typically Calvin Klein.
The line will be sold exclusively at Calvin Klein boutiques and on the brand’s website.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
The one thing they have always had in common is what makes them such a perfect match. Both have been important brands when it comes to music and referencing subcultures, which has led them to collaborate for the eleventh time. This year, Raf Simons chose for graphical prints and African-inspired shapes. He turns the perfect basic into a striking piece that shows boldness and exclusivity.
click to play video
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since Nicolas Ghesquière took over the steering wheel, Louis Vuitton has been traveling into a slightly different direction. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, he has found a way to add some of that Parisian rock ‘n roll into Vuitton’s classic luxury.
Biker pants and jackets were combined with short dresses in flower prints, finished up with pointy heels and low, black boots. The looks felt casual and laid-back, but none of them lacked flare.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
J.W. Anderson is showing us something we have never seen him do before. He is introducing a new way of layering, with green, black and white corduroy pants under skirts and dresses. Anderson’s inspiration is visible in every part of the collection. Exaggerated shoulders, bright colors, draped velvet, shiny metallic and large plastic rings that accentuate the waist all reflect the early eighties.
Ankle length leather coats in light pink and dark brown and knee-high boots with draping on the top stood out the most during his show.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Sopopular at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Sopopular had clearly been mixing with the wrong crowd this season, bearing all the markers of the tough tribe with the bullet-hole knits and bomber jackets in a plethora of panther-black leather.
Three-quarter length pants in felted wool crumpled up at the midriff, waistbands folding over like neat paper bags. Crew neck sweaters were glossed in a sable sharkskin sheen or decked in chunky rope, each an understated elaboration, yet resounding in their effect.
Winning friends through dominion? Sopopular will show you how.
Narrow collar shirts emerged in all-over ebony leather, while cropped tracksuit bottoms assumed similarly supple skins. Macintosh raincoats and capes were sapped of all pigment, their parchment-paper translucence layered over an ink-black uniform, making way for fuzzy plush dressing-gown coats, knotted nonchalantly at the middle.
Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Here’s a question: who would ever think that mixing a pair of baby pink roll-up pants with a patterned burgundy full-zip sweater is a good idea? Federico Curradi, the Creative Director of Iceberg’s menswear line, for one, certainly would - and rightly so. As awkward as the pairing sounds, the surprisingly effervescent look was just one of the highlights of the Italian brand’s Milano presentation.
There was something soothingly poetic about Iceberg’s latest offering. The aforementioned pants. The shrunken beanies. The Seinfeld-esque fit. By combining undersized pieces with their ballooned-up counterparts, Curradi delivered the utmost magical ensembles, albeit perhaps a little strange-looking to the untrained eye.
There’s no denying that under Curradi’s masterful direction in the men’s division, the one-time knitwear-only specialists have grown into a fashion force to be reckoned with. And with no more than 20 looks for FW15, the public is inevitably left craving for more. Quality over quantity? At Iceberg, any time.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
BOSS Womenswear Pre-Fall 2015
They say opposites attract. Should you need any convincing, Jason Wu’s latest collection for BOSS Womenswear provides perfect proof.
Pre-Fall 2015 painted a picture of contrasts, inverting male and female sartorial codes with playful wit for an all the more considered take on androgyny.
Longstanding BOSS icons orientated the aesthetic, bolstered by a stalwart menswear motif in both outline and adornment. Windowpane and houndstooth checks are pregnant in scale, caricatured as pixelated macro prints or re-woven as tweeds, tailoring redefined by this new modern heritage. Digitized suiting fabrics arrived in the form of laser-cut chiffon, jacquard knit and fine herringbone beading, sombre in its monochrome baseline but revitalised by flashes of verdant green.
Evening dresses strike a covetable balance between tuxedo and sumptuous gown; the tuxedo softened by an extended shirt, and the gown rendered redolent by a hardy composition of geometric chiffon panels, engineered to the body.
And the role reversal extended to the accessories, with cufflinks replacing the hardware detail on handbags, belts and Chelsea boots, reconfigured under androgyny’s idiosyncratic eye. “A marriage of opposites”, as Wu so coined it. A match made in heaven, to all intents.
Balmain Unveils Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Sorrenti
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
The campaign, shot under the illusive gaze of Mario Sorrenti, extracts an essence of 1970s French cinema, with its warped realism and bleak urban outlook. Outfitted in a suitably subversive uniform, Balmain’s matchless cuts are none short of revolutionary under the agenda of Rousteing’s very modern warfare – everyday environments reinterpreted as pop battleground, prising fast food and eyes wide, entranced by video games, or fighting under the stark strip-lights of the subway. A covetable crusade indeed.
Launch of Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools 2015
'The Babysitter' by Rosie Rendles. 2014 shortlist.
This year's 'Saatchi Gallery / Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools' is now open for submissions. The globally-oriented competition aims to encourage and guide emerging artists by providing them with a platform to present their work. Primary, secondary and sixth form schools from all over the world are welcome to enter as many students as they wish, provided they are up to 18 years old. It should be noted that there are no restrictions on the medium used.
The winning school's art department will receive a £10,000 prize, and an additional £2,000 will be awarded to the winning student.
The deadline for entries is 13 January, 2015.
'Journeys' by Matt Rooney. 2014 shortlist.
'Feeling: A Frog in the Sewer' by Victoria Ji-Soo Han. 2014 shortlist.
Berlin Art Film Festival
'Nan Goldin - I Remember Your Face' (2014) Sabine Lidl, languages: English, German, subtitles: English
The first ever edition of the Berlin Art Film Festival will reveal a new side to the always-bustling metropolis. Privately funded and organised by the people behind the 'Stil in Berlin' blog, the four-day festival will show more than 30 films (“from poetry to porn”), all of which are either in English or with English subtitles. What's more, a number of filmmakers and actors will also be present for the screenings and the two panel discussions.
The highlights include 'An Interview With an Artist', a short film about an American artist (played by film professor and curator Marc Siegel), who would much rather talk about underwear than anything substantial, and 'Ich Will Mich Nicht Künstlich Aufregen / Asta Upset', which tells the story of a young and fairly secure art curator in Berlin, still trying to figure it out.
'I Remember Your Face', the Sabine Lidl-directed documentary about controversial photographer Nan Goldin, will close the festival. The film will also see its German premiere.
Berlin Art Film Festival: 4 – 7 December, 2014
'An Interview With an Artist' (2011) Telémachos Alexiou, language: English, no subtitles
'Asta Upset' (2014) Max Linz, languages: German/ English, subtitles: English/German
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. returns to where the brand started in 1830 in its latest Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, as they collaborate with conceptual photographer Jackie Nickerson and work on a Roadtrip project, shot in the historic Woolen Mills, Pennsylvania. The America-born brand is founded on tradition and adaption, proved in the images being shot in and around Woolen Mills, showing the brands’ signature manufacturing process and standards between industrial production, nature and social responsibilities, while also being innovative with modern outerwear.
COS Autumn/Winter 2016
Ghanaian artist Lynette Yiadom Boakye’s paintings serve as inspiration in COS Autumn/Winter 2016 rich colour palette, which is made of dark navy, intense blue, ochre, burgundy and forest green.
For the women’s collection, COS has modified its classic structure, with an emphasis on exaggeration, through high turtlenecks, prolonged sleeves and oversized, wide trousers. Key for this collection is layering and blends of different materials, as a silk shirt is placed over a cotton skirt and a asymmetric scarf worn with a viscose-plated knitted top. Essential accessories this season is a leather shopper, which doubles as a clutch.
The colour palette and silhouettes for the men’s collection are inspired by Berlin-based artist Lev Khesin. Again, layering takes a primary role, as we see a padded technical vest combined with wool. COS has developed its pure tailoring to a softer silhouette. The brown oxford shoe, as well as the modernized leather sneaker are fundamental in this autumn collection.
Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign
Creative director Sarah Burton and photographer Jamie Hawkesworth came together to create the Alexander McQueen AW16 Campaign, featuring in demand model Mica Arganaraz. The duo has a shared love for British nature and wildlife, which brought them to Shetland, a subarctic island northeast from Great Britain. Placed in the rocky Scottish landscape, Hawkesworth’s images portray a sense of young and surrealistic beauty and continue McQueen’s admiration for romantic, natural scenery.
Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
“The inspiration for the campaign was completely guided by our Paris show collection”, says Andreas Kronthaler of the Vivienne Westwood Autumn/Winter 2016/17 Campaign which features Ms. Westwood herself. Shot by Juergen Teller and styled by Sabina Schreder, the campaign portrays a spiritual look, cast with a fun and young group of boys and girls, styled in an "East meets West" theme. Kronthaler explains when envisioning the campaign, they were focused on finding a spiritual place to shoot and stumbled upon a middle-eastern rug, which gave them inspiration.
Viktor&Rolf Autumn/Winter 2016
Recycling is the main inspiration for Viktor&Rolf Couture Autumn/Winter 2016, as they look and use their own archive as starting point for their newest collection. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren use torn up fabrics and mix them to create a new abundant silhouette. The garments are embroidered with buttons, beats and crystals, the looks styled with top hats. Another influence for the collection is Dickens’ Vagabonds, quoting; “Those that belong nowhere, wandering from place to place, roaming the city.” The final sees the wanderers, roaming the runway.
Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall 2016
John Galliano has a much more personal understanding of Maison Margiela for its Artisanal Fall 2016, in which he experiments with a different take on haute couture. “A sense of the incredible and the impossible spins throughout the Artisanal collection, where fantasy is tempered by the jarring authenticity of today’s reality.” A satin orangza dress is draped around the models body, printed with Nick Knight’s British Birds (2008) styled with a cycling top, arctic blue gloves and dark brown clogs, her headpiece resembling a string of seashells. Another model is dressed in an upside down orange coat, worn over a navy shift dressed, paired with rubber-soled thigh-high black ‘Tabi’ boots.
Miu Miu Club members were invited to attend the-miumiu-club Paris exclusively for the celebration of Paris Couture Week, to view the Cruise collection and which also showcased the new autumn/winter 2016 campaign. Dirty Pretty Strings performed at the event, on the turntables were Paul Simonon, Kate Moss alongside others. The rooms with impeccable detailing, including the painted ceiling by Paul Baudry, were transformed into clubrooms such as a cinema, restaurant and show house. This was held in the Hotel de la Paiva on the Champs-Elysees, built mid-1800s as private residence for commissioner Esther Lachmann, also known as La Paiva. Miu Miu Clubs are also held in London, Shanghai, Los Angeles and Macau, China.
Giorgio Armani New Normal A/W 2016/17 Campaign
Giorgio Armani announces its New Normal Autumn/Winter 2016/17 advertising campaign, shot in black and white by Peter Lindbergh on the Plage du Touquet in France. Giorgio Armani New Normal focuses on today’s women, proposing classic, timeless garments. The series of natural images promotes the idea of a global, multi-faceted beauty and features models Liu Wen, Liya Kebede, Elisa Sednaoui and Amanda Murphy. “I wanted to show different types of beauty, without barriers – four young women who experience the present in their own ways”, thus revealing Giorgio Armani.
Interview Dawid Tomaszweski at Berlin Fashion Week SS17
German-Polish designer Dawid Tomaszweski started up his business in 2009 and has in just a short time drawn us all in with his refreshing new take on luxury women’s wear. We spoke to Dawid after his Spring 2017 show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Hi Dawid - You’ve been designing for quite some time now. Do you still get nervous before your show?
I still get a little bit anxiety before every show. I have never done a show based on whether it will work or not. Every collection is a result of hard work. In the collection I always show my vulnerability, so I still get the butterflies in my stomach before the show.
As a designer always staying ahead of what’s already been done, and creating innovative and modern collections, where do you get your inspiration from?
My surrounding is my inspiration. One one hand - the city that I am living in Berlin, it’s contemporary art, painters, architects etc. On the other hand - I get my inspiration from people, who are around me. My friends, family and of course from my mom - the biggest supporter, the woman who has a huge influence in my life and will always have.
Autumn/Winter 2016 was shown in January, which was a structured, coloured collection. How is Spring 2017 different?
Spring 2017 is a new chapter in my ''collection book’’. It is a new story, a fantasy, a sweet dream that comes true. Delicate, soft pallets, gentle feminine silhouettes, the fairy tale that was named ''Blushes’’.
Your garments have been featured in magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair. Has there been a turning point in your career that stands out?
For sure. Appearance in such magazines as Vogue, Vanity Fair means a lot to me as well as to my brand. But I’ve never created for fame or success. I am just doing what I love. I am truly dedicated to my job and it is a result of my work.
Berlin has turned into a fashion hot spot in recent years. What is it about Berlin?
Berlin is a place where so many cultures, ethnicities and nationalities found their corners, it is a city that ''has something in stock’’ for everyone. It is always changing, open-minded city, free and wild.
Is there anything you’d still like to achieve? What does the future hold for Dawid Tomaszweski?
I have never limited myself with my dreams. I create, I design and I see the results. I’m not thinking what future holds for me, I am working on my future and I am achieving.
MBFW: Lala Berlin Spring 2017
Lala Berlin’s Spring 2017 collection, called Hypnotic Nights, is presented in the highest penthouse in Berlin, among an exclusive group of 200 invitees. The looks are energetic and vibrant, made of delicate silks and with elegant pleats. it’s colour palette a mix of red, orange combined with black, blue and brandy-coloured garments. The presentation saw Heike Makatasch en Laberenz at the turntable, opening up the dance floor for the guests. Leyla Piedayesh said that then she saw the view of Berlin for the first time, a completely new perspective stretched before her. “I was so touched, I didn’t want that feeling deprived from anyone.”
GOETZE SS17 Collection
Boyish youth, styled manhood, and reworked casualwear - GOETZE's SS17 collection conveys all of these sensibilities. The collection adapts the forms and silhouettes taken from athletic apparel, while placing emphasis on the functionality that materials like mesh and poplin bring to the clothing. The tone of the pieces reinforce the light and active nature of the apparel, with palettes of sea blue, sky blue, navy and anthracite that note the light, active touch specified for this collection. Founded by Sissi Goetze following her completion of her studies at Central St. Martins in London in 2011, and shortened to GOETZE in 2016, GOETZE was formed around an ongoing exploration of unique formal and casual sensibilities within essential menswear items. Restraining her output to variations of men's shirts, pants and jackets, each collection considers the creative potential within limitation, utilizing material in a gestural nod towards both functional aesthetics and minimalist design. GOETZE fuses historical precedents of menswear with everyday aspects of contemporary masculinity, taking inspiration from both athletic apparel and casual wear.
Peter Lindbergh - A Different Vision On Fashion Photography
Uma Thurman, Los Angeles, USA, 2011 Vogue Italia © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery)
An exhibition celebrating German photographer Peter Lindbergh’s inspiring work will open September 10th 2016 in the Kunsthal, Rotterdam. One of fashions most influential photographers with the infamous image of the 90s Supermodels, or The Big Six, on his repertoire, will make this exhibition one for the books. The gallery will have his material divided in nine different sections, including Couturiers, Dance and Icons. Lindbergh initiated bringing a narrative to fashion photography and includes a sense of realism, which in an age of excessive photo retouching changed the norms of beauty. The photographer is often referred to as the ‘Photographer of Truth’, as he rejects the concept of social status in his work. Lindbergh: ”This should be the responsibility of photographers today to free women, and finally everyone, from the terror of youth and perfection.”
The exhibition will run until February 12th 2017.
PFW: Loewe Presentation Spring 2017
Loewe unveils its Spring 17 collection in a suggestive setting where Ibiza summer nights and a bohemian lifestyle reinterpreted are protagonist. Jonathan Anderson again plays around the contrast of natural textiles like linen, cotton, cord together with the main star of the brand, leather. Fluent long tunics in organic natural shades are combined with modern siluettes in pop colours. Relaxed, fresh and youthful. A summer time where we are all dreaming to dive.
PFW: HERMES SPRING 2017
On the chart of fashion where every party tries to dictate the "extraordinary " and the "new", Hermès 's Mens director Véronique Nichanian focus on the essential and its unlimited power. Slim, simple, effortless are the key words for a collection entirely focused on a multitude of subtle details like only the house of Hermès knows how to. Sleek trousers combined with acid lemon t-shirt , hazelnut leather bomber jackets or architectural minimal coats in faint grey. Beautiful silk shirts and knits with tie - dye motifs together with relaxed sporty sandals indulge the atmosphere. Hermès's man once again plays a cool and elegant attitude.
PFW: ACNE STUDIOS SPRING 2017
"A fresh take on menswear – one that is very crip and clear,” thus revealing Creative Director Jonny Johansson. Presented in the Lycée Charlemagne, Acne Studios Spring 2017 resembles the atmosphere of Swedish summers, as the collection looks at materials and silhouettes inspired by tents and uses colours and patterns giving a sense of nostalgia. Waterproof jackets are incorporated into the collection, which is where we see the tent-influence; the zip-up jackets have an A-line silhouette on the back which resembles tents, while ponchos are made to be fastened in multiple ways. Knitwear is designed in a variety of densities and styled with shirts underneath and wide-legged pants featuring long zips on the side.
BALLY Men's Spring/Summer & Women's Resort 2017 Collection
Bally presents a sense of nostalgia in the spring/summer and women’s Resort 2017 collection. A retro sense and memories of disco platforms at the gym is what Karlheinz Weinberger’s photographs have captured. The juxtaposed reality of the 80s “Teen Wolf” (1985), Francis Ford Coppola’s “The Outsiders” looking to belong in this campaign. An edelweiss flower on a Western shirt and playful archive prints come to life. This is enriched with David Hicks bold colours on Japanese kimonos and leisure suits for everyday. Bally expresses the happy grunge and the MTV generation.
WOOLRICH SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Woolrich John Rich & Bros have for the Spring/Summer 2017 collection created a line-up with casual, organic apparel, blending two worlds together – The outdoors, a fishermen look with matching hat and wellies, and a city look with hints of sport and utility wear. The collection envisions garments which can shift through seasons, instead of being tied to one period. Its jackets are light, water-resistant and breathable, something every man needs. The collection is inspiration for the Woolrich E-bike, a bicycle developed in collaboration with Australian brand Deus.
MFW: EMPORIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
The Emporio Armani Spring 2017 collection is sleek and sharp, with as main focus present-days meaning of the term identity. The collection envisions the idea of belonging, as some models walk down the runway in groups, whilst encouraging everyone to be themselves. The garments, embroidered and printed with digital imprints, are inspired by athletic attire but are made with fine fabrics. In pure Emporio Armani fashion, the collection stays true to its signature colour palette, including navy and denim blue and fir greens, alongside hints of orange, red and electric blue.
MFW: VERSACE SPRING 2017
The Versace Spring 2017 show is opened with a short version of Bruce Weber’s advertising film for the brands Fall 2016 collection, shot during a four-day period with Donatella Versace in Chicago. This heavily influenced her latest collection, as she said ‘when we came back, we designed the collection in five days.’ Layering is key here; sweaters are tied around the waist, ankle-length parkas are paired with cycling shorts, but also throw over clean-cut suits. Donatella Versace paid homage to the late Prince by using one of his original songs, gifted to her by the singer, as soundtrack during the show as well as making an appearance at the end wearing an all-purple suit. Donatella loves changes, as she says: “I want to push Versace forwards, and capture the spirit of individuality and creativity in the men that I love.”
MFW: GIORGIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
Giorgio Armani’s Spring/ Summer 2017 embraces change and crosses borders, but remains true to the brands philosophy as it evolves into a mysterious yet urban collection. Garments are designed with a mix of geometric patterns and graphic elements, which somehow give of a Caribbean finish. The fit is loose, trousers oversized but it has a clean-cut undertone, perhaps through the colour choices. Its colour palette is romantic, orange tinted reds styled with an array of warm greys and light blues.
MFW: DIESEL BLACK GOLD SPRING 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad retreats to the root of denim for Spring 2017. Melbostad was influenced by late American photographer Irving Penn's images collected in his “Small Trades” book, which showed a diverse range of working class people. As Diesel Black Gold established aesthetic is utilitarian and functional, you can understand the connection. Denim pants are styled with a variety of shirts, including a new kimono style. Proposing a sophisticated sporty touch, nylon is used in the collection in jackets and trousers. The look is complete with utility sandals and canvas sneakers.
Hugo 'Your Suit, Your Way'
HUGO’s ‘Your Suit, Your Way’ campaign breaks the boundaries of convention and reveals the dynamic attitude of the Superblack suit. Set on the edge of Malta’s dramatic coastline and the impressive sea arch, it provides the ultimate setting for cliff diver David Colturi to push himself, both physically and mentally, to demonstrate the Superblack suit’s power. The video finds Colturi standing determinedly in the suit on the cliff face, before breaking into a run, then leaping into the unknown, turning in the air and plunging into the sea.
The campaign delivers an unexpected perspective and shows how the HUGO Superblack suit, with its innovative tailoring and modern slim-fit style, inspires men to wear a suit in new, individual ways that defy convention. The message is clear: the Superblack suit, made using double-dyed yarn for a deep black color and iconic HUGO style, can be worn anytime, anywhere.
Theory l Pre-Fall 2016
When Theory presents the new Pre-Fall 2016 women and men collection this means that this winter has it all. Apart from the always smart and safe black, it also introduces more colours such as red, yellow, grey, burgundy and khaki. The collection is smart chic with coats, shirts, pullovers, light trousers and pleaded skirts and tops. Theory presents white as one of the winter colour in skirts, trousers, coats and shirts that gives the collection an extra elegance. The menswear collection is more focused on black, brown and grey in trench coats, coats, trousers and blouses. Jeans are always on fashion matched with smart jumpers. Theory introduces leather as the winter’s trend with the legendary biker’s jacket.
Dior Homme Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Dior Homme has launched its Autumn/Winter 16/17 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign expresses diverse backgrounds in creative fields such as music, photography, film and fashion and has a sense of duality of youth and experienced. Headlining the cast of muses is American rapper and fashion icon A$AP Rocky, highly praised for both his music directory and personal style, personifying the urban and masculinity of the brand in the images.
Photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark very elegantly features in the campaign, in a distinct and dark series of portraits.
On the forefront of a new era in art-house cinema is 20-year old French actor Rod Paradot, pictured dressed in smart coats and formal eveningwear.
Last new face is model Dylan Roques. who is no stranger to the brand as he has opened the runway just last season, who expresses the rebellious energy of Dior Homme.
Second time BFA Menswear Designer winner J.W.Anderson latest collection has drawn inspiration from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novel Le Petit Prince, a philosophical story pointing out the abnormalities of adult life. Though J.W.Anderson mentions, this collection is ‘’not about being nostalgic, it’s about being childlike.’’ Swimming goggles, headpieces resembling crowns, extremely long sleeves and sweaters tied around the waist indicate to this childlike theme, but its a refreshing way of accenting the collection. ‘Petite’ trench coats, culottes and shoulder bags granted the compilation the androgynous view J.W.Anderson swears by, but military bombers and plaid shirts were also included, giving the collection a masculine touch.
Giorgio Armani Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Giorgio Armani reveals its Autumn/Winter 2016/17 campaign, shot by fashion photography duo Mert and Marcus (Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott). Both photographers have said they are heavily influenced by photographer Guy Bourdin, which shows in their latest work. Modelling for this shoot were models Maartje Verhoef, Heather Kemesky, Julian Schneyder, André Bona, Mathilde Brandi, and Andrey Zakharov, who were photographed in black and white, which the brand describes as giving it an atmosphere that is subtly introspective and suggests a sense of realism.
Helmut Newton exhibition at FOAM
Mark next Friday in your diaries, as you’ll be able to see and enjoy the wonderful work of legendary photographer Helmut Newton in FOAM. The German-Australian artist started working on his photography passion in the 1950s, but a career didn’t take off until 2 decades later when he started shooting for the French Vogue. As the 70s was a new age of female independence and freedom of sexual expression, Newton incorporated the independent woman in his work. He worked closely with designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and CHANEL’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld, who also strived towards a modern, empowered femme. The exhibition Helmut Newton – A Retrospective at the FOAM Photography Museum in Amsterdam will run from the 17th of June up until the 4th of September, an art-enthusiasts idea of a perfect summer.
Versace and Bruce Weber, A Golden Match
Versace has collaborated with photographer Bruce Weber on their Fall/Winter 2016 campaign. Weber is not a stranger to the brand, as he is behind most historic images for the brand ever since they started working together in 1990. This time around the campaign features supermodels Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Dilone in different scenarios. One of them being an ultra dazzling and glossy life-style, the other a day-to-day stroll with the kids, a modern looking family. The images show the versatility of the items and thus making it relatable. Shot in Chicago, Weber has decided to include men and womenswear together. Donatella Versace speaks highly of the collaboration with Weber, as they haven't worked together since 1999, with the following; ”Bruce Weber is the true master of our time. His photography is deeply personal and rich, a reflection of the world as he sees it. It has been my pleasure to enter once again into that world for this Versace campaign. With this new campaign, Bruce gave me my history back.”
Palladium Champions Pack
Inspired by the Paris Fashion Week and at the same time from the eclectic style of football stars, Palladium Boots have prepared a very special edition of their beloved classic Pampa Hi: the Champions Pack. For the Palladium Boots Champions Pack the materials that were used can be seen for the first time on Palladium boats. The iconic logo patch on the side of the shaft was plated with 24 carat gold, just like the eyelets of the boat. Noble, waxed laces add an additional high fashion appeal.
Palladium Boots Champions Pack consists of the Pampa Hi in black and a matching, specially designed backpack. This special collection was produced as a tribute to our Champions in very limited quantities.
Palladium Boots is a brand made in France and inspired by this beautiful country.
amfAR's 22nd Cinema Against Aids Gala in Cannes
The 22nd annual Cinema Against AIDS gala in Antibes, France, raised more than $30 million for amfAR's AIDS research programs and the search for a cure. The undisputed highlight of the evening’s live auction was a stunning 18½ foot tall sculpture by Jeff Koons, titled Coloring Book which was sold for over $13 million. The star-studded black-tie event, held at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, France, during the Cannes Film Festival, was presented by Harry Winston and Bold Films.
Event Chairs included amfAR Chairman Kenneth Cole, Harvey Weinstein, Jake Gyllenhaal, Carine Roitfeld, Isabella Rossellini, Frances McDormand, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Abhishek Bachchan, Diane Kruger, John C. Reilly, Michel Litvak, amfAR Global Fundraising Chairman Milutin Gatsby, Len Blavatnik, Nayla Hayek, Remo Ruffini, and Vin Roberti.
Other guests in attendance, many of whom participated in the evening’s auction included: Antonio Banderas, Matt Bellamy, Andrea Bocelli, Adrien Brody, Marion Cotillard, Xavier Dolan, Lily Donaldson, Jourdan Dunn, Michael Fassbender, Tom Ford, David Gandy, Melissa George, Madalina Ghenea, Jake Gyllenhaal, Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, Lewis Hamilton, Eva Herzigova, Chanel Iman, Kendall Jenner, Harvey Keitel, Karlie Kloss, Zoe Kravitz, Karolina Kurkova, Adriana Lima, Eva Longoria, Sienna Miller, Petra Nemcova, Rita Ora, Barbara Palvin, Michelle Rodriguez, Irina Shayk, Paolo Sorrentino, Dita von Teese, Mario Testino, Robin Thicke, Chris Tucker, Alicia Vikander, Binx Walton, and Lindsey Wixson, among many others.
Some of the pieces auctioned was an outstanding work by one of the world’s best known artists, legendary Colombian painter and sculptor Fernando Botero. Bollywood star Aishwarya Rai Bachchan introduced an exquisite bespoke diamond necklace, designed exclusively for amfAR and Cinema Against AIDS by Harry Winston. A work by Banksy, the world’s most famous and mysterious street artist, was donated to the auction by Leonardo diCaprio from his private collection and sold for over $1 million
A stunning feature of the evening was a Black and White fashion show curated by longtime amfAR supporter Carine Roitfeld. The dazzling collection featured one-of-a-kind looks, half in black, half in white, from the world’s most celebrated fashion houses. Participating designers included Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Gucci, Prada, Céline, Balmain, Giorgio Armani, and Tom Ford, among others.
The unforgettable evening also featured live performances by internationally renowned musical acts. British pop sensation Charli XCX kicked off the evening. Mary J. Blige got the crowd on their feet with a performance of her classic hit “Family Affair.” The evening culminated in an electrifying performance by the rock band Imagine Dragons.
Dior “Rose des Vents” jewellery collection.
With his wind rose or better the ‘‘Rose de vent‘‘ jewellery collection Dior takes us a voyage to the four winds. Victoire de Castellane designs the ‘’Rose de vent’’ for Dior Joaillerie highlighting that passion for colour that unites the designer with the Dior House. Turquoise blue and lapis lazuli, pink opal and pearlized white are the colours that Dior has embellished the bracelets, the sautoires and the long and short necklaces expanding to include pendants and rings. The jewellery is presented in an onyx version and another covered in diamonds. The collection broadens the horizons of the medallion jewel. The whole collection brings in mind moments of summer and sea and this is not strange since the story began at Granville, in the villa where Christian Dior had spent his childhood, overlooking the sea, perched on a cliff-top. The collection combines the star and the rose which is Dior’s favourite flower.
AGL at König Gallery
Attilio Giusti Leombruni teamed with König Galerie and it seems that the Berlin got an Italian boost to its art and fashion events. The König Galerie and AGL hosted an exclusive Gallery Weekend opening dinner for their famous guests on Thursday night. Two hundred international well-known guests were gathered to the dinner and among them there were the publisher Angelika Taschen, Peter Bläuer, the director of "The Liste", the art collector and Media entrepreneur Christian Boros and the stage and costume designer Aino Labarenz. Jan Ole Joensson, the singer from B.O.X.E.R and the Peaches singers attended the dinner, too. Artists couldn’t be excluded from that fashion-art event and among the guests were the artists Michael Sailstorfer, Christian Jankowski, Jeremy Shaw, Claudia Comte and Kira Lillie.
AGL, which is run by the three sisters, Vera, Sara and Mariana is the only shoe company in Italy managed by women. AGL went online in Europe two years ago and is planning to launch online in the U.S. in 2017.
König Gallery showcases young and rising talents, as well as numerous well-established artists from a younger generation. The gallery focuses on cross-media, concept-oriented and spatial approach work.
Kaviar Gauche Launches Bridal Concept Store
Duesseldorf's Koenigsallee flaunts a whole lot of exquisite designer stores, but until March 17th, an exclusive bridal concept store was yet to be present. Berlin-based designer duo Kaviar Gauche, aka Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, had their aim set on changing that. In a love-focused, bloomy ceremony, they launched their first Duesseldorf bridal concept store on the famous shopping mile in attendance of their elaborated clientele. Between champagne-colored walls and smoked-glass mirrors, guests such as modern art collector Julia Stoschek and director Oskar Roehler admired not only the bridal couture itself, but accessories and wedding essentials galore. The concept store is heaven-on-earth for a wedding planer, or at least the dream inspiration for a bride-to-be. Headpieces, shoes, bridesmaid dresses and registry outfits, even jewelry and candles – Kaviar Gauche makes sure there's nothing missing once you step up to the altar. All those pretty things are surrounded by tasteful design, centering around the steel tree-wardrobe designed by architect Amir Abadi. As a message on the wall puts it, on the Koenigsallee in Duesseldorf, you will not only find a wedding dress, but “everlasting love”. We do!
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2016 Eyewear Campaign
Cara Delevingne may have stopped walking the big runways, but she still has some of her modeling duties in mind – especially, if they involve her close friend Karl Lagerfeld. The British model stars in the new CHANEL eyewear campaign, which was teased by a flashing video released a few weeks ago. While the bespoke visualization presented a pair of unique CHANEL sunglasses adorned by a laser-cut quilt design, the campaign now shows a collection enhanced by more optics and sunglasses from the Plein and Bijou 2016 ranges. The Plein collection revisits models in a tie-dye optic, merging the colors from black to blue or white in the frame acetate. Bijou on the other hand focuses on a CHANEL code classic, the timeless camelia. Made from metal and enamel, it adorns the glasses in an abundance on their legs. Next to eyewear, the campaign also sees Delevingne sporting pieces from the CHANEL AIRLINES Ready-to-wear collection. A tweed cap and jacket and a grosgrain ribbon-bowed top complete her urban and contemporary CHANEL look, subtracting the need for a logo on the campaign pictures. Even if Miss Delevingne has abandoned the runways, we're still glad she makes time for her fashion friends – especially, if it's Karl Lagerfeld.
Breathe in some real alternative Berlin spirit. Get into 900m2 raw and industrial concept store LNFA which offers extraordinary shopping experience with a spice of exceptional style and mess. It presents carefully selected 90 young fashion designers from Germany, France, Italy, Turkey, Russia, Japan and Mexico. Combination of fashion, art, design, advertising, music and film industries brings the individual style to the aesthetics.
Among the bestsellers, daily inspiration comes from Studio Gampe, Siyah, Marcell Von Berlin, Thomas Hanisch, Preach, Esther Perbandt and Marcel Ostertag. Their creativity is implemented by Berlin streetstyle fashion and ever changing trends.
Get lost in a chaos and find yourself in the harmonious place which is the whole ever changing Berlin city collected into one location. Live through networking, fashion and arts.
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2016/17
The expression of “mix and match” usually recalls bright colors, eccentric patterns and wild fabric combinations. This might well be the case with many brands, but not with John Galliano.
For their latest Fall/Winter collection, the brand applied the “mix and match” theme, but with strict limitation to expression (one thing the Galliano name usually is not known for).
On the runway, viewers saw subtly stunning looks, created from a mixture of femininity and its counterpart, with dresses playing as big as a part as masculine shirts and blazers. It is the thought-out combination of pieces that gives this collection it's identity - it's the Galliano form of mix and match.
This season, Galliano is where the satin dress meets high-top sneakers, where the regalia-embellished jacket is teamed with see-through skirts, where Sporty Spice meets Jane Austen. Regarding the color palette, the search for bold and flashing tones will yield no results. The fabric selection is equally as toned-down and patterns are rather sprinkled than plattered. With John Galliano, it's a mixture - and it matches.
Looking for Marni: Eyewear Presentation
For its latest eyewear presentation, Italian label Marni stepped up its game. Their showcase “Looking For Marni” was not just a presentation, not just an exhibition or event: it was a theatrical demonstration, an intimate performance piece that highlights the famous links between art and fashion design. As Marni says, a brand is defined by its actions and not just the aesthetic it creates. Thus, the Italian house took its creative atmosphere to the stage and unveiled their showpiece at the Padiglione Visconti, a singular industrial space that is currently being used as a rehearsal atelier by the La Scala Theater. The theatrical spirit easily transferred itself onto Marni's presentation: a cast of dancers is presented with a variety of props, ranging from oversized tables and chairs to a raised stage – that is, if the performers are not dangling from the ceiling. The theater piece was conceived in collaboration with Susanna Beltrami and her dance company and has a duration of 90 minutes. Marni's aim is not solely to entertain, but also blend the lines between performer and spectator. Looking For Marni is both a theatrical and real-life experience. Poetic feelings ignite in between the performance and its viewers, bringing to life the incomparable, eclectic Marni spirit. Come to think of it, it's hard to think this presentation was only about eyewear, after all.
photos: D. Lovati
RIMOWA Bossa Nova
Most people would probably like to pack Alessandra Ambrosio into a suitcase and take her home with them. For now, those of you need to be satisfied with her advertising one. Ambrosio was revealed as the new face for German suitcase manufacturer RIMOWA’s. In the latest campaign, the Brazilian model poses with the brand’s new piece “Bossa Nova”. The name and choice of testimonial are not just coincidentally an allusion to Brazil: the travel accessory is actually manufactured there. For those seeking a little bit of Rio in their luggage, the Bossa Nova comes in a dark green with leather applications in green or beige, making it a style statement at the baggage claim. If only we all could step off a plane looking like Mrs. Ambrosio.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Paul Smith Women F/W 16
The Fall/Winter 2016 season sees Paul Smith once again turn towards the past. The British designer is the master of archive work and reinvention, and so it comes as no surprise that he applied it once again to his latest designs. The garments resemble a walk through an archive closet, with Paul Smith creatively picking his inspirations here and there. This time, they start in a very private closet: the one of his wife Pauline. Smith creates the image of a handsome woman with a nod to the sophisticated femininity he originally created from his men collections. Smith goes back to the 1970s and 80s, back when he was just starting out. From the latter decade, he takes the photo-print of an eaten apple and reworks it into prints, embroidery and appliqués in various scales. He also makes a halt at his own closet and takes on bicycle breeches. Those are met with raglan-sleeved coats and embroidered pleat dresses. Regarding accessories, the designer once again goes “way back”: all bags are equipped with new locks, taken from an old Paul Smith briefcase. Rework, revamp, refurbish – however Paul Smith does it, the journey to the past is always an exciting one.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016
When in New York, the Marc Jacobs models took to the runway, all the unscrupulous fashion crowd was left with was surprise. Few hours later, fashion critics found themselves in frenetic ecstasy about the new Jacbos designs, and there are plenty reasons why. It is hard to put this collection into words, as it was eclectic and layered – in both literal and fashion sense. Jacobs created the big show, defined by the big silhouette. Strutting on knee-high, laced boots, the models sported coats, blazers and capes in voluptuous egg shapes to be paired with impressively embellished dresses and loose sweaters. The materials one can’t even begin to enlist, for there are so many to choose from. Leather, denim, fur, feathers – Marc Jacobs has it all. The selection of models, who all presented a 1920s hair style, in parts was another surprise. One look was showcased by no other than Lady Gaga, who blended into the runway line-up quite effortlessly. For the grand finale, Jacobs later presented another enormous checkered cape, only to then bow to the applause as if nothing had happened. If only all surprises could be this magnificent.
CHANEL Opens on Königsallee in Düsseldorf
Get out your address books (pardon, smartphones) and switch to contacts: CHANEL has a new address! The Parisian brand changed its Düsseldorf location on the notorious shopping mile Königsallee to number 40. After having been located on the backside of an inner courtyard for years, CHANEL is now full front accessible to shoppers from allover the world. The new store opened its doors on February 10th and hosts 350 square meters of divine luxury goods. Customers enter the boutique via a gallery, where they are met by Andrei Molodkin's oil sculpture CHIC. Further on, an accessory room displays all smaller goods from handbags to sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. The watch collections of Mademoiselle Privé, J12 and Première find dedication in an additional section. Naturally, the clothes themselves deserve their own honoring: two intimate and comfortable Prêt-à-porter salons invite the shopper to prop down on a tweed sofa, lounge in a Wendell Castle chair or have a glance into the book on the Ingrid Donat table. New York architect Peter Marino was entrusted with the design of this particular boutique and incorporated the two CHANEL core characteristics: timeless modernity and Parisian refinement. Inspiration to the new rooms was Mademoiselle Chanel's famous apartment at Rue Cambon 31, where intimacy and elegance were united in every room. Safe to say that after such a precise reinvention process, Königsallee No. 40 is its equal in every way.
Peaches’ Free Drink Ticket
Peaches is heartbroken and it’s for everyone to see. The uninhibited singer has released the music video to her latest single “Free Drink Ticket”. The clip sees the songstress with a white-painted face and dressed in a leather-net-dress that, as often, exposes every inch of her body. While surrounded by similarly spare-dressed dancers, Peaches performs a kind of ceremony with a pig-headed snake that one can easily interpret as the person addressed in the song itself. “Free Drink Ticket” is a break-up anthem and probably the most honest and forward one to date. In her usual spoken-lyrics-style, the Canadian singer voices phrases like “you were shitting on me, how could I not smell it?” or “spineless coward, I can’t fucking stand liars”, adorned by the occasional thrown-in “fuck you”. The track was taken from Peaches’ 2015 LP “Rub” and is already the sixth release from the album. “Your personality turned to white powder, your brain’s clammed up chowder”, she says, “another free drink ticket, will that make it okay? Drink it up, bitch.” Cheers to you, Peaches.
Saatchi Gallery/Deutsche Bank Art Prize for Schools
Untitled by Praise Jeong, 17 years, Victorian College of the Arts Secondary School, Australia
To be fair, the closest that art and finance might have come to this day would be random paintings hanging in a bank accountant’s office. London’s Saatchi Gallery and global finance giant Deutsche Bank are about to change that. Their collaborative “Art Prize for Schools” enables and rewards international students to pursue their artistic endeavors. With a prize money ranging from 10.000 pound for the overall winning school and 2.000 for the single pupil, surely not only the creative challenge will get students going. Through the reward, Saatchi and Deutsche Bank urge schools to purchase appropriate computer, print and design material to secure that pupils can create their artwork in the best way possible. For the Deutsche Bank, this plan is part of a bigger picture: reducing youth unemployment by diminishing the problems at their very base. With Saatchi Gallery, one of London’s most renowned and high profile galleries on the pad, they certainly stand a good chance to spread out a high-end artistic message. Maybe, in a few years time, the pictures hanging in the bank accountant’s office won’t be so random anymore. Today, its creator might just be headed for the next lesson.
A free exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery will feature artworks from 20 shortlisted students from March 3-9, 2016.
A Working Man by Alyssa Diaz, 16 years, Edinburgh High School
Glitch by Edward Lamer, 18 years, Norwich School
ZUMA Restaurant to Open at Palazzo Fendi Rome
From March on, Rome’s Palazzo Fendi will be host to both high fashion and haute cuisine. The London based, award-winning restaurant ZUMA will open its tenth international and first Italian collection in rooms provided by the FENDI brand. The chefs take their inspiration from the popular Japanese izakaya’s, in which relaxed drinking and eating that embrace Japanese cookery are combined under one roof. Put simply, the ZUMA system focuses on modern Japanese dining that is authentic but not traditional. Guests will be able to experience the world of three kitchens: the main kitchen, the sushi counter and the robata grill. Here, guests can watch food become their dish: the chefs prepare the meals under an open view. Noriyoshi Muramatsu of Tokyo-based Studio Glitt has designed the Restaurant rooms, which respect the cultural heritage of the Palazzo Fendi whilst also capturing the style and elegance of ZUMA worldwide. ZUMA will be open for lunch Tuesday – Sunday from 12:00 midday to 14:30 and will be open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 19:30 to 23:00. Buon apetito!
KENZO's Captivating Snowbird
A lady, hopping from door to door, offering cake, eating with the old and lonely. You may think of scouts or desperate housewives, but you couldn't be more wrong. The lady actually knocking on every door in reach is the protagonist of KENZO's new SS16 movie “Snowbird”. Written and shot by director Sean Baker, the movie follows a (then) young woman on her way through a desert only populated by free-minded individuals living in trailers. As she eats a piece of the cake she baked with each of them, the young woman's story seems to unfold, only to switch to an unexpected ending. (Sounds teasing? Watch above.) While watching the 12-minute video, one almost is oblivious to the fact that this is a fashion campaign and probably surprised that it was shot entirely on iPhone. Additionally, the protagonist is nt played by a model, but Australian actress Abbey Lee. In Slab City, the rural oasis the movie was filmed in, she is joined by real inhabitants and actors who have been known for their myriad indelible endeavors in the film industry. The clothes may even be in the second row in this artistic film piece, but we sure still ask us how to get that girl knock on our door.
Keta Gutmane S/S 16
Hello from the outside: for Keta Gutmane, their latest SS16 collection is all about observation. Observation for the label creates a dialogue and builds a bridge between those who belong and those who were once lost. At Keta Gutmane, the outsider is never forgotten. For the new garments, the designers took loose inspiration from one of the greatest observers of all time: filmmaker Wim Wenders. Adapted to fashion, this inspiration translates into a combination of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring. To break it down even more: long oversized coats float along with sharply tailored poplin shirting. Fitted slim pants are teamed up with confident woolen blazers, whereas graphic trenchs are paired with coated cupro skirting. To not confuse the aesthetic, the collection is maintained by deep black and white, only occasionally interrupted by an expressive dash of checkered tartan. In conclusion, the collection forms are casually tailored silhouette that leaves the perfect room for observation. May it be from the inside, or the outside is of no importance. As Keta Gutmane said, we're always in a dialogue.
Balmain Pre-Fall 2016
If in 2016, a queen would have to hire a dressmaker, she would probably call up Olivier Rousteing. And after the reveal of his latest Pre-Fall collection, there is no doubt that the French designer would definitely be up for it. After all, his inspiration came from a time when there actually were queens with tailors belonging to the establishment. With the new designs, Olivier Rousteing takes us to the court of Versailles in the 18th century and into the boudouir of the legendary Madame Pompadour. Her sensual and elegant styles were a major influence to Rousteing, for in this collection, her signature silhouette finds itself in various riffs on the corset. Versailles opulence finds reflection in the luxurious fabrics like a variety of cashmeres, Jacquards, silks and paisleys. Madame Pompadour was known as a lover of details, so the tailor delivers beaded fringes, hanging tassels, thick ruffles and bold gold accents. Still, it's not just a history lesson Rousteing teaches us. Balmain is made for the modern woman, the confident fighter who is inspired by the bravery of the likes of Madame Pompadour. If we'll meet her, we'll curtsy. It seems the only right thing to do.
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Augustin Teboul F/W 16/17
Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul combine glamour and rock’n’roll in their collection like no other. The most astonishing design choice for FW 16/17 was hands down color. Both ladies are renowned for their femme fatale aesthetic circling 50 shades of black. This season, popping 80s hues made a guest appearance in delicate mesh structures and beading, from barely there tights to bodices, adding a glam rock touch in deconstructed knits and graphic structures to the all-black core of the collection. As a result, the Augustin Teboul woman becomes the naughty lovechild of Olivia Newton-John and Molly Ringwald. Delicate wovens mixed with luxe wool and leather pack some punch and cater to elegance and laissez-faire. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul always keep their eyes on their woman: an enigma wrapped in a riddle, teasing the beholder with lots of skin before pulling away, covering in long layers of darkness.
Estonian label Whitetail is renowned as one of the key players in sustainable fashion and ethical production. Designer Margit Peura stuck to her minimalist cuts, enhancing each design with a golden headpiece. A distortion of the viewer’s perspective was the result, putting the clothes rather than the individual behind them in focus. For FW 16/17 Whitetail worked with a range of materials and textures: knitted sweaters and dresses stand next to see-through chiffon blouses, heavy woolen coats and delicate woven skirts. Eclectic prints, appliques, buttons and ruffled hems add a playful twist to the collection. Bright colors transformed last season’s muted Whitetail aesthetic. This time around bold red, royal blue, light grey, khaki and salmon liven up glum winters skies.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Bally's Private Party: FW 2016 Menswear
When was the last time you attended a really good party? Like, actually, a really good one? Mesmerizing guests, good music and just the right amount of elusive small talk. Been some time, hasn't it? Well, Bally is about to invite you to the best party in a long time. Titled “A Checkered Past- Scene 1”, the brand released the menswear Fall/Winter collection along with the story of an edgy-but-glamorous ballroom party. The crowd: artists, rock stars, aristocrats and geeks – eventually everyone you wished for. Photographers lounge next to artists and talk about California, while a rock'n' roll frontman reminisces about his last tour. All of these very inspirational people have found their place in Bally's new collection. If the allover print shirt with kiss-inviting lips paired with some green fur coat isn't yelling for a rock star, then what is? If it's not the velvet suits and slouchy fedora hats that walk into the artist's wardrobe, then what is? If it's not the shiny, double-breasted coat and glasses that make for a good geek, please let us know, then what is? 2016 is not that old, but Bally has already hosted the party of the year and somehow, just very quietly, has become every one of their guests. Cheers!
Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Diesel Black Gold has a special delivery for you! Inspired by urban bike messengers, the label presented its menswear Fall/Winter collection at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. Creative Director Andreas Melbostad and his team thought of couriers riding their bikes through urban capitals while designing the garments that create a rebellious attitude in an industrial setting. References to functionality are obvious, with cycling pants and “double trousers” (shorts stitched to narrow-cut styles) making it easy to move through the city, even if you’re not delivering a package. Set against that, capes, parkas and field jackets with voluminous silhouettes submit the “fashion” element in this collection. Regarding accessories, the bike messenger is present again: cross-body bags and leather pouches for the arm keep the hands free – for whatever the urban setting has to hold for you. Leather combat boots top off the primarily dark collection in style. Well, seems like tomorrow, we’ll be taking the bike to work. If it’s that stylish?
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 Runway Show
Like pulling a fan from the purse, last weekend, Milan pulled out its best, notable designers and brands to feature their latest menswear F/W 16 collections. One piece of that multifaceted fan was Calvin Klein Collection. The label’s Creative Director Italo Zuccheli presented his collection, featuring 42 looks shown by seven male and four female models, at the company’s headquarter. The gender-crossing casting is set to underline the universal power of men’s tailoring, which was also highly visible in the new designs. Keeping it both classy and classic, the garments include core pieces fundamental to the brand’s identity and menswear essentials. The exquisite tailoring stands next to sumptuous textures and silhouettes. This collection’s eye catchers are a selection of dazzling outerwear pieces, displaying a range of gold, silver and rose gold. Other than that, Calvin Klein’s color palette stays rather neutral, with a selection of black, white, camel and ivy rounding up a collection that spins between eye catching and toned-down pieces. Of course, in the end, Calvin Klein finds a way to balance itself out. That’s the key to fashion, isn’t it? Felicitazione!
PAULE KA Spring/Summer Advertising Campaign 16
For a grown-up, elegant and sophisticated woman, is there ever such a thing as a crush on clothes? We believe there is, and it comes in form of PAULE KA’s SS 16 advertising campaign. For the latest visuals, the brand collaborated with photographer Miles Aldridge to catch the spirit of both Pop Art and 50s French Riviera. Aldridge and Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, new Creative Director of PAULE KA, were inspired by the bold colors and cubist forms featured in the paintings of Richard Lindner, as well as the poetic portraits of Henri Matisse. Together, they have moulded this inspiration into a contemporary vision of Parisian elegance. French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot poses in the ‘couture-chic’ the brand is known for, embodying femininity and sophistication. Not only with the design has the brand gone on a trip down memory lane, but also with this campaign’s execution. Aldridge, being one of the few non-digital photographers left in his realm, releases a special edition of collectible Polaroids along with the campaign. Paris, Polaroids and Pop Art? We’re certain that grown-up, elegant women around the world will be crushing about this.
FENDI Women SS16 Ad Campaign
Flowers for a beautiful woman. Who wouldn’t wish for that? FENDI is here to help. But instead of placing a bunch of nice flowers on our doormat, the brand has spread them all over their latest designs, revealed in their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. Whether it’s fur, plexi, studded leather or graphic details – flowers are key at FENDI this year. The new campaign transfers a good breeze of spring, applied also to the clothing through pure eclecticism, layered luxury and the playful alternation of lengths, cuts and volumes. Natural hair and makeup make clear that this campaign is not an advertisement for little girls – but for the strong woman on the look for a fresh, cool wardrobe. For these visuals, Karl Lagerfeld took to the camera again and shot models Edie Campbell and Vanessa Moody surrounded by larger-than-life-sized flowers. “Edie and Vanessa are the girls of the moment, each with a different style representing the typical model of fashion of today and the woman I thought of for this collection is the one who can identify herself with these girls.", the designer commented. Other than flowers and models, one can also make out FENDI bags such as “Peekabo”, “3Jours” or “Micro Baguette” as the stars of the new campaign. And of course, they blossom in their most beautiful way, too. We sure wouldn’t mind one of those on our doormat.
Burberry at London Collections: Bowie Tribute
Burberry’s London Collections: Men show didn’t only include their latest designs in menswear, but transformed into probably the fastest tribute to the death of David Bowie. Coincidentally, the day of Burberry’s presentation had also been the day of Bowie’s passing. Models presented the garments with glitter on their face and Bowie’s name scribbled across their hands. With 2016 being the year Burberry announced as the unison of its three lines London, Brit and Prorsum, Christopher Bailey and his team went through the archive and got inspired by multiple eras from the late 19th century to the 1970s. This collection’s lovechild was the track top, worn either as outerwear or layered under typical Burberry coats. Colors were as varied as ever, ranging from warm moss greens to neon reds. Of course, with Burberry always being one of the most anticipated labels to present at LC:M, Bailey didn’t disappoint and joined this season’s train of military inspiration. And with a portfolio that diverse, there is no doubt that Mr. Bowie up in heaven would have been proud.
Photos: Marcus Tond/indigitalimages.com
Casely-Hayford: Irregimental Youth F/W 16
London Collections: Men last weekend was all about protection. Uniformity and regalia seem to have been an ongoing inspiration in multiple collections, whether referenced subtly or interpreted with full-on dedication. Design duo Casely-Hayford has taken on this omnipresent inspiration to focus on British subcultures old and new. The concept sounds complex: appropriating establishment uniformity to create anti-establishment individualism. The result are references from the early 60s, like the Beatles’ psychedelic “Sergeant Pepper” album cover, to the use of military clothing by today’s Hip Hop favorites. To throw in some more edge, the father and son duo also incorporated elements from the Skinhead and 90’s rave culture. For the accessories, Casely-Hayford collaborated with American shoe brand Sperry to combine the roots of craftsmanship and modern sportswear. A key item is the hybrid of boat shoe and creeper, performing a split between past Teddy boys and today’s sportswear modernists. Nevertheless, military stays the driving force in this particular collection. Hand embroidered regimental elements are being reimagined in MA1-jackets. Oversized nylon coats come in the essential military green and not only make for a big appearance – but also protect. Because that is what it’s all about. It’s on!
SIBLING FW Men 2016
SIBLING succumbs to obsession. With their latest AW16 collection, the designers dedicated their work to the Pop culture of the 1970s and 1980s. More precisely, two icons that have subverted in the worlds of music and art like few others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat. Eccentric in every way, Jones’ album covers inspire the collection’s color palette. Acid yellow and blood red shoot through traditional colors like royal blue and grey, making the viewer squint in a good way. Now, it doesn’t just take the color palette to make an honest dedication - which is why for the silhouettes, the label refers to Basquiat. Luxurious Dormeuil fabric jackets, baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets emphasize the loose shapes Basquiat is known for. Of course, his artwork is not to be left out and finds dedication in the SIBLING Fair Isle sweater. Going back to Jones, the Boxing Shorts make an allusion to her combat image. Completed with a more feminine, glittering Boxing Gown, the man is not only ready to rumble but also to revel. Now, if all of this is the result of an obsession, we might just get infected, too.
Prada SS16 Campaign
The Prada man is vulnerable – and in that lies hies truth. What sounds poetic can actually be decoded as the message behind Prada's Spring/Summer 16 campaign. The artistic concept distances itself from the image of over-stressed masculinity and focuses on more casual and relaxed aesthetics. Mirroring that are the campaign's three testimonials: actors Matthew Beard, Billy Howle and Logan Lerman. Shot by Craig McDean in a New York nightclub, the pictures convey authentic emotions and natural realness. Beard, Howle and Lerman appear caught-in-the-moment, seemingly lost in thought, but also keep an unbroken connection to the camera. Altogether the campaign is characterized by dark colors, Howles shimmering blue trousers being the exception. This mood goes along with straight cuts, minimalist tailoring and timeless accessories. Who said it's bad being vulnerable, after all?
Paul Smith for David Bowie: Blackstar
In celebration of the release of his latest album “Blackstar” on January 8th, David Bowie has cooperated with British brand Paul Smith for a set of limited T-Shirts. The designs feature the same logo as Bowie’s album, consisting of a prominent star in the middle, underlined by a row of smaller star fragments. Graphic designer Jonathan Barnbrook, who also collaborated with Smith and Bowie for the latter’s 2013 album “The Next Day”, has conceived the artwork concept. Available in black and white, the shirts are up on sale at paulsmith.co.uk from the day of the album release. Paul Smith was happy to renew the cooperation with Bowie after the two have been friends and collaborators for years. “I’ve known David Bowie for many years and have been fortunate to spend time with him in the past. I was delighted when he asked me to collaborate on the release of The Next Day in 2013 and equally delighted to work with him again on creating a T-shirt for the release of “Blackstar”, the designer commented. The album is Bowie’s 27th studio work.
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Following the release of their colorful, eclectic Pre-Fall 2016 campaign, GUCCI has presented the next visuals for the upcoming year. The Spring/Summer 16 campaign takes us to an equally eclectic city: Berlin. Shot by Glen Luchford, the models pose in again amazingly vibrant clothing. The settings are picked from everyday life: clubs, stations, rooftops (maybe not that everyday life) and shopping malls. And just as in the Pre-Fall campaign, animals once again inspired GUCCI’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Why else is the new it-accessory a life-size peacock? Naturally, the collection’s designs also remind of past decades, with the 70ies once again not only hinted but very present. Alessandro Michele takes us on a pretty little voyage, not only in style, but also in mind. If only Berlin party nights really would happen every day.
Anselm Kiefer Retrospective at Centre Pompidou
The core of French exhibition locations, Paris’ Centre Pompidou hosts a retrospective of the œuvres of famous German artist Anselm Kiefer. Starting last December, the exhibition is set to run until April 16 and features over 150 pieces from the artist’s career. Since Kiefer has been active for several decades, the exhibition will include works from the 1960s until now. Around 60 paintings from important collections around the world are united for the first time and accompanied by other graphic works, sculptures and installations. Since the start of his career, Kiefer’s work has been defined by the usage of multiple techniques that transfer into the possibility of a broad interpretation. He was an important contributor to the revival of German paintings in the 1970s, along with much worshipped colleagues like Gerhard Richter and Georg Baselitz. For anyone who wants to get lost in the world of a thoughtful, artistic genius, a trip to the Centre Pompidou should be on the list for early 2016.
Marc O'Polo Spring/Summer 2016
While now actually might be the time to think of festive dinners, gifts and winter walks, the fashion world is already one step ahead. Within these days, the new Spring/Summer campaigns are being revealed, and casual brand Marco O'Polo is the next to present their latest coup. The team has decided to continue their path of featuring well known testimonials in their cozy-and-cool garments. Follow-up to the likes of Uma Thurman and Jeff Bridges are Hollywood darlings Josh Hartnett and Dree Hemingway. The two actors pose for the womenswear line “Natural High” and menswear line “Natural Explorer” in the new SS16 campaign. The expression “natural” once again is key to the concept of Marc O'Polo. For these particular visuals, the brand has teamed up with photography icon Bruce Weber. To have naturalness even inspire the photo sessions, the campaign was shot in Weber's house in Montauk, New York. Being both a hideaway place and weekend escape, the house immediately drew in the campaign testimonials. The result are photos that capture the collection in its most pure way: casual, not complicated, sophisticated. After almost 50 years of brand history, Marc O'Polo once again lives up to its own concept: stay true to yourself, no matter what you do.
Gigi Hadid Announced as New Tommy Hilfiger Ambassador
American heritage brand Tommy Hilfiger has announced a new partnership with international supermodel Gigi Hadid. The 20-year-old will be the new global brand ambassador, starting in Fall 2016. As a part of this partnership, Hadid will introduce her very first own capsule collection featuring apparel, footwear, accessories and even a special scent. “She is truly the definition of today’s “Tommy Girl” – her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool”, Tommy Hilfiger gushes over the model. Hadid will also launch exclusive events in key markets around the world including the Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The campaign will be shot in New York in 2016.
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
To find the middle way in life is always a tough choice. Think about your place of residence. What’s more to like, the country retreat or the fancy penthouse downtown? Don’t dismay, American brand Coach helps us ease the way between prairie and Park Avenue with their Pre-Fall collection 2016. Inspired by the great American landscapes, the collection dips into earthy colors and strong materials without losing the modern East cost vision of femininity. To make the collection more complex, the playful prairie-goth attitude is interrupted by sporty references to varsity and basketball – American legacy at its best. Furry boots also are a must, combined with traditional fur-lined leather jackets or cowgirl-inspired dresses. Too cold for fall? Throw on the furry, patched stole and you’re ready to go. Destination: city or countryside? You decide.
DKNY x New Museum Host Intimate Miami Beach Dinner
In celebration of a new partnership December 2, 2015, saw DKNY and New Museum host an exclusive dinner as part of the Miami Beach Art Basel. As guests were top names in fashion and art, they included the likes of Lisa Phillips, Shelley Fox Aarons, Dominique Levy and Karen Wong. With creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, DKNY is collaborating with the art institution to further advocate women artists, as the New Museum has made one of its top priorities over the past 38 years. “The New Women’s Project” brings focus and support to the exhibitions and commissions of five women artists this coming year. Not only this, but DKNY will become the Lead Sponsor of the New Museum’s spring 2016 exhibitions, including solo exhibitions by Nicole Eisenman, Goshka Macuga, Cally Spooner and more, whilst overseen by Massimiliano Gioni, Artistic Director of the museum.
Miami Beach Art Basel
Catherine Sullivan with George Lewis and Sean Griffin: Afterword via Fantasia (2015)
Louise Nevelson, Untitled, 1964. (Photo: Courtesy of © 2015 Estate of Louise Nevelson/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York)
In this year’s Miami Art Basel, 267 major galleries from all over North and Latin America, Europe, Asia and Africa will exhibit some of contemporary and Modern art’s most significant pieces alongside the field’s most prominent emerging names. Kicking off on December 3, 2015, paintings, sculptures, films and more will display must-see pieces from the likes of Anselm Kiefer and Louise Nevelson, whilst the Rubell Family Collection “No Man’s Land: Women Artists from the Rubell Family Collection” will exhibit over 100 different female artists. Not only will there be dramatic installations and large-scale artworks, but the four-day-fair also presents a number of cultural events and performances, so make sure to check out the calendar!
The Art Basel at Miami Beach is on from December 3 to December 6, 2015.
Mircea Suciu -The deceiver - 2015 - 40 x 58 cm - oil, acrylic and monoprint on linen
RICHARD PRINCE, Untitled (cartoon), 2015, inkjet and silkscreen on canvas, 73 1/4 × 55 inches (186.1 × 139.7 cm) © Richard Prince. Photo by Rob McKeever
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Acne Studios Open New Berlin Flagship
October 31, 2015, marked a big day for Acne Studios as they unveiled a flagship store in a city very special to the label. As chairman Mikael Schiller put it, “Berlin is a quite emotional city for us, as it was the first city outside of Scandinavia where we opened a shop more than a decade ago”.
The new 260 sqm store is located on Potsdamer Stra?e, the centre of Berlin’s art gallery district, and is consistent with the new Acne Studios Interior aesthetic. With sharp stainless steel walls and chalky pale yellow concrete walls, the clever design is reminiscent of Berlin taxis and houses the ready-to-wear collections for both men and women including the FW15 line, as well as accessories, denim and footwear. The label have also announced that New York will be the next city to welcome new Acne Studios boutiques.
Christian Dior Couture comes to London
Taking a piece of Paris to the doorstep of Londoners, Dior has opened a brand new pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. In an old Victorian building, just steps away from Hyde Park, lies Dior’s temporary address. Surrounded by its contemporary interior, customers can find Raf Simons’ FW15 collections for the label, including women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The loft-like space is occupied with pieces by renowned interior designers, such as a Vladamir Kagan sofa, a Nuage table by Guy De Rougemont and Miroirs Gouttes by Hubert Le Gall. Christian Dior’s favourite color takes centre stage with a magnificent pink dressing room in the middle of the store.
Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-‘015
Debuting during the Tortona Design Week 2015 in Milan, Stone Island are bringing a retrospective exhibition of their innovative explorations into light refraction to New York. “Reflective Research ‘992-‘015” recounts the various textile manipulations that Carlo Rivetti’s label have experimented with since 1992, during an extensive study of safety workwear clothing. This involves an approach of using resins consisting of thousands of glass microspheres in coating textiles – meaning that when these fabrics hit the light in a dark setting, they completely light up.
The nostalgic exhibition includes a number of experimental processing techniques adopted by the brand on finished textiles and numerous items that never made it to production. The Stone Island Fall/Winter 2015/16 Collection will accompany it in a special presentation. Impressive.
“Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-'015’” is on exhibition at 41 Greene St, New York, until November 15, 2015.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2016 Womens Collection
In the fourth season of Womenswear at the label, Glenn Martens creates an energetic, urban collection.
Graphic cuts sharply contrast lengths, from the super short to the floor grazing, whilst displaying a diverse range of shapes. Spliced garments and Martens’ continued exploration into drapery elongate silhouettes and are reflective of the architectural lines of a Gothic Church. Realized in a warm palette, fabrics are rich and accessorized with chunky metallic cuffs.
With Martens’ signature style of tailoring, he cleverly mixes masculinity with sensual femininity, ultimately creating a contemporary, innovative SS16 collection, quite unlike any other.
Bryan Adams: Exposed
Musician, photographer and founder of ZOO Magazine, Bryan Adams is nothing if not a multitasker. Self-taught, Adams’ photographic material has earned him several distinctions, including two of the German LeadAwards. Primarily focusing on fashion and portraits of celebrities, his work captures the energy and personality of each subject, who have included the likes of Amy Winehouse, Mick Jagger and even Queen Elizabeth II (which, for any collectors out there, actually made it’s way onto Canadian stamps).
His first book of photos entitled “Exposed” is now celebrated in exhibition form, welcoming visitors to see first hand his most remarkable images, in a comprehensive retrospect. The exhibition will run until November 28, 2015, at the Young Gallery, Brussels.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have transported us to the heart of the Meditteranean Summer with their latest line for Kenzo.
A decidedly young collection, it is packed with crop tops, bodysuits and mini skirts, not to mention their brilliantly reimagined 90s waist bags. Accessorizing with ornate jewelry and contemporary, gladiator-style thigh high boots, Lim and Leon elaborately mix occasions in each look whilst exploring bold tribal prints in vivid colours. The end effect is busy, but a cheerful one at that.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Putting the pizzazz back in fashion, Alber Elbaz staged his latest collection for the label in front of a theatre setting. The show began with the Lanvin woman’s day wear, or some sleek reworks of tailored suits, before suddenly turning to what really matters to Elbaz; cocktail dresses and evening wear.
On came a parade of asymmetric gowns amidst a sequined snowball effect with numerous ruffles and satin bows. Next was a dramatic progression to bold Lanvin prints, lace edging, corsages and raincoats.
Overall this collection oozes the eclectic, 1930s glamour we have seen traces of in Paris Fashion week so far. What makes this one stand out is the elaborate playfulness of Elbaz, who is clearly just out for an absolutely fabulous time.
Studio Chérie, Berlin
One of the city’s favorite shooting locations, the Chérie Studios are two professional rental studios for photography and events located in Berlin Neuköln, or the city’s prime art district.
Formerly a confectionary factory, the two industrial lofts offer a unique charm and atmosphere to their 350msq of creative space, with studio 1 including a 6x6m double infinity curve (cyclorama). Chérie Studios also provide their clients with a full production service that involves photography, set styling and catering.
Gagosian Gallery presents Urs Fischer: Fountains
Artist Urs Fischer (b.1973) is in constant search of sculptural solution, envisaging and producing objects undergoing psychic transformation in an extraordinary number of materials, whilst injecting his own, sardonic sense of humor into his works.
The current collection is based around functional fountains, or “active sculptures”, transforms galleries into humid and animated places. After being built from hand-made clay models, lumpen fountains are cast in bronze, with one taking the formation of a flowing garden hose pipe draped over a human skeleton, which is arched across a chair… Needless to say, this is an example of Fischer’s lexicon of darkly humorous “vanitas”.
Obscure paintings surround the fountains inside the galleries, with a dramatically abstracted photographic image of Fischer’s own face as each one’s background. These images contrast representational systems with different cosmic orders.
Urs Fischer: Fountains will exhibit at the Gagosian Gallery, Los Angeles, until October 17, 2015.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Presentation at MFW
After debuting in New York Fashion Week, the women’s ready-to-wear Calvin Klein Collection featured in a Milan presentation along with select men’s and women’s Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Swimwear lines.
Francisco Costa presented the contemporary collections on suspended mannequins underneath a video of her women’s Spring/Summer 2016 Calvin Klein Collection on the ceiling whilst accessories were displayed over black platforms. Kevin Carrigan presented the other lines using models posing as skaters in an abandoned pool complete with graffiti in Los Angeles, California.
There was a bit of a retro moment underlining the presentation, with the largely denim ensembles of Calvin Klein Jeans accessorized with snakeskin or suede boots and platform sandals. These vintage-inspired looks showcased denim one-pieces and A-Line skirts that in some cases appeared with a fade-effect or distressed.
Etro Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The classic romantic, Etro this season is packed with more of the label’s signature, intricate prints. Blending folk-style with Victorian-style florals in a beautiful palette, there are ruffles, lace paneling and a matching choker in any given look. Latticed boots appear amongst satin ballet pumps with embroidered paisley bags accessorizing.
With such a keen eye for the details and so much going on in any given look, Veronica Etro has created a world for us to get lost in with each, individual piece.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Costume National Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Inspired by a film noir comes the latest collection from Ennio Capasa. As expected, it entails a largely black pallet, with the incorporation of white and red.
Deconstructed blazers, ruffled skirts and cut out shoulders explore the various shapes Capasa entertains in this collection. Geometric patterns in lace and embroidery, glitter prints and even a metallic ruched dress showcase an anomaly for the designer, and an exploration into “sensuality”.
Never one to follow a trend, you cannot help but wonder whether the business of the shows of his contemporaries this past week in Milan have pushed him to venture out of his comfort zone this season.
Prada Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Vintage-inspired collections with an eccentric, Italian twist seems to have been a running trend this season at Milan. And who could do it better than Miuccia Prada I ask you. Her line is an army of skirt suits and coats brought to life in classic tweeds, checks or vivid striped leather and suede, alongside the occasional appearance of a translucent number.
Perhaps if another designer had done this you couldn’t help but get lost in repetition… But Prada knows how to play it. She showers each look with her signature style of peculiar accessories and whirls up excitement in her humble onlookers. This season, it’s a circle motif – think lace scarves, sequins and glitzy bauble earrings.
This exceptional collection is proving to be the highlight of the week at Milan and so for that, we salute you Prada. Oh, and for those incredible gold lips as well.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
As promised, Philipp Plein has delivered another rock-pop spectacle with his show at MFW. Studded boots, a robot-backed Courtney Love performance and Black Swan style tutus, it is Terminator meets eighties Rock God and conjures up memories of his SS16 menswear line.
Leather biker jackets, emblazoned with patchwork badges reading quotes like “GOD SAVE HIP ROCK”, are covered in his signature studs and teamed with slinky metallic dresses.
With technology being a key ingredient to this collection, models walking the catwalk as if on a conveyor belt… This was of course after a robot had accessorized them.
Replay Footwear Launch Online 24h Shoe Design Competition
In collaboration with Desall, a digital startup boasting an international platform of 60,000 creatives, Replay Footwear have announced a shoe design contest to extend their current shoe line and design their “24th shoe”.
The urban, unisex shoe must reflect the Replay brand DNA and must be of an original, unique design, appropriate for 24/7 use, with a monetary prize at stake. Replay fans can follow the competition and vote online at Replays Facebook and Instagram pages. Prospective entrants must personally subscribe to the Desall platform to participate in the competition. The contest ends in November.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Loewe's Sneak Preview of Latest Campaign
To the delight of East Londeners, last Thursday saw LOEWE reveal a preview to their upcoming campaign on a digital billboard in Shoreditch, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week, the preview confirms an ongoing collaboration between photographer Rudi Meisel and the fashion label.
One image presents Raquel Zimmerman in a Mount-Fuji style shot. With Benjamin Bruno as stylist, the image shows her in a contemporary, transparent look. Other images involve Meisel’s original self-portrait series and the brand’s popular Puzzle bag.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Paul Smith Presents “A Suit To Travel In”
Paul Smith has been making suits since the 70s. As the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign proves, they know what they’re doing. The short film shows the British Olympic medalist Max Whitlock demonstrating the sheer flexibility of “A Suit To Travel In”, which is available for men and women. Without causing a single crease, Whitlock performs a sequence of impressive, dynamic gymnastic moves... If that can’t convince you then I don’t know what can.
Canali Launch Elegant Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Photographed by Van Mossevelde + N, a dapper Richard Biedul casually poses on iconic 50s style furniture wearing the collection that oozes a casual sophistication. In front of neon lights the current Canali campaign continues with a Milanese theme from their previous collection, celebrating the city in its buzzing 1950s era when contemporary ideas merged with classic tradition.
The Fall/Winter 2015 line of menswear is packed with geometric prints and intricate patterns upon luxurious yet unique fabrics. With the made-in-Italy high quality textures that the label is internationally renowned for, sleek designs realized in a minimal palette are kept exciting with flashes of “Canali” yellow, petrol blue and ivory.
The campaign will be shown globally on outdoor advertising, print media and online.
Xavier Dolan Realizes His Fashion Dreams with Louis Vuitton
Once hailed Quebec Cinema’s Boy Wonder, Xavier Dolan now celebrates being the face of Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Dolan shot to fame with his directorial debut, “J’ai tué ma mère” at the tender age of 20. His fifth feature film, “Mommy”, also gained him international recognition in winning last year’s Jury Prize at Cannes Film Festival.
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Louis Vuitton’s showcases Ombré, the fashion label’s latest collection of leather goods. Dolan models two iconic bags from the range, the Keepall and the Porte-Documents Voyage Bandoulière. The actor/director/Paris-front-row-sitter, who has claimed it to have always been a childhood dream of his to front a luxury fashion brand, can now safely tick one off his bucket list.
Louis Vuitton’s newest campaign featuring Xavier Dolan hits magazines this October.
Moncler Announce Opening of New Boutique in Costa Mesa, California
Moncler unveil latest store in the exclusive Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa. This luxury shopping centre is regarded as one of California’s most significant. The one-story boutique welcomes you to lose yourself in the world of Moncler, stocking the label’s mens and womenswear collections beside a huge array of accessories.
With the marble floors, French wooden paneling and two large store windows, designed by the Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, this new boutique is worth the visit. If unfortunately you can’t make it all the way to California, the highly established Moncler can also be found all over the world in cities and ski resorts.
Mulberry Enlist Actor Freddie Fox to Help Unveil New Men’s Collection
Known for their iconic English image, it is perhaps then not surprising that Mulberry have sought the help of English actor Freddie Fox in unveiling their latest concept, their new season exclusive Multi-Tasker Holdalls in Dazzle Camouflage. Reworking the classic military camo-print into a novel geometric design, the contemporary pattern appears on the classic Mulberry clipper as well as two new Multi-tasker styles in grey and blue.
Based on versatility and functionality, the Multi-tasker range offers a holdall and backpack whose handles are cleverly designed to flatten against the bag when not in use. This innovative feature is perfect for the modern-day, urban man who cycles to work everyday. Proving this is Freddie Fox, who in Mulberry’s new campaign walks us through a day in his life in London whilst using his Multi-Tasker Holdall, which is in Dazzle Camouflage. Also available in the collection are a range of accessories, including wallets and scarves.
Boris Mikhailov is Awarded The Goslar Kaiserring 2015
The internationally renowned Boris Mikhailov is rewarded for his groundbreaking efforts in photography, in particular, documenting Soviet Society. Following the footsteps of other revolutionary modern artists, including Gerhard Richter and more recently Matthew Barney, the Ukrainian photographer will accept the prestigious Goslar Kaiserring later this year.
Without any prior training, Boris Mikhilov began to pursue photography whilst working in a factory as an engineer. Experimenting with various techniques, he played around with pictorial material. From primarily capturing his life and the ordinary people who surrounded him on film, he went on to use photography as a medium to make social comments about the regime governing Berlin and the area in which he lived.
These astounding images have gone on to win Boris Mikhailov global recognition. After exhibiting his work in the West from the late 80s, he has acquired numerous awards and his solo collections of works can be found in huge art institutions such as MOMA, New York, and the Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris.
Boris Mikhailov receives the Goslar Kaiserring 2015 on October 10.
Armani Exchange: New Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Giorgio Armani’s latest offering presents an urban city landscape as the backdrop, with models venturing around New York in a variety of relaxed shots.
The menswear looks adopt an undeniable Autumnal feeling with the likes of models Sang Woo and George Eliot in denim suits, layered sweaters and the odd splash of paisley print.
Emma Stern Nielson and Charlotte Carey are the faces of the womenswear campaign. The combination of tailored shirts, wide leg trousers and oversized jumpers give the collection a boyish edge.
See the online boutique of Armani Exchange to view more of this minimal Fall/Winter 2015/16 campaign.
Diesel SS/15 Campaign: #DieselHigh
Rise above. Tolerance. Inclusiveness. LOVE. This is Diesel’s new year’s resolution. With the blazing horns of equality resonating through the Diesel motto, the SS2015 campaign takes fashion to another level. Explained and conceived by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the campaign runs with the #DieselHigh slogan’s provocative and optimistic message – “It’s elevating yourself. Elevating your spirit. Whatever it takes, however you do it. Wherever you are.” The celebration of the unique individual and the spirit of diversity is deeply rooted within Diesel’s DNA. Here it is fully expressed in the SS2015 #DieselHigh formulation – a resounding nod towards the sirens of tolerance, equality and unconditional love. www.diesel.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Joan Jett had a lovechild with Prince and their union was a match made in Armani Haute Couture heaven. The rebellious, confident air of the 80’s inspired collection was undeniable. There were short raven-haired wigs, boldly colored ombre sequin getups, bulky geometric accessories and puffy but glamorous feather creations. Nevertheless, the elegance seethed out of every garment, its glamour needing no heel. The elevated 80’s looks were however strengthened by the choice of flat footwear, allowing for the eyes to focus wholeheartedly on the beautiful shimmer of the Privé wonder.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
Guess: His & Hers
Forget everything you know about denim. Guess’ slogan challenges you to ponder the age old adage of ‘no denim on denim’ with their denim capsule collection. Who doesn’t like to shake up the rules every once in a while? Well forget everything about what you’d think a denim suit would look like – Guess throws all the rules out of the window and presents the tailored denim suit… and nails it. The collection showcases the customization of the sophisticated suit, where Guess presents a complete reversal of this thought-to-be fashion faux pas. A top to toe denim suit . A sexy one. For both him and her. The tailored denim items will be available from September 2015.
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Bags were flung across shoulders attached to a literal chain – imitating a heaviness of memory and past. Indeed, Simons’ influences were perhaps more obvious than not, with headscarves cloaked around the models’ faces and that patterned beige coat that seemingly every single elderly woman ever depicted onscreen is in possession of. The chained bags might be symbolic of these vestiges of the past, clinging onto the next generation – here, most explicitly, through clothing. Raf Simons’ collection is perhaps steeped in somewhat heavy conceptualism, but it’s also totally cool.
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
Art Basel June 18 – 21
The premier international art show for Modern and Contemporary work, Art Basel brings together an impressive amalgam of leading galleries worldwide to the very heart of Europe. Every artistic medium is represented, from painting, sculpture, installations and videos to prints, photography and performance. Described as the ‘Olympics of the Art World’, around 300 galleries from across the globe will ascend upon the Swiss town to view more than 4000 artists. Galleries such as MOT International, Esther Schipper, Zeno X Gallery and Galerie Isabella Bortolozzi will be presenting wide arrays of artists including Wu Tsang, Anton Corbijn, Roman Ondák and Elisabeth Price.
Ulay, Retouching Bruises, 1975. Stand J10
Phillippe Parreno, Speech Bubbles. Hall 2.1. Booth S1.
Michaël Borremans, The Horse, 2015. Hall 2.1, Booth P4
Wu Tsang, DAMELO TODO // ODOT OLEMAD, 2010-2011/14.
Laure Prouvost, It Heat Hit, 2010. Stadtkino Basel, Klostergasse 5, June 16.
In addition to the display of great masters and emerging talents, the show offers a program packed with informative and inspiring events, from symposiums, to films and artist talks. Talks on offer include artist talks presented by Danish artist Danh Vö and Curator Manuela Ammer, to conversations surrounding the public and private spheres of art globally. Among many others on this impressive rooster is Curator of the Serpentine Gallery Hans Ulrich Obrist, Solveig Øvstebø, executive Director and Chief Curator of The Renaissance Society and the artist Wael Shawky.
As one of the many artists present, founding father of performance art Ulay will exhibit parts of his new and previous works. Following his recent collaboration with ZOO, issues of ZOO No. 47 will also be present at his stand.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
Converse Rubber Tracks – Who Wants To Play?
Unlocking the doors to iconic studios the world over, Converse Inc. announces their global program Converse Rubber Tracks. Legendary spaces such as Abbey Road, Sunset Sound, Converse’s own two Rubber Tracks studios make up just some of the 12 landmark studios that will provide aspiring musicians the chance to record original music at absolutely no cost whatsoever.
Since its flagship studio opened in Brooklyn in 2011, the Converse Rubber Tracks team has collaborated with over 900 emerging artists, providing access to top-level recording equipment and instruments at no cost – with the artist retaining all rights. Converse’s Global Music Marketing Director Jed Lewis outlined Converse’s long dedication to the music industry, “As a brand so deeply rooted in the next generation of creative spirits, we’re eager to make history while inspiring creativity and self-expression among music communities worldwide.”
Global registration remains open until Wednesday, June 24th and is open to all emerging artists, bands and musicians aged 18 and older, of all genres and across the globe to register for this one-in-a-lifetime opportunity!
For more information and a chance to chase your recording-studio dreams, go to
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
MOKE Returns With Their New Single ‘LET IT BURN’
Hailing from the canals of Amsterdam, Moke returns after a one and a half year hiatus. With the announcement of their upcoming fourth studio album, ‘LET IT BURN’ signals the return of a long-awaited return to the music scene.
With their distinctive guitar and newly incorporated influences brought from sources such as the keyboardist Eddy Steeneken and the Swedish producer Daniel Gibson. ‘LET IT BURN’ is the prelude to the upcoming album to be released this fall, as well as the first celebratory ring of their 10th anniversary.
Over ten years the band has enjoyed accolades such as achieving gold for their debut album ‘Shorland’, performances in prominent Dutch festivals (such as Pinkpop and Lowlands), to theatre and European tours, including a unique collaboration with the Metropole Orchestra.
Ease the wait of their album release with ‘LET IT BURN’, now on Spotify.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
TERRANOVA 'Restless' out on KOMPAKT
Following their acclaimed 2012 album Hotel Amour, TERRANOVA presents their new magnum opus RESTLESS. Consisting of the electronic DJ/Producer duo Fetisch and &ME, the latest release is a groovy ten-track collection of cosmic melodies.
The duo’s sixth LP delivers solid sounds for house aficionados, featuring collaborators such as Brooklyn singer Mandel Turner, Denmark’s Lydmor, Bonhomme and longtime collaborator Cath Coffey. Having been produced in “liquid Terranova soundsystem” fashion the LP is inspired by interpersonal and interstellar travelling.
The ambient and sturdy bass-injected sounds take on a melancholic ruggedness with the help of solid vocals. The totality can be described as a ‘dirtier’, outlandish affair. With tracks appropriately named KEPLER 186F and UNDERVERSE, the amalgamation of funky tracks should be ready to rock your interstellar house.
The 12-inch vinyl will be available on Kompakt, along with CD and digital downloads on May 11th.
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
Paris Photo Los Angeles 2015
Held on May 1st – 3rd, the annual spring art fair was presented by Paramount Pictures studios in Los Angeles. The blank canvas to the many bodies of work on display, the space featured 79 leading galleries and art book dealers from 17 countries worldwide. The public program was built around international cultural events, artists, art world professionals, collectors and institutions.
Artists and curators such as Pierre Bismuth, Jonathan Griffin (editor, Frieze Magazine) and Pauline J. Yao (Curator, M+, Hong Kong) engaged audiences with dialogues both practical and philosophical about the image in contemporary society in the Sound & Vision series. Exhibitors highlighted artists taken by diverse subjects and techniques – from the cinematic close ups of Ori Gersht, presented by the gallery ART LEXÏNG to the multilayered artifice of reflection in landsapes by Zoé T. Vizcaíno by DOCUMENT ART.
Presented by J.P. Morgan, UNEDITED! – An unveiling of never-before-seen photographic material and INTRODUCING! – The Young California Photographer Award was given for the first time to the UCLA Arts MFA student CJ Heyliger. Paris Photo also displayed a selection of artworks from the JPMorgan Chase Art Collection. The pieces in SPOTLIGHT! explore themes of identity, landscape and abstraction and included contemporary artists such as Thierry Fontaine, Ori Gersht and Thomas Ruff.
Images top to bottom:
Zoé T. Vizcaíno Umbral
Arden Ellis Surdam
To read more, visit www.parisphoto.com/losangeles
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.
Finding inspiration in great music, both classic and eclectic in taste, his musical influences remains continually and visibly present in his collections. His ad campaigns have featured a plethora of rock & roll legends such as Iggy Pop, Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver, Chris Cornell and Dave Matthews among others.
The opening of the Detroit store was celebrated with the specialist aid of Alice Cooper, hosted by Chrysler.
The John Vervatos Detroit store is located on the ground floor of the former 1891 dated Schwankovsky Temple of Music.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza
For the first time in Europe, a Hard Rock Hotel has opened its doors. The five-star hotel is located on the beachfront of Ibiza, and is the island’s largest in the 5-star hotel category. With amazing line-ups, four restaurants and seven bars, there is always something to do.
To give visitors the ultimate rock star experience, the designers of the hotel have thought about every detail. The overall look might seem a bit over the top, but every corner and every room is created to give you a memorable musically-infused experience. Staying close to the essence of Hard Rock, you can find memorabilia throughout the entire hotel. You’ll see instruments and other items that were once owned by well-known musicians.
To make you feel like one of those musicians, you get to be completely in control of the music around you. When you check in, you can choose your favorite tracks that will play once enter your room. Once you get there, you can mix those tracks on a professional mixer that is ready for you to use, just like several instruments for you to jam on.
With thirteen different room categories, the Hard Rock Hotel Ibiza is an extremely diverse one. All 493 rooms are filled with nicely designed furniture to give you the most comfortable and inspiring stay. The spacious suites include all luxuries, with the best linens, led-light chromotherapy and an Xbox in every suite.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Antony Morato Celebrates Italian Tradition
As a typically Italian brand, Antony Morato has shown that it is all about culture, style and the passion for beauty. To celebrate Italian tradition and their heritage, the brand has decided to become a part of the restoration of The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, an Italian classic. This elegant masterpiece stands for what Antony Morato strands for, and continues to inspire us. The film was directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1970 and won an Academy Award in 1972.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Savage Beauty at the Victoria & Albert
When we look at the past few decades of British fashion, we can conclude quite quickly that Alexander McQueen has been one of the most innovative and creative designers. The board of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London has therefore decided to celebrate McQueen’s genius with an exhibition called “Savage Beauty”. It takes you through his life, mind and work and shows you his passions for romanticism and curiosities.
Portrait of Alexander McQueen, 1997 photographed by Marc Hom. © Marc Hom/Trunk Archive
It’s Only a Game, Spring/Summer 2005. Image: firstVIEW
The exhibition can be visited every day, until the 2nd of August of this year.
Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
We can always count on Stella McCartney to bring us effortless elegance. She understands the city woman like no other, and knows exactly how to design comfort. Her latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was filled with chunky, knitted sweaters and pajama-like ensembles.
On the other hand, Stella proves that she is anything but lazy. All garments are well tailored, especially her dresses and high waisted pants.
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Karl Lagerfeld admitted to his love for France during his latest Chanel show. Since he has been opening grocery stores and rebuilding stages for the past few years, it was time for Brasserie Gabrielle to get introduced to the rest of the world.
He is known to be the designer that keeps on evolving the oh so classical brand of Chanel, and he managed to do that once again. It is not only in the way he presents the collections, but it is hidden in details and materials too.
Lagerfeld is celebrating Chanel heritage; in the way he refers to French culture, and in every garment he creates.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Yamamoto’s Fall/winter 2015 show was as sober, sophisticated and uniform like we can always expect. Long dresses in draped velvet and wool gave the feeling of closed intimacy and anonymity.
Where other designers go back a few decades to find inspiration, it seems as if Yamamoto went back a few centuries. His looks felt more like they were beautiful costumes, only made to wear by people who could truly appreciate this art. The same goes for the less wearable spider-like constructions that he showed. Even though they are not made for wearing, they show Yamamoto’s genius as an artist rather then a fashion designer.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
If we try to predict how the streets will look for next fall, we can simply start by showing you the latest collection by Kenzo. Once again, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have created a collection that is going to be everywhere.
Perfect Kenzo prints, bright colors combined with deep, darker ones and layers of sweaters, skirts and pants. Flowing, light skirts and dressed with large, warm shearling jackets reach perfect balance. It as a highly commercial, beautiful collection, that we won’t mind seeing everywhere.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Vetements at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In between all luxury and sophistication, Vetements is a breath of fresh air. Demna Gvasalia does things a bit differently. His latest collection was presented in Le Depot, a gay club in Paris. We saw police uniform-inspired looks, oversized coats and long floral dresses combined with what seemed to be cleaning gloves.
Gvasalia mismatches subcultures and creates a new reality for city kids. Even though the collection is diverse – it contains bomber jackets to full length knitted dresses – every single piece says the same thing: “I won’t bother you if you won’t bother me.”
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Levi’s Customized and Tapered
Levi’s iconic 501 has been a wardrobe staple for generations. Altering its distinct high waist, button-down front, red tag or peg-top leg comes amiss regarding nostalgia. What Jakob Davis and Levi Strauss started some 150 years ago was the uniform of old Hollywood bad boys such as James Dean and Marlon Brando and turned 90s girls like Shannon Doherty of “90210” fame into sexy vixens. This spring, a fresh and hip take on the so-called mom jean, with different washes, shreds and funneled legs, elevates the 501 to the zeitgeist. Astonishingly, the CT embraces all the classical features of the 501, while banishing some of the pants’ less flattering downsides. Gone are the days of super tight jeans for statuesque skinny boys and girls. Pulling the pant up to the waist retains the sexy slim-leg silhouette while a classic regular fit can be achieved by pulling down the waistband a bit. Getting one a size larger achieves the über-comfy boyfriend fit. Each pair can be altered further, either with tried and tested sanding paper and scissors, or appliques, makers and all things imaginable to truly make this must-have your own.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
You can always trust Yamamoto’s edge to be dependably cutting – razor-sharp, in fact, as he severed silken hems and butchered buttoned-up blazers, rumpling scraggy shirts and waistcoats in his path. The emphasis on tailoring made a good effort to scrub-up smart, but it goes without saying that Yamamoto thrives in a state of dishevelment.
Unfailingly monochromatic, sable-black dominated the spectrum where tailoring was concerned, as tissue-thin silk sheaths were piled high to form blouson shirts and broad beaches – only in their eventual rough-cutting was their ply revealed. Knits were patched to weave dichotomous co-ords, charcoal grey ribbed wools stitched to bulky navy arans, unfinished, asymmetric and aptly bedraggled. Then there were those marbled velvets – plush and unctuous in their inky hues; strewn over untucked shirts and washout tees, the look was that of a drifter as opposed to debonair – and all the more alluring for it. After all, Yamamoto never could keep from wandering…
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
So mysterious, so dandy. Giorgio Armani, a fashion figure like no other, delivers one quality offering after another. While his secret to everlasting greatness remains unknown, one can’t be blamed for at least trying to decode Mr. Armani’s work, be it women’s or menswear. In fact, the Emporio Armani FW15 men’s collection was all about decoding, deception and espionage, minus the blood and fantastical action scenes.
An army of smouldering spies stepped out on the catwalk decked-out in playfully thought-through ensembles that would make even Bond proud. And there was so much goodness to choose from: perfect knits, elevated by asymmetrically-placed zippers, cropped cocoon coats, ribbed ultra-luxe sweats worn with mischievous bombers or pressed leather jackets, cosy fur snoods... With that in mind, it wasn’t the impeccable craftsmanship that left a lasting impression, but instead the sometimes under-appreciated versatility that permeates all of the beloved designer’s work. All in all, it’s mission accomplished.
Dsquared2 at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
For some people, two decades could seem like a lifetime. For Dean and Dan Caten, however, it’s just the beginning. In celebration of Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, the Canadian fashion mavericks presented a roller-coaster of a show, a heart-warmingly concupiscent homage to their native land and Italian roots.
Complete with buffed-up boys-next-door and a red-hot Mary J. Blige, the jubilant FW15 presentation offered a lot more than just a mere revival of the “North American lumberjack” fantasy. Though distressed low-rise jeans, fur-trimmed parkas, shearling coats and oversized plaid shirts were at the core of the collection, the Caten twins had a few more Americana-infused tricks up their sleeves.
Galant, beautifully embroidered evening suits, for instance, were juxtaposed with fringed leather jackets and minuscule vests, tan cowboy belts and studded over-the-shoulder satchels. And if that’s not enough, add a neon pink zip-up coat to the mix. Here’s to the next 20.
Moschino at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
It’s FW15 at Moschino and what’s the vision for the season? A winter rave at the top of a snow-capped mountain. He may have been Creative Director for little less than a year, but when it comes to Jeremy Scott, you quickly learn to expect nothing short of fantastical.
His blizzard club culture coins sartorial snow wear, reconfiguring the jeans pockets of bleached 401s to live on as the unlikely insulation of the ski puffa. Thrown over bare chests, cropped shearling bombers and gold patchwork padded jackets bring cool down to sub-zero.
Faux fur is party to further fraudulence at the hands of bold animal skins, garish cow and zebra prints rendering fuzzy pelts brilliantly crass. Rough buffalo checks and Davey Crockett fox tails evoke an outdoorsy masculinity, while python print leather trousers, kilts and long johns revive the 80s club kid uniform – snow boots, goggles and full fur knapsacks, meanwhile, see them suited and booted for snow.
'Elastic Heart' by Sia Starring Shia Labeouf
Few music videos bear the hallmarks of exceptional iconography these days – rarely do they execute it twice – but the rulebook goes out the window with Sia’s latest release, rendered all the more surreal for its casting of Shia LaBeouf.
An extension of the narrative behind her unforgettable Grammy-nominated promo for ‘Chandelier’ released in May last year, the video for ‘Elastic Heart’ proves an equally unforgettable sequel, again featuring platinum-haired protagonist Maddie Ziegler, this time dancing alongside LaBeouf. Under the confines of a giant iron cage set in a steely vacant warehouse, Ziegler and LaBeouf present a poignant performance, the same iconic nude leotards ravaged by dirt, carving the contour of second round of awe-inspiring choreography, crafted under the artful eye of film-maker Daniel Askill. To brand the film a mere music video would be an injustice; here we have the second of two extraordinary works of art.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
Alles Maskerade at Museum Villa Rot
'Alles Maskerade', a collective exhibit presented by the Museum Villa Rot (Burgrieden, Germany), explores the concepts of masquerade and carnival within the framework of contemporary art. The act of dressing up can be interpreted in many different ways, and can have just as many meanings. But how do masquerades hold up to their cultural value in the postmodern media age? And what impact do they have on contemporary art?
The showcase is part of a larger exhibition project, created in collaboration with the MEWO Kunsthalle and curated by Stefanie Dathe (Museum Villa Rot) and Axel Lapp (MEWO Kunsthalle).
The exhibit will feature the works of the following artists: Axel Hoedt, Phyllis Galembo, Kristof Georgen, Fergus Greer, Imme van der Haak, Thomas Hörl, Klaus Pichler, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Jacqui Stockdale, Jean Tinguely, Urban Camouflage and Miguel Walch.
Alles Maskerade: 16 November, 2014 – 22 February, 2015. Burgrieden, Germany.
All images via Axel Hoedt's www.exhibitionviews.co.uk
CHANEL Pre-Fall 2015
'Reincarnation', the short film starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams, was a prelude to the Paris-Salzburg 'Métiers d'art' show. Capturing the Austrian city's musical past (Salzburg was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and served as the backdrop for 'The Sound of Music'), as well as its Baroque heritage, the collection, presented in Salzburg on 2 November, was brimming with historical references.
Variations of the CHANEL jacket (single-breasted, buttonless, cape-like, bolero, embroidered – you name it) were, rather understandably, the collection's focal point. It was here, in Salzburg, where the idea for the quintessential jacket was born thanks to Gabrielle Chanel's encounter with an impressively dressed lift operator at the city's Mittersill Hotel.
Baroque references were especially evident in the rich detailing – shimmering appliqués, gilded hooks and buttons, extravagant neck pieces and ruffled collars and sleeves. Adhering to the Alpine theme, models kept warm in tube socks or wooly tights, cosy jumpers and earmuffs.
Prada Opens New Menswear Store in Frankfurt
Prada has opened a new store in Frankfurt, dedicated to the brand's men's collections. Spread over two floors, the 1000 square metre space, located on the central Goetheplatz, was designed by architect and frequent collaborator Roberto Baciocchi and houses menswear, accessories, footwear and leather goods; it also accommodates 'Made-to-Order' and 'Made-to-Measure' services.
The Frankfurt location is defined by Saint Laurent marble floorboards, blood orange walls and a marble staircase. Masculine furniture and strong design accents elevate the refined interior.
MARC O'POLO DENIM Campaign Fall/Winter 2016
The latest MARC O’POLO DENIM campaign presents a new and young generation, boosting with confidence, creativity and translates the brands’ DENIM collection in their own way. Bruce Weber’s pupil Sean Thomas knew how to accurately illustrate this generation, while stylist Ursina Gysi created the modern looks. Following on from the last campaign, shown at the heart of the images is the metropolitan climate of Paris – unconventional, natural and multicultural.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photography duo Santiago&Mauricio worked alongside Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti and stylist Davey Sutton for the Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign, translating fashion culture and creating a dialogue in a series of honest and humoristic images. As diesel celebrates difference and diversity, cast are a group of individuals with different cultures and personalities. “We worked with director/photographer duo Santiago & Mauricio to shoot beautiful ad impactful images where the product is celebrated with a twist on the traditional advertising images“, reveals Formnichetti.
"Watching Water" John Elliott SS17
A mirrored pool as runway, DJ Lee Bannon playing the soundtrack in collaboration with Boiler Room. At the SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ, John Elliott presents Spring Summer 2017 Watching Water, styled by Eugene Tong. Elliott says he has matured as a designer and so have his curiosities, one of them being understanding the idea of luxury. “One element of curiosity that was left untouched is the idea of understanding luxury. As a child, when I would think of what the idea of luxury is, I would envision the obvious status symbols – vacationing on an island, laying on a beach, or cruising on a yacht. For this season I took the literal approach of what you might need when you are Watching Water, and I let this idea infect me”. The collection blends smart and street wear, tailored trousers and bomber jackets, with a vibrant colour palette of crisp whites, cobalt blues and a range of greens. As Elliott expands his repertoire, he introduces bright eyewear and includes vintage Nike Aqua Socks on the runway for selected looks.
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Show FW16
A collection inspired by Italian actress Sophia Loren, Naples and tradition, Domenico Dolce reveals. The Dolce & Gabbana collection is shown on the streets in the middle of old Naples. A white satin cincture hung across the body, Miss Eleganza sewn in gold, a hint to how Ms. Loren first started out; in a provincial beauty contest. The collection includes shapely pencils skirts, wavy hems and fitted suits, all in true Dolce & Gabbana manner. The looks are completed with flower, heart and bow embellished headgear, and induced with some humor; one of the satin soccer shirts reads Maradona 10 on the back.
Fendi Haute Fourrure Collection Fall/Winter 2016/17
Legends and Fairy Tales are the main inspiration for Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Collection, as Karl Lagerfeld reveals; “I always take inspiration from what is in the air. But this time I especially took inspiration from some illustrations of legends and fairy tales, very romantic and modern at the same time. All the looks have something poetic, but in a very contemporary dimension”. A romantic colour palette of soft pink and whites along with light materials like silk and tulle symbolize a dream. The sunset is portrayed with shades of blue and knitted organza. Black, cashmere and fur portray the dark night sky. 600 hours of expert artisan skills were involved in creating the beautifully applied flower and feather embroideries, which illustrates the Maison’s creativity and expertise.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2016
“I thought that was a modern idea to make them participate. They should be shown too”, Karl Lagerfeld says about the CHANEL Haute Couture Fall/Winter spectacle, which saw the Grand Palais transformed into an atelier. Decorated with mannequins, sewing machines, threads and toiles, the show pays tribute to the seamstresses, tailors and dressmakers who make the collections happen. The garments have a polished silhouette, with angular shoulders, three quarter length sleeves and wide-cut trousers styled with leather thigh-high boots. CHANEL’s statement tweed jackets draws focus on the waist with pockets placed on the hips. Autumnal shades are balanced out and enhanced with hints of pink, black and white. Closing the show is CHANEL’s bride, who Lagerfeld has envisions in a bustier and trousers formed from lace tulle and satin, coated with pink and white wool.