Lady Dior: As Seen By...Travels the World
Exhibitions all over the world are beyond captivating, but at some point, those who see one piece interpreted by a range of artists are actually the most fun to attend. There is something intriguing about the speculation what an artist might make of something, along with a refreshing twist given in each art piece. Dior jumped on this train of excitement by hosting their traveling exhibition “Lady Dior: As Seen By”, with its last stop to date made at the Langen Foundation in Düsseldorf. The display sees different artists, from Olympia Scarry to Katharina Sieverding, display their vision of the notorious Lady Dior bag. Glass creations stand next to wall art set in space; some artist focus on the bag handle, some melt the whole piece down. As Seen By initially kicked off in Shanghai in 2011 and has been traveling the world since. Until it moves to the next city, maybe consider what your take on the famous bag would be...we'd already have a list with ideas at the ready.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2016
When Hedi Slimane let loose his Fall menswear collection about a month ago, nobody knew what he had in store. Going back, we remember glittering cowboy vibes, 70s rockstar inspirations, tight pants and booties, presented in a gloomy setting at Los Angeles' Palladium. Back then, Slimane not only showcased menswear looks, but also “Part 1” of his womenswear collection, which featured similar vibes to the men's designs. Fast forward to now, again, nobody knew what the designer had in store for the womenswear sequel. Revealed on Monday during Paris Fashion Week, the Fall/Winter designs distance themselves from the rocking hobo-vibes of L.A. and transfer the mood to the glittering scene of the 1980s. In an old-fashioned Parisian residence, Slimane presented glam-bam designs that overdo everything just as great as the 80s did. Shoulders are oversized to enormous measures, silhouettes are distorted by big bows creating asymmetry and an overall is reborn in an top-to-bottom sequin look. Additionally: an 80s woman was no catch without a belt, so Slimane adds the big-buckled waist slimmer to his range and matches it with pointy heels. Fashionistas and historians may discover references to the grand Mr. Saint Laurent himself, but it's Slimane's own demand for surprise that puts a frame on this collection. Maybe, next time, the 90s will be the centre of his inspiration. Until then, we'll dance the night away in these bedazzling designs. Are you ready?
LOEWE Fall/Winter 2016
Just like in their latest advertising campaign, earthy colors and monochrome looks dominated the LOEWE runway at their Fall/Winter 2016 presentation. The inexplicable, elusive mind that is Creative Director Jonathan Anderson always seems so put together a distinctive and strict aesthetic in which every garment is utterly different from the other, but in which everything blends perfectly like grains in the sand. At Paris Fashion Week, the Spanish label thus unveiled a collection of various flowing silhouettes, with dresses and skirts being the most prominent pieces. Paired with either asymmetric or body-tight tops and contrastingly oversized coats, they brought to life a modern look that speaks to women from Barcelona to Beijing equally. The cool, sophisticated combinations are interrupted by this season's go-to accessory: purses disguised as cat and mask-faces dangle around the models' neck, giving a funny twist on the tourist-style money bag usually very wisely banned from fashion. LOEWE though quite literally let the cat out of the bag, and the result will have the fans purr in pure bliss.
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Prada Women F/W 2016
On February 25th in Milan, Prada's F/W 2016 womenswear collection had you reminisce immediately. Contrary to other collections, though, one does not think back to past decades or centuries, but just to one month ago, when Prada presented its menswear collection. It seems the leading theme this season that the menswear collections were somewhat a preparation to the womenswear designs. Or, for want of a better word, the womenswear designs are their continuation. However you'd like to put it, Prada's latest designs pick up elements from menswear, such as the unmistakable sailor hats and eclectic pattern mix. Especially the latter is striking, for the list to enumerate all patterns used by Prada would be far too long. Another key element to this collection is the waist-slimming belt that completes almost every look. Recalling medieval designs and lacing, the accessory enforces a hourglass silhouette, a contrast to the mainly loose silhouettes displayed by Miuccia Prada's colleagues this season. It is as if the laced design unites all 52 looks, whether they in themselves recall nautical elements, tribal art or graphic prints (yes, all in one collection). We wouldn't know how to describe it except for “very Prada”. Take a look at the collection, and you'll surely understand. Grazie, Miuccia.
Photos: Monica Feudi.
Emporio Armani F/W 16
Emporio Armani’s latest Fall/Winter collection consists of one thing: consistency. In days where coherent collections are long gone, Giorgio Armani presented a range that sees each item blend with the next like the graphic blocks in a tetris game. In fact, graphics such as the popular video game seem to have been an inspiration for maestro Armani. Triangles, circles, squares, featured in neon and pastel colors printed or sewed on black, remind of 90s tapestries and sticker embellishment. Armani transfers these into high-end ready-to-wear pieces that fit both the office and the dinner gala easily. For the Italian brand, it pays off working piece by piece, square by square, stripe by stripe. The result is next level. Whether at Tetris or at fashion, you decide.
Pictures: Yannis Vlamos.
FENDI Fall/Winter 2016
When Fendi announced that at their F/W 2016 show, two life-size furry FENDIRUMI monsters would greet viewers, little did one know that their fluffy fur would actually transfer itself onto the clothing. The FENDIRUMI are the brand’s iconic bag charms that were introduced in two new versions alongside the collection at Milan Fashion Week. As mentioned, that particular collection also didn’t hold back on fur. The fluffy material is the main player in this season’s designs and used in the making of coats, vests and even handbags. For those who don’t ride on the fuzzy train, Fendi presented exquisitely tailored garments, often tight at the waist in an overall loose silhouette and adorned with ruffles at top or bottom. Next to striped patterns and dark-on-dark looks, baby blue is sprinkled through the collection like colour splatters on a painting. Ruffled boots, bags, yes, even the furry coats were designed in the iridescent colour, making the perfect match to the pink fur coat that was presented at Gucci’s show just one day earlier. The Italian’s know how to do it, and even two life-size monsters can’t distract us from it.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
They say all good things come in threes, and with Louis Vuitton, three seems to be the lucky number. Their latest Pre-Fall collection stands on three major pillars that are core to the Maison’s designs: neo-classic, elevated sportswear and the dream adventure. Beneath these summarizing definitions lays a collection that forms a complete wardrobe playing on androgyny and the fluidity of style. With Louis Vuitton, all things are fluid, such as the video shot by campaign photographer Karim Sadli, defined by energetic motion and movements. Such fluidity is supported by the actual designs that come across as confident monochrome looks. Color is not a theme in this collection, with only few sprinkled inserts highlighting shoulders or hips. Nevertheless, Vuitton plays with contrasts in tartan dresses, sporty legwear and a block-striped coat. According to the fashion house, this collection’s interpretation depends upon the point of view and personal prism of its wearer. And that’s the best thing about fashion: your wardrobe is your adventure. Welcome to Pre-Fall.
DKNY RTW Fall 2016
What clearly stayed in mind from DKNY’s latest Fall/Winter collection were the oversized coats, made from shiny, synthetic materials and featuring a voluminous shape that seems to be very much on the rise this season. Their floor-length design, paired with evenly oversized lacing, expressed a ruling confidence that left the viewer in admiration for Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the designer duo revolutionizing the DKNY brand from the core. However, even if the oversize shape is an undeniably strong force in this collection, not everything was out of proportion. Osborne and Chow made free assembly their friend and presented cut-out shirts with varying lengths, dresses not only with fabric but shape combinations and a contrasting material mix. Contrast could also be detected in the color palette, which saw heavy dark tones confronted with sparkling red and white. While this all may trick you into a very serious state of mind, the designers proved to have not forgotten about the splash of humor every fashion collection needs: whereas in the 90ies, DKNY was known for sprawling their logo across their items, the new designs simply read “Insert Logo Here”. Confidence, charisma and humor – if this collection was a person, we’d sure like to be introduced.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2016
She’s a lady, her style is feminine. She’s a lady, her style is high-end. She’s a lady, she wears BOSS. For the latest Fall/Winter designs, BOSS’ art director Jason Wu put the spot on supreme femininity. Don’t think girlish, playful themes – Wu picks up his path with curvy lines that enhance the female silhouette and effortlessly create an immaculate look. Manufactured by dedicated craftsman hands, the collection lines up an impressive assortment of high-quality materials such as felt, satin, mesh and bouclé. It is Wu’s strength to combine these clashing fabrics into elaborate designs. He takes on that by finding surprising inspiration in modern architecture, which equips the softer designs with still precise hems and edges. The colors float upon another wave, ranging from hot pink to cinnamon tones, natural green, beiges while simultaneously covering a large scale of female tastes. It is precision with fragility that BOSS presented at New York Fashion Week, for the woman that is fierce with just a little bit of floral. She’s a lady, and she doesn’t only wear BOSS. She is boss.
Alexander Wang RTW F/W 2016
St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February: Marijuana leaves, pole dancers and chained leather are assembled in the church aisles. Coming from every angle are words like “strict”, “tender”, “girls”, “faded” and “violator”. This scenery is by far no church service, but the presentation of Alexander Wang’s latest Fall/Winter designs. Displaying garments anything but holy, the designer sent down the runway rebellious garments that set upon the popular “sloganeering”. Hats, sweatshirts, dresses and tights call out the aforementioned key words in this collection, crossing over both mens – and womenswear. Going along with that are fuzzy sweaters as much as see-through tops and dresses and more classic tweed ensembles. Still, Wang takes on a little bit of Prep with reinvented Argyle sweaters (with exposing parts, of course) and a checkered coat in menswear. Although we’re not sure what the priest would say about this, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February, the applause spoke for itself.
Wind and Rain: Woolrich S/S 2016
With their latest campaign, Woolrich is set. Set for wind, set for rain, set for almost every weather change the Spring/Summer season can hold. Shot by artistic photographer Paolo Ventura, the visuals take the models through a climate change that is displayed by fake painted panels. They pose clad in the latest Woolrich designs, showcasing both mens – and womenswear. For his now fourth collaboration with the brand, Paolo Ventura chose to narrate stories within each picture, equipping the models with accessories that are not part of the collection. At first glance, the fishing rod, helmet or binoculars may be startling, but they do inspire the viewer to enhance the pictures with stories in mind. The fashion designs meanwhile range from light quilted jackets to dark trench coats in womenswear and elegant anoraks and vests in menswear. Woolrich presents itself summery – but also weatherproof. And that, in fact, is not a wild fashion imagination. Even though the campaign might show fake climates, Woolrich takes the Spring/Summer season as few do: realistic.
Dior Homme's “Stranger In A Room” SS16
In a world where voyeurism is ever-present in many ways, Dior Homme managed to turn secret spying into something intriguing and artistically beautiful. For their new SS16 campaign “Stranger In A Room”, longtime-collaborator and photographer Willy Vanderperre followed four distinctive famous faces around – as the title suggests - a room. Viewers watch actor Alain-Fabien Delon, The xx member Oliver Sims, artist Rinus van de Velde and model Victor Nylander act as different versions of themselves while participating in seemingly everyday actions. In doing so, they are set to embody both the current spirit of the Dior Homme brand and their own charismatic and individual style. “Each young man is respected for who he is as a person and in what they do; all of them have talents you would want to possess”, photographer Vanderperre commented on the testimonial selection. He developed the narrative for Stranger In A Room with Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. The title was chosen from the eponymous song by Oliver Sims’ The xx bandmate Jamie xx. And as the song, the short movie has something magnetic to it. Whether it is the gripping, charismatic actors or the delicate cinematography – that kind of voyeurism we'd like to indulge in even more.
KENZO's Captivating Snowbird
A lady, hopping from door to door, offering cake, eating with the old and lonely. You may think of scouts or desperate housewives, but you couldn't be more wrong. The lady actually knocking on every door in reach is the protagonist of KENZO's new SS16 movie “Snowbird”. Written and shot by director Sean Baker, the movie follows a (then) young woman on her way through a desert only populated by free-minded individuals living in trailers. As she eats a piece of the cake she baked with each of them, the young woman's story seems to unfold, only to switch to an unexpected ending. (Sounds teasing? Watch above.) While watching the 12-minute video, one almost is oblivious to the fact that this is a fashion campaign and probably surprised that it was shot entirely on iPhone. Additionally, the protagonist is nt played by a model, but Australian actress Abbey Lee. In Slab City, the rural oasis the movie was filmed in, she is joined by real inhabitants and actors who have been known for their myriad indelible endeavors in the film industry. The clothes may even be in the second row in this artistic film piece, but we sure still ask us how to get that girl knock on our door.
Givenchy Men's F/W 16 & Couture S/S 16
At the latest Givenchy presentation, viewers found themselves caught somewhere between a game of Tetris and the inside of a gum bubble. In Paris, the French fashion house chose to reveal both their menswear designs for F/W 16 and the couture designs for SS 16 in one captivating show. Ricardo Tisci's theme for this collection apparently was freedom, which he chose to express in a variety of designs that weren't at all as monochrome as the seating. For the menswear, Tisci alternated between sharp silhouettes with classic outerwear and more layered, colorful designs. Cobra-flagged knitwear was seen next to tribal inspirations and fringed coats; embellished collars on jackets and coats went along with college sweaters and pinstripe combinations. The couture marked a welcome contrast to all that. Sheer dresses had their parts as much as expressive dotted designs. Lace and other thin materials gave the collection a soft touch, whereas tight bandeaus in a wrapped style suggested a confident couture look. For his latest presentation, Ricardo Tisci's bubble might have been pink as gum, but we sure do enjoy it in there.
Sandro F/W 16
For a fashion designer, a collection can be like a play. Different actors, different looks, different parts of the play – in other words, acts. French fashion label Sandro took this as a chance to divide their latest collection, their play, if you will, into such different acts. The first one throws it way back to 1980s Berlin, where anarchical urban structures drained romance through the industrializing reality. This message translated into fabric calls for a denim jacket pattern realized with suede, combined with yellow rollneck jumpers. Act two introduces a series of silk shirts, emblazoned with a chain print, to be worn with tapered trousers that are cut off at the ankle and feature a generous hem. A theatrical play would maybe suggest a break by now, but Sandro dives right into the final act: suits with wider collars break on boots and are complemented with black-and-wide check motifs on mohair knits. As the curtain falls, the label presents the last look formed by leather trousers and long cashmere coats in a variety of colors. Applause!
Giorgio Armani Privé Couture SS16
Giorgio Armani is defying gravity. With his latest couture collection for Armani Privé, the designer mounted on a cloud of silk and organza and casually flew away. Ruffles define the new designs along with flowing silhouettes, corresponding to the illusion of constant movement. They suggest waves, like the sea stirred by the wind, an expression that is even found in the fashion show’s hairstyles. While the first part of the collection transfers these ideas into business-like ensembles, the finale is formed by a collection of ball gowns that illustrate the idea of a contemporary, high-class princess. Key colors in this collection are a variety of lilacs, supporting a young and soft attitude. Seems like Armani’s cloud is a pretty nice place. And whatever it takes, we will get on there, too.
ODEUR F/W 16/17
ODEUR’s designers Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger once again showcased a dramatic yet relaxed collection. Exactly just how they pull it off is their trade secret, but for FW 16/17 they have once again struck proverbial gold in black and white. Hints of Yves Klein blue and boxy black an white patterns livened up the epic battle of night and day, good vs. evil. ODEUR’s pieces are inherently Nordic cool; each one ready for an impromptu street style photograph without trying to hard. Crisp, layered shirts paired with cropped bottoms and oversized sweaters sound overwhelming. Here they just work. Men in tunics and dresses? Sounds costume-y, but oh boy does it work. The sporty unisex designs live off of their restraint, and work on both the male and female form, never overpowering the model or being vulgar. For FW16/17 ODEUR once again managed to add to the timeless cool kid uniform.
Philomena Zanetti F/W 16/17
There are a lot of places to escape our busy everyday life. Sunny beaches or abandoned southern islands, for example. Julia Seifert, lead designer of Philomena Zanetti, opted for an alternative. Her latest designs, presented at Berlin Fashion Week, are inspired by the coastal landscapes of Ireland. Naturally, the collection thus fuses shades of grey, green and brown. Soft silhouettes and cocoon-like cuts shield the wearer from the increasing pace of everyday life and suggest comfort by reflecting on the serenity of nature. Now, whenever booking the next weekend escape, you might consider the Green Island instead of a southern one. It could be just as comforting.
Paul Smith F/W 16/17
As a designer, Paul Smith is fond of the past. The days and decades that are long gone are an everlasting inspiration to him, and with each collection, Smith manages to transform the spirit of “back then” into a fashion statement applicable to today. For the Fall/Winter menswear collection, Smith once again embraced his past and wove it into new designs. Stripes recur in cashmere knitwear of tailored coats and find their sartorial climax in more-than-elegant lurex pinstripes. Paul Smith, though, never designs without a bit of cheekiness: Dinosaur prints reference his use of digital printing, while lip-shaped fastenings on belts and peace sign charms are a link to the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s. Fun aside, this collection's centerpiece introduces itself in multiple ways: the Epscom coat comes with sheepskin and cashmere and both single and double-breasted. Combined with often flared trousers and heeled leather boots, the “throwback” is complete. Now that we think about it, saying that Paul Smith is just fond of the past might be quite the understatement. He adores it. And we do, too.
Dorothee Schumacher FW 16/17
Schumacher’s FW 16/17 collection is clearly inspired by Stacy Perlata and his Z-Boys and Bones Brigade, the laid-back and most of all free attitude of late subculture. The label has been around for years, rooted in commercial chic and has so far been renowned for business attire. In the latest offering juxtapositions of smart and casual, freedom and roots are painstakingly obvious. For Dorothee Schumacher skater gear element mixed in with romantic florals and classic cuts appear audacious at first. However, dissonance creates interest in the most positive of ways: Bermuda shorts with suspenders paired with delicate blouses, sporty stripes on mixed mille fleur, baggy pants and glitter shirts, stern woolen coats covering romantic dresses carry the Schumacher DNA over to 2016. Folklore-esque garter belts, cutouts and transparency add a youthful layer to the designs. The cherry atop this show was certainly the music by the late David Bowie that set the mood for the show.
Larusmiani F/W 16/17
“The secret of a real man’s style lies in knowing the rules as well as breaking them”. Larusmiani thinks back to founder Gugliemo Miani’s wise words as inspiration for their F/W 16/17 collection. In fact, it is not only inspiration, but key essence to the new Italian designs. Handmade suits are made from fine fabrics such as wool, cashmere and silk – with the twist of occasional blends. Impeccable shirts with embroidered initials are available in cotton flannel and cashmere or printed silk as recognition of the modern and the traditional. Ties with geometric patterns only take a few seconds to be chosen by their wearer. Shoes emphasize the mantra of knowing the rules as well as breaking them: the beaver fur-lined sneaker stands next to the Larusmiani Oxford shoe. Altogether, the collection composes a relaxed Dandy attitude for the Larusmiani man. And to him, we’d sure like to be introduced.
Costume National Homme Fall Collection
The world is under pressure. The fashion world is under pressure. At least according to Ennio Capasa. The lead designer of Costume National took the occurring dangers and threats of our world as an inspiration for his new Fall collection. The result is an assemblage of combat elements, couture bits and both uniform and freedom. With these designs, Capasa also wants to rekindle his connection to music. Quite literally referring to pressure, Capasa found muses in David Bowie and Freddie Mercury and their collaborative hit “Under Pressure”. Now, what does one do to resist? Costume National delivers the perfect gear. Combat multi pocket trousers make for a well-equipped look, squared shoulder jackets and oversize coat create an invincible silhouette and fabrics from faux fur to glitter print show that “fear” is not in store for Costume National. Colors balance between tones from black and navy to shiny greens and neon turquoise. It’s only the brand name that seems unfitting in this collection. This definitely isn’t a costume. It’s an armour.
FENDI F/W Collection 2016
With their latest menswear collection, Fendi went luxurious-but-soft. Or casual-but-elegant. Playful-but-stylish. However you define it, the new collection oozes a feeling of private luxury. The silhouette is soft and comfortable, which helps the wearer glide through the urban frenzy without bumping shoulders. In general, outerwear has found a new, welcoming roominess at Fendi. Knitwear makes us feel like home, with long and loose jumpers keeping warm and droopy scarves draped around the neck. With Fendi, it’s not loneliness but “homeliness” that awaits us: the garments have a relaxed ease; comic strip elements add humor and character. Stolen plaid pieces add a visual rhythm when fused on knitted pieces and felted wool tailoring. Another key element is sheepskin, used in the making of bucket hats and shoppers. It might be “luxurious-but-soft” or “playful-but-stylish”, but actually, with this collection, there are no “buts” needed.
Persian Queen goes Berlin: Lala Berlin at Fashion Week
Berlin Fashion Week whizzed by in a second, but Leyla Piedayesh was there to capture the moment. With her new “Persian Queen goes Berlin” collection, the designer established the connection of live experiences with online content. At Berlin’s meCollectors room, surrounded by celebrities from the music, fashion and acting scene, Piedayesh presented a special video installation with strong visuals. Director Jonas Lindstroem filmed three characters, embodied by model Lina Berg, 12-year-old Louise Constein and Anna von Rueden. In support of the video, Piedayesh also went to search for inspiration in the realms of upcoming German music. Singer Jasper Munk supported the videos with his sounds and was present for a set of 3 acoustic songs at the event. To make the evening even more interactive, the label invented the InstaShoot, a creation to let fans from allover the world take part in the experience with the help of an exclusive mirror installation titled “Mirror Me”. According to Piedayesh, instagram has revolutionized the fashion world and is an important source of inspiration and creativity to her. 3, 2, 1, smile!
GUCCI’s Poetic Reactivation: Men’s F/W 16
Every time Alessandro Michele takes a step, the fashion world vibrates. His every move is a burst of creativity, a glittering bomb exploding with past, present and future inside. Alessandro Michele is the fashion epitome of Alice in Wonderland’s hat maker, not crazy, but creative, his work always immensely layered but unique in it’s own ways. For GUCCI, he presents one multifaceted collection after the other. With the latest GUCCI menswear designs Michele followed his own path while establishing a new interpretation of time. The collection, titled “Poetic Reactivation”, refers to our system of past and memory as incorrect. Michele wants to explore memory as an interpretative and poetic field, while destroying pieces of the past at the same time. The idea of an inexorably finished past is eradicated, but the collection still is an “assemblage” of fragments from preceding decades and centuries. It’s complex, but so is GUCCI, and so is the collection. You never have enough space to go through it. GUCCI itself describes it as an “excess of sense”. How true, we couldn’t have put it better.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture F/W 2016
Ermenigildo Zegna Couture steps up to its name at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, making a proud statement of cutting-edge couture tailoring with the leading motif of “embellishment”. Now, embellishment doesn’t primarily refer to the clothing, but to the idea behind it. For this collection, Stefano Pilati focused on the current zeitgeist of self-advertising and the need to distinguish. In other words: embellishment. He transfers this into a sophisticated, rather fearless wardrobe defined by the exhibition of patterns. Masculine motifs are fused with the lushness of the fabrics, which emphasizes once again the “couture” attitude. Nevertheless, embellishment DOES also refer to the fabrics. They are adorned with three dimensional hand embroideries, ornamental motifs and woven patchwork of jacquard patterns. The result is a collection with elegance, unregulated in its formality, embodying the classic Zegna attitude. Embellished, and established!
New DKNY Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
The new year is only two weeks old, but most of us have probably forgotten about our New Year’s resolutions already. DKNY certainly has not, as it must have been one of their resolutions to introduce the new year with their SS16 advertising campaign. Captured by Lachlan Bailey, in it Adrienne Juliger poses as the embodiment of the new DKNY woman: powerful, nuanced and complex. This year, her actions speak louder than her clothes, which let her be herself in every way, every day. Thus, the clothes are a collection of simple, minimalist designs featuring the key colors black and white. Straight cutting goes along with high-end, clean accessories and gives the DKNY woman the space to bounce through everyday life with strength. The campaign is the first to be released under the lead of new Creative Directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. Along with new designs, the brand also presents a new graphic logo, which is layered in big, bold letters over the pictures. The new year may only be two weeks old, but for DKNY, this resolution can already be crossed off the list.
Louis Vuitton & UNICEF: #MAKEAPROMISE
Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign line-up reads like the database of a Hollywood agency. For their #MAKEAPROMISE campaign, the fashion house collaborated with UNICEF to raise worldwide awareness for children in need and captured various darlings from the entertainment industry. Shot by Patrick Demarchelier at the sixth UNICEF ball in Los Angeles, the likes of Paul Bettany, Nicole Kidman, Léa Seydoux, Xavier Dolan, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Mariah Carey and many more posed with the “Pinky Promise” gesture, a symbol to assure commitment to the campaign’s goals. These include not only raising awareness to children suffering from humanitarian catastrophes but also providing actual help. The brand will collect donations through an exclusively designed product: the Silver Lockit (wristband or necklace) will have 200 Euros from its total price of 500 Euros be forwarded to UNICEF immediately. The campaign is set to be a long-lasting project and was developed by Vuitton’s employees. Having put an increasing focus on social media in their recent campaigns, LV and UNICEF once again ask users worldwide to share their #MAKEAPROMISE moment with a #pinkypromise post as a continuation of the movement started by the testimonials. Promises might be given out like free samples these days, but there’s a feeling that this one might just be the change. Agree? Show your pinky. Promise.
Paul Smith LC:M 2016 Presentation
It appears as if these days, recollection is more present than the actual reality. A good handful of designers are going back to the roots, whether it’s in time or geographically. Among these is British designer Paul Smith. After having just launched an exclusive T-Shirt collection with the late David Bowie, Smith released his F/W collection in surroundings that were reminiscent of the past. The designs were on display in a recreation of what was Smith’s first shop, opened in 1970, measuring only nine square meters and being open only two days a week. From there, even though he is essentially British, Smith created his own form of what feels like the American dream: becoming a global fashion business. Fast forward to January 2016, visitors had to cram into nine square meters again to catch a glimpse at the new designs. Colorful bags, inspired by Argentine tango and leather goods inspired by a Mayfair façade recap the designer’s roots in a tangible way. The little “shop” marked a fresh contrast to regular runway presentations and surely had not only Smith himself think of the old days. It’s a shame that it was only a recreation – as we’re sure these nine square meters would be quite successful today, too.
Louis Vuitton and Al Dente: "LV & Me"
Louis Vuitton is here to teach us the alphabet again. Only this time, it’s the Louis Vuitton alphabet. For their new jewellery collection, the fashion house teamed up with Paris creative agency Al Dente to create a campaign that explores all the letters – from A to Z, quite literally. Designed by Camille Micheli, “LV & Me” encapsulates bold silver and gold jewellery, focusing on letters to be assembled freely. An interactive digital capsule, supported by a 1970’s song by Amanda Lear, leads the campaign. As she intonates in her unique style nonchalant confessions as “G stands for getting divorced”, Lear takes the viewer through both alphabet and collection. The movie has also been duplicated in 7 videos and can be viewed below and on the Louis Vuitton website. There, jewellery fans can take on their own spelling bee as they create their personalised video featuring Lear’s explanations. Users are encouraged to share their experience across Social Media, where teasers and photos will also be spread. Getting to the final letter, Lear’s voice tells us: “Z is for the zero you will get, if you don’t learn my alphabet.” We’re on it, we are.
Valentino Takes To The Desert
Savanna. Vast landscapes. A sprinkle of trees, some wood branches scattered around. Amidst that: Valentino models. The brand broke out on a journey to the desert in their latest SS16 campaign. Shot by award-winning photographer Steve McCurry, the pictures show models pose arranged statically in the desert breeze, presenting the latest Valentino designs with the straight approach of reality. The images are set to be sincere and depict the exact moment they were taken. McCurry, who is renown for his reportages published in National Geographic, was chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for his exceptional ability to create stories through his images. With this collection, the two also want to stress the fact that fashion carries the ability to express the necessity and creation of new aesthetic and ethical perceptions.. “We strongly believe that garments have the ability to be a vehicle in affirming concepts and that fashion has the task of expressing new demands. That is why we wanted to carry the essence of this collection in the place where the idea was born.” That birthplace is Amboseli Park in Kenya, inhabited by the Masai people, who are also featured in some of the campaign’s shots.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016
This year, acting and fashion seem to go together better than ever. While Prada has appointed three young actors as their new testimonials, sister brand Miu Miu also once again enlists upcoming actresses as their new campaign faces. For the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign, international screen newcomers Millie Brady, Julia Garner, Matilda Lutz and India Salvor Menuez pose as the new Miu Miu woman. The visuals have a straightforward, uncoded message and were shot by no other than the brand's long-time creative partner Steven Meisel. The collection itself features a diversity of colors and materials. Greys and taupes intercut with maroon, gold and blue while materials like tweed, satin and leather are also used simultaneously. It is with no difficulty that one can sketch an image of this new Miu Miu woman: the risk-taker, the iconoclast, creatively intelligent with a rebellious sense of fashion. Looking to define that in one word? We'd say impeccable.
Bottega Veneta: The Art of Collaboration SS16
Bottega Veneta has taken us to quite the special exhibition space in their latest SS16 visuals. Consisting of a short film and photos, the campaign was shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in the sculpture gardens of the Kröller-Müller Museum in The Netherlands. Models Mica Arganaraz and Sven DeVries playfully wander about Jean Dubuffet’s sculpture “Jardin d’émail”, taking in the world around them. The showcased collection features colorful designs in both womens- and menswear. Shiny red tones and detailed prints define the designs for Her, while He stays casual with outdoor- and streetwear inspirations. These inspirations can also be traced in Sassen’s photography. As a photographer, the artist prefers to shoot outside. For this campaign, she focused on contrast, color and texture. As a result, the models turn into performing sculptures, creating instant art in the sculpture garden. Sassen is not the first to shoot a campaign for Bottega’s Art of Collaborations. It was instituted as a creative partnership between the brand’s Creative Director Tomas Maier and renowned artists such as Nan Goldin, Peter Lindbergh and Juergen Teller. We’ll be excited for the next one.
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Following the release of their colorful, eclectic Pre-Fall 2016 campaign, GUCCI has presented the next visuals for the upcoming year. The Spring/Summer 16 campaign takes us to an equally eclectic city: Berlin. Shot by Glen Luchford, the models pose in again amazingly vibrant clothing. The settings are picked from everyday life: clubs, stations, rooftops (maybe not that everyday life) and shopping malls. And just as in the Pre-Fall campaign, animals once again inspired GUCCI’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Why else is the new it-accessory a life-size peacock? Naturally, the collection’s designs also remind of past decades, with the 70ies once again not only hinted but very present. Alessandro Michele takes us on a pretty little voyage, not only in style, but also in mind. If only Berlin party nights really would happen every day.
Marc O'Polo Spring/Summer 2016
While now actually might be the time to think of festive dinners, gifts and winter walks, the fashion world is already one step ahead. Within these days, the new Spring/Summer campaigns are being revealed, and casual brand Marco O'Polo is the next to present their latest coup. The team has decided to continue their path of featuring well known testimonials in their cozy-and-cool garments. Follow-up to the likes of Uma Thurman and Jeff Bridges are Hollywood darlings Josh Hartnett and Dree Hemingway. The two actors pose for the womenswear line “Natural High” and menswear line “Natural Explorer” in the new SS16 campaign. The expression “natural” once again is key to the concept of Marc O'Polo. For these particular visuals, the brand has teamed up with photography icon Bruce Weber. To have naturalness even inspire the photo sessions, the campaign was shot in Weber's house in Montauk, New York. Being both a hideaway place and weekend escape, the house immediately drew in the campaign testimonials. The result are photos that capture the collection in its most pure way: casual, not complicated, sophisticated. After almost 50 years of brand history, Marc O'Polo once again lives up to its own concept: stay true to yourself, no matter what you do.
Beth Ditto & Jean Paul Gaultier Introduce Fashion Line
Courtesy of Beth Ditto/Jean Paul Gaultier
“I trust you”, Gossip singer Beth Ditto yelled at us in the song “Heavy Cross” a few years back. Now, she has put her trust into the fashion scene. The American chanteuse and French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier have teamed up for the debut of Ditto’s own plus size fashion line. The singer announced the collection on her instagram account, commenting that she was “psyched” to introduce the line with the designer collaboration. Alluding very much to an 80ies-Madonna-style, the first shirt to be released features a print of Gaultier’s iconic corset on the front and back, adorned with actual laces to tie on the backside. With this step into the fashion world, the singer follows her path as a model in runway shows for Gaultier in 2011 and Marc Jacobs this year. It’s safe to say that Beth, we trust you with this, too.
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
To find the middle way in life is always a tough choice. Think about your place of residence. What’s more to like, the country retreat or the fancy penthouse downtown? Don’t dismay, American brand Coach helps us ease the way between prairie and Park Avenue with their Pre-Fall collection 2016. Inspired by the great American landscapes, the collection dips into earthy colors and strong materials without losing the modern East cost vision of femininity. To make the collection more complex, the playful prairie-goth attitude is interrupted by sporty references to varsity and basketball – American legacy at its best. Furry boots also are a must, combined with traditional fur-lined leather jackets or cowgirl-inspired dresses. Too cold for fall? Throw on the furry, patched stole and you’re ready to go. Destination: city or countryside? You decide.
CHANEL 2016 Métiers d’Art Collection
Karl Lagerfeld united his favourite cities when he took took Paris to Rome to present the latest CHANEL Métiers d’Art Collection on Tuesday at the Cinecittà film studio No. 5. The Parisian setting oozed romance with thematic décor including nymphs, statues and café terraces, all referencing the work of the legendary Alexandre Trauner…altogether it seemed quite poignant in light of recent events though Lagerfeld’s vision for this show preceded the November attacks. Sooty eyes and unfussy Bardot bouffants added a sultry undertone to the slouchy layered looks of knits, leather and black lace – all topped off with classic CHANEL pointed courts. Magical.
All for a Good Cause
In support of the rainforest charity, Cool Earth, this winter sees Dame Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler team up with British restaurant Aqua Shard to design and create a magnificent 18-foot Christmas Tree. Decorated with beautiful festive beading that has been crafted by a women’s cooperative in the Awajún community, it will be adorned also with vibrant garlands of “tuju” and “huayruro” seeds to symbolise good fortune and abundance. Emphasizing the significance of protecting the rainforest, the sustainably sourced tree will then be covered in an ethereal cocoon of lace and stand in front of a beautiful London skyline backdrop.
Accompanying this extravagant creation, Aqua Shard will be selling limited edition, uniquely wrapped chocolate made from the cacao gathered by Peru’s Asháninka communities, an extra-special chocolate desert and an exclusive Johnnie Walker Blue Label cocktail. This is all to raise money for Cool Earth, the charity whose award-winning model is so efficient, that in working with local indigenous communities they now have more rainforest under their protection than any other NGO or government.
To purchase a Vivienne Westwood x Cool Earth chocolate bar, please visit www.aquashardblog.co.uk/viviennewestwood
Public School Pre-Fall 2016
In their international debut, Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have taken a break from NYC and flocked to Dubai, courtesy of iconic motor company Cadillac XT5, to show their Pre-Fall Collection. It seems quite fitting then that the designer’s inspiration for this line, which they are presenting in a desert’s built up city, are the disparate themes of technology versus nature. Osborne and Chow’s signature long silhouette of tunics for either gender take on a definite ethnic feeling in these surroundings, heightened by their accompanying kimono inspired jackets and reinterpretations of Japanese Shibori prints. Injecting the urban undertone that these designers have made their name on are layered loose knits and a lot of mesh.
Good Gils Gone Bad
With Steven Meisel behind the camera, Prada unveil their Resort 2016 advertising campaign. Informal portraits of Lexi Boling, Meghan Collison, Ina Jensen, Lineisy Montero, Julia Nobis and Greta Varlese show the muses in front of a minimal, industrial backdrop, accentuating their “bad girl” edge with their intense gazes and cool body language.
The clothes themselves echo post-pop art with decorative oversized earrings, printed multi-coloured bags and layered leather shifts, clingy printed sweaters and striped sleeves. High impact pieces are based on the simple T-shirt with soft silhouettes in an exploration of post-modesty and luxury…the Prada woman should expect the unexpected if planning to fall down this rabbit hole.
Woolrich Unveil Second Amsterdam Flagship Store
Designed by the renowned Japanese studio Wonderwall under Masamichi Katayama’s direction, a brand new Woolrich flagship comes to Amsterdam central. Located at the freshly renovated PC Hoofstraat, the boutique is at a prime location, surrounded by fellow international luxury fashion labels.
Extending over two floors, the ground includes an impressive Dutch-style skylight whilst the lower features an intimate lounge area. There are furnishings of Made in the USA Buffalo Check wool, images of the Pennsylvanian Woolrich Mills and items from their archives… In referencing the label’s history, this boutique is reflective of the Woolrich philosophy and a smooth blend of heritage and contemporary.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2016 Womens Collection
In the fourth season of Womenswear at the label, Glenn Martens creates an energetic, urban collection.
Graphic cuts sharply contrast lengths, from the super short to the floor grazing, whilst displaying a diverse range of shapes. Spliced garments and Martens’ continued exploration into drapery elongate silhouettes and are reflective of the architectural lines of a Gothic Church. Realized in a warm palette, fabrics are rich and accessorized with chunky metallic cuffs.
With Martens’ signature style of tailoring, he cleverly mixes masculinity with sensual femininity, ultimately creating a contemporary, innovative SS16 collection, quite unlike any other.
Bernhard Willhelm Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Undoubtedly the wackiest show of the season, Bernhard Willhelm is “celebrating randomness” with a banana themed collection. The motif is imaginatively plastered throughout the line, taking form in prints, cuts, silhouettes…Even in wired headdresses.
In a celebration of sexuality and identity the line is crafted without any regard to gender and is packed with bright tie-dye, jungle-style camouflaged prints and detailed embroidery.
Despite the initial shock factor, when you break down these looks you find they are surprisingly wearable. Deconstructed overalls, statement jackets and low crotch shorts display some clever reworking from Willhelm and prove that there is a method to his madness after all.
Moncler Gamme Rouge Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
A grassy meadow made up the runway of the heavenly romantic Moncler Gamme Rouge show. It was girlish renaissance in white lace florals, A-line skirts and cinched in waists.
Fencing sword accessories reminded of the sports undertone to the label whilst simplistic sneakers and metallic fabrics kept the collection of short silhouettes contemporary and engaging.
Giambattista Vallia has definitely kept his wits about him with this fresh, romantic look that will ultimately excite his Moncler girls.
Chanel Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Karl Lagerfeld has never been one to shy away from the theatrics. His current season for Chanel was shown in a decked out Grand Palais with the theme of an airport.
Models were jetsetters wearing aviator sunglasses, gloves and mini luggage-case purses, strolling through the airport to catch their flight.
Lagerfeld, who has clearly had enough of joggers and tracksuits in his business class surroundings, created a line of luxury, which he deems more appropriate as in-flight attire. This included leather calf-length A-line skirts worn over matching wide-leg trousers, a number of denim puffed sleeves and fabulous bejeweled bodices. This is Lagerfeld at his finest.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There was a powerful message behind Rick Owen’s Paris show yesterday. What many would simply brandish as another bizarre fashion moment actually had a deep sentiment behind it, regarding the empathy and strength of women. Models twisted into unforgiving contortions were strapped to the torsos of other models, who walked the entire runway bearing such a weight in an Owens reinterpretation of a backpack.
The pieces themselves were beautiful and undertook new looks for the label. Beautifully tailored sleeveless duster jackets were worn over leather and canvas dresses, whilst crinkled raincoats and aviator-style jackets were mixed into the more typical range of Owen’s asymmetrical lines. His choice of footwear, being gladiator sandals or black leather boots, underlined the toughness of femininity and the inspiration behind the collection.
Gucci Opens New Milan Concept Store Celebrating Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
September 21st saw the luxury fashion label open a new concept store in Milan, showcasing the debut of Alessandro Michele with his Fall/Winter 2016 collection for Gucci.
The discreet look of the store welcomes customers to relax inside, perhaps upon on a plush velvet armchair beside a vintage Oriental rug, that contrasts with the harder surrounding features made of iron or marble. In keeping with the theme of their latest eclectic collections, the store draws attention to differences in combining traditional and modern, industrial and romantic.
This new, intimately ‘Gucci” look will be adapted to suit other other stores, respective to their locations.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Presentation at MFW
After debuting in New York Fashion Week, the women’s ready-to-wear Calvin Klein Collection featured in a Milan presentation along with select men’s and women’s Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Swimwear lines.
Francisco Costa presented the contemporary collections on suspended mannequins underneath a video of her women’s Spring/Summer 2016 Calvin Klein Collection on the ceiling whilst accessories were displayed over black platforms. Kevin Carrigan presented the other lines using models posing as skaters in an abandoned pool complete with graffiti in Los Angeles, California.
There was a bit of a retro moment underlining the presentation, with the largely denim ensembles of Calvin Klein Jeans accessorized with snakeskin or suede boots and platform sandals. These vintage-inspired looks showcased denim one-pieces and A-Line skirts that in some cases appeared with a fade-effect or distressed.
Etro Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The classic romantic, Etro this season is packed with more of the label’s signature, intricate prints. Blending folk-style with Victorian-style florals in a beautiful palette, there are ruffles, lace paneling and a matching choker in any given look. Latticed boots appear amongst satin ballet pumps with embroidered paisley bags accessorizing.
With such a keen eye for the details and so much going on in any given look, Veronica Etro has created a world for us to get lost in with each, individual piece.
Costume National Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Inspired by a film noir comes the latest collection from Ennio Capasa. As expected, it entails a largely black pallet, with the incorporation of white and red.
Deconstructed blazers, ruffled skirts and cut out shoulders explore the various shapes Capasa entertains in this collection. Geometric patterns in lace and embroidery, glitter prints and even a metallic ruched dress showcase an anomaly for the designer, and an exploration into “sensuality”.
Never one to follow a trend, you cannot help but wonder whether the business of the shows of his contemporaries this past week in Milan have pushed him to venture out of his comfort zone this season.
Prada Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Vintage-inspired collections with an eccentric, Italian twist seems to have been a running trend this season at Milan. And who could do it better than Miuccia Prada I ask you. Her line is an army of skirt suits and coats brought to life in classic tweeds, checks or vivid striped leather and suede, alongside the occasional appearance of a translucent number.
Perhaps if another designer had done this you couldn’t help but get lost in repetition… But Prada knows how to play it. She showers each look with her signature style of peculiar accessories and whirls up excitement in her humble onlookers. This season, it’s a circle motif – think lace scarves, sequins and glitzy bauble earrings.
This exceptional collection is proving to be the highlight of the week at Milan and so for that, we salute you Prada. Oh, and for those incredible gold lips as well.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a scrupulous eye for the details, Alessandro Michele has created a world of intricacies with his latest Gucci collection. A continuation of his vintage-inspired vision from last season, the quirky collection contains every accessory imaginable with a plethora of floral satins and sheer chiffons.
Models donning huge rocks walk up a printed carpet reminiscent of an aristocratic interior, against a backdrop of an older Italy’s industrial landscape.
With corsages, oversized, sparkly glasses and head-to-toe printed suits, the current Gucci line is Renaissance-meets-the-seventies, and eccentricity is key.
Replay Footwear Launch Online 24h Shoe Design Competition
In collaboration with Desall, a digital startup boasting an international platform of 60,000 creatives, Replay Footwear have announced a shoe design contest to extend their current shoe line and design their “24th shoe”.
The urban, unisex shoe must reflect the Replay brand DNA and must be of an original, unique design, appropriate for 24/7 use, with a monetary prize at stake. Replay fans can follow the competition and vote online at Replays Facebook and Instagram pages. Prospective entrants must personally subscribe to the Desall platform to participate in the competition. The contest ends in November.
MCQ Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Rather than have a catwalk show this year at LFW, the label who pride themselves on supporting new creative talent have chosen to show a presentation of their current collection, through the eyes of three young emerging artists. Lea Colombo, Jack Davison and Sharna Osborne reimagined the line using character studies, detail shots and a sequence of short films.
The collection itself takes inspiration from a Post-Punk “No Wave” New York scene during the late seventies and early eighties. Refuting the mainstream sound at that time, this movement reflected strength and rebellion – perfect for MCQ Alexander McQueen.
The presentation was shown digitally on social channels and mcq.com and was set in Spitalfield’s Christ Church, the building that also provided the location for the legendary Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1996 Dante show.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Spring/Summer Collection 2016 at LFW
Florals, midi skirts and the ruched dresses we know so well, Dame Vivienne Westwood has once again taken the conservative and stamped her bold print all over it. With dramatically smudged make up and face paint, one model carries a book with her down her walk in translucent sliders. Others are in perfectly prim dresses whilst wearing a harness over the top.
With a splash of tartan and the odd carbon-footprint-awareness top, Dame Vivienne Westwood sticks to her guns and creates another classic collection for the Red Label.
Loewe's Sneak Preview of Latest Campaign
To the delight of East Londeners, last Thursday saw LOEWE reveal a preview to their upcoming campaign on a digital billboard in Shoreditch, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week, the preview confirms an ongoing collaboration between photographer Rudi Meisel and the fashion label.
One image presents Raquel Zimmerman in a Mount-Fuji style shot. With Benjamin Bruno as stylist, the image shows her in a contemporary, transparent look. Other images involve Meisel’s original self-portrait series and the brand’s popular Puzzle bag.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Canali Launch Elegant Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Photographed by Van Mossevelde + N, a dapper Richard Biedul casually poses on iconic 50s style furniture wearing the collection that oozes a casual sophistication. In front of neon lights the current Canali campaign continues with a Milanese theme from their previous collection, celebrating the city in its buzzing 1950s era when contemporary ideas merged with classic tradition.
The Fall/Winter 2015 line of menswear is packed with geometric prints and intricate patterns upon luxurious yet unique fabrics. With the made-in-Italy high quality textures that the label is internationally renowned for, sleek designs realized in a minimal palette are kept exciting with flashes of “Canali” yellow, petrol blue and ivory.
The campaign will be shown globally on outdoor advertising, print media and online.
What Do You Mean it’s Exclusive Calvin Klein?
To the avid horror of Beliebers everywhere, the latest Justin Bieber video sees him get pretty well aquainted with model Xenia Deli. The pair writhe around wearing exclusively Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein underwear, to the backing track of his new song, “What do you mean?”. By doing so, he keeps the collab flame alight with the luxury fashion label, after featuring in their racy Spring/Summer 2015 advertising campaign with supermodel Lara Stone.
Mulberry Enlist Actor Freddie Fox to Help Unveil New Men’s Collection
Known for their iconic English image, it is perhaps then not surprising that Mulberry have sought the help of English actor Freddie Fox in unveiling their latest concept, their new season exclusive Multi-Tasker Holdalls in Dazzle Camouflage. Reworking the classic military camo-print into a novel geometric design, the contemporary pattern appears on the classic Mulberry clipper as well as two new Multi-tasker styles in grey and blue.
Based on versatility and functionality, the Multi-tasker range offers a holdall and backpack whose handles are cleverly designed to flatten against the bag when not in use. This innovative feature is perfect for the modern-day, urban man who cycles to work everyday. Proving this is Freddie Fox, who in Mulberry’s new campaign walks us through a day in his life in London whilst using his Multi-Tasker Holdall, which is in Dazzle Camouflage. Also available in the collection are a range of accessories, including wallets and scarves.
Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This year’s theme for the third edition of the Prada Feltrinelli Prize, Prada’s international literary contest dedicated to emerging writers was opened in Milan this past week. The Prada Journal collections of optical frames are the embodiment of Prada’s adventurous nature and its quest to explore the world through different lenses and perspectives – a just inspiration for the world of literary wonder. Launched in 2013, the Prada Feltrinelli Prize aims to establish and nurture an independent literary research platform open to writers from all corners of the world. The winners of the award will be awarded a cash prize and their stories published as an eBook in the Prada Journal digital anthology and in the Feltrinelli Zoom catalogue. The contest closes on August 31st. Send in your short story at… www.prada.com
Gucci Unveils Surrealistic Window For Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
July 21st marked the opening of the Gucci-designed window for their new Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s FW 2015/2016 collection. His first collection and its dreamlike display will be installed in stores worldwide by the end of the month.
An admix of disco’s love for striking neon lights and Salvador Dali’s penchant for the odd and grandiose — the window features purple and turquoise LEDs, creating a distinct 3D perspective, alongside embroidered snakes and giant swallows. This nod to surrealism goes hand in hand with the eclectic collection, being both eye-catching and imaginative.
Antony Morato Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
From the beating heart of New York City arises the urbanite “Places” campaign from Antony Morato. Following the footsteps of world-travelling Italian man, this curious adventurer has arrived in the city of a thousand lights. As any traveller would know, culture is as diverse as the winding paths of the road. And a lot of roads lead to New York. As a cradle of cultural exchange, the city continues to breathe new trends, affected by the thousands of “places” it hides. The FW campaign, shot by photographer Tony Thorimbert uncovers the unexpected metropolis, leaving behind what we assume New York to be and presenting it through its vibrancy, its architecture and its urbanism.
Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin Fashion Week
From season to season the German capital proves there’s life in the old dog yet. Roughly 50 shows, an abundance of trade fairs, Microsoft’s IT COTOURE, MasterCard’s Priceless Berlin Launch, Zalando saving the Bread and Butter and opening its Fashion House, as well as the German Fashion Council’s first installment of the Berliner Mode Salon: while this is neither Paris nor Milan, Berlin has sustained international appeal as a fashion metropolis. Coincidentally the premier collection on day one was titled ‚The long march to victory’. Menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased a tone on tone, almost monochrome collection with mystically painted, muddy faces. Usually dark and gloomy with a hopeful flash of light colors towards the end, dangling starps and unusual cutouts, Daniel Blechmann’s vision assembles into a continuous look throughout – all the way down to the boots, which are the result of a fruitful collaboration with Palladium Boots. The Pampa Hi SOPOPULAR will be available from January 2016.
Maverick Marcel Ostertag sought inspiration in the ‚Desert’. His models were adorned in bright colored daily wears. Desert prints on flowing kaftans are standout pieces of the collection. Aside from many light and airy fabrics in shades of brown and yellow, Ostertag showcased delicate gowns crafted from tulle and embroidery in midnight blue and white.
Perfectly timed for Wimbledon, bright white and grass green opened Hien Le’s Spring/Summer 2016 show. Tennis attire of the 1960s and 70s was most obviously the inspiration for his collection and worked splendidly: sporty elegance and his ever so present carefree lightness shaped the season’s designs. Pants, shorts, slightly flared mini skirts; pleats, button-down dresses made from summer wool, Swiss Cotton and coated linen in unadorned, masterly cuts are all part of Le’s signature style. This time around prints were minimal and played right tot the collection’s theme – in the form of tiny crossed tennis rackets.
PERRET SCHAAD once again offered light silk pieces, flowing in the wind at every turn. A perfectly composed color scheme from light shades of green to grey and pinks made for a diversified yet harmonious coloring. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection embodies the freshness and intensity of a crisp seaside vacation, set off by urban asphalt hues. The mix of natural and artificial colors in this collection juxtaposes the existential severity and lightness PERRET SCHAAD’s classical designs are renowned for. Linens, breezy silks and sheer voile cotton counter heavier fabrics and create volume and interesting lines, much as we have come to expect from the design duo. Long, flowing pants, silk dresses and coats from crinkled linen in midnight blue, black and earth tones make another appearance at Michael Sontag’s show. The designer is another one of those veterans who sticks to his unmistakable signature with his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings – and the collection is better for it.
Malaikaraiss on the other hand strayed a little from her usual styles and envisaged surfer girls with a sleek look, soft dresses, transparent blouses and round straw hats, the very coherent, grown-up look is reminiscent of summer’s fun in the sun.
Lala Berlin’s iconic prints are delicately dispersed on chiffon dresses as well as pant suits suitable for everyday life. Wide pants with pleats folded toward the middle, cut from a jacquard fabric with hobnail patterns will also work well commercially.
White dots are embroidered onto black chiffons; pecking birds on a camisole and a dress is adorned with embroidered pineapple upon the hips in Augustin Teboul’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Both designers almost appropriate black denim jackets and pants to street wear – almost. They threaded rows of shimmery black pearls into frayed knees and shoulders - a beautiful finale for day three of Berlin Fashion Week.
Marina Hoermanseder once again showcased her impeccable craftsmanship in molded leather - this time in globe-skirts with leather blossoms tight skirts made from leather straps and cast plastic corsages, added by a number of wearable dresses, blouses and wide-legged pants made from washable silk, suede, and white cotton with eyelet embroidery. During her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy.
Dorothee Schumacher found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection in a paradisiac jungle with florals, beige safari looks, furiously mixed prints. Like many other designers this past week, Dorothee Schumacher rediscovered the shoulder and thereby put a new twist on her ever present play with femininity.
Overall this installment of Fashion Week showcased many of the style tropes associated with the renowned New Objectivity – muted colors, flowing, understated cuts – all perfectly executed by Berlin’s MVPs. However, there are interesting newbies making their mark, promising a future for Berlin’s fashion circuit.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
CHANEL Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The revived flapper girl took centre stage at CHANEL’s Haute Couture showcase. The drastically shortened bob and asymmetrical hemline were decidedly 1920’s, yet all the while contemporary. Though it wasn’t far removed from a Baz Luhrmann set, the trademark Grand Palais was decidedly CHANEL — abundant in theatrics and perhaps even more ostentatious than any Great Gatsby film set. CHANEL is after all the real deal. The Art Deco casino showcased stars gathered around casino tables, Oscar winner Julianne Moore and muse Kristen Stewart at ease in ‘Le Cercle Privé’.
However, it was Karl Lagerfeld’s bride Kendall Jenner that symbolised this seasons CHANEL Haute Couture collection – an unabashed celebration of the young it-crowd. A proper Daisy Buchanan to Karl’s Gatsby. Indeed, the showcase of the ‘high rollers’ sat in the centre of the runway was perhaps less of a subtle hint, with guests such as Lily-Rose Depp and Lily Collins bidding for a chance at a win. Alas, this is Haute Couture. And conceptualism is as much a part of the picture as the garments themselves.
However, as with his recent collections, Karl triumphs again with his garment construction. This time with the introduction of his fully 3D printed suits, pushing the classic CHANEL look into the age of fashion technology. Though the silhouettes were classic in nature, their conception were as avant-garde as his presentation.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
Miu Miu Fall 2015 Campaign
Unveiling another elevated lookbook, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns have reigned supreme in shaping high street trends. From the angular yet plush handbags to the heeled brogues – their 2015 fall campaign just might set off another rush towards vintage revival.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s images tell the story of Miu Miu’s ongoing affair with the power of opposites. Starring model Estella Boersma, the images reflect the items’ sophisticated and the innocent play with the sensual and confident, through a femininity that treads a multiplex path. This juxtaposition is reiterated in the incorporation of vintage upholstery-inspired fabrics in combination with contemporary masculinity in the form of tailored shorts suits.
Exploring the subtle and direct oppositions of form and silhouette, Miu Miu brings to the table a closet packed with desirables.
Prouvé RAW Office Edition launches during International Design Week
The collaborators G-Star RAW, Vitra and the Prouvé family are launching the second series of the Prouvé RAW furniture collaboration: the office edition.
Meeting the demands of the modern-day office, the ten-piece series refashions the designs through the use of heavy-duty fabric materials in industrial shades of green, reflecting the re-use of factory floors and workshops for creative agencies. The Office Furniture project was initiated through a variety of custom workstations, conference tables, office chairs and other pieces of furniture made to furnish G-Star’s Amsterdam offices.
Catherine Prouvé explains the collection’s contemporary renewal: “I like the fact that this edition honors my father’s original design, while complementing it with contemporary details. This follows his understanding of design, which he regarded as a dynamic process. To him design was a never-ending evolution, constantly striving to respond to changing needs.”
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
We can always count on Stella McCartney to bring us effortless elegance. She understands the city woman like no other, and knows exactly how to design comfort. Her latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was filled with chunky, knitted sweaters and pajama-like ensembles.
On the other hand, Stella proves that she is anything but lazy. All garments are well tailored, especially her dresses and high waisted pants.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Valentino’s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was just as perfect as any of the previous ones. The cuts are brilliant, the details magnificent and fabrics are by far the best they can get their hands on.
Since their takeover, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have lifted Valentino to new heights. Every show has been a spectacle in its own way, but none of them could compare to the closing looks we saw this time. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson walked on stage in the roles of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, characters from the film Zoolander that came out in 2001. They were wearing Chiuri and Piccoili’s signature suits for Valentino, and had all eyes on them.
Commercially, Chiuri and Piccoili have been brilliant from the beginning on, but this stunt just proved their never ending creativity and their feel for what people want. Or maybe even need.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Golden boy Raf Simons tags along with the others and jumps back to the sixties. Subtle but groovy prints, latex boots and garments made out of an innovative, mesh fabric gave the entire collection more sexiness then we have seen at Dior before. The looks are much more wearable then at previous collections, especially considering that these clothes will be worn in big cities.
Simons showed us that Dior can be something for everyone. For next fall, he created perfectly finished suits with cropped, wide pants. There were a few painted furs, and what we saw most were long, warm coats. If the classics weren’t good enough, you could enjoy thigh high latex boots and fluid mesh garments.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang has understood the essence of Balenciaga from the beginning on. Seeing his development with the brand is not only satisfying, but makes us want to get out of our chairs and give him a standing ovation.
The way the clothing is constructed refers to the work of Christóbal Balenciaga; showing a new way of looking at tailoring. Wang manages to embrace the shapes of the female body and work with that, rather than simply creating clothes and putting them on.
Tweed and wool dominated the show for next season, making sure that the collection is more of a classic one. Just like Christóbal himself, Wang is making garments that will last a lifetime. Or maybe even longer.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
While John Galliano himself was focusing on a different house, his right hand, Bill Gaytten, took care of the latest collection. The result definitely did not scream Galliano’s drama as before, but it definitely showed the core of the brand. Extremely elegant femininity could be found in every look, together with craftsmanship and detail. The collection told a beautiful story of subtlety and beauty, something that Gaytten has done well.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Fringes, extremely wide flared pants, stripes and large belts around the waist all referred to this specific luxury from the seventies. Oliver Rousteing showed his vision for Balmain in a way that was clear and spot on. It is that confident girl, which likes to be looked at. An intimidating woman, that doesn’t dress down.
The overall feel of the collection was very Parisian; something that Balmain has always had in its essence. Every look seems to be perfect for a night out in Paris, but only if you fit the previous description.
Akris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Albert Kriemler knows his clientele well. During his latest show for Akris, he presented a collection that consisted out of highly wearable garments, which were simple, elegant and well made. The overall collection was modest, where warm tones of white dominated most looks.
For next season, Kriemler experimented with textures on fabrics that managed to lift up the sober collection. For some of the looks, this meant that the fabrics seemed to be made out of reptile-like skin. The large use of grey and soft materials like jersey, gave the collection a feel of comfort, without being too lazy.
Marni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For next fall, Consuelo Castiglioni took a different look at femininity. The collection seemed to be inspired by the costumes of a Siberian tribe, with the long, wide skirts and dresses. Felt-like wool was embroidered with black florals and showed a modern look on ancient tradition.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Metallics and brushstrokes dominated the latest show by Giorgio Armani. The collection consisted mostly out of jackets and pants, which made overall strong impression. Straight silhouettes and subtle layering made gave the collection a somewhat minimalist feel. Just like in the Emporio Armani show we saw last week, icy blues were everywhere to be found.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Telfar Clemens is a man with an opinion. As a designer, he dares to question beauty, taste and gender. His latest collection does exactly that, and brings an effortless selection of garments that fit perfectly into an urban setting.
He combines tight, knitted tees with boxy, wide leg jeans, which make the models look like construction workers that just walked out of the fifties. By cutting out fabric around the knees and on the chest, Telfar shows a good amount of skin. Some knitted pieces are assembled in such a way, that they even seem to show as much skin as they cover. Whether you agree with Telfar’s view on fashion or not, we all can agree on the fact that he has managed to bring something new to New York.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Kenzo’s geek went intergalactic this season, all aliens and anoraks with a street sensibility.
Sonorous hues were muddied, thrust off-key to droning ochres and teals. Combat jackets were cuffed with ribbed thumbholes, while fingerless gloves slipped subversively under slim-fit boiler suits. Flight bomber jackets were pulled by plummy claret tones, topped by chubby fur collars, all the shades of a splendidly sickly rainbow.
Drawstring bags were rustled from rigid vinyl leathers, plasticky and grooved like a twist-tie sack. Marled knits were basted together with blue bootlace wools, an orderly striped patchwork, profound with a plush grain – the letters ‘UFO’ emblazoned in a ‘found’ appliqué alphabet. Devoré velvets carried sunburst hues, puddling over pilot jackets that snatched above striped woollen flares, while hairy fur coats emerged in a monstrous green. Acrid orange denims were marbled by an acidic wash, while ski suits and sweaters were scrawled in batik insignia. Dense leather skins bore a steely silver grain, capes cloaking bodies like tailored reflective blankets or trickling to the floor in the form of baggy pants. Now we’re more than ready to enter the space age.
KRISVANASSCHE at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The difficulty with skinny slim line tailoring is that is struggles to ward off the inevitable comparisons to Mod, its own merits forever eclipsed by those of its doppelganger. Kris van Assche’s, on the other hand, delivered far more than mere pastiche.
The sheen of a silver-grey suit set a simple canvas, invigorated by a peppering of a forest-green polo neck, almost futuristic in cartoonish clean-cut jersey. Fluid geometrics played out across the surface of sweaters, rounded shapes puddling in inky off-hues. Shirts, too, obeyed a strict simplicity, an unsullied ice blue dotted with a plummy silk inset, while black wool coats were accosted by a splodges of grass green satin.
Pinstripes and parkas recalled the said Mod, but were vamped up with a slick sheen, their proportions inflated; fur-lined coats were cropped and bulbous, their characteristic combat greens traded in for a cheaper and flashier pea-green model – and all the fresher for it. Cigarette pants were swapped for flares, sweeping over sturdy leather sneakers for a modern mod uniform.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
When it comes to sumptuous ornamentation, you can always trust Dries van Noten to come up trumps. FW15 may well have opened with the utilitarian, but that soon succumbed to the not-so-cheap thrill of paisley brocade and silk jacquard.
Sand combat pants puddled around the calf – their drainpipe cousins peeping beneath as a matching underlay. Navy pea coats in felted wool paraded their buttons just off-centre, necks syphoned by funnel collars and chests ruled with black grosgrain bands. Mandarin coats almost bypassed as duffels in their heavy yarns, finished off with industrial steel toggles and high-vis white stripes.
Eiderdown quilting doubled as jogging pants, cuffed curtly at the ankle and finished with an un-socked leather loafer. Kilts curtained cigarette pants – a folkish citation rendered esoteric with the addition of a button flap pocket, replete with ornate woven trim. Silk shirts bore floral prints in indigo and moss green, unbuttoned to the lower chest and left to slink off shoulders. Tees, though obeying to basic form, were beguilingly baroque, tiled in hypnotic oriental prints. Scarcely was a surface safe from a stout steeping in history – but then you could expect nothing less from a chronicler like Dries.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Maison Margiela at London Collections: Couture 2015
They let him in and they let him reign; John Galliano’s flamboyance was certainly rendered more cultured under Maison Margiela, but one thing was clear – little was going to wane that wilful grandiosity.
From the first look to the last, an artisanal feast before our eyes, tortuously elaborate – almost imperial in its sculpting of the silhouette, embroidered coats rotund at the hips like the curve of a Fabergé egg.
Evidence that all this was the product of Margiela’s surrealist atelier arrived with the threadbare tatters scuffing the knees of stockings and rough, buff, tailor-chalked toiles. But just as Margiela’s presence permeated, Galliano’s was equally palpable – gaudy faux tiger-skin tailoring and gowns emblazoned by inflated PVC portraits. Fantasy was never far from the imagination, and Galliano’s was certainly indulged. Denim hotpants at couture? Only Galliano would dare.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
BOSS Womenswear Pre-Fall 2015
They say opposites attract. Should you need any convincing, Jason Wu’s latest collection for BOSS Womenswear provides perfect proof.
Pre-Fall 2015 painted a picture of contrasts, inverting male and female sartorial codes with playful wit for an all the more considered take on androgyny.
Longstanding BOSS icons orientated the aesthetic, bolstered by a stalwart menswear motif in both outline and adornment. Windowpane and houndstooth checks are pregnant in scale, caricatured as pixelated macro prints or re-woven as tweeds, tailoring redefined by this new modern heritage. Digitized suiting fabrics arrived in the form of laser-cut chiffon, jacquard knit and fine herringbone beading, sombre in its monochrome baseline but revitalised by flashes of verdant green.
Evening dresses strike a covetable balance between tuxedo and sumptuous gown; the tuxedo softened by an extended shirt, and the gown rendered redolent by a hardy composition of geometric chiffon panels, engineered to the body.
And the role reversal extended to the accessories, with cufflinks replacing the hardware detail on handbags, belts and Chelsea boots, reconfigured under androgyny’s idiosyncratic eye. “A marriage of opposites”, as Wu so coined it. A match made in heaven, to all intents.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Diesel opens Pop Up Shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn
photo: Nicholas Ong
Lifestyle brand Diesel have opened up their first Pop Up Shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn named 101.
Formulated to exhibit Nicola Formichetti's first Diesel collection and showcase the brands new direction, the shop will adhere to Brooklyn's lively and exciting atmosphere. The 1000 square foot store partly designed by architect Mark Gage consists of men's and womenswear, accessories and children's wear as well as limited edition merchandise specifically designed for the Pop Up.
Displaying a slightly sinister, refractive and prismatic concept, the store fuses retail, media and art to offer a stimulating and unique shopping experience. Walls are mirrored enabling them to reflect digital image screens placed within the ceiling and projecting colorful facets of imagery and social media around the surroundings. The decor also comprises of orchid lined walls and vintage pornography.
Speaking on the Pop Up Formichetti states "The 101 Pop Up is a new type of store – personal, special, a project space. Brooklyn represents modern day culture and fits perfectly with Diesel DNA and where we are heading."The store opened on 15th August and will remain open until December 2014.
Hermès Zebra Pegasus
Exquisite and decorative, the Hermès Zebra Pegasus scarf collection is inspired by the fantastical myth of Pegasus and the beauty of the African zebra.
Incorporating delicate patterning with a bold color palette, the collection oozes artistic creativity and distinct prints while remaining elegant and feminine.
Designed by Central Saint Martins College of Art graduate Alice Shirley, the scarfs depict the reinvention of the legend of Pegasus and combine natural and historical influences with contemporary fashion to create something uniquely beautiful.
ODEUR at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For Berlin Fashion Week’s closing day, design duo Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger send their SS15 collection ZENITH down the runway. The designs are quintessential Scandinavian in their minimalism, yet daring and defiant in their attitude. ODEUR’s black and white creations are uniforms for informed urbanites, ready to challenge the status quo. Bold futuristic silhouettes challenge conventional fashion motif: boxy shirts over slim pants, wide pleated shorts under bomber jackets, classic blazers or boxy jackets. The SS15 collection is purist, clean and sophisticated, with a cool and relaxed attitude. The monochrome color scheme underlines the sharpness and ambivalence of ZENITH and the cosmopolitan vigilante ODEUR wants us to become next summer.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
French-German design duo Augustin Teboul is hitting all the right notes these days. And because some recognition never hurt anybody, they were presented with the international Woolmark award recently. In the wake of this success, they stepped out with their most recent collection “SHINY VOID“ during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This showcase aimed at portraying the inseparability of opposites, as could be seen in the mix of rough and fragile pieces. Overall, Augustin Teboul stuck with their tried and tested formula of relaxed, strong, mysterious predominantly black looks for SS15. Clear lines, understated volume and intriguing plays with textiles, and a sliver of silver here and there make this collection.
Galactic quantum entanglement sees two spheres connected during the presentation, represented by light patterns and reflections. The models moved about this parallel universe in a transcendent state, making this elaborate showcase more art installation than fashion show. The designs adhered to the eccentric aesthetic the label is known for, and displayed leather, fish nets sequins and delicate lace in perfect harmony. Skimpy leather shorts and long dresses with thigh slits were paired with rough leather jackets, mesh shirts and lace pants, knee length leather pencil skirts and leather bustiers, as well as floor length sheer skirts and intricate embellishments showed off the attraction of opposites.
Michalsky at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Michalsky
Always one to entertain, Michael Michalsky went all out for his SS15 show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Musical acts included newcomer band Ballet-School and Brit star Rita Ora, as well as Berlin-based avant-garde artist and designer Esther Perbandt, who did not only take to the mic, but got to show some of her own collection too. This closing event was not just fun and games though, as Michalsky's inspiration this time stemmed from the NSA scandal and the continuing growth of big brother. Mesh, camouflage, sheerness and innocent white are the shades to bring said inspiration to life in this collection, aptly titled "Important Secrets“. The womenswear collection is particularly intriguing with it's mix of feminine prints, metallic accents and military style headgarb. Michalsky turned his unsettling inspiration into a luxe spin on 1984, seeing us as glam versions of Julia next summer.
Marcel Ostertag at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
The motto “Modern Bohemian Rhapsody“ set the tone for Marcel Ostertag’s SS15 show during Berlin Fashion Week. The collection aimed at celebrating versatility first and foremost by employing Ostertag’s characteristic design elements such as material mixes. Chiffon, cotton and high-tech fabrics marry to create intricate design details. Overall, floor length gowns and étoile dresses are spiced up with neon prints. Almost understated sweaters do pop afterall in shades of neon green an orange. Ostertag puts the boho in his rhapsody by adding fringe to skirts and coats – an all time classic. Towards the end of his showcase Ostertag calmed the runway down by sending out slightly quieter styles in black and brown, see-through shirts and the classic trench, proving himself to be a jack of all trades that never seizes to amaze.
MALAIKARAISS at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Womenswear label MALAIKARAISS wants us to stay “Wild at Heart” for SS15, and even dares to stray from its comfort zone to convince us. Amazing attention to detail and textiles went into this presentation that caters to the quintessential MALAIKARAISS girl: a contemporary hybrid of Annie Hall and Klimt’s Portrait of a Lady. The 2014 Start your Fashion Business finalist mixed playful and straight-forward styles, androgyny and art-deco to showcase a collection for the modern women: tough yet sensual. Soft shades of white, mint and nude clash with vibrant orange and red on a semi-transparent canvas, so that each look shows off just enough skin without being tacky. The quirky Berlin-based designer also incorporated three print trends into her SS15 collection: blink-and-you’ll-miss-them stripes, large dots and toucans. All this came together in a youthful and cheeky collection, that hollers “FUN, FUN, FUN!”
Franziska Michael at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Oversized shoulder fits, ankle grazing coats and belly tops for women and men alike make an out-of-this-world statement combined with trainers and sport socks at the Franziska Michael Spring/Summer 2015 show. Mesh and neopren cloth are the fabrics of coice. Long elastic leggings in a shimmering white with aquatic patterns complete most looks. Two jumpers with prints of faces in childish grimmaces and added fake blonde hair trailing down the back complete the collection’s strange touch. Black, pale pink and mint are the main colours seen in glossy leotards or wide trousers covered in perforations in the shape of dots. A pinball machine turns the runway into an arcade hall, making the models with thick-rimmed glasses and hats that could be from the 90s the cool kids from back in the day.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
by Nora Hiller
It’s an air of nostalgia for boyhood and a longing for a distant future that surrounds the IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Small backpacks and colourful collar details in the shape of tiny triangles remind of a schoolboy days, while smart suits signal sophistication. Buttoned up shirts with short sleeves contrast loose fitting T-shirts with v-necks. A drawstring at the back of jackets and sleeveless vests is used to tighten the fit at waist level. The dominant colours are black, deep green, cobalt blue as well as a soft creme and pale pink, only a bright magenta ensemble stands out.
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2014
Dark decadance and gothic elegance was exhibited at the Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2014 Haute Couture show. Ghost like makeup accompanied by a color palette of red, black and white made for a darkly luxurious collection with black leather, luscious fur and soft satin being key materials. Lines were exaggerated and textures were experimented with in a dramatic amalgamation. Exuding rock and roll elegance, theatrical dresses were created with lace and face framing collars, the result was a collection exquisitely sleek.
Trussardi Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Photographed by postmodern photographer Roe Ethridge, the Trussardi Fall/Winter 2014 campaign deconstructs traditional fashion images and explores new and creative visuals.
Featuring the Trussardi greyhound, the images use a cutout effect to creatively combine human arms and legs with images of greyhounds. The campaign focuses on chic Trussardi accessories that comprise of fine leather and excellent detailing and puts them at the forefront of the inventive campaign shots.
Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Embodying the word deconstructed, the Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2015 Menswear show presented an eclectic and inventive collection. Adhering to the theme of disassembling, Margiela provided an intriguing mix; outfits were worn without trousers, sports bomber jackets were worn over suits and tattoo inspired beaded tops were paired with colourful trousers. This motif continued with trousers composed of half jean material and half suit trouser, transparent vests and slick metallic suits.
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring both the men' s and women's collections, the Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014 campaign is the brands latest creative collaboration, this time with British photographer David Sims.
Representing a delicate strength and confidence, the womenswear collection presents a streamlined silhouette with a pale color palette. Influenced by activewear, the men's collection includes woolen, calf suede and lamb skin materials incorporated into a relaxed silhouette.
Collaborated with the modernistic work of David Sims who has influenced a generation of contemporary image makers, the campaign features stunning shots of model Edie Campbell against a plain and understated backdrop.
The campaign will be released in the August issues of selected global magazines and a video documentary depicting the photoshoot will be available to view in July at
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an experimental amalgamation, the Thom Browne Spring 2015 Menswear collection used intriguing and unique prints to create an eccentric and exploratory collection. Suits were deconstructed by using exaggerated shoulders, lines cut sharply and ankle baring trousers. Textured, action figure-esque jackets and trousers were worn with white shirts and cut out fabric flowers were emblazoned onto shirts, trousers and socks. Models sported plastic face masks and colour blocked brogues in a collection that defied rules to produce something inventive and original.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adopting a dark and storytelling aesthetic, the Raf Simons Menswear show provided an eclectic mix of bold and sophisticated fashion. Models sported wet hair as they graced the runway in mesh, denim and vivid prints. The footwear consisted of sleek slip on sandals and vividly bright sneakers. Mood board style motifs including images of Simons friends, family, a swimmer and an astronaut decorated the back of shapely jackets and depicted Simons life and successes. Silhouettes were kept clean and sharp with exaggerated shoulders on coats adding drama. Laid back layering was contrasted with bright oversize coats and vests artistically decorated with scenes of nature.
Antonio Marras at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Experimenting with prints, patterns and fabrics, the Antonio Marras Spring 2015 Menswear show combined all three of these to create a unique and exquisite collection. With a world cup and football undertone, models took to the runway sporting shirts with footballs printed onto them, shiny sports hoodies, mesh and nylon. Aside from the football, Marras incorporated a relaxed feel into his clothing; blazers were laidback and slightly oversized and trousers were cutoff to become stylish culottes. Denim was sleek and shiny and paired with leather deep blue sandals. Bold and vivid colour blocked blazers were showcased alongside geometric and bright prints to produce a loud and modern collection.
Canali at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The clashing of styles was a key approach in the Canali Spring 2015 Menswear collection. Quirky bucket hats, preppy shirts and shorts and elegant suits and loafers all combined in a unique mixture. White t - shirts, dark blazers and classic white sneakers were worn with bucket hats whilst smart, thick sweaters were tucked into slim trousers and worn with colour blocked, leather loafers. The result was an eclectic collection for the modern man.
Tru Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Being the most "playfgul, creative and fashion forward" of the Trussardi Group lines, the Tru Trusssrdi Spring Summer collection fused bright colours with eye catching and bold prints. Creating a relaxed elegance, the womenswear used vintage prints and fused casual wear with sleek lines, the result exuded "David Bowie glam". Feminine and relaxed silhouettes accompanied creative colour blocking producing a distinct look whist remaining hip and cool.The Menswear was of a similar aesthetic; loud and bold prints were paired with laid back garments and slick tailoring. Inspired by sports, the designs adopted "tongue in cheek" styling and used layering to keep outfits chic and cool. The collection presented a futuristic style yet kept to being edgy and modern.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Soft colours juxtaposed sharp lines and clean tailoring at the Jil Sander Menswear 2015 show. Bright white and soft yellow ensembles were clean cut and sophisticated whilst remaining relaxed and underemphasized. Loose fitting, relaxed suits were covered in deep navy blue and a simple yet intricate print and were worn with flat form sandals and black socks. Summery shorts and trousers with yellow stripe detailing were styled with cool, modern backpacks and laid back trousers were paired with smart blazers and shirts. The collection verged on a feminine aesthetic yet remained sharp and distinct.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Exploring shades of powder pink, deep purple, taupe and blue whilst adhering to a classic Versace aesthetic, the Spring 2015 Versace menswear show offered texture, vibrancy and shape all in an undeniably luxurious manner. Magnificently detailed shirts and trousers were intricately cut to create unique patterns and worn with lavish white leather brogues and artistically decorated and colourful leather jackets were paired with cut-out black trousers and elegant loafers. The collection exuded high end opulence and in true Versace fashion adorned numerous garments with gold embellishments and embroidery.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Casual lines and textures were worked around a black and white tree print in the Iceberg Menswear Spring 2015 collection. A sports luxe aesthetic was applied to loose fitting sweatpants, sweaters and shorts and metallic material gave a luxurious edge. Relaxed silhouettes were complimented by sleek layering whilst bucket hats and colour blocking offered something playful. The collection embodied an effortlessly thrown together yet modern and contemporary design.
Replay Laserblast L.I.F.E Campaign
Fashion brand Replay have chosen committed environmentalists in their latest campaign to advertise their new eco-friendly range.
The capsule collection entitled ‘Replay Laserblast L.I.F.E’ promotes itself as one of the most sustainable denim ranges. The collection uses eco-friendly Laserblast technology and coloured mineral pigments of natural origin to create the clothing as well as low environmental impact laser technology and a low temperature water wash to create each item.
The collection is authenticated by real life strong and world leading environmental activists starring in the campaign. Fronted by two protagonists Aleksandra Orbeck-Nilssen and Enok Groven who both share a passion for the environment and sustainable fashion, Replay have demonstrated their beliefs in environmentally friendly fashion production.
Model and actress Aleksandra Orbeck-Nilssen is the creator of Nanofasa, a wildlife conservation trust and is spokesperson for African environmental issues and Enok Groven is the founder of Fashion Against Climate Change, a newsgroup centred on environmental issues within the fashion industry.
The campaign launched on June 16th and comprises of graphic and vivid images of the protagonists clashing with authority figures and a two minute film depicting the activists fight for environmental change. The capsule collection will be available on the Replay on-line shop and in selected Replay Stores from the beginning of June.
London Collections: Men Day 2
The second day of London Collections: Men produced an exciting amalgamation of captivating street style, compelling fashion and lively parties. The relaxed yet stimulating atmosphere continued with catwalks from KTZ, Jimmy Choo, Alexander McQueen and Moschino and presentations from Kit Neale, Christopher Kane and Duchamp.
One of the first shows of the day, J.W. Anderson who is known to blend gender presented a similar aesthetic in his Spring/ Summer 2015 collection by merging male and female styles. Masculine suits were exquisitely fitted, smart brogues were given flatforms and large wrap around scarfs were worn as ties. The experimental tone of the collection was continued with suits being deconstructed and knitted crop tops styled with loose fitting suit trousers. A truly original combination, Anderson applied his signature unconventional style to a wearable and unique collection.
At the Alexander McQueen show abstract designs were displayed onto all white and all black canvases of trousers, jackets and coats. Smart yet chic patterned suits were worn with casual trainers, emulating a stylish yet easy going look. Relaxed silhouettes were seen on loose bomber jackets and culottes and patent leather was incorporated onto oversize coats and jackets. Entirely sleek without losing a unique edge, the collection was smart and creative.
Before his party hosted by i-D Magazine, Jeremey Scott’s first menswear collection for Moschino did not disappoint and embodied a fun, lively and bright vibrancy. No stranger to branding, Scott graced garments with the words ‘Moschino’ and ‘Fauxschino’. In an explosion of colour, logos and smiley faces, the Moschino collection creatively used layering and referenced hip hop through transparent netting, gold chains and dollar signs while also incorporating womenswear.
The last catwalk of the day came from Casely-Hayford who integrated the trend normcore into their smart and dapper collection. A gentlemen demeanour was reinvented with pinstripe decorated sports caps, suit blazers transforming into oversize coats with zip detailing and slogan tees worn with traditional pin stripe suit trousers. It was sharp, slick and seemingly effortless, classic menswear was skilfully revived all in a demure colour palette with shades of blue, green and gold. Day two was wrapped up nicely.
Proenza Schouler Resort 2015
Creatively articulating shapes and patterns, the Proenza Schouler Resort 2015 flawlessly embodied laidback elegance and glamorous casual wear.
Incorporating layering and contrasts between patterns and colours, the collection presented an amalgamation of bright and bold colour sleekly put together to create a sharp yet feminine ensemble.
Oversize coats and jackets diverged from the femininity by adding a strong yet stylish edge and sheer, chiffon, relaxed knee length dresses adhered to a more serene aesthetic.
Intriguing patterning was contrasted and presented in a summery yet cool colour palette of royal blue, yellow and bright white while smart tailored blazers and dresses provided a chic alternative.
The outfits were worn with mid height white heels and unique flat monochrome pointed shoes adhering to both a classy and casual look.
Fendi Resort 2015 Collection
Chic and elegant lines were decorated with sharp, colourful and detailed designs in the Fendi Resort 2015 collection.
Converse x Maison Martin Margiela
The second collaboration between Converse and French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela introduces Premium Leather Silhouettes to the Collection.
The iconic sneakers are given an over paint which loosens overtime to reveal a hidden and vivid colour ranging from Amber Glow and True Navy to Azure Blue and Biking Red. Elegant and edgy, the classic sneakers are made from soft, luxurious leather and also feature the discreet Maison Martin Margiela logo on the tongue.
Speaking on the sneaker, Maison Martin Margiela describes the collaboration as “The story of two like-minded brands continues with the evolution of the sneaker collection where personal expression is at the forefront, revealing the expression of vibrant colours shining through an incognito white coat that ages with time.” The collaboration fuses the contemporary with the classic to produce intriguing take on an archetypal shoe.
Christian Dior Resort 2015
The ‘it’ girl about town provided the motif for the Christian Dior Resort Collection 2015. With a striking amalgamation of prints, texture and colour, there wasn’t much this collection did not offer.
Bold graphic, abstract prints juxtaposed ladylike silk camis and waist pinching, knee length shapely skirts to create the perfect balance between femininity and vitality. Minidresses and tops played the part of a canvas; illustrated with dynamic brushstrokes and paired with chic black ankle boots.
The mood transported us from refined elegance to hip and modish lines with tailored, long knee length overcoats worn with nothing underneath. Raf Simons experimented with texture through scarf like silk patterned skirts and transparent deconstructed dresses with cut out patterning.
The eclectic theme was embodied through clashed floral and stipe prints and mesh cut out dresses, all in a vivid and captivating colour palette.
G-STAR RAW: MILITARY APPAREL REMIXED WITH A FUTURISTIC MOTIF
Denim specialists G – Star Raw’s latest collection inventively combines military attire with a futuristic aesthetic that of course can be worn effortlessly with all types of denim.
Camouflage patterned bomber jackets are worn with deconstructed denims and white tees that embody a hip and urban demeanor and shiny metallic bombers are worn with black angle boots that exude laid back power.
Both feminine and edgy, the womenswear provides an attractive mix of military style prints, lightweight cottons and nylons and a casual colour palette of silver, copper, and khaki. The menswear consists of khaki and camouflage bombers, pants and shorts and relaxed t –shirts and signature denim jeans.
The collection is stylish yet functional and epitomises mellow chic.
Hermès Launches Lighting Collection
Forget the phrase, “more by accident than by design” when it comes to Hermès - “more by architecture”, on the other hand, would be wholly germane. Showcasing the new Home Universe collection, at the Milan Salone del Mobile last week, Hermès joined forces with Italian architect and designer Michele De Lucchi to fashion a series of handsomely imposing structures under the similarly stately surrounds of the Palazzo Serbelloni. Hermès en Lumière presents the brand's debut lighting collection, alongside a fresh offering of luxury interior pieces.
Occupying several rooms, the installation took 10 days to build, and harmonised a plurality of aesthetics with dichotomous splendor. Light took center stage, first peppering the slatted timber panels that soared to the heights of fresco ceilings. Though they did their best, even the unctuous glow of the Palazzo's gold chandeliers couldn't quite overshadow the crisp white modernity of the Hermès LEDs. Part arboreal, part Bauhaus, branching lanterns boughed their slender sprigs over buttery taupe couches. Devised by the expert eye of French light scenographer, Yann Kersalé, contemporary craftsmanship took leverage from old sailing or carriage lamps – antiquated casts reconfigured with rechargeable batteries, granting each modular style a passport to the outdoors. Materials found their roots in nature; softly speckled twills were edged with signature supple leathers to form hardy illuminated drums of shades, suspended from a finely-craned frame.
Alongside these new additions sat renewed classics; Jean-Michel Frank's iconically poised chair, console and bench were specially recommissioned, having made their first appearance with Hermès in 1926. The limited artisan objects are restricted to around 50-100 pieces, each carefully crafted in hand-patinated bridle leather and wrought iron.
French designer Philippe Nigro also played a hand in the collection; Curiosités d’ Hermès – a discerning three-piece selection – draws upon the “cabinets of old”, revelling in indulgent daily rituals like afternoon tea or taking care of one's shoes. Such a rationale begs the use of equally exquisite materials; graphite Porosus crocodile and ebony Bosphore horsehair, or pear wood finished with ebony, renders a venerable range leaned to legacy.
Diesel Jogg Jeans Presents the A-Z of Dance
If you thought denim and dance were like oil and water – two incongruous concepts that are never to coalesce – think again, for Diesel puts an end to the notion the notion with one fell swoop: the all-wear Jogg Jeans.
A hybrid of 21st Century design, Diesel's new Jogg Jeans cherrypick the best elements of jeans and sportswear to arrive at material that sits somewhere between denim and sweat. A circular weaving technique affords 360° stretch, while the cunning exploitation of deceiving indigo dye plays the ally to the sweatpants' artful guise. Drawstring waistbands take comfort further still, all the while providing a stylistic alternative to the commonplace button. Side stitching and coin pockets, meanwhile, ensure all artifice is kept incognito. An eclectic menu of styles caters to all manner of tastes, whether skinny or slouched, ankle-skimming or bagging at the knees – bleached, black or bullet-holed. The comprehensive collection also extends to shorts, jackets and jumpsuits – ever exquisite, but made markedly more malleable.
To paint the proficiency of their most dextrous pieces yet, Diesel and i-D have taken the opportunity to teach the A-Z of Dance in the form of an exclusive video directed by Jacob Sutton. The Soul Step team of Rick Owens' notorious SS14 show, Northern Soul star Levanna McLean and Nicole 'The Pole' Williams of Rihanna's Pour It Up video are but a few of the 26 acts to feature in the film, in which an illustrious cast performs the cult dances for which they are renowned - animate and unperturbed in a wardrobe of Jogg Jeans. Thanks to Diesel, there is now no occasion for which denim is a bad fit.
G – Star Raw Presents Afrojack SS14 Capsule Collection
The eight piece collection comprises of long tees, short – sleeved hoodies and caps decorated in simple and contemporary black and white artwork and adorned with the word ‘RAW’. The DJ and denim brand provide a flawless combination as the designs are both hip and laidback and stylish yet casual. Upon releasing his new album, the platinum selling DJ will be offering a free ticket to his performance at the W hotel with the first 250 purchases and the capsule collection is now available at selected G – Star stores and stockists.
Funky denim fashion brand G – Star Raw has launched a second and even more exciting capsule collection in collaboration with DJ/ Music producer Afrojack. Emerging from Afrojack’s favourite piece; the G – star A-Crotch, the collection like the first collaboration is based around this piece which was custom made in leather for his performances. The signature A – Crotch will be available in black coated denim, white denim and leather.
Fred Perry Jamie Reid Blank Canvas
In celebration of the Jamie Reid Blank Canvas Collection, fashion label Fred Perry have enlisted a collection of creative concept videos and gif’s designed by Belgian artist Peter De Potter. The unique creations are inspired by the artwork of Jamie Reid and will be part of a collaborative installation at Dover Street Market.
The silent concept videos play with perception and merge stills with repeated moving imagery including the peace sign, angel statues and the naked male aesthetic. The videos combine the spirit of youth revolt with a peaceful calmness and pay homage to the work of Jamie Reid. The Belgian artist, famous for his use of Tumblr studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and incorporates photography with online imagery to create art inspired by the digital age.
Artist Jamie Reid’s Blank Canvas Collection consists of three printed shirts that fuse a variety of inspirations and meanings with Jamie’s own unique individuality. Based on his own artwork from 1987, the A Short Sharp Shock shirt synthesizes Reid’s trademark ransom note cut-out letters with a bronze embroidered Laurel Wreath and a Jamie Reid signature on the hem. The second shirt is inspired by Reid’s work with the Sex Pistols and symbolizes Reid’s uprising to order and the establishment with the words ‘Peace Is Tough’ printed across the chest. Time for Magic is the title of Reid’s third shirt in the collection and details a hare symbolizing peace with the words ‘Time for Magic’ embroidered along the back of the shirt.
The highly individualistic and free thinking work of Jamie Reid works flawlessly with iconic fashion brand Fred Perry to produce an exclusive and exciting collection that has an intriguing meaning. The collection will be available from 14th – 22nd March at Dover Street Market and eventually in all Fred Perry Laurel Wreath shops and online.
Moncler Gamme Rouge at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Moncler Gamme Rouge gave us an ultra-slick wardrobe to be snowed in with at their FW14 show during Paris fashion week. Woolly caps were combined with oversize coats and straight skirts worn over leggings to stylishly prepare us for the winter. It was modern, it was shiny and it was futuristic. Eye blindingly shiny silver covered oversize coats as well as sleek black croc leather and bright geometric prints to add drama to the largely polished pieces.
Jean Charles de Castelbajac at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Capturing the Parisian spirit, the Jean Charles de Castelbajac FW14 collection incorporated a largely black and white colour palette with bursts of cobalt blue and bright orange. Square patterns gave the demure cuts a funky edge and large eye covering black floppy hats gave us less is more mystery. Unique creativity was presented through whimsical face motifs applied to dresses, skirts and leather jackets and scissor, paperclip and screw sketches printed onto dress and jumpsuits. The collection excelled in demonstrating a winning combination of classic high end looks with one of a kind statement pieces.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Christian Dior FW14 experimented with texture, colour and shapes to produce a collection of tailored coats in eye catching colours and exhibited an imaginative approach to corset lacing seen down the spines of dresses and along the sides of blazers. Interjections of neon yellow, green and pink dresses accessorized with glitter details added a distinct femininity and sensationally textured dresses gave way to a sleek yet striking aesthetic.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
An oversized, loose fitted yet effortlessly sophisticated look was presented at the Hermès FW14 show. The oversized, structured coat still provides a strong focal point of an FW collection and Hermes simplified this classic piece by pairing it with nothing or a similarly coloured suit. Simplicity was a key theme projected onto all in one black leather outfits, gathered dresses and matching one colour suits until clashing pattern combinations and luxurious silk dresses and suits brought back the lavish element.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A blanket of black and white with glimpses of luxurious gold constituted the Ann Demeulemeester FW14 show. The collection, consisting of both menswear and womenswear depicted a demure yet distinct darkness that adopted a gothic theme while still adhering to a feminine aesthetic. The womenswear was heavily deconstructed through the folding and wrapping of materials to create a fearless and fiery look whilst the menswear combined clean lines with dark punk that embodied sharpness with edge.
Viktor & Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Viktor & Rolf got creative at their FW ’14 show, presenting numerous shapely cut long grey dresses, rope style cable knit patterns accessorized onto overcoats, tops and dresses and black buckled creeper style platform shoes. Shapes including faux bustiers and sheer material were inventively applied to jumpsuits and dresses. The designing duo managed to incorporate a sense of originality into a largely shades of grey colour palette and played with classic sophistication with the use of loose fitting velvet and blazers with thick cable knit sleeves, it excelled in elevating simplicity.
Day 3: Emporio Armani, Iceberg and Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Emporio Armani FW ’14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week epitomised the modern, sophisticated and effortlessly chic Flapper Girl. Wide legged black silk trousers decorated with dotted white stripes displayed alternative sleek while luscious velvet and sparkling silver embodied the fun elegance of the collection. Models sported jet- black, boyish haircuts as they showcased stylish silver, black and white suits as well as fitted turtle neck tops and 1920s inspired straight dresses.
With an emphasis on tailored coats, knitwear and uniquely printed white sweatshirts, the Iceberg FW ’14 collection used sportswear as an inspiration and contrasted bright, clear whites with even brighter neon yellows and reds. Fur and leather, buckled neck braces were worn as scarfs and leg hugging trousers were paired with metallic silver, jet black and deep purple ankle boots to create a tenacious yet feminine collection.
Shades of blue, deep red and black were present at the Versace FW ’14 show at Milan Fashion Week. Donatella stayed true to the brands lavish and ostentatious designs as models sported two – toned fitted dresses with silk detailing, rich fur coats and cut out suede knee high boots. Leather fringing and fur were combined and fitted coats were embellished with buttons, this was extravagance at its best. Unique patterning covered fur coats and strappy silk dresses embodied feminine luxe.
Day 5: Marni, John Richmond, Trussardi, Missoni and Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Marni FW ’14 show presented at array of ostentatious excitement through the use of large fur pieces, layered ruffles and colour blocked, turtle neck dresses. It seemed like anything and everything provided inspiration for the collection as interestingly patterned matching two pieces were displayed alongside exaggerated zip up jackets and oversize trousers. The show contrasted large all fur colourful pieces with clean and structured lines to create a collection that catered to all.
Bringing a new level of sophistication to the classic suit, the John Richmond FW ’14 show epitomized menswear elegance with a powerful rock ‘n’ roll edge. Blazers were detailed with wording and a multitude of prints to play on the traditional suit while a pair of tight fitting bright red leopard print jeans were combined with a lavish black fur bomber jacket to provide a modern edginess. Richmond’s use of kilts, tight leather trousers, exquisite face motifs and sleek silk lined suits fused modern culture with classic refinement.
High class chic was translated onto an array of sleek black leather, shiny metallic silver and casual blue material at the Trussardi FW ’14 show. University wear was referenced through school – badge style motifs and rich, warm sweaters contrasted with seductive leather and the use of metallic. Platform shoes were worn with ankle baring trousers and above the knee skirts were accompanied by oversize sweaters to create a laid back elegance.
The Missoni FW ’14 show saw the warm fall colours of orange, yellow and brown transcend into wintery blues, greens and greys. Finished with a Bohemian edge, the collection comprised of straight, fur – collared winter coats, colour blocking and spotty leather ankle boots. Colour was clashed on structured coats and mini dresses while strong silhouettes and the playful use of texture exemplified urban chic.
Opened by famous supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing an all-black silver studded ensemble, the Philipp Plein FW ’14 show adhered to its ‘American Dream’ theme with an array of matte-black leather, soft fur and rock ‘n’ rock studs. Cowgirl culture was referenced through leather fringing, cowboy hats and high – collared buttoned up cowboy shirts while still remaining modern. The use of bright red tartan on coats and dresses and black sparkly pieces added a high end luxe without losing the rock edge.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
At MM6 Maison Martin Margiela looks were puristic, functional and straight forward. For Fall/Winter 2014-2015 the diffusion line embodied sporty apparel, urban style and absolute perfection. Accompanied by a moving live performance of Canadian singer Sean Nicholas Savage, the show graced with bonded textiles with a paper-inspired finish, laminated denim and cotton twill. Thick rubber-grip soled over-the-knee boots added a perfect finish.
Giorgio Armani Privé Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
As the title 'Nomad' tells, the Armani Privé Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014 collection on Tuesday night is devoted to the woman who moves around the world and picks ideas from the beautiful things she sees. A mélange of ethnical influences, melts together in absolute perfection and the demand of high-quality handcraft.
Opening the show with a line of sublime garments of daily clothing in deep blue shades, Giorgio Armani tops up in the second part of the show: when crystal-embroidered gowns, plissé skirts combined with slighty masculine-tailored blazers and organza crinolines with oriental elements embraced, were the essence of Giorgio Armani's glamorous Spring/Summer 2014 evening appearance.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In just a few seasons, the house of Kenzo has renewed it's popularity with recognizable prints, colors and a few collaborations. This season Humberto Leon and Carol Lim went to a more homely place as the collection started with earthy tones as grey and brown. A lot of focus was put on tailoring and knitwear, the latter being used for big collars on coats, slim pants and chunky sweaters. Colors like pink, lime and purple were later reinforced to brighten up the collection. Funny detail was the shaggy fur, that was actually kangaroo.
Christophe Lemaire at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
During his menswear Fall/Winter 2014 collection, Christophe Lemaire explained that his collection was an evolution of his work. His roomy silhouettes sometimes were slightly blue-collar, but very nonchalant and chic. Take for instance his big, double breasted coats, robust denim and big pockets. Elsewhere in the collection, the designer looked at the Far East with mao-colars, wider shapes and a luxurious pajama-ensemble. This lookbook was photographed in the circular hall of the Maison de la Radio in Paris to enhance the timelessness and urban character of the collection.
Saint Laurent Paris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mentioning rock and roll when talking about Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent is pretty much old news. Music, in all it's forms, is more than incorporated in the designers approach towards the fashion house. The soundtrack to his most recent outing was by the band Froth from Slimane's current whereabouts in Los Angeles. Coming fall, Saint Laurent Paris boasts Teddy Boys as the iconic men of the moment. Animal-prints were used on shirts and leather jackets and the shoe of the season was an updated creeper. Big coats in fur or tweed oozed subcultural excitement as well as traditional savoir-faire. The tailoring took note of the fifties youth-culture with three-buttoned suits, drainpipe legs, houndstooth, checks and classic trenches in gabardine or leather.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Berlin-based menswear label SOPOPULAR took to the runway unveiling its fall/winter 2014/15 collection, aptly entitled ’X’. For the anniversary show designer Daniel Blechmann created 18 looks as a retrospective of seasons past and showcased his personal favorites, all adhering to the modern and severe aesthetic that has defined SOPOPULAR so far. Blechmann’s opening look is a manifest to the entire collection: a head-to-toe look in all black consisting of relaxed leather pants, a tank top as well as semi-transparent raglan long sleeve
A leather harness – exclusively designed for SOPOPULAR by designer Marina Hoermanseder – topped off the outfit. At the center of the collection are jackets and coats in manifold variations. Here, a loden cape in poignant army style deserves a commendation. When it comes to pants, SOPOPULAR updated classic cuts such as slim cigarette pants or straight-legged Marlene Dietrich style pants to fit smoothly fit the collection. The all-time favorite Dr. Martens completed each raucous look.
Kris van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
As young as the models at Kris van Assche's Fall/Winter 2014 collection looked, they surely looked ready to take on the world. Big coats made from thick wool or nylon were worn on classics like white shirts and slim pants. Extra layers consisted of round sweaters and sleeveless vests that were sometimes worn over suits to give the idea of a bullet proof vest. Aside from the protective attitude, there was also a time and a place for some fun with pop appliqués in multiple colors and short schoolboy blazers.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Dries van Noten looked extra confident today when he took his bow after the Fall/Winter 2014 mens presentation. And why wouldn't he? His past seasons have not only gathered him raving reviews but also a loyal fan base and he just delivered another stellar collection. Instead of exploiting the formula he is known for, he took his core and moved on. There was still an aloof and bohemian spirit to the clothes, but Dries infused it with decadence from the sixties and seventies and more surprisingly: neon. Tie-dyed pants and jackets, victorian blouses and furs were all energized by colors as fuchsia, green and lemon. New was the graphic patchwork on flowing parka's and biker jeans.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Valentino's head-designers Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pierpaolo Piccioli talked about their idea to bring a nonchalant and comfortable influence to their luxurious menswear. The shownotes explain: “Private becomes public and vice versa.” Which resulted in pajamas' in pinstripes or tweeds and big winter coats that feel like robes. The core of the Valentino-brand remains the tradition of Haute Couture and that even manifests itself in the menswear collections. As relaxed as some jackets and coats dance around the body, so much work goes into the inner workings of the garment, balancing it just right on the shoulder. This not only gives a feeling of craftsmanship to the wearer, but also reinforces the idea of comfort and homeliness. That also explains the rug-like materials for some coats and the luscious knits. Quirky details like an owl on the back with wings reaching over the shoulders took the collection out of the house and into the woods. And for that the Valentino-man has a decadent fishers hat.
Y/PROJECT at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glenn Martens outed his first menswear collection for Y/PROJECT and proved he no longer is a young designer; he delivers like the grown ups. The Belgian designer took over the house, where he started as an assistant, after the death of founder Yohan Serfaty. The collection started with a pair of big leather trousers and a slim jacket that was impeccably structured and slightly longer, hitting the leg just around mid-thigh. This made for a new and modern silhouette, highlighted by a sober color palette of black, grays, whites and browns. A Functional streak can be found on jackets with multiple zippers, big collars and pockets attached with small hooks, marrying decoration and practicality. Some of the best looks were seemingly simple; jeans and at shirt, but revealed Martens' ingenuousness on the back with a pull-up system forming a Y-shape on the back as a modern logo. The same system was applied to rethink the starkness of leather in a bomber-jacket. Although this was an avantgardist collection, sometimes a classic air found its way with suits almost nodding to a traditional three-piece suit.
Walter van Beirendonck at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The soundtrack to Walter van Beirendock's fall/winter presentation was Gesaffelstein, a young DJ from France known for his aggressive and loud music. This could not have fit better in a collection so militant as the latest by the Belgian designer. Although the whole presentation was very colorful, most outings came with a felt soldiers helmet which at times was adorned with an enormous Native American head dress. There were some military influences on the clothing itself but they mostly centered around the idea of cut-outs. Side-panels of belted wool coats were left open to reveal colorful prints. Somewhere in the mind of Walter van Beirendonck must have been a schoolboy, which explains the vertically striped suits and emblems on sweaters.
Calvin Klein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
After Calvin Klein has presented the upcoming Fall/Winter 2014 collection during Milan Fashion Week, there are three expressions, that bear in mind: ETERNITY,OBSESSION and ESCAPE. Named after CK fragrances, these slogans, graced numerous of oversized sweaters and underlined how wide-ranging the brand is. The military-inspired collection features baggy metallic pants, leather bombers, backpacks and jean jackets in leather, dominated by earthy warm colours.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
As an absolute highlight of second day at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014, fashion label Alexander McQueen showcased a tribute to the brands -very british- loyal high quality tailoring. Sarah Burton's choice of location and soundtrack underlined the collections dark sprit: staged in an old church and accompanied by Bauhaus's 'Bela Lugosi Dead', the collection itself was almost entirely black, sometimes paired with silver or gold accents. Sharp tailored suits, plaids and skinny trousers layered with kilts and skirts got highlighted by John Deakin's photo motive of painter Lucian Freud digitally printed on shirts and long double-breasted coats.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rock and roll was given a sleek makeover at the Saint Laurent FW14 show. Grungy tartan, leather, velvet and glitter were given a high fashion edge and 60s style mini dresses were worn underneath tailored overcoats to smarten up the dazzle. The collection comprised of just enough rock references to be exciting but used clean and structured lines to comply with a very fashionable look.
Iceberg for la Rinascente Milano
Iceberg launched a sweatshirt limited edition developed exclusively for the prestigious Milan department store 'La Rinascente'. The collection includes two models: a cotton gauzed sweatshirt with neoprene details that highlights the Mickey Mouse embroidery and a 'College' inspirated sweatshirt with the Iceberg historic logo.
The sweatshirts are now available at la Rinascente Milano, Italy.
#DIESELTRIBUTE by Nicola Formichetti
Nicola Formichetti launched his first exclusive capsule collection for the Italian denim brand Diesel under the promising title 'RE-EXAMINE THE PAST, RE-IMAGINE THE FUTURE'. To underline the fearless Diesel spirit and pay tribute to the DNA of the brand, Nicola 'examined' various legacy pieces in the headquarter factory of Breganze and customized found materials from the 35 -year archive in a new design. Each and every item in the entire collection is handmade and pushing the fashion quotient further than ever before. To keep iconography alive, the newly-appointed Artistic Director used found patches, displaying e.g. moto club images such as the eagle, all cut and laid by hand. Furthermore, red, white and green buttons praise the brands Italian heritage. The men's and women's ready-to-wear includes 45 pieces and consits of two segments, a denim capsule and a leather capsule, including jackets, shirts, vests, jeans and accessories.
Under his vision of the future, Nicola Formichetti was remaining true to the unique ways of distributing Diesel and therefore teamed up with celebrated photographer Nick Knight and his creative team, the SHOW STUDIO, to shoot an revolutionary campaign. The entirely new visual concept was shot with an iPhone, and retouched by filters of photo and video apps such as Instagram, Glitchè, PickPlayPost and Megaphoto. This unique look speakes the true vocabulary of a visionary take into social media.
The denim #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule is ready to shop online and in selected Diesel stores only, the leather #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule will follow in February 2014. Explore the outstanding online campaign at
Breaking the Ice by Yi Zhou
Italian label ICEBERG teams up with Chinese artist Yi Zhou for a very special and unique capsule collection including menswear, womenswear and acces- sories. The exquisite designs took it's inspiration from wild, scenic landscapes, hybrid animals and images of the sun, all captured on stylish T-Shirts, sweaters, shirts, hoodies and skirts. This collection symbolizes the perfect wardrobe for wanderlust and nature lovers.
A little documentary was directed by Yi Zhou to make this wonderful collection and it's spirit sensually perceivable to it's audience, later on seen at window dis- plays along ICEBERG'S prestigious shops. Yi Zhou is featured as a fictional cartoon character, which gets repeated, distorted and abstracted and has morphed herself into the strings of cotton sweaters and T-Shirts.
Breaking the Ice – ICEBERG by Yi Zhou will be available at ICEBERG stores worldwide starting December 2013.
By Rebekka Ayres
A concept conceived under the umbrella of one of Europe's wettest cities, Norwegian Rain is a label for the elements, fashioned for those who like their rainwear sartorial. The Bergen-based brand threads Japanese sensibility into function-rich outerwear, unperturbed by a market saturated by PVC raincoats and flimsy anoraks. For Norwegian Rain, performance is high, meticulously designed, and aesthetically aware, making the age-old dilemma between practicality and design wholly obsolete. Working in weatherproof membrane fabrics recycled and imported from Japan, designer T Michael and creative director Alexander Helle produce collections bespoke to the style climate of each season. Born from Norway's 'dugnad‘ tradition – a neighborly philosophy by which communities volunteer their services to achieve a common goal – it was the enterprising imagination of the brand that invited collaboration between Bergen's creatives, culminating in this finely-engineered fabrication. Materials are equally ethical, sourcing organic cotton and abstaining from solvents, while reducing CO2 emissions by 80 percent in the process.
Men‘s shapes take heed from the time-honored trench, with resourceful cuts shaking off the shackles of their fusty predecessors. Whether double or single-breasted, finishes defy their expectations. By displacing fastenings and concealing cryptic details, raincoats offer a Swiss army-knife variety of options, shape-shifting in seconds to an entirely new guise. Folds serve both high neck and open lapel, converting from spread to standing collar in a matter of moments. There is even a detachable hood to shield against the transient temper of the clouds. While silhouettes transform, color remains consistent, in a muted palette of olive green and greys. Herringbone takes black to a soft and subtle charcoal with its quiet texture, lending just enough elaboration to let the balance hang in the hands of form. Women, too, have a compass of choice, as classic belted macs unbuckle readily into swing capes. The unisex Raincho, meanwhile, marks Norwegian Rain’s most ingenious legacy to date, being at once a comfort staple and a sculptural marvel. Horn buttons punctuate the purity of its outer shell, enveloping the body with the considered vigilance of exquisite origami. Embracing the frame with downy cashmere linings, Norwegian Rain‘s scrupulously-constructed pieces give good enough reason to yearn for rainy days.norwegianrain.no
M.I.A. x Versus Versace
Artist and rapper M.I.A. has designed an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace, entitled ‘M.I.A. x Versus Versace‘. M.I.A‘s up-coming line is inspired by bootleg market stall fakes. “Versace designs have always been bootlegged, now it‘s Versace bootlegging the bootleg for the bootleggers to bootleg the bootleg“, says M.I.A about her idea. The line features 19-pieces for men and women and combines Versace‘s trademarks with the urban and original spirit.
Printed jeans, silk shirts and jersey dresses in bright and loud colours glaze with kaleidoscopic prints, graphical ornaments and versions of the famous Versace emblem. Mexican photographer Jaime Martinez shot the unique digital GIF campaign featuring images of M.I.A. and friends wearing the collection on East London markets.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace will be available online and in selected stores on 16 October 2013.
Marc Jacobs's last show for Louis Vuitton
First it was a rumor, now it is out: Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton. Being one of the most important American designers of the 21st century, Jacobs has been creative director since 16 years turning the iconic luggage brand into a new era of fashion-forward design. Jacobs leaves the brand to focus more on his own label in the future. His last appearance at Louis Vuitton was a poetic retrospective and breathtaking nostalgic performeance, awarding elements of former shows. Accompanied by dark, tragic and celebratory music the show announced the end of a grand era. As anticipated the collection embodied the extravagant, rebellious and genius essence Jacobs is loved for.
Immense peacock feather headpieces arised on the runway with black dominated garments. A clock, a carousel and fountain created a melancholic atmosphere and made this show be an elaborate highlight on last day of Paris Fashion Week.
A.F. Vandevorst at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
With the sand still in their hair and with rattling Bedouin jewelry announcing their arrival, it was clear that the A.F. Vandevorst woman for Spring 2014 was a nomad at heart. Slouchy silhouettes based around semi-transparent sarouels were anchored by dramatic collars and tailoring, while beading and metallic touches made the collection more sophisticated. This collection marked the 15th anniversary of the brand by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx and the collection featured some flashbacks, but at the same time it offered plenty of new propositions.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
On the third day of Milan Fashion Week the label Iceberg showcased a collection that reflected japanese pop culture and manga aesthetics. Young, fresh and modern were the key words, that young, talented designer Alexis Martial reached out for. He highlighted his stunning pieces by hologramms, prints and embroidered colourful patches, that showed the design of an abstract Iceberg. The collections colour base throughout was dominated by bright colours, white, mint and a light blue made of materials such as neoprene, silk muslin, rhodoïd bands and ultra sheer nylon knit fabrics, that were a product of a special textile process. Martial‘s mission to bring the house of iceberg to a new great dimension succeeded.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Giorgio Armani Womenswear collection was a haunting highlight on last day of Milan Fashion Week. The traditional Italian house of Fashion showcased a casual, yet elegant collection mainly focusing on fluid and light designs. Draped garments achieved a spirit of fantasy and romance by playfully using volume and form. Key items of this collection were transparent dresses, tunics and coats arising the runway in a colour palette of purple, lilac and pink. Layered chiffons, jacquard silks and elasticized cottons incarnated ultimate perfection and extravagance and gave a prelude to how Spring/Summer 2014 will look like.
Burberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Burberry Prorsum for Spring/ Summer 2014 season showcased a collection of warmness and fragility. Cashmere cardigans, new construed trench coats, gracile pencil skirts and tops of organza in pastel shades of lavender, rose, mint, and cornflower blue created an idea of something sexy and a little vulnerable but with something protective and safe and top. Laces with floral patterns underlined the romantic approach this collection had
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2014
Creative director Emma Hill showcased exclusive garments for the traditional english brand Muberry. To invite guests to its London Fashion Week show, Mulberry decided to send miniature teacups and saucers created by iconic English tableware and lifestyle brand Wedgwood. The miniatures were- held inside a box embossed with a traditional stately home, the guests’ first glimpse of the catwalk theme. The ‘dolls house’ teacup and saucer were based on the Wedgwood Jasperware in traditional Jasperware colours, which also beautifully reflected the seasonal tones in the Mulberry’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection.
Approaching a playful spirit, the designer managed to showcase a combination on traditional looks on one side and modernism on the other side. Speaking of British Heritage the collection included good quality fabrics such as luxury silk and leathers, all in creamy whites and monochromic colours. Culottes and wide overall’s, sleeveless dresses with flower patterns and leather skirts with simple tailored voluminous blouses on top played the key role in this extraordinary selection of pieces.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 womenswear Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, who is a former student of London’s Royal College of Art, showed off a duality of pieces in black, white and pastel colours. Diesel Black Gold’s edgy-chic look got highlighted by a range of dresses, skirts, blazers and tops with metal eyelets, zippers and buckles. Besides french braids created a girly, soft and romantic look. Appealing to a rather sophisticated and cosmopolitan clientele, Meldbostad succeed with showing numerous pieces in denim and leather, as well as assimilating silk georgettes in this collection. All in all his goal was to show “a new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness“.
Station to Station: A Public Art Project Made Possible by Levi's
This friday, artist Doug Aitken will commence his new project “Station to Station: A Nomadic Happening”, which will connect artists, musicians and creative pioneers of different disciplines. With help from Levi's, the brand that has been outfitting pioneers for more than 140 years, Station to Station will raise funds trough ticket sales and donations in order to support progressive projects in seven museums in the United States.
A train will go from New York to San Francisco during three weeks, making stops at ten different places along the way. While there, a series of happenings and interventions in the fields of art, music, cinema, literature and many more will take place. Doug Aitken designed the train that will act as a cultural studio and that will globally broadcast unique content and experiences from both the stops and the moving train.
Creatives participating in this project are among others: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Kenneth Anger, David Longstreth of Dirty Projectors, Olaf Breuning, Ariel Pink, Connan Mockasin, Peter Coffin, Urs Fischer, Meschac Gaba, Liz Glynn, Carsten Holler, Christian Jankowski, Dan Deacon, Savages, Dave Hickey, Barney Hoskyns, Rick Moody, Alice Waters, Leif Hedendal, Edible Schoolyard Project Aaron Koblin, Ernesto Neto, Jack Pierson, Stephen Shore, Rirkrit Tiravanija and Lawrence Weiner. For more information, visit www.stationtostation.com
Replay Design for Barça
‘Més que un club’: the slogan for the FC Barcelona says it all. Renowned for their flair in play, Barça are to team up with Italian company Fashion Box – the forbearer of Replay and its sister brands – to initiate a four year partnership as sponsor of clothing and footwear for the club’s sportsmen and women. Under the project, Replay will design an official clothing line, alongside a smart-casual line for the first team. Most celebrated for their innovative use of denim and characteristic indigo textile, the label will reinterpret the orthodox jeans philosophy in the fine lines of tailoring, resulting in a collection of unique and inimitable fashion pieces. More than a club? There’s no question.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century
He dressed the most beautiful women of the '80s, from Madonna to Grace Jones. Cited for his figure-fitting contours, as a designer, Azzedine Alaïa embraced the seductive shape of the female form, exuding sexuality to define an era. Now in his 3rd decade as an esteemed fixture of the fashion industry, Azzedine Alaïa continues to impart that sensual inflection that undersigns his work within his designs today, attracting such diverse clientele as Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama.
The exhibition, Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century, pulls focus on the important catalogue of work the designer has produced in the new millenium, showcasing his most significant and glamorous pieces from the last ten years. Curated by friend of 15 years Mark Wilson, the exhibition organises Alaïa's work by the his signature materials of the last decade; creations fall into fur, leather, velvet, cotton, chiffon, knitwear and animal skin rooms, illustrating the adroit hand of a mastered couturier, and, above all, that amorous appeal.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century runs until September 8th at the NRW-Forum, Düsseldorf.
Bottega Veneta Opens New Los Angeles Concept Store
Descending on the distinguished surroundings of Melrose Place, Bottega Veneta will open its doors to the most neighbourly luxury retail quater of Los Angeles with a freshly conceived concept. Its ivied façade left virtually untouched, the interior of the 2, 727 square feet store will tailor to discerning L.A tastes with sleek displays intergrated into a gallery setting, designed to strip down the artistry of each product to its bare essence. Displays will be curated to impart a selection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, gifts and home accessories succinctly, with emphasis on a tailor-made shopping experience for its clients.
Sliding steel fixtures and mesh panels will industrialize its pristine white shell, opened up by its flooding light and clean lines. The vision of Creative Director Tomas Maier, unexplored design combinations based on clarity and space set the boutique apart from its relations. Transparent resin imbeds mesh for a futuristic feel, while white frosted glass and lacquered wood enhance the sense of slenderness – a touch taken even further with the addition of its open-air courtyard.
COS to Launch Capsule Sterling Silver Jewellery Collection
With the visionary beauty of their last capsule collection still on everybody's minds, masters of minimalism COS are to launch a sterling silver jewellery collection, hitting the shelves this October. The limited edition line is to comprise of five key pieces; a ring, bangle, necklace, a stud and a hanging earring, each purified to a simple geometric shape for a clean-cut look that is typically COS.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Graciously composed in timeless black and white, the John Varvatos Fall/Winter 13 campaign stars American music legend Wilie Nelson and his sons in what makes for a beautifully fashioned family portrait.
Shot in Des Moines, Iowa by photographer Danny Clinch, Willie, Lukas and Micah – each an established musician – pose nobly before the stately architecture of Salisbury House. Embodying the strength of Varvatos' collection with his compelling presence, Willie's sense of style permiates through the images, as his own boots partner the black Hampton tuxedo and wing-collared shirt.
A short film accompanying the campaign will also premier the John Varvatos website on July 9th, in which the Nelson family perform the song Still is Still Moving to Me. Conversation cuts guitar-playing in this mini-documentary, which affords an intimate insight of music and memories – three minutes just doesn't seem long enough when watching this tender portrayal of a truly treasured musical icon.
PERRET SCHAAD Spring/Summer 2014
Off the beaten Fashion Week track, duo PERRET SCHAAD called to the Neue Nationalgalerie, one of the later works of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The upper floor and exhibition space, a 2500 m² glass hall, inspired the concept for the spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD show. While the everyday museum operations commenced, guests cued up around the building and viewed the show through the glass windows. The duo makes use of both noble and tactile materials. What really makes their designs are the precise cuts and the inventive draping which result in sharp and sensual silhouettes. Lines and patterns evoke structure and fluidity, while forms and volume draw the classic and the new. Juxtaposing feminist and romantic, disciplined and free notes express the label's aesthetic. For spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD relied on fine silks, fresh linens, and soft cottons, all natural and rich materials. Their color palette ranges from light to gunmetal gray, from sky blue to deep ink, interlaced with pops such as fuchsia. Through the process of draping and pattern cutting they create fluid and sculptural forms that interact with each other in contrast and harmony. The collection reflects the flexibility and multitude of the urban environment while being committed to an accentuated simplicity.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Sontag Spring/Summer 2014
Inside and out - the binary behind Michael Sontag's spring/summer 2014 collection. Traditional linings such as horsehair took center stage during his presentation at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Intertwined with silks, light cotton, a polyamide-mix, and denim, the materials shaped his layered looks. The collection was elaborate and conceptualized, yet wearable. Sontag layered shorts of full length pants and topped them off with more layers on top, never loosing the airy lightness of his idea. From muted creme, black and gray to canary yellow and lagoon blue, the color palette corresponded to the trends for spring/summer 2014, as seen during Berlin Fashion Week thus far. Surprising sparkle in the designs came out as they moved along the runway: Sontag added Swarovski crystals to some pleats.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Marcel Ostertag Spring/Summer 2014
The most eclectic designer showing during MBFWB is certainly Marcel Ostertag. Always one to take things a little further, the designer himself took to the runway to open his show in a long blush gown jacket. What a way to celebrate his 15th collection thus far. His 'Fragile Explosion' really went for it with vivid colors such as turquoise, green and shimmery gold as well as flower prints, sequins and combos of cotton and jersey or jersey and leather. The almost excessive use of sheer materials brought out the edgy, naughty side of the collection and balanced the more romantic floral and blush pieces. For his anniversary, Ostertag managed to put forward a collection which is cohesive and individual, having a little something of everything.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Kaviar Gauche Spring/Summer 2014
Nothing says Spring like white organza, sweeping through the air like a soothing breeze. Collared up to the neck, it still whispers of the sun and freshly cut grass. Florals make an appearance – or perhaps not – only the negative space of their cut-outs can tell. Fine blossom appliqué parades sheer T-shirt dresses, while laser-cut petals perforate shell tops and fitted skirts.
Butterfly sleeves are fitting for the occasion, spreading their wings over light mini dresses and breezy silk jumpsuits. Save the intermittent flower motifs, ornamentation is scarce and color similarly subdued, allowing pleated folds and keyholed fabrics to stand up and be heard.
Dolce&Gabbana Childrenswear Fall/Winter 2014
Sometimes the best things come in small measures. No less could be said of Dolce&Gabbana’s latest childrenswear line, which proves every bit as good as its ‘parent’ ready-to-wear collections.
For girls, fun-size florals and mosaic prints flock simple sleeved shift dresses, paired with matching jewelled headbands and flower crowns to complete this season’s scaled-down runway look.
Boys and girls alike receive a wintry dose of heritage plaids, adorning statement separates in preppy cuts, satchel in hand and ready to tuck in a crisp white shirt. Checks take shape in all sizes, from gridded black woollen coats to trousers in Royal Stewart tartan.The collection offers pieces to cater for both conservative and contemporary tastes, saving room, of course, for a satiating helping of Dolce leopard print.
Valentino Fall Couture 2013
The Wunderkammer – that was the inspiration behind Valentino's Fall Couture show; a European renaissance phenomenon to keep an encyclopaedic 'cabinet of curiosities'. And what a treasure trove it was, each piece singular in its beauty.
Emerging from the cracks of scalloped lace, fine silk prints presented watercolor motifs in strokes so gentle they looked almost antique. Staghorn coral, chiseled stone and intricately embroidered birds were all part of this enchanting museum, cased by unadorned interludes in dusty camel shades. Lantern sleeves broke from tradition, still feminine against the resplendent bracelet lines for which the label has become known.
Velvets jarred with sheer speckled mesh, while tapestry coats provided a heavy cloak to the ankles. A beautious touch of chinoiserie made herringbone seem eclectic when stood in allignment, but it was the finale gown that brought it all to life: thick roulette straps tied at the shoulders to suspend the masterfully restrained blood-velvet bodice, picked tightly to the waist before falling into its arresting flare, as if spilling with the curiosa of the Wunderkammer.
Julian Zigerli Spring/Summer 2014
Swiss-born designer Julian Zigerli took the runway on day one of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection “At the end of the world to the left” plays with mixed boundaries, layering and de-constructed elements.Through the print collaboration with the Berlin based artist Katharina Grosse, Julian developed a collection of designs that embody this abstract space. A collection for a grounded man in an unknown place, surrounded by wind-blown colors and distorted forms. Like a mirage, an oasis in the desert, Zigerli’s collection unfolds and inspires with functional details in cut and fabric. His men’s collection stands for useful, smart and technical high-class pieces with a sporty-touch. There is always a lot of love, color, humor and positivity involved in his designs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Kilian Kerner Spring/Summer 2014
The first day of MBFWB drew to a close with the spring/summer 2014 show of Kilian Kerner. “HÖR NICHT AUF MIT TRÄUMEN” – don’t stop dreaming – is Kerner’s claim for next summer which he emphasized unconventional elements. Minimalist cuts were countered by vivid prints and a wild mix of materials. Graphic print combinations as well as gleaming metallic elements found their way onto shift dresses. Bare midriff tops combined with swinging skirts or laidback pants and shiny leather waistcoats on top of dresses met slim suits with bold leather details and floor length evening dresses with glitter effects. The juxtaposition of Kerner’s refined and elegant designs and the footwear of choice – the Nike Air Max 90 – made for an exciting and current overall look.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2014
Damir Doma s/s 2014 commenced with a passage in white, like he started with a clean slate. Structured jackets with broad bands in the waist were combined with wide shorts and T-shirts with sleeves that reached the elbow with high-waisted pants. After white a bright blue came around, sometimes with appliqués of photos on it. Some jackets were made from a material that can be best described as a big exotic skin, maybe a python. There was a practical side to the collection when emphasis was put on bombers, overalls and heavy cotton cocoon coats. The three closing looks were coats and jackets in a thick jacquard material in the deepest shade of purple.
Hien Le Spring/Summer 2014
Once again, designer Hien Le’s show kicked-off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection showcased Le’s signature minimalist designs for men and women with distinct features, such as collarless styles and invisible buttons. The collection embraced the designer’s familiar pieces such as bomber jackets and impeccably tailored men’s shirts. Fabric choices ranged from airy silks to sturdy outerwear material. For spring/summer 2014, Hien Le has moved a little outside his monochrome comfort zone in experimenting with expressive prints: stylized dragonfly wing images are sprinkled throughout the collection. The color scheme for next summer ranges from off-white and beige to an almost violet light blue and bright red combined with salmon.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
KRISVANASSCHE Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kris van Assche outed a clean and graphically strong collection for his Spring/Summer 2014 collection in fresh and bold colors. The Belgian designer started with suits and infused them with sportswear, resulting in boxy tops with lapels and a zipper across the stomach. The same characteristics came back on a garment which looked like a hybrid of a blazer and a bomber-jacket which were so voluminous that the models almost looked round from the side. Also round were the polka-dot cut-outs on the black sweater.
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In stead of choosing for an runway show, Jean Paul Gaultier decided to present his collection with a video in his iconic rue St-Martin townhouse. Gaultier is known for his provocative ideas and they were still there: bondage-influences, skirts and see-through fabrics but the collection was also full of fine tailoring and subtle casual-wear. Some ethnic influences made the collection light but they never took over the collection. Big stars were the sandals with elastic bands, which were both minimalistic and exotic at the same time.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2014
John Varvatos stole the wardrobe of a gentleman and tore out all the stitches. A blurred squint may kid the eye that it was seeing a refined silhouette, but by the splintered raw edges alone, it’s obvious the promises were all empty. Frayed silk scarves slip under suits, their sheen a side-effect of colour washed hue.
Spare a tight-fisted dash of navy, monochrome prevailed – like the shows of his peers. Varvatos’ distinction, however, was self-governed style; subscribing not to perceptible trends, pieces appear to keep wearability in mind. That’s not to say they will not trail blaze – just, perhaps, without the customary peacocking.
Canali Spring/Summer 2014
If the Canali show didn't have a place in the heart of the modern gentleman, what possibly could? Impossibly suave in every which way, Canali tailored relevance into tradition.
Fabrics so quaint they could have been ripped from the pages of a novel, ticking stripes and toile crawled from back-room lining to center stage. Suits, all the while immaculately cut, went from razor-sharp to roughened by the sweep of natural cloth. Pastel shades went to override their more confident counterparts, the primary hues, making for a collection that harks back to the past, with an eye firmly on the future. 'Nostalgia' was not the word. 'Renewal', though, speaks a thousand truths.
Golden Dinosaurs at Louis Vuitton
Keep a look out for some new additions to Louis Vuitton's 5th Avenue Maison store – the Pre-Fall/Winter 13 collection now shares its window with some rather special paleontological finds...
Gold dinosaurs mingle with mannequins in a wholly inventive merchandising of clothing and accessory lines. A play on the exhibition at Paris's Les Jardins des Plantes Natural History Museum, Velociraptors and Tyrannasaurus Rex were given luxury makeovers. With skeletons sprayed gold, Vuitton bags hang from hands, teeth and tails, as exhibition plaques provide satirical annotation to displays.
Costume National Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Monochrome, it seems, was on the brain when design season came around for Milan. This time led by Costume National – and what a costume it was.
All-leather suits earned their place in a wardrobe outside of the '80s, in fringed black and with stetson in hand. Cowboy boots filled in the cracks left by their trademark stitching, re-emerging as baby-smooth ankle-highs, fit for the modern day Spaghetti Western.
Drainpipe pants purified the look in unblemished white until canvas tones wore through, making way for the pigment-bright shots of aqua and sunshine yellow suits. Such a performance can only be topped by the casting of gold lamé, which gave the show its roaring encore to a dress code that impishly specified black-tie.
Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star
Legendary graffiti artist Chaz Bojorquez and Converse have come together for a first-time collaboration. Bojorquez is of Mexican descent, but was raised in LA. Mexican-American “cholo” style graffiti from the 1940s and the harmony of Asian calligraphy are strong influences on his style. During the 1960s, he started his artistic work on the streets of the city. When he drew in East LA, the classic 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star was part of his uniform. Now, an edition of the sneaker will be a testament to his art.
The Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star features his signature skull tag, dubbed “Señor Suerte“, on the tongue and his scripts cover its inside. The insole features a black and white image of the artist at work under the cover of night. Keeping with the understated design, the shoe will be available in midnight black with suede heel caps. Other elements include nut-and-bolt style eyelets, vintage weave laces and a screen-print of Bojorquez' signature.
On Friday, June 28, the Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star will hit the Converse store in San Francisco with Chaz Bojorquez in attendance.
Iceberg Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In an unforseen twist on proceedings, the announcement of Frederico Curradi's promotion to become the first Creative Director of Menswear at Iceberg just hours before their runway show discernibly gave pace to the catwalk presentation. He will work by the side of artistic director Paolo Gerani, who said of the appointment, “never before in our history have we named someone Creative Director of our brand. There’s a remarkable creative affinity between Federico Curradi and me.”
And with a sportwear theme, he hit the ground running: practical edges meet a high-design finish, resulting in a look that is altogether modishly wearable. Curradi's love of art, meanwhile, pierces through like a javelin, evident in his masterful colour blocking and restrained application of complimentary color. Firstly priming the canvas with a wash of heavy blacks, it was the stealthy flickers of orange and blue that gave an electrifying shock of hue. Elaborate print featured just twice, in an outburst of cubist proportions. Exposed zips funciton as the only forceful detail – a wink to industrial design at that – fusing together the two dimensions of the collection's philosophy: performance duality in urbane design.
Dsquared² Fall/Winter 13 Menswear Campaign
Hipsters and hepcats, bebop and scat – Dsquared²'s Fall/Winter collection took on a somewhat '40s jazz flavour, and their new campaign, starring Brahim Zaibat, also followed suit. Unveiled yesterday, photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot shot with a signature dash of technicolour, replicating the smoky ambience of the sordid speakeasy.
Shadows clamour in the dusky frames, pierced by opulent bursts of jewell-stained velvets. Black patent brogues lace tightly to Swing, until foot-tapping grows to the heavy-booted stomp of the army boot. Utilitywear enlists, with khaki wools and garrison caps reporting for duty, dressed down by distressed denim. Accessories, meanwhile, go to reference the age with military precision, with horn-rimmed glasses the serving accomplice to a jump blues beat.
Tom Ford Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Inverted florals adorning raw silk jackets makes for a slick wardrobe in anyone's books. When such designs are penned by Tom Ford, however, they enter a league of their own. Hawaiian prints played out on slim-fit tuxedo pants and tassel loafers slipped into cheetah skin: Ford's collection bought into the philosophy of the single statement piece, treading only the perimeters that skate the treacherous ground of layering; busy motifs can vie for the attention of everyone, and win the affection of no-one.
But with a pronounced tongue, luridness can translate to luxury. Ankle grazing slacks wink to modern day suave, while an iridescent sheen gives the fully-fledged nod. Beneath opulent blazers, staples veer anywhere between deep V-neck cuts and sky-high turtlenecks, with the classic shirt signposting the dependable middle ground of snappy dressing. A slick wardrobe then? Tom Ford brings new meaning to the term.
London Collections Men: Day 3
The last day of London Collections: Men and by no means the least, ushering the riches of menswear to the forefront in the form of Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford, to name but two. The schedule again promised an eclectic mix of established and emerging talent, kicked off by Shaun Samson – one of St Martin's most recent protégees.
Pulled-back embellishment left for a sense of clean line in Samson's latest collection. Powdery pastels laced between heavy monochrome, fueled by sparse doses of their pearlescent cousins. Fabric flipped between sheer and solid, with neoprene overrulling barely-there organza. The few drums of print hit like a snare, as numerical motifs punched through slack-fit knickerbockers.
The feeling at Nicole Farhi was equally subdued. Ice whites and mineral blues went reasonably unadorned, yet a neutral color-scheme offered a suprisingly vast spectrum of shades. Breaking the pallette, texture proved key, as rib-knits were paired with mesh and brushed wool, with longline coats the sole interjection of recurring print.
Bringing his show to a conventional showspace for the first time, little else was run-of-the-mill about Nasir Mazhar's runway show. Sweatshirts said 'streetwear' but holsters said 'workwear', as urban utility rolled out fashion's most unsuspecting trend.
Making the cut at James Long and Christopher Shannon was high-octane leather. Long fused graphic stripes into open-knit weaves – a complementary contrast to the optical prints whose skin-tight stretch delivered a subtle scuba vibe. Shannon's designs were equally spirited, with laquered hair to match laquered shorts. Where silhouette stayed simple, fabric was experimental.
'Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby' in Tokyo
Landing in Tokyo last week – just in time for the Great Gatsby film premiere - was the travelling exhibition Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby. Renowned for her collaborations with husband Baz Luhrmann on such visual feasts as Strictly Ballroom and Moulin Rouge, costume designer and art director, Catherine Martin, once again exercises her meticulous eye for detail as the visionary behind this year's most anticipated adaptation, with Miuccia Prada also at the creative helm.
Curated by New York studio 2x4, the collection showcases the elaborate gowns, shoes and accessories that dressed the stars of the movie – an absorbing viewing that is only enriched by the archive of sketches and backstage footage presented alongside.
Each show is uniquely tailored to its location. At Tokyo's Prada Epicenter, bespoke mannequins reflect the conceptual interior design of Herzog & de Meuron, while full scale body portraits of the actresses in costume bring The Great Gatsby to life in an experience that is at once ascertainable and unbelievably cinematic.
Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby runs in Tokyo until June 30th.
LVMH presents Les Journées Particulières
If curiosity ever proves too much to bear, Les Journées Particulières may go some way to satisfying that thirst for knowledge – just the tonic for an inquiring mind. Following its successful launch in 2011, this weekend's program of events serve an art and design initiative conducted by luxury brand group and patron, LVMH.
Through Saturday and Sunday, houses under the LVMH umbrella will leave their doors open to the public accross 42 European sites. The Ateliers of Kenzo, Dior and Louis Vuitton – to name but a few – will impart ticketholders with a rare glimpse of their creative environments, providing behind-the-scenes insight to the work of craftsmen and artisans.
From couture to cosmetics, watches to wine, Les Journées Particulières hosts an extensive array of workshops to cater to all trades. With open-houses in six countries, the celebration will surely be far-reaching, enlightening and simply unmissable.
Les Journées Particulières runs from June 15-16th at various venues.
Mulberry opens first Vienna store
Luxury British heritage brand Mulberry has opened its first store in Vienna. Nestled in the heart of its Golden Quartier district, the newly unveiled retail space reinforces the brand's growing authority within Europe, with plans to branch out into other major cities accross the continent in the near future. The store stocks its signature leather goods for both men, with seasonal ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories from the Mulberry womenswear line. Vienna will also become home to the exclusive one-of-a-kind Del Rey bag in Black Alligator.
Founded upon the impeccable craftsmanship of rural England in 1971, Mulberry has earned a reputation for construction of the highest quality, harmonising aspects of timeless tradition with contemporary design.
Over 262 square meters, the new store – designed by British architects Universal Design Studio – pays testament to Mulberry's roots. Swathes of bare oak, timber and limestone lend the location a warm, rustic charm, while accessory accents like white linen dressing tables prove irresistibly quaint. Ringing from the window display is the nostalgic song of the beautifully handpainted music boxes, playing melodies both English and Viennese alike. British pianist and choral director Catherine Field-Leather was called upon to rearrange Hey Jude and London Calling for these playful renditions.
In celebration of the opening, the store will host Afternoon Tea 'with a Viennese twist' each Saturday in July between 2-4pm, when visitors can experience a fusion of quintessentially British and Austrian taste.
Jason Wu for Hugo Boss Womenswear
Jason Wu is to take up a newly established position at Hugo Boss, as Artistic Director of Womenswear. The role will see the designer assume the creative direction for all product and image aspects of womens' ready-to-Wear and accessories by Hugo Boss. While he continues to design for his own line, Wu will open a design studio in New York, while taking charge of his team at the Hugo Boss headquaters in Metzingen, Germany.
His creations will make their debut during the city's Pre-Fall 2014 season, with his first runway show taking place during Fashion Week in February. Choicely working with a designer known for such a distinctly feminine aesthetic, the label described the appointment of Wu as a chance to shift focus to the female side of the brand. Speaking on his new role, the designer expressed admiration for the label's remarkable tailoring, adding, “I plan to develop a strong, feminine womenswear collection that reciprocates the brand’s authority in menswear”.
Chiara Mastroianni for Fendi Perfume
On screen, Chiara Mastroianni's raw spirit radiates from a smile shrouded in mystery. It was only a matter of time, then, before the compelling charm of the actress would render her a muse. A new fragrance by Fendi is to be released this September, inspired by Mastroianni's unique femininity. The launch of the fragrance closely shadows Mastroianni's role in the film Bastards by Claire Denis, in which she features alongside Vincent Lindon this August. Magnetism must run in the blood, it seems, for the daughter of two cinematic icons. Her timeless elegance echoes that of her mother – legendary actress Catherine Deneuve – who fronted the Chanel No.5 campaigns in the '70s, while her alluring disposition owes distinctly to her father, Marcello Mastroianni.
Proenza Schouler win Womenswear Designer of the Year Award 2013
From the half-way point of 2013, the fine details of awards ceremonies gone by seem to get lost and prompts us to question whether or not we've seen it all before. One award, however, evokes a particular sense of déjà vu. Last night's CFDA Fashion Awards crowned designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler with the title of Womenswear Designer of the Year. The evening surely brought back memories for the two designers, who were first honored with the title in 2007, and once again in 2011. Other winners of the evening included Oscar de la Renta, who was praised for his “life and work” as he recieved the Founders Award. Breakthrough talent was also earmarked, as Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis were recognised for their emerging label, Suno. As the curtain fell, one thing was clear – here was an award ceremony that would certainly prove difficult to forget.
Givenchy's family values
Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy gathers his artistic family around him for the house's fall/winter 2013 campaign. In front of the camera we see Amanda Seyfried, Quim Gutierrez, Dalianah Arekion, Mariano Ontanon, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and her mother Carine Roitfeld, who also is the womenswear stylist. Other family members we find behind the camera are photographers Mert Alas et Marcus Piggot, menswear stylist Katy England and hairstylist Luigi Murenu. The campaign, in black and white, is about love and family values and shows the different people of the Givenchy-clan.
Tisci tells about the campaign: "The story goes on: on the set and outside the set with my family, Mert & Marcus, Luigi, Lucia, Carine, Katy… These people are my family. They have always believed in me. They are very faithful to me. Faithfulness and love are the most amazing things in what I want to do. I think it is a moment of history for me in fashion for my own gang. I want to credit each time the people that are very faithful to my style, and faithful as human beings. This time, there is a gypsy feeling because it is the inspiration of the collection. Again, the reality of someone like Carine with her daughter showing real love or Quim with Amanda is very special to me. All of them, including the models, are real gypsies in their own life. They are never in one place. They travel the world. It is a real relationship, not only physically, but also with a content even when far away…”
Once Upon a Time by Karl Lagerfeld
Imagine the French village of Deauville in the year 1913. It is also the same year that Coco Chanel opened her first boutique on the Rue Gontaut Biron, marking a milestone in fashion history. Those years before the first world war were years of glory and glamour, in its purest form.
To promote the Chanel Cruise 2013/14 collection, Karl Lagerfeld takes us back to those days. He created a black and white film starring Keira Knightley and Clotilde Hesme as curly-haired salesgirls in the back then brand new store of Gabrielle Chanel. Topmodel Lindsey Wixson also makes an appearance as the all-admired beauty from the city. The movie will be released on the 8th of May on the Chanel News website at the exact same time the Cruise collection will premiere at Loewen Cluster in Singapore on May 9th.
Prada Journal: A Place for New Stories
In search of new artistic talent, luxury fashion brand Prada has decided to launch a literary contest and shed light on the writers of tomorrow. Joining forces with the Italian publishing house Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Editore, Prada will be exploring language and the art of writing.
The rough theme of the contest is the individual interpretation of reality and how optical devices such as glasses and their lenses frame this reality. The question Prada poses is: “What are the realities that our eyes give back to us? And how are those realities filtered through lenses?“ Writing pieces are supposed to guide the readers through these realities and create worlds of written words.
The contest is now open for entries and the last date for submissions will be the 18th of June.
Skies and Beyond by Bottega Veneta and Nancy Lorenz
Something very special was presented by Bottega Veneta at their Milan store during Salone de Mobile. The luxury fashion house revealed an exclusive line of 25 boxes created in collaboration with the artist Nancy Lorenz. After launching the “Lunar Landscapes“ box collection in 2003 and the “Botanical“ collection in 2002, ten years later the new collection seems to be a worthy follow-up. Its name is “Skies and Beyond“.
Each box is made out of wood and is covered in leather or suede. Rare and valuable materials such as white gold, leaf gold and mother of pearl are used for the lid. Every lid looks different and no box is the same, making each box a unique. Those 25 boxes are the perfect storage space for precious things, while they serve as fancy decoration in any room they are placed in.
Nancy Lorenz, who also lived in Tokyo for five years, found inspiration in the handicrafts and use of unusual materials in traditional Asian arts. She is the perfect fit for such a collection, which is all about detailed hand work. All the boxes are numbered and are available to preview on the official website, where one can also order them with the help of personal shoppers via a phone.
Nicola Formichetti joins Diesel
It has barely been 48 hours since Nicola Formichetti annouced via his Twitter account that he will be leaving the French fashion house of Thierry Mugler. As everything changes at lightening speed in the fashion industry, his next move has already been revealed: Formichetti will be the new artistic director of Diesel, joining Renzo Rosso's legacy.
As an influential social media star, Formichetti plans to gain a following and create a new Diesel community via the online platform of TUMBLR®. They call it the DIESELREBOOT, the project will go live these days.
It is expected that Formichetti will bring fresh energy to the Italian label and reinvent the brand, just as he did with Mugler. The world is still left to wonder how this change will look like.
New Saint Laurent Store Concept Berlin
After the opening of the new Saint Laurent store in Shanghai, the Berlin store also awaits a new concept. The design and architecture of the store is by Hedi Slimane and turns the 530 square meters of shopping space into a hall of white marble and large black tiles.
It marks the transposition of techniques and materials of French art deco. The store is located at Kurfürstendamm 52 and will carry not only womenswear and menswear collections, but also accessories.
Woolrich Hiking Blazer by Tokito
The current collections by Woolrich are inspired by the pioneering citizen journalists, who mingled in war journalism in the late 60s. They invented a completely new way of dressing by mixing professional wear with military elements.
One of the highlights derriving from this inspirational theme is the Travel collection – a mini collection taking ideas from the concept of a reporter’s life, always on the move and traveling around. It includes a versatile and easy-to-wear range of garments, combining functionality and comfort. There are coats with inside and outside pockets, pants with waterproof zips and the ergonomic 3-layer Hiking Blazer with pockets and a hood, which was designed by Tokito. These garments will proof useful even on rainy summer days and bring back fashion as well as function at the same time.
100 Chairs: L’Arte Ritratto by Marni
The Design Museum London has just announced that the charity project entitled ‘100 Chairs: L'Arte Ritratto‘ by Marni has been nominated in the category 'furniture' of the Designs of the Year 2013 awards. It is the only fashion brand nominated. The winners will be decided by a jury on April 17th.
It's a collection of various chair designs, which were then brought to life and put together by ex-prisoners in Colombia. The aim of the project is to support and re-integrate prisonders into social and working life. The furniture style is common with Colombian families, but Marni took a modern spin on the classic chair designs by creating new woven patterns and colour combinations. The chairs' structure is made out of metal and colourful PVC threads.
Two models of the chairs will be exhibited at the Design Museum located at 28 Shad Thames in London from March 20th until July 7th. The opening times of the museum are daily from 10-5.45 hrs.
Mykita X Damir Doma Fall/Winter 2013
The outcome of the first liaison between Mykita and Damir Doma was the DD01 model for Spring/Summer 2013. With round glasses and mixing materials from horn to steel and metal, those glasses are one of a kind. Available as sunglasses for soon-to-come sunny days, the DD01 is hitting stores right now. After the successful collaboration of Mykita and Damir Doma, the fashion brand and millinery designer decided to work together again.
For Fall/Winter 2013 a new range of glasses will be released. There are three new models: the DD02, the DD03 and the DD04. From the DD01 til the DD04 it’s like watching an eyewear evolution and seeing one idea develop into the next. Throughout the whole collection the designers remain true to the aesthetic concept of using contrasting materials and creating visual contrasts in colour. The main material in the mix are stainless steel and acetate, which is a cellulose-based fibre. The circular lenses are manufactured by traditional lens maker Zeiss and available in different colours from brown to green. The DD02 and the DD03 are similar models, but the later one has an extra steel bridge linking the round lenses together. The DD04 puts its focus on the sculptural structure and organic form of the acetate. All of the models remind of a reboot of glasses from the 30s. Damir Doma called the second collaboration “the end of the first cycle of products“. This spawns a lot of hope that there are still many cycles to follow.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013-14
For the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013-14 show the space of the runway was transformed into the hallway of a large Parisian hotel. The walls were draped with old fashioned tapestry and 50 doors out of dark brown wood surrounded the audience. The show immediately conveyed a voyeuristic atmosphere with the viewers being left to wonder what goes on behind closed doors and the desire to take a peek inside.
Once the light turned on, a few of the doors opened and the models left their rooms one after another. Among them were Kate Moss and Georgia May Jagger, who was previously photographed by Bryan Adams for ZOO's last Spring Issue. The collection was a mix of luxurious outerwear and intimate lingerie. The combined styling of the two gave the notion of the models being interrupted either while dressing for a night out or undressing for their lovers. Elegant dressing gowns were thrown on and spontaneously fastened with waist belts, tailored blazers appeared as stand-alone pieces revealing the models’ long legs and astrakhan fur coats were worn over slip dresses with lacy hemlines and pajama ensembles.
Many of the coats and dresses featured colour gradient application of sequins, making the patterns of dull plaids more glamorous. Fur linings and lapels as well as feathery details added another alluring touch. The colours were all toned down and no bright colours disturbed the eye. Shining satin and silk fabrics with cutesy patterns of tiny flowers, seductive see-through lace, high quality wool and luxurious fur were the main fabrics of the collection. A number of delicate dresses with flowery embroidery made for a perfect finish, before the models retreated to their hotel rooms once again. Marc Jacobs, being the genius creator of this collection, took his well-deserved bow – fittingly in red pajamas of the Louis Vuitton menswear collection.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013-14
It was the second season designed by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. His Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection spread a youthful vibe and grunge feel inside the Grand Palais and continued where the runway show of his menswear collection had left off. In a way it was a surprise how he went through with his idea of bringing back 90s grunge yet again, but the designs themselves looked familiar and were all the less shocking.
It was like going back and searching through a punk teen’s closet. The collection displayed what the find of that search could look like – oversized vintage cardigans, plaid men’s shirts, sequined sweater dresses, duffle coats, cut off jeans skirts, floaty flowery dresses, biker leather jackets, black lace slip dresses, furry coats with leopard patterns and rebellious leather bustiers bearing it all.
The list could go on and on. The collection’s variety of garments was remarkable, but nothing looked quite new. The garments were all worn with fishnet tights and bulky leather boots. The show almost left the audience in puzzled disbelief, when the light darkened after the last dress on the runway had been an unusual girly peter pan collar dress with a flowery pattern. However, the show still got a strong finish with a mass of models in tight leather dresses walking down the runway like a mob of punk rock chicks.
Tilda Swinton for Chanel
Tilda Swinton is certainly one of those actresses who always fascinates with her unique personality as well as mysterious aura. ZOO Magazine #17 featured an exclusive interview with the eccentric actress and now Karl Lagerfeld himself chose her as the new face of Chanel's Metiers d'Art Paris-Edinburgh collection.
A perfect fit as her Scottish descent matches the inspiration of the collection. Lagerfeld photographed Swinton with her platinum blonde hair in an all-white ensemble of the luxurious collection. The final versions of the images will gloss the pages of magazines all around the world in early summer 2013.
Rebel Chique Diamonds by Royal Asscher
Only over the last couple of years the making of man-made diamonds has reached the right standards to be of use for the manufacture of jewellery. Unlike natural diamonds, the man-made ones might not come out of the depths of dark mines, but chemically, aesthetically and physically they are the same. Plus, man-made diamonds can vary diversely in colours, while in natural diamonds colour is extremely rare and expensive. This makes them especially attractive for the making of jewellery. The new diamond jewellery brand Rebel Chique wants to re-shape the way to think about diamonds. Instead of seeing diamonds as family heirlooms, they to create a new conception of diamonds being interchangeable high end accessories.
By making diamonds more affordable Rebel Chique wants to create the possibility to have new diamonds each season and for every occasion. However, man-made diamonds are not the product of mass production, but rather of craftsmanship. Before the launch of the Rebel Chique collection, ZOO Magazine was among the first 25 world-wide to receive an exclusive package showcasing one of the brand's diamonds. The company behind Rebel Chique is the Dutch Royal Asscher Diamond Company and since the launch of the official online store, the made-to-order jewellery is available all around the world.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
The heavy red curtains at the back of the runway opened and out came a parade of models wearing what looked like a tribute to religion and its architecture. For their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana let themselves be inspired by the monumental mosaics of architecture of ancient Italian churches.
Portraits of religious figures from the mosaics of the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily were featured on the dresses and tops. The look of the holy imagery was completed by using glistening sequins, golden threads and embroided crystals resembling rubies and emeralds. The models looked gorgeous – red lips, pure skin, large glistening earrings and especially their golden crowns made their look untouchable, like they were religious figures themselves.
Key designs of the collection were large, but still very feminine coats and tops with wide sleeves. Apart from the range of opulent golden garments, a number of elegant pieces of grey herringbone fabric joined the collection. Mini skirts and high waisted knickers in black brocade or embellished red fabric were combined with wide shirts and blouses. The main colours of red, white and black reminded of some of the most important liturgical colours, but sheer lace dresses revealing the models' black underwear were not as innocent as rules of the Catholic chuch permit. Despite the current disputes surrounding the Catholic church due to the pope's resignation, Dolce & Gabbana well in using religion as its inspirational source and enriched the fashion world with yet another beautiful collection.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14
During London Fashion Week Vivienne Westwood took over the space of the Saatchi Gallery. There is always a rebellious feel and a punk attitude to Vivienne Westwood's collections and the presentation of her Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection was no exception.
A bright azure blue was chosen as one of the most dominant colour of the season combined with tones of red and black. Zebra patterns, plaids and stripes were reocurring patterns amongst many others. Tailored blazers and dresses with cowl necklines brought out a new femininity and elegance. Knee length skirts and loose trousers were key designs of the collection, while a few mini skirts and colourful shorts still retained a young and sexy spirit. A lot of shimmering fabrics were used for the collection. Highlights of the show were a long geometric cut coat with wide stripes as well as the colourful glittering zebra dress with the black tulle underskirt that seemed like the perfect frock for a punk princess.
The make-up of the models looked otherworldy, perhaps like a crossing between an Asian doll with procelain skin and a female clown. However, it made the models' looks all the more intriguing and beautiful with their full red lips and turquoise to yellow eye shadow. Be it the styling or the designs, Vivienne Westwood never conforms to what other designers do. It was no surprise that her ability not to abide by the rules and to go through with unusual ideas produced yet another unique collection.
Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2013-14
The designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler succeed in reinventing their label's indentity every season. This time they passed on using colourful fabrics, but instead focussed on a collection almost entirely in black and white, mingled only with some silverish greys and hints of peach and mint.
The collection of the two young designers is more elegant than ever before. Just as in a Haute Couture show, bouclé was used for jackets and fine lace for the final dresses. In addition high quality leather and feathery details appear throughout the collection. Essential to the collection are jackets with wide sleeves and knee-length skirts with slits in front as well as slightly shorter A-line skirts. A range of pumps with pointed toe caps, bows, laser cut details and not too high heels give the collection another classy touch as well as the slim square clutches the models carry under their arms.
Structured jackets and coats live from their asymmetric cuts that look good either way – worn open or fastened with big round buttons. The wideness and straight lines of the coats work very well together with the sleeveless dresses that accentuate the slim waists of the models. The garments look elegant, yet edgy. Sophisticated, yet subtle. Every fashion show it's a surprise what the designer duo comes up with and this collection proved again that it's always worth the wait.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The new Miu Miu Spring/Summer Campaign was taken on by the photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Having shot many campaigns for fashion houses such as Dior or Yves Saint Laurent, this is yet another work to add to their long list of fashion films.
The campaign depicts seven women surviving in the modern world protrayed by important models of the current fashion scene, including Adriana Lima and Bette Franke. On the one hand these women seem strong and confident in furry frocks and leather gloves, on the other hand they look fragile and alienated in thin slip dresses. Their whispering, secrets and close relationships empower them, while they long for a retreat and a chance to daydream at the same time.
Especially Bette Franke leaves an impression, featured with fiery red hair and pale skin. The model reminds a lot of Monica Vitti's character in the Italian film “Red Desert” from 1964 by Michelangelo Antonioni. Isolation in the industrial world is one of the central themes of the movie and the same topic is challenged again with the stunning visuals created by Inez & Vinoodh.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
Leather-look, all in black and white – these are the leitmotifs of the new Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14 womenswear collection shown at the New York Fashion Week. Of course there are other fabrics such as dark denim as well, but anything leather-looking is surely a fabric of the collection. The new creative director Andreas Melbostad is bringing a rebellious rock chic back.
Zipper details appear on the side of biker jackets or diagonally on extremely short mini skirts. Studs out of dark grey metal cover jackets and dresses, while wide belts with square metal buckles and square hand-held clutches are an accessories to jeans and coats. Never have stand-up collars and tight fitted woolen pants looked more defiant. Wide boyfriend shirts made out of thin fabrics add a casual dimension to the otherwise so slim-looking silhouette of the models.
Determined and strong are the looks Melbostad is going for with his new collection. The models wear black eyeliner, stare coolly into the photographers lenses and their wet hair is combed back sleekly. It's the discovery of the new Diesel Black Gold woman.
Celebrating the 140th anniversary of the Levi's 501
The night before the Grammy Awards the party already started – with a special anniversary celebration. The Ace Museum hosted the 140th birthday party of the much-loved Levi's 501 model, which was first designed and worn in 1873.
The exclusive event featured intimate performances by M83 and Frank Ocean, who won two of the esteemed awards the night after. Among the 600 guests were Alan Cumming, Michael K. Williams, Zoe Saldana, Solange Knowles, Rumer Willis and many more.
Saldana and Knowles were spotted wearing polka-dotted looks, while quite a few of the stars resorted to wearing their own pais of the celebrated Levi's model. Whether it was a new pair or a torn version as seen on Rumer Willis, L.A.'s celebrities rocked denim.
The setting of the party was an installation tracing back the history of the Levi's 501 in all its variations leading up from the very first version to the new coloured 501 in fierce red. Photos of famous personalities from various decades wearing Levi's jeans accompany the denims dangling from the wooden beams of the installation and it is already certain that this is not the 501's last birthday, but that there will be many more to come.
Closed Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign by Closed has a young and fresh feel to it. The 16-year old German model Esther Heesch is accompanied by Swedish model Lingus Gustin, whose aethestics fit well together.
The couple was photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby against a clear blue sky and all of the photographs seem to be in soft and light colours. The garments look casual and range from thin jeans and chambray shirts to light white cotton trousers. A matching video clip by Jonas Lindström shows the young models diving into a pool, splashing water and glistening water surfaces as well as the two of them looking up into the sunlight and open sky. It is full of symbols for freedom and the love of being independent. As new as the campaign is, so is the design of the Closed website. Following through with the simple black logo on a white background it got a makeover and is now ready for summer to come. A nice feature is the display of all the different key looks with pictures of tiny models, who seem to move around their frames freely.
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2013
2013 is the fourth year the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is being awarded. This year’s winner is British shoe designer Nicholas “Nick” Kirkwood, featured in ZOO Magazine #21 for his unconventional footwear designs. Five different designers were shortlisted, but Nick Kirkwood was chosen by the jury to receive the fund doted 200,000 pounds.
The professional business plan he had drawn up with his business partner Christopher Suarez vowed the judges and of course also Kirkwood’s unique designs and ability to create a modern line of accessories.
The prize includes a mentoring programme developed by the BFC to help Kirkwood to make the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand. Kirkwood is graduate of the renowned Central Saint Martins design school and his first collection was launched in Spring 2005.
G-Star RAW Fall/Winter 2013-14
Acoustic guitar sounds and a blue backlight fill the dark room when a ballerina enters with tiny steps on pointe shoes. After performing some steps of the Dying Swan solo, she throws away her belted coat revealing a tight bodysuit and trying to break conventions. One sentence is glaring from the screen behind her: The Art of Raw.
The G-Star Raw Fall/Winter 2013-14 runway show in Berlin integrated various art forms in making it a unique performance. The new icon of G-Star Raw is film star Michael Madsen, ending the show by reading a poem with his raspy voice and roaring into the microphone.
A huge variety of outerwear is presented by the models: quilted coats, hooded capes, belted and double breasted jackets. Denim is used in a lot of varied ways – for example as the lining of a jacket. Camouflage patterns, utility shorts, aviator sunglasses and caps as well as badges covering the boys’ jackets give the collection a military feel.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
For the second time designer Philipp Plein works together with the renowned photographer Terry Richardson. Their aim was to produce an ad campaign showing sophisticated and strong protagonists reflecting on the brand’s one-of-a-kind identity. It’s also a tribute to contemporary women.
The backdrop is a modern version of the inside of Versailles. Dark wood panelling and bright neon light instead of candle light are the setting. The stars of the campaign are Brazilian transgender model Lea T, British model Poppy Delevingne and none other than Mr. Richardson himself. With their different looks and personalities, the two models show strength and sensuality in their own individual way.
From heavy jewellery, studs and black leather to delicate lace and silk the looks of the campaign are rebellious, seductive and luxurious at the same time. More pictures can be seen on the official Philipp Plein website.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
Prints of little bikes, colourful flowers, the Virgin Mary and other religious symbols cover Dolce & Gabbana's delicate fabrics in their Fall/Winter 2013-14 menswear collection. The two Italian designers devote their collection to “devotion” itself. Whether it being religion, family or love, all of those were the inspiration for the new collection.
Fine black suits, jackets covered in white lace or flowery embroidery look chic and romantic. The romantic feeling is reflected in the setting of the show, with roses on the walls and chandelier shedding a dim light over the catwalk. The simple shirt of light fabrics like poplin with crew necks and wide sleeves can be seen as a key piece. Its appearance on the runway is continuous, but in all thinkable variations with handworked details.
Street casting very young to middle-aged Sicilian men was the right way to achieve a sense of authenticity. The difference of not only age, but also body type and ways of walking didn't matter. Instead it left an impact and stayed with the viewer long after the show.
Z Zegna Fall/Winter 2013-14
Smart city men taking a stroll outside. “Urban Wanderer meets the Great Outdoors” is the theme of Z Zegna's new menswear collection, sending guys with slick hair down a path that resembles a trail of countless wooden pieces leading through a forest.
To return dedicated craftsmanship and to make yesterday and tomorrow meet was the goal of the collection. A great number of different fabrics was used, from knitted wool, quilted cloth to heat sealed fabrics. Raincoats, classic coats with fiery red inlays and floor length scarves have a certain coolness to them, while variations of brown and red give the collection a warm look. With this show Paul Surridge proved once again how he is able to reinvent classic garments and redefine them. A great escape from the hectic urban life it was.
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
This was the second Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior by Raf Simons. The collection started with references to the New Look Dior himself created in the fifties, but only in a more spontaneous and thus more modern way. This was also a chance for Raf SIMONS to show the house's magnificent techniques by the atelier. Even if the pleats on the dresses looked rather whimsical, it was done with so much care and savoir-faire, Fresh colors were used on lucious silks as they draped fluidly over the models' bodies.
Raf SIMONS chose a garden as the scenery of the collection, a strong notion for the house, considering its love for flowers. Flower motifs and petals were used decorating a couple of dresses. Some parts were rather sensual, with figure-hugging shapes and slits on provocative places. The whole collection can be considered as a meeting of the graphic and the feminine, with sharp suits and color-blocking on the one side and airy dresses on the other.
There was more then one reference to the past in this collection. Sometimes it looked a little bit sixties, sometimes it veered into the fifties.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2013-14
It seems like a lovely idea to wake up one day and realize you're a rock god in the sixties. That was exactly the metamorphose that happened to the Dries van Noten man of fall/winter 2013-14. Like a modern Jim Morrison in Paris, he walks confident in his pyjama-shirt or ethnic robe, wearing it with studded jeans that were made to look like leather. Fuzzy and loosely fitted sweaters added a layer of warmth to a collection showing quite some neck and chest to enhance the nonchalant and louche aura. Silhouettes were sometimes slightly (and sometimes not so slightly) oversized. Some jackets' shoulders extended way beyond the ones of the models but with their striding strut and wit in layering, it only added to his coolness. Dries is a master in mixing patterns and materials, some combinations would have failed completely in the wrong hands, but the way he did it can only be described as emotional and liberating.
The New Dandy
The year 2011 marks Gucci's 90th anniversary. In celebration of this milestone, Creative Director Frida Giannini “explored Gucci's codes from many perspectives reintroducing elements from the DNA with the 70s and the spirit of dressing iconic men as a reference.”
The result is a new dandy. One who loves to seduce mixing vanity and tradition. Soft mohair sweaters, tailored suits, subtle biker touches, rock 'n roll furs. The Gucci Fall Winter 2011/2012 Collection becomes a kaleidoscopic story where the only rule is a strong personality.
Kaviar Gauche Launches Bridal Concept Store
Duesseldorf's Koenigsallee flaunts a whole lot of exquisite designer stores, but until March 17th, an exclusive bridal concept store was yet to be present. Berlin-based designer duo Kaviar Gauche, aka Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, had their aim set on changing that. In a love-focused, bloomy ceremony, they launched their first Duesseldorf bridal concept store on the famous shopping mile in attendance of their elaborated clientele. Between champagne-colored walls and smoked-glass mirrors, guests such as modern art collector Julia Stoschek and director Oskar Roehler admired not only the bridal couture itself, but accessories and wedding essentials galore. The concept store is heaven-on-earth for a wedding planer, or at least the dream inspiration for a bride-to-be. Headpieces, shoes, bridesmaid dresses and registry outfits, even jewelry and candles – Kaviar Gauche makes sure there's nothing missing once you step up to the altar. All those pretty things are surrounded by tasteful design, centering around the steel tree-wardrobe designed by architect Amir Abadi. As a message on the wall puts it, on the Koenigsallee in Duesseldorf, you will not only find a wedding dress, but “everlasting love”. We do!
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2016 Eyewear Campaign
Cara Delevingne may have stopped walking the big runways, but she still has some of her modeling duties in mind – especially, if they involve her close friend Karl Lagerfeld. The British model stars in the new CHANEL eyewear campaign, which was teased by a flashing video released a few weeks ago. While the bespoke visualization presented a pair of unique CHANEL sunglasses adorned by a laser-cut quilt design, the campaign now shows a collection enhanced by more optics and sunglasses from the Plein and Bijou 2016 ranges. The Plein collection revisits models in a tie-dye optic, merging the colors from black to blue or white in the frame acetate. Bijou on the other hand focuses on a CHANEL code classic, the timeless camelia. Made from metal and enamel, it adorns the glasses in an abundance on their legs. Next to eyewear, the campaign also sees Delevingne sporting pieces from the CHANEL AIRLINES Ready-to-wear collection. A tweed cap and jacket and a grosgrain ribbon-bowed top complete her urban and contemporary CHANEL look, subtracting the need for a logo on the campaign pictures. Even if Miss Delevingne has abandoned the runways, we're still glad she makes time for her fashion friends – especially, if it's Karl Lagerfeld.
Gucci's Second #GucciGram
Since Alessandro Michele has taken over the reigns at Gucci, nothing the brand puts on the market is monochrome, monotonous or dull. Take their eclectic, era-spawning collections, themes and innovations, or, for example, the collaborative digital #GucciGram project. Launched in its second installment, the project now dotes upon the new Gucci Tian pattern and invited artists and online illustrators to interpret and rework their own style of the pattern. What arose from that is imagery featuring everything from blurry cats to butterflies in a jar to a floral skyline building and cartoon figures crossing the street. The eclectic, multifaceted spirit to this campaign was created by only Asian-origined artists, referencing the cultural background of the pattern itself. At the same time, the artworks refer to Western orientalist fantasies and 18th-century Chinoiserie. The final results will not only be shown across the artists' social media accounts, but naturally also on Gucci's instagram account and on an extra micro website. Gram it or talk it, if there's one thing that Gucci gets going, it's participation.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Fred Perry x Raf Simons SS16
For all those that wondered what Raf Simons might turn to after his Dior departure, Fred Perry has just delivered an exquisite answer. After rekindling their cooperation in 2013, the brand and Belgian designer have since featured more capsule collections, the latest one dressing the season of Spring/Summer 2016. Shot in a blurry aesthetic, the new campaign pictures show a sporty, contemporary collection that focuses on the look of stripes and v-lines. Perry's and Simons' collaborative work is a modernist approach to Striped Pique Shirts, Zip Front Chevron Pique Shirts, Insert T-shirts and Sweaters. Combining classic colors with flashing inserts, the collection is a mix and match of a modern attitude and yet another spin on the past. The wearer is seen a man in motion and stand out styles like wider cut Chevron Insert T-shirt adjust to that effortlessly. Go for the red-inserted pieces on a bright day or take the more classic route with beige-blue combinations. Not only the wearer seems to be on the move, but so is the designer. Raf Simons leaves the world in excitement for his next projects - and we've got the feeling that this one was just the start.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2016
It seems like after seasons of blazing colours, logo prints fast food and toy designs, Jeremy Scott has found another way to express himself. His latest Moschino Fall/Winter collection is no shy one, but definitely a retreat from the bold and buzzing statements made in the last seasons. This collections is more of an outlook back on Pop culture: it's a little Madonna, in the 80s, a little of the 2000s, a bit of Kate-Moss-street style from 2010. That speaks for the first half of the collection, at least. After half of the looks have vanished from the runway, eccentric Scott is back on track. Burning ball gowns alluding to the 15th century find their climax in a design that sports a larger-than-life chandelier that surprisingly is not the show finale. That, in fact, is maybe more Scott himself, as he struts down the runway trough the gold-framed show scenery. One thing's for sure: with Moschino, boredom is eradicated from the dictionary. He is the one to open doors to his own underground club, where Madonna, Kate Moss and all the other faces party until dawn. Or until their dresses burn. That is, if they haven't before.
Fay Fall/Winter 2016
When we think of cowgirls, the outdated cliché that most likely pops to mind is pink fringes, hot pants and knotted check blouses. Fay’s Fall/Winter collection has none of that. At Milan Fashion Week, the outerwear label presented a collection that was designed for the cool cowgirl, the one that rocks a hoedown with understatement instead of on a mechanic bull. With a color palette very much sticking to blacks, dark blues, greys and browns, the collection is ready to be worn not only in the desert but on the city sidewalk. However, it's not all gloomy western with Fay-designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Shifty floral dresses that end mid-thigh release the collection of its seriousness and add a light and very, say, “western chic”. Between that, the designs also feature allusions to other cultures, with vaguely aztec patterns reminding of even more southern inspirations. The finishing touch comes in form of glittering, fringed and embroidered party dresses, taking the selection from the saloon to the salon. Slip into one of Fay's new designs and we'll bet you, you'll never get that odd cowgirl cliché again.
Emilio Pucci F/W 16
With a green coat and a striped jacket, Emilio Pucci started its Milan Fashion Week show quite subtle. One look later though, the Italian brand went in for the big bang - and that speaks for the rest of the show. This season, no piece at Pucci goes without pattern, without fluorescent colours or newly assembled stripes. Starting with patterns that in their design recall mountaintops, the collection then went to full-on patterned looks, from chevron stripes meeting modern-art-inspired colour blocking to a mixture of camouflage and flower power creating a whole new look. Shiny tops blazing the brand name in its classic writing break up this potpourri of patterns, while plain coloured coats also give the eye a break. Emilio Pucci went in for the big bang, but we don’t mind, since that mountaintop pattern looked so good, we’re definitely fancying a ski trip now.
Photos: Monica Feudi
Mulberry F/W 16
She is a bright student, broody in her own melancholy, surrounded by heavenly pearl shimmer, a dark romantic at heart. Poetic words define the latest collection by British label Mulberry. This by no means is capriciousness, but lies in the inspiration of the brand's new creative director Johnny Coca. For his first Mulberry F/W creations, the designer was inspired by no other than William Shakespeare. It's his ability to capture every stream of society, from royalty to nobody that Coca admires and therefore translated into his new collection, along with inspiration from the contrast of London streets. The result is a clothing range defined by contradictions. Sharp tailoring meets pure femininity; soft pleats are fused with bold cuff details. Johnny Coca is testing his limits, but always holds onto the British soul. Majestic, big-collared capes go along soft tulle dresses and luxury knitwear. Details such as an overload of rings allude to royal influences, while on the other hand variously sized buttons suggest functionality. May the poetic inspirations to this collection be recited often, as for Mulberry, to be or not to be is out of question.
CHANEL SS16 Eyewear
It’s doesn’t even last a minute, but the new CHANEL eyewear campaign literally flashes you. The mini moving image is defined by flashing blue lights, creating an iridescent atmosphere that recalls both ambulance sirens and dance club nights. Amidst this lightshow sits no one other than CHANEL’s favorite associate Cara Delevingne, sporting a simple hat and, of course, the prominent sunglasses. While the glasses themselves allude to the look of a mirror mask, their special trait is the “quilted” border, created by laser cut fabrication. It is those lines that breathe more CHANEL into the sunglasses than into any pair ever before. Wear them to the club or on the high-street - these glasses will have the attention flashed at you just like the lights flash at Cara.
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016
When in New York, the Marc Jacobs models took to the runway, all the unscrupulous fashion crowd was left with was surprise. Few hours later, fashion critics found themselves in frenetic ecstasy about the new Jacbos designs, and there are plenty reasons why. It is hard to put this collection into words, as it was eclectic and layered – in both literal and fashion sense. Jacobs created the big show, defined by the big silhouette. Strutting on knee-high, laced boots, the models sported coats, blazers and capes in voluptuous egg shapes to be paired with impressively embellished dresses and loose sweaters. The materials one can’t even begin to enlist, for there are so many to choose from. Leather, denim, fur, feathers – Marc Jacobs has it all. The selection of models, who all presented a 1920s hair style, in parts was another surprise. One look was showcased by no other than Lady Gaga, who blended into the runway line-up quite effortlessly. For the grand finale, Jacobs later presented another enormous checkered cape, only to then bow to the applause as if nothing had happened. If only all surprises could be this magnificent.
CHANEL Opens on Königsallee in Düsseldorf
Get out your address books (pardon, smartphones) and switch to contacts: CHANEL has a new address! The Parisian brand changed its Düsseldorf location on the notorious shopping mile Königsallee to number 40. After having been located on the backside of an inner courtyard for years, CHANEL is now full front accessible to shoppers from allover the world. The new store opened its doors on February 10th and hosts 350 square meters of divine luxury goods. Customers enter the boutique via a gallery, where they are met by Andrei Molodkin's oil sculpture CHIC. Further on, an accessory room displays all smaller goods from handbags to sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. The watch collections of Mademoiselle Privé, J12 and Première find dedication in an additional section. Naturally, the clothes themselves deserve their own honoring: two intimate and comfortable Prêt-à-porter salons invite the shopper to prop down on a tweed sofa, lounge in a Wendell Castle chair or have a glance into the book on the Ingrid Donat table. New York architect Peter Marino was entrusted with the design of this particular boutique and incorporated the two CHANEL core characteristics: timeless modernity and Parisian refinement. Inspiration to the new rooms was Mademoiselle Chanel's famous apartment at Rue Cambon 31, where intimacy and elegance were united in every room. Safe to say that after such a precise reinvention process, Königsallee No. 40 is its equal in every way.
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
Eastpak X Tim Coppens
Over time, high fashion has encountered many unusual and unexpected collaborators. At New York Men's Fashion Week, it was once again met with another surprising category: backpacks. For his F/W collection, designer Tim Coppens teamed up with no other brand than classic backpack manufacturer Eastpak. The American brand, which has defined the backs of many on their way to school and university and the designer have previously collaborated for Eastpaks Artist Studio line. The 2016 rucksack line is the first collection of the collaborators after the work on the studio. Presented during Coppens' show at NYMFW, the collection consists of bags that are constructed from a lot of influences. Just like Eastpak, Coppens finds his inspiration in international youth cultures. The new designs carry everything (metaphorically and literally) : traits of Japanese street wear, technical materials, unexpected color combinations met with western influences and finest craftsmanship. Available only as a limited edition, the collection presents backpacks in four colors, made from high-quality leather and adorned with contrasting lacing. Mesh inserts give the necessary sporty touch while an easy-to-handle top flap makes space for all belongings. Eastpak is no longer seen on the way to school, but on the way to rule the cat – and sidewalk.
Diesel Black Gold SS16 Ad Campaign
Diesel Black Gold has revealed their new SS16 advertising campaign, a call to he brand’s irreverent and contemporary spirit. French photographer Karim Sadli shot models Lexi Boling and Timur Muharemovic in Downtown Los Angeles, a urban and metropolitan location that fits the collection like a glove. Conceived by Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, the campaign presents key pieces such as the Type 2614 extra-long jeans, a design that through its exaggerated length creates a crushed effect, worn by Muharemovic. Boling meanwhile sports the season’s signature overalls and a leather jacket detailed with metal grommets and whipstitches. With this campaign, Diesel shows once again that it doesn’t take much to impress. If only it would be so easy for everyone.
Icosae F/W 16
Take the cash and run – a thought than some of us might encounter more than once in life. For Icosae, it’s the title to their latest F/W 16 designs, shown at Paris Fashion Week. They took the cash and ran, ran through time in particular. The designers drew inspiration from a vast pool of media and youth cultures. From groups like London suede heads to the techno music generation, they extracted inspiration from music, photography, drawing, sculpting and mostly paintings. The result is a balance between realism and just enough abstraction that ends up in a deconstruction of tailoring proportions. Asymetrical shapes mark this collection just as much as the dark colors that underline the urban atmosphere. Take the cash and run – but only dressed in Icosae.
Dior Homme Show & Dinner F/W 16/17
At the Dior Homme Show, the atmosphere was one to be taken in slowly. Red lights met skate parks and let the models waltz through the venue surrounded by larger-than-life video installations. The collection itself took on the “very rouge” vibe of the scenography, working several red tones either in small or large-scale checks combined with dark colors and eccentric black-and-white prints. Monochrome flower prints went along with detailed knitwear patterns and smaller millefleur print. To finish off the special occasion, Dior continued the show with a celebrity-attended exclusive dinner at the Paris Museum of Modern Art. Fascinating clothes followed up by fancy food? What a night!
Augustin Teboul F/W 16/17
Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul combine glamour and rock’n’roll in their collection like no other. The most astonishing design choice for FW 16/17 was hands down color. Both ladies are renowned for their femme fatale aesthetic circling 50 shades of black. This season, popping 80s hues made a guest appearance in delicate mesh structures and beading, from barely there tights to bodices, adding a glam rock touch in deconstructed knits and graphic structures to the all-black core of the collection. As a result, the Augustin Teboul woman becomes the naughty lovechild of Olivia Newton-John and Molly Ringwald. Delicate wovens mixed with luxe wool and leather pack some punch and cater to elegance and laissez-faire. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul always keep their eyes on their woman: an enigma wrapped in a riddle, teasing the beholder with lots of skin before pulling away, covering in long layers of darkness.
Estonian label Whitetail is renowned as one of the key players in sustainable fashion and ethical production. Designer Margit Peura stuck to her minimalist cuts, enhancing each design with a golden headpiece. A distortion of the viewer’s perspective was the result, putting the clothes rather than the individual behind them in focus. For FW 16/17 Whitetail worked with a range of materials and textures: knitted sweaters and dresses stand next to see-through chiffon blouses, heavy woolen coats and delicate woven skirts. Eclectic prints, appliques, buttons and ruffled hems add a playful twist to the collection. Bright colors transformed last season’s muted Whitetail aesthetic. This time around bold red, royal blue, light grey, khaki and salmon liven up glum winters skies.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 16/17
At Lemaire’s menswear presentation, dark colors and very classic cuts were in store. The label presented a menswear wardrobe perfectly suitable for its wearers daily business. Classic single and double -breasted coats were featured next to simple jackets with oversized pockets and slim-cut blazers. Paired with a sophisticated black cape and baggy pleated trousers, the outerwear makes for a contemporary look that the Lemaire man can take on a business meeting, a date, or just pop out for a drink in. It’s versatility that makes good clothing, and we thank Lemaire for delivering just that.
KENZO Fall 16/17
To find inspiration for their latest collection, KENZO designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon lived the jet set life. Multiple journeys to japan and numerous concerts are base to their F/W 16/17 designs. Therefore, Japanese culture in its entirety, but especially music and concerts play a distinctively important part: the new KENZO collection is an ode in itself, an ode to music, an ode to fans, and to positivity. Leon and Lim were fascinated by the unique connection between musicians and their fanbase and wanted to emphasize the feeling of positivity that is harbored by a concert crowd. But how does one translate such a feeling into clothing? KENZO does by creating a relaxed look with a nevertheless slim silhouette. Comfortable wool pants combined with faux crocodile leather jackets melt the cool and the eccentric, the latter supported by a mix of psychedelic prints. Attention to detail is key, with peace-symbol buttons and the KENZO founder signature used as embellishment completing a vast collection. What to do now? Check for plane tickets to Japan. Or at least for a concert ticket. Or both. Jet set is on!
Xavi Reyes FW 16/17
The Spaniard followed the call of Berlin’s capital to present his FW 16/17 collection during MBFWB, while the key players of this season’s official campaign, Natasha Poly, Atsuko Kudo and Jeff Barks had flocked to the front row from their previous Fashion Talk to take in the unisex designs. Combining the masculine and the feminine, futurism and tradition in edgy cuts, asymmetry, muted hues and free silhouettes. Inspired by his home, the Extremadura, he breaks melancholy severity with romantic elements such as white embroidered lace, flounces and oriental patterns oh so typical for the southern Spanish region.
Dries Van Noten: Peacock and Psychedelic F/W 16
Dries Van Noten’s latest collection is quite well defined by its own accessories. Listen up, and create your own image of it: Army style marching boots, classic city and dress shoes, faux fur coat collars worn as shawls and, last but not least, golf shoe tassles worn separately. Such a summary of deconstructed, estranged characteristics applies to the whole collection. This season, the Dries Van Noten man is a modern day peacock that displays his feathers with pride. Besides that, there is some psychedelic jugendstil displayed. The Van Noten wearer is an iconoclast that carries his very own uniform. Still, uniforms have also soaked into this collection. Insignia of regalia are ripped off and embellished onto the wardrobe of an iconic man. Bullions are worn as badges of ornament – restraint is not on the menu for Van Noten these days. Far more, he is all about deconstruction: clothing construction is subverted and the silhouettes, materials and colors mix in an open-minded assembly. Forms of formality of the sartorial are met with the oversized, robust uniform wools go along with silk jacquards, fine cashmere and velvet. The colors also spill broadly, from classic, to military, to outright flamboyant. Today, with Dries Van Noten, we’re not just us. We’re like a peacock. Only with this collection, each of our feathers looks different.
Marina Hoermanseder Lifts Off for F/W 2016
Amelia Earheart without a doubt was one of the most impressive women in this world. Flying across the Atlantic Ocean as the first woman to do so, she has established a legend-status that has been mentioned across various media for years. What stands out in all of this coverage is her imperturbable passion and bravery. Marina Hoermanseder takes that as an inspiration for her F/W 16/17 collection. Inevitably, the garments mirror Earhart’s looks in form of flight jackets, pleat-fronted trousers and hooded coats. Female self-determination meets subtle, masculine notes. Hoermanseder’s woman is independent and displays her femininity in a charming way. Embroidered embellishments and shiny buckles add both a functional and fashionable touch. These details support the use of premium leather and make the looks a high-end “avion” style. Without a doubt, Amelia Earheart was one of the most impressive women in this world. And we’re quite sure she would have felt pretty good in this gear.
G-Star RAW Celebrates
For G-Star, the 20th anniversary of their most famous denim design must feel like the growing up of the first-born child. Elwood 5620, the brand's most revolutionary and cult piece, turns 20 this year. Thus, in celebration spirits, G-Star has decided to do what maybe separates this celebration from a normal child's birthday: they're throwing an all-year party. At the end of every month, a new Limited Edition design of the Elwood 5620 will be revealed. Among these editions will be collaborations with artists and former G-Star cooperators. And it has already kicked off: for January, the G-Star Elwood Moto was released, homage to the Enduro races that took place until the late 1960s. The original Elwood 5620 model was released back in 1996, as the first denim pants to feature 3D-denim technology and a design unique to its name. Until now, the Elwood has stayed relevant to G-Star and has become a brand DNA of sorts. As the cherry on top of the birthday celebrations, Ellen Von Unwerth shot a special SS16 campaign only dedicated to the pants. Any birthday wishes left? We don't think so.
Bally's Private Party: FW 2016 Menswear
When was the last time you attended a really good party? Like, actually, a really good one? Mesmerizing guests, good music and just the right amount of elusive small talk. Been some time, hasn't it? Well, Bally is about to invite you to the best party in a long time. Titled “A Checkered Past- Scene 1”, the brand released the menswear Fall/Winter collection along with the story of an edgy-but-glamorous ballroom party. The crowd: artists, rock stars, aristocrats and geeks – eventually everyone you wished for. Photographers lounge next to artists and talk about California, while a rock'n' roll frontman reminisces about his last tour. All of these very inspirational people have found their place in Bally's new collection. If the allover print shirt with kiss-inviting lips paired with some green fur coat isn't yelling for a rock star, then what is? If it's not the velvet suits and slouchy fedora hats that walk into the artist's wardrobe, then what is? If it's not the shiny, double-breasted coat and glasses that make for a good geek, please let us know, then what is? 2016 is not that old, but Bally has already hosted the party of the year and somehow, just very quietly, has become every one of their guests. Cheers!
Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Diesel Black Gold has a special delivery for you! Inspired by urban bike messengers, the label presented its menswear Fall/Winter collection at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. Creative Director Andreas Melbostad and his team thought of couriers riding their bikes through urban capitals while designing the garments that create a rebellious attitude in an industrial setting. References to functionality are obvious, with cycling pants and “double trousers” (shorts stitched to narrow-cut styles) making it easy to move through the city, even if you’re not delivering a package. Set against that, capes, parkas and field jackets with voluminous silhouettes submit the “fashion” element in this collection. Regarding accessories, the bike messenger is present again: cross-body bags and leather pouches for the arm keep the hands free – for whatever the urban setting has to hold for you. Leather combat boots top off the primarily dark collection in style. Well, seems like tomorrow, we’ll be taking the bike to work. If it’s that stylish?
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
FENDI Women SS16 Ad Campaign
Flowers for a beautiful woman. Who wouldn’t wish for that? FENDI is here to help. But instead of placing a bunch of nice flowers on our doormat, the brand has spread them all over their latest designs, revealed in their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. Whether it’s fur, plexi, studded leather or graphic details – flowers are key at FENDI this year. The new campaign transfers a good breeze of spring, applied also to the clothing through pure eclecticism, layered luxury and the playful alternation of lengths, cuts and volumes. Natural hair and makeup make clear that this campaign is not an advertisement for little girls – but for the strong woman on the look for a fresh, cool wardrobe. For these visuals, Karl Lagerfeld took to the camera again and shot models Edie Campbell and Vanessa Moody surrounded by larger-than-life-sized flowers. “Edie and Vanessa are the girls of the moment, each with a different style representing the typical model of fashion of today and the woman I thought of for this collection is the one who can identify herself with these girls.", the designer commented. Other than flowers and models, one can also make out FENDI bags such as “Peekabo”, “3Jours” or “Micro Baguette” as the stars of the new campaign. And of course, they blossom in their most beautiful way, too. We sure wouldn’t mind one of those on our doormat.
PAULE KA Spring/Summer Advertising Campaign 16
For a grown-up, elegant and sophisticated woman, is there ever such a thing as a crush on clothes? We believe there is, and it comes in form of PAULE KA’s SS 16 advertising campaign. For the latest visuals, the brand collaborated with photographer Miles Aldridge to catch the spirit of both Pop Art and 50s French Riviera. Aldridge and Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, new Creative Director of PAULE KA, were inspired by the bold colors and cubist forms featured in the paintings of Richard Lindner, as well as the poetic portraits of Henri Matisse. Together, they have moulded this inspiration into a contemporary vision of Parisian elegance. French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot poses in the ‘couture-chic’ the brand is known for, embodying femininity and sophistication. Not only with the design has the brand gone on a trip down memory lane, but also with this campaign’s execution. Aldridge, being one of the few non-digital photographers left in his realm, releases a special edition of collectible Polaroids along with the campaign. Paris, Polaroids and Pop Art? We’re certain that grown-up, elegant women around the world will be crushing about this.
Behind The Scenes with VETEMENTS: SS16
Fashion shows and collections are a nice thing, no doubts detected. Sometimes though, it’s even more interesting to peek behind the curtain, to have a behind-the-scenes view at the new collections. Blooming label VETEMENTS has decided to enhance their latest SS16 collection with a book that gives us exactly that: an unfiltered look at the designs, a behind-the-scenes, a personal close-up. Shot exclusively by Pierre-Ange Carlotti, the book features modern photography that depicts models as they check their phones, hug or take their position for the presentation. The artworks additionally feature a handful of detail shots, with the VETEMENTS shoe design being the center of attention more than once. The book will be published by London publishing house “Idea”, according to whom it is the largest photography book ever dedicated to a single fashion collection. 304 pages thick, it will be available at the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum in Paris from January, 23 onward. After that, stocks will go to Idea’s Dover Street Market locations in London, New York and Ginza, Tokyo. Ever wanted to be behind the scenes at a fashion show without having to leave your seat? Flip open the book and be ready to dive in.
Photos: Pierre-Ange Carlotti for Idea
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
SIBLING FW Men 2016
SIBLING succumbs to obsession. With their latest AW16 collection, the designers dedicated their work to the Pop culture of the 1970s and 1980s. More precisely, two icons that have subverted in the worlds of music and art like few others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat. Eccentric in every way, Jones’ album covers inspire the collection’s color palette. Acid yellow and blood red shoot through traditional colors like royal blue and grey, making the viewer squint in a good way. Now, it doesn’t just take the color palette to make an honest dedication - which is why for the silhouettes, the label refers to Basquiat. Luxurious Dormeuil fabric jackets, baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets emphasize the loose shapes Basquiat is known for. Of course, his artwork is not to be left out and finds dedication in the SIBLING Fair Isle sweater. Going back to Jones, the Boxing Shorts make an allusion to her combat image. Completed with a more feminine, glittering Boxing Gown, the man is not only ready to rumble but also to revel. Now, if all of this is the result of an obsession, we might just get infected, too.
Prada SS16 Campaign
The Prada man is vulnerable – and in that lies hies truth. What sounds poetic can actually be decoded as the message behind Prada's Spring/Summer 16 campaign. The artistic concept distances itself from the image of over-stressed masculinity and focuses on more casual and relaxed aesthetics. Mirroring that are the campaign's three testimonials: actors Matthew Beard, Billy Howle and Logan Lerman. Shot by Craig McDean in a New York nightclub, the pictures convey authentic emotions and natural realness. Beard, Howle and Lerman appear caught-in-the-moment, seemingly lost in thought, but also keep an unbroken connection to the camera. Altogether the campaign is characterized by dark colors, Howles shimmering blue trousers being the exception. This mood goes along with straight cuts, minimalist tailoring and timeless accessories. Who said it's bad being vulnerable, after all?
Paul Smith for David Bowie: Blackstar
In celebration of the release of his latest album “Blackstar” on January 8th, David Bowie has cooperated with British brand Paul Smith for a set of limited T-Shirts. The designs feature the same logo as Bowie’s album, consisting of a prominent star in the middle, underlined by a row of smaller star fragments. Graphic designer Jonathan Barnbrook, who also collaborated with Smith and Bowie for the latter’s 2013 album “The Next Day”, has conceived the artwork concept. Available in black and white, the shirts are up on sale at paulsmith.co.uk from the day of the album release. Paul Smith was happy to renew the cooperation with Bowie after the two have been friends and collaborators for years. “I’ve known David Bowie for many years and have been fortunate to spend time with him in the past. I was delighted when he asked me to collaborate on the release of The Next Day in 2013 and equally delighted to work with him again on creating a T-shirt for the release of “Blackstar”, the designer commented. The album is Bowie’s 27th studio work.
JIL SANDER Spring/Summer 16 Advertising Campaign
Naturalness and simplicity have forever been trademarks of German brand JIL SANDER’s collections. Now, the new visuals for the Spring/Summer 2016 campaign were revealed – and they make clear that the fashion label once again sticks to its status quo. Shot by Willy Vanderperre in Paris, the campaign shows models Lexi Boling and Jonas Gloeer presenting a collection defined by purity. Womenswear designs allude to one of this year’s key colours, an almost pastel blue that is used in the design of wrap dresses, shirt blouses and handbags. Other than that, the collection stays rather un-summery, featuring dark colors like a deep blue in a classic menswear coat or even black. If now the thought of “boredom” creeps into your mind, JIL SANDER is ready to talk back: especially the new women’s designs surprise with shoulder cut-outs and restyled coat collars. They might stick to their status quo, but JIL SANDER does it just right. Never change a winning team, people say. We agree.
Givenchy Launches SS 16 Campaign
New York, I love you! This declaration has become the inspiration for Ricardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy creation. The Spring/Summer 2016 campaign is his personal “Love card” to the city. Shot by Mert & Marcus in, of course, Manhattan, the campaign indeed focuses on love and our personal relationships. Following the three main messages Love, Gang and Family, the imagery features group photos of both new faces and Givenchy veterans. Clustered under the Manhattan sky, they present signature black & white looks with timeless elements such as lace and pinstripes. And, to reference love again, each picture is decorated with a handwritten quote by singer Anohni: “I am a child on the river and love waits downstream, a waterfall to steal my breath and change my mind”. Ricardo, we love you, too.
Burberry Unveils New SS16 Campaign
Since Burberry premiered its festive campaign with emerging British talents earlier this year, it seems like time has flown by. The next campaign, Spring Summer 2016, is out and again features the promising talents of tomorrow. This time, only, they originate from the fashion scene. The latest designs are being premiered by future faces such as models Hayett Belarbi McCarthy, Misha Hart, May & Ruth Bell and many more. Shot by Mario Testino in London, the “cast” of this new campaign reflects the attitude of the new collection – energetic and vibrant. Featured in their first ever Snapchat campaign in October, the ready-to-wear pieces center around one new key item: the Burberry rucksack. For this new accessory, Christopher Bailey and his team dug deep into the archives and found inspiration the military section from the early 20th century. The new product is a lightweight carryall with a soft structure and multi-zip pocket added for functionality. Functionality is also the theme behind the new womenswear designs: “Functionregalia” links regalia elements with function clothing. The menswear collection follows a similar path: sartorial clothing is mixed with unconventional elements. All of this does not neglect the key Burberry items: trench coats, scarves, ponchos – it’s all there and frankly, it wouldn’t be Burberry without them. With each collection, the British brand proves once more that tradition in no way equals boredom: whether it’s materials, shapes or colors – Burberry’s reinvention is endless. If only time wouldn’t fly by so fast.
© Copyright Burberry/Testino
Review: Fashion Film Festival in Paris
Last week marked the 8th edition of fashion icon Diane Pernet’s festival “A Shaded View on Fashion Film”. The diversified event, abridged “ASVOFF”, was held for four days at Centre Pompidou in Paris and included a selection of 80 competitive short films. Guest of honor was fashion design legend Jean Paul Gaultier who was awarded a Carte Blanche and led the jury alongside Iris van Herpen, Colin McDowell and Nicolas Godin. Musical ensemble Chicks On Speed took the stage clad in colorful, sequined gowns for a powerful performance that sparked pleasure throughout the Centre. The festival featured again a variety of master class discussions, one focusing on film music with jury member Nicolas Godin and Nicolas Saada, who discussed their collaboration on the film “Taj Mahal.” Another special session was dedicated to the history of the Woolmark label. With new talents, big names and a collection of exciting visuals, the festival once again deserves an everlasting round of applause. Can’t wait for next year.
UNAIDS’ ProTESTHIV Turns One Tomorrow with an Exclusive Collection of Tees
Since its launch last year, the UNAIDS campaigners behind ProTESTHIV, have pledged to raise awareness of HIV testing on a global scale, in the hope of ultimately eradicating the deadly virus by 2030.
In marking World AIDS Day tomorrow (December 1) and as part of this campaign, a collection of five unique T-shirts will be released on sale. The contemporary artists FUTURA, André, Dustin Yellin, Scott Campbell and Aersoyn-Lex have exclusively designed the tops, visually tackling an internationally unavoidable subject.
ZOO has the exclusivity to give away a selection of tees. What to do? Be creative with one of our current covers and send your creation to email@example.com, or easily purchase the extremely limited edition collection in the concept stores Goodhood (London), STORM (Copenhagen), Colette (Paris), 290 Square Meters (Amsterdam) and Soto (Berlin), with all proceeds going to UNAIDS…At 50€ per tee that must be the definition of money well spent.
BOSS, Bauhaus, Bespoke
The last director of the Bauhaus movement once said, “The Bauhaus was no an institution. It was an idea. An idea as readily applied to clothing as to buildings – architecture for the body”.
It’s no surprise that BOSS Creative Director Jason Wu has had a long-standing admiration of the Bauhaus movement. Its rigorous geometric lines form the basis of many a post-2014 BOSS collection, after Wu has combined such Bauhaus principles with the BOSS DNA of exceptional precise menswear tailoring to create a new look for the modern woman.
Now Wu looks to this artistic movement again, and draws inspiration from the Bauhaus artwork of Josef Albers and Wassily Kandinsky in his new interpretation of the classic BOSS Bespoke handbag. With a dramatic yet simplistic aesthetic, the vibrant palette of the Modernist “intarsia” bag is patterned in various luxurious materials, such as suede, box-calf and embossed lizard and crocodile prints…if Wu’s time at BOSS could be summed up in one item, it would have to be this one.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-‘015
Debuting during the Tortona Design Week 2015 in Milan, Stone Island are bringing a retrospective exhibition of their innovative explorations into light refraction to New York. “Reflective Research ‘992-‘015” recounts the various textile manipulations that Carlo Rivetti’s label have experimented with since 1992, during an extensive study of safety workwear clothing. This involves an approach of using resins consisting of thousands of glass microspheres in coating textiles – meaning that when these fabrics hit the light in a dark setting, they completely light up.
The nostalgic exhibition includes a number of experimental processing techniques adopted by the brand on finished textiles and numerous items that never made it to production. The Stone Island Fall/Winter 2015/16 Collection will accompany it in a special presentation. Impressive.
“Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-'015’” is on exhibition at 41 Greene St, New York, until November 15, 2015.
Dior Homme Unveils New Parisian Store
Following their romanticized “Paris XVIE” campaign featuring Boyd Holbrook, Dior Homme have opened a brand new boutique for their menswear line at 24 Rue François 1er.
Across two floors, its beautiful interior design blends ideologies of modernism and elegance with tradition with pioneering innovation. Executed in a minimal palette of black leather and wood, Dior grey and white, the store provides a tranquil setting with impressive light reflective resin structures that bridge the gap between outside and in. Available in store will be all collections designed by Kris Van Assche as well as a space for custom orders.
The boutique even offers an exclusive made-to-measure, home-visit service by the label’s tailoring atelier…The Dior Homme’s shopping experience couldn’t get more enjoyable than this.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It seems as if Sarah Burton has relaxed somewhat in the current season at Alexander McQueen. The intimate collection showed Burton to get familiar with McQueen’s ancestral roots, in drawing her inspiration from the 17th-century Spitalfields silk weavers, who settled in the East End of London after fleeing religious persecution in France.
An elegant assortment of lace and ruffles formed a long, slim silhouette on models, who wore chandelier earrings with their hair loosely pinned back. Dramatic chained body jewelry added a stab of McQueen grit to the gracefully feminine collection.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There is a powerful message behind the latest Valentino Collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Their inarguably beautiful collection of bold prints and delicate patterns presents a fusion of cultures between Italy and Africa.
Braided hair, ethnic inspired jewelry and a palette of strong, vibrant colors appear in conjunction with ruched dresses, studded detailing and leather patchwork reminiscent of the Roman Empire.
No doubt people will question the ethical appropriation of the show… However, with the ongoing refugee crisis we hope that people will take something positive away from it and see the beauty of cross-culture, as Chiuri and Piccioli intended.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” has provided Raf Simons with a great source of inspiration with this collection for Christian Dior. The ultra feminine line, pleasing to dedicated Dior fans everywhere, was packed with white Victorian-style ruffles, shapes and necklines.
With neckscarves and brooches reading with “1947”, Simons has once again got nostalgic for the monumental New Look collection of that year and incorporated relaxed interpretations of classic, rigid lines into this collection. Adding a splash of contemporary androgyny Simons throws in some chunky knitwear and tailored suits.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Putting the pizzazz back in fashion, Alber Elbaz staged his latest collection for the label in front of a theatre setting. The show began with the Lanvin woman’s day wear, or some sleek reworks of tailored suits, before suddenly turning to what really matters to Elbaz; cocktail dresses and evening wear.
On came a parade of asymmetric gowns amidst a sequined snowball effect with numerous ruffles and satin bows. Next was a dramatic progression to bold Lanvin prints, lace edging, corsages and raincoats.
Overall this collection oozes the eclectic, 1930s glamour we have seen traces of in Paris Fashion week so far. What makes this one stand out is the elaborate playfulness of Elbaz, who is clearly just out for an absolutely fabulous time.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Announce New Womenswear Campaign
The values of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s label explore functionality within the urban context of street wear. Primarily concerned in protecting the curvatures and geometric angles of the human body, Saberi adopts innovative techniques when experimenting with fabrics, reimagining and rearranging in a destructured style. Previously only creating menswear lines, this campaign presents the growing prominence of the women’s collection for the brand in an exclusive preview on our ZOO Magazine site.
The Spring/Summer 2016 Collections combine aspects of two fundamentally different worlds, work wear versus deep-sea diving suits. Inspired by the construction of neoprene suits, Saberi reimagines some of the label’s most signature looks using organic materials in a wholly novel light. The sheer inquisitive nature of the luxury fashion brand, along with high quality tailoring and handcrafted passion, means for an inspiring collection composed of forward-thinking creativity.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection
Consolidating the label’s partnership with Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Angelo Ruggeri has named her as a main source of inspiration for his current, Bohemian chic Sergio Rossi collection.
In having a vintage moment with the Italian footwear brand, classic 1970s clogs are reworked into wedges that display intricate patterns contrasting the rich appearances of wood and cork. Ruggeri contrasts these chunky shapes with delicate stilettos and flats, whilst also creating a stylistic juxtaposition between day and night; eccentricity and minimalism. The line, exuding Summer and optimism, is realized in a mainly neutral palette with a multicolor camouflage effect adding excitement. With the adoption of strings, embroidered thread and crochet patterns in the unique designs, we are left with a beautiful collection embodying creativity and femininity.
Versace Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Refuting the retro looks we are seeing all over Milan at the moment, Donatella Versace is making a stand for her name and bringing back sexy into the world of fashion.
Her beautifully tailored army jackets and waistcoats that cinch into the waist with a Versace crested belt are teamed with chunky platform sandals and pulled up khaki socks to ooze sex appeal and her feeling of the moment; female empowerment.
Then come the snakeskin effect fabrics, the camo-meets-animal print, the sheer shirts and slit skirts. Donatella is defiant in her vision of Versace… And it proves to be iconic.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
In his third season at the label, Rodolfo Paglialunga has reworked the classic Jil Sander principles. Blazers are slashed, a coat deconstructed to embody an overlaying dress with the signature shirt cut and twisted into a new contemporary idea.
There is the odd flash of color, an asymmetric neckline and a vacant shoulder strap, with a buckle motif cropping up above the footwear and unexpectedly on silk dresses at the end of the show. The collection is undoubtedly minimalistic, as all Jil Sander should be.
Moschino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a construction site as the backdrop, an actual car wash that sprayed bubbles and a road-runway, no prizes for guessing the whacky theme of the current season with Jeremy Scott, “carwash couture”.
Models were walking puns in safety-cone colors and equally outlandish roadwork themed accessories. In referencing a Chanel skirt suit in neon safety tape, the collection proved to be undeniably smart thinking… And as the show went on the looks got bigger. One was literally a ball of feathers with a model somewhere beneath (this being the “carwash” part).
The only cautionary part to this tale however is the rampage of Scott-fans that will ensue when this collection hits the shops… It seems the hard-hats are necessary after all.
N°21 Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With this collection, Alessandro Dell’Acqua claims inspiration from 1920s Italian photographer/actress Tina Modotti and Corinne Day, a.k.a. the photographer responsible for some of the most iconic photos of the nineties.
An eighty-year gap means that the current N°21 line sees an avid mix of glamour and grunge. Models wearing jeweled headbands and ruffled chiffon are also wearing plain vests or t-shirts. Feathered slippers are worn over pulled-up socks. Florals, lace and python leather appear amongst deconstructed garments, shirts and dungarees… Dell’Acqua has created a clever mix of old and new and masculine and feminine with the current line of N°21.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Military-style coats with regimental studs, ribbon cording that reminds you of army uniforms and intricate lace made in the UK – the distinctively British fashion brand lives up to its namesake.
Throw in a classic trenchcoat and a personalized Cara Delevingne backpack and you couldn’t get “more” Burberry, though the clunky, chainlink sandals teamed with flowing slips and maxi dresses scream urban grunge.
Mix this with a range of sophisticated, heavy coats and you see Christopher Bailey’s move away from the idea of season-specific clothes with this collection. Making the show even more memorable, Bailey had Alison Moyet provide the soundtrack with the backing of a 32-piece orchesrtra.
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
With bold prints, latex and an unflinching red, black and white palette, it was go hard or go home for Gareth Pugh’s latest collection. Diverting away from last year’s ritualistic themes this season was all about flamboyance.
Masked models with choppy wigs wore plunging V-neck cuts and asymmetric shapes. Adorning his clothes with coins, this eccentric motif reappeared throughout the show and reminded onlookers that sometimes, you just have to go all out. At his LFW debut, this show has proven to be iconic for the designer.
“Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”
The Grand Palais was constructed in preparation for Paris’ spectacular Universal Exhibition in 1900. Around 48 millions visitors swarmed to the event, whilst George Vuitton created one of the most iconic attractions as part of his role in organizing the entire section concerning “Travel & Leather goods”. A majestic merry-go-round formed the platform for an array of pioneering and elegant Louis Vuitton luggage and bags.
As a celebration of over a century of Louis Vuitton, the Grand Palais will now host “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”. Retracing the label back to its 1854 origins, the collection consists of a remarkable overview of Louis Vuitton’s journey, paying homage to both it’s founders and current creators. Curator Olivier Saillard delved into the archives of the fashion brand to deliver “a fresh vision of our past, present and future”, according to Louis Vuitton’s CEO, Michael Burke.
The “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton” exhibition will run at the Grand Palais from December 4, 2015 until February 21, 2016.
Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Apparently first inspired by a girl wearing her boyfriend’s shirt, Andreas Melbostad has taken this idea and ran with it. Perhaps too far, as at times this collection can seem a little repetitive.
With hints of sportswear mixed into the cuts and footwear, Melbostad has created an urban line with that characteristically Diesel Black Gold biker effect...
Think oversized leather dungarees, embellished leather jackets and patchwork jeans. This is all realized in a mainly monochrome palette with the emergence of a beautiful deep blue towards the end of the show.
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
This sports-inspired line consisting of a neutral palette with the odd splash of vibrancy, suggests Wang has momentarily had his fill of all-black following last season. Mesh vests, crop tops, caps and sneakers make up the newly ex-Balenciaga director’s collection, oozing contemporary casual.
Departing from last season’s look of a subcultural, gothic-rave scene, with only studded sandals as a memento, Alexander Wang has chosen to shift his focus to urban New York streetwear for his Spring/Summer 2016 Collection.
Finished off with a nostalgic highlights reel of the past ten years of his career, along with a star studded front row, the shows reflects Wang as the great New York showman that he is.
Paul Smith Presents “A Suit To Travel In”
Paul Smith has been making suits since the 70s. As the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign proves, they know what they’re doing. The short film shows the British Olympic medalist Max Whitlock demonstrating the sheer flexibility of “A Suit To Travel In”, which is available for men and women. Without causing a single crease, Whitlock performs a sequence of impressive, dynamic gymnastic moves... If that can’t convince you then I don’t know what can.
Miu Miu Tells a Coming of Age Story with “Les 3 Boutons”
“It’s playing a game with reality,” Varda says. “The game is called cinema”.
Agnès Varda, a.k.a The “Grandmother of the Nouvelle Vague” and the first female winner of Cannes Film Festival’s honorary Palme d’Or, has directed the tenth installment of Miu Miu’s “Women’s Tales” celebrating contemporary femininity and empowerment.
“Les 3 Boutons” sees Varda toy with ideas of classic fairytales versus modern-day reality, avoiding the clichés so often associated with girlhood. Introducing Jasmine Thiré as a typical, 14-year-old farm girl,she takes a break from milking goats upon the arrival of her postman. Avoiding the easy Cinderella tale, the inquisitve Jasmine dons her school uniform and begins a journey of self-discovery. Along the way, she gradually loses three buttons. Each of these seems to mark some element of change in her life, which can be applied to all of us, irrespective of age.
Moncler Announce Opening of New Boutique in Costa Mesa, California
Moncler unveil latest store in the exclusive Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa. This luxury shopping centre is regarded as one of California’s most significant. The one-story boutique welcomes you to lose yourself in the world of Moncler, stocking the label’s mens and womenswear collections beside a huge array of accessories.
With the marble floors, French wooden paneling and two large store windows, designed by the Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, this new boutique is worth the visit. If unfortunately you can’t make it all the way to California, the highly established Moncler can also be found all over the world in cities and ski resorts.
Theory Unveil Latest Campaign with David Sims
Theory reunites with photographer David Sims in launching their AW 2015 campaign. Natalia Vodianova and Clement Chabernaud also return in promoting the brands’ new collection in a variety of chunky knits and woolen suits.
The New York based label have once again avoided cluttering their minimalistic, modern image and opted out of following the current trends. Since being appointed as co-creative directors of the fashion brand last season, Lisa Kulson and Ben Stubbington have stripped back Theorys’ image. Simplistic looks in luxurious, soft fabrics, the fashion brand has evolved to produce unique pieces that are simultaneously easy to wear, wardrobe staples. With their new image, Theory is all about transforming the ordinary into the unordinary. They have created a contemporary, urban uniform, with their reinvention of everyday, work attire.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Lily-Rose Depp for CHANEL
Following in the footsteps of her mother Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been made the new CHANEL ambassador and the face of its Pearl eyewear collection. The embodiment of youth, modernity and femininity, the young actress plays a baby doll surrounded by a lofty world of sweetness and style. Her appearance at the Haute Couture show signalled the start of Ms. Depp’s journey as CHANEL’s fashion darling. Discover the Pear eyewear collection campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld in September 2015.
Rihanna x Stance: Murder Rih Wrote
Stance has announced that Rihanna is joining the unique sock brand as its contributing Creative Director and named a Punk & Poet brand ambassador. In celebration of this new venture, Stance has released two limited edition styles called Murder Rih Wrote, one in an over-the-knee style and one as a crew sock. Each set is a true collector’s piece, with only 1500 sets produced. Rihanna’s complete Stance sock collection will be unveiled this coming fall, a collaboration that epitomizes the rule-breaking, carefree and self-defined essence of both Rihanna and Stance.
Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Joan Jett had a lovechild with Prince and their union was a match made in Armani Haute Couture heaven. The rebellious, confident air of the 80’s inspired collection was undeniable. There were short raven-haired wigs, boldly colored ombre sequin getups, bulky geometric accessories and puffy but glamorous feather creations. Nevertheless, the elegance seethed out of every garment, its glamour needing no heel. The elevated 80’s looks were however strengthened by the choice of flat footwear, allowing for the eyes to focus wholeheartedly on the beautiful shimmer of the Privé wonder.
Miu Miu Club and the 2016 Croisière collection during Paris Fashion Week
In celebration of the 2016 Croisière collection and the fashion house’s first fragrance, Miu Miu set the AMO to create a one of a kind pop-up club in the French capital. Inspired by the cabarets of Les Folies Bergères and the jazz-filled streets of Montmartre, the space was a true feast for those longing for the seductive Paris nightlife. Alongside the collection showcase, the event was a full-bodied celebration of Parisian culture, including a cocktail gathering, exclusive dinner and musical performances by several DJs including Seth Troxler and Frederic Sanches who ensured the party was fit for its grand Paris venue. The resort collection echoed the carefree, dark side of the Miu Miu venue, with curiously shaped tops and punkish prints scattered throughout. The silhouette was a mashup of several decades it seems – from 60s minis to 20s drop-waist dresses. It was as if all of Paris’ nightlife ghosts had come alive to celebrate again.
Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
It was a dark and twisted fairy wonderland. Pastel colored fabrics draped beautifully and effortlessly around ethereal models were paired with shiny go go-dancer platforms, dark eye makeup and tousled ‘morning after’ locks. The spectacle of the Atelier Versace show was striking – thousands of glass-encased orchids lined the runway, headlining models included Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone and Sasha Pivovarova and the crowd was not disappointed. Donatella received a standing ovation at the end of the mystical fairy-gone-bad couture showcase. The gowns were mesmerizing and looked to be taken straight out of the Grimms’ original fairy tales – gritty and fascinating as they are.
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Bags were flung across shoulders attached to a literal chain – imitating a heaviness of memory and past. Indeed, Simons’ influences were perhaps more obvious than not, with headscarves cloaked around the models’ faces and that patterned beige coat that seemingly every single elderly woman ever depicted onscreen is in possession of. The chained bags might be symbolic of these vestiges of the past, clinging onto the next generation – here, most explicitly, through clothing. Raf Simons’ collection is perhaps steeped in somewhat heavy conceptualism, but it’s also totally cool.
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
Versace FW 2015 Campaign
Versace’s color-blocked playground stars models Karlie Kloss, Caroline Trentini and Lexi Boling as the fashion house’s campaign protagonists. Championing the strong sophistication of the Versace essence, primary colors dominate and provoke. Introducing the #GREEK motif, Donatella Versace’s artistic direction steers the iconic brand towards a remixed, modernized play on the mod-dress.
The striking campaign is the result of the photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who enhanced Donatella’s vision of the woman unfazed and empowered by boldness through color and cut.
For more go to
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
The New G-SHOCK MRG-G1000
For more than 30 years, G-SHOCK wares have ascended upon the time-telling industry with impact due to its Japanese-made (Made in Japan) engineering. G-shock was born from a desire to create timepieces of enduring quality. The robust double-coated Titanium housings envelop the newest in G-shock developed technology - creating a near indestructable timepiece.
The latest addition to the G-SHOCK MR-G flagship series is the MRG-G1000. Shock-resistant and stocked with a hybrid GPS and Radio controlled timekeeping system, the independent solared powerded MRG combines affinity for technological utility with a classically strong aesthetic. Made from Titanium with a diamond-like coating which protects the MRG-G1000, the watch is strengthened by a face of sapphire glass, making the piece both anti-reflective and scratch resistant.
Replay Spring/Summer 2016 in Mykonos
Ringing in the summer season on the Greek island of Mykonos, Replay hosted about 700 guests for the launch of their 2016 SS collection. Treated to a sun-filled show with models such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bar Rafaeli and Sara Sampaio, the Nammos Beach Club set the stage for Replay’s theme ‘Destroyed Denim’.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
America’s Cup x Louis Vuitton
With the announcement of its renewed commitment to the ‘holy grail’ of sailing, Louis Vuitton is confirming its support of the sport by becoming the title partner of the America’s Cup World Series. Over time, the collaborations between America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton have grown into a fully-fledged partnership. Since 1983, the fashion house has worked with this bastion of adventure and sportsmanship. As the presenting partner of the 35th America’s Cup Match, Louis Vuitton will contribute their sense of timeless luxury to the Cup Qualifiers and Challenger Playoffs in 2016 and 2017 respectively, as well as present for the Cup Match in Bermuda in 2017.
The fashion house will have a visible presence in the tournament – on land, in the water and through live and online broadcasts. Dating back to 1851, the America’s Cup trophy is the oldest in international sport and an undeniable symbol of excellence. The Cup’s trophy travels encased in trademark Louis Vuitton style – their custom monogrammed case. Who better to transport this iconic trophy than one of the most recognizable in designer travel ware than Louis Vuitton! The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series 2015 consists of a total of three events, kicking off in July in Portsmouth (UK), before travelling to Gothenburg (Sweden) and finally Bermuda.
Filippa K: Sustainability Is The Guide To Growth
Filippa K’s newly launched online platform finally communicates their long-term efforts towards sustainability in fashion.
Founded in 1993 by Filippa Knutsson and Patrik Kihlborg, their vision “Fashion where sustainability is the guide to growth” is channeled through a wardrobe consisting of stripped-down, simplistic designs, essential pieces. Garments of clean design and high quality seem intrinsic to the Scandinavian philosophy, where the flexibility of designs easily transition from season to season and year to year. Durability and a timeless quality is key in this configuration, where style not necessarily opposes sustainability.
Inspired by ecosystems and planetary boundaries, the company is devoted to the reduction of the textile industry’s environmental and social footprints. Their choice of materials and production practices reflect an acute awareness of the long and exhaustive supply chain, in an attempt to produce less of what is needed and deliver long-lasting garments. Their recently launched products “front runners” are completely recyclable in the fabric tencel (wood), including the corozo nut as buttons.
We want to be part of the solution rather than add to the problem.
This philosophy is based on two main concepts: The Curated Wardrobe and Circular Design. A curated wardrobe is simple rather than excessive, and should be created to last over time – the ecosystems and its inherent processes of reuse in turn inspire the circular design concept.
To read more about Filippa K’s Sustainable philosophy, visit their website at:
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
Antony Morato Celebrates Italian Tradition
As a typically Italian brand, Antony Morato has shown that it is all about culture, style and the passion for beauty. To celebrate Italian tradition and their heritage, the brand has decided to become a part of the restoration of The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, an Italian classic. This elegant masterpiece stands for what Antony Morato strands for, and continues to inspire us. The film was directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1970 and won an Academy Award in 1972.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Hermès as Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision on Hermès for the first time with the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Even though the entire show was essentially Hermès, Vanhee-Cybulski managed to show her own signature as well.
Since Hermès is well known for their leather, she has chosen to put some extra focus on this natural material for next season. The cuts of the garments are straight and give a minimalist vibe. All of this is enhancing the idea behind Hermès luxury; modest luxury with the highest quality, which is made for the wearer to enjoy.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
J.W. Anderson is showing us something we have never seen him do before. He is introducing a new way of layering, with green, black and white corduroy pants under skirts and dresses. Anderson’s inspiration is visible in every part of the collection. Exaggerated shoulders, bright colors, draped velvet, shiny metallic and large plastic rings that accentuate the waist all reflect the early eighties.
Ankle length leather coats in light pink and dark brown and knee-high boots with draping on the top stood out the most during his show.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
Valentino New York Flagship Celebration
On 10 December, 2014, the House of Valentino will celebrate the recent opening of its new Fifth Avenue flagship store. The evening will see the presentation of an exclusive Haute Couture capsule collection, created especially for the event by Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The magnificent 20,000 square foot store, conceptualised by the brand’s Creative Directors in collaboration with ‘David Chipperfield Architects’, houses women’s ready-to-wear and accessories as well as the complete men’s collection. A special area is dedicated to Denim Made to Measure.
Opened in August 2014, the Fifth Avenue location is the second Valentino boutique in the Unites States to carry the men’s offering.
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
WUNDERKIND Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Adopting a sophisticated aesthetic with an eccentric edge, the WUNDERKIND Fall/ Winter 2014 campaign interprets the quirky yet cool style of the collection.
Depicting model Sara Sperling against an intriguing painting filled artistic studio backdrop, the campaign is exciting yet chic as it exhibits a lively and elegant theme.
Describing Sara Sperling’s role in the campaign, art director Wolfgang Joop declares "In the chaos between arrival and departure she retains her sovereignty. She moves effortlessly between opulence and nonchalance and embodies the strong and confident woman WUNDERKIND stands for."
Akris Pre Fall 2014
A bold colour palette and slick silhouettes composed the Akris Pre Fall 2014 collection with distinct prints, chic suits and shapely jackets.
Inspired by the 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde, the collection fuses stylish sophistication with cool elegance to create a slick and sleek amalgamation. High waist trousers paired with smart shirts, nude heels and berets exuded cultivated style while sharp leather jackets added a contemporary aesthetic.
Creative director Albert Kriemler embodied the iconic style of actress Faye Dunaway through red, white and black prints producing a 'sleek glamour' style and a strong disposition.
Sissi Goetze at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Menswear has been given more and more of a platform at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. One of the stand-out designers in this respect is Sissi Goetze. Her SS15 showcase is marked by muted colors, structured menswear cuts and an array of prints. Hibiscus prints in rusty shades of brown brought intrigue to tailored slacks. Goetze matched those with crisp white button downs and gray shirts. Sartorial sportiness shone through in her mix of relaxed jackets and knee length shorts– the perfect outfit for the grown-up urban man.
On the upper body, Goetze sees men wear layers upon layers for SS15, adding surprising combinations to the usually bland summer uniform. Her entire collection is a continuation of seasons past, as the designer does not believe in the quick fluctuation of fashion, but rather in a stylish and sustainable wardrobe. Her pieces for SS15 are exactly those coveted items one has to have in his closet for season to come.
Sandro Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Capturing "two young artists in their element" the Sandro Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign epitomizes dark and stylish elegance.
Starring model Edie Campaign in her third collaboration with Sandro, the womenswear is chic and casual yet sophisticated. The menswear, modelled by Elliot Vulliod comprises of sleek and laid back proportions and silhouettes, combining the relaxed with the cosmopolitan.
The campaign, shot by photographer Karim Sadli will appear in the September issues of magazines.
Laurèl at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Elisabeth Schwaiger was obviously in the mood for a sun-downer when designing Laurèl's SS15 collection. Tropical prints, tie-dye, fringe, crochet and ethno appliqué are the codes by which the quintessential hippie look goes by, and strutted down the runway here. In tried and tested Laurèl fashion, designs didn't go overboard, making sure that the holiday vibe may carry over to the office during the glimmering summer months. Pant suits, leather pants and jumpers for work, mini and maxi dresses as well as kaftans for play are the staples of this SS15 showcase. Vibrant turquoise, azure and grass green furthered the summer holiday feel of Schwaiger's versatile and wearable SS15 collection.
Perret Schaad at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
It's already been Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad's 10th collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. For their SS15 presentation, the dynamic duo drew inspiration from the French Riviera. The contrast of down-to-earth Southern France and its exciting Mediterranean charm resulted in pieces that are perfect for a day at the Côte d’Azur. The label interpreted SS15's trend color blue in combination with light hues. Surprising details such as outside stitching and laser-cut details add to the collection's modern vibe, and thereby turn the otherwise tedious rush hour during summer time into an imaginary stroll down the Corniche.
Patrick Mohr x Reebok Classics
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Sportswear brand Reebok teamed up with designer Patrick Mohr to create an incredible collaboration that is testament to the designer's Goth aesthetic and the sportswear giant’s core values. Renowned Reebok styles such as the Ex-O-Fit Hi and the Womens Freestyle Hi - two classic high-tops - were designed by Mohr unison with his dazing style. Luxe materials and textures from calfskin to ostrich leg and salmon skin with a little rock star attitude in the form of studs mark the, collaboration. Mohr's colors of choice here are ubiquitous black and loud purple. The collection collaboration will be available exclusively at Solebox, Berlin, and online.
BRACHMANN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
It’s a minimalist attitude that the BRACHMANN Spring/Summer 2015 collection conveys. Walter Gropius and the Bauhaus style served as an inspiration for the architectural collection. Classic suits, well-fitted coats and shirts, in different shades of grey, dark blue, black, brown and bordeaux are versatile and work in any combination with the knee long shorts, guaranteeing a simple, but smooth look. Polo shirts with short or rolled up sleeves add a casual and relaxed feel. An interesting detail are the cut off collars, that make for a twist in the traditional menswear, such as the pleats at the back of trousers that make their front look wider.
Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2014
Exploring and contrasting shapes, patterns and textures, the Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal collection Fall 2014 Haute Couture show embodied elegant eccentricity. Models wore transparent polka dot decorated face masks as they walked the runway in heavily patterned shirts, asymmetrically cut dresses and sheer polka dot skirts. Unique and striking patterned patchwork squares made up floor length straight dresses and knee length, flat white boots and long, above the elbow white gloves created an air of elegance.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2014
Presenting an amalgamation of embellishments, texture and patterns, the CHANEL Fall 2014 Haute Couture show fused classic CHANEL sharp silhouettes with intricate details, producing an emaculate aesthetic. Sandals with ballet style ribbons were the footwear of choice, providing an easy way to walk in the glitter decorated suits, well - tailored, refined coats and exquisitely embroidered dresses. Stunning jewels adorned elegant sweaters and dresses and exploratory pieces were displayed through intriguing embellishments and innovative shapes.
PHILIPP PLEIN Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Entitled 'My American Dream', the PHILIPP PLEIN Fall/Winter 2014 campaign presents the dynamic creations exhibited in his Fall/Winter 2014 Milan fashion show.
A cowgirl style fused with rock and roll influences formulated the Milan show with outfits heavily embellished with gold studs, stylish all black leather pieces, extravagant fur and bold glitter.
Incorporating footage from the show including images shot live during the event as well as backstage, the campaign captures the vivacious spirit of the collection and translates the thrill of the show onto captivating still images.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an chic mix of monochrome, the Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2015 Menswear collection provided a contemporary and casual compilation. Relaxed silhouettes accompanied by loose material resulted in a nonchalant look whilst long, sleek blazers exhibited refinement. The clothing was athletic yet sophisticated with easy going styling and a simplistic colour palette adding to the laid back ambience.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring models Iselin Steiro and Rogier Bosschaart, the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014 campaign epitomizes minimalism with entirely black and white images shot against a simplistic and subtle background.
Emulating the refined sophistication key to the Jil Sander aesthetic, the campaign, shot by photographer Karim Sadli captures effective lighting and the sharp silhouettes of the garments next to a plain backdrop allowing the clothes to speak for themselves.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Jean-François José
Adhering to a demure colour palette of light gray and beige with specks of orange, navy blue and mustard yellow, the Hermès Spring 2015 Menswear collection was causal and cool, consisting of soft cardigans, casual jackets and slim trousers. Signature, distinct Hermès prints and patterns were decorated onto shorts, trousers and skirts and worn with slip on sandals and sneakers. Brightly coloured neck scarfs added vividness into the collection and croc jackets provided nonchalant luxury.
Zegna Couture by Stefano Pilati at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Applying a modern aesthetic to formal menswear, Stefano Pilati's Spring 2015 collection for Zegna Couture incorporated relaxed lines with sleek tailoring to produce a refreshingly contemporary collection. Loose fitting garments were worn with chic brogues and sneakers and colourful shirts were styled with kerchiefs and structured blazers, resulting in a striking and classy amalgamation.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Rock and roll became colorful, bold and exciting at the Haider Ackermann Spring 2015 Menswear show. It was grungy, edgy and overlylayered whilst remaining sleek and refined. Oversized scarfs were effortlessly wrapped around necks and experimental fabrics including patent black, gold velvet and patterned silk were used. Outfits were effectively created, giving a thrown together look and almost over styled yet undeniably chic. Not following rules, Ackermann mismatched patterns and prints in an impressive amalgamation.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Producing a polished, rock and roll aesthetic, the Diesel Black Gold Spring 2015 Menswear show cleaned up an edgy and rugged style by applying a skinny design to black jeans, relaxed t - shirts and sharp blazers. Exquisite and artistic printed black leather motorcycle jackets served as statement pieces and were worn with skinny trousers and leather boots. Zip up turtle necks oozed sophistication and zip decorated jeans provided a distinct edge.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Colour was effectively clashed and blocked at the Fendi 2015 Menswear show. Sharp and slick with a quirky edge, the collection kept a slick and refined silhouette whilst experimenting with colour, shape and texture. Stone washed denim was worn with beige, neon brights were mismatched with demure colours and black mesh was used on gilet's and worn over blazers. The combination was simple yet exciting and fused styles in a creative amalgamation.
Tod's at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Applying a laiback approach to classic menswear, the Tod's 2015 Menswear show was casual, clean and cool. Luxurious, dark navy blue served as a key colour and was incorporated onto sleek suits worn with elegant, leather loafers. Amongst the sophistication, a more casual aesthetic was offered through blue and white jeans. Suede was a popular material, providing the fabric for soft blazers and jeans. Detaching itself from the traditional and conservative, the collection provided something refreshing and contemporary without loosing the refinement.
Costume National at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Refined and sophisticated in a demure and bright colour palette was showcased at the Costume National runway during men’s fashion week in Milan. The collection consisted of an array of suits ranging from all patent leather pieces to bold orange and purple to pin stripes. Exuding laid back rock and roll, the clothing was effortlessly slick; neckerchiefs and tightly fitted trousers oozed cultivated style while the strikingly bright purples, oranges and blues adhered to a youthful and loud aesthetic.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A casual take on the traditional suit was presented at the Trussardi showcase. Classic blazers were replaced by cool bomber jackets, pinstripe suits were paired with leather flat form sandals and modern and stylish double denim was embraced. Materials and patterns were experimented with; patent black leather was used on loose fitting trousers and bold black, red and white brushstroke prints were emblazoned onto straight trousers. The outcome was contemporary yet cultivated.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adopting tribal prints and patterns, the Missoni Spring 2015 menswear collection presented a cool and casual aesthetic. Colours were clashed and knitted materials were decorated with colourful and intriguing stripes. Bare chested models walked down the runway clothed in patterned gilets, shorts and sandals and striped, matching blazers and trousers were worn with relaxed, soft cream brogues. The collection exhibited a vibrant and lively way to sport casualwear.
Brioni opens Flagship in Milan
Italian luxury menswear couture house Brioni has opened their largest Flagship in Milan located in the city’s luxury shopping area. Conceived by Creative Director Brendan Mullane, the 1,200 square meter flagship spans across three floors and comprises of formalwear, leisurewear, accessories, eyewear, textiles and footwear.
Sophisticated and refined, the store is a completely renovated historical palazzo and contains plenty of natural light with the entrance opening into a large foyer. The first floor houses leisurewear and the second floor hosts an expansive VIP room where visitors can find time to relax. Six full-time tailors will be present in the flagship, offering an exclusive service to clients and guaranteeing an exquisite experience. Walls, ceilings, floors, tables and chairs are upholstered in a luxurious dark blue suit fabric and a select choice of prized materials are in elegant beiges, taupes and browns.
With the flagship opening on June 19th 2014, the inauguration will take place on Saturday 21st and consist of a structural light installation in collaboration with Greek artist Michael Anastassiade entitled ‘Blue Hour’. The installation will be displayed until July 12th.
London Collections: Men Day 1
As London Fashion Week’s quieter, calmer and all together more laid back alternative, London Collections: Men commenced with catwalks from Lou Dalton, Lee Roach and Agi & Sam and presentations from Jonathan Saunders, Nicholas Kirkwood and DKNY MEN.
Centered at the prestigious Hospital Club in Covent Garden, the event hosted established as well as upcoming menswear design talent in an exciting combination of runways, showcases and parties. Luxury mens fashion designer Lou Dalton presented a well-tailored and sleek collection with a contemporary and youthful twist at one of the first catwalks of the day. In a cool and summery colour palette of bright whites, powder pinks, blue and silver, the collection comprised of Dalton’s signature attention to detail on simple yet distinct patterns and shapes.
An expansion on his usual minimalism was showcased at the Lee Roach show. Roach offered a relaxed and modish alternative to the traditional suit by pairing logo printed t – shirts with matching blazers and straight trousers and included mesh vests and military references through khaki and circle and stripe emblems. The simple colours contrasted with the experimental layering to produce a sleek yet effortlessly cool aesthetic.
Scottish born designer Jonathan Saunders presented a chic and bright collection incorporating simplistic patterns and clean designs in a distinctive array of colours. As an edgy yet sleek amalgamation of stripes, colour blocking and layering, the collection presented electrifyingly bright yellows accompanied by deep cool blues and galactic silvers. Smart and edgy metallic suits and light, breathable jackets were the standouts amongst sharp and definitive ensembles.
Wrapping up the catwalks of the day, Agi & Sam fused masculinity with femininity in an exciting blend of shapely silhouettes, loose fitting garments and intriguing patterns printed onto two pieces and jackets. Throwing tradition out of the window, the innovative design duo applied an original style pairing knee length socks with sandals, smart pleated trousers and original prints resulting in a strong yet relaxed outcome.
Day one did not disappoint and launched another year of exhilarating Mens fashion.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Under the artistic direction of Jason Wu, the BOSS Fall/ Winter 2014 campaign captures sophistication and refinement for both women and men.
Establishing a contemporary look for the BOSS brand, the campaign styled by Joe McKenna and shot by Inez and Vinoodh presents BOSS’s traditional tailoring in a modern fashion. The face of the womenswear, model Edie Campbell embodies a strong, powerful femininity in the campaign while actor Scott Eastwood is formal yet modern in BOSS’s timeless and cosmopolitan menswear.
As his first campaign for BOSS, Jason Wu applied a “a fresh, different approach" and expresses how the campaign “not only shows the BOSS clothes, but evokes the BOSS lifestyle."
The dreamlike dimension of PHILIPP PLEIN
PHILIPP PLEIN’s pre fall 2014 collection fuses dreamlike patterns with multicolour photographic collages to create unique designs that are illustrated onto biker jackets, dresses, bags and shoes.
Depicting a dreamy vision, the prints comprise of the jaws of a tiger, a surreal Taj Mahal, images of elephants in the desert and jewelled panthers. Detailed and creative, the kaleidoscopic prints are both intriguing and strikingly stylish, incorporating architecture, nature and far away destinations in a whimsical yet vivid amalgamation.
Prada opens up a new store in Vienna
Created inside a prestigious and historical building, the new Prada store in Vienna hosts women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories and shoe collections.
Black and white-chequered marble floor, green fabric- clad walls and high furniture decorates the 1430 square-metre store that is extended over two floors. The chic new space designed by architect Roberto Baciocchi is both elegant and feminine and provides a leisurely and luxurious shopping experience.
With large, enticing windows on the outside and a sleek, immaculate design on the inside, the exquisite new store imitates Prada’s modern aesthetic and slick style. The store opened on 19th May 2014
Bally Fall/Winter 2014
Casual sophistication is at the core of Bally’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection with classic lines and sharp tailoring being combined with laidback yet edgy styling.
The womenswear is both formal and easy-going comprising of pin striped flared suit trousers paired with casual trainers and tailored overcoats, beanies and thick turtle neck sweaters. Ideal for the workplace, the long body fitting pencil skirts and shirts are perfect for the cosmopolitan woman and the cool, leather biker jackets add a necessary hip aesthetic.
With an impressive range of accessories, the latest Bally collection provides endless ways to add sleek vibrancy to your wardrobe. From croc and snakeskin print bags to a range of ankle boots, low heels, brogues and knee length boots in a variety of colours, the accessories effortlessly compliment the clothing.
Equally classy, the menswear offers a variety of refined clothing ranging from dapper coats, suit trousers and blazers to dynamic multi coloured trainers, thick leather fur lined biker jackets and oversize leather backpacks.
The collection fuses elegance with edginess, making it easy for Bally to stylishly transport us into the Fall/Winter season.
Sisley Store in Mitte
Depicting youth and freedom, the new Sisley concept store opened in Mitte, Berlin on 27th February 2014.
Located in the prestigious Mitte district in the centre of Berlin, the store allows visitors to have a unique and stimulating shopping experience as the store displays “its own distinctive nature and its own unique features”. The store’s layout is inspired by the film The Dreamers by Bernardo Bertolucci and translates this into a dreamlike, sophisticated and youthful décor.
Inside this new concept, visitors will find themselves enter an intriguing atmosphere consisting of peeled walls, black and white chequer patterned floors and cognac chandeliers. Fusing the sleek with the bohemian, the store displays chic body hugging, colour-block dresses, stylish trench coats and modernist jumpsuits as well as artistic maxi skirts, long muslin dresses and silk tops.
Situated at 12 Neue Schönauser Strasse, the exciting new store embodies the brands playful yet chic aesthetic and transforms shopping into an interactive, sensorial experience.
The GUESS Hotel Pool Party @ Coachella
Fun California based music festival Coachella took place from the 11th April to the 13th and hosted an eclectic mix of live performances from artists such as Disclosure, Pharrell, Lana Del Rey, Skrillex and MGMT.
Amongst this exciting musical sphere, all-American fashion brand GUESS presented the GUESS Hotel Pool Party spread over two days and consisting of cocktails by the pool, a GUESS ping pong table and the sounds of DJ’s Lindsay Luv, Jamieson Hill and Dexter Love. Celebrities enjoying the care-free summer atmosphere included Hannah Simone, Whitney Port and actor Ryan Kwanten.
On day two of the party, the grand opening of the annual GUESS Hotel was opened by music from musician Alex Merrell dressed in Marciano and offered delicious food and tasty drinks as well as performances by Izzy Lawrence and Whitney Fierce. Celebrating the early Summer with GUESS at Coachella, the party was enjoyed by Josh Henderson, Coachella headlining band Arcade Fire and Jamie Chung.
G-Star Raw Opens First Women's Store in Germany
Denim specialist fashion brand G – Star Raw have created a unique retail concept, G – Star Women, a new store entirely dedicated to womenswear on Schäfflerstrasse in Munich, Germany. Situated over 225 m2, the impressive and specially designed store has a minimalist aesthetic and the ground floor consists exclusively of denim in various fits and styles to ensure that every woman is able to find her “perfect piece”.
On the second floor, customers are invited to seek stylish accompaniments to their perfectly fitted jeans in a “comfortable” and “relaxed” carefully designed fitting zone. Aiming to exemplify “G-Star design philosophies in product engineering and denim craftsmanship”, the Munich store consists of appealing attributes including a striking full height mirror and the aforementioned staircase to enhance the in store shopping experience and environment for the female consumer.
The female only store which is located in the bustling city center opens on 16th April 2014 and aims to utilize the notable G –Star DNA to provide a tailored, simple and stylish shopping experience for women.
Karl Lagerfeld London boutique opening
Fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld has finally got around to cementing his iconic fashion creations in a new territory. The store, which exhibits a largely black and white minimal aesthetic is a homage to the designer with his famous head motif decorated onto an array of items and apparel has opened in London’s uber cool and classy Regent Street.
With classic Lagerfeld pieces available such as black sunglasses, fingerless gloves and a stiff white collar, the new flagship epitomises Karl’s undeniable influence and power in the fashion industry and innovative approach to store design. The just opened store is his biggest outlet in Europe and will contain interactive photo booths allowing shoppers to take pictures of themselves while trying on clothes, it will also have a digital guest book and iPad mini’s displaying full collections.
It seems that the store not only offers the latest Lagerfeld creations but an opportunity to buy into the designer’s archetypal image with iPhone cases, toy dolls and pillows all with Karl’s famous face planted onto them. Upon opening, Lagerfeld arrived in London and celebrated the flagships’ launch with British fashion model and friend Cara Delevingne. We expect this fuse of mainstream fashion and high end luxury to be an instant hit.
Hogan Spring / Summer 2014
Spring has indeed sprung and with Hogan’s Spring Summer 2014 collection being shot in the picturesque and romantic city of Venice it has sprung particularly attractively this year. The uber casual and effortlessly chic collection comprises of light, fitted jackets, jeans and sneakers for laidback daywear and sexy heeled sandals, black leather and metallic clutches to bring on the night.
All modelled by the stunning Constance Jablonski who describes the clothes as “a selection of easy-chic pieces” in a diary style memoir written to support the campaign, the pieces depict an ideal spring holiday and combine comfort with style. In her memoir Jablonski illustrates her fast paced life full of travel and inspiration and always carries a compilation of “little jackets, skinny pants and my Hogan H222 that stay with me 24 hours a day”.
The menswear collection is modelled by Fifty Shades of Grey actor Jamie Dornan and continues in the theme of cool and easy, relaxing on a boat day attire to sleek, sophisticated yet relaxed pieces for the night. Consisting of slim fitting trousers, light blazers and stylish brogues, the collection provides clothing that is slick, effortlessly cool and embodies the carefree spirit of spring.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Vivienne Westwood invited us into her vivid imagination and world of eclectic inspirations during her FW14 show. Referencing a capacious variety of influences, styles and cultures, the collection mismatched colours and patterns, exhibited bizarre blue face paint and clashed textures. We were given extravagance through fluffy, shapely, large overcoats and exaggerated top hats, it was spectacular! Possibly the most inventive designs came from the sheer, shoulder padded, turtle neck wedding dress and martial arts style wrap jacket paired with loose fitting trousers, boots and Red war face paint. Vivienne gathered her vast sources of influencers and compiled into a outlandish yet amazing collection.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
60s style colour combinations and dress silhouettes transcended into sheer bohemian floral gowns at the Valentino FW14 show showcased at Paris fashion week. Colour combined metallics paired with sparkly strappy heels transformed the glamour into a wearable yet fashionable night look and exquisitely printed fur overcoats and capes represented the opulent yet hip theme of the collection.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
All of the drama and theatrics you could wish for were at Yohji Yamamoto’s fairy-tale esque FW14 show. Bright and flamboyant makeup was accompanied by extremely stylistic hairstyles and duvet like large black overcoats whilst bright and vibrant graphics were painted onto all black pieces. These experimental and unique graphic designs continued with large florals and heavily layered black pieces added a lavish sophistication and weighed down the exaggerated theme of the show. It exposed us to a more bizarre and outlandish winter wardrobe.
KENZO at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Varying patterns and colours clashed at KENZO FW14. A creative approach to layering was seen through corsets worn over tops, wide structured skirts worn over patterned suits and straight short skirts worn over trousers. Classic geometric Kenzo prints were worn alongside inventive padded black suits and a long padded black coat. The collection was wearable whilst adding a certain energy to a wardrobe.
Isabel Marant at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Isabel Marant FW14 show felt comfortable yet stylish and chic. The clothes consisted of different shades of army green, contrasted with the laidback, largely loose fitting material with a strong, militant power. Relaxed knits were paired with structured overcoats to add a sleek sharpness and a hint of dark glitter thrown onto jackets, skirts and tops gave a certain and very much needed perzaz. The show illustrated a relaxed army girl while still adhering to a high fashion look.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A bright pop of colour provided an exciting accompaniment to a fall/winter aesthetic during Dries van Noten’s Paris fashion week show. Clashing geometric patterns highlighted the designer’s innovative approach to using prints and sportswear references alongside bright floral prints provided a diverse winter wardrobe. Transcending into a darker colour palette, the show concluded with luxe metallic striped pieces, luscious black fur and space girl style sparkling silver.
Day 1: Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Delicate pastels, structured silhouettes and snakeskin shoes were at the forefront of the Gucci FW ’14 show during Milan Fashion Week. The show displayed an array of uniquely cut dresses and luxurious fur coats in a colour palette that transcended from playful pastels to deep burgundies. Metallic silver details embellished deep black dresses and magnificent knee high snakeskin print patent boots.
Day 6: Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glitzy glamour met sleek style at the Dsquared² FW ‘14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week. Short dresses were worn with extravagant overcoats to create drama and floor length, glamorous dresses were exaggerated with fur jackets and long, embellished capes. 1960’s dress silhouettes were referenced through short, buttoned up mini dresses and ostentatiousness was epitomised through heavy embellishments.
Philipp Plein Underwear
Shortly after Philipp Plein's cowboys pranced down the runway at the Fall/Winter 2014 show in Milan, the Swiss Maison is delight to present it‘s men‘s underwear debut. Embodying the essence of beauty, innovation, fun and sensuality, the collection consists of sporty boxers, briefs and shorts made of comfortable jersey. And of course, the new campaign features images by Steven Klein. In a luxury 'Fight Club', he transforms his protagonists into wild wrestling bad boys, when the animal instinct and lust for life emerges. Co-existing to the images, a video completes the thought of body-to-body struggle: it's night, when two shirtless boys walk into a deli and escape back into a limousine. Superimposed by haunting fighting sequences, the video encapsulates the campaign's spirit: Battle with all your forces!
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
Not far away from the Jean Paul Gaultier headquarters, at 'Le Comédia' -an old Parisian theater- the French couturier's show took part on wednesday night. The theatrical spectacle was inspired by cabaret and French Revue from the twenties and thirties. And a glamorous Burlesque-themed performance started, when it‘s showgirls flounced down the runway wearing feathered and butterfly-shaped headpieces.
Black satin costumes were followed by multi-coloured tight wasp waists, corsets and net-laced dresses made of semi-transparent light fabrics. As a big surprise Dita Von Teese closed the show.
Tillmann Lauterbach at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Tillmann Lauterbach's latest collection was called “Neo-Dada” and that resulted in a more losely way of tailoring and influences from the street. The rather monochromatic collection was dynamic in it's play with formal and informal and different lengths in the same silhouette. Colorful touches like orange gloves and tips of shoes, together with sporty influences made the show youthful, but the fabrics and techniques made sure the collection remained refined. Best results of these clashes were the tweed bomber, layered pants and roomy, hooded sweaters.
Paul Smith at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Sir Paul Smith had music on his mind while designing the fall/winter 2014 collection for men. Two currents of recent music history seemed to take the upper hand: in one corner was new wave and in the other psychedelica. The first manifested itself with big coats, knitted jumpers and slim pants while the second explained the bohemian prints, nonchalant fits and smock tops. To cover up next winter, Smith recommends an short poncho worn over leather jackets and big printed scarfs.
Patrick Mohr at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Freedom expresses a person’s ability to act upon their will. However, this statement’s boundaries hold true for the fashion world in particular. Dark-skinned models are still a rare commodity in designer’s shows. Patrick Mohr, the German fashion scenes enfant terrible, casted dark-skinned models exclusively for work hard. be mohr. – making a loud statement against arbitrary boundaries. With his show, he enticed the spectator to ponder questions of values and autonomy of decision. Front and center of Mohr’s tenth show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was model Papis Loveday.
His first, and only, appearance during Berlin Fashion Week along with choreographer Nikeata Thompson was a really special moment – an implosion of convention. And even though Mohr almost solely focused on the color blue, on its strength and its interaction with his designs, his fall/winter 2014/15 collection may very well be the most versatile vision of the designer to date. In all its facets, the strong cyan can be seen in blousons, coats, shirts, pants and even in ribbed leggings and socks. The coats had triangular crocodile appliqués on the back and sleeves - Mohr’s signature, which has so far accompanied ten invaluable seasons.
Boris Bidjan Saberi at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The poetic collection Boris Bidjan Saberi showed for this fall and winter came from his vision on the Ottoman Empire and Topkapi architecture. At the same time it was the designer's most essential collection to date, taking his aesthetic and perfecting it with refined tailoring. The balanced collection sported some more athletic details like rucksacks and sneakers as well as subtle prints and long wraps, nonchalantly draped over sharp leather jackets.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The setting for the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2014 show was a fenced basketball field, a literal reference to the main inspiration of the collection. Riccardo Tisci used several trademarks from the sport, like the orange hems that reminded of the Knicks, seams from basketballs and marks used on the field. Other influence for Tisci was the Bauhaus movement, which explained itself in the lines and big bands used as pockets on pants and to gather fur vests.The overall impression was very street, with some posh exceptions. Take for instance the classic sleeveless jersey that was made of fur rather than nylon mesh. Most outings fit right in with the Givenchy-vocabulary but the newness of the collection were the outings that consisted a wide, slightly flared pair of trousers and a knee-length slim coat.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Kim Jones has always been talking about the art of travel for his collections at Louis Vuitton. That is no surprise with a brand that started in luggage but this season he pushed the envelope in that domain. After referencing most continents, Jones this time looked even further. For the Fall/Winter collection the designer looked at NASA maps of the world from space and took aerial photographs of Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Lines in Peru as an inspiration. He then went to those areas to find the finest local materials. This made for a collection that had an futuristic edge but was earthed in traditional values. Best were looks when there was a tension between formal and casual, for exemple in jumpsuit looks with matching coats or suits worn with t-shirts. Jones also added a new version of the Damier-pattern to the house's codes, called the Damier Cobalt, with a dark blue as a sign of new understated luxury.
John Lawrence Sullivan at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
John Lawrence Sullivan fall/winter 2014 was all about British examples of rebels like mods, skinheads and teddy boys. This resulted in quite a few high waisted pleated pants and creepers. It wasn't a retrospective though. Arashi Yanagawa made these influences from last century exciting and new with blown up stripes, metallics and furry knits. Other motives was minerals and marbles, which were visible in prints used for suits, jackets and parkas. This print was especially convincing when treated with a layer of plastic.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At John Varvatos, looks are fearless, confident and as usual influenced by Varvatos passion for Rock' n' Roll. So of course Kiss, in the main soundtrack accompanied his muses, when they pranced down the runway. John‘s leather looks were mainly black, often in shimmery shades, combined with white suits. Throughout the edgy spirit, elegancy is not getting lost.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Inspired by the empathetic portraits of Canadian painter Kris Knight, the new Gucci Fall/Winter 2014 collection shows linear, graphic shapes with the precision in design. The Gucci men -during the day- wears sixties pants, nappa leather and biker jacket, and velvet blazers at night. Manifested in Gucci‘s traditional craftmansship, leather is the protagonist of most garments and occures in almost every look. Creative director Frida Giannini chose a colour pallete, that culminates from deep black into dusty pastels.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Andreas Melbostad showcased a fearless, authentic and original tailored menswear collection. Born out of military inspiration, the line does not miss out on it‘s wild rock 'n' roll roots. Mirrored silver leather pants and bomber jackets are covered with badges and cut in a in a masculine silhouette.
J.W.Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
And again, J.W.Anderson blured the lines of gender in his straightforward Fall/Winter 2014 performance at London Collections: Men. Opening the show with a line of tabards, his mannequin's seemed like canvases for his artistic expression stomping down the runway in high-heeled platform boots. Multicolored knitwear, over wide, cuffed trousers and turtlenecks dominated the collection.
SEEK at Kühlhaus Berlin
Under the theme 'We look towards pop culture for inspiration; we're influenced by sub-cultures, books, youth movements, films and art', the genuine fashion trade show SEEK will warmly welcome the Fall/Winter 2014/2015 season during next Berlin Fashion Week. Since the trade show was founded in 2009, within this exhibition, SEEK will celebrate it's 5th anniversary. Creative Director Oliver Saunders and Fashion Director Maren Wiebus, therefore, chose the unique location Kühlhaus to present 90 selected international brands including Barbour, Billionaire Boys Club, BBC Black, Gourmet, Duffer Japan, Cheap Monday, Our Legacy, Property Of, Puma Collaborations, V Ave Shoe Repair and so on, to an ever-growing audience. As all of them stand for something close to SEEK creators' hearts and find it's inspiration in their surroundings, influenced strongly by music and art, the issuing labels represent authenticity, quality, design and function.
SEEK is on from the 14th till 16th of January 2014 between 10am and 7pm at Kühlhaus Berlin, Germany.
GUCCI's 'Cruise 2014'
Inspired by the vibrant South American temperament of Rio de Janiero, Creative Director Frida Giannini designed the exclusive 'Cruise 2014‘ womens' collection, an ex- clusive insight of must-have travel essentials for the modern GUCCI woman. The collection expresses opulent nonchalance, euphoriy, yet a strong glamourous appearance picking up 70ies styles of the Italian traditional house of GUCCI. Feminine overalls in wide silhouettes and slightly oversized proportions are combined with waist belts, among elegant evening gowns and the new kimono-wrap dress made of exclusive silks. Next to glamourous highlights some sporty influences conquer the GUCCI cosmos within bomber jackets, basketball-inspired T-Shirts and the FRIDA Shirt, the first time Giannini's name appears on one of the brand's designs.
The collection is especially characterized by using various high-quality materials, such as silk, featherweight crêpe de Chine, suedes and cashmere. Some pieces are made of shimmering hand-embroidered iridescent gold and silver sequins, more casual garments are adorned with Macro-Paisley-prints. Photographed against an orange, purple and pink sunset image, the whole colour palette of the collection ranges from exotic colours through to rusty and copper nuances, as well as metallic, silver and bronze shades. As expected, the Cruise 2014 is not missing out on three suitable handbag lines: The 'GUCCI 58‘, which customizes the charming looks of the season's collection. The 'Harness' combines the design of the GUCCI Horsebit with traditional craftsmanship, whilst the brand's outstanding characteristic bamboo detail gives an elegant allure to the feminine 'Hip Bamboo'. Metallic high-heel sandals and the Espadrilla wedges complete the looks of the sporty- glamorous women's 'Cruise 2014' collection.
Take a look at the whole collection on
The Madeleen- Bugaboo by Kaviar Gauche
The iconic Dutch pushchair brand Buga- boo teams up with avant-garde designer duo Kaviar Gauche in an ultimative collaboration of 'The Madeleen', a stylish and suitable must-have bag for a modern mother. As the brand Bugaboo stands for mobility and innovative design, this accessories sets new standards, especially for the mother's everyday use. The inspiration for this magnificent, yet handy bag came within a workshop of 'It-mums' of the German media landscape, who represented the potential customer and gave direct input of how an essential bag for a modern woman should be and look like. Kaviar Gauche incorporated these informations into the design process and created a bag made of luxurious black soft nappa leather combined with suede. The eye-catcher bag combines the classic tote form with the duffel bag look, has a removable bag-in-bag with various inside pockets and a zip, which separates the base from the rest of the bag.
'The Madeleen' will be available online from November 2013 as a limited edition of 300 bags.
REPLAY's Laserblast Club Capsule Collection
On Wednesday, 23rd of October 2013 Italian denim and casual wear brand REPLAY celebrated the launch of it's Laserblast Club capsule collection at the ‘Terrassensaal' in Munich in collaboration with VICE. Stunning British singer Charli XCX -who is the protagonist and new face of this collection and just released her first album ‘True Romance' - highlighted this very special event with a vivid live performance, accompanied by flashy computer graphics and laser beamer video projections.
The new REPLAY AW2013-14 line combines club culture with denim, but also points out technological progresses, en- viromental responsibility and eco-oriented thinking. Through using the Laserblast technology to get the typical denim aethetics, REPLAY doesn't need to use big amounts of water, energy and stones or sand to wash the jeans, as the wash is literally put onto the jeans by a laser. Watch the video teaser of Charli XCX for the REPLAY Laserblast Club Capsule Collection on
Dr. Martens x Gavin Watson
Certainly one of the strongest claims to counterculture, Dr. Martens boots with their trademark yellow stitching, grooved sole and heel-loop have defined a specific look. Countless rebellious streams, subcultures and tribes have adopted the style, which accompanies the journey towards-self expression. Aside from the boot itself, the brand has incorporated accessories and apparel into its collection. Enter renowned British photographer Gavin Watson.
He has been deeply involved with British subculture since adolescence and has documented the scene in his intimate photographs. Born in Northwest London in 1965, Watson started taking pictures at an early age. By the time he was 14 he had become a skinhead and immersed himself into this world of Dr. Martens, 2 Tone and Madness. Through all of it, he documented his buddies‘ shenanigans as well as those of his ‘muse‘ - his brother Neville - through the lens of his camera. Publications such as ‘Skins‘, ‘Skins and Punks‘ and ‘Raving ‘89‘ showcased his work to the world and have prone luminaries from Terry Richardson to Shane Meadows to hail him as a genius and even credit much of the look of the 2006 drama ‘This is England‘ to Watson‘s work.
For the Fall/Winter 2013 season Watson will present a capsule collection of limited edition printed T-shirts, which feature images from his vast archive. The images are captioned as ‘Nev flying the flag outside the Watson house in Hawthorne, High Wycombe‘, ‘Dean Spencer outside Camera Press, Coram St, Russell Square, London, 1981‘, ‘Nev’s sky blue Sta Press and Docs, Carnaby St. London‘ and ‘The Wycombe Marsh mob, Wycombe Marsh, 1981.‘ The shirts will be available in two different fits, for men and women respectively and will be available from Dr. Martens own retail stores and online from October.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
At Paris Fashion Week SS14 CHANEL showcased a vivid, optimistic and cheerful collection that linked art and fashion and manifested the creator‘s attitude towards a symbiosis between both. Karl Lagerfeld showed elaborate looks in the brand‘s cult fabric tweed embroidered with muslins, organza and laces, often frayed and torned. Spring/Summer 2014 at CHANEL will be dominated by a colour palette of blacks and whites next to pink, blue and yellow shades. Elements of the traditional costume got assembled in a new design and combine flowing, asymmetric and deep décolleté‘s with wide or slim silhouettes. Handbags, rings, bracelets and a new interpretation of the legendary pearl necklace completed this remarkable look.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Kenzo for Spring/Summer 2014 staged a unique and impressive runway set with a huge waterfall installation and splashes synchronized with the music beat in a rather unusual neighbourhood for a Fashion Week Venue: the suburb Saint Denis.The collection was speaking the true vocabulary of nonchalance and effortlessness. Laid-back streetwear was combined with a strong manner of japanese aesthetics and modern fashion.
The two young designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon managed to showcase a purist sense of permeability found in masculine cuts and sporty silhouettes. Sleeveless blazers, pleated pants and midriff blouses with fishes and waves transformed in graphic patterns were the key elements of most of the garments and illustrated Kenzo‘s affection for outstanding prints. The base colour of most of the pieces was a strong blue and lilac on a black and white base. Besides making a strong fashion statement, this show also committed to a strong political awareness regarding ocean pollution and overfishing.
Viktor&Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The background for the Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2014 collection was an institutional wall (maybe from a boarding school?) with the designers names clad on it in graffiti. That rebellious attitude persisted in the collection were good girls gone pretty bad. The schoolboy-uniforms showed today were deconstructed and heavily studded. Like a gothic cheerleader, the Viktor&Rolf girl pierced her collars or painted her shirt. New was the bermuda-shape, that in it‘s largeness, moved like a stiff skirt. Optional were the the little kilts in front and in the back.
Dolce&Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Designer-duo Dolce&Gabbana for Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 showcased garments, that got inspired by Roman and Greek mythology and the perfection of ancient temples and theatres. The collection thematically focuses on beauty, magic and enchantment and exposes pomposity and glamour in a strong manner. The main motives of this show were golden antique coins adorning dresses, headbands, jewelry and belts. Macramé and chiffon textiles in a colour palette of black, red, cream, dark green and esspecially gold dominated this selection of stunning pieces.
Remarkable prints of almond tree flowers, lithography of Sicilian temples and traditional decorations of ceramics highlighted exclusive fabrics such as lacquered silks, organza laces and gold-printed leather. Along with exclusive, luxury pieces, such as highwaist pencil skirt, fur vests, golden earrings and the newest Dolce & Gabbana bags entitled Eva and Sara, the fashion collection, was accompanied by the original music taken from various movies of Federico Fellini.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Philipp Plein‘s show at Milan Fashion Week has been a spectaculous highlight opening with an exclusive live performance of "Work“ by Australian rapper Iggy Azalea that combined the two worlds of Hip Hop and fashion. With a cast of only black models the german designer wanted to commit a statement towards breaking barriers and rules. Stunning beauties arised the runways in studded baseball jackets made of Nappa leather, striped socks and mini-pleated skirts all dominated by black, white, pink and blue colours and flashy metallic shades. Lacy night gowns made of translucent chiffons created a feminine-chic styling combined with eye-catching highlights of Swarovski crystals.
KTZ at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Marjan Pejoski & Koji Maruyama’s Spring/ Summer 2014 was a highlight on third day of London Fashion Week. Dominated by black and white moroccan tile textures, the collection had unique pieces made of high- tech fabrics and varnished leather accessoried by oversized, opulent jewellery and metallic embossing. Hitting the zeitgeist with stunning creations such as hijab-looking headpieces, hamsa hands and enveloping garments, the designer duo transformed the runway into a futuristic sci-fi trip to the oriental dessert.
Ralph Lauren at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014
Ralph Lauren put forward a classical and monochrome collection on last day of NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Starting with chic business outfits, dominated mostly by blacks and whites and a variety of floral and square patterns. Skirts, three piece suits, as well as evening gowns glazed on the runway. The flow of this clear line during the second phase got pursued by unexpected pieces of vivid, acid- shrill colour ranges. Sharply-cut dresses were put together with matching accessories such as handbags, hats and sunglasses.
L’ Aventure Pop-up Shop opens up in Paris
L’ Aventure is a pop-up store designed in collaboration with canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé and his team. ‘The Louis Vuitton’s experience doesn’t stop as soon as you walk out the store with your luggage, they’re in it for life with you.’ This unpredented space highlights Louis Vuitton’s expert authority on travel, since Louis Vuitton’s monogram shows up daily on every airport worldwide. The store will offer not only objects, but also a number of unique services, such as offering a wide range of options for customising luggage.
L’ Aventure opens on 12 September 2013 on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Where would you look to find the fashion’s face of today? When many would turn to the catwalks, Diesel – with its hopeful spirit ready to ‘Reboot’ – has herded an army of outsiders from the fertile soil of the brand’s Tumblr page. A practising follower of social media, newly-appointed Artistic Director, Nicola Formichetti, was the main protagonist to what is a refreshing chapter in the Diesel story – a change of narrative and a fresh plot to match. Formichetti’s vision is one that unearths and champions the most relevant talent of our time – something he has always been keen to depict through his imagery – and the Fall/Winter 13 campaign is no different.
The subjects make for an eclectic cast, comprised of Japan’s current obsession (actress Kiko Mizuhara), rosy-haired Bronx graffiti artist (Michelle Calderon) and female Olympian-turned-male model (Casey Legler). Throw in an Italian electro-house DJ (Bob Rifo) and an alienesque Dylan Fosket, and the troupe grows curiouser and curiouser. The styling of each shot was entrusted to the individual, with the vital Diesel staples to hand – a wardrobe of denim and leather pieces, customised by Formichetti himself. Composed in classic-portrait style, the shots frame the atypical models with brilliant nobility, and with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinnodh Matadin on board as photographers, they strike a formula to render snapshots as artefacts of modern times.
Diesel Opens Frankfurt Flagship Store
Raising the curtain after a three-year absence from the city, Diesel unveiled its new and long-awaited flagship store in Frankfurt’s main metropolis on August 1st. Split over two levels, the 383m² store will present pieces from both menswear and womenswear main line collections and Diesel Denim, alongside a discerning selection of shoes, bags and accessories. Four months of hard labour transformed the listed building into an inspiring retail space, built on the artful marriage of vintage and contemporary design accents, from cold, hard steel fixtures to wood block floors.
It’s most exciting element, however, is its devoted private areas to the Diesel Black Gold ready-to-wear collections - previously exclusive to a select handful of German stores, the Frankfurt store is now home to its most daring and directional line. And the new destination still has surprises in store, as September 5th will mark its large-scale opening event, and will be attended by founder of the label, Renzo Rosso, for what promises to be a truly spectacular launch.
Mykita Opens Store in New York
Debuting their directional eyeware in the USA for the first time is Berlin-based brand, MYKITA. Adding to its list of worldwide locations that includes Paris, Zurich, Vienna and Tokyo, the New York store now marks the eigth retail space opened by the brand. Set in the heart of SoHo, the new MYKITA store overhauls a space in Crosby Street's defunct art deco factory building, retaining its original character with its industrial finish.
Almost an art installation in itself, the merchandising of the boutique is unique to the eye of MYKITA, drawing upon the concept of mass-production and ready consumption to construct an ambiance that is both inordinately stocked and astonishingly minimal. The store will offer pieces from their main line alongside a covetable capsule collection exclusive to 109 Crosby Street.
Nieuw Jurk Spring/Summer 2014
Ever reliable to stir controversy, Dutch label Nieuw Jurk shouted from the soapbox of their Amsterdam Fashion Week show with a collection founded on debauchery and scandal. $€XXX speaks mirthifully of the impact of the porn industry and its amplification with the uncontainable presence of the internet.
Chunky rubber boots and PVC bodysuits cling tight to skin, buckled and zipped in fetishwear fashion. Motifs were both lucid and lurid, as X-rated imagery jibed with comic rave-print wit. Sex-shop neons emblazoned photographic prints with their depressingly optimistic lambent glow, tiling catsuits and men's co-ords in wearably clubby pastiche; outsized patent tees take on inflatable doll appliqué with surprisingly permissive flare, while the smile of acid-house undergoes crass adulteration.
Accessories were a little more conceptual, though their statement was no less explicit; faux fur patches served playfully as knee and breast patches, while harness bras and candy string bikinis drolly stands up for any witticism left unsaid.
Royal Hem Fall/Winter 2013
Cyclewear just got stylish with Royal Hem's Fall/Winter 13 collection, a tribute to London's cult cycle ride and mirthfully named 'Tweed Run', for which contestants take to the pedals in a dress code of traditional British biking attire.
Royal Hem unpick the stitches that form the patchwork of British style; a fusion of sartorial British classicism, French mystique and knife-sharp Italian tailoring, its foreign accents are what steer the aesthetic from costume, to a kind of charisma that is more difficult to define.
Casual stands up to a hit of formality, with Shetland wools and Aran knits layering bow-tied shirts and waistcoats. Plus fours are revived with that eccentric taste for color-clashing that could only get past a British palate, as flecked tweeds and dogtooth checks bicker politely amidst a canvas of ¾ length pants and deconstructed blazers, lined with vintage Penny Farthing prints. Slimline silhouettes streamline with single breasted jackets, while Chesterfield coats are made boxy by shawl collars and patch pockets. Styled with a contemporary hand, however, fedoras and rolled ankle cuffs speak with an audacious London twang.
Stone Island Flagship Store Openings
Munich's Maximillian Strasse is soon to make room for a new resident at number 27, as Stone Island are set to open their second German Flagship store in the legendary shopping district this September.
The 100m² store follows the launch of its Sylt store in March 2012, and will stock both the Stone Island and Stone Island Junior collections, as well as the capsule Stone Island Shadow Project.
July 6th also saw the unveiling of another Stone Island Flagship store, this time in Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany. Images from the Stone Island Archivio '982'-'012' 30th anniversary book were projected onto the backdrop of a 10 meter-high floating installation, constructed in honor of the event.
In keeping with their other recent openings, oiled oak and stone lay a natural finish to the interiors, contrasted by the contemporary accent of luminous fibreglass and aluminium fixtures, holding collections in sunken cages made to a bespoke specification.
Laurèl Spring/Summer 2014
Elisabeth Schwaiger creates high quality pieces from leather, silk and jersey. For Laurèl's spring/summer 2014 collection she drew inspiration from Asia's aesthetic language. As a result, the designs are modern, urban and infused with exotic impressions. The color palette for spring/summer 2014 is framed in black and white with a vibrant impressionist print in and strong one-pieces in turqoise or purple. The Asian influence adds a relaxed touch to the smart clothes, which are suitable for all occasions from the office to the beach.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Salon Show Spring/Summer 2014 Green Showroom
Sustainability is growing ever more important in fashion and the green showroom during Berlin Fashion Week provides a platform for sustainable labels. At the salon show 20 brands showcased 54 looks from avant-garde designs to delicate silk dresses and fine blouses as well as all the way to accessories. Among the labels were renowned designers such as Lanius or Elsien Gringhuis and Swiss label Royal Blush by Jana Keller / Johanna Riplinger, who employ plant-based treatments for the leather and organic salmon they use -all made locally. Their collection is simple, reduced and puristic. For a more rock 'n' roll vibe, designer Aleks Kurkowski combines straight forward, avant-garde designs with relaxed urbanity and the essential thought of sustainability. Once again, the show proofed that fashion and awareness can create something beautiful.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg
For the fifth year running, Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and Fashion ID have awarded the 'Designer for Tomorrow' award during MBFWB. As a visible platform for creativity, it gives up- and coming talents the opportunity to present their designs. This year's patron Stella McCartney helped mentor the finalists and gave them advise ahead of their showcase. The five designers were Katy Clark, Jamie Wei Huang and Ioana Ciulacu Miron from the UK as well as Hannah Kuklinski and Annalena Skörl Maul from Germany. With her collection 'Paradox', Ioana Ciulacu Miron took the award. For her it is all about contrasts. Her creations are soft and flowing, appear structured and feminine while simultaneously expressing a masculine strength. A diversity of materials like wool, plastic, chiffon and even plastic foam fuse in quite extraordinary unity. The prints on the pieces kept in subdued color were all hand-drawn by the designer herself. Having won over the jury and the audience, Ioana is 2013's 'Designer for Tomorrow'.
Fendi Avenue Montaigne Store Opening
Fendi celebrated its move from 22 Avenue Montaigne to number 51 with the unveiling of The Glory of Water exhibition, exclusive in-store cocktail reception and a dinner hosted at the iconic Petit Palais. Karl Lagerfeld guested alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi, Sharon Stone and Chiara Mastroianni.
The new 600m² bouqitue – a celebration of Italian beauty – was designed with rich femininity. Sumptuous textures coat curves in velvet, leather and sleek stone. Fendi wears its Roman roots on its sleeves, studding walls with travertine plates.
Boasting an exclusive fur room, the new store will provide customers with the oppurtunity to create made-to-order pieces. A spectacular installation will narrate the craftsmanship behind the construction of Fendi's fur lines, with the infamous Baguette bag hanging from a display wall pierced by 30, 000 bronze needles. Bags too can be bespoke, with items from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag available to customise to a specification of leathers, colors and finishes.
Chanel Fall Couture 2013
A mixed bag for Chanel this couture season; true-to-tradition bouclé had us believing we were following a path back to the golden age of the brand. That was until hemlines were snatched back and suede cuissardes gave new meaning to longline. Metallics threaded through the weave of the wool itself, set off by the layering of sequined pastel separates.
Mandarin collars and funnel-necks went a little bit '60s, a little bit space-race, in exaggerated volumes, while rolled-over edges gave an inflated cartoonish finish. Wide belts were embellished with the occasional line of silver – reminiscent of pilgrim styles, they found themselves doubled, even tripled in size. Slung to the hips they seemed careless, but tight go-go shifts in silk said otherwise.
Lagerfeld's experimentation with texture truly came to fruition with the tactile geometrics he mosaiced. Soft sheer underlays peeked through the delicate silver armour of fabrics that were seemingly adorned by the fine art of paper-rolling. Origami cloth squares opened with a cross to give the impression of a gentler kind of studwork, picking out the accenting features of the Chanel silhouette: just the hint of a swan-like neck and a quick flash of feminine wrists.
Augustin Teboul Spring/Summer 2014
Like dark princesses, Augustin Teboul's models drew the attention during the spring/summer 2014 show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Each in their own space, divided by white screens, they exuded detachment from the outside world and a kinship with the spiritual sphere. Once again Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul used their favorite materials - leather, knits, silk and mousselin - which they combined with fringed and patent leather details for spring/summer 2014. While they stayed true to their all black aesthetic, they interpreted it for the lighter and warmer season with styles such as shorts, dresses and crocheted parts. Inspiration came from Christendom and its stark contrast of humility and opulence. Volume once again played a big role in the collection, as did intricate embellishments, reminiscent of ecclesiastical ornaments. Augustin Teboul rounded off their looks with their notorious headpieces, creating the ultimate extravaganza in black.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2014
The label IVANMAN has been around since 2010. The menswear collection is characterized by clear lines, minimalist silhouettes and graphic geometrical details: a testament to the label’s balancing act between classic and avant-garde designs. For spring/summer 2014, the deliberate reflection of the present as a time of change served as inspiration. For designer Ivan Mandzukic, fashion is a social phenomenon, which he is trying to break down into its pieces, analyze these and create new clothes with them. The color scheme for spring/summer 2014 ranges from softer white, camel and rose to grungy black. This contrast between soft and feminine and harsh, masculine attributes is evident throughout the entire designs. Stand out elements of the unusual collection were certainly the body belts, baring the models’ backs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013
Until now, Raf Simons' reworking of Dior was seen to be remarkably orthodox. Only his third couture show for the fashion house, designs were propelled by a kind of creative licence that was perceptibly braver.
Though heritage houndstooth still made the cut, this time it was magnified, mantled and modernised. A patent sheen picked out the tiered layers of the reinterpreted bar suit – a brazen symbol if ever there were for Simons' eventual metamorphosis of the brand. Fabrics swathed, yet the look remained clean, fitted to the form for a reworked feminimnity that was contemporary, all the while classic.
More surprising still was the arrival of spiked shibori, which sported strapless dresses with spage-age skeleton. Hair and makeup too afforded a sense of the intergalactic, slicked to skull to show silvered lips. Diagonal cuts sliced through the flounce of Dior's past like a scalpel, pastel metallics and sheer holograph prints abducting its legacy and transporting it not just to the present, but resonating the brand firmly in the future.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2014
Veronique Nichanian's collections for Hermès are always about evolution rather than revolution. Her menswear in understated, luxurious and handsome. Where many designers try to shock the wearer with high impact collections and shows, Nichanian seduces them by awakening their desires with luscious clothing. For spring/summer 2014 the collection had a tension between the formal and casual which was perfectly mastered in a look that featured a sharp leather jacket with a t-shirt and a printed scarf. Not surprisingly, the leather pieces were true objects of desire. Trousers, jackets or t-shirts, Nichanian can always create them in a manner so that they are not kinky whatsoever, but an intimate luxury to add to your daily life.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2014
The centre of the Dior Homme stage was a labyrinth of mirrors which the models entered after their walk on the catwalk. This divided the collection up in all sorts of fragments and worked as a collage of shoes, clothes, bags and faces. This faceted attitude was also visible on the clothing. Graphic appliqués were taped on the jackets, coats and pants like a 21th century stained-glass window. The inspiration for this came from a trip the designer, Kris van Assche, took to Miami, where Art Deco is omnipresent. The effects that produce a mirror was also used in the accessories, like in a bag that seemed elongated. All in all, the collection brought a certain strictness that can constitute to a full wardrobe, but which never becomes too formal.
Valentino Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the head designers of Valentino, are known for their experimental approach to everyday classics. Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection expressed that approach in a military way mixed with clean lines and new silhouettes. Starting of with full looks in raw denim, the collection later picked up white T-shirts and chinos. Recent hallmarks like heat-bonded leather and camo-print also reappeared. This all with the extreme couture-like skill that the designers are known for. The duo also introduced a new collaboration with Havaianas, combining luxury and practicality in crocodile thongs.
Dries van Noten Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The backdrop of the Dries van Noten show on thursday was a massive curtain of gold foil that shimmered like a pool on a sunny day. In the middle of the hall was a gold drum kit that soon was played by a young woman, providing the models with a hypnotic rhythm. The collection that followed was quintessential Dries: floral prints, see-through fabrics and above all the nonchalance of a very cool guy. The collection was infused with antique military clothing and elements, like a heavy gold embroidery and gold piping and buttons. When the Belgian took his bow, the drummer didn't stop playing and the models, who were lined up against the gold foil, didn't move a feet. This gave a great opportunity to see the clothing up close, and revealed details that only closer inspections make visible.
Calvin Klein Collection Spring/Summer 2014
Clean and clutter-free: Calvin Klein Collection. In a plethora of blues, sportswear governed the show – a pertinent match for neoprene textures. Simply unadorned, cartooned silhouettes pop through the storyboard with rounded form, cut up by blockish line. Chunky sandals were similarly caricatured, with inch-thick soles in a powder-blue pigment saved for the dusty pages of a comic book.
Leather was likewise animated; in giant crocodile skins, exaggeration was afoot. And then there were the graphics: deafeningly serene were the seascapes and skies that splashed across sweaters in panoramic splendour. An audacious affair for Calvin Klein Collection, delivering a collection that was plump with personality and performed with artful precision.
Bottega Veneta Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Bottega Veneta have print down to a science. A peculiar choice, then, to wave in their handiwork with a succession of unassuming prototypes.
And what parodying prototypes they were, mocking with their trompe-d'oeil tailor's chalk. Blueprinting pockets, lapels and buttons alike, it's a struggle to ascertain whether or not tailoring was, in fact, a taunting mirage. If the devil is in the detail, here was one feigning spirit.
Satire eventually gave way to sincerity, with those famously harmonised unconforming checks in harvest shades of oxblood and oat. Gridlock, too, had eyes transfixed, first pin-sharp and then waveringly hand drawn. In varying thicknesses they were, at the very least, potently hypnotic.
Form lent wonderfully to strict flutes of ivory, taking on a jazz timbre fit for the toe-tapping of correspondent shoes – were they not already beaten in the race by thatched leather loafers. Suede bombers made the look seem heavy, whipped up to jawline with layered turtlenecks. Had it not been for the soothing introduction of the open polo, the summer sun would seem menacing. Weather regardless, Bottega Veneta walked designs to be desired come rain or shine.
Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Prada’s prints certainly know the art of persuasion – seemingly repulsive at first glance, just a few more looks is all it takes before they blossom into something whole-heartedly desirable. Color, too, is applied with a masterful stroke, this time in melancholic hues which contrast and bejewel with off-kilter tones. Deep blood red - the kind reserved solely for velvet - cushions nuggets of equally opulent teal, to flock mournful holiday florals.
Hawaiian prints, not used to summers in the shade, seem wilted in amongst the cool air. With trousers long and layers heavy, together the look is vaguely autumnal. That is, until, dissected to standalone pieces, whereupon Prada bridges the gap between cliché and capricious.
Versace Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A celebration of athleticism – that's what Versace gave us with their latest presentation. Bodies suitibly buffed, muscles bust hulk-like from cropped shorts and cuffs rolled just an inch too early. Toned frames were a tight fit for uncompromising leather numbers, though such was the intended effect. Appliquéd in sports tape – skin no exception – tank-style collared shirts adopted light, sporty weights in racer hues, from fluro-blues to day-glow orange.
Suit pants mirror sweats, with ribbed cuffs to boot. It is the gladiator sandals, however, that hold the torch for olympian apparel, reforming the look with modernistic flare.
Happy Birthday Hugo
Counting twenty years of avant-garde design this summer is the German diffusion line, HUGO. Born in 1993 to the Hugo Boss group, HUGO has come into its own as a pioneer of trends, looked to for trailblazing design in finely focussed cuts.
To mark the occasion, HUGO is hosting a summer-long celebration at the Saatchi Gallery in London, in the form of its exhibition, Red Never Follows. From July 21st to September 1st, twenty inspiring creators and inventors will present their artworks under the exhibition. From interactive multimedia installations to unflinching street art, this diverse showcase of creativity will mark two decades of innovation by HUGO.
Also honoring the anniversary is the launch of an exclusive retrospective collection of 20 signature HUGO designs. Pieces set to feature in the capsule line include the red woman suit, a bicolor man shirt and limited edition ‘90s style headphones, and will be premiered at Galeries Lafayette in Paris from September 2nd, before going live online and in the Champs-Elysées flagship store.
Philipp Plein Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer for Philipp Plein was a surprisingly eloquent pick 'n' mix of subcultures past. Rolling out almost fifty looks, Plein had plenty of room for manoeuvre.
The collection started out somewhere between ted and rockabilly before doing a full 180 to the baggy sweatpants of now. Black and red leather formed the skin of the collection, in weights ripe for biking and with the customary rocker studwork, Jackets were cut to hijack the wardrobe of the teds – complete with leather shawl collar, retro was rewired to duly home Plein's autograph laughing skull motif, amongst the scrapbook of patched denim. Snatching shirts from blazered models stripped back the costume of the look to the current day, paired with distressed-to-the-point-of-write-off jeans hugging hips just enough to give a flash of branded briefs. Where others fail to handle the retro's reluctancy to move with the times, Plein has indefinitely stolen from the best and made it his own, albeit with tongue habitually-placed in cheek.
Escada Sport Spring/Summer Campaign 2013
Set against the infinite turquoise of the ocean skyline, Escada Sport's Guatemala-inspired Summer collection paints an equally breathtaking view. The campaign, photographed by ZOO's very own Bryan Adams, frames model Sara Blomqvist with the scenery of the promenade, with white walls and palms providing a graphic motif.
The relaxed beach vibe is embodied by motion, as floor-skimming pajama pants catch sail of the wind. Slouch-fit seperates billow with the breeze, though light summer knits in the hottest of pinks certainly make for a lustworthy windbreaker. Bandeaus and monokinis keep swimwear style subtle, but busy patterns keep the eye entertained. Pure ice-whites provide respite from color, amplifying hues like stained glass. Print, all the while, emblazons with stripes of all species: plain rigid lines , graduated batiks and stencilled florals weave through aztec grids – a souvenir from a Guatemalan summer.
Hackett London Spring/Summer 2014
In one jaunty step it was off to the boat race, where Hackett London's riviera wardrobe will go down just swimmingly.
A taste for brazen pattern that conflicts in the most civilized of manners is the veritable mark of an eccentric Englishman, in shades both complementary and harmonizing alike. Baby hues pop to pronounce layered seperates; peach, lemon, and spearmint shades arm the delectable palette of the collection, making way for a compass of blues, ranging from duck-egg to navy, to accent pieces with prestige.
Oxford slacks are the go-to staple, whether in blushing tints or intrepid checks, worn long or rolled up to the ankle for a more contemporary twist. Accessories are similarly sartorial – as bow-ties and cravats see that the all-important trimmings of the Hackett man are never in short supply. Heritage brogues and tassel loafers cast the footstep of a shrewd dresser, while adroitly-matched pocket squares and shoulder-cloaking cardigans speak of a true English gentleman.
Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A tent in Hyde Park was the marquee for Burberry Prorsum's homecoming, and what better way to herald British menswear than by paying tribute to England's most prolific creatives. 'Writers and Painters' titled the piece, authored by Christopher Bailey's creative vision.
Like Alan Bennett cutouts, longline woolen coats, sweaters, shirts and oxford slacks weighted the theme of the 'Writer', painted – seemingly – by the brush of David Hockney himself. Off-kilter shades traced the signature of the artist, with blood-red and turquoise piercing from pannels of mustard yellow. At the hand of Hockney, detail is simplified – and so was Bailey's stark color-blocking.
Save a peeking skinny tie and drawstring sack, accessories rarely reared a head. Spotted scarves referenced the painter, though what would either artist be without their chunky trademark frames? Revitalised in a Pop-Art spectrum, the brand's logo studs the surface of box-square sunglasses to optical effect. In praise or pastiche, Bailey's portrait of two artists assuredly paints a pretty picture.
London Collections: Men
London raised the curtain on the menswear calendar this weekend, with London Collections: Men shining a light on both heritage and emerging design talent. Seen in by Dolce & Gabbana's opening presentation on Saturday, Sunday saw designers Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll carry the flame. Kay Kwok's radical prints took an intergalactic turn, as razor-sharp tailoring flitted between minimalism and its converse – atmospheric motifs in an electronic palette, with organic line echoing that of the Earth's magnetosphere. Wet-look leather cut to all lengths grazed ankles and knees in muted monochrome tones, as minimalism made way for motifs.
Schoolboy-style short-suits were also on the menu at Mr Start & Mr Hare and Alan Taylor, where reinterpreted heritage fabrics echoed tweed and worsted wool, contrasting tough leather panels with dusty pinks and dirty lemons. Astrid Andersen, meanwhile, certainly staged a show to remember. Playing on the inherently masculine street vibe behind its sportswear concept, the gentle mystique of the lucky charm had more than a hand in its dusky jewelled tones. Atheletic frames were unashamedly emphasised by the figure-hugging lycra and the fragility of lace, not to mention the peek-a-boo cutouts which render sexuality of the collection not so transparent.
Milano Moda Uomo Creative Installation: Ermenegildo Zegna
Drawing a curtain on an eighteen-month hiatus, The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is going above and beyond to ensure the entrance of its new Creative Director, Stefano Pilati, is far from a quiet one. To mark his catwalk debut since leaving Yves Saint Laurent, his work will be unveiled amidst a specially-curated creative installation, falling upon the first day of Milan's Menswear Fashion Week.
The setting of The VI Febbraio Pavilion is steeped in Milanese history, standing as the old fairground site of the city. Recently redeveloped, through the duration of Milano Moda Uomo, it is set to become a hub of artistic activity.
Pilati has enlisted Swedish film director Johan Söderberg, musician Klas Åhlund and pianist and composer Maxence Cyrin to compliment the aesthetic of his creative direction.
The event will be open to the public, welcoming 1,000 guests from June 22nd-25th.
Isabel Marant for H&M
H&M today announced news of their eagerly-anticipated design collaboration, with Isabel Marant named as the latest designer to release a collection for the brand. Arriving in stores on November 14th, the collection will be the first in the label's history of collaborations to include a menswear line, following in the success of the David Beckham loungewear line.
Pieces are expected to follow in the ethos of Marant's effortless attitude to dressing – an idea that threads Parisian elegance throughout her aesthetic. Speaking on the collection, the designer said, "I aim to create something real, that women want to wear in their everyday lives, with a certain carelessness, which I think is very Parisian: you dress up, but do not pay too much attention and still look sexy. The collection is infused with this kind of easiness and attitude. Everything can be mixed following one's own instincts."
Previous partners of the label include Karl Lagerfeld, Versarce and Marni – each of whom have produced sell-out collections and queues to line the outside of the stores. A current climate of understated chic, however, forecasts Marant's to be the most sought-after collection for the brand.
Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 Campaign
The sun may be beaming on your back, but just one glimpse at the steely sobriety of the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 campaign is enough to give you chills. Captured by the painterly eyes of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, an inky color palette and soft elusive lines lend an impressionistic quality to the photos. As the twenties theme subtly sings, angular form appears to almost dance, with a gently-focussed lens illustrating a dreamy sense of movement. Starring Mariacarla Boscono and Florian Van Bael, the campaign is to debut worldwide later this month.
Karl Lagerfeld Concept Store Openings
With word of a Karl Lagerfeld store expansion generating a steady buzz accross Europe, for Paris and Berlin, anticipation of the new concept stores in the two cities is reaching a crescendo. Wade through the picturesque streets of Le Marais from June 7th to stumble upon newest edition to the eclectic boutiques of Rue Vielle du Temple. The store is the second of its kind to launch in Paris this year, joining the Boulevard St Germain location, which opened in February this year. July 1st will see Berlin welcome it's first Karl Lagerfeld concept store, found on the Neue Schönhauser Straße, closely followed by another opening in Munich this September.
Developed under the creative direction of Berlin-based architects Plajer & Franz, the new Karl Lagerfeld concept stores are to follow in the same vein as it's other recently-opened destinations. Artful design and ground-breaking technology will serve to accent the brand's luxury collections, with matte-black and high-shine feeding texture into Lagerfeld's characteristic monochrome aesthetic.
In-store iPads open a window to the Lagerfeld world, with shoppers able to immerse themselves in the latest collections, photograph their favourite products and even leave a note for the designer. Innovation extends to the fitting rooms, which double as photobooths, equipped with built-in touch screens to apply Karl-inspired filters before uploading to Facebook and Twitter.The growing European presence of the brand shows little sign of waning, with a second Berlin concept store at Leipziger Platz to be unveiled early next year.
Fred Perry 60 Years auction
As part of the 60 Years anniversary of Fred Perry, the brand has compiled a list of their most loyal and distinguished fans and invited them to personalize a 1952 reproduction shirt. 60 shirts have been individually customized with special birthday messages and unique designs as part of the charity fund raising exercise.
From 30th May to 21st July, each of the customised shirts will be available as part of a special online auction in aid of the Amy Winehouse Foundation. The foundation has been set up in Amy's memory to prevent the effects of drug and alcohol misuse on young people and aims to support, inform and inspire vulnerable and disadvantaged young people to help them reach their full potential. The first 15 shirts will go for sale on Ebay on May 30th for a period of ten days and includes customisations from Sister by Sibling, Raf Simons, Bradley Wiggins, Damon Albarn, Exactitudes, Jamie Reid, Neville Brody and Inez & Vinoodh.
The shirts can be bid on from now at www.fredperry.com/60-years-gallery
Dior Cruise 2014
Raf Simons took the house of Christian Dior to Monaco for it's cruise 2014 presentation. The collection was a clear example of Raf pushing both himself and the French institute that is Dior. A new take on the Bar suit with exagerated shoulders and narrow waist in bright red set the tone for a quite sporty collection. This athletic influence was opposed with a new material for Raf: lace. Another reinvented classic was a piece that at first looked and moved like a "new look"-skirt but was, in fact, a baggy trouser with pleats on the hip.
MM6 Store Opening Paris
Just a few days ago, Maison Martin Margiela opened its first European store. After the first store was opened in New York in September 2012, it was only a matter of time until the next store in another fashion capital followed. The big white MM6 script over the entrance and the black door frame is visible from far away, attracting the Parisians’ attention. Located at 22 Place du Marché Saint Honoré the store is located in the prestigious first arrondissement.
The design inside the store contrasts dark wood with shining white tiles. The brown parquet floor leads the customers through the shop, along racks displaying the current SS 2013 collection and faceless white mannequins wearing some of the key looks. The furniture design uses clear lines and simplistic shapes. One of the core materials used for the furniture is glass, either in shimmering see-through or or transparent blue colour. Simplicity is the key to making the MM6 shopping experience a special one.
Mulberry First Berlin Store Opening
To continue the expansion of Mulberry into major European cities, the next store is opening in Berlin. It's the first store of the luxury fashion house in the vibrant German capital, bringing anything from the classic Bayswater to the casual Alexa manufactured in the tradition of dedicated craftsmanship with it. Mulberry, being one of the few fashion brands which still produces their goods in the UK, has always retained a focus on detailed leather craft and thereby guaranteed highest quality of their products.
Never forgetting the rural roots of the British brand, the store's design uses natural materials such as oak wood in warm colours or limestone, reminding of the English countryside. The British architects of Universal Design Studio came up with the store's design located at Kurfürstendamm 184.
A special treat welcoming guests at the opening is a kinetic art installation by the artist Frank Hülsbömmer. Besides the ranges of men’s and women’s leather bags as well as women's ready to wear and shoe collections, the Berlin store is home to the Willow Tote in a shiny brown alligator leather. It's the only one of its
kind in the entire world and available nowhere else.
Adidas by Tom Dixon
The first installment of the collaboration between sportswear brand Adidas and industrial designer Tom Dixon was just unveiled at MOST during Salone del Mobile in Milan. A factory installation inside the space of a reconstructed 19th century railway station was the setting for the presentation of the new designs. Sleek sportswear and innovative apparel such as convertible travel bags are the core of the capsule collection.
Inventive garments like a parka that transforms into a sleeping bag or light hoodies to zip up into small pouches are true to Dixon's explorative nature and the forward-thinking technologies employed by Adidas. The highlight of the collection might be a spectacular modular five-in-one overall design that converts to a coat, jacket, pant, skirt, or short at will.
The collection stands out due to its high quality materials and production using British craftmanship. Mid November 2013 adidas by Tom Dixon will hit the stores worldwide.
New Edition of The Little Black Jacket
While the book entitled The Little Black Jacket: Chanel's Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld came out in 2012 and its exhibition already toured cities all around the world, the newest edition is just about to be released this year. On 280 pages the book is paying tribute to Chanel's most iconic tweed jacket.
In January 2013 Karl Lagerfeld invited celebrities to his studio in Paris to shoot more images for the new edition of the book. Internationally well-known stars such as Keira Knightley and Diane Kruger reinterpreted the classic jacket and incorporated its look into their own personal style. The photos were taken by the fashion genius Karl Lagerfeld himself. On the official Chanel website the black and white photos can be seen in an interactive online gallery.
Candy L'Eau by Prada
There's a new girl in town – Candy. Prada's newest l'eau is hitting stores in April 2013 and it is much more than just a fragrance. It envisions the kind of girl that could be the next It-Girl. Independent and questioning the world, witty and intelligent, but also dreamy and sweet. The wearer gets to embody these qualities by just putting on a few drops of Candy – ultimately becoming Candy.
Along with the elegant cylinder shaped flacon in a rosé colour with the gilded Prada script, ZOO Magazine received a special book describing the Candy girl in detail. 'Candy from A to Z' finds matching attributes for every letter of the alphabet referring o the sweet fragrance itself or the kind of person it embodies. A like Armour, C like Caramel, J like Joie de Vivre, P like Party, U like Unpredictable.
It also hints the star of the ad campaign – L like Léa Seydoux. For the l'eau of Candy the French actress reprises as the coquettish woman with the even blonde fringe. The short film about Candy being torn between her two lovers Gene and Julius was shot by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola.
New Converse collections
by Rachel Marie Walsh
How many ways can Converse update their perennially popular Chuck Taylors? Well, this season they’re releasing several new lines with strong, creative themes. Well Worn boasts seven faded, retro-denim styles. The look harkens back to nostalgic American films such as My Girl and Stand By Me, where youngsters in scuffed sneakers experienced friendship, love and loss.
Other lines like Camouflage, Hawaiian and Animal answer questions like: “If a Chuck Taylor were an exotic holiday destination, what would it look like?" Jungle prints, hibiscus patterns and leopard prints showcase the colors of nature and Soho nightclubs.
Collaboration with Jack Purcell brings a touch of femininity, such as a pretty rose print on the plimsolls. Another line co-designed with Finnish brand Marimekko draws attention with crimson strawberry, clouds and spots. John Varvatos toughens things up New York-style, with zips, studs and monochrome colors.
All styles sport traditional chunky soles, breathable uppers and soft lining. You have to hand it to Converse - a brand that never stops reinterpreting a tried-and-true favorite.
Berlin Showroom Fall/Winter 2013-14
While Berlin it is not one of the world’s four principal fashion capitals, its designers are on the right way to establish themselves in the fashion scene. Aside from presenting their new collections at the bi-annual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, this season Berlin designers decided to bring their newest designs to Paris. The event called the Berlin Showroom was the first of its kind. It lasted for four days during Paris fashion week in the beginning of March.
23 designers were carefully selected to participate in the event, amongst them were already well-known designer as well as uprising newcomers. They came together and showcased their work in the Parisian “Espace Topographie de l’art” to over 600 visitors and press.
The professional environment guaranteed success for both designers and buyers, while the fresh feel and enthusiasm of the young event created an inspiring atmosphere. Hopefully the enthusiasm will endure until next season and so the first Berlin Showroom will not remain the last.
Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14
Stone grey is the essential colour of the Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, which just showed at the Mode Suisse Edition 3 in Zürich. The bi-annual Swiss fashion event is all about presenting established and young Swiss fashion brands in a simple and elegant way.
The runway show of Marc Stone was dominated by minimalist designs and clear shapes. Classic dress shirts in dark green, checkered wool jumpers, long open cardigans and simple, yet elegant blazers were some of the designs. Quilted cotton piqué for cowl neck jumpers and soft pants explores new shapes and use of material. Fine tailoring and high quality fabrics define the garments.
Large grey and black weekend bags as well as backpacks of luxurious leather are the accessories for winter time and will protect anything inside from snow and rain. Classic, yet modern the collection shows versatility and is worthy of being part of any man’s wardrobe.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-14
A massive globe was placed in the middle of the Chanel runway for the Fall/Winter 2013-14 show. Celebrating the opening of the first Chanel store one hundred years ago, the white Chanel logo was pinned onto the globe’s surface marking the location of 300 Chanel stores in cities all around the world. The show and collection displayed the power of the luxury fashion brand and none other than Karl Lagerfeld could phrase its theme better: "It’s a tribute to the global Chanel."
Even the floor of the Grand Palais had a the seven continents on it, so the models in Chanel’s garments were literally on top of the world. The collection had many dark shades to it – black, grey and navy instead of white and bright colours. Mini skirts, stand-up collars and skirts with unzipped zipper details played a huge part into the rebellious feel of the collection as did accessories such as clunky silver bangles, metal chains as necklaces and fingerless mesh gloves. Gold was replaced by silver, from metallic thread to steal chains gracing leather boots. Simple and clear A-line shapes were combined with overknee leather boots looking almost like leather leggings.
There were a variety of fabrics, but as always the classic Chanel bouclé and tweed still found their right place in the shapes of tailored jackets and coats. The double length coats – short in front, but with a below-knee tail – was one of the key designs of this season. The collection looked more contemporary than ever and yet again Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the strong self of the Chanel woman.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Inspired by the simplicity of beauty that was the key to the portraiture of the 17th century, the designers of Valentino created a one of a kind Fall/Winter collection for the cold days of 2013-14. Showing off long braids accessorized with simple black headbands, all models were styled the same, which brought out their individual beauty even more. Their pure porcelain skin and puppet like faces complemented the stunning range of garments.
The collection’s most essential fabric was lace. All kinds of delicate lace were used for floor length dresses, bibs, collars, applications and cuffs, adding subtle details to each design. One of the most prominent designs was a dress with long sleeves and a slightly flared skirt ending above the knee. Their either black, red or blue fabrics were the perfect contrast to the creme coloured lace bibs.
All in all the whole collection was all about skirts and dresses and rarely featured any trousers. Occasionally there were a few pleats as well as colourful dresses featuring scalloped hems and see-through fabric. Use of red and white fur, the later with black spots, reminded of royal ermine coats, while leather gave an edge to the sweet looking dresses. Capes with hoods and coats with clear cuts looked like they were from an enchanted tale. The enchanted feel of the collection was underlined by flowery patterns and glittering sequins. Yet again it was another excellent Valentino collection.
Camper Spring/Summer 2013
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Nothing was what it seemed on Bernhard Wilhelm’s Spring/Summer catwalk, what with the crazily-patterned grunge-chic and models in futuristic afros and foil masks. Then again, one of the designer’s long-term mantras is “chaos is beautiful.”
The shoes were a perfect match, in a blindingly clashing kind of way. Wilhelm's seasonal collaboration with Camper combines wild animal prints with chunky, unexpected soles and natural materials like cork. Conformity and provocation co-exist with a humorous disdain for the plain, as he pushes the boundaries of conventional footwear to create shocking shapes.
Since Wilhelm set up his brand (together with Jutta Kraus) in 1999, the Ulm, Germany-born designer has refused to be swayed by success. He continues to create an imaginative and wonderfully lunatic world playfully projected onto the Spanish brand’s footwear.
The stand-out shoes for women were zebra-print sandals with wildly outsized soles. With ankle-high upper and thong construction, these shoes are both a sandal and a boot, available as a flat or with the on-trend cylindrical heel. Both are lined with leather and rubber. The flagship sneaker for men and women is reinvented with neon camouflage or zebra and Dalmatian-print in black and white monochrome. The soles are boosted with sculpted, zigzag rubber inserts in contrasting colors. All are crazy-cool, just the way Campers should be.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
A unique simplicity has always been one of the essential element of Jil Sander's designs. Her new Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection stays true to her minimalist approach to fashion and clear cuts structure her garments.
Overknee length skirts of flowy light fabrics are part of this year's Fall/Winter collection as are sleeveless dresses with pleat details and deep v-necks. Other tops feature a neckline that resembles a cross between a boat neck and a v-neck. Coats with large pockets and an oversize fit, either worn open or with a belt to accentuate waist and hips, are the highlight of this collection. Their colours vary from a range of blues including navy and azure blue to a bright orange and yellow.
The collection's finale is made up of a number of simple black bandeau dresses with minimalist golden stripes and elegant coats of thick wool and fur. It is the epitome of pure and simple elegance. The signature minimalist design of Jil Sander at its best once again.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
With this Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Miuccia Prada paid tribute to designs she personally liked. Unusual to Prada, it was a very personal approach to creating fashion. Flared coats with round buttons and knee-length skirts with asymmetric cuts were key pieces of the collection. Essential was also the accentuation of sleeves and their puffy look with either pleats or furry details.
The theme of gingham check of Prada's menswear was continued in the womenswear collection. Playful coats in white, light pink and soft blue as well as colourful weekend bags and shoppers were made out of checkered fabrics. Yet the feel of this collection was more mysterious than its menswear counterpart. Dresses and coats were slightly unbuttoned, zippers of jackets and skirts slightly unzipped. Necklines from shoulder free to V-neck were revealing a layered styling and the tender skin of the models. Fine brown crocodile leather as well as shiny gold and silver patent leather added a little more glamour to the collection, as if the dresses covered in black sequins and the luxurious fur coats were not enough.
The models with wet hair look walked their choreographed path accross the runway with sophistication and silhouettes of seducing women and straying cats were projected onto the walls. The inspiration to this Prada collection might have been more emotional than usual, but it still displayed perfection in every garment.
Fire Etchings by Karl Lagerfeld
From oil painings to contemporary photography the portait is one particular form of art that artists have been fascinated with ever since. None other than Karl Lagerfeld has created one of the most recent responses to what contemporary portraiture could look like.
In his exhibition “Karl Lagerfeld: Fire Etchings“ at the Galerie Gmurzynska in St. Moritz, the fashion designer and photographer dicovers a whole new medium for portraiture by using backlit glass and etching images into its surface with fire.
The subjects of the glowing blue, yellow and white images are rapper Theophilus London as well as the models Freja Beha Erichsen and Aymeline Valade – Lagerfeld’s current muses. The exhibition is on display at the Galerie Gmurzynska until the 23rd of March and viewable seven days a week from 10-19 hrs. The gallery is located at Via Serlas 22, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland.
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013-14
Determined and with a confident walk the models at the Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show present the garments for the cold seasons to come. It was Francisco Coasta's goal to bring back the coat with this collection, and so he did.
His original inspiration came from a coat worn by the leading lady in the Russian movie Ivan's Childhood, which looked feminine and very tailored at the same time. The coats of this Calvin Klein collection have broad collars and reinforced shoulders, while at the same time waist belts and pleats keep the shape feminine.
The square golden buckles of the belts reappear on the toe-caps of the chic pumps, which are worn as an alternative to black patent leather boots. While thick twill fabric is used a lot, so is shiny leather for coats, dresses as well as tops with boat necks and cut-out backs. The look of a bandeau top is combined with a high waisted skirt to form a dress that reveals a little more skin than it should in winter time. However, black, creme, deep greens and blues are the ideal colours for the frosty season.
Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2013-14
Extreme Feminity is the theme of Jason Wu's Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. The idea behind it was to dress independent women instead of adolescent girls. Judging from the colours alone, they were more grown up than any of his collections before. The main colours ranged from black over silverish grey with black lace prints to white, while some garments were a warm caramel brown and bright red, just like the Jason Wu gown Michelle Obama donned for her husband's inauguration ball.
Wide collars competed against high buttoned up ones, furry details against feathery dresses. A clear feature of the outerwear were big pockets and lines of black buttons. A variation of black leather belts were worn around the waist of almost model, keeping the serious look together.
The styling was simple yet grown up – evenly parted hair and eyeliner-heavy make up. The scenerey of the runway show had an elegant look to it as well. A massive chandelier was hanging from the ceiling and shiny black tiles marked the path for the models to walk on. However, some garments undeniably retained a playful look with their see-through polka dot patterns and flying pleated skirts.
Raf Simons and Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2013
After successfully launching his Dior Haute Couture collection earlier in January, Raf Simons’ new collaboration is just around the corner – with Fred Perry. The designer’s vision meets commercial fashion and spices up the traditional tenniswear. The campaign’s first teaser video was just released.
Three young men find themselves in a white spaceless place. In slow motion they are swinging their arms around and bobbing up and down the video’s frame as if they were performing a very slow dance. With their soft hair and pure skin they look like lost boys. Jump cuts harmonize with the choppy electronic music of screeching sounds and cracking noise. Stressed and scared facial expressions give the video a tense atmosphere, which is in a way contrasting the smooth look of the classic Fred Perry polo shirt.
Eccentric leopard patterns in grey and rusty-red as well as bold blue-black houndstooth patterns cover the shirts, while the collars often stay in a classic black. In other frames of the teaser, the shirts are worn in a layered fashion and colourful collars compete with each other. To truly pay tribute to the collaboration even the logo has changed: Not Fred Perry’s name but the one of Raf Simons is written below the brand’s signature laurel wreath.
Pointer and COMME des GARÇONS Spring/Summer 2013
After last year's successful COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT and Pointer Footwear collaboration, they are pooling their talents once again for the new Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The classic Benjamin model is coming back in bright colours to be worn on sunny summer days.
Two different tri-coloured variations of the Benjamin will be available instead of the usual unicoloured model. One of the variations features a soft pink and an azure blue, while the other one features a deep green and luscious red.
The design of the shoe resembles a classic Derby or Blucher shoe, but at the same time it also passes as sportswear with its white slightly wedged cupsole. Looking dapper and athletic at the same time the shoe is easy to wear to many different occasions. All in all a relaxed yet smart package.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Provocations is the title of Calvin Klein’s Spring 2013 ad campaign and its star is Alexander Skarsgard. The Swedish actor most known for his role as1000-year old vampire in HBO’s True Blood appears alongside the Finnish model Suvi Koponen.
The Scandinavian couple is hot and sweaty wearing tight jeans in one scene, staring coldly at each other dressed in chic suits in the next. The entire campaign contains contrasting elements: Roaring fire in contrast to still black water surfaces. Modern symmetric architecture as the complete opposite of a shabby room furnished with an old TV set. Slow motion effects are used throughout the whole 10-minute clip, making fire explosions and the shattering of glass walls even more spectacular. The tiniest turquois glass splinters seem to be floating weightlessly through the air.
Each segment of the ad campaign has a different title: Part III. is entitled Wasting Time with Koponen daydreaming and chilling on the floor in a pair of skinny jeans. End Game is the name of another part with Skarsgard wearing a white suit and slowly lighting a match while staring at Koponen across the room. The campaign promotes garments, jeans and accessories by Calvin Klein all at the same time. The director of the film is Fabien Baron.
Stone Island S/S 2013 Night Glow Jacket
Some garments of the Stone Island Spring/Summer 2013 collection have a special feature: The ability to glow in the dark. Luminescence techniques have always been fascinating and now Stone Island is pushing them forward with their recent inventions.
The key to the glowing fabric is an extraordinary double-layered polyester piqué that captures light and reflects it when worn in complete darkness. A membrane inserted into the fabric prevents water and wind from entering and makes the jacket a perfect garment to wear outside on a dark and stormy night. Twelve items from hooded jackets over cardigans to waistcoats carry the glow in the dark fabric.
Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14
Golden light flooded the Galerie Thomas Schulte reminding of a setting sun when the Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14 show took over the space during Berlin Fashion Week. The presentation of the German-French label’s new collection was more than a mere runway show, but an installation entitled Somewhen lasting for about two hours.
The title refers to the mix of ethnic influences from different cultures and times. Interesting headpieces such as turbans, broad-brimmed hats with fluffy pompoms or tight hoods with sparkly fringes catch the eye at once. The collection is all black and features diverse fabrics from black leather to delicate see-through fabric including sequin or furry details.
The models’ nude make up and stern facial expressions put all emphasis on the garments and create a mysterious vibe at the same time.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
In John Varvatos' new campaign two generations of guitar virtuosos meet: For once it features the legendary rock guitarist Jimmy Page from Led Zepplin, undoubtedly one of the greatest rock and roll bands of all times. The 28-year old Gary Clark Jr. is his counterpart, a young emerging musician, who released his debut album last Fall and has already been widely praised for his talents as a guitarist, a singer and a songwriter.
“Having 'The Master' and the 'Young Guitar-Slinger' together in our campaign is a dream come true”, says the designer John Varvatos himself. The brand has ever since had an affinity for stylemakers within the rock'n'roll scene.
Photographer Danny Clinch captures the two musicians in a classic black and white portrait. Its simplicity gives the image even more impact. The scenery of the campaign is the famous 1950's concert venue Rivoli Ballroom in South London, where music legends like Tina Turner used to perform. The video clip was shot there as well and is worth taking a look at.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
Everything looks geometric. A clear structure is the key to the Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Inspired by the modernist Bauhaus architecture and design, the garments are equally well structured.
Pumping beats and a robotic voice serenaded the models' static walk down the runway, who resemble robots themselves. Square patterns and necklines are key elements of the collection and appear everywhere. Soft cashmere and wool yarns are woven into contradicting rectangular patterns.
All in all the collection has a very modern and sporty feel to it. Apart from black and beige, the dominant colours are a bright red, a shiny yellow and a deep blue. Back to the primary colours, back to the roots.
Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
For the Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2013 the Parisian Grand Palais was transformed into a forest: It seemed like tall trees had grown out of the floor surrounding a beautiful amphitheatre overlooking the whole scenery. On a winding path the models made their way through the forest looking stunningly elegant – in thigh high boots out of silver leather or toeless delicate lace.
Through the whole collection an accent on the the neck and the shoulders can be seen. Necklines below the shoulders show a bare neck as a sign of pure and gracile beauty, but square applications on the shoulders and upper arms give the upper body a contrary strong look. Long sequin covered gowns, tulle and lace hems are essential parts of the collection as well. While the show started off with fabrics such as tweed and bouclé, the show finishes of with dresses made of thousands of feathers complementing the feathery hairpieces of the models and the birdsong heard among the trees.
The presentation of the wedding dress makes a clear statement about the ongoing disputes concerning the legalization of gay marriage in France. Only two weeks back hundreds of thousands of people demonstrated near the Eiffel Tower opposing gay marriage, but yesterday two models in the same wedding dress were holding each other's hands while walking down the runway. Lagerfeld's godson accompanied both of them and gave expression to the designer's thoughts on gay marriage and gay parents raising children.
Cerruti 1881 Fall/Winter 2013-14
What do you get when an Italian founds and builds a house in Paris? The answer, today, was Cerruti 1881. Long coats in classic colours - black, navy, and camel - were elegant and looked made to match anything. But details - like buttons lining up slyly in the back, a few inches from the hem upwards; or leather-trimmed lapels that in black felt dramatic - were a touch of rebelliousness that felt in line with Paris collections.
Black coats, one in a formfitting suede with a mandarin collar, and another one hooded and loose enough to hide in, added to an aesthetic that seemed to be on a quest for individuality. Subdued sweaters and trousers - ‘basics’ - then reigned this spirit in. And so teetering on a line between very wearable and and a tad bit developmental, the show came to a close, leaving the question of where new designer Aldo Maria Camillo will take the brand in the future.
Rick Owens' angels of the street
Rick Owens returned to the street for his fall/winter 2013-2014 collection after some time spent in the couture-area. The balance he found this season was exceptional, starting with the way the hair of the models was styled. Long-haired boys had frizzed hair creating a romantic image as they passed with red or blond clouds flowing around them. The collection started with an A-line silhouette and big sleeves, making it at some point hard to tell they were soldiers or angels, or maybe both. Last season there was no trouser to be found, with the models only wearing floor-length skirts, but this season the skinny trouser made a comeback, tucked into big and chunky boots. Obviously, graphic forms are a staple in Owens' work, this time created by shrugs tightened around the shoulder and reveresed colars, pointing upward. Two oversized tanktops, one in stiff cotton and the other in black fur, made for exciting silhouettes, reminding of the collections back in the nineties that promised nothing but good to come for menswear.
BOSS Pre-Fall 2016
Rigorous, precise, focused. Natural, but abstract. Luxurious – and classic. With the Pre-Fall Lookbook 2016, Jason Wu has unveiled another cutting edge collection that comprises sophisticated looks with a modern and noiseless message. Whether it's with the slim coat, the A-line skirt or the pant, Wu re-engineers new classic into a contemporary wardrobe for the BOSS woman.
Business and leisure are balanced out equally, with a Hitchcockian flair contrasting the image of sportswear. As often, Wu is keen to incorporate a flair of menswear and does so in applying metal rings and fastenings, which simultaneously suggest a vibrant and energetic feel. Even if this collection is a red carpet for simplicity and urbanity, Wu still does not cease to go down a more lighthearted route and inserts floral patterns that in their assembly allude to camouflage.
The key element of functionality is furthermore not only highlighted in Bauhaus inspiration but also in flat shoes and other understated accessories. It's rigorous, it's precise, it's focused – BOSS just knows how to wrap a collection.
Versus Versace Fall 16
With its Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Versus Versace has unleashed a collection that is marked by toughness and an almost invincible spirit. Revisited camouflage prints, zip-up bombers, coats and cargo pants define the season for both men and women and embody the strong attitude that lies beneath this collection. For women, Versus plays with tomboy toughness by including loose fit jeans and flat ankle boots in the range. As camouflage is reimagined with the Versus lion head, the camo shirt meanwhile becomes the new city essential for the man. Both lines include pieces with a fierce attitude, such as a fur-collared blouson in menswear or a diamond slashed lingerie top for women. The urban conquest has been a sub-theme for a number of collections these past season and this collection sees Versus Versace join the trend wagon. Whether you need to fight the city jungle or just want to top off your fearlessness – Versus Versace is the gear to chose.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016
A trip inside the mind of Karl Lagerfeld must feel like an hourlong guided tour through the world's biggest museum. His creative mind, or the ones behind it, is like an infinite archive with multiple crossings, shortcuts and junctions. Therefore, it is no surprise that even after decades, the maestro still finds a way to put a spin on the very, very classic brand that is CHANEL. Still, a CHANEL presentation these days sometimes holds more surprise in the setting than in the fashion on display. This time, though, Lagerfeld stepped away from themes and backdrops and onto the “real” runway. On there, he showed classic CHANEL elements, from tweed-tops to tartan trousers, and one everlasting classic accessory: the impeccable, traditional CHANEL pearl necklace, worn in multiple layers on numerous looks. Topped off with a French twist on a bowler hat, it's maybe the accessories that deem this collection contemporary. However, the choice of colors also checks off everything that is on the line for this season: starting off with shades and combos of pink, the collection then moves onto dark blues and greys, to a range of beige and nude tones, only to end with a – what else- classic rendition of black-and-white looks. That trip to Lagerfeld's mind really must be quite the voyage. Where do we sign up?
John Galliano Fall/Winter 2016/17
The expression of “mix and match” usually recalls bright colors, eccentric patterns and wild fabric combinations. This might well be the case with many brands, but not with John Galliano.
For their latest Fall/Winter collection, the brand applied the “mix and match” theme, but with strict limitation to expression (one thing the Galliano name usually is not known for).
On the runway, viewers saw subtly stunning looks, created from a mixture of femininity and its counterpart, with dresses playing as big as a part as masculine shirts and blazers. It is the thought-out combination of pieces that gives this collection it's identity - it's the Galliano form of mix and match.
This season, Galliano is where the satin dress meets high-top sneakers, where the regalia-embellished jacket is teamed with see-through skirts, where Sporty Spice meets Jane Austen. Regarding the color palette, the search for bold and flashing tones will yield no results. The fabric selection is equally as toned-down and patterns are rather sprinkled than plattered. With John Galliano, it's a mixture - and it matches.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2016
At Paris' École de Medecin, the presentation of Lemaire's Fall/Winter designs had a clean spirit to it. Not, as one may conclude, as in white doctor gowns and sterile objects (due to the choice of location), but clean in a sensual and stylish way, paying tribute to past decades with only so little references. This collection was basically just black-and-cream white, there is no other way of putting it. Once every now and then, a splash of color in a shoulder strap bag or a boxy, grey jacket may interrupt the monochrome, but overall, Christophe Lemaire and his work/life-partner Sarah Linh-Tran stuck to the simple aesthetic. There were button rows that remind of dotted lines in documents, subtle pleats and not-so-subtle puffy sleeves on knitted sweaters (here chimes in the Elizabethan reference). Limitedly messy hairstyles emphasized the nonchalant attitude, while the models' strut down the catwalk still emphasized the core confidence to this collection. For Lemaire, this Fall/Winter 2016 is wrapped, or, to put it medically, operation complete.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Paul Smith Women F/W 16
The Fall/Winter 2016 season sees Paul Smith once again turn towards the past. The British designer is the master of archive work and reinvention, and so it comes as no surprise that he applied it once again to his latest designs. The garments resemble a walk through an archive closet, with Paul Smith creatively picking his inspirations here and there. This time, they start in a very private closet: the one of his wife Pauline. Smith creates the image of a handsome woman with a nod to the sophisticated femininity he originally created from his men collections. Smith goes back to the 1970s and 80s, back when he was just starting out. From the latter decade, he takes the photo-print of an eaten apple and reworks it into prints, embroidery and appliqués in various scales. He also makes a halt at his own closet and takes on bicycle breeches. Those are met with raglan-sleeved coats and embroidered pleat dresses. Regarding accessories, the designer once again goes “way back”: all bags are equipped with new locks, taken from an old Paul Smith briefcase. Rework, revamp, refurbish – however Paul Smith does it, the journey to the past is always an exciting one.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Rodarte RTW Fall 16
Even though there was no birthday song (at least not on the catwalk) in New York City, it is time to congratulate Rodarte on 10 years of success in the fashion business. The sister duo celebrated their first decade of design with their latest Fall/Winter 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week. For Kate and Laura Mulleavy, though, celebration doesn’t come in form of cakes and birthday songs. Their personal birthday cake were the garments presented on the runway. And if there is one theme to be picked, it’s ruffles, ruffles and…ruffles. Applied vertically or horizontal, diagonal, with a straight edge or in shaped waves: the ruffles embody the fantasy element in Rodarte’s designs. Those elements, to be noted, don’t drift away into dreaminess, though. The secret ingredient to this birthday cake is the casual sincerity, the mix-up of fantasy elements and street-ready pieces. For that, all the Mulleavy sister need are their usual rich palette of materials, this season completed by some fur, used in their balanced level of experimentalism and stylish design. Happy Birthday Rodarte, let’s hope your creators get some time to enjoy some actual birthday cake.
McQ F/W 16/17
While the world was buzzing with talk about fashion shows and the upcoming award ceremonies, Thursday, February 11th, 2016, saw the revelation of McQ’s new F/W 16 Digital Presentation. The date of the reveal lined up with Alexander McQueen’s sixth death anniversary, to which the brand had paid tribute before in a post on their instagram. It is also on their social media and website that McQ chose to release the campaign in an all-round digital presentation. Consisting of documentary photography by Caroline Södergren, character studies by Jack Davison and short films by Shorna Osborne, the campaign aims to highlight the collection at every angle. The designs themselves combine the brand’s rebellious attitude with ready-to-wear style that lets each item unfold in its own measure. Womenswear is influenced by Japanese culture, in particular the dance and strip clubs of Shinjuku, Tokyo, in the 1970s and 80s. Leather is a central player in motorcycle jackets and capes. Another reference to Tokyo is made in floral prints that were mainly inspired by Japanese kimonos. The go-to accessoire for the McQ Misses is the overknee boot, available in various colors and materials. Surprisingly, this is where the collection interlocks with the menswear designs: Mister McQ also sports overknee footwear, only for him laced up and thick-soled as in 90s culture. The menswear designs furthermore reference Phyllis Galembo's book MASKE which revolves around African tribe culture. In honor of fusing new and old worlds, McQ takes this to intertwine African patterns with its heritage Scottish Fairisle tartan. The McQ man is both the grown-up realist and the adolescent free spirit. The world might be buzzing about many things, but from Thursday on, McQ is up on the agenda.
RedValentino Spring/Summer Campaign feat. Birdy
She’s the girl with the angel voice, the delicate songstress that made hits at an age where others were concerned with anything but landing record deals: Birdy. Now, the 19-year old British singer has been tapped for a fashion campaign. Valentino sublabel REDValentino cast the singer as their new testimonial. The scenery takes her to London’s Edwardian theater Bush Hall. In the dimly-lit setting, Birdy moves like the grande dame, or as Valentino puts it, a modern-day Marie Antoinette. Never dropping her ethereal and dreamy attitude, she poses on a piano in shiny black gear or takes the stage dressed in a floral see-through dress. “I love the enchanted world of REDValentino and the romantic dresses that have always been associated with the brand, so I was delighted to be part of this collaboration and to have my music in the campaign” Birdy gushed over the campaign. By her music she means her song Winter playing in the background, supporting the both romantic and magical atmosphere. Least to say, we’re enchanted, too.
The campaign is launched exclusively on www.redvalentino.com.
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
Balmain Pre-Fall 2016
If in 2016, a queen would have to hire a dressmaker, she would probably call up Olivier Rousteing. And after the reveal of his latest Pre-Fall collection, there is no doubt that the French designer would definitely be up for it. After all, his inspiration came from a time when there actually were queens with tailors belonging to the establishment. With the new designs, Olivier Rousteing takes us to the court of Versailles in the 18th century and into the boudouir of the legendary Madame Pompadour. Her sensual and elegant styles were a major influence to Rousteing, for in this collection, her signature silhouette finds itself in various riffs on the corset. Versailles opulence finds reflection in the luxurious fabrics like a variety of cashmeres, Jacquards, silks and paisleys. Madame Pompadour was known as a lover of details, so the tailor delivers beaded fringes, hanging tassels, thick ruffles and bold gold accents. Still, it's not just a history lesson Rousteing teaches us. Balmain is made for the modern woman, the confident fighter who is inspired by the bravery of the likes of Madame Pompadour. If we'll meet her, we'll curtsy. It seems the only right thing to do.
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Baldessarini F/W 16/17
Baldessarini caters to the confident man about town, providing him with classic and elegant wardrobe staples rather than trendy throwaways. Key to success are craftsmanship and high-end materials, combined with a sustainable production centered in Europe. By no means is Baldessarini’s FW 16/17 collection old-fashioned though: Yes, designs are predictably dapper. Why would you change a running system? Here and there, noticeably younger items turned the collection on it’s ear: rough leather pants, sheepskin jackets, sweats with smart jackets and ties all carried a youthful vibe onto that runway. Aside from sweaters, turtlenecks were big, worn under crisp button-downs or suits. For one-stop shoppers, the label offers a complete range including scarfs, gauntlets and hats. Stripes and checks livened up an otherwise muted color palette of black, grey, blue, green, oxblood and beige, adding some well-received youthfulness to Baldessarini’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin debut.
Vladimir Karaleev Fall/Winter 16/17
For his first show during MBFWB since July 2014, Vladimir Karaleev hit a high note with his intricate construction and easy breezy styling. His expertly crafted, sculptural designs were set in a presentation rather than a runway show – a no-brainer considering Karaleev’s pieces are more of an art installation than a nod to fast fashion. His FW 16/17 designs combine touches of cubism, mod-style and origami, resulting in exciting plays on volume, fabrics, and personal style. Each piece is in itself glorious and intriguing, yet full of possibilities in terms of combination. Grey, black, midnight blue and petrol, deep magenta, mauve and mustard could easily be overwhelming, yet Vladimir Karaleev has nuance and the masterful eye of an artist. Here’s to hoping he won’t hold out on us for another season or two.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Versace Men F/W 2016
Versace certainly isn’t only known but also loved for their eccentricity. For decades, the creative minds behind the brand have proved to be unlimited in their creative innovation. With the latest menswear collection, introduced at Milan’s Men Fashion Week, Creative Director Donatella Versace presented yet another take on their anything-but-quiet attitude. For the latest designs, the Italian brand shot off into space. It’s Versace-on-the-mars with futuristic metallic looks, astronaut-inspired sweatshirts and astrological prints. Additionally, the collection features all that is in style on planet earth right now: tracksuits, MA-1 jackets, cropped leather jackets and, of course, just the right amount of denim. “The Versace man is a pioneer, his ambition as big as the universe. This is a collection for men who are totally real, totally bold and totally connected with the future.”, Donatella Versace commented. Houston, we don’t see a problem here!
Antonio Marras F/W16 Collection
Cowboys, Indians, gold prospectors, saloon girls. Tumbleweeds, dusty roads, no life in sight, apart from a few wild horses, lizards and the occasional mosquito buzzing near your ear. We’re thinking of the Wild West, thinking of Colorado, maybe, or some nameless town in the outskirts of the US. We’re wrong. Antonio Marras has taken the latest collection to the West, but it’s not western at all: the location in mind is in Sardinia. Illustrating the picture of a rural ghost town, the brand reinvented the motif of the Wild West by dislocating it to the Italian south. Inspired by this abandoned place in Sardinia, the designs feature a new take on the cowboy look with mélange sweaters, plaid trousers and a lot of checks. Intarsia shirts and velvet trousers dislocate the traditional idea of Wild West as much as the actual location. They are teamed up with patchwork jeans or denim overalls, biker jackets or floral jacquard fabrics. Colors range from moss, forest and military greens to red and mustard, forming an eclectic mix for a collection that can’t possibly be narrowed down to one definition. There is no need for definition, though, as we know, that with a Wild West in Sardinia, the things are not what we define them as anyway. Open your mind to new definitions. Antonio Marras certainly does.
Marni Men Fall/Winter 2016
Marni’s Fall/Winter 2016 is a swift motion between balanced elegance and subtle rebellions against clothing classics. On one hand, the brand presents soft and elegant silhouettes and suggests intimacy with this collection’s number one theme: wrapping. On the other hand, raw cuts also convey strength. Suits are still precisely tailored and the use of fur provides some texture. Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a fashion collection by the first impression. Caps and sneakers that contradict the elegance of the garments make another break in balance. The collection’s color palette adds in elegance and subtleness with blues, greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. We told you it was a swift movement. And with Marni, you just go along easily.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Emporio Armani gets it moving: the images for their latest SS16 campaign are in, and they are anything but static. Captured by Lachlan Bailey in the buzzing streets of Barcelona, models Luna Bijl and Filip Hrivnak are shown in physically demanding poses, posing as the fierce, self-confident woman or the ever-charismatic gentleman. Bailey used a telephoto lens, usually known from nature photography, to capture the spontaneity and dynamism even more. The visuals convey a message of utter coolness and suggest that for Emporio Armani, the most thrilling summer lies ahead. The general look is a classic take on minimalist coolness, but some garments with graphic elements stir up the sophistication with a little irony. And for those who adore the Emporio Armani accessories, the campaign also has watches and eyewear in store. Now, if January makes you feel drained and moody right now, just look ahead to a dynamic summer – Emporio Armani will show you how.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Nasir Mazhar FW 2016
There are few things as fascinating and endless as the darkness. Its space of interpretation appears to be as vast as the darkness itself. Inevitably, the inspiration drawn from the dark is equally as tremendous. London designer Nasir Mazhar took this as a chance to dive into the deep and uncertain – and returns with his FW 2016 collection. His latest designs imagine a club world of individual characters, unified by darkness. A group that shifts in varying shades of black. Black - a color that ties together wide experiments in shapes and textures. Apart from this floating unison, each outfit stays an entirely separate project. Whether it’s strapped tops, crumpled looks or extraordinary headwear, Mazhir’s collection leaves as vast room for interpretation as the darkness. He recalls the creative freedom of his non-commercial, purely creative beginning. An approach that has been featured for the second consecutive season, as long-planned changes for the brand are set to be revealed. Who knows what they’re going to be – as for now, we only know that Mr. Mazhar sure loves a bit of uncertainty. Just like the darkness.
DIESEL Goes Emoji
The wink-face, the monkey, or rather just the thumbs up – what's your favorite emoji? Don't deny it, you have one. Emojis have become the new sign language, a universal communication system that everyone in the world can understand. Whereas other fashion labels in the past have taken this as an inspiration to paste the tiny symbols onto their clothing, DIESEL winks at us and creates their own emoji alphabet for their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. At first sight, the visuals are clearly an established fashion campaign – but with the slogan comes the twist. „It's complicated“ is adorned with little couple symbols while the expression „holy denim“ is reinforced by – of course – a praying emoji. For DIESEL Creative Director Nicola Formichetti, this campaign is a comment on our digital culture, the absurdities that define our on- and offline life. The digital world is more real than reality and has become a next-level superpower. No part is to be disregarded: the moving intimates visuals will also play on the world’s most important porn sites. The campaign's faces are also no strangers to the digital world and it's open-minded spectrum. Model Stav Strashko, who was born male but identifies as a girl, rejoices in the gender diversity now most prominent in the digital world. Singer Joe Jonas poses alongside his colleague Kiko Mizuhara and his band DNCE. Now where did Formichetti find this pool of beaming faces? Your guess is correct, online. We clap our hands to that. Not literally. The emoji. You know.
Moschino feat. Gilbert & George: FW Men 16
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott might just be one of the most contemporary designers of our time. After having incorporated the world of fast food chains and Barbie dolls in his past designs, with the AW 16 menswear collection, he is onto the next collaboration. This time, only, it’s art. Scott met up with artist duo Gilbert & George and, after a round of tea, was granted full access to their artworks for the new Moschino collection. The designer jumped at the possibility and therefore included everything he could: the new designs feature collaged coats, knit cardigans and jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. Typography, words and phrases have also been taken along. Other garments are peppered with crucifix patches that refer to G&G’s 1982 art piece “Youth Faith”. According to Scott, everything in Gilbert & George’s work speaks to him, from the saturated colors to the slogans and provocative attitude. Well, this could just be a match made in heaven.
Neutral Party: Richert Beil FW15
Gender neutrality is the design world’s (current) darling. Labels little and large are trying their hand at unisex apparel, but that doesn’t mean they’re any good at it. So often it’s an indiscriminate approach they take, meeting the needs of many but flattering no one. But men and women are approaching a mid-point from two very different starting points; the solution cannot be one-size-fits-all. No, it takes a skilled eye and strident instinct to tailor a collection to both sexes with success – that’s where Richert Beil comes in. The brainchild of Berlin-based designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the label lauds an erudite aesthetic irrespective of gender, sympathetic to the structural, social, and emotional subtleties that have so far mantled man and woman. Ankle-grazing slacks prove a universal staple – smart with a sexy sensibility. Knits take neutral but directional dimensions, sweaters understated in their elaboration, chunky tabards tossed over stitched skirts. Longline macs layer their enduring appeal over culottes, kilts, and tunics, while coltish calves are slicked by black stockings and bolstered with sturdy leather lace-ups. Now there’s a style to suit all.
Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2016 Collection
It’s time for the next Pre-Fall revelation. Next in line is the Italian master of tailoring, Giorgio Armani. Titled “Bohemian Rhapsody”, the new collection features everything from city chic to floral bohemian vibes. That’s right, it’s not all dreamy and mysterious: Armani stays right on track of time while referencing his own unique style with a cheeky wink. The Pre-Fall collection resembles the closet of a very stylish clique, with each member sporting her own, unique look. Very much the latest innovation comes in form of cut-just-above-the-ankle legwear, optionally also featured as cuffed pleated trousers. While certainly this supports a “city” vibe, floral dresses and fuzzy artistic coats bring the splash of bohemia. After all, variety is key. With this collection, Armani also keeps things quite casual – flowing valance dresses are combined with flat boots. If you opt for a more eye-catching look, check out the garments with shiny pinstripes. Finally, the collection is rounded up with the one fabric that should not be missing in a fall collection: elegant velvet. Now, without a doubt, we would love to have a look in that clique’s closet, too.
Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
CHANEL’S City Western SS16 Campaign
To be honest, the fashion world is spinning so fast that sometimes, one has trouble to keep up. Think CHANEL. One minute, we’re still reminiscing about their iconic airport show, the next we’ve already taken off! Destination: Wild West, but also the city. The latest SS16 campaign combines both: CHANEL’s City Western. The French brand premiered the new RTW and accessories campaign with two mini feature films. In it, models Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz take on the empty streets of Brooklyn, New York. Their favorite travel accessory: the “Coco case” cabin case. The main collection’s visuals were shot by Karl Lagerfeld himself and feature ethereal and colorful silhouettes. Montero and Arganaraz wander about in eccentric print combinations, oozing sophistication and effortless coolness. Functional-but-chic accessories that range from the all-essential cabin case to floating silk scarves complete their look. The only thing missing? A stylish lasso, maybe. It’s the Wild West, after all.
J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall 2016
For his latest Pre-Fall collection, British designer Jonathan Anderson has channeled his inner medieval expert. Most noticeable are the leg-of-mutton sleeves featured on woolen jumpers and a short, bolero-style leather jacket. Combined with voluminous trousers that also recall clothing from past centuries, the designer has successfully transferred our ancestors into the present. These references stand alongside a shiny, tracksuit-inspired combination with blown-up, patched pockets that make room for whatever today’s fashionista has to carry. The collection’s dresses once again are reminiscent of ancient clothing: they remind of habits, only to be transferred into the present by stitched pleats and ruffles. The key accessory comes in form of the “Pierce” bag, that without a doubt lives up to its name: the clasp indeed recalls certain body jewelry. Who knew that one day, medieval sleeves and piercings could go along so well? And for that, ladies and gentlemen, we have J.W. Anderson.
Copyright: J.W. Anderson
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
Fred Perry: Annual Traditions
With Christmas approaching faster each day, fashion brand Fred Perry takes a trip down memory lane to focus on what is most present this time of the year: annual traditions. Be it personal rituals, lists, journeys, even those late nights spent reminiscing – traditions are a vast field to explore. In support of their Annual Traditions campaign, this year’s festive season sees Fred Perry celebrate traditions with a short film narrated by English actress Vicky McClure. Focusing on social media, Annual Traditions invites fans of Fred Perry to post their own festive traditions adorned with the hashtag #AnnualTraditions. The campaign will also feature curated imagery all around traditions – which unmistakably are also a huge part of Fred Perry clothing. Nevertheless, celebrating rituals and routines does not only mean looking back: the brand’s slogan captures our traditions in their most true form: always different, always the same.
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Zadig&Voltaire Launch Candide Bag
Named after the Voltarian hero, the brand new Candide Bag is destined for cult status. Complete with biker quilting, a stitched Zadig&Voltaire logo and an off-centre padlock, Cecilia Bönström has designed an urban piece that symbolizes the label – think Parisian chic meets edgy rocker. If this wasn’t enough, the made-in-Italy, striking bag is realized with Fall/Winter versions, solidifying its iconic status for the label. Available in three sizes and a chic selection of red, black and khaki suede and leather, the Candide Bag fits the needs of the modern Zadig&Voltaire woman. We want.
Say Goodbye to Blood Diamonds
“All human beings are born free and equal in dignity”. It was December 10, 1948 when the U.N. proclaimed in Paris the “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” (UDHR). However, there are countless places in the world where basic, personal rights are not respected in any way.
Gilardy Jewels aim to tackle this head on and produce beautiful jewelry that does not come with the usual price tag of someone else’s integrity. In celebration of the UDHR, they create timeless pieces to be worn by everyone, from anywhere on any occasion, whilst supporting various organizations that fight for human rights, such as Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. The Gilardy Human Rights collection consists of rings, charms, wristbands and bracelets, all made in a robust stainless steel. Free of nickel, this jewelry is extremely dermatologically friendly and its rings and engravings are manufactured by fairly employing disabled workers. Furthermore, for every ring or chain sold from the collection, Gilardy Jewels donate 5€ to the “Human Rights Watch" Organisation, for every bracelet they donate 3€. All in all, this unique label is giving their wearers something to be proud about, fine handcrafted jewelry that is complete with a conscious.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Rick Owens Unveils New Hollywood Boutique
With the aim to create something truly “Cecil B. Demille worthy”, a 450 square meter warehouse on La Brea, dating since the 1920s, has been renovated with the help of Owens’ long time architect-of-choice, Anna Tumaini.
Together they have created something outlandish and abstract, in a tribute to the epic biblical movies that Owens watched as a child. He claims these movies have proved huge to be huge sources of inspiration for him throughout his life with “doomed heroic purity in black and grey draped robes in huge, dusty marble temples”.
In representing this imagery, the La Brea boutique contains high ceilings, huge angular beams and the label’s signature fog glass tank, which by engulfing the room fills it with “a billowing ejaculation of fog every 5 minutes”. Not only this but there is also Owens’ own dramatic reinterpretation of a swimming pool that tantalizingly releases slow motion bubbles…The boutique is located in L.A. after all.
Akris Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
This season in Paris saw Albert Kriemler enlist Sou Fujimoto, a Japanese architect, in creating innovative fabrics for his latest collection. You’ll get no prizes for guessing which theme the collection was made in respect to: architecture.
The usually, ultra minimal effect of Kriemler’s vision was spruced up somewhat with these textured fabrics and insistent peeping window holes featured on tunic tops and dresses. Geometric lines cut across asymmetric shapes amidst a wealth of fine tailoring and chic silhouettes. Altogether, this made for a modernistic collection unusual to Kriemler’s typical approach.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It’s clean lines, geometric shapes and sleek silhouettes at Hermès this season.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski recovered the label’s heritage in bringing back leather once again this season in various midi length skirts, coats and dresses. Trainers appearing in white, blue, ochre yellow and red will surely prove to be a hit in store, not to mention the tailored longline coats.
Oversized stone jewelry adds drama to the understated collection, whilst Vanhee-Cybulski’s beautiful palette of colors elevates this understated collection to the height of Spring/Summer elegance.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Comme Des Garçons Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Ready-to-wear” is not a phrase that means much to Rei Kawakubo. The enchanting “witch” collection from the most anti-commercial label in fashion wass both baffling and exciting.
Silhouettes were magnificent, with ruffles and feathers galore. Shoes were stereotypically “witchy” pointed boots whilst deranged hair was coloured vivid red to offset the dramatic looks.
Luckily, Adrian Joffe was on hand to explain more, with the idea of witches referencing “Powerful women who are misunderstood, but do good in the world” – potentially also referring to Kawakubo herself.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Lo-fi, sci-fi” is John Galliano’s latest collection for Maison Margiela. An eclectic assortment of references, the designer’s otherworldly show saw the union of the vintage 50s, a futuristic space age and traditional Japan.
A turquoise beehive, leopard print collar 50s style coat and silver make up à la Pat McGrath; it began with a psychedelic bang. Next came fishnet limbs, appliqued glass fragments with an over layer of mesh. All oddly ready to wear for Galliano, we were later introduced to his reinterpretation of kimonos. Liquid-look skirts dripping in applique grazed the ankles and appeared among beautiful prints and obis in creating kimono-style silhouettes… This enthralling collection has the Galliano stamp all over it and it is spectacular.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
In a surreal Parisian show, “Le Nez Rouge” came complete with ginormous balls of fabric, a barefooted child in a man’s shirt and the designer himself leading a horse down the runway.
The collection itself was outstanding. Heavily deconstructed suits resulted in asymmetric lines and contemporary shapes in the label’s signature style. Crisp shirts and tailored trousers appeared in the designer’s trusted palette of navy, white, grey and red.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
If it was blue last season then it was orange this one at Emporio Armani. Well with a majority neutral palette throughout, he ended the show with a vibrant orange, evocative of a summer sunset.
Continuing with a casual trend to his clothes, this line sees a fluid transition from androgynous looks to decidedly feminine ones, from eighties inspired power dressing to nineties sports-inspired leisure wear. With the adoption of a number of shapes, a stand out are the ruffled suit trousers that cinch in with a belt buckle.
Blumarine Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
A jewel encrusted, court-studded, floral print explosion of sheer netting, draped fabrics and relaxed jackets is occurring at Blumarine this season. Anna Molinari has let her imagination run wild and created a collection in which two worlds collide, those of surrealism and reality.
Take billowing satins or sheer printed skirts against simplistic ribbed jumpers and oversized coats. This fusion of ornate decoration and modern minimalism creates a look of ethereal elegance finding its feet in an urban world.
Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Seemingly having had sourced inspiration from a documentary depicting one man’s travel through Western Australia, the undertone to Gaia Trussardi’s latest collection is of exploration and survival.
Longline jackets and shirts sail over matching linen trousers, all with distressed raw edges, appear as though they have withstood the harshest of elements of a desert. There is patchwork, layering and leather all realized in a warm, earthy palette and slouchy silhouettes.
Amidst all of this, Trussardi is having a somewhat vintage moment, with beaded dresses and waistbands and a nostalgic pendant necklace featuring in every look. The culmination of which is a collection fusing roughness with luxury, a novel interpretation of shabby-chic.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Opposing retro at all costs, Karl Lagerfeld implies that there are no references in his latest Fendi collection. The puffed up sleeves, the high neck collars and the repeated latticing are puzzling... With coral, oversized leather sleeves and a pleated maroon skirt that flows to the ankles, I can’t decide if we’re in the eighties or the Renaissance, with look 16.
Lagerfeld incorporates a diverse number of silhouettes, fabrics and colors into the collection and more often than not with this one it really seems as though they shouldn’t work together… Somehow though, they definitely do.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
As promised, Philipp Plein has delivered another rock-pop spectacle with his show at MFW. Studded boots, a robot-backed Courtney Love performance and Black Swan style tutus, it is Terminator meets eighties Rock God and conjures up memories of his SS16 menswear line.
Leather biker jackets, emblazoned with patchwork badges reading quotes like “GOD SAVE HIP ROCK”, are covered in his signature studs and teamed with slinky metallic dresses.
With technology being a key ingredient to this collection, models walking the catwalk as if on a conveyor belt… This was of course after a robot had accessorized them.
Thomas Tait Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
At a first glance, the label’s latest collection seems somewhat odd. Look again and you cannot miss the relentless repetition of a spherical cutout motif, giving the collection many facets.
At times it is tribal, at other times, with the incorporation of A-Line dresses and flares, it is reminiscent of the retro sixties and seventies. In manipulating it into a geometrical pattern on jackets, it seems inspired by industrial design.
His choice of positioning the “peephole” motif in almost every location on the clothes creates a sense of what Tait deems “awkward intimacy”. Put all of these different perspectives of influence together and you are left with one unstoppable force of contemporary design.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Open shirt-dresses peeling off model’s shoulders, undone fastenings and asymmetric hems overtly hint at the inspiration behind this season’s Proenza Schouler Collection.
Indeed, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough claimed it was “a peeling banana” that influenced the label’s luxurious ready-to-wear line. Makes sense doesn’t it? Already a clever collection, its combination of interesting shapes, textures and colors make it a beautiful one too. Mix in some ruffles, pom poms and feathers, and you are left with an ultra-feminine, contemporary line with a hint of Spanish influence.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
Acne Studios Embrace Change with Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Adopting fashion’s recent shift away from gender distinctive clothing toward current trends of gender blurring and androgyny, Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has featured his 11-year-old son Frasse in the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Shot by Viviane Sassen, the ad sees the preteen football fanatic tottering about in heels and a number of coats from the new womenswear collection – looking unnervingly cool whilst doing so.
In a recent statement, Jonny Johansson said “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather than seeking approval from society or to follow set norms.” The outdoor ad will appear in major cities New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong.
PARIS XVIE: A Short Film for Dior Homme
Yesterday saw Dior Homme unveil its latest collaboration between artistic director Kris Van Assche and photographer Willy Vanderperre. “PARIS XVIE” is a short film exploring what it means to be this season’s Dior man, with actor Boyd Holbrook guiding us through a day in Paris.
Wearing a tuxedo whilst exploring the depth of Paris’ urban landscape, Holbrook is charmingly confident. Playing a harmonica as he wanders through the streets and picking up flowers as small souvenirs, his pensive expression draws a certain curiosity about him. Toward the end of the film, as a nod to the stylized, cinematic screens of Hollywood, we see him dance around the room and walk under the lights of Paris at nightfall… A clever mix of old and new, this season’s Dior man must be witty, romantic and self-deprecating. PARIS XVIE is online now and accompanied by a still image campaign.
Tiger of Sweden Jeans Pop-Up Store in Central Copenhagen
Just this afternoon Tiger of Sweden / Jeans opened a brand new pop-up store in the heart of Copenhagen. Landing in perfect timing for Fashion Week, it stocks the Tiger Jeans A/W 2015 collection for both guys and girls. This collection exudes the brooding edge that Tiger of Sweden Jeans prides itself upon, using a combination of “minimalistic expression with a dark, dreamlike print” in creating looks.
According to Fredrik Folkesson, who is Product Manager for the brand, Tiger Jeans has evolved massively over time, since its birth in 2001. After departing from the larger fashion family, Tiger of Sweden, Tiger Jeans has used it’s cooler, more urban reputation to become one of Sweden’s’ leading jeans brands.
The store opening today in Copenhagen is the first to date that sells exclusively Tiger Jeans, and reflects its’ growth to an established Fashion line.
Emporio Armani Presents The Fall/Winter 2015/16 Campaign starring Calvin Harris
DJ and producer Calvin Harris stars in the Brooklyn located campaign, a monochrome of cinematographic features shot by photographer Lachlan Bailey. The highly prolific musician Calvin Harris is portrayed in various workplace environments clad in the FW collections’ garments, ranging from leather jackets to the iconic Emporio Armani underwear, eyewear and watches. The continuing collaboration strengthens the ties between the fashion house to the world of the energetic dynamism of contemporary music – with innovation, and futurism intertwined with an assured sense of style. www.armani.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Herr von Eden v MÜHLE Shaving Culture
Together with MÜHLE, Herr von Eden is launching a set of premium-grade shaving accessories for all men with an eye for quality and style. Good taste and an attention to detail are perfectly combined in this elegant shaving kit. Timelessly and traditionally crafted, the shaving set consists of a high-quality shaving brush with a handle made of resin, in combination with a low-maintenance synthetic fiber — the Silvertip Fibre ® - a MÜHLE innovation. In addition to this highly constructed kit, the aloe vera shaving soap ensures a thoroughly enjoyable shaving experience — for the cultivated gentleman.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?
Louis Vuitton Series 3 – Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign
Starring new muse Alicia Vikander and returning beauty Jennifer Connelly, the campaign is shot by Juergen Teller and Bruce Weber and showcases the FW 2015-2016 collections worn by the quintessential Louis Vuitton woman. The refined elegance of the garments and the women is highlighted, juxtaposed against an industrial, stark background. Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière has had an amazing season following the stunning resort collection and continues to take the brand to new heights.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Alessandro Michele does not veer from the pristine vision of a John Lennonesque man brought to life in a reformulated sense. With tinted eyewear, flowered lace and shabby-chic hair, the Gucci man emerges as a well-stocked, well-researched vintage savant. Even with such direct references to the 70s silhouette, Alessandro seems to aim more at playing with the aspect of youth culture and the fashion choice of eccentricity, who often draw from old closets.
Kenzo Resort 2016 Collection
The unifying pillar of the Kenzo Resort 2016 collection is its nod towards the modern-day woman on the go. With the universe at her feet and a yearning for functionality, Kenzo provides the sartorial relief for a woman in need of comfort paired with practicality and elegance. With subdued prints and flowing fabrics, the collection is made decidedly versatile with its soft, natural color scheme. Camouflage greens, stone greys, pale violets and beiges make sure the Kenzo Resort 2016 garments fits into any setting.
Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Campaign
“Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands.”
Embracing the liminal quality of those who inhabit both past and present mentalities, the Gucci FW 2015-2016 campaign explores the disconnection of those not entirely at home in the present moment. The elegant mix of vintage elements and futuristic fabric combinations positions the collection within the elusive space between “no longer” and “not yet”.
Creative director Alessandro Michele explains that the collection is the summation of his envisioning of today’s urbanite attitude – blurring divisions of gender and time permeate every garment. In a campaign photographed by Glen Luchford, models Tessa Charlotte Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, Lia Pavlova and Sven de Vries inhabit the bodies of the ‘Gucci contemporaries’. There is no doubt that Michele has delivered a stunning collection - be it past, present, or other.
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Industrial cuts, classical in nature yet futuristic in look is the order of the day in the recently revealed HUGO BOSS FW 15 campaign. Laced with crimsons, the pervading grays are elevated from classic to edgy, safe to bold. Artistic Director Jason Wu brings to the campaign a cemented Berlin feeling in his refined layers of anthracite felt.
Featuring Clément Chabernaud and Edie Campbell, this ode to Wu’s structural vision is reflected in the photographic work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, directed by Stephen Galloway. The collection tells a story through the play between structure form and a striking palette of black, red, camel and gray.
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Fendi Launches a Digital Boutique
Fendi has just launched their digital boutique. You can now have the experience of visiting a Fendi store whenever you want. Whether it’s a holiday or the middle of the night, you’re always welcome to look around and see the latest capsule collections. The brand is offering you a 360° experience, where service is of high importance. The boutique is open in Europe for now, but the US and Japan will follow later this year.
Bottega Veneta opens their first Home Collection Boutique in Milan
It is just like every thing else Bottega Veneta is about: extremely sophisticated and elegant, made with the highest quality materials and crafted by hand. Bottega Veneta’s home collection includes furniture, lighting and home decoration. For the first time, the brand has opened a boutique that is completely dedicated to this collection, right in the heart of Milan.
You can visit the store at Via Borgospesso n.5 in Milan.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since Nicolas Ghesquière took over the steering wheel, Louis Vuitton has been traveling into a slightly different direction. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, he has found a way to add some of that Parisian rock ‘n roll into Vuitton’s classic luxury.
Biker pants and jackets were combined with short dresses in flower prints, finished up with pointy heels and low, black boots. The looks felt casual and laid-back, but none of them lacked flare.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, Donatella Versace is giving us exactly what we have expected. Fur, over the knee boots, cut-out fabric and glitter. We saw full looks in primary colors, next to eye-catching graphical prints. Short dresses were bedazzled with rhinestones and covered with the Versace name. All of this gave us the feeling that Donatella was introducing us to a Bond girl from the sixties.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.