Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This year’s theme for the third edition of the Prada Feltrinelli Prize, Prada’s international literary contest dedicated to emerging writers was opened in Milan this past week. The Prada Journal collections of optical frames are the embodiment of Prada’s adventurous nature and its quest to explore the world through different lenses and perspectives – a just inspiration for the world of literary wonder. Launched in 2013, the Prada Feltrinelli Prize aims to establish and nurture an independent literary research platform open to writers from all corners of the world. The winners of the award will be awarded a cash prize and their stories published as an eBook in the Prada Journal digital anthology and in the Feltrinelli Zoom catalogue. The contest closes on August 31st. Send in your short story at… www.prada.com
Gucci Unveils Surrealistic Window For Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
July 21st marked the opening of the Gucci-designed window for their new Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s FW 2015/2016 collection. His first collection and its dreamlike display will be installed in stores worldwide by the end of the month.
An admix of disco’s love for striking neon lights and Salvador Dali’s penchant for the odd and grandiose — the window features purple and turquoise LEDs, creating a distinct 3D perspective, alongside embroidered snakes and giant swallows. This nod to surrealism goes hand in hand with the eclectic collection, being both eye-catching and imaginative.
Antony Morato Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
From the beating heart of New York City arises the urbanite “Places” campaign from Antony Morato. Following the footsteps of world-travelling Italian man, this curious adventurer has arrived in the city of a thousand lights. As any traveller would know, culture is as diverse as the winding paths of the road. And a lot of roads lead to New York. As a cradle of cultural exchange, the city continues to breathe new trends, affected by the thousands of “places” it hides. The FW campaign, shot by photographer Tony Thorimbert uncovers the unexpected metropolis, leaving behind what we assume New York to be and presenting it through its vibrancy, its architecture and its urbanism.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Viktor & Rolf Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting are no strangers to originality. This collection is no different. With construction so unique and alternative, the Viktor & Rolf catwalk was a highlight of Haute Couture’s Paris Fashion Week. The conceptual magic of the collection was clear to see – artists wrapped in their own constructions, a literal canvas draped chaotically yet beautifully around its maker. The construction of these ‘canvases’ was absolute creative genius. From canvas coats to ‘crushed painting’ dresses and the abstraction of classical Dutch still life imagery in the paintings themselves – Viktor & Rolf provided us with true marvel. Art and fashion is not incommensurable, it is symbiotic. Bravo.
CHANEL Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The revived flapper girl took centre stage at CHANEL’s Haute Couture showcase. The drastically shortened bob and asymmetrical hemline were decidedly 1920’s, yet all the while contemporary. Though it wasn’t far removed from a Baz Luhrmann set, the trademark Grand Palais was decidedly CHANEL — abundant in theatrics and perhaps even more ostentatious than any Great Gatsby film set. CHANEL is after all the real deal. The Art Deco casino showcased stars gathered around casino tables, Oscar winner Julianne Moore and muse Kristen Stewart at ease in ‘Le Cercle Privé’.
However, it was Karl Lagerfeld’s bride Kendall Jenner that symbolised this seasons CHANEL Haute Couture collection – an unabashed celebration of the young it-crowd. A proper Daisy Buchanan to Karl’s Gatsby. Indeed, the showcase of the ‘high rollers’ sat in the centre of the runway was perhaps less of a subtle hint, with guests such as Lily-Rose Depp and Lily Collins bidding for a chance at a win. Alas, this is Haute Couture. And conceptualism is as much a part of the picture as the garments themselves.
However, as with his recent collections, Karl triumphs again with his garment construction. This time with the introduction of his fully 3D printed suits, pushing the classic CHANEL look into the age of fashion technology. Though the silhouettes were classic in nature, their conception were as avant-garde as his presentation.
Prada Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Womenswear Campaign
In a campaign shot by Steven Meisel, the FW Prada womenswear collection features an amalgam of new faces. Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese and Maartje Verhoef make up the Prada pack. Embracing the beginning of the meta-modern age, Prada reframes notions of reality in an ode to what they have coined to be a meta-modern femininity. In this narrative, the virtual and the real seem almost indistinguishable – captured in Meisel’s statuesque and vignette-style photography series. Like the innate contrast of the real versus the virtual captured in the campaign, the materials and shapes of this collection play with opposition. Formal trousers are colored statement pink and metallic tops with opera-sleeves signal the emergence of a new ‘uniform - The Prada FW 2015 kind of uniform.
Kenzo Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Showcased in an underground, near alien setting, the Kenzo cave was populated by a congregation of outlandish models. The feel of futurism was undeniable. Reminiscent of a reality not too far off, fabrics were constructed geometrically in earthy shades of green, khaki, yellow and grey. Amidst quirky details, rounded glasses included, there were jackets with ruched sleeves and parachute-looking jumpsuits. The collection gave an impression of comfortable style, as functional as it is fashionable.
Balmain Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain man is definitely memorable. A reimagination of the twentieth-century adventurer, Rousteing evokes the essence of a contemporary city explorer. Though perhaps not as practical as it is aesthetically pleasing, the throwback headpieces, khaki belted jackets and pocket-heavy pants are the results of a certain military pragmatism and an appreciation for the classic cuts of the 1900s, refashioned with the modern man in mind. Indeed, as Olivier Rousteing’s first menswear collection for Balmain, the collection is decidedly statement-worthy, and iconic in the way that it neatly reflects the iconic qualities of its inspirational figures – the traversing scientists and aristocrats of old.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
ZOO Magazine No. 47, Summer Issue – Out Now!
Gracing the covers of ZOO Magazine No. 47 is a decidedly musical cast - Sam Smith, currently touring with his Grammy-award winning album, Irish singer Róisín Murphy with upcoming dates in Europe, as well as Theo Hutchcraft of enigmatic duo the Hurts and experimental Austrian artist Soap & Skin. ZOO’s summer issue is packed with an eclectic blend of musicians, artists and shoots!
The issue also features a very special collaboration between ZOO and performance artist Ulay. In a recreation of his opus of the 70s, Anagrammatic Bodies features amongst others actresses Nina Hoss and Iris Berben, and cements Ulay’s comeback to the international art scene. Nobuyoshi Araki’s August of Araki and Paul Kooiker’s latest book Nude Animal Cigar will also feature alongside the best of Berlin’s Gallery Weekend.
This and much more will feature in ZOO Magazine’s issue #47, the summer edition – out now!
Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 Menswear
Like the nautical reincarnation of the Victorian gentleman, Sarah Burton’s creative lead steered the McQueen collection towards graphic prints of mythical sea creatures on classic, vintage cuts. Tailored jacquard patterns were intertwined with up-scale pajama-inspired looks. To enhance the look of the nautical was the fresh-out-the-water locks.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring
Creative director Andreas Melbostad found his inspiration in Venice Beach for the upcoming Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring collection. Known for its authentic Californian way of life, the beach, the bustling city and all manners of street inspired art constitute the iconic location.
With its metropolitan DNA, Diesel injects a decidedly sporty take on the edgier Californian, enhanced by a simplified palette of black and white, accentuated by electric blues and grays. Beach sports galvanized this collections’ structure, with chunky zippers, structured fabric choices and ergonomic tailoring details inspired by surfing and diving gear. The collection is diverse – from leather jackets to sports backpacks and jean styles. Minimalism is paired with an effortless and sporty-chic vibe.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
America’s Cup x Louis Vuitton
With the announcement of its renewed commitment to the ‘holy grail’ of sailing, Louis Vuitton is confirming its support of the sport by becoming the title partner of the America’s Cup World Series. Over time, the collaborations between America’s Cup and Louis Vuitton have grown into a fully-fledged partnership. Since 1983, the fashion house has worked with this bastion of adventure and sportsmanship. As the presenting partner of the 35th America’s Cup Match, Louis Vuitton will contribute their sense of timeless luxury to the Cup Qualifiers and Challenger Playoffs in 2016 and 2017 respectively, as well as present for the Cup Match in Bermuda in 2017.
The fashion house will have a visible presence in the tournament – on land, in the water and through live and online broadcasts. Dating back to 1851, the America’s Cup trophy is the oldest in international sport and an undeniable symbol of excellence. The Cup’s trophy travels encased in trademark Louis Vuitton style – their custom monogrammed case. Who better to transport this iconic trophy than one of the most recognizable in designer travel ware than Louis Vuitton! The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series 2015 consists of a total of three events, kicking off in July in Portsmouth (UK), before travelling to Gothenburg (Sweden) and finally Bermuda.
Prouvé RAW Office Edition launches during International Design Week
The collaborators G-Star RAW, Vitra and the Prouvé family are launching the second series of the Prouvé RAW furniture collaboration: the office edition.
Meeting the demands of the modern-day office, the ten-piece series refashions the designs through the use of heavy-duty fabric materials in industrial shades of green, reflecting the re-use of factory floors and workshops for creative agencies. The Office Furniture project was initiated through a variety of custom workstations, conference tables, office chairs and other pieces of furniture made to furnish G-Star’s Amsterdam offices.
Catherine Prouvé explains the collection’s contemporary renewal: “I like the fact that this edition honors my father’s original design, while complementing it with contemporary details. This follows his understanding of design, which he regarded as a dynamic process. To him design was a never-ending evolution, constantly striving to respond to changing needs.”
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
We can always count on Stella McCartney to bring us effortless elegance. She understands the city woman like no other, and knows exactly how to design comfort. Her latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was filled with chunky, knitted sweaters and pajama-like ensembles.
On the other hand, Stella proves that she is anything but lazy. All garments are well tailored, especially her dresses and high waisted pants.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Valentino’s collection for Fall/Winter 2015 was just as perfect as any of the previous ones. The cuts are brilliant, the details magnificent and fabrics are by far the best they can get their hands on.
Since their takeover, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have lifted Valentino to new heights. Every show has been a spectacle in its own way, but none of them could compare to the closing looks we saw this time. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson walked on stage in the roles of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, characters from the film Zoolander that came out in 2001. They were wearing Chiuri and Piccoili’s signature suits for Valentino, and had all eyes on them.
Commercially, Chiuri and Piccoili have been brilliant from the beginning on, but this stunt just proved their never ending creativity and their feel for what people want. Or maybe even need.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Golden boy Raf Simons tags along with the others and jumps back to the sixties. Subtle but groovy prints, latex boots and garments made out of an innovative, mesh fabric gave the entire collection more sexiness then we have seen at Dior before. The looks are much more wearable then at previous collections, especially considering that these clothes will be worn in big cities.
Simons showed us that Dior can be something for everyone. For next fall, he created perfectly finished suits with cropped, wide pants. There were a few painted furs, and what we saw most were long, warm coats. If the classics weren’t good enough, you could enjoy thigh high latex boots and fluid mesh garments.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang has understood the essence of Balenciaga from the beginning on. Seeing his development with the brand is not only satisfying, but makes us want to get out of our chairs and give him a standing ovation.
The way the clothing is constructed refers to the work of Christóbal Balenciaga; showing a new way of looking at tailoring. Wang manages to embrace the shapes of the female body and work with that, rather than simply creating clothes and putting them on.
Tweed and wool dominated the show for next season, making sure that the collection is more of a classic one. Just like Christóbal himself, Wang is making garments that will last a lifetime. Or maybe even longer.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Made By You by Converse
Converse has been gathering personal editions of the Chuck Taylor All Star all over the world. They come together in the campaign “Made by you”, which celebrates the uniqueness of every customized pair. People have been expressing themselves on their Chuck Taylors for nearly 100 years, which means it is time to bring them together and share their stories. A fresh pair of Chucks has always been like a blank canvas, and now we can explore different creations from artist to skaters and musicians.
Akris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Albert Kriemler knows his clientele well. During his latest show for Akris, he presented a collection that consisted out of highly wearable garments, which were simple, elegant and well made. The overall collection was modest, where warm tones of white dominated most looks.
For next season, Kriemler experimented with textures on fabrics that managed to lift up the sober collection. For some of the looks, this meant that the fabrics seemed to be made out of reptile-like skin. The large use of grey and soft materials like jersey, gave the collection a feel of comfort, without being too lazy.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest Trussardi show, Gaia Trussardi portrayed a classic Femme Fatale. She chose an ultra feminine silhouette and combined this with highly luxurious materials. By using natural colors, she made sure that every look in the collection is very wearable, pointing at what is probably going to be a commercial success.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Metallics and brushstrokes dominated the latest show by Giorgio Armani. The collection consisted mostly out of jackets and pants, which made overall strong impression. Straight silhouettes and subtle layering made gave the collection a somewhat minimalist feel. Just like in the Emporio Armani show we saw last week, icy blues were everywhere to be found.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
BOSS at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
It is clear that Jason Wu is trying to steer BOSS into a different direction. Whereas we normally expect the garments to be more utilitarian and formal, Wu is introducing a new way of looking at tailoring. He combines straight lines with curves, accentuates these with bold colors and gives more attention to details.
BOSS is still offering us business attire, but now it is focused on the reinvention of the modern woman. Wu covers her body with innovative fabrics and follows the lines of her silhouette to create a professional but highly elegant look. Naturally, he did not leave out the suit from this collection and created a sixties smoking-inspired ensemble. BOSS is empowering women, while celebrating femininity at the same time. By doing this, Wu is proving us that we should not have to choose.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Telfar Clemens is a man with an opinion. As a designer, he dares to question beauty, taste and gender. His latest collection does exactly that, and brings an effortless selection of garments that fit perfectly into an urban setting.
He combines tight, knitted tees with boxy, wide leg jeans, which make the models look like construction workers that just walked out of the fifties. By cutting out fabric around the knees and on the chest, Telfar shows a good amount of skin. Some knitted pieces are assembled in such a way, that they even seem to show as much skin as they cover. Whether you agree with Telfar’s view on fashion or not, we all can agree on the fact that he has managed to bring something new to New York.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Vivienne Westwood and Juergen Teller have joined forces once again, this time together with American actress, Paz de la Huerta, star of Westwood’s artful SS15 campaign.
Against scrap-papered walls and paint-stippled floors, de la Huerta, Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler pose and play in the experimental environs of Nuremberg’s Academy of Fine Arts, where the designer teaches. Westwood and Andreas fell in love with the architecture of the school, sensing it an inspiring setting to shoot. Seemly in the surrounds, it was Teller’s suggestion to involve the students in the creation of the campaign – some even appearing in the pictures as subjects.
True to form, the images are unhinged, vivacious and unapologetically brazen, stark in the steely light of Teller’s flash, frames seditious and skewed. A chaotic curation from the Gold Label, Red Label, MAN and accessories collections, clothes proved suitably subversive – and rightly so. It is Westwood, after all…
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Kenzo’s geek went intergalactic this season, all aliens and anoraks with a street sensibility.
Sonorous hues were muddied, thrust off-key to droning ochres and teals. Combat jackets were cuffed with ribbed thumbholes, while fingerless gloves slipped subversively under slim-fit boiler suits. Flight bomber jackets were pulled by plummy claret tones, topped by chubby fur collars, all the shades of a splendidly sickly rainbow.
Drawstring bags were rustled from rigid vinyl leathers, plasticky and grooved like a twist-tie sack. Marled knits were basted together with blue bootlace wools, an orderly striped patchwork, profound with a plush grain – the letters ‘UFO’ emblazoned in a ‘found’ appliqué alphabet. Devoré velvets carried sunburst hues, puddling over pilot jackets that snatched above striped woollen flares, while hairy fur coats emerged in a monstrous green. Acrid orange denims were marbled by an acidic wash, while ski suits and sweaters were scrawled in batik insignia. Dense leather skins bore a steely silver grain, capes cloaking bodies like tailored reflective blankets or trickling to the floor in the form of baggy pants. Now we’re more than ready to enter the space age.
KRISVANASSCHE at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The difficulty with skinny slim line tailoring is that is struggles to ward off the inevitable comparisons to Mod, its own merits forever eclipsed by those of its doppelganger. Kris van Assche’s, on the other hand, delivered far more than mere pastiche.
The sheen of a silver-grey suit set a simple canvas, invigorated by a peppering of a forest-green polo neck, almost futuristic in cartoonish clean-cut jersey. Fluid geometrics played out across the surface of sweaters, rounded shapes puddling in inky off-hues. Shirts, too, obeyed a strict simplicity, an unsullied ice blue dotted with a plummy silk inset, while black wool coats were accosted by a splodges of grass green satin.
Pinstripes and parkas recalled the said Mod, but were vamped up with a slick sheen, their proportions inflated; fur-lined coats were cropped and bulbous, their characteristic combat greens traded in for a cheaper and flashier pea-green model – and all the fresher for it. Cigarette pants were swapped for flares, sweeping over sturdy leather sneakers for a modern mod uniform.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
When it comes to sumptuous ornamentation, you can always trust Dries van Noten to come up trumps. FW15 may well have opened with the utilitarian, but that soon succumbed to the not-so-cheap thrill of paisley brocade and silk jacquard.
Sand combat pants puddled around the calf – their drainpipe cousins peeping beneath as a matching underlay. Navy pea coats in felted wool paraded their buttons just off-centre, necks syphoned by funnel collars and chests ruled with black grosgrain bands. Mandarin coats almost bypassed as duffels in their heavy yarns, finished off with industrial steel toggles and high-vis white stripes.
Eiderdown quilting doubled as jogging pants, cuffed curtly at the ankle and finished with an un-socked leather loafer. Kilts curtained cigarette pants – a folkish citation rendered esoteric with the addition of a button flap pocket, replete with ornate woven trim. Silk shirts bore floral prints in indigo and moss green, unbuttoned to the lower chest and left to slink off shoulders. Tees, though obeying to basic form, were beguilingly baroque, tiled in hypnotic oriental prints. Scarcely was a surface safe from a stout steeping in history – but then you could expect nothing less from a chronicler like Dries.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Louis Vuitton paid a poignant tribute to Christopher Nemeth this FW15, as Kim Jones channelled the signature cuts of his design hero, stamping club kid prints onto Saville row silhouettes – the immortal hallmark of Nemeth.
Bonded cashmere sweaters and buff duffle coats were emblazoned in laser-etched Nemeth insignia, while sturdy leather trunk cases bore his emblems in flock. Chubby teddy-bear furs were too branded by Nemeth’s curling motif, inscribed deep into their pelt – a brooding detail that was all the more acute for its stealth. Drainpipe turn-ups skimmed slight ankles in rough wool and chambray, meeting the clunky casualness of a leather brogue-sneaker hybrid, at once nerdy and athletic in boot-polish black and tan.
Micro monogram bags crossed over bodies, their super-skinny straps harnessing pointed collar jackets in fuzzy wool and thermo-finished leather in rich tones of buttermilk and wine. Khaki quilting padded bombers and boiler suits, while grid checks and amplified polka dots paraded tailored suits and co-ords. While his references may well be interpreted as a touching tribute, they read all the more tenderly as an effort of Jones in his own right – a reference to the past, perhaps, but with both eyes fixed doggedly on the future.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Maison Margiela at London Collections: Couture 2015
They let him in and they let him reign; John Galliano’s flamboyance was certainly rendered more cultured under Maison Margiela, but one thing was clear – little was going to wane that wilful grandiosity.
From the first look to the last, an artisanal feast before our eyes, tortuously elaborate – almost imperial in its sculpting of the silhouette, embroidered coats rotund at the hips like the curve of a Fabergé egg.
Evidence that all this was the product of Margiela’s surrealist atelier arrived with the threadbare tatters scuffing the knees of stockings and rough, buff, tailor-chalked toiles. But just as Margiela’s presence permeated, Galliano’s was equally palpable – gaudy faux tiger-skin tailoring and gowns emblazoned by inflated PVC portraits. Fantasy was never far from the imagination, and Galliano’s was certainly indulged. Denim hotpants at couture? Only Galliano would dare.
J.W. Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Designers are a divided bunch; there are those who are disciples of beauty, and those who are disciples of thought. And then there’s J W Anderson – an exceptional master of both.
A single glance affords inescapable parallels to fashions past; flared legs and fluted cuffs belted by square psych pilgrim buckles and paired with spread lapels. Some might think it a perverse indulgence in all that’s ugly – a severe case of cacophilia – making a fetish of all that causes the skin to crawl. Brown leather trenchcoats bedecked, effeminate bodies – bare save the bolster of a chunky knitted choker. Giant daisy buttons dotted the chests of beige duster coats like girlish gingerbread men, but hyper-bland. Taupe conquered again, this time stretching over languid limbs as a slinky elastane number, tediously dreary and yet ripe for the disco.
Shearling suede coats were reconfigured as mod bombers, tight to torso while 90s bootcuts flared. Leather received the lurid treatment, emerging as cherry-red trousers and violet-stained jackets, replete with the delightfully repulsive silver ring zipper. Knitwear was, likewise, unashamedy plain, monotonous in mushroom bar a tubular roll of crimson to pipe a cartoonish turtleneck. The effect was that of a marvellously lacklustre Jetsons – the color turned down to a brilliant beige. As for a patchwork of fashions past, how could such a futuristic reference be nostalgic?
BOSS Womenswear Pre-Fall 2015
They say opposites attract. Should you need any convincing, Jason Wu’s latest collection for BOSS Womenswear provides perfect proof.
Pre-Fall 2015 painted a picture of contrasts, inverting male and female sartorial codes with playful wit for an all the more considered take on androgyny.
Longstanding BOSS icons orientated the aesthetic, bolstered by a stalwart menswear motif in both outline and adornment. Windowpane and houndstooth checks are pregnant in scale, caricatured as pixelated macro prints or re-woven as tweeds, tailoring redefined by this new modern heritage. Digitized suiting fabrics arrived in the form of laser-cut chiffon, jacquard knit and fine herringbone beading, sombre in its monochrome baseline but revitalised by flashes of verdant green.
Evening dresses strike a covetable balance between tuxedo and sumptuous gown; the tuxedo softened by an extended shirt, and the gown rendered redolent by a hardy composition of geometric chiffon panels, engineered to the body.
And the role reversal extended to the accessories, with cufflinks replacing the hardware detail on handbags, belts and Chelsea boots, reconfigured under androgyny’s idiosyncratic eye. “A marriage of opposites”, as Wu so coined it. A match made in heaven, to all intents.
Dior Pre-Fall 2015
A one-of-a-kind show requires a grand name and an even grander location. For Dior’s Pre-Fall 2015, Artistic Director Raf Simons successfully ticked both boxes, and then some.
Presented in Japan’s metropolis before 1,400 industry insiders and fashion darlings (Audrey Tautou and Hailee Steinfeld were amongst the attendees), the ‘Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015’ show wasn’t just great, it was dazzling.
Tokyo vibes were injected in the futuristic styling and trademark Dior silhouettes. Prior to the show, Simons revealed that the vibrant city has always inspired him. “Particularly in terms of the liberty people take for themselves in how they dress,” he said. “There is nowhere else like it… It’s a place that is both extreme and exhilarating.”
As for the looks, shimmering high-neck tops were worn under luxurious knits, oversized raincoats or A-line dresses. Knee-length boots accompanied zip-up fur vests. Youthful minis were juxtaposed with sophisticated figure-hugging gowns.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Diesel opens Pop Up Shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn
photo: Nicholas Ong
Lifestyle brand Diesel have opened up their first Pop Up Shop in Williamsburg, Brooklyn named 101.
Formulated to exhibit Nicola Formichetti's first Diesel collection and showcase the brands new direction, the shop will adhere to Brooklyn's lively and exciting atmosphere. The 1000 square foot store partly designed by architect Mark Gage consists of men's and womenswear, accessories and children's wear as well as limited edition merchandise specifically designed for the Pop Up.
Displaying a slightly sinister, refractive and prismatic concept, the store fuses retail, media and art to offer a stimulating and unique shopping experience. Walls are mirrored enabling them to reflect digital image screens placed within the ceiling and projecting colorful facets of imagery and social media around the surroundings. The decor also comprises of orchid lined walls and vintage pornography.
Speaking on the Pop Up Formichetti states "The 101 Pop Up is a new type of store – personal, special, a project space. Brooklyn represents modern day culture and fits perfectly with Diesel DNA and where we are heading."The store opened on 15th August and will remain open until December 2014.
Hermès Zebra Pegasus
Exquisite and decorative, the Hermès Zebra Pegasus scarf collection is inspired by the fantastical myth of Pegasus and the beauty of the African zebra.
Incorporating delicate patterning with a bold color palette, the collection oozes artistic creativity and distinct prints while remaining elegant and feminine.
Designed by Central Saint Martins College of Art graduate Alice Shirley, the scarfs depict the reinvention of the legend of Pegasus and combine natural and historical influences with contemporary fashion to create something uniquely beautiful.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
French-German design duo Augustin Teboul is hitting all the right notes these days. And because some recognition never hurt anybody, they were presented with the international Woolmark award recently. In the wake of this success, they stepped out with their most recent collection “SHINY VOID“ during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This showcase aimed at portraying the inseparability of opposites, as could be seen in the mix of rough and fragile pieces. Overall, Augustin Teboul stuck with their tried and tested formula of relaxed, strong, mysterious predominantly black looks for SS15. Clear lines, understated volume and intriguing plays with textiles, and a sliver of silver here and there make this collection.
Galactic quantum entanglement sees two spheres connected during the presentation, represented by light patterns and reflections. The models moved about this parallel universe in a transcendent state, making this elaborate showcase more art installation than fashion show. The designs adhered to the eccentric aesthetic the label is known for, and displayed leather, fish nets sequins and delicate lace in perfect harmony. Skimpy leather shorts and long dresses with thigh slits were paired with rough leather jackets, mesh shirts and lace pants, knee length leather pencil skirts and leather bustiers, as well as floor length sheer skirts and intricate embellishments showed off the attraction of opposites.
ODEUR at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
For Berlin Fashion Week’s closing day, design duo Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger send their SS15 collection ZENITH down the runway. The designs are quintessential Scandinavian in their minimalism, yet daring and defiant in their attitude. ODEUR’s black and white creations are uniforms for informed urbanites, ready to challenge the status quo. Bold futuristic silhouettes challenge conventional fashion motif: boxy shirts over slim pants, wide pleated shorts under bomber jackets, classic blazers or boxy jackets. The SS15 collection is purist, clean and sophisticated, with a cool and relaxed attitude. The monochrome color scheme underlines the sharpness and ambivalence of ZENITH and the cosmopolitan vigilante ODEUR wants us to become next summer.
Michalsky at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Michalsky
Always one to entertain, Michael Michalsky went all out for his SS15 show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Musical acts included newcomer band Ballet-School and Brit star Rita Ora, as well as Berlin-based avant-garde artist and designer Esther Perbandt, who did not only take to the mic, but got to show some of her own collection too. This closing event was not just fun and games though, as Michalsky's inspiration this time stemmed from the NSA scandal and the continuing growth of big brother. Mesh, camouflage, sheerness and innocent white are the shades to bring said inspiration to life in this collection, aptly titled "Important Secrets“. The womenswear collection is particularly intriguing with it's mix of feminine prints, metallic accents and military style headgarb. Michalsky turned his unsettling inspiration into a luxe spin on 1984, seeing us as glam versions of Julia next summer.
Michael Sontag at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Soft tunes by Glass Animals were the perfect backdrop for Michael Sontag’s SS15 showcase. His buoyant girl strutted down a runway designed by artist Caroline Bayer, who had a mayor influence on Sontag’s collection sportive, elegant silhouettes for SS15. Once again Sontag stuck to his fuzz free, no-nonsense styles cut from cotton and jersey, but put a little twist on the styles he’s come to be known for. Under Bayer’s influence he incorporated a notion of the urban structures of facades resulting in a fresh, contemporary straight shape.
Unfinished hems, stretch fabrics and alluring bare calves, shoulders and backs playfully toyed with the appeal of the female form and Sontag’s masterful grasp of the relationship fashion-body-space. His trademark draping and flowing fabrics only added to the light and soft sex appeal of his designs which came down the Berlin Fashion Week runway in shades of delicate lilac, powerful yellow, and sensual red as well as understated and eternal black. Even the hottest summer can be cool with this collection of beautiful, not overtly, in-your-face-sexy styles.
Aleks Kurkowski at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Polish-German designer Aleks Kurkowski showcased a collection inspired by architecture, geometrical shapes and adoration for the insatiable color black. The result is high-end mens and womenswear, which combines straight forward, avant-garde design and a deep-rooted belief in sustainability. For a label that has only been founded back in 2012, Aleks Kurkowski has already made a name for itself as being progressive and independent from mainstream trends. The designer's sustainable and ecologically responsible approach to the fast paced world of fashion shines through in the use of natural organic materials.
And in some ways it carries over to the label's color of choice for SS15, as black is an eternally fashionable (non-)color that will withstand the test of time. Kurkowski's edgy designs were somewhat of a throwback to 90s daredevil TV series with tough designs primarily showing leather appliqué, metal zippers and unfinished hems here and there, paired with high-fashion attention to detail. Architecture, as a focal point of her inspiration, shines through in the masculine, almost architectural designs. Staples for SS15 are ankle length pants and coats – all in all a far cry from the usual sundress and a refreshing, badass approach to staying ‘cool’ all year round.
BRACHMANN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
It’s a minimalist attitude that the BRACHMANN Spring/Summer 2015 collection conveys. Walter Gropius and the Bauhaus style served as an inspiration for the architectural collection. Classic suits, well-fitted coats and shirts, in different shades of grey, dark blue, black, brown and bordeaux are versatile and work in any combination with the knee long shorts, guaranteeing a simple, but smooth look. Polo shirts with short or rolled up sleeves add a casual and relaxed feel. An interesting detail are the cut off collars, that make for a twist in the traditional menswear, such as the pleats at the back of trousers that make their front look wider.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
by Nora Hiller
It’s an air of nostalgia for boyhood and a longing for a distant future that surrounds the IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Small backpacks and colourful collar details in the shape of tiny triangles remind of a schoolboy days, while smart suits signal sophistication. Buttoned up shirts with short sleeves contrast loose fitting T-shirts with v-necks. A drawstring at the back of jackets and sleeveless vests is used to tighten the fit at waist level. The dominant colours are black, deep green, cobalt blue as well as a soft creme and pale pink, only a bright magenta ensemble stands out.
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2014
Dark decadance and gothic elegance was exhibited at the Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2014 Haute Couture show. Ghost like makeup accompanied by a color palette of red, black and white made for a darkly luxurious collection with black leather, luscious fur and soft satin being key materials. Lines were exaggerated and textures were experimented with in a dramatic amalgamation. Exuding rock and roll elegance, theatrical dresses were created with lace and face framing collars, the result was a collection exquisitely sleek.
Trussardi Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Photographed by postmodern photographer Roe Ethridge, the Trussardi Fall/Winter 2014 campaign deconstructs traditional fashion images and explores new and creative visuals.
Featuring the Trussardi greyhound, the images use a cutout effect to creatively combine human arms and legs with images of greyhounds. The campaign focuses on chic Trussardi accessories that comprise of fine leather and excellent detailing and puts them at the forefront of the inventive campaign shots.
Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Embodying the word deconstructed, the Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2015 Menswear show presented an eclectic and inventive collection. Adhering to the theme of disassembling, Margiela provided an intriguing mix; outfits were worn without trousers, sports bomber jackets were worn over suits and tattoo inspired beaded tops were paired with colourful trousers. This motif continued with trousers composed of half jean material and half suit trouser, transparent vests and slick metallic suits.
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring both the men' s and women's collections, the Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2014 campaign is the brands latest creative collaboration, this time with British photographer David Sims.
Representing a delicate strength and confidence, the womenswear collection presents a streamlined silhouette with a pale color palette. Influenced by activewear, the men's collection includes woolen, calf suede and lamb skin materials incorporated into a relaxed silhouette.
Collaborated with the modernistic work of David Sims who has influenced a generation of contemporary image makers, the campaign features stunning shots of model Edie Campbell against a plain and understated backdrop.
The campaign will be released in the August issues of selected global magazines and a video documentary depicting the photoshoot will be available to view in July at
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an experimental amalgamation, the Thom Browne Spring 2015 Menswear collection used intriguing and unique prints to create an eccentric and exploratory collection. Suits were deconstructed by using exaggerated shoulders, lines cut sharply and ankle baring trousers. Textured, action figure-esque jackets and trousers were worn with white shirts and cut out fabric flowers were emblazoned onto shirts, trousers and socks. Models sported plastic face masks and colour blocked brogues in a collection that defied rules to produce something inventive and original.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
22/4 at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The 22/4 Spring 2015 collection had a sporty yet slick feel. Relaxed and baggy silhouettes were laid back yet refined and designs were kept simple yet distinct. Cool sophistication was created through exaggerated tailoring; everything was slightly oversize and stylishly loose fitting, it exuded effortless chic. Sandals and t shirts were decorated with the 22/4 logo and dusky metallics and simplistic stripes added a uniqueness.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Presenting an array of monochrome pieces, Gucci applied a nonchalant design to their Spring 2015 Menswear collection. Jackets with sailor like button detail were combined with striped monochrome trousers and the same large buttons continued onto the top of loose fitting trousers. The mellow theme progressed onto casual trainers and luxurious loafers and bright bursts of vivid red and turquoise added eccentricity to the laid back collection.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Colour was effectively clashed and blocked at the Fendi 2015 Menswear show. Sharp and slick with a quirky edge, the collection kept a slick and refined silhouette whilst experimenting with colour, shape and texture. Stone washed denim was worn with beige, neon brights were mismatched with demure colours and black mesh was used on gilet's and worn over blazers. The combination was simple yet exciting and fused styles in a creative amalgamation.
Tru Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Being the most "playfgul, creative and fashion forward" of the Trussardi Group lines, the Tru Trusssrdi Spring Summer collection fused bright colours with eye catching and bold prints. Creating a relaxed elegance, the womenswear used vintage prints and fused casual wear with sleek lines, the result exuded "David Bowie glam". Feminine and relaxed silhouettes accompanied creative colour blocking producing a distinct look whist remaining hip and cool.The Menswear was of a similar aesthetic; loud and bold prints were paired with laid back garments and slick tailoring. Inspired by sports, the designs adopted "tongue in cheek" styling and used layering to keep outfits chic and cool. The collection presented a futuristic style yet kept to being edgy and modern.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Soft colours juxtaposed sharp lines and clean tailoring at the Jil Sander Menswear 2015 show. Bright white and soft yellow ensembles were clean cut and sophisticated whilst remaining relaxed and underemphasized. Loose fitting, relaxed suits were covered in deep navy blue and a simple yet intricate print and were worn with flat form sandals and black socks. Summery shorts and trousers with yellow stripe detailing were styled with cool, modern backpacks and laid back trousers were paired with smart blazers and shirts. The collection verged on a feminine aesthetic yet remained sharp and distinct.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Exploring shades of powder pink, deep purple, taupe and blue whilst adhering to a classic Versace aesthetic, the Spring 2015 Versace menswear show offered texture, vibrancy and shape all in an undeniably luxurious manner. Magnificently detailed shirts and trousers were intricately cut to create unique patterns and worn with lavish white leather brogues and artistically decorated and colourful leather jackets were paired with cut-out black trousers and elegant loafers. The collection exuded high end opulence and in true Versace fashion adorned numerous garments with gold embellishments and embroidery.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Casual lines and textures were worked around a black and white tree print in the Iceberg Menswear Spring 2015 collection. A sports luxe aesthetic was applied to loose fitting sweatpants, sweaters and shorts and metallic material gave a luxurious edge. Relaxed silhouettes were complimented by sleek layering whilst bucket hats and colour blocking offered something playful. The collection embodied an effortlessly thrown together yet modern and contemporary design.
Replay Laserblast L.I.F.E Campaign
Fashion brand Replay have chosen committed environmentalists in their latest campaign to advertise their new eco-friendly range.
The capsule collection entitled ‘Replay Laserblast L.I.F.E’ promotes itself as one of the most sustainable denim ranges. The collection uses eco-friendly Laserblast technology and coloured mineral pigments of natural origin to create the clothing as well as low environmental impact laser technology and a low temperature water wash to create each item.
The collection is authenticated by real life strong and world leading environmental activists starring in the campaign. Fronted by two protagonists Aleksandra Orbeck-Nilssen and Enok Groven who both share a passion for the environment and sustainable fashion, Replay have demonstrated their beliefs in environmentally friendly fashion production.
Model and actress Aleksandra Orbeck-Nilssen is the creator of Nanofasa, a wildlife conservation trust and is spokesperson for African environmental issues and Enok Groven is the founder of Fashion Against Climate Change, a newsgroup centred on environmental issues within the fashion industry.
The campaign launched on June 16th and comprises of graphic and vivid images of the protagonists clashing with authority figures and a two minute film depicting the activists fight for environmental change. The capsule collection will be available on the Replay on-line shop and in selected Replay Stores from the beginning of June.
London Collections: Men Day 2
The second day of London Collections: Men produced an exciting amalgamation of captivating street style, compelling fashion and lively parties. The relaxed yet stimulating atmosphere continued with catwalks from KTZ, Jimmy Choo, Alexander McQueen and Moschino and presentations from Kit Neale, Christopher Kane and Duchamp.
One of the first shows of the day, J.W. Anderson who is known to blend gender presented a similar aesthetic in his Spring/ Summer 2015 collection by merging male and female styles. Masculine suits were exquisitely fitted, smart brogues were given flatforms and large wrap around scarfs were worn as ties. The experimental tone of the collection was continued with suits being deconstructed and knitted crop tops styled with loose fitting suit trousers. A truly original combination, Anderson applied his signature unconventional style to a wearable and unique collection.
At the Alexander McQueen show abstract designs were displayed onto all white and all black canvases of trousers, jackets and coats. Smart yet chic patterned suits were worn with casual trainers, emulating a stylish yet easy going look. Relaxed silhouettes were seen on loose bomber jackets and culottes and patent leather was incorporated onto oversize coats and jackets. Entirely sleek without losing a unique edge, the collection was smart and creative.
Before his party hosted by i-D Magazine, Jeremey Scott’s first menswear collection for Moschino did not disappoint and embodied a fun, lively and bright vibrancy. No stranger to branding, Scott graced garments with the words ‘Moschino’ and ‘Fauxschino’. In an explosion of colour, logos and smiley faces, the Moschino collection creatively used layering and referenced hip hop through transparent netting, gold chains and dollar signs while also incorporating womenswear.
The last catwalk of the day came from Casely-Hayford who integrated the trend normcore into their smart and dapper collection. A gentlemen demeanour was reinvented with pinstripe decorated sports caps, suit blazers transforming into oversize coats with zip detailing and slogan tees worn with traditional pin stripe suit trousers. It was sharp, slick and seemingly effortless, classic menswear was skilfully revived all in a demure colour palette with shades of blue, green and gold. Day two was wrapped up nicely.
Diesel Pre Fall 2014
Fusing fashion advertising and fine art, Diesel have created a new and creative vision for their Pre Fall 2014 campaign through the use of the digital medium.
Taking inspiration from Michelangelo, Avedon and the Renaissance, Artistic Director of Diesel Nicola Formichetti has created an interesting juxtaposition between the classical and the digital with the campaign echoing historic Italian art whilst remaining modern and sleek appealing to the younger generation.
Photographed by Nick Knight, the campaign entitled ‘Neo-neoclassic’ initiates a new era for Diesel in which the old is strikingly combined with the new and the historic with the contemporary.
Thomas Tait wins LVMH Prize
photo Patrick Demarchelier
Beating talented rivals including Simone Rocha, Shayne Oliver's Hood by Air and Jacquemus by Simon Porte Jacquemus, Thomas Tait has been announced winner of the inaugural LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers.
Receiving a €300.000 grant and a year's worth of mentoring from a team of special LVMH advisors, Tait was judged by the height of fashion experts including Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs and Delphine Arnault. Being “captivated” by his work and naming him a “great talent”, the judges were extremely impressed by the 28 year old Central Saint Martins graduate.
Tait debuted his first London Fashion Week collection during Spring Summer 2011 and has since progressed to develop clean, structured and exquisite collections.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2015 Collection
A compilation of bright colours dominated the Louis Vuitton runway at the Cruise 2015 show. Mismatched colourful prints and patterns were illustrated onto structured silhouettes and heavily embellished pieces were worn with distinctive patterns.
Consisting of a series of well put together outfits, the collection presented bright high waist fitted trousers, slick zip up dresses and eccentric matching suits. Lace was incorporated, softening up the strong and bold lines and adding elegance, whilst shiny and structured leather coats offered a powerful yet polished aesthetic.
Immaculately put together and refreshingly original, the collection embodied vibrancy whilst remaining exquisitely stylish.
Christian Dior Resort 2015
The ‘it’ girl about town provided the motif for the Christian Dior Resort Collection 2015. With a striking amalgamation of prints, texture and colour, there wasn’t much this collection did not offer.
Bold graphic, abstract prints juxtaposed ladylike silk camis and waist pinching, knee length shapely skirts to create the perfect balance between femininity and vitality. Minidresses and tops played the part of a canvas; illustrated with dynamic brushstrokes and paired with chic black ankle boots.
The mood transported us from refined elegance to hip and modish lines with tailored, long knee length overcoats worn with nothing underneath. Raf Simons experimented with texture through scarf like silk patterned skirts and transparent deconstructed dresses with cut out patterning.
The eclectic theme was embodied through clashed floral and stipe prints and mesh cut out dresses, all in a vivid and captivating colour palette.
G-STAR RAW: MILITARY APPAREL REMIXED WITH A FUTURISTIC MOTIF
Denim specialists G – Star Raw’s latest collection inventively combines military attire with a futuristic aesthetic that of course can be worn effortlessly with all types of denim.
Camouflage patterned bomber jackets are worn with deconstructed denims and white tees that embody a hip and urban demeanor and shiny metallic bombers are worn with black angle boots that exude laid back power.
Both feminine and edgy, the womenswear provides an attractive mix of military style prints, lightweight cottons and nylons and a casual colour palette of silver, copper, and khaki. The menswear consists of khaki and camouflage bombers, pants and shorts and relaxed t –shirts and signature denim jeans.
The collection is stylish yet functional and epitomises mellow chic.
Hermès Launches Lighting Collection
Forget the phrase, “more by accident than by design” when it comes to Hermès - “more by architecture”, on the other hand, would be wholly germane. Showcasing the new Home Universe collection, at the Milan Salone del Mobile last week, Hermès joined forces with Italian architect and designer Michele De Lucchi to fashion a series of handsomely imposing structures under the similarly stately surrounds of the Palazzo Serbelloni. Hermès en Lumière presents the brand's debut lighting collection, alongside a fresh offering of luxury interior pieces.
Occupying several rooms, the installation took 10 days to build, and harmonised a plurality of aesthetics with dichotomous splendor. Light took center stage, first peppering the slatted timber panels that soared to the heights of fresco ceilings. Though they did their best, even the unctuous glow of the Palazzo's gold chandeliers couldn't quite overshadow the crisp white modernity of the Hermès LEDs. Part arboreal, part Bauhaus, branching lanterns boughed their slender sprigs over buttery taupe couches. Devised by the expert eye of French light scenographer, Yann Kersalé, contemporary craftsmanship took leverage from old sailing or carriage lamps – antiquated casts reconfigured with rechargeable batteries, granting each modular style a passport to the outdoors. Materials found their roots in nature; softly speckled twills were edged with signature supple leathers to form hardy illuminated drums of shades, suspended from a finely-craned frame.
Alongside these new additions sat renewed classics; Jean-Michel Frank's iconically poised chair, console and bench were specially recommissioned, having made their first appearance with Hermès in 1926. The limited artisan objects are restricted to around 50-100 pieces, each carefully crafted in hand-patinated bridle leather and wrought iron.
French designer Philippe Nigro also played a hand in the collection; Curiosités d’ Hermès – a discerning three-piece selection – draws upon the “cabinets of old”, revelling in indulgent daily rituals like afternoon tea or taking care of one's shoes. Such a rationale begs the use of equally exquisite materials; graphite Porosus crocodile and ebony Bosphore horsehair, or pear wood finished with ebony, renders a venerable range leaned to legacy.
G-Star Raw Opens First Women's Store in Germany
Denim specialist fashion brand G – Star Raw have created a unique retail concept, G – Star Women, a new store entirely dedicated to womenswear on Schäfflerstrasse in Munich, Germany. Situated over 225 m2, the impressive and specially designed store has a minimalist aesthetic and the ground floor consists exclusively of denim in various fits and styles to ensure that every woman is able to find her “perfect piece”.
On the second floor, customers are invited to seek stylish accompaniments to their perfectly fitted jeans in a “comfortable” and “relaxed” carefully designed fitting zone. Aiming to exemplify “G-Star design philosophies in product engineering and denim craftsmanship”, the Munich store consists of appealing attributes including a striking full height mirror and the aforementioned staircase to enhance the in store shopping experience and environment for the female consumer.
The female only store which is located in the bustling city center opens on 16th April 2014 and aims to utilize the notable G –Star DNA to provide a tailored, simple and stylish shopping experience for women.
G – Star Raw Presents Afrojack SS14 Capsule Collection
The eight piece collection comprises of long tees, short – sleeved hoodies and caps decorated in simple and contemporary black and white artwork and adorned with the word ‘RAW’. The DJ and denim brand provide a flawless combination as the designs are both hip and laidback and stylish yet casual. Upon releasing his new album, the platinum selling DJ will be offering a free ticket to his performance at the W hotel with the first 250 purchases and the capsule collection is now available at selected G – Star stores and stockists.
Funky denim fashion brand G – Star Raw has launched a second and even more exciting capsule collection in collaboration with DJ/ Music producer Afrojack. Emerging from Afrojack’s favourite piece; the G – star A-Crotch, the collection like the first collaboration is based around this piece which was custom made in leather for his performances. The signature A – Crotch will be available in black coated denim, white denim and leather.
Fred Perry Jamie Reid Blank Canvas
In celebration of the Jamie Reid Blank Canvas Collection, fashion label Fred Perry have enlisted a collection of creative concept videos and gif’s designed by Belgian artist Peter De Potter. The unique creations are inspired by the artwork of Jamie Reid and will be part of a collaborative installation at Dover Street Market.
The silent concept videos play with perception and merge stills with repeated moving imagery including the peace sign, angel statues and the naked male aesthetic. The videos combine the spirit of youth revolt with a peaceful calmness and pay homage to the work of Jamie Reid. The Belgian artist, famous for his use of Tumblr studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and incorporates photography with online imagery to create art inspired by the digital age.
Artist Jamie Reid’s Blank Canvas Collection consists of three printed shirts that fuse a variety of inspirations and meanings with Jamie’s own unique individuality. Based on his own artwork from 1987, the A Short Sharp Shock shirt synthesizes Reid’s trademark ransom note cut-out letters with a bronze embroidered Laurel Wreath and a Jamie Reid signature on the hem. The second shirt is inspired by Reid’s work with the Sex Pistols and symbolizes Reid’s uprising to order and the establishment with the words ‘Peace Is Tough’ printed across the chest. Time for Magic is the title of Reid’s third shirt in the collection and details a hare symbolizing peace with the words ‘Time for Magic’ embroidered along the back of the shirt.
The highly individualistic and free thinking work of Jamie Reid works flawlessly with iconic fashion brand Fred Perry to produce an exclusive and exciting collection that has an intriguing meaning. The collection will be available from 14th – 22nd March at Dover Street Market and eventually in all Fred Perry Laurel Wreath shops and online.
Moncler Gamme Rouge at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Moncler Gamme Rouge gave us an ultra-slick wardrobe to be snowed in with at their FW14 show during Paris fashion week. Woolly caps were combined with oversize coats and straight skirts worn over leggings to stylishly prepare us for the winter. It was modern, it was shiny and it was futuristic. Eye blindingly shiny silver covered oversize coats as well as sleek black croc leather and bright geometric prints to add drama to the largely polished pieces.
Jean Charles de Castelbajac at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Capturing the Parisian spirit, the Jean Charles de Castelbajac FW14 collection incorporated a largely black and white colour palette with bursts of cobalt blue and bright orange. Square patterns gave the demure cuts a funky edge and large eye covering black floppy hats gave us less is more mystery. Unique creativity was presented through whimsical face motifs applied to dresses, skirts and leather jackets and scissor, paperclip and screw sketches printed onto dress and jumpsuits. The collection excelled in demonstrating a winning combination of classic high end looks with one of a kind statement pieces.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Christian Dior FW14 experimented with texture, colour and shapes to produce a collection of tailored coats in eye catching colours and exhibited an imaginative approach to corset lacing seen down the spines of dresses and along the sides of blazers. Interjections of neon yellow, green and pink dresses accessorized with glitter details added a distinct femininity and sensationally textured dresses gave way to a sleek yet striking aesthetic.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
An oversized, loose fitted yet effortlessly sophisticated look was presented at the Hermès FW14 show. The oversized, structured coat still provides a strong focal point of an FW collection and Hermes simplified this classic piece by pairing it with nothing or a similarly coloured suit. Simplicity was a key theme projected onto all in one black leather outfits, gathered dresses and matching one colour suits until clashing pattern combinations and luxurious silk dresses and suits brought back the lavish element.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A blanket of black and white with glimpses of luxurious gold constituted the Ann Demeulemeester FW14 show. The collection, consisting of both menswear and womenswear depicted a demure yet distinct darkness that adopted a gothic theme while still adhering to a feminine aesthetic. The womenswear was heavily deconstructed through the folding and wrapping of materials to create a fearless and fiery look whilst the menswear combined clean lines with dark punk that embodied sharpness with edge.
Viktor & Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Viktor & Rolf got creative at their FW ’14 show, presenting numerous shapely cut long grey dresses, rope style cable knit patterns accessorized onto overcoats, tops and dresses and black buckled creeper style platform shoes. Shapes including faux bustiers and sheer material were inventively applied to jumpsuits and dresses. The designing duo managed to incorporate a sense of originality into a largely shades of grey colour palette and played with classic sophistication with the use of loose fitting velvet and blazers with thick cable knit sleeves, it excelled in elevating simplicity.
Day 6: Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glitzy glamour met sleek style at the Dsquared² FW ‘14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week. Short dresses were worn with extravagant overcoats to create drama and floor length, glamorous dresses were exaggerated with fur jackets and long, embellished capes. 1960’s dress silhouettes were referenced through short, buttoned up mini dresses and ostentatiousness was epitomised through heavy embellishments.
Day 1: Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Delicate pastels, structured silhouettes and snakeskin shoes were at the forefront of the Gucci FW ’14 show during Milan Fashion Week. The show displayed an array of uniquely cut dresses and luxurious fur coats in a colour palette that transcended from playful pastels to deep burgundies. Metallic silver details embellished deep black dresses and magnificent knee high snakeskin print patent boots.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
At MM6 Maison Martin Margiela looks were puristic, functional and straight forward. For Fall/Winter 2014-2015 the diffusion line embodied sporty apparel, urban style and absolute perfection. Accompanied by a moving live performance of Canadian singer Sean Nicholas Savage, the show graced with bonded textiles with a paper-inspired finish, laminated denim and cotton twill. Thick rubber-grip soled over-the-knee boots added a perfect finish.
Giorgio Armani Privé Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
As the title 'Nomad' tells, the Armani Privé Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014 collection on Tuesday night is devoted to the woman who moves around the world and picks ideas from the beautiful things she sees. A mélange of ethnical influences, melts together in absolute perfection and the demand of high-quality handcraft.
Opening the show with a line of sublime garments of daily clothing in deep blue shades, Giorgio Armani tops up in the second part of the show: when crystal-embroidered gowns, plissé skirts combined with slighty masculine-tailored blazers and organza crinolines with oriental elements embraced, were the essence of Giorgio Armani's glamorous Spring/Summer 2014 evening appearance.
Melinda Gloss at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mathieu de Ménonville and Rémi de Laquintane of Melinda Gloss made a contemporary silhouette with loose shapes and sharp tailoring for their Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Subtle ski-references were made with headbands, elastic hems and big parka's. The color palette was dark but deep with bottle-green, grey and purple.
Tillmann Lauterbach at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Tillmann Lauterbach's latest collection was called “Neo-Dada” and that resulted in a more losely way of tailoring and influences from the street. The rather monochromatic collection was dynamic in it's play with formal and informal and different lengths in the same silhouette. Colorful touches like orange gloves and tips of shoes, together with sporty influences made the show youthful, but the fabrics and techniques made sure the collection remained refined. Best results of these clashes were the tweed bomber, layered pants and roomy, hooded sweaters.
Saint Laurent Paris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mentioning rock and roll when talking about Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent is pretty much old news. Music, in all it's forms, is more than incorporated in the designers approach towards the fashion house. The soundtrack to his most recent outing was by the band Froth from Slimane's current whereabouts in Los Angeles. Coming fall, Saint Laurent Paris boasts Teddy Boys as the iconic men of the moment. Animal-prints were used on shirts and leather jackets and the shoe of the season was an updated creeper. Big coats in fur or tweed oozed subcultural excitement as well as traditional savoir-faire. The tailoring took note of the fifties youth-culture with three-buttoned suits, drainpipe legs, houndstooth, checks and classic trenches in gabardine or leather.
Patrick Mohr at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Freedom expresses a person’s ability to act upon their will. However, this statement’s boundaries hold true for the fashion world in particular. Dark-skinned models are still a rare commodity in designer’s shows. Patrick Mohr, the German fashion scenes enfant terrible, casted dark-skinned models exclusively for work hard. be mohr. – making a loud statement against arbitrary boundaries. With his show, he enticed the spectator to ponder questions of values and autonomy of decision. Front and center of Mohr’s tenth show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was model Papis Loveday.
His first, and only, appearance during Berlin Fashion Week along with choreographer Nikeata Thompson was a really special moment – an implosion of convention. And even though Mohr almost solely focused on the color blue, on its strength and its interaction with his designs, his fall/winter 2014/15 collection may very well be the most versatile vision of the designer to date. In all its facets, the strong cyan can be seen in blousons, coats, shirts, pants and even in ribbed leggings and socks. The coats had triangular crocodile appliqués on the back and sleeves - Mohr’s signature, which has so far accompanied ten invaluable seasons.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Sport was unmistakably on Bill Gaytten's mind for his latest collection for John Galliano. All looks were based around leggings and sneakers in all sorts of colors and designs. Longer tops had elastic hems to create a rounded effect and parka's had big hoods and cinched waists. Some looks were finished with more urban items like jackets and overcoats, but even they were made out of exquisite technical materials. The collection was given an upbeat touch with shiny surfaces and pop-colors.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Dries van Noten looked extra confident today when he took his bow after the Fall/Winter 2014 mens presentation. And why wouldn't he? His past seasons have not only gathered him raving reviews but also a loyal fan base and he just delivered another stellar collection. Instead of exploiting the formula he is known for, he took his core and moved on. There was still an aloof and bohemian spirit to the clothes, but Dries infused it with decadence from the sixties and seventies and more surprisingly: neon. Tie-dyed pants and jackets, victorian blouses and furs were all energized by colors as fuchsia, green and lemon. New was the graphic patchwork on flowing parka's and biker jeans.
Y/PROJECT at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glenn Martens outed his first menswear collection for Y/PROJECT and proved he no longer is a young designer; he delivers like the grown ups. The Belgian designer took over the house, where he started as an assistant, after the death of founder Yohan Serfaty. The collection started with a pair of big leather trousers and a slim jacket that was impeccably structured and slightly longer, hitting the leg just around mid-thigh. This made for a new and modern silhouette, highlighted by a sober color palette of black, grays, whites and browns. A Functional streak can be found on jackets with multiple zippers, big collars and pockets attached with small hooks, marrying decoration and practicality. Some of the best looks were seemingly simple; jeans and at shirt, but revealed Martens' ingenuousness on the back with a pull-up system forming a Y-shape on the back as a modern logo. The same system was applied to rethink the starkness of leather in a bomber-jacket. Although this was an avantgardist collection, sometimes a classic air found its way with suits almost nodding to a traditional three-piece suit.
John Lawrence Sullivan at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
John Lawrence Sullivan fall/winter 2014 was all about British examples of rebels like mods, skinheads and teddy boys. This resulted in quite a few high waisted pleated pants and creepers. It wasn't a retrospective though. Arashi Yanagawa made these influences from last century exciting and new with blown up stripes, metallics and furry knits. Other motives was minerals and marbles, which were visible in prints used for suits, jackets and parkas. This print was especially convincing when treated with a layer of plastic.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Miuccia Prada showcased a restrained, yet eclectic menswear collection. Once again, she proofed her skills for traditional high-quality craftsmansship and her well developed sense of adjusting colours. Sporting shawl collars and satin Shirts were ascesoriesed with multicoloured fey scarves. Her setting was held in a rather minimalistic ambiance, featuring a live orchestra with German music from the thirties.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Andreas Melbostad showcased a fearless, authentic and original tailored menswear collection. Born out of military inspiration, the line does not miss out on it‘s wild rock 'n' roll roots. Mirrored silver leather pants and bomber jackets are covered with badges and cut in a in a masculine silhouette.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
As an absolute highlight of second day at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014, fashion label Alexander McQueen showcased a tribute to the brands -very british- loyal high quality tailoring. Sarah Burton's choice of location and soundtrack underlined the collections dark sprit: staged in an old church and accompanied by Bauhaus's 'Bela Lugosi Dead', the collection itself was almost entirely black, sometimes paired with silver or gold accents. Sharp tailored suits, plaids and skinny trousers layered with kilts and skirts got highlighted by John Deakin's photo motive of painter Lucian Freud digitally printed on shirts and long double-breasted coats.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rock and roll was given a sleek makeover at the Saint Laurent FW14 show. Grungy tartan, leather, velvet and glitter were given a high fashion edge and 60s style mini dresses were worn underneath tailored overcoats to smarten up the dazzle. The collection comprised of just enough rock references to be exciting but used clean and structured lines to comply with a very fashionable look.
Iceberg for la Rinascente Milano
Iceberg launched a sweatshirt limited edition developed exclusively for the prestigious Milan department store 'La Rinascente'. The collection includes two models: a cotton gauzed sweatshirt with neoprene details that highlights the Mickey Mouse embroidery and a 'College' inspirated sweatshirt with the Iceberg historic logo.
The sweatshirts are now available at la Rinascente Milano, Italy.
#DIESELTRIBUTE by Nicola Formichetti
Nicola Formichetti launched his first exclusive capsule collection for the Italian denim brand Diesel under the promising title 'RE-EXAMINE THE PAST, RE-IMAGINE THE FUTURE'. To underline the fearless Diesel spirit and pay tribute to the DNA of the brand, Nicola 'examined' various legacy pieces in the headquarter factory of Breganze and customized found materials from the 35 -year archive in a new design. Each and every item in the entire collection is handmade and pushing the fashion quotient further than ever before. To keep iconography alive, the newly-appointed Artistic Director used found patches, displaying e.g. moto club images such as the eagle, all cut and laid by hand. Furthermore, red, white and green buttons praise the brands Italian heritage. The men's and women's ready-to-wear includes 45 pieces and consits of two segments, a denim capsule and a leather capsule, including jackets, shirts, vests, jeans and accessories.
Under his vision of the future, Nicola Formichetti was remaining true to the unique ways of distributing Diesel and therefore teamed up with celebrated photographer Nick Knight and his creative team, the SHOW STUDIO, to shoot an revolutionary campaign. The entirely new visual concept was shot with an iPhone, and retouched by filters of photo and video apps such as Instagram, Glitchè, PickPlayPost and Megaphoto. This unique look speakes the true vocabulary of a visionary take into social media.
The denim #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule is ready to shop online and in selected Diesel stores only, the leather #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule will follow in February 2014. Explore the outstanding online campaign at
Breaking the Ice by Yi Zhou
Italian label ICEBERG teams up with Chinese artist Yi Zhou for a very special and unique capsule collection including menswear, womenswear and acces- sories. The exquisite designs took it's inspiration from wild, scenic landscapes, hybrid animals and images of the sun, all captured on stylish T-Shirts, sweaters, shirts, hoodies and skirts. This collection symbolizes the perfect wardrobe for wanderlust and nature lovers.
A little documentary was directed by Yi Zhou to make this wonderful collection and it's spirit sensually perceivable to it's audience, later on seen at window dis- plays along ICEBERG'S prestigious shops. Yi Zhou is featured as a fictional cartoon character, which gets repeated, distorted and abstracted and has morphed herself into the strings of cotton sweaters and T-Shirts.
Breaking the Ice – ICEBERG by Yi Zhou will be available at ICEBERG stores worldwide starting December 2013.
By Rebekka Ayres
A concept conceived under the umbrella of one of Europe's wettest cities, Norwegian Rain is a label for the elements, fashioned for those who like their rainwear sartorial. The Bergen-based brand threads Japanese sensibility into function-rich outerwear, unperturbed by a market saturated by PVC raincoats and flimsy anoraks. For Norwegian Rain, performance is high, meticulously designed, and aesthetically aware, making the age-old dilemma between practicality and design wholly obsolete. Working in weatherproof membrane fabrics recycled and imported from Japan, designer T Michael and creative director Alexander Helle produce collections bespoke to the style climate of each season. Born from Norway's 'dugnad‘ tradition – a neighborly philosophy by which communities volunteer their services to achieve a common goal – it was the enterprising imagination of the brand that invited collaboration between Bergen's creatives, culminating in this finely-engineered fabrication. Materials are equally ethical, sourcing organic cotton and abstaining from solvents, while reducing CO2 emissions by 80 percent in the process.
Men‘s shapes take heed from the time-honored trench, with resourceful cuts shaking off the shackles of their fusty predecessors. Whether double or single-breasted, finishes defy their expectations. By displacing fastenings and concealing cryptic details, raincoats offer a Swiss army-knife variety of options, shape-shifting in seconds to an entirely new guise. Folds serve both high neck and open lapel, converting from spread to standing collar in a matter of moments. There is even a detachable hood to shield against the transient temper of the clouds. While silhouettes transform, color remains consistent, in a muted palette of olive green and greys. Herringbone takes black to a soft and subtle charcoal with its quiet texture, lending just enough elaboration to let the balance hang in the hands of form. Women, too, have a compass of choice, as classic belted macs unbuckle readily into swing capes. The unisex Raincho, meanwhile, marks Norwegian Rain’s most ingenious legacy to date, being at once a comfort staple and a sculptural marvel. Horn buttons punctuate the purity of its outer shell, enveloping the body with the considered vigilance of exquisite origami. Embracing the frame with downy cashmere linings, Norwegian Rain‘s scrupulously-constructed pieces give good enough reason to yearn for rainy days.norwegianrain.no
M.I.A. x Versus Versace
Artist and rapper M.I.A. has designed an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace, entitled ‘M.I.A. x Versus Versace‘. M.I.A‘s up-coming line is inspired by bootleg market stall fakes. “Versace designs have always been bootlegged, now it‘s Versace bootlegging the bootleg for the bootleggers to bootleg the bootleg“, says M.I.A about her idea. The line features 19-pieces for men and women and combines Versace‘s trademarks with the urban and original spirit.
Printed jeans, silk shirts and jersey dresses in bright and loud colours glaze with kaleidoscopic prints, graphical ornaments and versions of the famous Versace emblem. Mexican photographer Jaime Martinez shot the unique digital GIF campaign featuring images of M.I.A. and friends wearing the collection on East London markets.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace will be available online and in selected stores on 16 October 2013.
Marc Jacobs's last show for Louis Vuitton
First it was a rumor, now it is out: Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton. Being one of the most important American designers of the 21st century, Jacobs has been creative director since 16 years turning the iconic luggage brand into a new era of fashion-forward design. Jacobs leaves the brand to focus more on his own label in the future. His last appearance at Louis Vuitton was a poetic retrospective and breathtaking nostalgic performeance, awarding elements of former shows. Accompanied by dark, tragic and celebratory music the show announced the end of a grand era. As anticipated the collection embodied the extravagant, rebellious and genius essence Jacobs is loved for.
Immense peacock feather headpieces arised on the runway with black dominated garments. A clock, a carousel and fountain created a melancholic atmosphere and made this show be an elaborate highlight on last day of Paris Fashion Week.
A.F. Vandevorst at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
With the sand still in their hair and with rattling Bedouin jewelry announcing their arrival, it was clear that the A.F. Vandevorst woman for Spring 2014 was a nomad at heart. Slouchy silhouettes based around semi-transparent sarouels were anchored by dramatic collars and tailoring, while beading and metallic touches made the collection more sophisticated. This collection marked the 15th anniversary of the brand by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx and the collection featured some flashbacks, but at the same time it offered plenty of new propositions.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
On the third day of Milan Fashion Week the label Iceberg showcased a collection that reflected japanese pop culture and manga aesthetics. Young, fresh and modern were the key words, that young, talented designer Alexis Martial reached out for. He highlighted his stunning pieces by hologramms, prints and embroidered colourful patches, that showed the design of an abstract Iceberg. The collections colour base throughout was dominated by bright colours, white, mint and a light blue made of materials such as neoprene, silk muslin, rhodoïd bands and ultra sheer nylon knit fabrics, that were a product of a special textile process. Martial‘s mission to bring the house of iceberg to a new great dimension succeeded.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For the second day of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014, Prada sent out a collection that reflected femininity and female empowerment at it’s best. Eye-catching prints, which reminded of mural paintings and Richard Lindner dominated this artistic line. Most of the prints showed graphical images of women, which underlined what this collection is all about. Knife-pleat skirts, tube socks, shift dresses and coats with round buttons were showcased in the colour palette of mustard, lilac, turquoise and tangerine. Accompanied by hot vibes of Britney Spears new song "Work bitch!“ this show was a must-see at MFW Spring/Summer 2014.
Burberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Burberry Prorsum for Spring/ Summer 2014 season showcased a collection of warmness and fragility. Cashmere cardigans, new construed trench coats, gracile pencil skirts and tops of organza in pastel shades of lavender, rose, mint, and cornflower blue created an idea of something sexy and a little vulnerable but with something protective and safe and top. Laces with floral patterns underlined the romantic approach this collection had
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2014
Creative director Emma Hill showcased exclusive garments for the traditional english brand Muberry. To invite guests to its London Fashion Week show, Mulberry decided to send miniature teacups and saucers created by iconic English tableware and lifestyle brand Wedgwood. The miniatures were- held inside a box embossed with a traditional stately home, the guests’ first glimpse of the catwalk theme. The ‘dolls house’ teacup and saucer were based on the Wedgwood Jasperware in traditional Jasperware colours, which also beautifully reflected the seasonal tones in the Mulberry’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection.
Approaching a playful spirit, the designer managed to showcase a combination on traditional looks on one side and modernism on the other side. Speaking of British Heritage the collection included good quality fabrics such as luxury silk and leathers, all in creamy whites and monochromic colours. Culottes and wide overall’s, sleeveless dresses with flower patterns and leather skirts with simple tailored voluminous blouses on top played the key role in this extraordinary selection of pieces.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 womenswear Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, who is a former student of London’s Royal College of Art, showed off a duality of pieces in black, white and pastel colours. Diesel Black Gold’s edgy-chic look got highlighted by a range of dresses, skirts, blazers and tops with metal eyelets, zippers and buckles. Besides french braids created a girly, soft and romantic look. Appealing to a rather sophisticated and cosmopolitan clientele, Meldbostad succeed with showing numerous pieces in denim and leather, as well as assimilating silk georgettes in this collection. All in all his goal was to show “a new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness“.
Station to Station: A Public Art Project Made Possible by Levi's
This friday, artist Doug Aitken will commence his new project “Station to Station: A Nomadic Happening”, which will connect artists, musicians and creative pioneers of different disciplines. With help from Levi's, the brand that has been outfitting pioneers for more than 140 years, Station to Station will raise funds trough ticket sales and donations in order to support progressive projects in seven museums in the United States.
A train will go from New York to San Francisco during three weeks, making stops at ten different places along the way. While there, a series of happenings and interventions in the fields of art, music, cinema, literature and many more will take place. Doug Aitken designed the train that will act as a cultural studio and that will globally broadcast unique content and experiences from both the stops and the moving train.
Creatives participating in this project are among others: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Kenneth Anger, David Longstreth of Dirty Projectors, Olaf Breuning, Ariel Pink, Connan Mockasin, Peter Coffin, Urs Fischer, Meschac Gaba, Liz Glynn, Carsten Holler, Christian Jankowski, Dan Deacon, Savages, Dave Hickey, Barney Hoskyns, Rick Moody, Alice Waters, Leif Hedendal, Edible Schoolyard Project Aaron Koblin, Ernesto Neto, Jack Pierson, Stephen Shore, Rirkrit Tiravanija and Lawrence Weiner. For more information, visit www.stationtostation.com
Replay Design for Barça
‘Més que un club’: the slogan for the FC Barcelona says it all. Renowned for their flair in play, Barça are to team up with Italian company Fashion Box – the forbearer of Replay and its sister brands – to initiate a four year partnership as sponsor of clothing and footwear for the club’s sportsmen and women. Under the project, Replay will design an official clothing line, alongside a smart-casual line for the first team. Most celebrated for their innovative use of denim and characteristic indigo textile, the label will reinterpret the orthodox jeans philosophy in the fine lines of tailoring, resulting in a collection of unique and inimitable fashion pieces. More than a club? There’s no question.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century
He dressed the most beautiful women of the '80s, from Madonna to Grace Jones. Cited for his figure-fitting contours, as a designer, Azzedine Alaïa embraced the seductive shape of the female form, exuding sexuality to define an era. Now in his 3rd decade as an esteemed fixture of the fashion industry, Azzedine Alaïa continues to impart that sensual inflection that undersigns his work within his designs today, attracting such diverse clientele as Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama.
The exhibition, Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century, pulls focus on the important catalogue of work the designer has produced in the new millenium, showcasing his most significant and glamorous pieces from the last ten years. Curated by friend of 15 years Mark Wilson, the exhibition organises Alaïa's work by the his signature materials of the last decade; creations fall into fur, leather, velvet, cotton, chiffon, knitwear and animal skin rooms, illustrating the adroit hand of a mastered couturier, and, above all, that amorous appeal.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century runs until September 8th at the NRW-Forum, Düsseldorf.
Bottega Veneta Opens New Los Angeles Concept Store
Descending on the distinguished surroundings of Melrose Place, Bottega Veneta will open its doors to the most neighbourly luxury retail quater of Los Angeles with a freshly conceived concept. Its ivied façade left virtually untouched, the interior of the 2, 727 square feet store will tailor to discerning L.A tastes with sleek displays intergrated into a gallery setting, designed to strip down the artistry of each product to its bare essence. Displays will be curated to impart a selection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, gifts and home accessories succinctly, with emphasis on a tailor-made shopping experience for its clients.
Sliding steel fixtures and mesh panels will industrialize its pristine white shell, opened up by its flooding light and clean lines. The vision of Creative Director Tomas Maier, unexplored design combinations based on clarity and space set the boutique apart from its relations. Transparent resin imbeds mesh for a futuristic feel, while white frosted glass and lacquered wood enhance the sense of slenderness – a touch taken even further with the addition of its open-air courtyard.
COS to Launch Capsule Sterling Silver Jewellery Collection
With the visionary beauty of their last capsule collection still on everybody's minds, masters of minimalism COS are to launch a sterling silver jewellery collection, hitting the shelves this October. The limited edition line is to comprise of five key pieces; a ring, bangle, necklace, a stud and a hanging earring, each purified to a simple geometric shape for a clean-cut look that is typically COS.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Graciously composed in timeless black and white, the John Varvatos Fall/Winter 13 campaign stars American music legend Wilie Nelson and his sons in what makes for a beautifully fashioned family portrait.
Shot in Des Moines, Iowa by photographer Danny Clinch, Willie, Lukas and Micah – each an established musician – pose nobly before the stately architecture of Salisbury House. Embodying the strength of Varvatos' collection with his compelling presence, Willie's sense of style permiates through the images, as his own boots partner the black Hampton tuxedo and wing-collared shirt.
A short film accompanying the campaign will also premier the John Varvatos website on July 9th, in which the Nelson family perform the song Still is Still Moving to Me. Conversation cuts guitar-playing in this mini-documentary, which affords an intimate insight of music and memories – three minutes just doesn't seem long enough when watching this tender portrayal of a truly treasured musical icon.
Isabell de Hillerin Spring/Summer 2014
The beautiful and talented Isabell de Hillerin put forward a smart and relaxed collection for spring/summer 2014. Her label stands for elegance, structured cuts and details which remind of an old tradition. She works with fabric manufacturers from Romania and Moldova, a traditional artisan industry on the verge of extinction, which she is supporting. In her spring/summer 2014 collection, titled 'relief', embroidery either accentuates shoulders and necks or adds intrigue to clear cut shorts or shirts. The color palette spans from white, grayish beige and light lavender to a strong tangerine and royal blue with some black pieces in there. All allude to a midsummer day, when a brewing storm forecasts the imminent relief from the heat of the city. Isabell de Hillerin's designs balance this forceful color story in their almost masculine elegance: sharp Bermuda shorts meet ornamental shirts, wrap-around blouses, strong shift dresses and two pieces. Flowing skirts, deep v-necks, thigh-high slits and geometrical cut-outs add a subdued sexiness to the collection. The urban summer vibe once again showed when the models carried their pretty high heels in hand for final runway, strutting along to Bon Iver's 'Skinny Love'.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Nike Air Max Camo Collection
In tribute to the countries that have taken the Air Max trainer to the status of an international icon, Nike are to release a collection in a spectrum of country-specific camouflage prints.
First hitting the pavements in 1987 as a sports accessory, the Air Max now stands as a streetwear symbol of self-expression. Vintage camo prints from France, Germany, Italy, Japan and the United Kingdom will emblazon a range of styles, from the Airmax 1 to 180.
Design isn't the only element to be reinvented. Function, too, recieves a makeover. Nike Hyperfuse technology employs heat and preassure to form a single layered material, designed for stability, breathability and durability. The result delivers a lightweight product, packed with performance and without abraisive seams.
The Nike Air Max Camo Collection is available from selected retailers from July 3rd.
Vladimir Karaleev Spring/Summer 2014
Off-white, beige, taupe, dark blue and black – Vladimir Karaleev's world in colors. For his spring/summer 2014 collection he cut off delicate silk and chiffon, having the hems appear unfinished. In stark contrast, he teamed these pieces with sturdy jackets and pants, achieving a soft but cool look. Karaleev stuck to his tried and tested wide and loose silhouettes throughout the collection. However, with his delicate choices and sheer panels, sex appeal does not fall short. His combinations of almost tone-in-tone pant, top and waistcoat or jacket call for a windy summer by the sea, and his blue and black styles are a perfect update of the urban summer uniform.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Kaviar Gauche Spring/Summer 2014
Nothing says Spring like white organza, sweeping through the air like a soothing breeze. Collared up to the neck, it still whispers of the sun and freshly cut grass. Florals make an appearance – or perhaps not – only the negative space of their cut-outs can tell. Fine blossom appliqué parades sheer T-shirt dresses, while laser-cut petals perforate shell tops and fitted skirts.
Butterfly sleeves are fitting for the occasion, spreading their wings over light mini dresses and breezy silk jumpsuits. Save the intermittent flower motifs, ornamentation is scarce and color similarly subdued, allowing pleated folds and keyholed fabrics to stand up and be heard.
Dolce&Gabbana Childrenswear Fall/Winter 2014
Sometimes the best things come in small measures. No less could be said of Dolce&Gabbana’s latest childrenswear line, which proves every bit as good as its ‘parent’ ready-to-wear collections.
For girls, fun-size florals and mosaic prints flock simple sleeved shift dresses, paired with matching jewelled headbands and flower crowns to complete this season’s scaled-down runway look.
Boys and girls alike receive a wintry dose of heritage plaids, adorning statement separates in preppy cuts, satchel in hand and ready to tuck in a crisp white shirt. Checks take shape in all sizes, from gridded black woollen coats to trousers in Royal Stewart tartan.The collection offers pieces to cater for both conservative and contemporary tastes, saving room, of course, for a satiating helping of Dolce leopard print.
Valentino Fall Couture 2013
The Wunderkammer – that was the inspiration behind Valentino's Fall Couture show; a European renaissance phenomenon to keep an encyclopaedic 'cabinet of curiosities'. And what a treasure trove it was, each piece singular in its beauty.
Emerging from the cracks of scalloped lace, fine silk prints presented watercolor motifs in strokes so gentle they looked almost antique. Staghorn coral, chiseled stone and intricately embroidered birds were all part of this enchanting museum, cased by unadorned interludes in dusty camel shades. Lantern sleeves broke from tradition, still feminine against the resplendent bracelet lines for which the label has become known.
Velvets jarred with sheer speckled mesh, while tapestry coats provided a heavy cloak to the ankles. A beautious touch of chinoiserie made herringbone seem eclectic when stood in allignment, but it was the finale gown that brought it all to life: thick roulette straps tied at the shoulders to suspend the masterfully restrained blood-velvet bodice, picked tightly to the waist before falling into its arresting flare, as if spilling with the curiosa of the Wunderkammer.
Julian Zigerli Spring/Summer 2014
Swiss-born designer Julian Zigerli took the runway on day one of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection “At the end of the world to the left” plays with mixed boundaries, layering and de-constructed elements.Through the print collaboration with the Berlin based artist Katharina Grosse, Julian developed a collection of designs that embody this abstract space. A collection for a grounded man in an unknown place, surrounded by wind-blown colors and distorted forms. Like a mirage, an oasis in the desert, Zigerli’s collection unfolds and inspires with functional details in cut and fabric. His men’s collection stands for useful, smart and technical high-class pieces with a sporty-touch. There is always a lot of love, color, humor and positivity involved in his designs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Kilian Kerner Spring/Summer 2014
The first day of MBFWB drew to a close with the spring/summer 2014 show of Kilian Kerner. “HÖR NICHT AUF MIT TRÄUMEN” – don’t stop dreaming – is Kerner’s claim for next summer which he emphasized unconventional elements. Minimalist cuts were countered by vivid prints and a wild mix of materials. Graphic print combinations as well as gleaming metallic elements found their way onto shift dresses. Bare midriff tops combined with swinging skirts or laidback pants and shiny leather waistcoats on top of dresses met slim suits with bold leather details and floor length evening dresses with glitter effects. The juxtaposition of Kerner’s refined and elegant designs and the footwear of choice – the Nike Air Max 90 – made for an exciting and current overall look.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2014
Damir Doma s/s 2014 commenced with a passage in white, like he started with a clean slate. Structured jackets with broad bands in the waist were combined with wide shorts and T-shirts with sleeves that reached the elbow with high-waisted pants. After white a bright blue came around, sometimes with appliqués of photos on it. Some jackets were made from a material that can be best described as a big exotic skin, maybe a python. There was a practical side to the collection when emphasis was put on bombers, overalls and heavy cotton cocoon coats. The three closing looks were coats and jackets in a thick jacquard material in the deepest shade of purple.
Hien Le Spring/Summer 2014
Once again, designer Hien Le’s show kicked-off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection showcased Le’s signature minimalist designs for men and women with distinct features, such as collarless styles and invisible buttons. The collection embraced the designer’s familiar pieces such as bomber jackets and impeccably tailored men’s shirts. Fabric choices ranged from airy silks to sturdy outerwear material. For spring/summer 2014, Hien Le has moved a little outside his monochrome comfort zone in experimenting with expressive prints: stylized dragonfly wing images are sprinkled throughout the collection. The color scheme for next summer ranges from off-white and beige to an almost violet light blue and bright red combined with salmon.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
KRISVANASSCHE Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kris van Assche outed a clean and graphically strong collection for his Spring/Summer 2014 collection in fresh and bold colors. The Belgian designer started with suits and infused them with sportswear, resulting in boxy tops with lapels and a zipper across the stomach. The same characteristics came back on a garment which looked like a hybrid of a blazer and a bomber-jacket which were so voluminous that the models almost looked round from the side. Also round were the polka-dot cut-outs on the black sweater.
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In stead of choosing for an runway show, Jean Paul Gaultier decided to present his collection with a video in his iconic rue St-Martin townhouse. Gaultier is known for his provocative ideas and they were still there: bondage-influences, skirts and see-through fabrics but the collection was also full of fine tailoring and subtle casual-wear. Some ethnic influences made the collection light but they never took over the collection. Big stars were the sandals with elastic bands, which were both minimalistic and exotic at the same time.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2014
John Varvatos stole the wardrobe of a gentleman and tore out all the stitches. A blurred squint may kid the eye that it was seeing a refined silhouette, but by the splintered raw edges alone, it’s obvious the promises were all empty. Frayed silk scarves slip under suits, their sheen a side-effect of colour washed hue.
Spare a tight-fisted dash of navy, monochrome prevailed – like the shows of his peers. Varvatos’ distinction, however, was self-governed style; subscribing not to perceptible trends, pieces appear to keep wearability in mind. That’s not to say they will not trail blaze – just, perhaps, without the customary peacocking.
Bottega Veneta Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Bottega Veneta have print down to a science. A peculiar choice, then, to wave in their handiwork with a succession of unassuming prototypes.
And what parodying prototypes they were, mocking with their trompe-d'oeil tailor's chalk. Blueprinting pockets, lapels and buttons alike, it's a struggle to ascertain whether or not tailoring was, in fact, a taunting mirage. If the devil is in the detail, here was one feigning spirit.
Satire eventually gave way to sincerity, with those famously harmonised unconforming checks in harvest shades of oxblood and oat. Gridlock, too, had eyes transfixed, first pin-sharp and then waveringly hand drawn. In varying thicknesses they were, at the very least, potently hypnotic.
Form lent wonderfully to strict flutes of ivory, taking on a jazz timbre fit for the toe-tapping of correspondent shoes – were they not already beaten in the race by thatched leather loafers. Suede bombers made the look seem heavy, whipped up to jawline with layered turtlenecks. Had it not been for the soothing introduction of the open polo, the summer sun would seem menacing. Weather regardless, Bottega Veneta walked designs to be desired come rain or shine.
Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Prada’s prints certainly know the art of persuasion – seemingly repulsive at first glance, just a few more looks is all it takes before they blossom into something whole-heartedly desirable. Color, too, is applied with a masterful stroke, this time in melancholic hues which contrast and bejewel with off-kilter tones. Deep blood red - the kind reserved solely for velvet - cushions nuggets of equally opulent teal, to flock mournful holiday florals.
Hawaiian prints, not used to summers in the shade, seem wilted in amongst the cool air. With trousers long and layers heavy, together the look is vaguely autumnal. That is, until, dissected to standalone pieces, whereupon Prada bridges the gap between cliché and capricious.
Costume National Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Monochrome, it seems, was on the brain when design season came around for Milan. This time led by Costume National – and what a costume it was.
All-leather suits earned their place in a wardrobe outside of the '80s, in fringed black and with stetson in hand. Cowboy boots filled in the cracks left by their trademark stitching, re-emerging as baby-smooth ankle-highs, fit for the modern day Spaghetti Western.
Drainpipe pants purified the look in unblemished white until canvas tones wore through, making way for the pigment-bright shots of aqua and sunshine yellow suits. Such a performance can only be topped by the casting of gold lamé, which gave the show its roaring encore to a dress code that impishly specified black-tie.
Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star
Legendary graffiti artist Chaz Bojorquez and Converse have come together for a first-time collaboration. Bojorquez is of Mexican descent, but was raised in LA. Mexican-American “cholo” style graffiti from the 1940s and the harmony of Asian calligraphy are strong influences on his style. During the 1960s, he started his artistic work on the streets of the city. When he drew in East LA, the classic 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star was part of his uniform. Now, an edition of the sneaker will be a testament to his art.
The Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star features his signature skull tag, dubbed “Señor Suerte“, on the tongue and his scripts cover its inside. The insole features a black and white image of the artist at work under the cover of night. Keeping with the understated design, the shoe will be available in midnight black with suede heel caps. Other elements include nut-and-bolt style eyelets, vintage weave laces and a screen-print of Bojorquez' signature.
On Friday, June 28, the Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star will hit the Converse store in San Francisco with Chaz Bojorquez in attendance.
Philipp Plein Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer for Philipp Plein was a surprisingly eloquent pick 'n' mix of subcultures past. Rolling out almost fifty looks, Plein had plenty of room for manoeuvre.
The collection started out somewhere between ted and rockabilly before doing a full 180 to the baggy sweatpants of now. Black and red leather formed the skin of the collection, in weights ripe for biking and with the customary rocker studwork, Jackets were cut to hijack the wardrobe of the teds – complete with leather shawl collar, retro was rewired to duly home Plein's autograph laughing skull motif, amongst the scrapbook of patched denim. Snatching shirts from blazered models stripped back the costume of the look to the current day, paired with distressed-to-the-point-of-write-off jeans hugging hips just enough to give a flash of branded briefs. Where others fail to handle the retro's reluctancy to move with the times, Plein has indefinitely stolen from the best and made it his own, albeit with tongue habitually-placed in cheek.
Dsquared² Fall/Winter 13 Menswear Campaign
Hipsters and hepcats, bebop and scat – Dsquared²'s Fall/Winter collection took on a somewhat '40s jazz flavour, and their new campaign, starring Brahim Zaibat, also followed suit. Unveiled yesterday, photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot shot with a signature dash of technicolour, replicating the smoky ambience of the sordid speakeasy.
Shadows clamour in the dusky frames, pierced by opulent bursts of jewell-stained velvets. Black patent brogues lace tightly to Swing, until foot-tapping grows to the heavy-booted stomp of the army boot. Utilitywear enlists, with khaki wools and garrison caps reporting for duty, dressed down by distressed denim. Accessories, meanwhile, go to reference the age with military precision, with horn-rimmed glasses the serving accomplice to a jump blues beat.
Tom Ford Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Inverted florals adorning raw silk jackets makes for a slick wardrobe in anyone's books. When such designs are penned by Tom Ford, however, they enter a league of their own. Hawaiian prints played out on slim-fit tuxedo pants and tassel loafers slipped into cheetah skin: Ford's collection bought into the philosophy of the single statement piece, treading only the perimeters that skate the treacherous ground of layering; busy motifs can vie for the attention of everyone, and win the affection of no-one.
But with a pronounced tongue, luridness can translate to luxury. Ankle grazing slacks wink to modern day suave, while an iridescent sheen gives the fully-fledged nod. Beneath opulent blazers, staples veer anywhere between deep V-neck cuts and sky-high turtlenecks, with the classic shirt signposting the dependable middle ground of snappy dressing. A slick wardrobe then? Tom Ford brings new meaning to the term.
London Collections Men: Day 3
The last day of London Collections: Men and by no means the least, ushering the riches of menswear to the forefront in the form of Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford, to name but two. The schedule again promised an eclectic mix of established and emerging talent, kicked off by Shaun Samson – one of St Martin's most recent protégees.
Pulled-back embellishment left for a sense of clean line in Samson's latest collection. Powdery pastels laced between heavy monochrome, fueled by sparse doses of their pearlescent cousins. Fabric flipped between sheer and solid, with neoprene overrulling barely-there organza. The few drums of print hit like a snare, as numerical motifs punched through slack-fit knickerbockers.
The feeling at Nicole Farhi was equally subdued. Ice whites and mineral blues went reasonably unadorned, yet a neutral color-scheme offered a suprisingly vast spectrum of shades. Breaking the pallette, texture proved key, as rib-knits were paired with mesh and brushed wool, with longline coats the sole interjection of recurring print.
Bringing his show to a conventional showspace for the first time, little else was run-of-the-mill about Nasir Mazhar's runway show. Sweatshirts said 'streetwear' but holsters said 'workwear', as urban utility rolled out fashion's most unsuspecting trend.
Making the cut at James Long and Christopher Shannon was high-octane leather. Long fused graphic stripes into open-knit weaves – a complementary contrast to the optical prints whose skin-tight stretch delivered a subtle scuba vibe. Shannon's designs were equally spirited, with laquered hair to match laquered shorts. Where silhouette stayed simple, fabric was experimental.
London Collections: Men
London raised the curtain on the menswear calendar this weekend, with London Collections: Men shining a light on both heritage and emerging design talent. Seen in by Dolce & Gabbana's opening presentation on Saturday, Sunday saw designers Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll carry the flame. Kay Kwok's radical prints took an intergalactic turn, as razor-sharp tailoring flitted between minimalism and its converse – atmospheric motifs in an electronic palette, with organic line echoing that of the Earth's magnetosphere. Wet-look leather cut to all lengths grazed ankles and knees in muted monochrome tones, as minimalism made way for motifs.
Schoolboy-style short-suits were also on the menu at Mr Start & Mr Hare and Alan Taylor, where reinterpreted heritage fabrics echoed tweed and worsted wool, contrasting tough leather panels with dusty pinks and dirty lemons. Astrid Andersen, meanwhile, certainly staged a show to remember. Playing on the inherently masculine street vibe behind its sportswear concept, the gentle mystique of the lucky charm had more than a hand in its dusky jewelled tones. Atheletic frames were unashamedly emphasised by the figure-hugging lycra and the fragility of lace, not to mention the peek-a-boo cutouts which render sexuality of the collection not so transparent.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2014
When women's creative director Julie de Libran personified the muse for the Louis Vuitton Cruise collection as “the effortlessly chic French woman”, it all fell into place.
For the directional aide of the lookbook, boxy shapes are color-blocked and ditsy florals layered, yet standalone pieces work for showboats and wallflowers alike . Breton stripes and two-piece pantsuits tell of a confidence to flirt with androgyny, while soft-sheen fabrics take drop-waist sillhouettes to offset the balance back to that of an understated sense of femininity. Floor-skimming hems scream 'bohemian nonchalance', while fluid lines draw the eye along the outskirts of chic, simple tailoring – only to be jarred by the dense and oh-so-charming awkwardness of clunky wooden clogs.
Whether in jacquard or silk, denim or bouclé, de Libran takes a tour of France through a textured palette that is both fresh and in-keeping with Marc Jacob's boudoir-laced Fall runway designs. French or otherwise, the Cruise collection is, indeed, “effortlessly chic”.
Mulberry opens first Vienna store
Luxury British heritage brand Mulberry has opened its first store in Vienna. Nestled in the heart of its Golden Quartier district, the newly unveiled retail space reinforces the brand's growing authority within Europe, with plans to branch out into other major cities accross the continent in the near future. The store stocks its signature leather goods for both men, with seasonal ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories from the Mulberry womenswear line. Vienna will also become home to the exclusive one-of-a-kind Del Rey bag in Black Alligator.
Founded upon the impeccable craftsmanship of rural England in 1971, Mulberry has earned a reputation for construction of the highest quality, harmonising aspects of timeless tradition with contemporary design.
Over 262 square meters, the new store – designed by British architects Universal Design Studio – pays testament to Mulberry's roots. Swathes of bare oak, timber and limestone lend the location a warm, rustic charm, while accessory accents like white linen dressing tables prove irresistibly quaint. Ringing from the window display is the nostalgic song of the beautifully handpainted music boxes, playing melodies both English and Viennese alike. British pianist and choral director Catherine Field-Leather was called upon to rearrange Hey Jude and London Calling for these playful renditions.
In celebration of the opening, the store will host Afternoon Tea 'with a Viennese twist' each Saturday in July between 2-4pm, when visitors can experience a fusion of quintessentially British and Austrian taste.
Roberto Cavalli: Psychotic Love
Sometimes hysteria can get the better of us. For fans of Roberto Cavalli, the launch of the label's newest accessory may explain that neurosis. Psychotic Love is a short film for the brand, and a tale of one woman’s delirious obsession: her Hera bag. Sensational viewing is the least to be expected, shot by the lens of Diego Diaz Marin - whose photographic work is both wonderfully erratic and eccentric – Psychotic Love does not disappoint.
Through a spellbinding spectrum of kaleidoscopic colour, the woman’s state of torturous infatuation culminates in the moment she surrenders to her mania. Walking out out on her life, she abandons everything she owns - everything but her beloved Hera bag.
Fall madly in love with the Hera bag when it hits the shelves later this month.
Chiara Mastroianni for Fendi Perfume
On screen, Chiara Mastroianni's raw spirit radiates from a smile shrouded in mystery. It was only a matter of time, then, before the compelling charm of the actress would render her a muse. A new fragrance by Fendi is to be released this September, inspired by Mastroianni's unique femininity. The launch of the fragrance closely shadows Mastroianni's role in the film Bastards by Claire Denis, in which she features alongside Vincent Lindon this August. Magnetism must run in the blood, it seems, for the daughter of two cinematic icons. Her timeless elegance echoes that of her mother – legendary actress Catherine Deneuve – who fronted the Chanel No.5 campaigns in the '70s, while her alluring disposition owes distinctly to her father, Marcello Mastroianni.
Proenza Schouler win Womenswear Designer of the Year Award 2013
From the half-way point of 2013, the fine details of awards ceremonies gone by seem to get lost and prompts us to question whether or not we've seen it all before. One award, however, evokes a particular sense of déjà vu. Last night's CFDA Fashion Awards crowned designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler with the title of Womenswear Designer of the Year. The evening surely brought back memories for the two designers, who were first honored with the title in 2007, and once again in 2011. Other winners of the evening included Oscar de la Renta, who was praised for his “life and work” as he recieved the Founders Award. Breakthrough talent was also earmarked, as Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis were recognised for their emerging label, Suno. As the curtain fell, one thing was clear – here was an award ceremony that would certainly prove difficult to forget.
Givenchy's family values
Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy gathers his artistic family around him for the house's fall/winter 2013 campaign. In front of the camera we see Amanda Seyfried, Quim Gutierrez, Dalianah Arekion, Mariano Ontanon, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and her mother Carine Roitfeld, who also is the womenswear stylist. Other family members we find behind the camera are photographers Mert Alas et Marcus Piggot, menswear stylist Katy England and hairstylist Luigi Murenu. The campaign, in black and white, is about love and family values and shows the different people of the Givenchy-clan.
Tisci tells about the campaign: "The story goes on: on the set and outside the set with my family, Mert & Marcus, Luigi, Lucia, Carine, Katy… These people are my family. They have always believed in me. They are very faithful to me. Faithfulness and love are the most amazing things in what I want to do. I think it is a moment of history for me in fashion for my own gang. I want to credit each time the people that are very faithful to my style, and faithful as human beings. This time, there is a gypsy feeling because it is the inspiration of the collection. Again, the reality of someone like Carine with her daughter showing real love or Quim with Amanda is very special to me. All of them, including the models, are real gypsies in their own life. They are never in one place. They travel the world. It is a real relationship, not only physically, but also with a content even when far away…”
Once Upon a Time by Karl Lagerfeld
Imagine the French village of Deauville in the year 1913. It is also the same year that Coco Chanel opened her first boutique on the Rue Gontaut Biron, marking a milestone in fashion history. Those years before the first world war were years of glory and glamour, in its purest form.
To promote the Chanel Cruise 2013/14 collection, Karl Lagerfeld takes us back to those days. He created a black and white film starring Keira Knightley and Clotilde Hesme as curly-haired salesgirls in the back then brand new store of Gabrielle Chanel. Topmodel Lindsey Wixson also makes an appearance as the all-admired beauty from the city. The movie will be released on the 8th of May on the Chanel News website at the exact same time the Cruise collection will premiere at Loewen Cluster in Singapore on May 9th.
Prada Journal: A Place for New Stories
In search of new artistic talent, luxury fashion brand Prada has decided to launch a literary contest and shed light on the writers of tomorrow. Joining forces with the Italian publishing house Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Editore, Prada will be exploring language and the art of writing.
The rough theme of the contest is the individual interpretation of reality and how optical devices such as glasses and their lenses frame this reality. The question Prada poses is: “What are the realities that our eyes give back to us? And how are those realities filtered through lenses?“ Writing pieces are supposed to guide the readers through these realities and create worlds of written words.
The contest is now open for entries and the last date for submissions will be the 18th of June.
Adidas by Tom Dixon
The first installment of the collaboration between sportswear brand Adidas and industrial designer Tom Dixon was just unveiled at MOST during Salone del Mobile in Milan. A factory installation inside the space of a reconstructed 19th century railway station was the setting for the presentation of the new designs. Sleek sportswear and innovative apparel such as convertible travel bags are the core of the capsule collection.
Inventive garments like a parka that transforms into a sleeping bag or light hoodies to zip up into small pouches are true to Dixon's explorative nature and the forward-thinking technologies employed by Adidas. The highlight of the collection might be a spectacular modular five-in-one overall design that converts to a coat, jacket, pant, skirt, or short at will.
The collection stands out due to its high quality materials and production using British craftmanship. Mid November 2013 adidas by Tom Dixon will hit the stores worldwide.
Nicola Formichetti joins Diesel
It has barely been 48 hours since Nicola Formichetti annouced via his Twitter account that he will be leaving the French fashion house of Thierry Mugler. As everything changes at lightening speed in the fashion industry, his next move has already been revealed: Formichetti will be the new artistic director of Diesel, joining Renzo Rosso's legacy.
As an influential social media star, Formichetti plans to gain a following and create a new Diesel community via the online platform of TUMBLR®. They call it the DIESELREBOOT, the project will go live these days.
It is expected that Formichetti will bring fresh energy to the Italian label and reinvent the brand, just as he did with Mugler. The world is still left to wonder how this change will look like.
Candy L'Eau by Prada
There's a new girl in town – Candy. Prada's newest l'eau is hitting stores in April 2013 and it is much more than just a fragrance. It envisions the kind of girl that could be the next It-Girl. Independent and questioning the world, witty and intelligent, but also dreamy and sweet. The wearer gets to embody these qualities by just putting on a few drops of Candy – ultimately becoming Candy.
Along with the elegant cylinder shaped flacon in a rosé colour with the gilded Prada script, ZOO Magazine received a special book describing the Candy girl in detail. 'Candy from A to Z' finds matching attributes for every letter of the alphabet referring o the sweet fragrance itself or the kind of person it embodies. A like Armour, C like Caramel, J like Joie de Vivre, P like Party, U like Unpredictable.
It also hints the star of the ad campaign – L like Léa Seydoux. For the l'eau of Candy the French actress reprises as the coquettish woman with the even blonde fringe. The short film about Candy being torn between her two lovers Gene and Julius was shot by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola.
Soulland Meets Babar
The Danish fashion brand Soulland’s new collaboration has something very unique up its sleeve. The garments are covered in prints of the infamous elephant Babar, the grey big fellow in the dapper green suit. Babar driving a car, Babar trying on suits, Babar having his shoes shined. This elephant has style.
Whether it’s a colourful allover print or a sketch-like black and white drawing, the elephant is everywhere. The collection features simple T-shirts, sweatshirts, shorts as well as button-down collar shirts with short and long sleeves. The colours of the 100% cotton fabrics are kept simple in white, grey and black.
The first time the original art work by Jean de Brunhoff became popular was back in 1931 and has been well-loved all around the world ever since. However, Soulland can prize itself in being the first menswear brand liscensed to make use of the art work. The collection named ‘Soulland Meets Babar’ will launch at Collette on the 3rd of April and will be available in selected concept stores worldwide by mid-April.
100 Chairs: L’Arte Ritratto by Marni
The Design Museum London has just announced that the charity project entitled ‘100 Chairs: L'Arte Ritratto‘ by Marni has been nominated in the category 'furniture' of the Designs of the Year 2013 awards. It is the only fashion brand nominated. The winners will be decided by a jury on April 17th.
It's a collection of various chair designs, which were then brought to life and put together by ex-prisoners in Colombia. The aim of the project is to support and re-integrate prisonders into social and working life. The furniture style is common with Colombian families, but Marni took a modern spin on the classic chair designs by creating new woven patterns and colour combinations. The chairs' structure is made out of metal and colourful PVC threads.
Two models of the chairs will be exhibited at the Design Museum located at 28 Shad Thames in London from March 20th until July 7th. The opening times of the museum are daily from 10-5.45 hrs.
Mykita X Damir Doma Fall/Winter 2013
The outcome of the first liaison between Mykita and Damir Doma was the DD01 model for Spring/Summer 2013. With round glasses and mixing materials from horn to steel and metal, those glasses are one of a kind. Available as sunglasses for soon-to-come sunny days, the DD01 is hitting stores right now. After the successful collaboration of Mykita and Damir Doma, the fashion brand and millinery designer decided to work together again.
For Fall/Winter 2013 a new range of glasses will be released. There are three new models: the DD02, the DD03 and the DD04. From the DD01 til the DD04 it’s like watching an eyewear evolution and seeing one idea develop into the next. Throughout the whole collection the designers remain true to the aesthetic concept of using contrasting materials and creating visual contrasts in colour. The main material in the mix are stainless steel and acetate, which is a cellulose-based fibre. The circular lenses are manufactured by traditional lens maker Zeiss and available in different colours from brown to green. The DD02 and the DD03 are similar models, but the later one has an extra steel bridge linking the round lenses together. The DD04 puts its focus on the sculptural structure and organic form of the acetate. All of the models remind of a reboot of glasses from the 30s. Damir Doma called the second collaboration “the end of the first cycle of products“. This spawns a lot of hope that there are still many cycles to follow.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-14
A massive globe was placed in the middle of the Chanel runway for the Fall/Winter 2013-14 show. Celebrating the opening of the first Chanel store one hundred years ago, the white Chanel logo was pinned onto the globe’s surface marking the location of 300 Chanel stores in cities all around the world. The show and collection displayed the power of the luxury fashion brand and none other than Karl Lagerfeld could phrase its theme better: "It’s a tribute to the global Chanel."
Even the floor of the Grand Palais had a the seven continents on it, so the models in Chanel’s garments were literally on top of the world. The collection had many dark shades to it – black, grey and navy instead of white and bright colours. Mini skirts, stand-up collars and skirts with unzipped zipper details played a huge part into the rebellious feel of the collection as did accessories such as clunky silver bangles, metal chains as necklaces and fingerless mesh gloves. Gold was replaced by silver, from metallic thread to steal chains gracing leather boots. Simple and clear A-line shapes were combined with overknee leather boots looking almost like leather leggings.
There were a variety of fabrics, but as always the classic Chanel bouclé and tweed still found their right place in the shapes of tailored jackets and coats. The double length coats – short in front, but with a below-knee tail – was one of the key designs of this season. The collection looked more contemporary than ever and yet again Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the strong self of the Chanel woman.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Inspired by the simplicity of beauty that was the key to the portraiture of the 17th century, the designers of Valentino created a one of a kind Fall/Winter collection for the cold days of 2013-14. Showing off long braids accessorized with simple black headbands, all models were styled the same, which brought out their individual beauty even more. Their pure porcelain skin and puppet like faces complemented the stunning range of garments.
The collection’s most essential fabric was lace. All kinds of delicate lace were used for floor length dresses, bibs, collars, applications and cuffs, adding subtle details to each design. One of the most prominent designs was a dress with long sleeves and a slightly flared skirt ending above the knee. Their either black, red or blue fabrics were the perfect contrast to the creme coloured lace bibs.
All in all the whole collection was all about skirts and dresses and rarely featured any trousers. Occasionally there were a few pleats as well as colourful dresses featuring scalloped hems and see-through fabric. Use of red and white fur, the later with black spots, reminded of royal ermine coats, while leather gave an edge to the sweet looking dresses. Capes with hoods and coats with clear cuts looked like they were from an enchanted tale. The enchanted feel of the collection was underlined by flowery patterns and glittering sequins. Yet again it was another excellent Valentino collection.
Tilda Swinton for Chanel
Tilda Swinton is certainly one of those actresses who always fascinates with her unique personality as well as mysterious aura. ZOO Magazine #17 featured an exclusive interview with the eccentric actress and now Karl Lagerfeld himself chose her as the new face of Chanel's Metiers d'Art Paris-Edinburgh collection.
A perfect fit as her Scottish descent matches the inspiration of the collection. Lagerfeld photographed Swinton with her platinum blonde hair in an all-white ensemble of the luxurious collection. The final versions of the images will gloss the pages of magazines all around the world in early summer 2013.
Rebel Chique Diamonds by Royal Asscher
Only over the last couple of years the making of man-made diamonds has reached the right standards to be of use for the manufacture of jewellery. Unlike natural diamonds, the man-made ones might not come out of the depths of dark mines, but chemically, aesthetically and physically they are the same. Plus, man-made diamonds can vary diversely in colours, while in natural diamonds colour is extremely rare and expensive. This makes them especially attractive for the making of jewellery. The new diamond jewellery brand Rebel Chique wants to re-shape the way to think about diamonds. Instead of seeing diamonds as family heirlooms, they to create a new conception of diamonds being interchangeable high end accessories.
By making diamonds more affordable Rebel Chique wants to create the possibility to have new diamonds each season and for every occasion. However, man-made diamonds are not the product of mass production, but rather of craftsmanship. Before the launch of the Rebel Chique collection, ZOO Magazine was among the first 25 world-wide to receive an exclusive package showcasing one of the brand's diamonds. The company behind Rebel Chique is the Dutch Royal Asscher Diamond Company and since the launch of the official online store, the made-to-order jewellery is available all around the world.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
The heavy red curtains at the back of the runway opened and out came a parade of models wearing what looked like a tribute to religion and its architecture. For their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana let themselves be inspired by the monumental mosaics of architecture of ancient Italian churches.
Portraits of religious figures from the mosaics of the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily were featured on the dresses and tops. The look of the holy imagery was completed by using glistening sequins, golden threads and embroided crystals resembling rubies and emeralds. The models looked gorgeous – red lips, pure skin, large glistening earrings and especially their golden crowns made their look untouchable, like they were religious figures themselves.
Key designs of the collection were large, but still very feminine coats and tops with wide sleeves. Apart from the range of opulent golden garments, a number of elegant pieces of grey herringbone fabric joined the collection. Mini skirts and high waisted knickers in black brocade or embellished red fabric were combined with wide shirts and blouses. The main colours of red, white and black reminded of some of the most important liturgical colours, but sheer lace dresses revealing the models' black underwear were not as innocent as rules of the Catholic chuch permit. Despite the current disputes surrounding the Catholic church due to the pope's resignation, Dolce & Gabbana well in using religion as its inspirational source and enriched the fashion world with yet another beautiful collection.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14
During London Fashion Week Vivienne Westwood took over the space of the Saatchi Gallery. There is always a rebellious feel and a punk attitude to Vivienne Westwood's collections and the presentation of her Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection was no exception.
A bright azure blue was chosen as one of the most dominant colour of the season combined with tones of red and black. Zebra patterns, plaids and stripes were reocurring patterns amongst many others. Tailored blazers and dresses with cowl necklines brought out a new femininity and elegance. Knee length skirts and loose trousers were key designs of the collection, while a few mini skirts and colourful shorts still retained a young and sexy spirit. A lot of shimmering fabrics were used for the collection. Highlights of the show were a long geometric cut coat with wide stripes as well as the colourful glittering zebra dress with the black tulle underskirt that seemed like the perfect frock for a punk princess.
The make-up of the models looked otherworldy, perhaps like a crossing between an Asian doll with procelain skin and a female clown. However, it made the models' looks all the more intriguing and beautiful with their full red lips and turquoise to yellow eye shadow. Be it the styling or the designs, Vivienne Westwood never conforms to what other designers do. It was no surprise that her ability not to abide by the rules and to go through with unusual ideas produced yet another unique collection.
Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2013-14
The key to Tommy Hilfiger's new Fall/Winter collection was to apply tailored cuts of menswear designs to a womenswear collection. The result is a range of sharp and sophisticated garments, that are wearable every day of the week. It was Hilfiger's goal to bring the 60s and 70s back, but in a modern way.
Tailored shorts and mini skirts serve as bottoms, while jumpers with V-necks and buttoned up blouses are the tops. The patterns of the collection include all kinds of checks – from Prince of Wales plaids to black-white-red houndstooth fabrics. But instead of keeping it simple, the different patterns are combined in each garment. Black and white checks meet deep red plaids, however in a way that it doesn't confuse the eye. The most used colours are dark red, camel, creme, navy and black.
The collection is all about outerwear and layering. Jackets and coats with leather or shearling trims for snowy days are versatile and easily combined with any other piece to be worn beneath. Chic shoulder bags with golden chains as well as high boots finish off the look.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The new Miu Miu Spring/Summer Campaign was taken on by the photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Having shot many campaigns for fashion houses such as Dior or Yves Saint Laurent, this is yet another work to add to their long list of fashion films.
The campaign depicts seven women surviving in the modern world protrayed by important models of the current fashion scene, including Adriana Lima and Bette Franke. On the one hand these women seem strong and confident in furry frocks and leather gloves, on the other hand they look fragile and alienated in thin slip dresses. Their whispering, secrets and close relationships empower them, while they long for a retreat and a chance to daydream at the same time.
Especially Bette Franke leaves an impression, featured with fiery red hair and pale skin. The model reminds a lot of Monica Vitti's character in the Italian film “Red Desert” from 1964 by Michelangelo Antonioni. Isolation in the industrial world is one of the central themes of the movie and the same topic is challenged again with the stunning visuals created by Inez & Vinoodh.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
Leather-look, all in black and white – these are the leitmotifs of the new Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14 womenswear collection shown at the New York Fashion Week. Of course there are other fabrics such as dark denim as well, but anything leather-looking is surely a fabric of the collection. The new creative director Andreas Melbostad is bringing a rebellious rock chic back.
Zipper details appear on the side of biker jackets or diagonally on extremely short mini skirts. Studs out of dark grey metal cover jackets and dresses, while wide belts with square metal buckles and square hand-held clutches are an accessories to jeans and coats. Never have stand-up collars and tight fitted woolen pants looked more defiant. Wide boyfriend shirts made out of thin fabrics add a casual dimension to the otherwise so slim-looking silhouette of the models.
Determined and strong are the looks Melbostad is going for with his new collection. The models wear black eyeliner, stare coolly into the photographers lenses and their wet hair is combed back sleekly. It's the discovery of the new Diesel Black Gold woman.
Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2013-14
Rebellious black bomber jackets and oversized coats are sported by young looking models with slim physiques and a whiff of coolness lingers in the air around them. Leather sleeves contrast dapper quilted fabrics. Once again Belgian designer Tim Coppens proved how excellent he is at designing versatile outerwear by presenting his Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection at the New York Fashion Week.
But that's not all there is to the collection. Smart white shirts with zipped up pockets and button-down collars or black turtlenecks of fine wool look fine on their own but are just as well combined with any other piece of clothing.
The black and white theme is continued throughout the whole collection with some grey and red accents. Black and white unite in a playful pattern that looks like someone took a spray paint can to white clothes and sprayed them with black paint at will. Tim Coppens creates garments that are true to a boyish spirit, but never stop to look grown-up as well. All in all it is definitely a collection men of all ages will be looking forward to for Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Closed Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign by Closed has a young and fresh feel to it. The 16-year old German model Esther Heesch is accompanied by Swedish model Lingus Gustin, whose aethestics fit well together.
The couple was photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby against a clear blue sky and all of the photographs seem to be in soft and light colours. The garments look casual and range from thin jeans and chambray shirts to light white cotton trousers. A matching video clip by Jonas Lindström shows the young models diving into a pool, splashing water and glistening water surfaces as well as the two of them looking up into the sunlight and open sky. It is full of symbols for freedom and the love of being independent. As new as the campaign is, so is the design of the Closed website. Following through with the simple black logo on a white background it got a makeover and is now ready for summer to come. A nice feature is the display of all the different key looks with pictures of tiny models, who seem to move around their frames freely.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
When the Lanvin Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign was shot in New York City last year by Steven Meisel, the creative director Alber Elbaz was held up in Paris. But that didn’t stop him to be part of the shoot. After all he was only a Skype-call away.
The campaign video starts off like a normal ad, with the typical white Lanvin script and the music of pounding drums. Models like Karlie Kloss and Saskia de Brauw pose slowly and throw intense looks at the camera. The white-blue lighting gives the whole scenery a slightly cold atmosphere, but the garments including black suits, deep V-neck dresses and low-cut swimsuits seem all the more elegant.
Then suddenly the clip is interruped by the monotonous ringing of a Skype-call. Alber Elbaz is calling to check in. He’s immediately pleased, praises the looks of the models as “divine“ and can’t stop to express his enthusiasm. The light and humorous approach to the new Lanvin campaign will definitely make the viewer smile.
Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14
Golden light flooded the Galerie Thomas Schulte reminding of a setting sun when the Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14 show took over the space during Berlin Fashion Week. The presentation of the German-French label’s new collection was more than a mere runway show, but an installation entitled Somewhen lasting for about two hours.
The title refers to the mix of ethnic influences from different cultures and times. Interesting headpieces such as turbans, broad-brimmed hats with fluffy pompoms or tight hoods with sparkly fringes catch the eye at once. The collection is all black and features diverse fabrics from black leather to delicate see-through fabric including sequin or furry details.
The models’ nude make up and stern facial expressions put all emphasis on the garments and create a mysterious vibe at the same time.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
For the second time designer Philipp Plein works together with the renowned photographer Terry Richardson. Their aim was to produce an ad campaign showing sophisticated and strong protagonists reflecting on the brand’s one-of-a-kind identity. It’s also a tribute to contemporary women.
The backdrop is a modern version of the inside of Versailles. Dark wood panelling and bright neon light instead of candle light are the setting. The stars of the campaign are Brazilian transgender model Lea T, British model Poppy Delevingne and none other than Mr. Richardson himself. With their different looks and personalities, the two models show strength and sensuality in their own individual way.
From heavy jewellery, studs and black leather to delicate lace and silk the looks of the campaign are rebellious, seductive and luxurious at the same time. More pictures can be seen on the official Philipp Plein website.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
Sophisticated as ever Jil Sander presented her new menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2013-14. Minimalist designs make the collection what it is and show the Jil Sander man of next season.
Double breasted smart jackets and coats with lines of three round buttons are key pieces of the collection. Another great detail are the deatchable stand-up collars. They add a touch of formality wherever they are attached, from thick wool chechered coats to sleeveless black fur tops.
While most garments are kept simple in colour and pattern, the only reoccurring pattern is that of stripes – either regular stripes covering navy suits or diagonal ones accross woolen jumpers. Colours range from traditional colours used in Jil Sander’s collections such as black, grey, dark green and blue to a bright red.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
“The Cosmic Tour” is the title of the Diesel Black Gold menswear F/W 2013-14 collection, which showed in Milan earlier this month. It is taking major inspiration from the psychedelic style of guitar legend Jimi Hendrix and anything to do with interplanetary travel. The models remind of rock gods in eccentric dress and look like they are on a music tour – through the whole universe.
Geometric hexagon prints meet organic paisley patterns and give a clear contrast between structure and softness. From chic to casual, the collection has it all: Shiny chic suits for the night, sporty jackets for the day.
Bright reds, blues and greens are the dominant colours. Unique pieces such as big furry coats and waistcoats reflect the individual looks of the models: They range from long blonde hair over tousled full brown beards to tattoo covered necks like real rock stars.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Fall/Winter 2013-14
Persian-German designer Boris Bidjan Saberi goes all black again the coming Fall/Winter season and gives most other colours a pass. Black is the main colour of his new collection, with shades of grey or white making an appearance. Sharp cuts and clear lines define the garments. Jackets with a military feel and slouchy coats held together by belts are key pieces. These garments give the impression of clear structure and spontaneity at the same time. Striking are also the varied collars – from wide slouchy ones to high fold-over and hidden zippers on the side.
As always the designer focusses on detailed handcraft tailoring and uses a wide mix of fabrics. Leather is one of the essential materials of the collection, its use ranging from edgy black sleeves to elegant leather gloves. The look is finished off with sleek hair and woolen hats. In addition the models wear classic backpacks in the likes of cool college students.
Sunday night, the 27th of January, is also the book launch of Saberi's first monograph. The book is retracing his past eleven collections and is published by Atlante Libri. The launch party will take place at David Lynch's infamous Silencio club in Paris.
Rick Owens' angels of the street
Rick Owens returned to the street for his fall/winter 2013-2014 collection after some time spent in the couture-area. The balance he found this season was exceptional, starting with the way the hair of the models was styled. Long-haired boys had frizzed hair creating a romantic image as they passed with red or blond clouds flowing around them. The collection started with an A-line silhouette and big sleeves, making it at some point hard to tell they were soldiers or angels, or maybe both. Last season there was no trouser to be found, with the models only wearing floor-length skirts, but this season the skinny trouser made a comeback, tucked into big and chunky boots. Obviously, graphic forms are a staple in Owens' work, this time created by shrugs tightened around the shoulder and reveresed colars, pointing upward. Two oversized tanktops, one in stiff cotton and the other in black fur, made for exciting silhouettes, reminding of the collections back in the nineties that promised nothing but good to come for menswear.
The New Dandy
The year 2011 marks Gucci's 90th anniversary. In celebration of this milestone, Creative Director Frida Giannini “explored Gucci's codes from many perspectives reintroducing elements from the DNA with the 70s and the spirit of dressing iconic men as a reference.”
The result is a new dandy. One who loves to seduce mixing vanity and tradition. Soft mohair sweaters, tailored suits, subtle biker touches, rock 'n roll furs. The Gucci Fall Winter 2011/2012 Collection becomes a kaleidoscopic story where the only rule is a strong personality.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Lily-Rose Depp for CHANEL
Following in the footsteps of her mother Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been made the new CHANEL ambassador and the face of its Pearl eyewear collection. The embodiment of youth, modernity and femininity, the young actress plays a baby doll surrounded by a lofty world of sweetness and style. Her appearance at the Haute Couture show signalled the start of Ms. Depp’s journey as CHANEL’s fashion darling. Discover the Pear eyewear collection campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld in September 2015.
Rihanna x Stance: Murder Rih Wrote
Stance has announced that Rihanna is joining the unique sock brand as its contributing Creative Director and named a Punk & Poet brand ambassador. In celebration of this new venture, Stance has released two limited edition styles called Murder Rih Wrote, one in an over-the-knee style and one as a crew sock. Each set is a true collector’s piece, with only 1500 sets produced. Rihanna’s complete Stance sock collection will be unveiled this coming fall, a collaboration that epitomizes the rule-breaking, carefree and self-defined essence of both Rihanna and Stance.
Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
After 20 years heading the Fendi house as its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld proves is unwavering presence as a force to be reckoned with within the fashion world. He is the only couturier with a second show at Paris Fashion Week, and as imagined, did not hold back. The show proved as controversial as expected. Its title Silver Moon, the house’s first Haute Fourrure (High Fur) collection drew astonishment both from the public and the audience, a feat the very experienced couturier has managed time and time again. The collection was impressive in its showcased technicality, with Lagerfeld expertly mixing furs, feathers and spectacular embroideries that intended to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship in fur since 1925.
Herr von Eden v MÜHLE Shaving Culture
Together with MÜHLE, Herr von Eden is launching a set of premium-grade shaving accessories for all men with an eye for quality and style. Good taste and an attention to detail are perfectly combined in this elegant shaving kit. Timelessly and traditionally crafted, the shaving set consists of a high-quality shaving brush with a handle made of resin, in combination with a low-maintenance synthetic fiber — the Silvertip Fibre ® - a MÜHLE innovation. In addition to this highly constructed kit, the aloe vera shaving soap ensures a thoroughly enjoyable shaving experience — for the cultivated gentleman.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Drawing from the animal-inspired imagery of Asian origin, Kim Jones presented a silky, aloof and quirky collection at Paris Fashion Week. As seemed to be the trend with the menswear collections recently, Jones drew inspiration from the intermingling of cultures and notions. Apparent in his garments were the sporty essences of the American variety: accessories resembled bowling bags, sweaters and letterman jackets were fashioned with a Louis Vuitton high-fashion tweak. Indeed following the spectacular womens’ resort collection, Jones does not disappoint. There is something in this collection for anyone, and it is with this strong sensibility for wearable eccentricity that the 2016 Menswear collection shines.
Raf Simons Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Bags were flung across shoulders attached to a literal chain – imitating a heaviness of memory and past. Indeed, Simons’ influences were perhaps more obvious than not, with headscarves cloaked around the models’ faces and that patterned beige coat that seemingly every single elderly woman ever depicted onscreen is in possession of. The chained bags might be symbolic of these vestiges of the past, clinging onto the next generation – here, most explicitly, through clothing. Raf Simons’ collection is perhaps steeped in somewhat heavy conceptualism, but it’s also totally cool.
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Alessandro Michele does not veer from the pristine vision of a John Lennonesque man brought to life in a reformulated sense. With tinted eyewear, flowered lace and shabby-chic hair, the Gucci man emerges as a well-stocked, well-researched vintage savant. Even with such direct references to the 70s silhouette, Alessandro seems to aim more at playing with the aspect of youth culture and the fashion choice of eccentricity, who often draw from old closets.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
Acne Studios Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspired by the unisex approach to dressing in 70s New York (mostly in the shape of his love of the hard rock band New York Dolls), Jonny Johansson - Acne’s creative director - has taken to creating a bold collection. Following his experiences surfing with surfer come artist Robin Kegel in the Swedish oceans, Kegel’s distinctive surfboard art has colored the collection with individualism. Printed on loose fit jumpsuits in poplin silk and cashmere sweaters, Acne’s take on the hard-rock 70s Swedish surfer is supremely awesome. With billowy shirts, abstract graphics and vivid red, blues and greens, the Acne collection is certainly made memorable.
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
The New G-SHOCK MRG-G1000
For more than 30 years, G-SHOCK wares have ascended upon the time-telling industry with impact due to its Japanese-made (Made in Japan) engineering. G-shock was born from a desire to create timepieces of enduring quality. The robust double-coated Titanium housings envelop the newest in G-shock developed technology - creating a near indestructable timepiece.
The latest addition to the G-SHOCK MR-G flagship series is the MRG-G1000. Shock-resistant and stocked with a hybrid GPS and Radio controlled timekeeping system, the independent solared powerded MRG combines affinity for technological utility with a classically strong aesthetic. Made from Titanium with a diamond-like coating which protects the MRG-G1000, the watch is strengthened by a face of sapphire glass, making the piece both anti-reflective and scratch resistant.
Replay Spring/Summer 2016 in Mykonos
Ringing in the summer season on the Greek island of Mykonos, Replay hosted about 700 guests for the launch of their 2016 SS collection. Treated to a sun-filled show with models such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bar Rafaeli and Sara Sampaio, the Nammos Beach Club set the stage for Replay’s theme ‘Destroyed Denim’.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Inspired by the idyllic surroundings of the Mediterranean, the collection is wholly emblematic of the laid-back, relaxed lifestyle of island trendsetters. The theme effortlessly pairs the rugged styles of Replay’s classic denim wear with billowing, bright fabrics.
Miu Miu Fall 2015 Campaign
Unveiling another elevated lookbook, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns have reigned supreme in shaping high street trends. From the angular yet plush handbags to the heeled brogues – their 2015 fall campaign just might set off another rush towards vintage revival.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s images tell the story of Miu Miu’s ongoing affair with the power of opposites. Starring model Estella Boersma, the images reflect the items’ sophisticated and the innocent play with the sensual and confident, through a femininity that treads a multiplex path. This juxtaposition is reiterated in the incorporation of vintage upholstery-inspired fabrics in combination with contemporary masculinity in the form of tailored shorts suits.
Exploring the subtle and direct oppositions of form and silhouette, Miu Miu brings to the table a closet packed with desirables.
Filippa K: Sustainability Is The Guide To Growth
Filippa K’s newly launched online platform finally communicates their long-term efforts towards sustainability in fashion.
Founded in 1993 by Filippa Knutsson and Patrik Kihlborg, their vision “Fashion where sustainability is the guide to growth” is channeled through a wardrobe consisting of stripped-down, simplistic designs, essential pieces. Garments of clean design and high quality seem intrinsic to the Scandinavian philosophy, where the flexibility of designs easily transition from season to season and year to year. Durability and a timeless quality is key in this configuration, where style not necessarily opposes sustainability.
Inspired by ecosystems and planetary boundaries, the company is devoted to the reduction of the textile industry’s environmental and social footprints. Their choice of materials and production practices reflect an acute awareness of the long and exhaustive supply chain, in an attempt to produce less of what is needed and deliver long-lasting garments. Their recently launched products “front runners” are completely recyclable in the fabric tencel (wood), including the corozo nut as buttons.
We want to be part of the solution rather than add to the problem.
This philosophy is based on two main concepts: The Curated Wardrobe and Circular Design. A curated wardrobe is simple rather than excessive, and should be created to last over time – the ecosystems and its inherent processes of reuse in turn inspire the circular design concept.
To read more about Filippa K’s Sustainable philosophy, visit their website at:
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
Antony Morato Celebrates Italian Tradition
As a typically Italian brand, Antony Morato has shown that it is all about culture, style and the passion for beauty. To celebrate Italian tradition and their heritage, the brand has decided to become a part of the restoration of The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, an Italian classic. This elegant masterpiece stands for what Antony Morato strands for, and continues to inspire us. The film was directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1970 and won an Academy Award in 1972.
Bottega Veneta opens their first Home Collection Boutique in Milan
It is just like every thing else Bottega Veneta is about: extremely sophisticated and elegant, made with the highest quality materials and crafted by hand. Bottega Veneta’s home collection includes furniture, lighting and home decoration. For the first time, the brand has opened a boutique that is completely dedicated to this collection, right in the heart of Milan.
You can visit the store at Via Borgospesso n.5 in Milan.
Hermès as Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision on Hermès for the first time with the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Even though the entire show was essentially Hermès, Vanhee-Cybulski managed to show her own signature as well.
Since Hermès is well known for their leather, she has chosen to put some extra focus on this natural material for next season. The cuts of the garments are straight and give a minimalist vibe. All of this is enhancing the idea behind Hermès luxury; modest luxury with the highest quality, which is made for the wearer to enjoy.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
If we try to predict how the streets will look for next fall, we can simply start by showing you the latest collection by Kenzo. Once again, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have created a collection that is going to be everywhere.
Perfect Kenzo prints, bright colors combined with deep, darker ones and layers of sweaters, skirts and pants. Flowing, light skirts and dressed with large, warm shearling jackets reach perfect balance. It as a highly commercial, beautiful collection, that we won’t mind seeing everywhere.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
J.W. Anderson at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
J.W. Anderson is showing us something we have never seen him do before. He is introducing a new way of layering, with green, black and white corduroy pants under skirts and dresses. Anderson’s inspiration is visible in every part of the collection. Exaggerated shoulders, bright colors, draped velvet, shiny metallic and large plastic rings that accentuate the waist all reflect the early eighties.
Ankle length leather coats in light pink and dark brown and knee-high boots with draping on the top stood out the most during his show.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
Gareth Pugh at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Not only is Gareth Pugh back in London for the first time in years, he has also chosen to take his homeland as an inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. During this show, Pugh’s hooligans were ready to take over the city that once belonged to him. Painted faces linked to British football supporters, while headpieces with chains and tailored jackets clearly referred to the guards in front of Buckingham Palace.
The girl that Pugh introduced was somewhat of a royal dominator. She was extremely confident and powerful, which showed in the grand, static silhouette and use of strong materials such as stiff leather and metal. Pugh managed to take everything we expect from Britain, and turn it into something completely surprising.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
Valentino New York Flagship Celebration
On 10 December, 2014, the House of Valentino will celebrate the recent opening of its new Fifth Avenue flagship store. The evening will see the presentation of an exclusive Haute Couture capsule collection, created especially for the event by Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The magnificent 20,000 square foot store, conceptualised by the brand’s Creative Directors in collaboration with ‘David Chipperfield Architects’, houses women’s ready-to-wear and accessories as well as the complete men’s collection. A special area is dedicated to Denim Made to Measure.
Opened in August 2014, the Fifth Avenue location is the second Valentino boutique in the Unites States to carry the men’s offering.
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
WUNDERKIND Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Adopting a sophisticated aesthetic with an eccentric edge, the WUNDERKIND Fall/ Winter 2014 campaign interprets the quirky yet cool style of the collection.
Depicting model Sara Sperling against an intriguing painting filled artistic studio backdrop, the campaign is exciting yet chic as it exhibits a lively and elegant theme.
Describing Sara Sperling’s role in the campaign, art director Wolfgang Joop declares "In the chaos between arrival and departure she retains her sovereignty. She moves effortlessly between opulence and nonchalance and embodies the strong and confident woman WUNDERKIND stands for."
Akris Pre Fall 2014
A bold colour palette and slick silhouettes composed the Akris Pre Fall 2014 collection with distinct prints, chic suits and shapely jackets.
Inspired by the 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde, the collection fuses stylish sophistication with cool elegance to create a slick and sleek amalgamation. High waist trousers paired with smart shirts, nude heels and berets exuded cultivated style while sharp leather jackets added a contemporary aesthetic.
Creative director Albert Kriemler embodied the iconic style of actress Faye Dunaway through red, white and black prints producing a 'sleek glamour' style and a strong disposition.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
This time around Hien Le mixed things up a little by showing on the final day of Berlin Fashion Week, instead of opening the extravaganza. He still stuck to the purist, clean, understated designs that make the young Laotian one of Germany's most sought after designers. SS15's color palette is predominantly pastel, reminiscent of a fresh and sunny spring morning. Soft mint, white, light gray, royal blue and tangerine are mixed with fish and jelly fish prints, but the collection never turns loud or kitsch, but rather remains within the minimalist boundaries of the New Objectivity. A gimmick in Le's designs is the use of coated cotton, which appears to be soft leather.
Silk and chiffon add a soft touch to midi dresses, which Hien Le uses as layering pieces. Mesh shirts and full skirts loosen up the outfits, as do asymmetrical hem lines and peek-a-boo details, making Hien Le's SS15 collection surprising, stylish and understated. He is certainly one of the designers who have found their aesthetic and will stick to it, all the while keeping the crowd on their toes.
Sandro Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Capturing "two young artists in their element" the Sandro Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign epitomizes dark and stylish elegance.
Starring model Edie Campaign in her third collaboration with Sandro, the womenswear is chic and casual yet sophisticated. The menswear, modelled by Elliot Vulliod comprises of sleek and laid back proportions and silhouettes, combining the relaxed with the cosmopolitan.
The campaign, shot by photographer Karim Sadli will appear in the September issues of magazines.
Laurèl at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Elisabeth Schwaiger was obviously in the mood for a sun-downer when designing Laurèl's SS15 collection. Tropical prints, tie-dye, fringe, crochet and ethno appliqué are the codes by which the quintessential hippie look goes by, and strutted down the runway here. In tried and tested Laurèl fashion, designs didn't go overboard, making sure that the holiday vibe may carry over to the office during the glimmering summer months. Pant suits, leather pants and jumpers for work, mini and maxi dresses as well as kaftans for play are the staples of this SS15 showcase. Vibrant turquoise, azure and grass green furthered the summer holiday feel of Schwaiger's versatile and wearable SS15 collection.
Marcel Ostertag at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
The motto “Modern Bohemian Rhapsody“ set the tone for Marcel Ostertag’s SS15 show during Berlin Fashion Week. The collection aimed at celebrating versatility first and foremost by employing Ostertag’s characteristic design elements such as material mixes. Chiffon, cotton and high-tech fabrics marry to create intricate design details. Overall, floor length gowns and étoile dresses are spiced up with neon prints. Almost understated sweaters do pop afterall in shades of neon green an orange. Ostertag puts the boho in his rhapsody by adding fringe to skirts and coats – an all time classic. Towards the end of his showcase Ostertag calmed the runway down by sending out slightly quieter styles in black and brown, see-through shirts and the classic trench, proving himself to be a jack of all trades that never seizes to amaze.
MALAIKARAISS at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Womenswear label MALAIKARAISS wants us to stay “Wild at Heart” for SS15, and even dares to stray from its comfort zone to convince us. Amazing attention to detail and textiles went into this presentation that caters to the quintessential MALAIKARAISS girl: a contemporary hybrid of Annie Hall and Klimt’s Portrait of a Lady. The 2014 Start your Fashion Business finalist mixed playful and straight-forward styles, androgyny and art-deco to showcase a collection for the modern women: tough yet sensual. Soft shades of white, mint and nude clash with vibrant orange and red on a semi-transparent canvas, so that each look shows off just enough skin without being tacky. The quirky Berlin-based designer also incorporated three print trends into her SS15 collection: blink-and-you’ll-miss-them stripes, large dots and toucans. All this came together in a youthful and cheeky collection, that hollers “FUN, FUN, FUN!”
Franziska Michael at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Oversized shoulder fits, ankle grazing coats and belly tops for women and men alike make an out-of-this-world statement combined with trainers and sport socks at the Franziska Michael Spring/Summer 2015 show. Mesh and neopren cloth are the fabrics of coice. Long elastic leggings in a shimmering white with aquatic patterns complete most looks. Two jumpers with prints of faces in childish grimmaces and added fake blonde hair trailing down the back complete the collection’s strange touch. Black, pale pink and mint are the main colours seen in glossy leotards or wide trousers covered in perforations in the shape of dots. A pinball machine turns the runway into an arcade hall, making the models with thick-rimmed glasses and hats that could be from the 90s the cool kids from back in the day.
Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2014
Exploring and contrasting shapes, patterns and textures, the Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal collection Fall 2014 Haute Couture show embodied elegant eccentricity. Models wore transparent polka dot decorated face masks as they walked the runway in heavily patterned shirts, asymmetrically cut dresses and sheer polka dot skirts. Unique and striking patterned patchwork squares made up floor length straight dresses and knee length, flat white boots and long, above the elbow white gloves created an air of elegance.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2014
Presenting an amalgamation of embellishments, texture and patterns, the CHANEL Fall 2014 Haute Couture show fused classic CHANEL sharp silhouettes with intricate details, producing an emaculate aesthetic. Sandals with ballet style ribbons were the footwear of choice, providing an easy way to walk in the glitter decorated suits, well - tailored, refined coats and exquisitely embroidered dresses. Stunning jewels adorned elegant sweaters and dresses and exploratory pieces were displayed through intriguing embellishments and innovative shapes.
PHILIPP PLEIN Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Entitled 'My American Dream', the PHILIPP PLEIN Fall/Winter 2014 campaign presents the dynamic creations exhibited in his Fall/Winter 2014 Milan fashion show.
A cowgirl style fused with rock and roll influences formulated the Milan show with outfits heavily embellished with gold studs, stylish all black leather pieces, extravagant fur and bold glitter.
Incorporating footage from the show including images shot live during the event as well as backstage, the campaign captures the vivacious spirit of the collection and translates the thrill of the show onto captivating still images.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an chic mix of monochrome, the Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2015 Menswear collection provided a contemporary and casual compilation. Relaxed silhouettes accompanied by loose material resulted in a nonchalant look whilst long, sleek blazers exhibited refinement. The clothing was athletic yet sophisticated with easy going styling and a simplistic colour palette adding to the laid back ambience.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring models Iselin Steiro and Rogier Bosschaart, the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014 campaign epitomizes minimalism with entirely black and white images shot against a simplistic and subtle background.
Emulating the refined sophistication key to the Jil Sander aesthetic, the campaign, shot by photographer Karim Sadli captures effective lighting and the sharp silhouettes of the garments next to a plain backdrop allowing the clothes to speak for themselves.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Jean-François José
Adhering to a demure colour palette of light gray and beige with specks of orange, navy blue and mustard yellow, the Hermès Spring 2015 Menswear collection was causal and cool, consisting of soft cardigans, casual jackets and slim trousers. Signature, distinct Hermès prints and patterns were decorated onto shorts, trousers and skirts and worn with slip on sandals and sneakers. Brightly coloured neck scarfs added vividness into the collection and croc jackets provided nonchalant luxury.
Zegna Couture by Stefano Pilati at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Applying a modern aesthetic to formal menswear, Stefano Pilati's Spring 2015 collection for Zegna Couture incorporated relaxed lines with sleek tailoring to produce a refreshingly contemporary collection. Loose fitting garments were worn with chic brogues and sneakers and colourful shirts were styled with kerchiefs and structured blazers, resulting in a striking and classy amalgamation.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an artistic amalgamation, the Valentino Spring 2015 Menswear show incorporated vintage style prints on shades of elegant brown, taupe and silvery grey. Interesting print were mismatched on silk fabrics that gilded down the runway and metallic, patterned suits were accessorized with hand held leather bags and slip on leather sandals.Relaxed sweaters and long coats were layered over silk shirts and patchwork butterfly motifs and plant embroidery was emblazoned onto jackets; the result was a vintage influence on a contemporary aesthetic.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A creative amalgamation of geometrical black and white lines was offered at the Emporio Armani Spring 2015 Menswear show. Totalling 91 looks, the impressive collection was suave yet innovative, conventional yet modern. Long black overcoats that emulated night gowns were paired with striped shirts and white leather loafers and buttoned up sweaters were worn with straight black trousers and monochrome flatforms.Carrying a futuristic essence, the collection fused sports luxe with sleek sophistication, thus producing a timeless and original combination.
Canali at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The clashing of styles was a key approach in the Canali Spring 2015 Menswear collection. Quirky bucket hats, preppy shirts and shorts and elegant suits and loafers all combined in a unique mixture. White t - shirts, dark blazers and classic white sneakers were worn with bucket hats whilst smart, thick sweaters were tucked into slim trousers and worn with colour blocked, leather loafers. The result was an eclectic collection for the modern man.
Tod's at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Applying a laiback approach to classic menswear, the Tod's 2015 Menswear show was casual, clean and cool. Luxurious, dark navy blue served as a key colour and was incorporated onto sleek suits worn with elegant, leather loafers. Amongst the sophistication, a more casual aesthetic was offered through blue and white jeans. Suede was a popular material, providing the fabric for soft blazers and jeans. Detaching itself from the traditional and conservative, the collection provided something refreshing and contemporary without loosing the refinement.
Costume National at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Refined and sophisticated in a demure and bright colour palette was showcased at the Costume National runway during men’s fashion week in Milan. The collection consisted of an array of suits ranging from all patent leather pieces to bold orange and purple to pin stripes. Exuding laid back rock and roll, the clothing was effortlessly slick; neckerchiefs and tightly fitted trousers oozed cultivated style while the strikingly bright purples, oranges and blues adhered to a youthful and loud aesthetic.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A casual take on the traditional suit was presented at the Trussardi showcase. Classic blazers were replaced by cool bomber jackets, pinstripe suits were paired with leather flat form sandals and modern and stylish double denim was embraced. Materials and patterns were experimented with; patent black leather was used on loose fitting trousers and bold black, red and white brushstroke prints were emblazoned onto straight trousers. The outcome was contemporary yet cultivated.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adopting tribal prints and patterns, the Missoni Spring 2015 menswear collection presented a cool and casual aesthetic. Colours were clashed and knitted materials were decorated with colourful and intriguing stripes. Bare chested models walked down the runway clothed in patterned gilets, shorts and sandals and striped, matching blazers and trousers were worn with relaxed, soft cream brogues. The collection exhibited a vibrant and lively way to sport casualwear.
Brioni opens Flagship in Milan
Italian luxury menswear couture house Brioni has opened their largest Flagship in Milan located in the city’s luxury shopping area. Conceived by Creative Director Brendan Mullane, the 1,200 square meter flagship spans across three floors and comprises of formalwear, leisurewear, accessories, eyewear, textiles and footwear.
Sophisticated and refined, the store is a completely renovated historical palazzo and contains plenty of natural light with the entrance opening into a large foyer. The first floor houses leisurewear and the second floor hosts an expansive VIP room where visitors can find time to relax. Six full-time tailors will be present in the flagship, offering an exclusive service to clients and guaranteeing an exquisite experience. Walls, ceilings, floors, tables and chairs are upholstered in a luxurious dark blue suit fabric and a select choice of prized materials are in elegant beiges, taupes and browns.
With the flagship opening on June 19th 2014, the inauguration will take place on Saturday 21st and consist of a structural light installation in collaboration with Greek artist Michael Anastassiade entitled ‘Blue Hour’. The installation will be displayed until July 12th.
London Collections: Men Day 1
As London Fashion Week’s quieter, calmer and all together more laid back alternative, London Collections: Men commenced with catwalks from Lou Dalton, Lee Roach and Agi & Sam and presentations from Jonathan Saunders, Nicholas Kirkwood and DKNY MEN.
Centered at the prestigious Hospital Club in Covent Garden, the event hosted established as well as upcoming menswear design talent in an exciting combination of runways, showcases and parties. Luxury mens fashion designer Lou Dalton presented a well-tailored and sleek collection with a contemporary and youthful twist at one of the first catwalks of the day. In a cool and summery colour palette of bright whites, powder pinks, blue and silver, the collection comprised of Dalton’s signature attention to detail on simple yet distinct patterns and shapes.
An expansion on his usual minimalism was showcased at the Lee Roach show. Roach offered a relaxed and modish alternative to the traditional suit by pairing logo printed t – shirts with matching blazers and straight trousers and included mesh vests and military references through khaki and circle and stripe emblems. The simple colours contrasted with the experimental layering to produce a sleek yet effortlessly cool aesthetic.
Scottish born designer Jonathan Saunders presented a chic and bright collection incorporating simplistic patterns and clean designs in a distinctive array of colours. As an edgy yet sleek amalgamation of stripes, colour blocking and layering, the collection presented electrifyingly bright yellows accompanied by deep cool blues and galactic silvers. Smart and edgy metallic suits and light, breathable jackets were the standouts amongst sharp and definitive ensembles.
Wrapping up the catwalks of the day, Agi & Sam fused masculinity with femininity in an exciting blend of shapely silhouettes, loose fitting garments and intriguing patterns printed onto two pieces and jackets. Throwing tradition out of the window, the innovative design duo applied an original style pairing knee length socks with sandals, smart pleated trousers and original prints resulting in a strong yet relaxed outcome.
Day one did not disappoint and launched another year of exhilarating Mens fashion.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Under the artistic direction of Jason Wu, the BOSS Fall/ Winter 2014 campaign captures sophistication and refinement for both women and men.
Establishing a contemporary look for the BOSS brand, the campaign styled by Joe McKenna and shot by Inez and Vinoodh presents BOSS’s traditional tailoring in a modern fashion. The face of the womenswear, model Edie Campbell embodies a strong, powerful femininity in the campaign while actor Scott Eastwood is formal yet modern in BOSS’s timeless and cosmopolitan menswear.
As his first campaign for BOSS, Jason Wu applied a “a fresh, different approach" and expresses how the campaign “not only shows the BOSS clothes, but evokes the BOSS lifestyle."
The dreamlike dimension of PHILIPP PLEIN
PHILIPP PLEIN’s pre fall 2014 collection fuses dreamlike patterns with multicolour photographic collages to create unique designs that are illustrated onto biker jackets, dresses, bags and shoes.
Depicting a dreamy vision, the prints comprise of the jaws of a tiger, a surreal Taj Mahal, images of elephants in the desert and jewelled panthers. Detailed and creative, the kaleidoscopic prints are both intriguing and strikingly stylish, incorporating architecture, nature and far away destinations in a whimsical yet vivid amalgamation.
Prada opens up a new store in Vienna
Created inside a prestigious and historical building, the new Prada store in Vienna hosts women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories and shoe collections.
Black and white-chequered marble floor, green fabric- clad walls and high furniture decorates the 1430 square-metre store that is extended over two floors. The chic new space designed by architect Roberto Baciocchi is both elegant and feminine and provides a leisurely and luxurious shopping experience.
With large, enticing windows on the outside and a sleek, immaculate design on the inside, the exquisite new store imitates Prada’s modern aesthetic and slick style. The store opened on 19th May 2014
Bally Fall/Winter 2014
Casual sophistication is at the core of Bally’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection with classic lines and sharp tailoring being combined with laidback yet edgy styling.
The womenswear is both formal and easy-going comprising of pin striped flared suit trousers paired with casual trainers and tailored overcoats, beanies and thick turtle neck sweaters. Ideal for the workplace, the long body fitting pencil skirts and shirts are perfect for the cosmopolitan woman and the cool, leather biker jackets add a necessary hip aesthetic.
With an impressive range of accessories, the latest Bally collection provides endless ways to add sleek vibrancy to your wardrobe. From croc and snakeskin print bags to a range of ankle boots, low heels, brogues and knee length boots in a variety of colours, the accessories effortlessly compliment the clothing.
Equally classy, the menswear offers a variety of refined clothing ranging from dapper coats, suit trousers and blazers to dynamic multi coloured trainers, thick leather fur lined biker jackets and oversize leather backpacks.
The collection fuses elegance with edginess, making it easy for Bally to stylishly transport us into the Fall/Winter season.
Sisley Store in Mitte
Depicting youth and freedom, the new Sisley concept store opened in Mitte, Berlin on 27th February 2014.
Located in the prestigious Mitte district in the centre of Berlin, the store allows visitors to have a unique and stimulating shopping experience as the store displays “its own distinctive nature and its own unique features”. The store’s layout is inspired by the film The Dreamers by Bernardo Bertolucci and translates this into a dreamlike, sophisticated and youthful décor.
Inside this new concept, visitors will find themselves enter an intriguing atmosphere consisting of peeled walls, black and white chequer patterned floors and cognac chandeliers. Fusing the sleek with the bohemian, the store displays chic body hugging, colour-block dresses, stylish trench coats and modernist jumpsuits as well as artistic maxi skirts, long muslin dresses and silk tops.
Situated at 12 Neue Schönauser Strasse, the exciting new store embodies the brands playful yet chic aesthetic and transforms shopping into an interactive, sensorial experience.
The GUESS Hotel Pool Party @ Coachella
Fun California based music festival Coachella took place from the 11th April to the 13th and hosted an eclectic mix of live performances from artists such as Disclosure, Pharrell, Lana Del Rey, Skrillex and MGMT.
Amongst this exciting musical sphere, all-American fashion brand GUESS presented the GUESS Hotel Pool Party spread over two days and consisting of cocktails by the pool, a GUESS ping pong table and the sounds of DJ’s Lindsay Luv, Jamieson Hill and Dexter Love. Celebrities enjoying the care-free summer atmosphere included Hannah Simone, Whitney Port and actor Ryan Kwanten.
On day two of the party, the grand opening of the annual GUESS Hotel was opened by music from musician Alex Merrell dressed in Marciano and offered delicious food and tasty drinks as well as performances by Izzy Lawrence and Whitney Fierce. Celebrating the early Summer with GUESS at Coachella, the party was enjoyed by Josh Henderson, Coachella headlining band Arcade Fire and Jamie Chung.
Diesel Jogg Jeans Presents the A-Z of Dance
If you thought denim and dance were like oil and water – two incongruous concepts that are never to coalesce – think again, for Diesel puts an end to the notion the notion with one fell swoop: the all-wear Jogg Jeans.
A hybrid of 21st Century design, Diesel's new Jogg Jeans cherrypick the best elements of jeans and sportswear to arrive at material that sits somewhere between denim and sweat. A circular weaving technique affords 360° stretch, while the cunning exploitation of deceiving indigo dye plays the ally to the sweatpants' artful guise. Drawstring waistbands take comfort further still, all the while providing a stylistic alternative to the commonplace button. Side stitching and coin pockets, meanwhile, ensure all artifice is kept incognito. An eclectic menu of styles caters to all manner of tastes, whether skinny or slouched, ankle-skimming or bagging at the knees – bleached, black or bullet-holed. The comprehensive collection also extends to shorts, jackets and jumpsuits – ever exquisite, but made markedly more malleable.
To paint the proficiency of their most dextrous pieces yet, Diesel and i-D have taken the opportunity to teach the A-Z of Dance in the form of an exclusive video directed by Jacob Sutton. The Soul Step team of Rick Owens' notorious SS14 show, Northern Soul star Levanna McLean and Nicole 'The Pole' Williams of Rihanna's Pour It Up video are but a few of the 26 acts to feature in the film, in which an illustrious cast performs the cult dances for which they are renowned - animate and unperturbed in a wardrobe of Jogg Jeans. Thanks to Diesel, there is now no occasion for which denim is a bad fit.
Karl Lagerfeld London boutique opening
Fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld has finally got around to cementing his iconic fashion creations in a new territory. The store, which exhibits a largely black and white minimal aesthetic is a homage to the designer with his famous head motif decorated onto an array of items and apparel has opened in London’s uber cool and classy Regent Street.
With classic Lagerfeld pieces available such as black sunglasses, fingerless gloves and a stiff white collar, the new flagship epitomises Karl’s undeniable influence and power in the fashion industry and innovative approach to store design. The just opened store is his biggest outlet in Europe and will contain interactive photo booths allowing shoppers to take pictures of themselves while trying on clothes, it will also have a digital guest book and iPad mini’s displaying full collections.
It seems that the store not only offers the latest Lagerfeld creations but an opportunity to buy into the designer’s archetypal image with iPhone cases, toy dolls and pillows all with Karl’s famous face planted onto them. Upon opening, Lagerfeld arrived in London and celebrated the flagships’ launch with British fashion model and friend Cara Delevingne. We expect this fuse of mainstream fashion and high end luxury to be an instant hit.
Hogan Spring / Summer 2014
Spring has indeed sprung and with Hogan’s Spring Summer 2014 collection being shot in the picturesque and romantic city of Venice it has sprung particularly attractively this year. The uber casual and effortlessly chic collection comprises of light, fitted jackets, jeans and sneakers for laidback daywear and sexy heeled sandals, black leather and metallic clutches to bring on the night.
All modelled by the stunning Constance Jablonski who describes the clothes as “a selection of easy-chic pieces” in a diary style memoir written to support the campaign, the pieces depict an ideal spring holiday and combine comfort with style. In her memoir Jablonski illustrates her fast paced life full of travel and inspiration and always carries a compilation of “little jackets, skinny pants and my Hogan H222 that stay with me 24 hours a day”.
The menswear collection is modelled by Fifty Shades of Grey actor Jamie Dornan and continues in the theme of cool and easy, relaxing on a boat day attire to sleek, sophisticated yet relaxed pieces for the night. Consisting of slim fitting trousers, light blazers and stylish brogues, the collection provides clothing that is slick, effortlessly cool and embodies the carefree spirit of spring.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Vivienne Westwood invited us into her vivid imagination and world of eclectic inspirations during her FW14 show. Referencing a capacious variety of influences, styles and cultures, the collection mismatched colours and patterns, exhibited bizarre blue face paint and clashed textures. We were given extravagance through fluffy, shapely, large overcoats and exaggerated top hats, it was spectacular! Possibly the most inventive designs came from the sheer, shoulder padded, turtle neck wedding dress and martial arts style wrap jacket paired with loose fitting trousers, boots and Red war face paint. Vivienne gathered her vast sources of influencers and compiled into a outlandish yet amazing collection.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
60s style colour combinations and dress silhouettes transcended into sheer bohemian floral gowns at the Valentino FW14 show showcased at Paris fashion week. Colour combined metallics paired with sparkly strappy heels transformed the glamour into a wearable yet fashionable night look and exquisitely printed fur overcoats and capes represented the opulent yet hip theme of the collection.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
All of the drama and theatrics you could wish for were at Yohji Yamamoto’s fairy-tale esque FW14 show. Bright and flamboyant makeup was accompanied by extremely stylistic hairstyles and duvet like large black overcoats whilst bright and vibrant graphics were painted onto all black pieces. These experimental and unique graphic designs continued with large florals and heavily layered black pieces added a lavish sophistication and weighed down the exaggerated theme of the show. It exposed us to a more bizarre and outlandish winter wardrobe.
KENZO at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Varying patterns and colours clashed at KENZO FW14. A creative approach to layering was seen through corsets worn over tops, wide structured skirts worn over patterned suits and straight short skirts worn over trousers. Classic geometric Kenzo prints were worn alongside inventive padded black suits and a long padded black coat. The collection was wearable whilst adding a certain energy to a wardrobe.
Isabel Marant at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Isabel Marant FW14 show felt comfortable yet stylish and chic. The clothes consisted of different shades of army green, contrasted with the laidback, largely loose fitting material with a strong, militant power. Relaxed knits were paired with structured overcoats to add a sleek sharpness and a hint of dark glitter thrown onto jackets, skirts and tops gave a certain and very much needed perzaz. The show illustrated a relaxed army girl while still adhering to a high fashion look.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A bright pop of colour provided an exciting accompaniment to a fall/winter aesthetic during Dries van Noten’s Paris fashion week show. Clashing geometric patterns highlighted the designer’s innovative approach to using prints and sportswear references alongside bright floral prints provided a diverse winter wardrobe. Transcending into a darker colour palette, the show concluded with luxe metallic striped pieces, luscious black fur and space girl style sparkling silver.
Day 5: Marni, John Richmond, Trussardi, Missoni and Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Marni FW ’14 show presented at array of ostentatious excitement through the use of large fur pieces, layered ruffles and colour blocked, turtle neck dresses. It seemed like anything and everything provided inspiration for the collection as interestingly patterned matching two pieces were displayed alongside exaggerated zip up jackets and oversize trousers. The show contrasted large all fur colourful pieces with clean and structured lines to create a collection that catered to all.
Bringing a new level of sophistication to the classic suit, the John Richmond FW ’14 show epitomized menswear elegance with a powerful rock ‘n’ roll edge. Blazers were detailed with wording and a multitude of prints to play on the traditional suit while a pair of tight fitting bright red leopard print jeans were combined with a lavish black fur bomber jacket to provide a modern edginess. Richmond’s use of kilts, tight leather trousers, exquisite face motifs and sleek silk lined suits fused modern culture with classic refinement.
High class chic was translated onto an array of sleek black leather, shiny metallic silver and casual blue material at the Trussardi FW ’14 show. University wear was referenced through school – badge style motifs and rich, warm sweaters contrasted with seductive leather and the use of metallic. Platform shoes were worn with ankle baring trousers and above the knee skirts were accompanied by oversize sweaters to create a laid back elegance.
The Missoni FW ’14 show saw the warm fall colours of orange, yellow and brown transcend into wintery blues, greens and greys. Finished with a Bohemian edge, the collection comprised of straight, fur – collared winter coats, colour blocking and spotty leather ankle boots. Colour was clashed on structured coats and mini dresses while strong silhouettes and the playful use of texture exemplified urban chic.
Opened by famous supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing an all-black silver studded ensemble, the Philipp Plein FW ’14 show adhered to its ‘American Dream’ theme with an array of matte-black leather, soft fur and rock ‘n’ rock studs. Cowgirl culture was referenced through leather fringing, cowboy hats and high – collared buttoned up cowboy shirts while still remaining modern. The use of bright red tartan on coats and dresses and black sparkly pieces added a high end luxe without losing the rock edge.
Day 3: Emporio Armani, Iceberg and Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Emporio Armani FW ’14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week epitomised the modern, sophisticated and effortlessly chic Flapper Girl. Wide legged black silk trousers decorated with dotted white stripes displayed alternative sleek while luscious velvet and sparkling silver embodied the fun elegance of the collection. Models sported jet- black, boyish haircuts as they showcased stylish silver, black and white suits as well as fitted turtle neck tops and 1920s inspired straight dresses.
With an emphasis on tailored coats, knitwear and uniquely printed white sweatshirts, the Iceberg FW ’14 collection used sportswear as an inspiration and contrasted bright, clear whites with even brighter neon yellows and reds. Fur and leather, buckled neck braces were worn as scarfs and leg hugging trousers were paired with metallic silver, jet black and deep purple ankle boots to create a tenacious yet feminine collection.
Shades of blue, deep red and black were present at the Versace FW ’14 show at Milan Fashion Week. Donatella stayed true to the brands lavish and ostentatious designs as models sported two – toned fitted dresses with silk detailing, rich fur coats and cut out suede knee high boots. Leather fringing and fur were combined and fitted coats were embellished with buttons, this was extravagance at its best. Unique patterning covered fur coats and strappy silk dresses embodied feminine luxe.
Philipp Plein Underwear
Shortly after Philipp Plein's cowboys pranced down the runway at the Fall/Winter 2014 show in Milan, the Swiss Maison is delight to present it‘s men‘s underwear debut. Embodying the essence of beauty, innovation, fun and sensuality, the collection consists of sporty boxers, briefs and shorts made of comfortable jersey. And of course, the new campaign features images by Steven Klein. In a luxury 'Fight Club', he transforms his protagonists into wild wrestling bad boys, when the animal instinct and lust for life emerges. Co-existing to the images, a video completes the thought of body-to-body struggle: it's night, when two shirtless boys walk into a deli and escape back into a limousine. Superimposed by haunting fighting sequences, the video encapsulates the campaign's spirit: Battle with all your forces!
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
Not far away from the Jean Paul Gaultier headquarters, at 'Le Comédia' -an old Parisian theater- the French couturier's show took part on wednesday night. The theatrical spectacle was inspired by cabaret and French Revue from the twenties and thirties. And a glamorous Burlesque-themed performance started, when it‘s showgirls flounced down the runway wearing feathered and butterfly-shaped headpieces.
Black satin costumes were followed by multi-coloured tight wasp waists, corsets and net-laced dresses made of semi-transparent light fabrics. As a big surprise Dita Von Teese closed the show.
Paul Smith at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Sir Paul Smith had music on his mind while designing the fall/winter 2014 collection for men. Two currents of recent music history seemed to take the upper hand: in one corner was new wave and in the other psychedelica. The first manifested itself with big coats, knitted jumpers and slim pants while the second explained the bohemian prints, nonchalant fits and smock tops. To cover up next winter, Smith recommends an short poncho worn over leather jackets and big printed scarfs.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In just a few seasons, the house of Kenzo has renewed it's popularity with recognizable prints, colors and a few collaborations. This season Humberto Leon and Carol Lim went to a more homely place as the collection started with earthy tones as grey and brown. A lot of focus was put on tailoring and knitwear, the latter being used for big collars on coats, slim pants and chunky sweaters. Colors like pink, lime and purple were later reinforced to brighten up the collection. Funny detail was the shaggy fur, that was actually kangaroo.
Hien Le and Baby-G at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Traditionally, Hien Le’s show kicks off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This time around the designer partnered up with Baby-G, re-interpreting the classical model of the watch brand - with the wristbands almost cut from the same cloth as Le’ s designs and therefore being the perfect addition to the collection’s looks. The collection in itself was rather bold in shades of Bordeaux and petrol, considering Hien Le’s usual affinity to intriguing designs in muted colors and patterns. That is not to say that Le strayed from the usual grays and nudes.
For fall/winter 2014/15, wearable pieces for both sexes were made from wool, cashmere, leather and silk. Hien Le’s choice of music was maybe just as bold, with Kanye West blasting from the speakers the second the lights went off. Once again, Le put forward game-changing looks and ideas.
Kris van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
As young as the models at Kris van Assche's Fall/Winter 2014 collection looked, they surely looked ready to take on the world. Big coats made from thick wool or nylon were worn on classics like white shirts and slim pants. Extra layers consisted of round sweaters and sleeveless vests that were sometimes worn over suits to give the idea of a bullet proof vest. Aside from the protective attitude, there was also a time and a place for some fun with pop appliqués in multiple colors and short schoolboy blazers.
Boris Bidjan Saberi at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The poetic collection Boris Bidjan Saberi showed for this fall and winter came from his vision on the Ottoman Empire and Topkapi architecture. At the same time it was the designer's most essential collection to date, taking his aesthetic and perfecting it with refined tailoring. The balanced collection sported some more athletic details like rucksacks and sneakers as well as subtle prints and long wraps, nonchalantly draped over sharp leather jackets.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Kim Jones has always been talking about the art of travel for his collections at Louis Vuitton. That is no surprise with a brand that started in luggage but this season he pushed the envelope in that domain. After referencing most continents, Jones this time looked even further. For the Fall/Winter collection the designer looked at NASA maps of the world from space and took aerial photographs of Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Lines in Peru as an inspiration. He then went to those areas to find the finest local materials. This made for a collection that had an futuristic edge but was earthed in traditional values. Best were looks when there was a tension between formal and casual, for exemple in jumpsuit looks with matching coats or suits worn with t-shirts. Jones also added a new version of the Damier-pattern to the house's codes, called the Damier Cobalt, with a dark blue as a sign of new understated luxury.
Carven at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
With dark workwear, elegant but manly shapes and high fur hats, Guillaume Henry at Carven seemed to reference the Beat Generation of New York in the sixties. Tailored pants fell just on the ankle to reveal clunky shoes and big double breasted coats gave the shoulders a slight roundness. Heavy knitwear was tucked in pants and most shirts came without collars. Beginning with blacks and dark blues, the collection later adapted tones like nude, burgundy and a graffiti print.
22/4_hommes at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
22/4 presented their fall/winter 2014 menswear line in Yoyo in Palais the Tokyo, which now is a popular nightclub but once functioned as the famous cinémathèque. The collection was an exercise in urban sleekness and rigorous brutality. Oversized coats and baggy suits were cinched by colorful elastic bands or wide cummerbund-style belts. Other sporty outings were jogging pants and cropped sweaters, worn over crisp white shirts. The brutality set in with hats, jackets and backs of vests in natural fur. The bomber-jacket, the item pur sang to survive the urban jungle, made several appearances, first draped nonchalantly over a suit but later the recognizable orange lining saw itself transformed in bags and accessories. The balance in those extremes made for an collection both aggressive and delicate.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Philipp Plein's cowboy and Wild Western-themed collection, was born out of his childhood memories, when he dreamt of empty saloons, sheriffs on horses and hunted banditos. His looks were sometimes topless and accessorized with saddles, bolo ties, badges, reptile belts and fringes. Crystal studded blazers, biker jackets and sheriff dusters were the highlights of the show, which ended by a performance of legendary rapper Angel Haze.
Calvin Klein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
After Calvin Klein has presented the upcoming Fall/Winter 2014 collection during Milan Fashion Week, there are three expressions, that bear in mind: ETERNITY,OBSESSION and ESCAPE. Named after CK fragrances, these slogans, graced numerous of oversized sweaters and underlined how wide-ranging the brand is. The military-inspired collection features baggy metallic pants, leather bombers, backpacks and jean jackets in leather, dominated by earthy warm colours.
J.W.Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
And again, J.W.Anderson blured the lines of gender in his straightforward Fall/Winter 2014 performance at London Collections: Men. Opening the show with a line of tabards, his mannequin's seemed like canvases for his artistic expression stomping down the runway in high-heeled platform boots. Multicolored knitwear, over wide, cuffed trousers and turtlenecks dominated the collection.
SEEK at Kühlhaus Berlin
Under the theme 'We look towards pop culture for inspiration; we're influenced by sub-cultures, books, youth movements, films and art', the genuine fashion trade show SEEK will warmly welcome the Fall/Winter 2014/2015 season during next Berlin Fashion Week. Since the trade show was founded in 2009, within this exhibition, SEEK will celebrate it's 5th anniversary. Creative Director Oliver Saunders and Fashion Director Maren Wiebus, therefore, chose the unique location Kühlhaus to present 90 selected international brands including Barbour, Billionaire Boys Club, BBC Black, Gourmet, Duffer Japan, Cheap Monday, Our Legacy, Property Of, Puma Collaborations, V Ave Shoe Repair and so on, to an ever-growing audience. As all of them stand for something close to SEEK creators' hearts and find it's inspiration in their surroundings, influenced strongly by music and art, the issuing labels represent authenticity, quality, design and function.
SEEK is on from the 14th till 16th of January 2014 between 10am and 7pm at Kühlhaus Berlin, Germany.
GUCCI's 'Cruise 2014'
Inspired by the vibrant South American temperament of Rio de Janiero, Creative Director Frida Giannini designed the exclusive 'Cruise 2014‘ womens' collection, an ex- clusive insight of must-have travel essentials for the modern GUCCI woman. The collection expresses opulent nonchalance, euphoriy, yet a strong glamourous appearance picking up 70ies styles of the Italian traditional house of GUCCI. Feminine overalls in wide silhouettes and slightly oversized proportions are combined with waist belts, among elegant evening gowns and the new kimono-wrap dress made of exclusive silks. Next to glamourous highlights some sporty influences conquer the GUCCI cosmos within bomber jackets, basketball-inspired T-Shirts and the FRIDA Shirt, the first time Giannini's name appears on one of the brand's designs.
The collection is especially characterized by using various high-quality materials, such as silk, featherweight crêpe de Chine, suedes and cashmere. Some pieces are made of shimmering hand-embroidered iridescent gold and silver sequins, more casual garments are adorned with Macro-Paisley-prints. Photographed against an orange, purple and pink sunset image, the whole colour palette of the collection ranges from exotic colours through to rusty and copper nuances, as well as metallic, silver and bronze shades. As expected, the Cruise 2014 is not missing out on three suitable handbag lines: The 'GUCCI 58‘, which customizes the charming looks of the season's collection. The 'Harness' combines the design of the GUCCI Horsebit with traditional craftsmanship, whilst the brand's outstanding characteristic bamboo detail gives an elegant allure to the feminine 'Hip Bamboo'. Metallic high-heel sandals and the Espadrilla wedges complete the looks of the sporty- glamorous women's 'Cruise 2014' collection.
Take a look at the whole collection on
The Madeleen- Bugaboo by Kaviar Gauche
The iconic Dutch pushchair brand Buga- boo teams up with avant-garde designer duo Kaviar Gauche in an ultimative collaboration of 'The Madeleen', a stylish and suitable must-have bag for a modern mother. As the brand Bugaboo stands for mobility and innovative design, this accessories sets new standards, especially for the mother's everyday use. The inspiration for this magnificent, yet handy bag came within a workshop of 'It-mums' of the German media landscape, who represented the potential customer and gave direct input of how an essential bag for a modern woman should be and look like. Kaviar Gauche incorporated these informations into the design process and created a bag made of luxurious black soft nappa leather combined with suede. The eye-catcher bag combines the classic tote form with the duffel bag look, has a removable bag-in-bag with various inside pockets and a zip, which separates the base from the rest of the bag.
'The Madeleen' will be available online from November 2013 as a limited edition of 300 bags.
REPLAY's Laserblast Club Capsule Collection
On Wednesday, 23rd of October 2013 Italian denim and casual wear brand REPLAY celebrated the launch of it's Laserblast Club capsule collection at the ‘Terrassensaal' in Munich in collaboration with VICE. Stunning British singer Charli XCX -who is the protagonist and new face of this collection and just released her first album ‘True Romance' - highlighted this very special event with a vivid live performance, accompanied by flashy computer graphics and laser beamer video projections.
The new REPLAY AW2013-14 line combines club culture with denim, but also points out technological progresses, en- viromental responsibility and eco-oriented thinking. Through using the Laserblast technology to get the typical denim aethetics, REPLAY doesn't need to use big amounts of water, energy and stones or sand to wash the jeans, as the wash is literally put onto the jeans by a laser. Watch the video teaser of Charli XCX for the REPLAY Laserblast Club Capsule Collection on
Dr. Martens x Gavin Watson
Certainly one of the strongest claims to counterculture, Dr. Martens boots with their trademark yellow stitching, grooved sole and heel-loop have defined a specific look. Countless rebellious streams, subcultures and tribes have adopted the style, which accompanies the journey towards-self expression. Aside from the boot itself, the brand has incorporated accessories and apparel into its collection. Enter renowned British photographer Gavin Watson.
He has been deeply involved with British subculture since adolescence and has documented the scene in his intimate photographs. Born in Northwest London in 1965, Watson started taking pictures at an early age. By the time he was 14 he had become a skinhead and immersed himself into this world of Dr. Martens, 2 Tone and Madness. Through all of it, he documented his buddies‘ shenanigans as well as those of his ‘muse‘ - his brother Neville - through the lens of his camera. Publications such as ‘Skins‘, ‘Skins and Punks‘ and ‘Raving ‘89‘ showcased his work to the world and have prone luminaries from Terry Richardson to Shane Meadows to hail him as a genius and even credit much of the look of the 2006 drama ‘This is England‘ to Watson‘s work.
For the Fall/Winter 2013 season Watson will present a capsule collection of limited edition printed T-shirts, which feature images from his vast archive. The images are captioned as ‘Nev flying the flag outside the Watson house in Hawthorne, High Wycombe‘, ‘Dean Spencer outside Camera Press, Coram St, Russell Square, London, 1981‘, ‘Nev’s sky blue Sta Press and Docs, Carnaby St. London‘ and ‘The Wycombe Marsh mob, Wycombe Marsh, 1981.‘ The shirts will be available in two different fits, for men and women respectively and will be available from Dr. Martens own retail stores and online from October.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
At Paris Fashion Week SS14 CHANEL showcased a vivid, optimistic and cheerful collection that linked art and fashion and manifested the creator‘s attitude towards a symbiosis between both. Karl Lagerfeld showed elaborate looks in the brand‘s cult fabric tweed embroidered with muslins, organza and laces, often frayed and torned. Spring/Summer 2014 at CHANEL will be dominated by a colour palette of blacks and whites next to pink, blue and yellow shades. Elements of the traditional costume got assembled in a new design and combine flowing, asymmetric and deep décolleté‘s with wide or slim silhouettes. Handbags, rings, bracelets and a new interpretation of the legendary pearl necklace completed this remarkable look.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The House of Dior for Spring/Summer 2014 conquered the runway with a strong, feminine and very exoctic appearance. This collection was drawing a line of successful new interpretations and a variety of ideas. Raf Simons‘s creations were built on exclusive fabrics, such as bright silks and jacquards and stunning floral prints related to the impressive runway location, which felt like a surrealistic tropical rainforest setting.
The iconic traditional Dior Bar Jacket appeared next to translucent pleat skirts in neon coulors combined with monochromic metallic garments and very powerful multi-coloured dresses. Wrapped tops emphasized the beauty of a woman‘s waistline, relating to the sensual spirit Dior is loved for.
Viktor&Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The background for the Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2014 collection was an institutional wall (maybe from a boarding school?) with the designers names clad on it in graffiti. That rebellious attitude persisted in the collection were good girls gone pretty bad. The schoolboy-uniforms showed today were deconstructed and heavily studded. Like a gothic cheerleader, the Viktor&Rolf girl pierced her collars or painted her shirt. New was the bermuda-shape, that in it‘s largeness, moved like a stiff skirt. Optional were the the little kilts in front and in the back.
Dolce&Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Designer-duo Dolce&Gabbana for Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 showcased garments, that got inspired by Roman and Greek mythology and the perfection of ancient temples and theatres. The collection thematically focuses on beauty, magic and enchantment and exposes pomposity and glamour in a strong manner. The main motives of this show were golden antique coins adorning dresses, headbands, jewelry and belts. Macramé and chiffon textiles in a colour palette of black, red, cream, dark green and esspecially gold dominated this selection of stunning pieces.
Remarkable prints of almond tree flowers, lithography of Sicilian temples and traditional decorations of ceramics highlighted exclusive fabrics such as lacquered silks, organza laces and gold-printed leather. Along with exclusive, luxury pieces, such as highwaist pencil skirt, fur vests, golden earrings and the newest Dolce & Gabbana bags entitled Eva and Sara, the fashion collection, was accompanied by the original music taken from various movies of Federico Fellini.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Philipp Plein‘s show at Milan Fashion Week has been a spectaculous highlight opening with an exclusive live performance of "Work“ by Australian rapper Iggy Azalea that combined the two worlds of Hip Hop and fashion. With a cast of only black models the german designer wanted to commit a statement towards breaking barriers and rules. Stunning beauties arised the runways in studded baseball jackets made of Nappa leather, striped socks and mini-pleated skirts all dominated by black, white, pink and blue colours and flashy metallic shades. Lacy night gowns made of translucent chiffons created a feminine-chic styling combined with eye-catching highlights of Swarovski crystals.
KTZ at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Marjan Pejoski & Koji Maruyama’s Spring/ Summer 2014 was a highlight on third day of London Fashion Week. Dominated by black and white moroccan tile textures, the collection had unique pieces made of high- tech fabrics and varnished leather accessoried by oversized, opulent jewellery and metallic embossing. Hitting the zeitgeist with stunning creations such as hijab-looking headpieces, hamsa hands and enveloping garments, the designer duo transformed the runway into a futuristic sci-fi trip to the oriental dessert.
Ralph Lauren at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014
Ralph Lauren put forward a classical and monochrome collection on last day of NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Starting with chic business outfits, dominated mostly by blacks and whites and a variety of floral and square patterns. Skirts, three piece suits, as well as evening gowns glazed on the runway. The flow of this clear line during the second phase got pursued by unexpected pieces of vivid, acid- shrill colour ranges. Sharply-cut dresses were put together with matching accessories such as handbags, hats and sunglasses.
Diane von Fürstenberg, Y-3, DKNY at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Fourth day of NYFW brought up the soft elegance of femininity as well as the awareness of todays’ “digital noise”. Opening the Y-3 show with flashy lights and various musicians playing on drums and containers, Yohji Yamamoto was teamed up with art director Peter Saville, who stands out for his unique graphics. The combination of blackness and hyper colours generated a postmodern streetwear chic. Bright coloured gradients and watercolour blurring of a multitude of neons, sporty hoodies with slogans, pigtails connected to feathers formed as both a critique and celebration of the contemporary internet culture.
Y-3 Spring/ Summer 2014
Diane von Fürstenberg’s Spring/ Summer 2014 reminded of a breezy summer safari with zebra striped dresses, tunics and maxi dresses made of silk.
Diane von Fürstenberg Spring/ Summer 2014
Right on time to DKNY’s 25th anniversary, Dona Karen sent out her fresh collection with overalls, baseball caps, bodysuits, blazers, sneakers, neoprene dresses and anoraks floating over the runway. Single pieces of baggy pants bringing back the 90’s and other pieces dedicating to a strong urban energy. The show got closed by Rita Ora -current campaign girl of DKNY- dancing to a song of the Beastie Boys.
DKNY Spring/ Summer 2014
Diesel Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Where would you look to find the fashion’s face of today? When many would turn to the catwalks, Diesel – with its hopeful spirit ready to ‘Reboot’ – has herded an army of outsiders from the fertile soil of the brand’s Tumblr page. A practising follower of social media, newly-appointed Artistic Director, Nicola Formichetti, was the main protagonist to what is a refreshing chapter in the Diesel story – a change of narrative and a fresh plot to match. Formichetti’s vision is one that unearths and champions the most relevant talent of our time – something he has always been keen to depict through his imagery – and the Fall/Winter 13 campaign is no different.
The subjects make for an eclectic cast, comprised of Japan’s current obsession (actress Kiko Mizuhara), rosy-haired Bronx graffiti artist (Michelle Calderon) and female Olympian-turned-male model (Casey Legler). Throw in an Italian electro-house DJ (Bob Rifo) and an alienesque Dylan Fosket, and the troupe grows curiouser and curiouser. The styling of each shot was entrusted to the individual, with the vital Diesel staples to hand – a wardrobe of denim and leather pieces, customised by Formichetti himself. Composed in classic-portrait style, the shots frame the atypical models with brilliant nobility, and with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinnodh Matadin on board as photographers, they strike a formula to render snapshots as artefacts of modern times.
Diesel Opens Frankfurt Flagship Store
Raising the curtain after a three-year absence from the city, Diesel unveiled its new and long-awaited flagship store in Frankfurt’s main metropolis on August 1st. Split over two levels, the 383m² store will present pieces from both menswear and womenswear main line collections and Diesel Denim, alongside a discerning selection of shoes, bags and accessories. Four months of hard labour transformed the listed building into an inspiring retail space, built on the artful marriage of vintage and contemporary design accents, from cold, hard steel fixtures to wood block floors.
It’s most exciting element, however, is its devoted private areas to the Diesel Black Gold ready-to-wear collections - previously exclusive to a select handful of German stores, the Frankfurt store is now home to its most daring and directional line. And the new destination still has surprises in store, as September 5th will mark its large-scale opening event, and will be attended by founder of the label, Renzo Rosso, for what promises to be a truly spectacular launch.
Mykita Opens Store in New York
Debuting their directional eyeware in the USA for the first time is Berlin-based brand, MYKITA. Adding to its list of worldwide locations that includes Paris, Zurich, Vienna and Tokyo, the New York store now marks the eigth retail space opened by the brand. Set in the heart of SoHo, the new MYKITA store overhauls a space in Crosby Street's defunct art deco factory building, retaining its original character with its industrial finish.
Almost an art installation in itself, the merchandising of the boutique is unique to the eye of MYKITA, drawing upon the concept of mass-production and ready consumption to construct an ambiance that is both inordinately stocked and astonishingly minimal. The store will offer pieces from their main line alongside a covetable capsule collection exclusive to 109 Crosby Street.
Nieuw Jurk Spring/Summer 2014
Ever reliable to stir controversy, Dutch label Nieuw Jurk shouted from the soapbox of their Amsterdam Fashion Week show with a collection founded on debauchery and scandal. $€XXX speaks mirthifully of the impact of the porn industry and its amplification with the uncontainable presence of the internet.
Chunky rubber boots and PVC bodysuits cling tight to skin, buckled and zipped in fetishwear fashion. Motifs were both lucid and lurid, as X-rated imagery jibed with comic rave-print wit. Sex-shop neons emblazoned photographic prints with their depressingly optimistic lambent glow, tiling catsuits and men's co-ords in wearably clubby pastiche; outsized patent tees take on inflatable doll appliqué with surprisingly permissive flare, while the smile of acid-house undergoes crass adulteration.
Accessories were a little more conceptual, though their statement was no less explicit; faux fur patches served playfully as knee and breast patches, while harness bras and candy string bikinis drolly stands up for any witticism left unsaid.
Royal Hem Fall/Winter 2013
Cyclewear just got stylish with Royal Hem's Fall/Winter 13 collection, a tribute to London's cult cycle ride and mirthfully named 'Tweed Run', for which contestants take to the pedals in a dress code of traditional British biking attire.
Royal Hem unpick the stitches that form the patchwork of British style; a fusion of sartorial British classicism, French mystique and knife-sharp Italian tailoring, its foreign accents are what steer the aesthetic from costume, to a kind of charisma that is more difficult to define.
Casual stands up to a hit of formality, with Shetland wools and Aran knits layering bow-tied shirts and waistcoats. Plus fours are revived with that eccentric taste for color-clashing that could only get past a British palate, as flecked tweeds and dogtooth checks bicker politely amidst a canvas of ¾ length pants and deconstructed blazers, lined with vintage Penny Farthing prints. Slimline silhouettes streamline with single breasted jackets, while Chesterfield coats are made boxy by shawl collars and patch pockets. Styled with a contemporary hand, however, fedoras and rolled ankle cuffs speak with an audacious London twang.
Stone Island Flagship Store Openings
Munich's Maximillian Strasse is soon to make room for a new resident at number 27, as Stone Island are set to open their second German Flagship store in the legendary shopping district this September.
The 100m² store follows the launch of its Sylt store in March 2012, and will stock both the Stone Island and Stone Island Junior collections, as well as the capsule Stone Island Shadow Project.
July 6th also saw the unveiling of another Stone Island Flagship store, this time in Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany. Images from the Stone Island Archivio '982'-'012' 30th anniversary book were projected onto the backdrop of a 10 meter-high floating installation, constructed in honor of the event.
In keeping with their other recent openings, oiled oak and stone lay a natural finish to the interiors, contrasted by the contemporary accent of luminous fibreglass and aluminium fixtures, holding collections in sunken cages made to a bespoke specification.
PERRET SCHAAD Spring/Summer 2014
Off the beaten Fashion Week track, duo PERRET SCHAAD called to the Neue Nationalgalerie, one of the later works of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The upper floor and exhibition space, a 2500 m² glass hall, inspired the concept for the spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD show. While the everyday museum operations commenced, guests cued up around the building and viewed the show through the glass windows. The duo makes use of both noble and tactile materials. What really makes their designs are the precise cuts and the inventive draping which result in sharp and sensual silhouettes. Lines and patterns evoke structure and fluidity, while forms and volume draw the classic and the new. Juxtaposing feminist and romantic, disciplined and free notes express the label's aesthetic. For spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD relied on fine silks, fresh linens, and soft cottons, all natural and rich materials. Their color palette ranges from light to gunmetal gray, from sky blue to deep ink, interlaced with pops such as fuchsia. Through the process of draping and pattern cutting they create fluid and sculptural forms that interact with each other in contrast and harmony. The collection reflects the flexibility and multitude of the urban environment while being committed to an accentuated simplicity.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Sontag Spring/Summer 2014
Inside and out - the binary behind Michael Sontag's spring/summer 2014 collection. Traditional linings such as horsehair took center stage during his presentation at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Intertwined with silks, light cotton, a polyamide-mix, and denim, the materials shaped his layered looks. The collection was elaborate and conceptualized, yet wearable. Sontag layered shorts of full length pants and topped them off with more layers on top, never loosing the airy lightness of his idea. From muted creme, black and gray to canary yellow and lagoon blue, the color palette corresponded to the trends for spring/summer 2014, as seen during Berlin Fashion Week thus far. Surprising sparkle in the designs came out as they moved along the runway: Sontag added Swarovski crystals to some pleats.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Marcel Ostertag Spring/Summer 2014
The most eclectic designer showing during MBFWB is certainly Marcel Ostertag. Always one to take things a little further, the designer himself took to the runway to open his show in a long blush gown jacket. What a way to celebrate his 15th collection thus far. His 'Fragile Explosion' really went for it with vivid colors such as turquoise, green and shimmery gold as well as flower prints, sequins and combos of cotton and jersey or jersey and leather. The almost excessive use of sheer materials brought out the edgy, naughty side of the collection and balanced the more romantic floral and blush pieces. For his anniversary, Ostertag managed to put forward a collection which is cohesive and individual, having a little something of everything.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Fendi Avenue Montaigne Store Opening
Fendi celebrated its move from 22 Avenue Montaigne to number 51 with the unveiling of The Glory of Water exhibition, exclusive in-store cocktail reception and a dinner hosted at the iconic Petit Palais. Karl Lagerfeld guested alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi, Sharon Stone and Chiara Mastroianni.
The new 600m² bouqitue – a celebration of Italian beauty – was designed with rich femininity. Sumptuous textures coat curves in velvet, leather and sleek stone. Fendi wears its Roman roots on its sleeves, studding walls with travertine plates.
Boasting an exclusive fur room, the new store will provide customers with the oppurtunity to create made-to-order pieces. A spectacular installation will narrate the craftsmanship behind the construction of Fendi's fur lines, with the infamous Baguette bag hanging from a display wall pierced by 30, 000 bronze needles. Bags too can be bespoke, with items from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag available to customise to a specification of leathers, colors and finishes.
Chanel Fall Couture 2013
A mixed bag for Chanel this couture season; true-to-tradition bouclé had us believing we were following a path back to the golden age of the brand. That was until hemlines were snatched back and suede cuissardes gave new meaning to longline. Metallics threaded through the weave of the wool itself, set off by the layering of sequined pastel separates.
Mandarin collars and funnel-necks went a little bit '60s, a little bit space-race, in exaggerated volumes, while rolled-over edges gave an inflated cartoonish finish. Wide belts were embellished with the occasional line of silver – reminiscent of pilgrim styles, they found themselves doubled, even tripled in size. Slung to the hips they seemed careless, but tight go-go shifts in silk said otherwise.
Lagerfeld's experimentation with texture truly came to fruition with the tactile geometrics he mosaiced. Soft sheer underlays peeked through the delicate silver armour of fabrics that were seemingly adorned by the fine art of paper-rolling. Origami cloth squares opened with a cross to give the impression of a gentler kind of studwork, picking out the accenting features of the Chanel silhouette: just the hint of a swan-like neck and a quick flash of feminine wrists.
Augustin Teboul Spring/Summer 2014
Like dark princesses, Augustin Teboul's models drew the attention during the spring/summer 2014 show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Each in their own space, divided by white screens, they exuded detachment from the outside world and a kinship with the spiritual sphere. Once again Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul used their favorite materials - leather, knits, silk and mousselin - which they combined with fringed and patent leather details for spring/summer 2014. While they stayed true to their all black aesthetic, they interpreted it for the lighter and warmer season with styles such as shorts, dresses and crocheted parts. Inspiration came from Christendom and its stark contrast of humility and opulence. Volume once again played a big role in the collection, as did intricate embellishments, reminiscent of ecclesiastical ornaments. Augustin Teboul rounded off their looks with their notorious headpieces, creating the ultimate extravaganza in black.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2014
The label IVANMAN has been around since 2010. The menswear collection is characterized by clear lines, minimalist silhouettes and graphic geometrical details: a testament to the label’s balancing act between classic and avant-garde designs. For spring/summer 2014, the deliberate reflection of the present as a time of change served as inspiration. For designer Ivan Mandzukic, fashion is a social phenomenon, which he is trying to break down into its pieces, analyze these and create new clothes with them. The color scheme for spring/summer 2014 ranges from softer white, camel and rose to grungy black. This contrast between soft and feminine and harsh, masculine attributes is evident throughout the entire designs. Stand out elements of the unusual collection were certainly the body belts, baring the models’ backs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013
Until now, Raf Simons' reworking of Dior was seen to be remarkably orthodox. Only his third couture show for the fashion house, designs were propelled by a kind of creative licence that was perceptibly braver.
Though heritage houndstooth still made the cut, this time it was magnified, mantled and modernised. A patent sheen picked out the tiered layers of the reinterpreted bar suit – a brazen symbol if ever there were for Simons' eventual metamorphosis of the brand. Fabrics swathed, yet the look remained clean, fitted to the form for a reworked feminimnity that was contemporary, all the while classic.
More surprising still was the arrival of spiked shibori, which sported strapless dresses with spage-age skeleton. Hair and makeup too afforded a sense of the intergalactic, slicked to skull to show silvered lips. Diagonal cuts sliced through the flounce of Dior's past like a scalpel, pastel metallics and sheer holograph prints abducting its legacy and transporting it not just to the present, but resonating the brand firmly in the future.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2014
Veronique Nichanian's collections for Hermès are always about evolution rather than revolution. Her menswear in understated, luxurious and handsome. Where many designers try to shock the wearer with high impact collections and shows, Nichanian seduces them by awakening their desires with luscious clothing. For spring/summer 2014 the collection had a tension between the formal and casual which was perfectly mastered in a look that featured a sharp leather jacket with a t-shirt and a printed scarf. Not surprisingly, the leather pieces were true objects of desire. Trousers, jackets or t-shirts, Nichanian can always create them in a manner so that they are not kinky whatsoever, but an intimate luxury to add to your daily life.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2014
The centre of the Dior Homme stage was a labyrinth of mirrors which the models entered after their walk on the catwalk. This divided the collection up in all sorts of fragments and worked as a collage of shoes, clothes, bags and faces. This faceted attitude was also visible on the clothing. Graphic appliqués were taped on the jackets, coats and pants like a 21th century stained-glass window. The inspiration for this came from a trip the designer, Kris van Assche, took to Miami, where Art Deco is omnipresent. The effects that produce a mirror was also used in the accessories, like in a bag that seemed elongated. All in all, the collection brought a certain strictness that can constitute to a full wardrobe, but which never becomes too formal.
Valentino Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the head designers of Valentino, are known for their experimental approach to everyday classics. Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection expressed that approach in a military way mixed with clean lines and new silhouettes. Starting of with full looks in raw denim, the collection later picked up white T-shirts and chinos. Recent hallmarks like heat-bonded leather and camo-print also reappeared. This all with the extreme couture-like skill that the designers are known for. The duo also introduced a new collaboration with Havaianas, combining luxury and practicality in crocodile thongs.
Dries van Noten Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The backdrop of the Dries van Noten show on thursday was a massive curtain of gold foil that shimmered like a pool on a sunny day. In the middle of the hall was a gold drum kit that soon was played by a young woman, providing the models with a hypnotic rhythm. The collection that followed was quintessential Dries: floral prints, see-through fabrics and above all the nonchalance of a very cool guy. The collection was infused with antique military clothing and elements, like a heavy gold embroidery and gold piping and buttons. When the Belgian took his bow, the drummer didn't stop playing and the models, who were lined up against the gold foil, didn't move a feet. This gave a great opportunity to see the clothing up close, and revealed details that only closer inspections make visible.
Calvin Klein Collection Spring/Summer 2014
Clean and clutter-free: Calvin Klein Collection. In a plethora of blues, sportswear governed the show – a pertinent match for neoprene textures. Simply unadorned, cartooned silhouettes pop through the storyboard with rounded form, cut up by blockish line. Chunky sandals were similarly caricatured, with inch-thick soles in a powder-blue pigment saved for the dusty pages of a comic book.
Leather was likewise animated; in giant crocodile skins, exaggeration was afoot. And then there were the graphics: deafeningly serene were the seascapes and skies that splashed across sweaters in panoramic splendour. An audacious affair for Calvin Klein Collection, delivering a collection that was plump with personality and performed with artful precision.
Fendi Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Stepping onto scorching sands this Spring/Summer was the heated pace of Fendi. A duned setting helped to lay the tone, though the arid designs spoke for themselves.
Sunset yellow drove full-throttle, terracotta as deep as desert sand belted tightly in the passenger seat. In the shades afforded by the powdered dyes of the East, vibrancy permiated in blocks – though speckled paint stains told of their source.
Fabrics befitted the sweltering heat, in airy yet endurable weights. Jackets, meanwhile, puckered and glossed like roasted leather. Tailoring remained subdued; in sandy camel hues, slim-fit fought the oversized elements, with the aforementioned ultimately winning. Co-ordinated pieces jarred ever so slightly, as scratchy straw checks weren't quite in tune. Piled together, the look is undoubtedly eclectic. Standalone, however, each piece simply blazes in the summer sun.
Golden Dinosaurs at Louis Vuitton
Keep a look out for some new additions to Louis Vuitton's 5th Avenue Maison store – the Pre-Fall/Winter 13 collection now shares its window with some rather special paleontological finds...
Gold dinosaurs mingle with mannequins in a wholly inventive merchandising of clothing and accessory lines. A play on the exhibition at Paris's Les Jardins des Plantes Natural History Museum, Velociraptors and Tyrannasaurus Rex were given luxury makeovers. With skeletons sprayed gold, Vuitton bags hang from hands, teeth and tails, as exhibition plaques provide satirical annotation to displays.
Versace Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A celebration of athleticism – that's what Versace gave us with their latest presentation. Bodies suitibly buffed, muscles bust hulk-like from cropped shorts and cuffs rolled just an inch too early. Toned frames were a tight fit for uncompromising leather numbers, though such was the intended effect. Appliquéd in sports tape – skin no exception – tank-style collared shirts adopted light, sporty weights in racer hues, from fluro-blues to day-glow orange.
Suit pants mirror sweats, with ribbed cuffs to boot. It is the gladiator sandals, however, that hold the torch for olympian apparel, reforming the look with modernistic flare.
Happy Birthday Hugo
Counting twenty years of avant-garde design this summer is the German diffusion line, HUGO. Born in 1993 to the Hugo Boss group, HUGO has come into its own as a pioneer of trends, looked to for trailblazing design in finely focussed cuts.
To mark the occasion, HUGO is hosting a summer-long celebration at the Saatchi Gallery in London, in the form of its exhibition, Red Never Follows. From July 21st to September 1st, twenty inspiring creators and inventors will present their artworks under the exhibition. From interactive multimedia installations to unflinching street art, this diverse showcase of creativity will mark two decades of innovation by HUGO.
Also honoring the anniversary is the launch of an exclusive retrospective collection of 20 signature HUGO designs. Pieces set to feature in the capsule line include the red woman suit, a bicolor man shirt and limited edition ‘90s style headphones, and will be premiered at Galeries Lafayette in Paris from September 2nd, before going live online and in the Champs-Elysées flagship store.
Jil Sander Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
How does Jil Sander manage to fill a blank page without actually penning any ink? Clinical whites were taken to their logical conclusion with the very first look – white coat and all. Save the neon-light glow of luminous piping – a scant sight stolen from a chance flash of lining – whistle clean sterility dictates. The signature Sander classic – the starched white shirt – is a consistent throughout, seeing character alternate schizophrenically between sportswear and futurism.
Lacquered swing coats shine with a bleachy gleam, despite orange and pink flirting luridly against the chaste wishes of white. Longline shorts peep from knitwear, making a play for tailoring, while parachute-style silks take windbreaker sillhouettes, tapered in to an elasticated waist. Tarnished plaids sully a pristine reputation with dirty grays, and scribbled prints downright deface. Silhouette, nonetheless, retains its streamlined shape til the bitter end, with a form that cages and contains graphic's wayward spirit.
Escada Sport Spring/Summer Campaign 2013
Set against the infinite turquoise of the ocean skyline, Escada Sport's Guatemala-inspired Summer collection paints an equally breathtaking view. The campaign, photographed by ZOO's very own Bryan Adams, frames model Sara Blomqvist with the scenery of the promenade, with white walls and palms providing a graphic motif.
The relaxed beach vibe is embodied by motion, as floor-skimming pajama pants catch sail of the wind. Slouch-fit seperates billow with the breeze, though light summer knits in the hottest of pinks certainly make for a lustworthy windbreaker. Bandeaus and monokinis keep swimwear style subtle, but busy patterns keep the eye entertained. Pure ice-whites provide respite from color, amplifying hues like stained glass. Print, all the while, emblazons with stripes of all species: plain rigid lines , graduated batiks and stencilled florals weave through aztec grids – a souvenir from a Guatemalan summer.
London Collections: Men - Day 2
Driving round two of London Collections: Men was a sherbert-sweet sense of summer. Doused in pastels, Richard James gave us soft and simple tailoring, with stand-out espidrilles the only statement piece against a refreshed line of loyal staples.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone, too, presented pared-down pieces, as anoraks and fishing hats echoed the loutish slur of the nineties britpop scene. Katie Eary's graduated prints bought hues to daze in eye-sore orange and fuchsia pink, deep from which jungle skins and flocked flamingos swarm to hypnotise.
Graphic print reigned supreme at Christopher Kane and Sibling, with co-ordinated two pieces obeying a form that is strictly streamlined. Kane's electrifying palette and symmetrical motifs reflected the digital age, whereas Sibling's mix of sportswear and gridlock knits in early nineties lilacs stirred a soup of all-American references, when cliques collided and shared wardrobes. KTZ usurped Arabian silhouettes with a collage of dizzying print; ying and yang motifs, candy stripes and map prints cloaked bodies in draping lengths, with the menace of slogans reading “Poison” and “Terror” made all the more tangible by studded spike accessories.
True to form, Alexander McQueen delivered classical ceremony with typically macarbre undertones, as worn scalloped lace and frayed jaquard were a nod to lost nobility. J.W. Anderson, however, waved the flag for conceptual design. Bold, basic shapes were contorted and displaced, stomachs bared and shoulders constricted in an almost straight-jacket style – a shining example of London's progressive eye. It was Martine Rose, however, who hosted the show that was London incarnate: strewn about a showspace kitted out to enact an unkempt living room, sunblushed graphic tees and scuffed denim set the tone of the collection. Wigged male models lounged on upholstered sofas, flicking through tabloids in white wide-legged pants – not defined by subscription to gender, Rose's proved for a surreal show, to say the least. Only in London...
Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A tent in Hyde Park was the marquee for Burberry Prorsum's homecoming, and what better way to herald British menswear than by paying tribute to England's most prolific creatives. 'Writers and Painters' titled the piece, authored by Christopher Bailey's creative vision.
Like Alan Bennett cutouts, longline woolen coats, sweaters, shirts and oxford slacks weighted the theme of the 'Writer', painted – seemingly – by the brush of David Hockney himself. Off-kilter shades traced the signature of the artist, with blood-red and turquoise piercing from pannels of mustard yellow. At the hand of Hockney, detail is simplified – and so was Bailey's stark color-blocking.
Save a peeking skinny tie and drawstring sack, accessories rarely reared a head. Spotted scarves referenced the painter, though what would either artist be without their chunky trademark frames? Revitalised in a Pop-Art spectrum, the brand's logo studs the surface of box-square sunglasses to optical effect. In praise or pastiche, Bailey's portrait of two artists assuredly paints a pretty picture.
'Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby' in Tokyo
Landing in Tokyo last week – just in time for the Great Gatsby film premiere - was the travelling exhibition Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby. Renowned for her collaborations with husband Baz Luhrmann on such visual feasts as Strictly Ballroom and Moulin Rouge, costume designer and art director, Catherine Martin, once again exercises her meticulous eye for detail as the visionary behind this year's most anticipated adaptation, with Miuccia Prada also at the creative helm.
Curated by New York studio 2x4, the collection showcases the elaborate gowns, shoes and accessories that dressed the stars of the movie – an absorbing viewing that is only enriched by the archive of sketches and backstage footage presented alongside.
Each show is uniquely tailored to its location. At Tokyo's Prada Epicenter, bespoke mannequins reflect the conceptual interior design of Herzog & de Meuron, while full scale body portraits of the actresses in costume bring The Great Gatsby to life in an experience that is at once ascertainable and unbelievably cinematic.
Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby runs in Tokyo until June 30th.
Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Superb tailoring is nothing new for Giorgio Armani. Perhaps more interesting, was his execution of crisp cut-out shape. Navy, as expected, laid the groundwork for the line, but bursting through with vivacious zeal, were hot pinks and scuba blues. Suits hushed in blushing hues – the grainy linen they coveted was equally subdued.
Surface detail roused when pieces looked their most pristine, in ambient geometrics that were surprisingly contemporary. Petrol prints puddled short sleeved tees, while diamonds flocked with a neon glow under slouchy blazers, like drunk argyle. Even in their sober state, golfing knits looked somewhat under the influence; pastel hues turned kaleidoscopic and zig zag dissipated to plain stripe. Collarless shirts, too, took their button lines on the bias, wringing all meaning from reference with one modern twist.
While such innovation is not requisite for an established aesthetic like that of Armani, his ceaseless ability to refresh tradition does not go unnoticed.
Isabel Marant for H&M
H&M today announced news of their eagerly-anticipated design collaboration, with Isabel Marant named as the latest designer to release a collection for the brand. Arriving in stores on November 14th, the collection will be the first in the label's history of collaborations to include a menswear line, following in the success of the David Beckham loungewear line.
Pieces are expected to follow in the ethos of Marant's effortless attitude to dressing – an idea that threads Parisian elegance throughout her aesthetic. Speaking on the collection, the designer said, "I aim to create something real, that women want to wear in their everyday lives, with a certain carelessness, which I think is very Parisian: you dress up, but do not pay too much attention and still look sexy. The collection is infused with this kind of easiness and attitude. Everything can be mixed following one's own instincts."
Previous partners of the label include Karl Lagerfeld, Versarce and Marni – each of whom have produced sell-out collections and queues to line the outside of the stores. A current climate of understated chic, however, forecasts Marant's to be the most sought-after collection for the brand.
Strellson to launch REFINED Edition
Swiss fashion label Strellson are to launch its premium Fall/Winter 2013 collection this August. The REFINED Edition is set to weave together classic and contemporary styles, through reinterpreted heritage fabrics and timeless design. Herringbone and broken twill are given relavance in the digital age, as stretch technology lends practicality to sartorial fashion. Expect updated takes on the typical Strellson sillhouette, with a capsule line of trousers, shirts, jackets, coats and accessories all in a palette of grey. Horn-rimmed glasses set off the look with astute attention to detail, while real horn buttons denote the modern man's taste for tradition.
The REFINED Edition will be available from Strellson shops internationally and online from August 2013.
Karl Lagerfeld Concept Store Openings
With word of a Karl Lagerfeld store expansion generating a steady buzz accross Europe, for Paris and Berlin, anticipation of the new concept stores in the two cities is reaching a crescendo. Wade through the picturesque streets of Le Marais from June 7th to stumble upon newest edition to the eclectic boutiques of Rue Vielle du Temple. The store is the second of its kind to launch in Paris this year, joining the Boulevard St Germain location, which opened in February this year. July 1st will see Berlin welcome it's first Karl Lagerfeld concept store, found on the Neue Schönhauser Straße, closely followed by another opening in Munich this September.
Developed under the creative direction of Berlin-based architects Plajer & Franz, the new Karl Lagerfeld concept stores are to follow in the same vein as it's other recently-opened destinations. Artful design and ground-breaking technology will serve to accent the brand's luxury collections, with matte-black and high-shine feeding texture into Lagerfeld's characteristic monochrome aesthetic.
In-store iPads open a window to the Lagerfeld world, with shoppers able to immerse themselves in the latest collections, photograph their favourite products and even leave a note for the designer. Innovation extends to the fitting rooms, which double as photobooths, equipped with built-in touch screens to apply Karl-inspired filters before uploading to Facebook and Twitter.The growing European presence of the brand shows little sign of waning, with a second Berlin concept store at Leipziger Platz to be unveiled early next year.
Fred Perry 60 Years auction
As part of the 60 Years anniversary of Fred Perry, the brand has compiled a list of their most loyal and distinguished fans and invited them to personalize a 1952 reproduction shirt. 60 shirts have been individually customized with special birthday messages and unique designs as part of the charity fund raising exercise.
From 30th May to 21st July, each of the customised shirts will be available as part of a special online auction in aid of the Amy Winehouse Foundation. The foundation has been set up in Amy's memory to prevent the effects of drug and alcohol misuse on young people and aims to support, inform and inspire vulnerable and disadvantaged young people to help them reach their full potential. The first 15 shirts will go for sale on Ebay on May 30th for a period of ten days and includes customisations from Sister by Sibling, Raf Simons, Bradley Wiggins, Damon Albarn, Exactitudes, Jamie Reid, Neville Brody and Inez & Vinoodh.
The shirts can be bid on from now at www.fredperry.com/60-years-gallery
Dior Cruise 2014
Raf Simons took the house of Christian Dior to Monaco for it's cruise 2014 presentation. The collection was a clear example of Raf pushing both himself and the French institute that is Dior. A new take on the Bar suit with exagerated shoulders and narrow waist in bright red set the tone for a quite sporty collection. This athletic influence was opposed with a new material for Raf: lace. Another reinvented classic was a piece that at first looked and moved like a "new look"-skirt but was, in fact, a baggy trouser with pleats on the hip.
MM6 Store Opening Paris
Just a few days ago, Maison Martin Margiela opened its first European store. After the first store was opened in New York in September 2012, it was only a matter of time until the next store in another fashion capital followed. The big white MM6 script over the entrance and the black door frame is visible from far away, attracting the Parisians’ attention. Located at 22 Place du Marché Saint Honoré the store is located in the prestigious first arrondissement.
The design inside the store contrasts dark wood with shining white tiles. The brown parquet floor leads the customers through the shop, along racks displaying the current SS 2013 collection and faceless white mannequins wearing some of the key looks. The furniture design uses clear lines and simplistic shapes. One of the core materials used for the furniture is glass, either in shimmering see-through or or transparent blue colour. Simplicity is the key to making the MM6 shopping experience a special one.
Mulberry First Berlin Store Opening
To continue the expansion of Mulberry into major European cities, the next store is opening in Berlin. It's the first store of the luxury fashion house in the vibrant German capital, bringing anything from the classic Bayswater to the casual Alexa manufactured in the tradition of dedicated craftsmanship with it. Mulberry, being one of the few fashion brands which still produces their goods in the UK, has always retained a focus on detailed leather craft and thereby guaranteed highest quality of their products.
Never forgetting the rural roots of the British brand, the store's design uses natural materials such as oak wood in warm colours or limestone, reminding of the English countryside. The British architects of Universal Design Studio came up with the store's design located at Kurfürstendamm 184.
A special treat welcoming guests at the opening is a kinetic art installation by the artist Frank Hülsbömmer. Besides the ranges of men’s and women’s leather bags as well as women's ready to wear and shoe collections, the Berlin store is home to the Willow Tote in a shiny brown alligator leather. It's the only one of its
kind in the entire world and available nowhere else.
Skies and Beyond by Bottega Veneta and Nancy Lorenz
Something very special was presented by Bottega Veneta at their Milan store during Salone de Mobile. The luxury fashion house revealed an exclusive line of 25 boxes created in collaboration with the artist Nancy Lorenz. After launching the “Lunar Landscapes“ box collection in 2003 and the “Botanical“ collection in 2002, ten years later the new collection seems to be a worthy follow-up. Its name is “Skies and Beyond“.
Each box is made out of wood and is covered in leather or suede. Rare and valuable materials such as white gold, leaf gold and mother of pearl are used for the lid. Every lid looks different and no box is the same, making each box a unique. Those 25 boxes are the perfect storage space for precious things, while they serve as fancy decoration in any room they are placed in.
Nancy Lorenz, who also lived in Tokyo for five years, found inspiration in the handicrafts and use of unusual materials in traditional Asian arts. She is the perfect fit for such a collection, which is all about detailed hand work. All the boxes are numbered and are available to preview on the official website, where one can also order them with the help of personal shoppers via a phone.
New Edition of The Little Black Jacket
While the book entitled The Little Black Jacket: Chanel's Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld came out in 2012 and its exhibition already toured cities all around the world, the newest edition is just about to be released this year. On 280 pages the book is paying tribute to Chanel's most iconic tweed jacket.
In January 2013 Karl Lagerfeld invited celebrities to his studio in Paris to shoot more images for the new edition of the book. Internationally well-known stars such as Keira Knightley and Diane Kruger reinterpreted the classic jacket and incorporated its look into their own personal style. The photos were taken by the fashion genius Karl Lagerfeld himself. On the official Chanel website the black and white photos can be seen in an interactive online gallery.
New Saint Laurent Store Concept Berlin
After the opening of the new Saint Laurent store in Shanghai, the Berlin store also awaits a new concept. The design and architecture of the store is by Hedi Slimane and turns the 530 square meters of shopping space into a hall of white marble and large black tiles.
It marks the transposition of techniques and materials of French art deco. The store is located at Kurfürstendamm 52 and will carry not only womenswear and menswear collections, but also accessories.
New Converse collections
by Rachel Marie Walsh
How many ways can Converse update their perennially popular Chuck Taylors? Well, this season they’re releasing several new lines with strong, creative themes. Well Worn boasts seven faded, retro-denim styles. The look harkens back to nostalgic American films such as My Girl and Stand By Me, where youngsters in scuffed sneakers experienced friendship, love and loss.
Other lines like Camouflage, Hawaiian and Animal answer questions like: “If a Chuck Taylor were an exotic holiday destination, what would it look like?" Jungle prints, hibiscus patterns and leopard prints showcase the colors of nature and Soho nightclubs.
Collaboration with Jack Purcell brings a touch of femininity, such as a pretty rose print on the plimsolls. Another line co-designed with Finnish brand Marimekko draws attention with crimson strawberry, clouds and spots. John Varvatos toughens things up New York-style, with zips, studs and monochrome colors.
All styles sport traditional chunky soles, breathable uppers and soft lining. You have to hand it to Converse - a brand that never stops reinterpreting a tried-and-true favorite.
Berlin Showroom Fall/Winter 2013-14
While Berlin it is not one of the world’s four principal fashion capitals, its designers are on the right way to establish themselves in the fashion scene. Aside from presenting their new collections at the bi-annual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, this season Berlin designers decided to bring their newest designs to Paris. The event called the Berlin Showroom was the first of its kind. It lasted for four days during Paris fashion week in the beginning of March.
23 designers were carefully selected to participate in the event, amongst them were already well-known designer as well as uprising newcomers. They came together and showcased their work in the Parisian “Espace Topographie de l’art” to over 600 visitors and press.
The professional environment guaranteed success for both designers and buyers, while the fresh feel and enthusiasm of the young event created an inspiring atmosphere. Hopefully the enthusiasm will endure until next season and so the first Berlin Showroom will not remain the last.
Lanvin Summer 2013 Accessories
Not only the good weather is a reason to look forward to summertime, but also Alber Elbaz’ new designs for the Lanvin Summer 2013 accessories collection. The key to the new classic, yet modern designs is a sense of purity and precision, defined by clear and geometrical shapes.
The new shoulder bag Partition features different kinds of leather in graphic shapes and golden metal plates as well as screws. It’s the perfect companion for any occasion. The Stiletto heel reflects traditional craftsmanship and its most innovative part is the mirrored heel. The shoe combines metal pieces with luxurious matte leather. Like the other accessories the jewellery also features a lot of gold. With its large shining surface, the Oracle reflects the beauty of the wearer and is only one piece of jewellery among a series of cuffs, rings, earrings and wide belts reminding of corsets.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013-14
For the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013-14 show the space of the runway was transformed into the hallway of a large Parisian hotel. The walls were draped with old fashioned tapestry and 50 doors out of dark brown wood surrounded the audience. The show immediately conveyed a voyeuristic atmosphere with the viewers being left to wonder what goes on behind closed doors and the desire to take a peek inside.
Once the light turned on, a few of the doors opened and the models left their rooms one after another. Among them were Kate Moss and Georgia May Jagger, who was previously photographed by Bryan Adams for ZOO's last Spring Issue. The collection was a mix of luxurious outerwear and intimate lingerie. The combined styling of the two gave the notion of the models being interrupted either while dressing for a night out or undressing for their lovers. Elegant dressing gowns were thrown on and spontaneously fastened with waist belts, tailored blazers appeared as stand-alone pieces revealing the models’ long legs and astrakhan fur coats were worn over slip dresses with lacy hemlines and pajama ensembles.
Many of the coats and dresses featured colour gradient application of sequins, making the patterns of dull plaids more glamorous. Fur linings and lapels as well as feathery details added another alluring touch. The colours were all toned down and no bright colours disturbed the eye. Shining satin and silk fabrics with cutesy patterns of tiny flowers, seductive see-through lace, high quality wool and luxurious fur were the main fabrics of the collection. A number of delicate dresses with flowery embroidery made for a perfect finish, before the models retreated to their hotel rooms once again. Marc Jacobs, being the genius creator of this collection, took his well-deserved bow – fittingly in red pajamas of the Louis Vuitton menswear collection.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2013-14
The atmosphere of the Hermès Fall/Winter 2013-14 show resembled a romantic movie set inside place of the fashion show – the library of the Parisian Lycée Henri IV – with the models as its leading ladies. The French heritage of the Hermès fashion house and of its designer Christophe Lemaire showed in the chic and sophisticated designs of the collection.
Among them were ankle-length skirts, oversized blazers, V-neck jumpsuits, tailored trousers and a number of elegant white blouses. Leather for jackets and skirts was featured in all kinds of variations from croc leather to suede. The long and wide coats with stand-up collars were a highlight of the runway show. The trick of the styling was to casually layer coats, wearing high quality wool coats on top of large furry coats.
Many of the garments were adorned with black leather trims and various looks had black leather belts with classic golden buckles as accessories. The main colours were different tones of brown from dark brown to hazel, many shades of grey and of course black. Some accents of navy and bright red stripes brought a little more colour into the collection of clear shapes, which every woman can be looking forward to for the wintery season.
Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Lacoste creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptiste and design director Christophe Pillet have taken the label's tenacious crocodile far beyond the tennis court over the last two years. While Baptiste gives the sportswear an urban sensibility, Pillet, who heads Lacoste Lab, works to expand its reach.
Lacoste Lab revives the tradition of innovation, which the prolific Frenchman considers an integral part of the brand’s DNA. The products, mostly outdoor sports equipment, are created through collaborations with carefully-selected partners. Unlike other collaborations, however, the Lacoste brand remains
firmly in place. "These are Lacoste products. They're sold, promoted and designed by Lacoste, but produced by experts," says Pillet.
Pillet's team compiled a shortlist of up-and-coming, state-of-the-art sports brands. “We looked for the most innovative brands, the ones that could offer us real, contemporary technicality, but also the modern ones which are open-minded and enjoy collaborating," he says. "The choice wasn't so hard, because when you look at something like a motorcycle helmet, there's only about five or six brands that really stand out."
The Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection was developed with the young, thrill-seeking consumer in mind. New products include goggles created in partnership with Dragon Alliance, a football, rugby ball and volleyball created with Duarig, petanques with Obut, helmets with Design GPA, and skateboards and snowboards with Artprint and Salomon.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14
Images of a forest were the backdrop for the Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show, which showed black silhouettes of bald trees and soft light that reminded of a sunrise on a crisp morning in fall. Tall trees towered around the audience's seats and displayed the romantic beauty of nature.
The garments were a symbol for romanticisim stripped down to the very bare essentials. The varied usage of fur was one of the collection's key elements. It was fur of all colours and of all kinds – shiny, fluffy, astrakhan. Furry stoles accompanied bandeau tops and wide pants, fur collars added a finishing touch to coats and even gloves as well as boots' main material was fur. Oversized coats and blazers accentuated clear cuts with diagonal zippers as details. Skirts of dresses were slashed, giving away a view on delicate underlying mesh fabrics. Leather jackets and dresses added a feel of casual coolness, while the romantic theme of nature returned in the collection's prints of trees and abstract flower patterns.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
With this Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Miuccia Prada paid tribute to designs she personally liked. Unusual to Prada, it was a very personal approach to creating fashion. Flared coats with round buttons and knee-length skirts with asymmetric cuts were key pieces of the collection. Essential was also the accentuation of sleeves and their puffy look with either pleats or furry details.
The theme of gingham check of Prada's menswear was continued in the womenswear collection. Playful coats in white, light pink and soft blue as well as colourful weekend bags and shoppers were made out of checkered fabrics. Yet the feel of this collection was more mysterious than its menswear counterpart. Dresses and coats were slightly unbuttoned, zippers of jackets and skirts slightly unzipped. Necklines from shoulder free to V-neck were revealing a layered styling and the tender skin of the models. Fine brown crocodile leather as well as shiny gold and silver patent leather added a little more glamour to the collection, as if the dresses covered in black sequins and the luxurious fur coats were not enough.
The models with wet hair look walked their choreographed path accross the runway with sophistication and silhouettes of seducing women and straying cats were projected onto the walls. The inspiration to this Prada collection might have been more emotional than usual, but it still displayed perfection in every garment.
Machine-A Store Opening
13 Brewer Street just became the new London home of fashion store Machine-A. After months of preparation store owner Stavros Karelis and stylist Anna Trevelyan finally celebrated their store opening. “We're open! Come say hi!” says Machine-A's facebook page in all caps and invites new visitors to come and have a look at the new shop.
It's the store's aim to promote skilled designers and to support the uprising talents of tomorrow from the London as well as the international design scene. Besides the garments of designers such as Raf Simons, Agi & Sam, Chalayan, Louise Grey and Nashir Mazhar, the store will also offer a variety of accessories. One of the store's current treasures is the Fred Butler X Swatch watch. With many more interesting pieces to be offered by the store, a bright future lies ahead for Machine-A.
Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2013-14
The designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler succeed in reinventing their label's indentity every season. This time they passed on using colourful fabrics, but instead focussed on a collection almost entirely in black and white, mingled only with some silverish greys and hints of peach and mint.
The collection of the two young designers is more elegant than ever before. Just as in a Haute Couture show, bouclé was used for jackets and fine lace for the final dresses. In addition high quality leather and feathery details appear throughout the collection. Essential to the collection are jackets with wide sleeves and knee-length skirts with slits in front as well as slightly shorter A-line skirts. A range of pumps with pointed toe caps, bows, laser cut details and not too high heels give the collection another classy touch as well as the slim square clutches the models carry under their arms.
Structured jackets and coats live from their asymmetric cuts that look good either way – worn open or fastened with big round buttons. The wideness and straight lines of the coats work very well together with the sleeveless dresses that accentuate the slim waists of the models. The garments look elegant, yet edgy. Sophisticated, yet subtle. Every fashion show it's a surprise what the designer duo comes up with and this collection proved again that it's always worth the wait.
Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2013-14
Extreme Feminity is the theme of Jason Wu's Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. The idea behind it was to dress independent women instead of adolescent girls. Judging from the colours alone, they were more grown up than any of his collections before. The main colours ranged from black over silverish grey with black lace prints to white, while some garments were a warm caramel brown and bright red, just like the Jason Wu gown Michelle Obama donned for her husband's inauguration ball.
Wide collars competed against high buttoned up ones, furry details against feathery dresses. A clear feature of the outerwear were big pockets and lines of black buttons. A variation of black leather belts were worn around the waist of almost model, keeping the serious look together.
The styling was simple yet grown up – evenly parted hair and eyeliner-heavy make up. The scenerey of the runway show had an elegant look to it as well. A massive chandelier was hanging from the ceiling and shiny black tiles marked the path for the models to walk on. However, some garments undeniably retained a playful look with their see-through polka dot patterns and flying pleated skirts.
Raf Simons and Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2013
After successfully launching his Dior Haute Couture collection earlier in January, Raf Simons’ new collaboration is just around the corner – with Fred Perry. The designer’s vision meets commercial fashion and spices up the traditional tenniswear. The campaign’s first teaser video was just released.
Three young men find themselves in a white spaceless place. In slow motion they are swinging their arms around and bobbing up and down the video’s frame as if they were performing a very slow dance. With their soft hair and pure skin they look like lost boys. Jump cuts harmonize with the choppy electronic music of screeching sounds and cracking noise. Stressed and scared facial expressions give the video a tense atmosphere, which is in a way contrasting the smooth look of the classic Fred Perry polo shirt.
Eccentric leopard patterns in grey and rusty-red as well as bold blue-black houndstooth patterns cover the shirts, while the collars often stay in a classic black. In other frames of the teaser, the shirts are worn in a layered fashion and colourful collars compete with each other. To truly pay tribute to the collaboration even the logo has changed: Not Fred Perry’s name but the one of Raf Simons is written below the brand’s signature laurel wreath.
Pointer and COMME des GARÇONS Spring/Summer 2013
After last year's successful COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT and Pointer Footwear collaboration, they are pooling their talents once again for the new Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The classic Benjamin model is coming back in bright colours to be worn on sunny summer days.
Two different tri-coloured variations of the Benjamin will be available instead of the usual unicoloured model. One of the variations features a soft pink and an azure blue, while the other one features a deep green and luscious red.
The design of the shoe resembles a classic Derby or Blucher shoe, but at the same time it also passes as sportswear with its white slightly wedged cupsole. Looking dapper and athletic at the same time the shoe is easy to wear to many different occasions. All in all a relaxed yet smart package.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Provocations is the title of Calvin Klein’s Spring 2013 ad campaign and its star is Alexander Skarsgard. The Swedish actor most known for his role as1000-year old vampire in HBO’s True Blood appears alongside the Finnish model Suvi Koponen.
The Scandinavian couple is hot and sweaty wearing tight jeans in one scene, staring coldly at each other dressed in chic suits in the next. The entire campaign contains contrasting elements: Roaring fire in contrast to still black water surfaces. Modern symmetric architecture as the complete opposite of a shabby room furnished with an old TV set. Slow motion effects are used throughout the whole 10-minute clip, making fire explosions and the shattering of glass walls even more spectacular. The tiniest turquois glass splinters seem to be floating weightlessly through the air.
Each segment of the ad campaign has a different title: Part III. is entitled Wasting Time with Koponen daydreaming and chilling on the floor in a pair of skinny jeans. End Game is the name of another part with Skarsgard wearing a white suit and slowly lighting a match while staring at Koponen across the room. The campaign promotes garments, jeans and accessories by Calvin Klein all at the same time. The director of the film is Fabien Baron.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2013 campaign was recently revealed: It stars none other than Kate Moss, Westwood’s husband Andreas Kronthaler and Dame Vivienne Westwood herself with her signature fiery mane. German photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in the Viennese museum for historic art.
It features garments of the Gold Label as well as pieces from the menswear and accessories line. The backdrop of the ornate golden frames, religious and antique oil paintings contrasts the rebellious feel of the collection and the provocative attitude of the campaign’s protagonists.
Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 2013-14
Hats, jumpsuits with diagonal zippers, long light coats with slits in the back and cool biker jackets remind of the punk attitude of the musician Patti Smith. Designer Leyla Piedayesh was inspired by Smith when she created her new Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection.
However, the designer’s ideas are also strongly influenced by her Persian decent. Oriental and ethnical patterns are featured in many of the garments mixed with static geometric patterns.
In terms of shapes there’s a contrast between wide or long tops and extremely short bottoms. Big woolen jumpers are long enough to be worn as dresses, but are paired with very short skirts peeking out underneath. Any material from cashmere over mohair to angora is used for the thick knits and snoods. Other fabrics are different kinds of silk and leather. The range of colours includes black, grey, blue, red as well as a soft pink.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
In John Varvatos' new campaign two generations of guitar virtuosos meet: For once it features the legendary rock guitarist Jimmy Page from Led Zepplin, undoubtedly one of the greatest rock and roll bands of all times. The 28-year old Gary Clark Jr. is his counterpart, a young emerging musician, who released his debut album last Fall and has already been widely praised for his talents as a guitarist, a singer and a songwriter.
“Having 'The Master' and the 'Young Guitar-Slinger' together in our campaign is a dream come true”, says the designer John Varvatos himself. The brand has ever since had an affinity for stylemakers within the rock'n'roll scene.
Photographer Danny Clinch captures the two musicians in a classic black and white portrait. Its simplicity gives the image even more impact. The scenery of the campaign is the famous 1950's concert venue Rivoli Ballroom in South London, where music legends like Tina Turner used to perform. The video clip was shot there as well and is worth taking a look at.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
Everything looks geometric. A clear structure is the key to the Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Inspired by the modernist Bauhaus architecture and design, the garments are equally well structured.
Pumping beats and a robotic voice serenaded the models' static walk down the runway, who resemble robots themselves. Square patterns and necklines are key elements of the collection and appear everywhere. Soft cashmere and wool yarns are woven into contradicting rectangular patterns.
All in all the collection has a very modern and sporty feel to it. Apart from black and beige, the dominant colours are a bright red, a shiny yellow and a deep blue. Back to the primary colours, back to the roots.
Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2013-14
From casual outerwear like the green military parka or black leather jacket to smart coats the Balenciaga F/W 2013-14 proves to be versatile. The well-fitted camel jacket or the oversized grey cocoon coat are essential for this year's Balenciaga's menswear collection.
A varied mix of suits and wide pants makes the collection what it is. Graphic prints to fine stripes are covering the high quality fabrics, which vary from wool tweed to velvet. The versatility can not only be seen in style but also in colour: bright to navy blue, dark greens to khaki, different tones of camel, varied shades of grey and black combine well together. Defined cuts give the garments a clear shape and symmetrical buttons add a finishing touch.
Cerruti 1881 Fall/Winter 2013-14
What do you get when an Italian founds and builds a house in Paris? The answer, today, was Cerruti 1881. Long coats in classic colours - black, navy, and camel - were elegant and looked made to match anything. But details - like buttons lining up slyly in the back, a few inches from the hem upwards; or leather-trimmed lapels that in black felt dramatic - were a touch of rebelliousness that felt in line with Paris collections.
Black coats, one in a formfitting suede with a mandarin collar, and another one hooded and loose enough to hide in, added to an aesthetic that seemed to be on a quest for individuality. Subdued sweaters and trousers - ‘basics’ - then reigned this spirit in. And so teetering on a line between very wearable and and a tad bit developmental, the show came to a close, leaving the question of where new designer Aldo Maria Camillo will take the brand in the future.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Paris Fashion menswear week started last wednesday and one of the first houses to present their collection was Valentino, who moved the menswear from Italy to France. The Valentino man's new house is the prestigious Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, where the Valentino Haute Couture woman also lives. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are known for experimenting with material. In this collection, which was London-inspired, they found a way to heat-bond leather to other materials, a technique they picked up during their background in accessories. Broad bands of leather were applied to coats and capes in navy and black. An oversized pied-de-poule motif was printed with the same technique on a smaller version for a trench coat, being both graphic and subtle.
As much as Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo like to push things forward, their menswear never crosses the fine line into fashionable jibber-jabber. Capes, normally considered not the most wearable pieces for men, looked rather relevant. Sharp suits were spiced up with a scarf in cashmere and fur that are attachable to the button of a jacket, as a modern reference to the formal scarf worn with tuxedos. The notion of shadow has been a recurring theme in Valentino's vocabulary of today, and was noticeable in the combination of black and navy and the 'double revers', a darker patch of silk under the lapels. Recurring details like the camouflage, this time in black and grey, and studs, can not be considered as seasonal trends anymore but are part of Valentino's staples, as if it never was any other way.
Haute Couture influences always was an important theme for the designers but opposed to before, when the clothes moved away from the body, this season they were much tighter and therefore more sensual, molding around the body because of their knitted backs and use of soft leathers. Materials were mixed to ensure comfort with a leather shirt lined in cotton and a viscose sweater that was cashmere in the inside. The insides of clothing offer a complete new world for the wearer, with a simple mac with a down-jacket interior and a fur coat with a sporty lining.
Emporio Armani Presents The Fall/Winter 2015/16 Campaign starring Calvin Harris
DJ and producer Calvin Harris stars in the Brooklyn located campaign, a monochrome of cinematographic features shot by photographer Lachlan Bailey. The highly prolific musician Calvin Harris is portrayed in various workplace environments clad in the FW collections’ garments, ranging from leather jackets to the iconic Emporio Armani underwear, eyewear and watches. The continuing collaboration strengthens the ties between the fashion house to the world of the energetic dynamism of contemporary music – with innovation, and futurism intertwined with an assured sense of style. www.armani.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Spring/Summer 2016 at Berlin Fashion Week
From season to season the German capital proves there’s life in the old dog yet. Roughly 50 shows, an abundance of trade fairs, Microsoft’s IT COTOURE, MasterCard’s Priceless Berlin Launch, Zalando saving the Bread and Butter and opening its Fashion House, as well as the German Fashion Council’s first installment of the Berliner Mode Salon: while this is neither Paris nor Milan, Berlin has sustained international appeal as a fashion metropolis. Coincidentally the premier collection on day one was titled ‚The long march to victory’. Menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased a tone on tone, almost monochrome collection with mystically painted, muddy faces. Usually dark and gloomy with a hopeful flash of light colors towards the end, dangling starps and unusual cutouts, Daniel Blechmann’s vision assembles into a continuous look throughout – all the way down to the boots, which are the result of a fruitful collaboration with Palladium Boots. The Pampa Hi SOPOPULAR will be available from January 2016.
Maverick Marcel Ostertag sought inspiration in the ‚Desert’. His models were adorned in bright colored daily wears. Desert prints on flowing kaftans are standout pieces of the collection. Aside from many light and airy fabrics in shades of brown and yellow, Ostertag showcased delicate gowns crafted from tulle and embroidery in midnight blue and white.
Perfectly timed for Wimbledon, bright white and grass green opened Hien Le’s Spring/Summer 2016 show. Tennis attire of the 1960s and 70s was most obviously the inspiration for his collection and worked splendidly: sporty elegance and his ever so present carefree lightness shaped the season’s designs. Pants, shorts, slightly flared mini skirts; pleats, button-down dresses made from summer wool, Swiss Cotton and coated linen in unadorned, masterly cuts are all part of Le’s signature style. This time around prints were minimal and played right tot the collection’s theme – in the form of tiny crossed tennis rackets.
PERRET SCHAAD once again offered light silk pieces, flowing in the wind at every turn. A perfectly composed color scheme from light shades of green to grey and pinks made for a diversified yet harmonious coloring. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection embodies the freshness and intensity of a crisp seaside vacation, set off by urban asphalt hues. The mix of natural and artificial colors in this collection juxtaposes the existential severity and lightness PERRET SCHAAD’s classical designs are renowned for. Linens, breezy silks and sheer voile cotton counter heavier fabrics and create volume and interesting lines, much as we have come to expect from the design duo. Long, flowing pants, silk dresses and coats from crinkled linen in midnight blue, black and earth tones make another appearance at Michael Sontag’s show. The designer is another one of those veterans who sticks to his unmistakable signature with his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings – and the collection is better for it.
Malaikaraiss on the other hand strayed a little from her usual styles and envisaged surfer girls with a sleek look, soft dresses, transparent blouses and round straw hats, the very coherent, grown-up look is reminiscent of summer’s fun in the sun.
Lala Berlin’s iconic prints are delicately dispersed on chiffon dresses as well as pant suits suitable for everyday life. Wide pants with pleats folded toward the middle, cut from a jacquard fabric with hobnail patterns will also work well commercially.
White dots are embroidered onto black chiffons; pecking birds on a camisole and a dress is adorned with embroidered pineapple upon the hips in Augustin Teboul’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Both designers almost appropriate black denim jackets and pants to street wear – almost. They threaded rows of shimmery black pearls into frayed knees and shoulders - a beautiful finale for day three of Berlin Fashion Week.
Marina Hoermanseder once again showcased her impeccable craftsmanship in molded leather - this time in globe-skirts with leather blossoms tight skirts made from leather straps and cast plastic corsages, added by a number of wearable dresses, blouses and wide-legged pants made from washable silk, suede, and white cotton with eyelet embroidery. During her quest for traditional craft producers, the designer found her Spring/Summer 2016 collection inspiration in elaborately embellished traditional costumes and garments from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and monarchy.
Dorothee Schumacher found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection in a paradisiac jungle with florals, beige safari looks, furiously mixed prints. Like many other designers this past week, Dorothee Schumacher rediscovered the shoulder and thereby put a new twist on her ever present play with femininity.
Overall this installment of Fashion Week showcased many of the style tropes associated with the renowned New Objectivity – muted colors, flowing, understated cuts – all perfectly executed by Berlin’s MVPs. However, there are interesting newbies making their mark, promising a future for Berlin’s fashion circuit.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Guess: His & Hers
Forget everything you know about denim. Guess’ slogan challenges you to ponder the age old adage of ‘no denim on denim’ with their denim capsule collection. Who doesn’t like to shake up the rules every once in a while? Well forget everything about what you’d think a denim suit would look like – Guess throws all the rules out of the window and presents the tailored denim suit… and nails it. The collection showcases the customization of the sophisticated suit, where Guess presents a complete reversal of this thought-to-be fashion faux pas. A top to toe denim suit . A sexy one. For both him and her. The tailored denim items will be available from September 2015.
Louis Vuitton Series 3 – Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign
Starring new muse Alicia Vikander and returning beauty Jennifer Connelly, the campaign is shot by Juergen Teller and Bruce Weber and showcases the FW 2015-2016 collections worn by the quintessential Louis Vuitton woman. The refined elegance of the garments and the women is highlighted, juxtaposed against an industrial, stark background. Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière has had an amazing season following the stunning resort collection and continues to take the brand to new heights.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
Kenzo Resort 2016 Collection
The unifying pillar of the Kenzo Resort 2016 collection is its nod towards the modern-day woman on the go. With the universe at her feet and a yearning for functionality, Kenzo provides the sartorial relief for a woman in need of comfort paired with practicality and elegance. With subdued prints and flowing fabrics, the collection is made decidedly versatile with its soft, natural color scheme. Camouflage greens, stone greys, pale violets and beiges make sure the Kenzo Resort 2016 garments fits into any setting.
Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Campaign
“Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands.”
Embracing the liminal quality of those who inhabit both past and present mentalities, the Gucci FW 2015-2016 campaign explores the disconnection of those not entirely at home in the present moment. The elegant mix of vintage elements and futuristic fabric combinations positions the collection within the elusive space between “no longer” and “not yet”.
Creative director Alessandro Michele explains that the collection is the summation of his envisioning of today’s urbanite attitude – blurring divisions of gender and time permeate every garment. In a campaign photographed by Glen Luchford, models Tessa Charlotte Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, Lia Pavlova and Sven de Vries inhabit the bodies of the ‘Gucci contemporaries’. There is no doubt that Michele has delivered a stunning collection - be it past, present, or other.
Versace FW 2015 Campaign
Versace’s color-blocked playground stars models Karlie Kloss, Caroline Trentini and Lexi Boling as the fashion house’s campaign protagonists. Championing the strong sophistication of the Versace essence, primary colors dominate and provoke. Introducing the #GREEK motif, Donatella Versace’s artistic direction steers the iconic brand towards a remixed, modernized play on the mod-dress.
The striking campaign is the result of the photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who enhanced Donatella’s vision of the woman unfazed and empowered by boldness through color and cut.
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HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Industrial cuts, classical in nature yet futuristic in look is the order of the day in the recently revealed HUGO BOSS FW 15 campaign. Laced with crimsons, the pervading grays are elevated from classic to edgy, safe to bold. Artistic Director Jason Wu brings to the campaign a cemented Berlin feeling in his refined layers of anthracite felt.
Featuring Clément Chabernaud and Edie Campbell, this ode to Wu’s structural vision is reflected in the photographic work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, directed by Stephen Galloway. The collection tells a story through the play between structure form and a striking palette of black, red, camel and gray.
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
CHANEL, Pharrell & Lederhosen
The Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign stars CHANEL veteran Cara Delevingne, tour-de-force musician Pharrell Williams and the now seasoned runway walker Hudson Kroenig. Taken by Lagerfeld himself, the campaign features the collection’s trademark knits, knee-high lace-up boots and lederhosen.
Pharrell Williams, who will be awarded the CFDA Fashion Icon Award at this year’s ceremony, looked suitably at ease in the pieces inspired by the Hamburg-raised Lagerfeld’s roots. By combining the traditions of the region with a touch of Haute Couture, the collection evokes in the viewer connotations of a contemporary von Trapp family.
The collection will be available in boutiques and on chanel.com in June.
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Fendi Launches a Digital Boutique
Fendi has just launched their digital boutique. You can now have the experience of visiting a Fendi store whenever you want. Whether it’s a holiday or the middle of the night, you’re always welcome to look around and see the latest capsule collections. The brand is offering you a 360° experience, where service is of high importance. The boutique is open in Europe for now, but the US and Japan will follow later this year.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Fringes, extremely wide flared pants, stripes and large belts around the waist all referred to this specific luxury from the seventies. Oliver Rousteing showed his vision for Balmain in a way that was clear and spot on. It is that confident girl, which likes to be looked at. An intimidating woman, that doesn’t dress down.
The overall feel of the collection was very Parisian; something that Balmain has always had in its essence. Every look seems to be perfect for a night out in Paris, but only if you fit the previous description.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ice cold blues and deep, warm reds dominated the Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The overall mood was dark, vampy and there was a certain suspense. For some reason, it felt as if the models would smoothly fit into the set of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, which gave it something... idiosyncratic.
Armani managed to keep the Emporio woman utterly mysterious by adding goth-like elements to ensembles that were otherwise highly feminine and slightly more plain. The short, black hair, specific tailoring and use of black velvet turned the show into a Lynchian story, leaving us with goosebumps.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Sopopular at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Sopopular had clearly been mixing with the wrong crowd this season, bearing all the markers of the tough tribe with the bullet-hole knits and bomber jackets in a plethora of panther-black leather.
Three-quarter length pants in felted wool crumpled up at the midriff, waistbands folding over like neat paper bags. Crew neck sweaters were glossed in a sable sharkskin sheen or decked in chunky rope, each an understated elaboration, yet resounding in their effect.
Winning friends through dominion? Sopopular will show you how.
Narrow collar shirts emerged in all-over ebony leather, while cropped tracksuit bottoms assumed similarly supple skins. Macintosh raincoats and capes were sapped of all pigment, their parchment-paper translucence layered over an ink-black uniform, making way for fuzzy plush dressing-gown coats, knotted nonchalantly at the middle.
Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Here’s a question: who would ever think that mixing a pair of baby pink roll-up pants with a patterned burgundy full-zip sweater is a good idea? Federico Curradi, the Creative Director of Iceberg’s menswear line, for one, certainly would - and rightly so. As awkward as the pairing sounds, the surprisingly effervescent look was just one of the highlights of the Italian brand’s Milano presentation.
There was something soothingly poetic about Iceberg’s latest offering. The aforementioned pants. The shrunken beanies. The Seinfeld-esque fit. By combining undersized pieces with their ballooned-up counterparts, Curradi delivered the utmost magical ensembles, albeit perhaps a little strange-looking to the untrained eye.
There’s no denying that under Curradi’s masterful direction in the men’s division, the one-time knitwear-only specialists have grown into a fashion force to be reckoned with. And with no more than 20 looks for FW15, the public is inevitably left craving for more. Quality over quantity? At Iceberg, any time.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
If any one London label should honor the centenary this season, it ought to be McQueen. McQueen, so unfailingly allied with uniform – whose models emerge more like warriors than mere mannequins – paid a pertinent tribute to the poppy this FW15.
Mourning suits played out in pinstripe, bearing commands of comemmoration – “honour”, “valour” and “truth” – while macabre florals were mottled by murky camos. The all-black palette eventually subsided, giving way to olive drab and navy blue felts before the eventual poppy-red, rolling out in sumptuous velvets and silk jacquards. Pants ebbed from ankle-grazer drainpipes to broad ¾ cargos, while padded combat jackets were party to pattern, cloaked over quilted co-ord tees. Pocketed tunics went slimline, protracting the never-ending line of pencil-thin cigarette pants.
Then there were those Remembrance poppies, immortalised in silk motifs to edge tailoring, and emblazoned across the chests of chunky roll-necks. Velvet collars and crepe soles platformed a picture of the teddy-boy, but rendered romantic and sober in memoriam.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
La Perla Re-Opens Historic Boutique in Paris
La Perla has re-opened its historic Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris. Designed by renowned architect Roberto Baciocchi, the store's interior was inspired by the Castelvecchio Museum in Verona, Italy. Soft, dusty colours pervade the 230 square metre space. Rich gold detailing accentuates the boutique's luxurious atmosphere.
The La Perla pieces are entrapped in delicate glass cases or displayed on velvet-clad trays. On the first floor, customers are welcomed into the VIP zone, where 'Made-to-Measure' collections are available. The area also leads to the boutique's most beautiful spot – the winter garden – where an array of show stopping pieces are presented on pedestals.
To commemorate the re-opening of the store, a celebratory event took place on 27 November, 2014. The launch party was attended by French actress Mélanie Laurent, dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied, as well as Tony Thornburg and Richard Biedul, models from the La Perla men's catwalk.
Fred Perry Gary Hume Blank Canvas Collection
Continuing to collaborate with iconic British artists, fashion brand Fred Perry have announced their Gary Hume Blank Canvas Collection.
The collection will consist of three screen printed shirts based on original Gary Hume artworks. Chosen to enhance the classic Fred Perry shirt the artworks Spike (2006), Exclamation Mark (2004) and Blue Collar (2013) have been selected for their simple yet striking aesthetic.
Describing Fred Perry as "the uniform of the smart, disgruntled youth" Gary Hume is a successful English painter and printmaker famous for his work in London during the 1990s. The shirts will be available for men in Laurel Wreath collection stores and online from August 2014.
The Neo-Neoclassic Diesel Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Incorporating Diesel icons, leather rock ‘n’ roll, denim and military – utility, the Fall/ Winter 2014 Diesel campaign entitled ‘The Neo – neoclassic’ comprises of an exciting amalgamation of dynamic imagery and explosive backdrops.
Modelled by actors, models, musicians and internet stars, the campaign fuses the classic with the contemporary to create something distinct and spirited whilst adhering to a ‘new vision of the brand and ‘the forming of a new kind of tribe’.
Formulated by Nicola Formichetti and Nick Knight, the images capture the sleek and distinctive Diesel collection and showcase ‘a new form of Diesel’s alternative spirit’.
Marina Hoermanseder at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Frank and provocative best describes Marina Hoermanseder's designs. Hoermanseder was one of the finalists of this year's Start Your Own Fashion Business awards and had the audience gasping at the first glimpse of her SS15 collection. This time around the 28-year-old Austrian focused on a particular way of leather treatment. Bags, corsets, dresses and skirts were made from belt-like leather elements, which Hoermanseder combined in a herringbone fashion. The resulting shapes and patterns were interesting and quirky with loads of sex appeal. But Hoermanseder does not simply make clothes, she creates stories and discourse: a high-necked nude leather poncho stiffed the model’s movement and covered chin and mouth, silencing here in a way we attribute to veiling.
At the same time the design bared most of the models lower body. Another stand out was an anatomically correct torso-corsage, which suggested the model to be a naked mannequin. This avant-garde SS15 showcase stuck to feminine natural colors, such as nude, coral, soft yellow and apricot, which added to the surreal and disturbing vibe of the collection. Hoermanseder’s mix of cheery, bright pieces and surreal details set the mood of David Lynch’s Twin Peaks universe, where nothing is quite what it seems and reality and dream are indistinguishable – social commentary included.
Vladimir Karaleev at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Sporty, sporty is the way to go for Vladimir Karaleev. His show for SS15 paired opaque and see-through fabric for light and fresh summer ensembles. Colors are reminiscent of a poolside session - sandy creme, rich shades of blue, sunny yellow, berry hues as yummy as a raspberry margarita, and forgiving favorite black. There is more than meets the eye to Karaleev's looks and it needs a second and often third take to fully grasp the inventive cuts, fabrics and patterns of his designs. Surreal, patchwork-esque even, best describes the SS15 collection in which he sows different color and texture fabrics together right down the middle, reuses scraps of fabric to create prints and patterns, yet manages to never turn clownish in the process. That is true craftsmanship and a unique POV.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
If there is one point of critique about Daniel Blechman's SS15 collection, it'd have to be that he has not yet ventured into womenswear. SOPOPULAR has quickly become a fashion pack favorite during Berlin Fashion Week, leaving female guests extremely jealous of the urban, purist menswear looks. The current collection, called "Wasteland", sticks to black, white and gray, mixed with quiet wooden and dusty prints. Military elements could be seen here and there. Singer Ben Ivory composed a song of the same name as the collection, that set the tone during the presentation. Inspired by tribes and gangs, Blechman send bermudas, biker jackets, blousons and tunics down the runway, all the while paying close attention to his design's sustainability. And now some of those cool pieces for the ladies, please.
Perret Schaad at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
It's already been Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad's 10th collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. For their SS15 presentation, the dynamic duo drew inspiration from the French Riviera. The contrast of down-to-earth Southern France and its exciting Mediterranean charm resulted in pieces that are perfect for a day at the Côte d’Azur. The label interpreted SS15's trend color blue in combination with light hues. Surprising details such as outside stitching and laser-cut details add to the collection's modern vibe, and thereby turn the otherwise tedious rush hour during summer time into an imaginary stroll down the Corniche.
Patrick Mohr x Reebok Classics
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Sportswear brand Reebok teamed up with designer Patrick Mohr to create an incredible collaboration that is testament to the designer's Goth aesthetic and the sportswear giant’s core values. Renowned Reebok styles such as the Ex-O-Fit Hi and the Womens Freestyle Hi - two classic high-tops - were designed by Mohr unison with his dazing style. Luxe materials and textures from calfskin to ostrich leg and salmon skin with a little rock star attitude in the form of studs mark the, collaboration. Mohr's colors of choice here are ubiquitous black and loud purple. The collection collaboration will be available exclusively at Solebox, Berlin, and online.
Julian Zigerli at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
photos by Getty Images
Swiss design genius Julian Zigerli had the honor of opening Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Following showcases in hip and urban spaces around the city in past seasons, this comes to show how well appreciated the quirky designs are in the midst of the usual New Objectivity that reigns among most of the city’s designers. Inspiration for his SS15 collection came from his father’s philosophy, „life is one of the hardest“, which serves as the title for the collection.
The collection intends to depict a wonderful, dark and crazy world from the POV of a stressed nine-to-fiver, who steps out of his everyday monotony into a world he can’t quite fathom. However, he still indulges in the uncertainty of things to come. Zigerli sticks to what he knows, and once again masters prints to the fullest. This time they were done by hand in an actual physical environment by using foam, rather than designing them on a computer screen. The collection’s color scheme stems from the CMYK color palette.
Zigerli’s focus remains on designing cool - at times kooky - contemporary clothing. For SS15 he sent out soft sportswear and bright two-toned suits. Vibrant tones and the experimental foam prints brought sass to the runway. Constructed cut outs, half sleeves, freely flapping loops of fabric and peek-a-boo gaps, showed off the designer's fresh and cheeky approach to fashion. Zigerli also incorporated head-to-toe patterns, such as camouflage or chevron stripes, which took center stage on swimwear, sweaters and summer suits, making for easy breezy summer styles.
Atelier Versace Haute Couture Fall 2014
Not shy of the Avant-garde, the Atelier Versace Fall 2014 Haute Couture show adhered to classic Versace extravagance. Exaggerated, powerful shoulders graced snazzy jackets, excessive fringing was incorporated onto jackets, dresses, trousers and gloves and leg revealing slit dresses were covered in shades of deep blue, purple,black and white. Buckle detailing was placed onto dresses, jackets, skirts and tops producing a strong aesthetic and colored fur coats and sparkling glitter made for a flashy and dramatic finale.
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2014
Beginning with exquisite, wedding style dresses that adhered to Christian Dior's classic 1950s new look, the Christian Dior Fall 2014 Haute Couture show presented a modern yet elegant collection. Dresses embellished with subtle and refined jewels and floral patterns exuded grace and luxury while sleek jumpsuits emblazoned with floral patterns and accessorized with waist-clinching belts modernised the classic styles. Zips were intriguingly decorated onto the front of dresses and onto trousers and long, shapely coats were worn as dresses over trousers. Matching mini skirt and top amalgamations made for lively compilations and overall Simons applied historic influencers to a modern aesthetic.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Located on the Vasquez rocks north of Los Angeles, the HUGO BOSS 2014 Campaign showcases men's and womenswear in a simple yet strong set of images.
The tranquil and scenic desertscape background is juxtaposed by the powerful and authoritive stance of the models and provides the ideal scenery for the sleek and striking clothing.
Photographed by Pierre Debusschere, the campaign is accompanied by a video which highlights the progressive looks in the Fall/ Winter 2014 collection and displays Debusschere's talent for producing inventive and innovative images.
Kris Van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Sleek and innovative, the Kris Van Assche Spring 2015 Menswear collection presented an originative and stylish compilation. Suits were skillfully reinterpreted; trousers and shorts had slits at the knees, white shirts were worn with cut off neck ties and hoodies were worn underneath blazers. A distinctive pale blue pattern was seen on shorts, trousers and suits and metallic suits were worn with printed shirts, the result was a sharp yet fresh amalgamation.
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Described as "a woman's journey through her dreams and her deepest sensuality " the Blumarine Fall/Winter 2014 campaign incorporates timeless femininity and the wistful allure of a traveller in a sensuous mix.
Set in a modern Japanese Ryokan, model Thairine Garcia is embellished with traditional far east prints, precious silk dresses and flower decorations. The softeness of the clothing is juxtaposed by vivid atmosphere of the setting and the exotic backdrop provides a dreamy and tranquil ambience.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Transcending from polished and dapper suits to 90s style loose, light blue jeans and classic white trainers, the Dior Home show provided a suitable aesthetic for the modern man. Suits were decorated in striking prints and jackets and jeans were embellished with logos. Effective layering was applied to striped vests worn under blazers and striped t - shirts worn over white shirts. Casual yet chic double denim provided a quirky alternative to the suit and shiny, patent blazers added something unique.
DENHAM store Berlin
Amsterdam store DENHAM famous for being 'the jeanmaker' will open their first stand alone store in Berlin Mitte.
As well as the seasonal ready to wear collections, the full range of premium 5 pocket denim will be available across the 117sqm store. The store launches after the success of the 14oz pop up in the Blue Yard shopping center which will serve as an anchor to the standalone DENHAM store.
The new store will also feature DENHAM's signature on site sewing repair concept with a denim wash service also being offered. Already popular in the Amsterdam and Tokyo stores, this service will give customers a personalized and unique shopping experience while adhering the the DENHAM ethos. Complying with the brands modernist and rich vintage aesthetic, the new store will feature key retail fixtures and fittings and will celebrate its opening on Tuesday 8th July.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Rock and roll became colorful, bold and exciting at the Haider Ackermann Spring 2015 Menswear show. It was grungy, edgy and overlylayered whilst remaining sleek and refined. Oversized scarfs were effortlessly wrapped around necks and experimental fabrics including patent black, gold velvet and patterned silk were used. Outfits were effectively created, giving a thrown together look and almost over styled yet undeniably chic. Not following rules, Ackermann mismatched patterns and prints in an impressive amalgamation.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Producing a polished, rock and roll aesthetic, the Diesel Black Gold Spring 2015 Menswear show cleaned up an edgy and rugged style by applying a skinny design to black jeans, relaxed t - shirts and sharp blazers. Exquisite and artistic printed black leather motorcycle jackets served as statement pieces and were worn with skinny trousers and leather boots. Zip up turtle necks oozed sophistication and zip decorated jeans provided a distinct edge.
Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Bright and bold prints and patterns were accompanied with beige garments in the Dsquared² Spring 2015 show. Small, artistic images were printed onto shirts, jackets and trousers and bold badges were placed onto denim jackets and shirts. Modern and colourful designs were placed onto white t - shirts and worn with flat form sneakers and colour blocked sandals. Adding an air of sophistication, long beige overcoats were styled over buttoned up denim shirts and fitted trousers but the quirkiness was brought back through two toned bucket hats and bright stripes placed onto beige jackets and trousers.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Prada's neat and defined Menswear Spring 2015 collection incorporated womenswear in a slick amalgamation. Suits with the seams clearly outlined were paired with sharp shirts and sandals. Colours and materials were effectively clashed; dark blazers were combined with striped shirts, beige sweaters and coloured trousers with long patent leather overcoats placed over. Clashed patterns were styled with chic blazers worn over sweaters and sleek metallic suits exuded sophistication. The womenswear, showcased alongside the menswear adopted a similar aesthetic with patterned sweaters clashed with patterned pencil skirts and worn under patent leather overcoats and straight , mid length dresses emblazoned with the seams outlined.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Keeping to nautical tones, the John Varvatos Spring 2015 menswear collection combined well-tailored blazers with fitted trousers and loosely wrap around scarfs. Cool silvers, whites and greys were integrated with earthy browns to create a casual and cosmopolitan style. Excellently tailored and incorporating an amalgamation of textures and detailing, the collection provided a sleek and characteristic combination.
Bally at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Keeping it simple yet sophisticated was the obvious mood at the Bally Spring 2015 runway. The lines were kept clean, the tailoring was finished impeccably and the accessories were kept to a minimum; plush leather oversize bags and black sunglasses. The colour palette however, was adventurous and bold, deep turquoises and burgundies covered jackets, dark beige was used on leather jackets and rich dark blue on trousers. The fourteen piece collection exuded refinement whilst adhering to a modern style.
Vivienne Westwood at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Sporting ‘Moral Outrage’ emblazoned t – shirts, Vivienne Westwood’s activist views were not left out of her Menswear Spring 2015 show. Westwood created a truly experimental and theatrical collection with distinct, unbuttoned shirts being worn under bright, deconstructed blazers, farmer-esque top hats and frayed cowboy – style denim. The show was eclectic and in keeping with the activist undertone, models wore pink pig snouts, Westwood not only exhibited a striking and skilful collection but used the runway as a platform for her environmentalist beliefs.
RAW for the Oceans wins Grand Prix
Denim brand G – Star RAW’s collaboration ‘RAW for the Oceans’ has won the Grand Prix award for Product Design at Cannes Lions Festival. As a long-term creative exploration between G-Star RAW and Bionic Yarn, ‘RAW for the Oceans’ innovates denim whilst impacting the plastic pollution in our oceans. In partnership with The Vortex Project and Parley for the Oceans, the initiative is culminated in G-Star collections and made from Bionic Yarn.
Offering solutions to the issue of ocean pollution, the project aims to tackle this problem through highlighting innovative product design. Described by President of the Cannes Lions Festival Jury, Donghoon Chang as “the Holy Grail”, G –Star RAW’s campaign underlining denim innovation presents sustainable and functional fashion that is to become part of the collection’s design.
G – Star has produced another revolution in the denim industry and Chang goes on to characterize their campaign as a stand out for “form, function, innovation, and a commitment to sustainability and social responsibility.”
G-Star and Marc Newson
Denim specialist G – Star RAW and industrial designer Marc Newson celebrated their decade long working relationship with an insightful event at the Design Museum in London.
Experimenting with art and fashion, an iconic piece from the collaboration is the Reversible Tour Jacket. A changeable bomber jacket with features including a compilation of graphic patches, grey silk sateen and a black quilted back.
Renowned for their stylish collaborations between art and fashion, the duo’s collections have expressed architectural constructions, streetwear references, and premium fabrications.
Australian born Marc Newson is a multi-disciplinary artist and has been described as the most influential designer of his generation. On speaking on his relationship with G – Star, Newson expressed “I think it is admirable that G-Star has the vision to embrace one industry’s ability to learn from another. They understand that design is a way of a company differentiating itself.”
The event took place on 11th of June and the G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Anniversary Collection for Fall/Winter 2014 is available from 1st October 2014.
G-Star Raw Seasonal Highlights
Focusing on dark, chic and stylish denim, the G–Star Raw Fall/Winter collection offers a large range of men’s and womenswear in a sharp selection of coats and finishes.
Varying in textures, materials and styles, the collection comprises of classic G–Star pieces as well as modern interpretations of the denims. Sophisticated and elegant yet contemporary and edgy, the collection can be worn layered or alone to create a sleek and polished aesthetic.
Converse x Maison Martin Margiela
The second collaboration between Converse and French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela introduces Premium Leather Silhouettes to the Collection.
The iconic sneakers are given an over paint which loosens overtime to reveal a hidden and vivid colour ranging from Amber Glow and True Navy to Azure Blue and Biking Red. Elegant and edgy, the classic sneakers are made from soft, luxurious leather and also feature the discreet Maison Martin Margiela logo on the tongue.
Speaking on the sneaker, Maison Martin Margiela describes the collaboration as “The story of two like-minded brands continues with the evolution of the sneaker collection where personal expression is at the forefront, revealing the expression of vibrant colours shining through an incognito white coat that ages with time.” The collaboration fuses the contemporary with the classic to produce intriguing take on an archetypal shoe.
CHANEL Cruise 2015 collection
It was print and pattern extraordinaire at the Chanel Cruise 2015 show with mismatched and intriguing shapes and styles and all out artistry. Big hair and exquisite makeup flawlessly complimented the heavily embellished attire, producing an extravagant yet stylish look and a chic colour palette.
Daringly experimenting with shape, pattern and texture, the collection provided lavish holiday dresses, a mixture of glitzy precious and costume jewellery and tailored pieces emulating the classic Chanel suit.
Showcased in Dubai, the collection gave a theatrical essence and emanated luxury through metallic trousers, moon headdresses and beautifully crafted sarees. Models including Lindsey Wixon and Malaika Firth emulated princesses as they wore textured harem pants and all in one patchwork pieces.
Modern and fearless yet still adhering to a classic Chanel aesthetic, Lagerfeld has fused the modern with the classic and the Arabian with the elegant.
WOLFGANG JOOP launches Eyewear Collection
In time for a stylish summer, fashion label WUNDERKIND have launched a new online store that will present Wolfgang Joop’s sleek new eyewear collection.
Coming in four unique and equally chic models, each with individual colour combinations and creative styles, the sunglasses have individual names representing their original shape. Deriving from Wolfgang Joop’s print creations of current WUNDERKIND collections, the hand made and high quality sunglasses are an ultra-mod fuse of distinctiveness and elegance.
Available at the new WUNDERKIND online store and at all WUNDERKIND boutiques as well as an exclusive selection of shops and department stores worldwide, these cool yet classic sunglasses are available to everyone and can be found at www.wunderkind.com/shop.
Tiger of Sweden Fall/Winter 2014
Inspired by timeless rock and roll icons, the Tiger of Sweden AW14 collection epitomises a sleek yet edgy style that is polished without losing the rock and roll roots.
Offering a compromise between sophistication and spirit, the collection uses layering, exciting combinations and a neutral colour palette to create a distinctive and effortlessly thrown together aesthetic.
Seeking inspiration from Robert Redford's cult figure from the movie ‘Three Days of the Condor’, the seventies influenced menswear embodies this inspiration through heavily layered suits in brown, mustard yellow and black leather and tailored suits worn with long oversize overcoats and smart brogues.
The womenswear collection comprises of a balance between “classically feminine parts and a more pronounced leaner, more masculine silhouette”. Based on black, the colour palette incorporates more feminine tones of powder pink, light grey and deep turquoise and fuses minimalism with dynamism.
Established in 1903 and redefined in 1993, the traditional brand has reinvented itself to become a modern and exciting label that offers contemporary, sleek and stylish fashion for both men and women.
Armani/Casa 2014-2015 Collection
The creation of the Armani/Casa Exclusive Wallcoverings Collection is the collaboration between leading Italian furnishings company Jannelli&Volpi and fashion house Giorgio Armani that produces “a style of living and furnishing that expresses a sense of beauty.”
Offering a vast range of wall coverings, furnishings and decorations, the sophisticated compilation of designs add a characteristic elegance and cool refinement to a room and adheres to a minimalist yet welcoming aesthetic.
Comprising of a fresh colour palette ranging from warm beige, brown and grey to colder blue, light lime green and metallic grey, the designs provide crisp and refined household decorations that are simultaneously contemporary and traditional. With designs including shell motifs and geometric detailing, the collection is inspired by the Far East, nature and stones.
The sleek and innovative furnishings and wall coverings are available at all Armani/Casa stores worldwide as well as at authorized retailers.
PRADA Advertising Campaign April 2014
Effortlessly combining femininity and luxury, high end Italian fashion house Prada have launched their April 2014 fashion campaign. Starring sensational model Lexi Bolling, the campaign showcases the dazzling starlet nestling the classic and popular Prada Double bag as well as new styles.
Crafted in lavish yet supple leather, the bags are available in a contrasting array of colours including white, caramel, sand, yellow and red and provide a casual and stylish essential daytime accessory. Shot by Steven Meisel, the photographer depicts the bag as an extension of the model herself and a powerful “combination of skin and leather” and a lustrous “second skin on the model’s gamine silhouette”.
Displayed in natural calming day light and against an airy, cool white background, Lexi gazes alluringly into the camera’s lenses while the desirable PRADA bag sits effortlessly and elegantly on her lap to create a “simple and understated luxury”.
The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier from the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibition
French Fashion extraordinaire Jean Paul Gaultier will have an international exhibition dedicated to his life work that will allow us a vast insight into his remarkable fashion world. A notable name in the industry, Gaultier is known for his challenging approach to fashion and redefining the dress codes of masculinity and femininity.
The exhibition showcases the variety of world cultures which are amongst Gaultier’s most dominant inspirations and displays his most revolutionary work in an interactive and audio-visual form. From Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour costumes to the attire of the characters in Pedro Almodóvar and Luc Besson's The Fifth Element, the exhibition showcases Gaultier’s life work and wealth of collaborations in an interactive and theatrical format.
Inviting us to experience the world of Jean Paul Gaultier, the exhibition features around 140 haute couture and prêt-à-porter outfits as well as detailing the journey from sketches and inspirations to the fascinating runways, costumes and avant – garde designs that made his name inextricable with the fashion industry. The exhibition will be at the Barbican Centre from 9th April – 17th August.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2014
Grungy and gothic 90s it girl was cleaned up in Glenn Martens’ debut collection for fashion label Y/PROJECT Heavily layered, oversize and floor length pieces added an element of exaggeration to which Martens’ harmonised with clean, architectural lines and exciting, body hugging ruffles on sensual sheer dresses and tops. Modern, sleek and clean cut lines paired with ultra-fashionable all black ensembles adhered to grunge while white and grey pieces provided a sleek modernity.
The clothing epitomized versatility; oversize black bikers were thrown onto slim fitting dresses paired with black patent pumps, ruffled turtle necks combined with leather trousers and matching suits worn under uniquely cut coats. Stating that “Today a woman has to be adaptable, she has to be modern… be flexible in any situation and I think this collection tries to follow that.” Glenn Martens created a dark and sophisticated collection that complied with the desires of the contemporary woman by providing equilibrium between the laidback and the refined. He also experimented with texture, materials and cuts to add to the eccentricity of the collection while staying true to the brands urban lifestyle composition.
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Space like silhouettes mixed with fishing style thigh high green boots provided an interesting yet stylish combination at the Jean Paul Gaultier FW14 show during Paris fashion week. The just landed to earth from space theme continued with large headpieces, glitter leggings and metallic silver high boots before transcending into full blown dark silver space suits. London’s Punk rock scene was referenced with the amalgamation of tartan, Mohawks and leather. The collection continued to seek influence from London with large union jacks seen on bomber jackets, floating skirts, matching top and trouser combinations and short dresses.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Fur was the material of choice at Alexander McQueen’s deeply dark and mysterious FW14 show. Adhering to the inspiration of ‘wild beauty’ the show was set in a seemingly derelict and deserted garden and showcased large jet black oversize sweaters and coats with fur detailing around the edges. Extravagant all fur hooded coats with matching boots and black and white long fur coats were displayed on models with doll like white painted faces. The show finalized with a compilation of straight textured figure hugging dresses that scraped the floor, it was dramatic yet demure.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A Bohemian chic was fused with luxe glitzy glamour at the John Galliano FW14 show. Not a usual mix, but wearable and appealing all the same. Earthy tones were splashed onto jumpsuits, floaty dresses and structured, fur collared coats to give a day out in the countryside feel. This was accompanied with chic, uptown glamour represented through luscious velvet and sparkling floor length dresses. The styles clashed triumphantly.
Christophe Lemaire at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Strong utilitarianism was accompanied with soft knitted wool and a subtle elegance at the Christophe Lemaire FW14 show. The largely navy blue, cream and black colour palette combined with relaxed silhouettes to create a casual yet professional chic. The simple colours and clean cuts were mixed with the creative use of layering to produce a simple and classic collection.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Powerful, strong utilitarianism was presented with the signature intricate Balmain patterning and experimental combinations were worn alongside stripes of leopard print at the Balmain FW ’14 show. The collection was fearless in its obvious extravagance and daring in its combining of jungle style zebra and leopard prints with bright yellow and orange furs. Hip hop style was referenced through all black leather and gold hoop earrings and an inventive rope like texture was used to create unique dresses and tops.
Dries Van Noten - Inspirations, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs
Notable Belgium born fashion designer Dries Van Noten has assembled a collection of his fashion inspirations compiled from his 30 years as a designer in the industry. Dries Van Noten who comes from three generations of tailoring has created an exhibition entitled ‘Dries Van Noten Inspirations’ that explores how he works when it comes to creating his designs and the correlation between art and fashion. The experience provides an excursion into a fascinating creative mind and demonstrates the clash of styles that are present when it comes to drawing influence from various modes such as music, cultural citations and historical references. Stating that “fashion is more than just pretty clothes” Dries allows us to see the beauty of creating fashion through the use of over 400 pieces. The exhibition is about revealing, celebrating and sharing the creative process behind conceiving magnificent clothing and will run until 31st of August 2014 at Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris.
Day 4: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Simple, graceful structure was partnered with creative patterns and colour mixes to create the Bottega Veneta FW ’14 collection. The styles embodied strong femininity while referencing futuristic fashion with the use of graphic black and white prints. Deep purple and burgundy softened the clean lines and extravagant snakeskin bags added a luxurious flare.
Crisp whites, greys and light pastels were showcased alongside blacks, mustard yellows and deep turquoises to create an urbane appearance at the Jil Sander FW ’14 show. Sharply cut coats and straight and metallic dresses bared signature to Sander’s clean – cut aesthetic while the experimental colour palette provided a burst of excitement. Oversize jackets were paired with straight suit trousers and platform brogues to bring a new meaning to office chic while turtle neck sweaters and high waist skirts provided girly sophistication.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014-2015 creative director Andreas Melbostad took it's spectators on a futuristic Science Fiction journey. On first sight, the collection seemed to be inspired by cosmic space suits and Smart Wear, but on closer inspection the brands typical elements were eminent: denim and leather, accented by zippers, multiple buckles and mirrored metal discs. Dominated by a rather monochromic colour palette, metallic surfaces and silvery laquered fabrics perfectly matched with neoprene, quilted leather and lightweight jersey. But also the choice of classical materials such as merino wool and 'Prince of Wales‘ highlighted this marvelous collection.
'8 Pieces' by Claes Iversen
Claes Iversen is proud to present this season's graceful collection: '8 Pieces‘: a tribute to the brand's signature of authentic couture, the luxurious use of materials and an eye for detail. The eight looks are made of high quality fabrics in bright colours and tailored in fragile, female silhouettes. Elaborately embroidery techniques of beads, crystals and sequins are combined with laser-cutted plexiglass shapes and compose floral patterns.
Dior at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
On monday, at the Dior Haute Couture, Raf Simons focused on the idea of intimacy and showcased elaborately designed garments, in which he dealt with the 'idea of woman per se'. Even the location -a white modernist cave- showed the main idea of the show: soft curves and abstract sculptural expressions.
Speaking of delicacy of handwork, Simons designs had a complex, yet light and clean architectural approach, almost surrounding the bodys like organic shapes and adjusting to their movements. Silk, chiffon and delicate lace sybolized the intimacy of the female body. Chopped-out balloon cocktail dresses or volounious airy skirts were made of semi-transparent fabrics and embellished with repetitive patterns in white, black and pastel colours.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The dark and sober collection by Véronique Nichanian had more understated luxury than ever. Almost anonymous, the collection featured slim suits with simple tops and slouchy coats with set-ins of sleeve just balancing a little bit below the shoulder. Black leather and furry or shiny surfaces were reoccurring motifs, as was sport. Although the latter never took over the collection, touches could be found in hiking-boots, parka's and most decisive: a puffer jacket. In crocodile leather that is.
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mysterious as the fables by Jean de la Fontaine, the recent collection by Thom Browne veered between the animal and human. The first half of the collection consisted of Browne's trademarks like cropped tweed jackets and pants with the famous red-white-blue ribbon. Seemingly, he put all his imagination in the head dresses, designed by milliner Stephen Jones. Different types of hats depicted all sorts of animals, from elephants to mouses. The second half of the collection brought back Browne's showmanship in clothes. Like couture, the jackets and pants had an imaginative sensibility with broad shoulders and hips while the waist was kept slim. This made for a broad, regal silhouette, highlighted with leaf-prints and -appliqués.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Berlin-based menswear label SOPOPULAR took to the runway unveiling its fall/winter 2014/15 collection, aptly entitled ’X’. For the anniversary show designer Daniel Blechmann created 18 looks as a retrospective of seasons past and showcased his personal favorites, all adhering to the modern and severe aesthetic that has defined SOPOPULAR so far. Blechmann’s opening look is a manifest to the entire collection: a head-to-toe look in all black consisting of relaxed leather pants, a tank top as well as semi-transparent raglan long sleeve
A leather harness – exclusively designed for SOPOPULAR by designer Marina Hoermanseder – topped off the outfit. At the center of the collection are jackets and coats in manifold variations. Here, a loden cape in poignant army style deserves a commendation. When it comes to pants, SOPOPULAR updated classic cuts such as slim cigarette pants or straight-legged Marlene Dietrich style pants to fit smoothly fit the collection. The all-time favorite Dr. Martens completed each raucous look.
Henrik Vibskov at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Henrik Vibskov always has an array of ideas that he can easily distill into one collection. This Fall/Winter collection reunited nomadic hats, round shoulders, florals, ethnic decorations and much more in a collection that remained consistent from beginning to end. The use of a mesh-nylon material made it easy to create volume while staying light, another technical endeavor was the fabric that looked like origami-folding on shorts and ponchos.
Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Maison Martin Margiela focused on wearable and sober clothing with subtle twists. Slightly slouchy grey suits had pants with double hems and coats were fastened with suspenders when worn over the shoulder. Big knits were teamed up with even bigger furs and there was a sense of wrapping and folding in the collection. MMM wouldn't do right to there name if they didn't include some decomposing and reassembling with diving-gear, thick tent-like canvas and leather satchels.
Rick Owens at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rick Owens practically invented a new type of garment in his fall/winter 2014 collection. This garment can best be described as a hybrid of a romper and a dress. It was suprisingly elegant on a man's body, especially when worn with big shantung scarf wrapped around the neck and chunky high boots. The collection started with deep brown leathers, suedes and cotons and later verged into blackness, never forgetting the head dresses that gave a slight religious undertone. The silhouette was quite broad with a lot of sleeveless tops and wide shorts. This all finished with the savageness that Rick Owens is known for.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Valentino's head-designers Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pierpaolo Piccioli talked about their idea to bring a nonchalant and comfortable influence to their luxurious menswear. The shownotes explain: “Private becomes public and vice versa.” Which resulted in pajamas' in pinstripes or tweeds and big winter coats that feel like robes. The core of the Valentino-brand remains the tradition of Haute Couture and that even manifests itself in the menswear collections. As relaxed as some jackets and coats dance around the body, so much work goes into the inner workings of the garment, balancing it just right on the shoulder. This not only gives a feeling of craftsmanship to the wearer, but also reinforces the idea of comfort and homeliness. That also explains the rug-like materials for some coats and the luscious knits. Quirky details like an owl on the back with wings reaching over the shoulders took the collection out of the house and into the woods. And for that the Valentino-man has a decadent fishers hat.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At John Varvatos, looks are fearless, confident and as usual influenced by Varvatos passion for Rock' n' Roll. So of course Kiss, in the main soundtrack accompanied his muses, when they pranced down the runway. John‘s leather looks were mainly black, often in shimmery shades, combined with white suits. Throughout the edgy spirit, elegancy is not getting lost.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At Versace, looks are young, free, provocative and unafraid. Under the theme 'The biker is the new cowboy‘, unbridled masculinity will dominate Fall/Winter 2014. Leather pants, fur motorcycle jackets and silk shirts are embellished with wild fanciful prints and appliqué patches showing the classic Versace hardware. Key chains, sheriff badges, motorbike helmets and charm bracelets underlined the new spirit. 'I wanted this collection to be a celebration of individuality and the freedom to be whoever you want to be, in the face of all the oppression in the world right now', says Donatella Versace.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Jil Sander showcased a delciate and subtle collection playing with the senses of structure, surface movement and colour. It almost begs the viewer to touch it‘s shimmery fabrics and promises a haptic experience. On the contray, purple cashmere sweaters with geometric knits create a rather flattering atmosphere. This season‘s tailoring resembles to well-known Jil Sander aesthetics: silhouettes are neat. Boxy jackets on top of slim cutted cigarettes pants dominate numerous looks.
Lou Dalton & Astrid Andersen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2014
As designer Lou Dalton has established herself as a starlet of British Menswear, no other than her was destined to open the first day of festivities at London Collections: Men. Alongside punk-inspired streatwear elements and chic tailored suit jackets, her creations were built on the inspiration of her grandfather’s farm and it‘s workers. Lou Dalton‘s signature of contemporary classicism and refined tailoring got crossed by pieces in acid-pink denim.
Astrid Andersen Fall/Winter 2014
Only four years after Astrid Anders graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Art MA course, the successful Danish designer for Fall/Winter 2014 hit the zeitgeist with a modern, luxurious street style collection. Sticking to her use of exclusive fabrics, the line was based on shiny satin's, laces and faux furs. The 'Astrid' branding emblazoned hoodies,T-shirts and underlined the graphical demand that make all of her collections unique. Other key elements were asymmetric strapless and cropped tops. Down Jackets and silver chains gave the final finish and a slight 90ies spark.
Kaviar Gauche 'Fleur De Force'
Since in 2004 Johanna Kuhl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler created their unique style, it's not possible to imagine the fashion universe without Kaviar Gauche's femine designs. With the delicate yet strong collection 'Fleur De Force' the Berlin-based fashion label welcomed the Spring/Summer season 2014. The two charming founders for this occasion chose the St. Agnes church in Berlin, Kreuzberg to present the collection and show it in a rather minimalistic and industrial ambience. A light installation rotating to the rhythm of 'Einstein on the beach' by Phillip Glass graced the show with artificial golden sunlight and underlined it's cool and antagonistic spirit.
The collection is influenced by floral and contrasting graphic elements dominated by warm and light-beige colours, besides silver-grey combined with the classic Kaviar Gauche shades, such as ivory and black. In addition to the mix of silk, organza and leather, the line features the modern laser cut in blossom shapes. Next to the ready-to-wear collection the designer duo showcased dresses of the Bridal Couture 2014 putting the focus on the opulent Pavot dress, made of silk laces. In the selection of suitable accessories the exclusive garments find a final conclusion.
Ermenegildo Zegna's L.A. Global Store
To celebrate the opening of it's new global boutique on Rodeo Drive, the luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna hosted an exclusive soiree at the new designed three floor Concept store. Italian fashion designer and Zegna's Creative Head, Stefano Pilati showcased an impressive preview of the Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection, including mohair suits, wool gabardine jackets and floral jacquard knits. As always focusing on success, excellence and craftsmanship, the now available selection in the store dedicates to Italian high-quality heritage and ranges from clothing to accessories and fragrances, and from formalwear to sportswear, made of exclusive materials that have distinguished Zegna for over a century now.
The Beverly Hills boutique was designed by renowned architect Peter Marino and creates an extravagant ambiance, dominated by brownish, earthy and golden beige shades. The interior designs of the boutique echo the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style and enrich the visual shoppong experience in store, accompanied by a chic VIP room in the top floor devoted to personal shopping.Invited guests, such as legendary actress Sharon Stone and musician Gavin Rossdale, enjoyed a unique dinner and cocktail night at the JF Chen design gallery, and experienced the new creative concept behind the campaign Eminences Grises, shot by the two renowned photographers Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Under the artistic direction of Pilati the campaign images have been set up in the event space and marked another highlight of the opening.
The new global store is located on 337 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.
NEIGHBORHOOD for Converse Sneaker
NEIGHBORHOOD, the exclusive lifestyle denim brand from Tokyo and Converse presented their first joint project, the first String Holiday 2013 collection, through adding a slight Japanese touch to the most two well-known Converse classics. When the Japanese clothing brand was founded in 1994 by Shinsuke Takizawa, NEIGHBORHOOD immediately succeeded with their motorcycle culture inspired designs, which also gets visible in this very unique collection. Combining classic Converse DNA with the Japanese brand's own vision, the two iconic staples are processed with high quality materials: the Jack Purcell Johnny Mid, made of deep petrol blue leather with tonal stitching and the All Star Chuck '70 Ox realized in a blue suede, both with white midsoles and toe-caps.
The First String's Premium sneaker collection is available in selected Converse retailers across the globe since the 1st of November 2013. For more information visit
Azzedine Alaïa and Women
By Ria de Borja
Alaïa, an exhibit chronicling the designer’s career and influence in fashion, recently opened at Palais Galliera, musée de la mode de la ville de Paris. The exhibit goes through the designer’s history, designs, techniques, inspirations - and his penchant for women, including famous actresses. Azzedine Alaïa was born in Tunisia and attended the country’s École des Beaux-arts. “I used to spend my nights oversewing dresses for a local dressmaker in order to pay for my school equipment. I learned the different stitches by doing my sister Hafida’s sewing exercises because she wasn’t very keen on manual skills,” says Alaïa in the exhibition catalogue. Soon after, the designer finished his studies and was encouraged to move to Paris by a family friend.
“The designers who have made a lasting impression on the history of fashion are those who have concentrated on celebrating and liberating the body. Of all contemporary creators, it is Alaïa who has best embodied this spirit since the 1980s, using precise seams and darts to produce a silhouette that has become his hallmark,” says Olivier de Saillard, director of the Galliera museum and the exhibit’s curator. “He drew inspiration from the spirited style and arrogance of personalities like Arletty and Louise de Vilmorin.”
Alaïa met the French actress Arletty in Paris in 1960. “She’s the one who gave me the idea of making skin-tight dresses. She was used to adjusting the volume of her skirt with a pin. ‘It falls too well, she used to say. It has to be skewed somewhere.’” Towards 1971, he was inspired by Greta Garbo: “She came with a friend, Cécile de Rothschild, and wanted me to make a very full- bodied coat. I remember some fitting sessions and measuring sessions. The coat was never big enough for her taste.
At a time when everything was tight- fitting, the 1970s, I had to make an immense, navy-blue coat for her, with turned- up sleeves. In the 1980s and 1990s, I often presented huge coats with generous shoulders, a definite nod to Garbo, to her inimitable and avant-gardist style.” When he met Louise de Vilmorin, he was further schooled in fashion: “Meeting her I realized that Parisian chic was all about the little details. One evening when Louise de Vilmorin was supposed to go to a dinner, she asked me to help her put the finishing touches to her outfit.
She remembered that she had seen a concierge wearing a cardigan from a department store like Prisunic so we bought it. We replaced the buttons with something more elaborate in metal and put a long ordinary chain around her neck that she rolled up and plunged into a pocket. It was a demonstration in just a few seconds of her inimitable sense of style, and she got a lot of envious looks that evening.” Over the course of his career, the designer has created collections that include leather or waxed fabrics perforated with eyelets, skirts laced at the back, metal zippers running from the neckline to the hemline, tight and structured leather suits, seamed stretch jersey dresses, leather tube dress with asymmetrical folds revealing the naked skin, stretch jersey hood dresses and coats with hood collars and reversible boleros with strips of mink. “Alaïa fashioned a new body, like a sculptor working with muslin and leather. Inventing new shapes out of simple interplay between complex stitchings, Alaïa became the creator of a timeless body of work. His influence on today’s fashion is fundamental,” says Saillard.
In 1986, Alaïa presented Naomi Campbell in her first fashion show (she was 16). “Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa, Veronica Webb, Stephanie Seymour, Marie-Sophie Wilson, I am grateful to them all for accompanying me through all the research and the long posing, fitting and tweaking sessions. If I don’t have models before my eyes I have no ideas. I need to see their bodies near me,” says the designer. He acknowledges the profound influence women have had on him: “I have never followed fashion. Women have always dictated my behaviour. I make clothes, women make fashion.”
Onitsuka Tiger's ‘My Town My Tracks'
Sports lifestyle brand Onitsuka Tiger takes on Tokyo's diverse backstreets for Fall/Winter 2013. In ‘My Town My Tracks' three natives explore their urban lifestyles and neighborhoods. Through the power of images and film the juxtaposition of this modest and outgoing, quirky and elegant culture, which is the birthplace of Onitsuka Tiger, is related. British photographer Laurence Ellis snapped Asami, a barista and actress in the hip Shimokitazawa district, artist Que, while wandering around counterculture hub Kichijoji, and Chris - the third local - cycling around Nakameguro, a quiet residential area.
The trio showcases models from the upcoming, running-inspired street collection through 1,000 candid Instagram photos, which can be seen on Onitsuka Tiger’s official Instagram profile, @onitsukatigerhq. Throughout this personal city tour, the ULT-RACER and HARANDIA take center stage. Both shoes are inspired by the brand’s running heritage. The HARANDIA features performance technology and will go down in Onitsuka Tiger’s history as its first shoe to feature GEL technology, for extra cushioning and comfort, all the while. As a special gimmick, it’s the brand’s first shoe to have Onitsuka Tiger written on the heel tab in Japanese.
The other shoe featured - the ULT-RACER - is a modern interpretation of the ULTIMATE 81, which was one of the brand’s most famous running shoes in the 80s. Sleek nylon, a chunky sole and herringbone rubber pattern make this a great allrounder for everyday explorations. Both models come in seven combinations as well as three specifically female fits.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 Miu Miu adorned the runway with exclusive garments hitting the spirit of the swinging sixties. Miuccia Prada sent out retro looking coats with big buttons, fringe-beaded dresses in a range of vivid and pastel colours. Wool tights were combined with twin set tops and patent leather skirts in pastel colours.Cuts and shapes were slightly remininding of schoolgirl uniforms.Wild patterns and prints of ornaments showing birds, cats and flowers highlighted fluffy coats. Paying attention to those eye-catching details, the collection was playful, girlish yet sophisticated and feminine, what in other words defines Miu Miu as an extravagant brand.
Wunderkind at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Spring/ Summer 2014 collection was a prelude to celebrate individualism and free thinking as if there is nothing left to loose. Inspired by the wild flair of the 70ies, stunning floral dresses with floating silhouettes, high-waisted hotpants and fringed leather jackets underlined the main theme and created an effortless and liberated spirit, that shouldn‘t be missing at an un- forgettable performance. Chiffon garments in acid colours and vibrant prints, next to sporty leggings made of transluscent fabrics and elements of baseball tricots completed this energetic and charismatic ambience and added a touch of youthness.
22/4_femmes at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Stephanie Hahn, the designer of 22/4_femmes, has her roots in pattern making, which makes her a gem of know how in the middle of superficial big ideas. The way she cuts a shoulder on her new T-shirt is only one example of the way Hahn structures and controls a fabric. For Spring/Summer 2014, the designer looked at Jazz Age tennis player Suzanne Lenglen, resulting in a minimal, sportive collection without neglecting the feminine. Relaxed silhouettes with big striped trousers and shirts were vamped up with brazeers in the same fabric. As Lenglen, also known as „the Divine“, never wore an underskirt while playing, an exercise in transparency gave the collection depth and light.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Jil Sander‘s performance on fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was straightforward, linear and dominated by precise cuts. After the german fashion designer has left the brand twice and now is back, this Spring/Summer 2014 feels liberated and relaxed, perhaps because Sander now has finally arrived. According to be the “Queen of less“, the show demonstrated, that less sometimes is more. Being loyal towards her standards and principles, this collection was “Joyful Serenity“ and minimalism par excellence. Made of a combination of simple shapes and unique materials, Sander has showcased stunning garments, highlighted by her pure style elements, she is being adored for. Belly tops and midi skirts gave a shimmer of youthness, slightly wide capri pants and buttonless blazers added some elegant key notes, all in a rather restrained colour palatte.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2014 show was inspired by the spirit of nature and flaunted with modern qualities. Rippling water reflections and shadows on plants glazed on exclusive garments, in juxtaposition to floral patterns and imaginative, abstract watercolour illustrations. Shadows of tropical flowers in a colour palette of pale blues, greens, grays and dawn pinks completed the whole appearance.
Casual outfits included a range of double-pleat and widly-cutted pants and leggings that covered the skin like a tattoo. Flowing jackets in glossy and monochrome looks and elementary shapes, next to sleeveless silk dresses conjured a symbolic modernity accessorized with colour-matching clutches and handbags.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi showcased a collection dominated by gaudy, graphic and geometric patchwork prints and floral patterns. Being well known for hand crafted effects and precise cuts, the designer duo draped feminine and sporty dresses, skirts and parkas with vibrant silhouettes.
A pink glaze on the runway harmonized with pastel pink and blue colour palette, as well as strong neon pinks and yellows. Remaining true to the Rave spirit Preen is known for, second phase of the show brought up numerous futuristic looking pieces made of transparent high- tech fabrics, semi- sheer plastic raincoat textures and metallic foil.
Calvin Klein at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Speaking the language of minimalism and innovation, Francisco Costa, who is Creative Director for Clavin Klein since 10 years now, put on the final run at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Simple, oversized and unfinished looking pieces gave an industrial, experimental look.
Knee lenght skirts, on top oversized tops and wide-strap dresses were made of unique fabrics like woven snakeskin, silk and multicoloured yarn. Inspired just by a simple boys‘ T-Shirt and potato bags, Francisco experimented on taking apart, fringing and fraying his exclusive fabrics, that were dominated by white, bright sandy and black colours.
Hervé Léger by Max Azira, Mara Hoffman, Lacoste, Jill Stuart at NYFW
Third day at the New York Fashion Week brought up a number of remarkable styles. Designer Max Azira showcased his collection of pieces for Hervé Léger with geometrical printed patterns, sharp silhouettes, combined with leather pieces and added zippers. The show was accompanied by strong dynamic drum rhythms and thrilling beats.
Hervé Léger Spring/ Summer 2014
Mara Hoffman Spring/ Summer 2014
Continuing in Lacoste’s efforts to keep a certain contemporary look - Oliveria Baptista created remarkable pieces with a slight touch of sportswear. He sticks to the old image of tennis courts in strong colours such as clay browns, rosy beiges and dusty pastels.
Lacoste Spring/ Summer 2014
Last but not least speaking of Jill Stuart -who opened the show with a high waisted black skirt and a rounded shoulder top - is bringing back the seventies.
Jill Stuart Spring/ Summer 2014
New Mulberry Bayswater Shoulder Bag
It is surely a testament to design when an accessory comes to be a celebrity in itself; sacrosanct and scrutinised by an adoring public, Mulberry’s Bayswater bag is just that – a cult style staple that is at once practical and ever en vogue. Though change is in the air this Fall/Winter, as a handsome adaptation of the label’s dearest descendant is sure to cause quite a stir among disciples and decriers alike.
Effortless and unassuming, the new Bayswater Shoulder bag is very much the cooler, cultured cousin to Mulberry’s iconic original – insouciant and bare but for its enviable quantities of uncalculated chic. Exquisitely crafted leathers case its humble frame, streamlined to its classic and quintessential components. In Autumnal hues of taupe, crimson, plum and midnight blue, the superb grain of the polished skins comes to surface, from grainy calf and goat hides, to tactile lizard prints. Alongside this novel addition to the lineage, is the Bayswater Double Zip Tote; a distinguishable relation to its ancestor, but reworked, this time with an optimised layout, made possible by a zipped compartment layout. All the while, dependably present is the charming motif of the classic Bayswater – or, rather, any Mulberry handbag worth its salt – in the form of its plated postman’s lock – a Royal seal, if ever there were one. Only one element is sure to stay consistent to such a tumultuous collection: it won’t be long before the Bayswater Shoulder is seen to be a pin-up in its own right.
Available online and in stores as part of the Fall/Winter 13 Main Collection
Ralph Lauren to Restore École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts
The École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris has acquired worldwide recognition as an institution to nurse such masters of design as Valentino Garavani and Hubert de Givenchy. Artists, too, have flourished under its coaching, with Degas, Marisse and Monet all walking through its magnificent doors. It's pertinent, then, that one of the greatest designers of our time has pledged to honor its two-year restoration by funding several millions of dollars towards the project.
The campus buildings date back to the 17th century, and house a 90-foot mural by French painter, Paul Delaroche.The historic semicircular lecture theatre that forms the heart of the school will be renovated with stadium-like seating and top-of-the-range audio-visual equiptment. It's cobblestone courtyard, meanwhile, will undergo significant work as part of the plans, which, once completed, will host a gala dinner and Fall/Winter catwalk show by Lauren on October 8th, making his first European show.
Prada Marks 100th Anniversary with Galleria Restoration Project
Setting up shop in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 1913, Mario Prada – father of the legendary fashion house – opened the first of many Prada boutiques under the roof of Milan's most spectacular shopping mall. A neo-classical landmark, the ornate architecture of its breathtaking façade is all part of the romance in the Prada story.
In fitting commemoration to its centenary, Prada plan to reinforce its roots with an extensive restoration of an entire quadrant of the Galleria, opening onto its historic central intersection and adjacent to its current residence. The Prada Galleria was waved in by the launch of a new dedicated menswear store.
At 400m², it occupies not even a tenth of the proposed development, saving room for more sales space, event areas, a restaurant, an exhibition hall for contemporary art under the Prada Foundation and brand headquaters. The ambitious renovation will encompass a thorough reworking of the vicinity, from interior layout to its outer structure, sculpting a complex for culture, business and lifestyle in the heart of the city, and under the magnificent roof of a monumental Milanese fixture.
Claes Iversen Spring/Summer 2014
Known not for its tropical summers, Amsterdam nonetheless delivered a ray of sunshine at this season's fashion week in the form of the Claes Iversen show, inspired by the city's showery climate.
The banana-yellow ouverture said it all: a satirical displacement of a classic's typical context. Hooded macs cropped up throughout the collection, severed and layered or thrown suggestively over bare legs. Raincoats weren't the only pieces to face the chop; hemlines teased, courting thigh and floor with their sheer promiscuity, though tailored cuts and long fitted sleeves translate sensuality into sophistication.
Chiffon singlets were cinched into banded waists, rising as maxi-skirts or breezy palazzos flaring to a splaying umbrella line. All the while lengthy fringes were raining down in washed pastels, hailing unexpected embellishments as erratically as the weather.
Iceberg Celebrate 400th Anniversary of Amsterdam's Canals
This year the city of Amsterdam celebrates the 400th anniversary of its characteristic Canal Ring. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the canals will play host to jubilant commemoration throughout 2013. One such reveller is the sportswear label Iceberg, whose Ice Iceberg store finds home on the city's legendary shopping street, PC Hoofstraat.
Iceberg climbled aboard the aptly named Juliana flat bottom boat, – a fitting tribute to Gilmar founder, Giuliana Marchini Gerani – before sailing down the Herengracht Canal to the Munttoren Tower, soaking up the bounty of sights on offer from the charming aspect of the water.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring/Summer 2014
It's not often that a designer can pull off 'sailor' without pieces looking caricatures of their influences. Though that's exactly what Boris Bidjan Saberi has accomplished with his latest Spring/Summer collection. Perhaps that's because his eye has always been close to the source; penned from his seaside workshop, maritime garments find new function in the modern man's wardrobe, pooling in the weather-beaten folds of slouched silhouettes.
Ropey knits in murky off-whites bear the industrial scuffs of hard labour, underwritten by the utilitarian buckled fastenings of cropped life jackets. Waxed cotton sweaters are somehow made unspeakably modern, layering light jerseys and oversized pants etched in grainy graphic prints.
Boat sails are reworked to breathe authenticity into hooded cloaks, their original seams still visible so as not to mask character. Yellow waders and fishermen jackets are tailored to question the possibilities of function, narrated by removable sleeved jackets, adjustable length pants and an integrated backpack vest.
Stripes, too, are redefined, their identity chanellenged as they struggle to keep in line on asymmetric cuts. In a palette of worn whites and greying navy, marine wear, here, evades the obvious by all possible costs.
Laurèl Spring/Summer 2014
Elisabeth Schwaiger creates high quality pieces from leather, silk and jersey. For Laurèl's spring/summer 2014 collection she drew inspiration from Asia's aesthetic language. As a result, the designs are modern, urban and infused with exotic impressions. The color palette for spring/summer 2014 is framed in black and white with a vibrant impressionist print in and strong one-pieces in turqoise or purple. The Asian influence adds a relaxed touch to the smart clothes, which are suitable for all occasions from the office to the beach.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Salon Show Spring/Summer 2014 Green Showroom
Sustainability is growing ever more important in fashion and the green showroom during Berlin Fashion Week provides a platform for sustainable labels. At the salon show 20 brands showcased 54 looks from avant-garde designs to delicate silk dresses and fine blouses as well as all the way to accessories. Among the labels were renowned designers such as Lanius or Elsien Gringhuis and Swiss label Royal Blush by Jana Keller / Johanna Riplinger, who employ plant-based treatments for the leather and organic salmon they use -all made locally. Their collection is simple, reduced and puristic. For a more rock 'n' roll vibe, designer Aleks Kurkowski combines straight forward, avant-garde designs with relaxed urbanity and the essential thought of sustainability. Once again, the show proofed that fashion and awareness can create something beautiful.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg
For the fifth year running, Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and Fashion ID have awarded the 'Designer for Tomorrow' award during MBFWB. As a visible platform for creativity, it gives up- and coming talents the opportunity to present their designs. This year's patron Stella McCartney helped mentor the finalists and gave them advise ahead of their showcase. The five designers were Katy Clark, Jamie Wei Huang and Ioana Ciulacu Miron from the UK as well as Hannah Kuklinski and Annalena Skörl Maul from Germany. With her collection 'Paradox', Ioana Ciulacu Miron took the award. For her it is all about contrasts. Her creations are soft and flowing, appear structured and feminine while simultaneously expressing a masculine strength. A diversity of materials like wool, plastic, chiffon and even plastic foam fuse in quite extraordinary unity. The prints on the pieces kept in subdued color were all hand-drawn by the designer herself. Having won over the jury and the audience, Ioana is 2013's 'Designer for Tomorrow'.
Patrick Mohr Spring/Summer 2014
The injustice of humanity is a tricky subject to broach at the best of times. Through a fashion collection, however, the challenge grows near insurmountable. But where others see impossibility, Patrick Mohr sees an obstacle to be conquered.
The presentation of Mohr's Spring/Summer collection was unorthadox, to say the least. But then again, who could expect anything less? Succinctly entitled Human, the line takes an avant-garde take on couture, fusing with streetwear to evoke the idea that we are all equal.
Beautiful models were made repugnant by beards and monobrows, while society's most marginalised were pushed to the forefront, taking to the stage in Mohr's thought-provoking designs. Disabled, Body-building and transgender mannequins sported baggy printed vests and T-shirts – a tired pair of eyes staring as its sole motif. With unfinished seams, the look was poignantly run-down.
White dresses were magnificently pure; folded crisply and escaping all embellishment, they were a testament to artful restraint. In thick plain bolts, they skirted – even lined the floors, their fantastic immaculacy stripping down an aesthetic to a utilitarian skeleton.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall 2013
Few people do couture like Jean Paul Gaultier. His affinity with provocative excess brands him a soulmate for the season, often shamelessly themed and always a little decadent.
Flamboyance, as custom, knew no bounds – a conclusion that could be made from the very first look, through the chunky tufts of fur and layers of leopard-skin. Hair too, was skinned in spots – statuesque and towering heads brazenly with the callous confidence of a cavewoman.
Color palette made a surreptitiously subdued entrance, but fooled noone into thinking this would be a show made of strictly natural hues. After all, it is Jean Paul Gaultier. While sandy browns kept quiet, inflated shapes made a cacophonous bang – chunky quilting piped volume in lines and tapered pants grew pockets so accommodating they became closer cousins to harems.
Velvets, feathers and furs ran with the raucous sense of feminine pride bestowed by Gaultier, amplified by bejewelling tones of piercing green and electrifying fuchsia. His characteristically crafted impression of the female form, meanwhile, did not go overlooked. Puffa-like piping etched the distinguishing features of the bustier, cinching waists and rounding at the hips, deciding whether to tulip or flare. Lavish it may have been, but limitless it most definitely was.
Sissi Goetze Spring/Summer 2014
The spring/summer 2014 collection had a 1990s hip-hop feel to it. Visors are the hot weather update of Sissi Goetze’s somewhat signature accessories: the cap. Since a man in shorts is super relaxed, Sissi Goetze made loose-cut, shiny black drawstring shorts. The focus of the collection is on black and denim materials. Aside from cropped pants, Sissi Goetze has men in layered, overlapping clothes next summer. Color choices for spring/summer 2014 range from light blue to safari style camel. The designer’s unconventional approach to contemporary menswear is a nod to every man’s inner rascal.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
MALAIKARAISS Spring/Summer 2014
Amidst the hyped New Objectivity, MALAIKARAISS spring/summer 2014 collection found itself between the purism, extravagance and wearability. Pleated collars, asymmetric features and contrasting lining added intrigue to the designs. For next summer, Malaika Raiss played with different length seems, varying textures and see through elements. Her fabrics of choice are silk, soft leather and knit which made for fun pieces such as berry colored leather shorts or an easy, see through maxi dress in light rose.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Fendi for Fountains
Roman by birth, the Fendi fashion house is to pay gratitude to its heritage by funding a major restoration of Rome's ancient fountains, including the Trevi Fountain and the Quattro Fontane complex. Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi has sourced illimitable inspiration from the city, and hope to pay tribute to both its striking beauty and historical identity through the preservation project.
“Rome is eternal, therefore, there is no better place: Rome has changed and has not changed,” said Karl Lagerfeld, who has been head designer and creative director of the brand since 1965, marking the longest collaboration between a designer and fashion house. Lagerfeld, who claims to have visited Rome over 740 times, has also photographed the most iconic fountains of the city, ready to showcase in an exhibition entitled The Glory of Water.
Running from July 4th-14th in Rome's sister city of Paris, the exhibition will be displayed in five domes, symbolic of Rome's iconic cupolas. The Glory of Water is to make history as the largest ever display of daguerreotypes, as fifty prints will exploit the now nearly extinct traditional processing technique. Upheld for its mirror-like realism, daguerreotype printing is now only practiced by 6 master printers around the world, and the history of the technique will make a dedicated feature at the exhibition. The event promises a multi-sensory environment, with photographs accompanied by the music of Vivaldi, contemporary digital compositions and the sounds of the water from the fountains themselves. By the Ponte Alexandre III on the banks of the Seine, its showing will coinside with the opening of Fendi's new boutique, its Maison moving from number 22 to 51 Avenue Montaigne.
The 600m² store was designed with the vision of femininity in mind; bathed in soft bronze lighting, an abundance of rich textures - from velvet and leather to natural stone – form the curves of the space. In tune with Fendi's Roman roots, walls are covered in travertine plates, clad to enhance the height of the vertical structure. The ground floor will host an installation surrounding the iconic Baguette bag, where a wall pierced with 30, 000 bronze needles will display the different styles, representative of the craftsmanship behind their fur pieces. Here too, will be a made-to-order service space, where bags from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag can be customised to a unique specification of colors, leathers and finishes, while the Haute Fourrure room above will allow clients to create bespoke fur items.
Perhaps most exciting about Fendi's contribution to the project, is another kind of restoration, this time of the film Histoire d'Eau by Jacques de Bascher. Shot in 1977 and starring Suzie Dyson, Bascher's eighteen-minute piece gave way to the concept of the fashion film, intended to present Karl Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear and fur collection for Fendi. The story of a young woman who travels to Rome, she bathes in the city's fountains, stowing their water in glass vials. Her parents, meanwhile, believe her to be holidaying at a Spa in Baden-Baden. The last shot depicts the woman transformed into a mannequin, standing in the window of the Fendi boutique – the jars of water drawn from the fountains of Rome lined behind her. And so the restoration gives truth to its name: Rome really is the Eternal City.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014
Thom Browne's spectacular presentations are always a highlight on the menswear calendar and his presentation for spring/summer 2014 was no exception. The collection balanced between the super masculine and the super feminine, the masculine part being the navy with their broad-shouldered and heavy-armed costumes and hats and the feminine in details like laced corset-backs, crinoline hips and lacquered fabrics. There was an air of fetishism in the way the models wore the silhouettes with high heels and red lipstick with a tough attitude. If you want to see them, there were lots of political messages in the collection; maybe gays in the army or the perception of what is feminine or masculine. But above all, these were clothes crafted with immaculate attention to detail and a lot of ideas to distill.
Cerruti 1881 Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Spring/Summer 2014 collection by Cerruti 1881 was presented in a modern tent in the courtyard of a very old Parisian townhouse. This was quite a good metaphor for the collection, which combined traditional tailoring with modern ideas. All garments were quintessentially classic; suits, shirts, overcoats and trenchcoats but most of them had a twist to them. The opening coats for instance were so light and fluid that with their length they almost looked ethnic, like a Moroccan djebella. Also new was the internal band attached at the chest in some jackets that was pulled over the other panel of the jacket to give it a completely new sillhouette.
Rick Owens Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Out of the darkness, bandmembers arived on the catwalk rather than models at the Rick Owens show. Shortly after came a installation twirling the band's drummers around while performing. The clothing of the collection was in line with this exciting performance with lots of black, leather and strings dancing around the models. Last season, Rick brought his man back to the street and this season he continued this path. The most precise example of that are the sneakers he designed with Adidas, that were finally presented to the public.
Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The great designer of melancholia and poetic sensibility, Ann Demeulemeester, outed a emotional collection full of greatly cut jackets and shorter pants. She started with a couple of white looks delicately embroidered with black patterns. Later on the collection took on colors like dusty pink and dark purple that gave the collection more depth, but never made it heavy. The collection had a victorian air but it was kept modern with light cottons and fluid silks. The models wore subtle black make-up around their eyes to highlight both the rocker and the poet that is the Ann Demeulemeester man.
Missoni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Missoni held its own this season with its tawny marl knits. Skinny-cut suits in all varieties of biscuit beige swept down the runway, primary red standing as the most alarming punctuation to a taupe camouflage. Stripes recurred, as did zigzag – this time unassuming in hushed tones. Shawl-collared knits lent a touch of femininity, but brutish beards took it all away.
Like luggage stickers plastered across a battered leather valise, patchwork prints edged with trimmings left the hallmark of the nomad. Drawstring pouches, too, dangled from necks like that of a wandering shaman – Missoni’s designs the handsome remedy.
Marni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer at Marni gave us a touch of the trainspotter; all anoraks and flasher macs – a look which is at once smart and scuffed. Oversized raincoats swamp the pencil-frame lent by slim cigarette pants, with skinny ties elongating yet further. Chelsea boots mark the footprint of '60s London. Come to mention it, the look would not seem altogether out of place were it sported by Jimmy Cooper in Quadrophenia.
Checkerboard shirts – more 2 tone than Mod – tuck half-heartedly into schoolboy shorts, buttoned up neatly to the collar as if in ironic jest. Tailoring is as sharp as it always was on Carnaby Street, still in tonic fabrics but color-blocking makes it current. Print is an alien force, speckled few and far between a line that is squarely minimalist. Marni may have gone back in time to deliver this collection, but pieces sit firmly in the future of Spring/Summer.
Vivienne Westwood Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
So the spirit of the libertine made it onto the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood - what else is new? Perhaps a topical political statement will suffice. The heart of the collection’s theme, Truth, was not just worn on its sleeves, but rather fully emblazoned sandwich-board style across the chest. Printed T-shirts carried a stencilled impression of uniformed soldier Bradley Manning, an alleged source to the WikiLeaks scandal. Not worlds apart in style from the emblematic image of Che Guevara, both icon and models who bore it donned berets fit for battle. The medium may have been subtle, but the message was strong.
Westwood, by her very nature, likes to shine a light on the side-lined. All the while being radical, the line was designed to cater to the eclectic tastes of the bohemian traveller; think breathable linens and a penchant for print. Heritage checks fused with harems, but just when you thought designs were headed for tradition, pieces would throw out a host of contradictions. Silk cummerbunds were swapped for boxer-bearing jean, and neckerchiefs dressed up but deconstruction tore down: vive la revolution, vive Westwood.
Mulberry Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Can Mulberry help but conjure a wonderfully whimsical campaign? With Tim Walker in tow, it would be foolish to expect anything otherwise. Oxfordshire's Shotover House provided the aristocratic setting, made all the more magical by the other half of Walker's imagination: set designer Shona Heath.
Framed by a typically period setting, doll's house trimmings are the perfect partner for the porcelain features of model Cara Delevigne – a quality only further accentuated by her stoic air.
Crooked branches creep eerily into frame – a homely haunt for the wildlife of the woodland – tipped by shrinking buds and starkly bare twigs. Camel and oxblood take preppy cuts, reflected by its Oxfordshire setting. Leather and black stir a sombre concoction, whilst all-white puritan shapes radiate with a deceptively angelic snowy gleam. Played out to its sole spectators, the story is cloaked in supple merlot leather, like a faded fairytale.
Only walker could make innocence so haunting; only Mulberry could dress the tone.
Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2014
They say absence makes the heart grow fonder. If anything could illustrate the truth of such a statement, it would be the unanimous fervor surrounding Stefano Pilati's return to the runway this menswear season. The move from YSL to Zegna could be considered something of a quantum leap, and a contrast that was not wasted on Pilati, who appeared to take advantage of the unshackled color palette.
Gone was the severity of yore, ushered out by taupes and hunter greens. Black did make a cordial appearance, though its presence was fleeting and manner unforthcoming, submitting control to the gentler details. Layers filled depths that were hollowed by minimalism, as featherweight knits grazed shirts and suit jackets in the same touch, while ditsy geometrics filled in the blanks. Proportions teased, whether it was overcoats to cocoon or abruptly tailored cut-offs. Cuffs, too, were rolled with imaginative flair, as wrists were wrapped like swadling to the three-quater point. In fluid crepe fabrics, robed trench coats in squared-off lines gave the wonderful impression of a ribbon-wrapped gift – as good a metaphor as any for Pilati's benevolent first offer for Ermenegildo Zegna.
Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The catwalk shows of Dolce&Gabbana replay digital print like a looping blockbuster marathon. This screening, however, seemed somewhat more cinematic than most. Maybe it was the colour – etched out in the sepia tones, classical columned temples resonated in the eyes of the early Hollywood film fan, which played out before such scenes.
For the most part, tones remained subdued, allowing the intricacy to speak for itself. Bomber jackets made the graphic guise look easy. As for the 3 piece suit: although impossibly difficult to wear, it was a thing of beauty, nonetheless. Patterns complimented – the quiet stripe of slim-fit pants replicating the pillared architecture of ancient Italy. Blossomed silks provided a brief séjour from an otherwise crusading collection, while raw cloth rags buffed the fine edges to relic.
As for shape, there was nothing historical about the square shell-tee – unless of course, atop a muscular form, from which it assumed gladiatorial proportions. Then again, Dolce&Gabbana’s contemporary classicism has amassed quite an arena, all eyes on their heroic prints.
Damir Doma Resort 2014
Damir Doma is known not for flouncy detail, but more his rather austere sense of line. Femininity and severity are tricky things to balance, so Doma may have struck gold with his working forumula.
Welcomed as the womenswear guest of Pitti W 12, the Giardino Corsini al Prato in Florence set the backdrop for Doma's eloquent 2014 Resort show. A tone resonant in the very first look, an elongated shift dress envelopes the body with the characteristics of paper. Blocked color on crepe silk takes the theme further, in asymmetric cuts that just miss the fold line. Concealed fastenings allow the fantasy to live on, as paper bag waists and unblemished edges create the incredibly believable impression of origami construction, while cold-shoulder cutouts tear in just the right places.
A restrained colour pallette pulls focus to detail. The royal purple and jewelled fucshia tones reign over swathes of monochrome check, but the steadfast sovereign is, by far, page-white, for its impeccable execution of crisp, statched folds.
Moncler open store in Sylt
Continuing their expansion within Germany, Moncler are to open a boutique on the northern island of Sylt, stocking clothes and accessories from the Moncler and Moncler Grenoble collections. In keeping with the typical white brickwork and thatched rooves that line the city of Kampen, the new store has been designed to uphold “High Mountrain” traditions. Smoked oak pannelling clads floor and ceiling, making for a cosy interior that is typically 'Sylt' . Elegant touches of black metal and glass enhance rather than detract from the quaint setting – no doubt a design detail of architect firm Gilles & Boissier, who can claim a history of collaborations with the label.
Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
From beneath the redundant railway arches of Kings Cross came a vision in white. All lace and pallid skin bought something of the modern day beau to London yesterday. At once sharply-suited and undone, stiffly starched collars poked their wings from wrinkled silk, as knuckle-grazing cuffs second-guessed the astute dressing of the dandy. Mary Janes, meanwhile, trod the industrial cobblestones with a distrinctly feminine authority, blurring the boundaries which fashion gender with Regency resonance.
Distressed knits layered shell-structured tees, webbing ivories into a monochrome scheme. Silhouette remained true to tradition, with only subtle shake-ups to conventional tailoring; casual pieces flirted with heritage, while sleeves were sheered to bare arms in a twist to challenge formality.
Embelishment, on the other hand, was an altogether modest affair, overruled by the mixing of minimalist pieces in a playful repertoire of lengths. Nonetheless, when print was on the cards, it truly made its presence known. Jacquard flocks and candy stripes were unabashedly busy, evoking layer upon layer of peeling wallpaper – only to be understated by Sarah Burton's stripped-down interpretations of the plain black suit.
LVMH presents Les Journées Particulières
If curiosity ever proves too much to bear, Les Journées Particulières may go some way to satisfying that thirst for knowledge – just the tonic for an inquiring mind. Following its successful launch in 2011, this weekend's program of events serve an art and design initiative conducted by luxury brand group and patron, LVMH.
Through Saturday and Sunday, houses under the LVMH umbrella will leave their doors open to the public accross 42 European sites. The Ateliers of Kenzo, Dior and Louis Vuitton – to name but a few – will impart ticketholders with a rare glimpse of their creative environments, providing behind-the-scenes insight to the work of craftsmen and artisans.
From couture to cosmetics, watches to wine, Les Journées Particulières hosts an extensive array of workshops to cater to all trades. With open-houses in six countries, the celebration will surely be far-reaching, enlightening and simply unmissable.
Les Journées Particulières runs from June 15-16th at various venues.
Replay Spring/Summer 2014
More than a splash of beach style made its way onto the Replay's Spring/Summer catwalk for the 2014 season. In fact, the Urban Surf collection was awash with sun and surf pop – a perfect postcard of the Hawaiian shores.
The free-spirit of the surfer shines in the design of the Replay Blue Jeans line, whose bleached tones speak of saltwater-drenched and sun-dried carelessness. Loose fit and unfinished edges render Men's and Women's styles characteristically cool, as rolled-up cuffs reveal ankles and attitude. Laserblast denim lies at the heart of the hippie vibe. Eco-friendly and low impact, skinny, boyfit, biker and carrot cuts are a reaction to responsible youth culture. Nostalgic femininity is plucked straight from Venice Beach, when broderie anglaise confronts cold-dyed leather. Meanwhile, fringed T-shirts and are taken from day to night, when cargo jackets are swapped for stone studs and sequins. Menswear, too, is distinctly understated. Oversized T-shirts are aged by texture, as crinkled fabrics appear blushed by the sun, while biker sleeves reinterpret the nylon bomber.
Vibrant hues make waves when palm-print takes the form of macro print and batik. Neoprene mini dresses and mesh knits steal structure from scuba, applying exposed zips and stitching as a playful final point of reference.
Jason Wu for Hugo Boss Womenswear
Jason Wu is to take up a newly established position at Hugo Boss, as Artistic Director of Womenswear. The role will see the designer assume the creative direction for all product and image aspects of womens' ready-to-Wear and accessories by Hugo Boss. While he continues to design for his own line, Wu will open a design studio in New York, while taking charge of his team at the Hugo Boss headquaters in Metzingen, Germany.
His creations will make their debut during the city's Pre-Fall 2014 season, with his first runway show taking place during Fashion Week in February. Choicely working with a designer known for such a distinctly feminine aesthetic, the label described the appointment of Wu as a chance to shift focus to the female side of the brand. Speaking on his new role, the designer expressed admiration for the label's remarkable tailoring, adding, “I plan to develop a strong, feminine womenswear collection that reciprocates the brand’s authority in menswear”.
Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 Campaign
The sun may be beaming on your back, but just one glimpse at the steely sobriety of the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 campaign is enough to give you chills. Captured by the painterly eyes of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, an inky color palette and soft elusive lines lend an impressionistic quality to the photos. As the twenties theme subtly sings, angular form appears to almost dance, with a gently-focussed lens illustrating a dreamy sense of movement. Starring Mariacarla Boscono and Florian Van Bael, the campaign is to debut worldwide later this month.
Dior's Secret Garden 2
Step into a world of secrecy and splendour. To sequel the success of their Secret Garden short film last Fall, Dior are bringing their Fall/Winter collection to life through another directed piece. Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have been called upon to direct the Secret Garden 2- Versailles. Starring Daria Strokous as Marie Antoinette, the Château de Versailles provides the backdrop to an enchanting tale, dreamt upon the painting by Edouard Manet, Le déjeuner sur l'Herbe. Launching live online in June, prepare to explore a realm abound with poetry and colour, as flower-women bloom from its mysterious grounds. Fantasy thrives in the most unexpected of places, as luxury gives way to dark imagination - illustrious of the season's peek-a-boo cuts to established sillhouettes.
G-Star flagship store Berlin
With a versatile event comprised of music, fashion and art, denim brand G-Star opened its new flagship store on Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Actor Sönke Möhring of 'Inglorious Basterds' fame and presenter Rabea Schif activated the 'champagne crusher' to official unveil the store and open the doors to the RAW art series, a design experiment , which explores the limitless possibilities of denim. The new location houses the entire men's and women's collection as well as accessories on 350 square meters.
G-Star RAW store
J.W. Anderson for Versus Versace
When it was announced some months back that Jonathan Anderson was invited by Donatella Versace to design a capsule collection for Versace, opinions were both in doubt and in awe. In some ways, the two aesthetics could not be further apart. Jonathan's brand J.W. Anderson is known for it's rigourous and boxy cuts and unisex approach. Versace obviously likes to keep its clothing as close to the body for it's sexually agressive and confident man and woman. But on another level, the brands have a similarity that can not be denied; J.W. Anderson is heavily influenced by the nineties-era and that period was, of course, Gianni Versace's initial heyday.
That tension is clearly visible in the collection presented wednesday in New York. Andersons personal influences were the austere and graphic pieces like cropped tops and skirts with high slits on both legs. J.W. Andersons latest menswear collection was all about ruffles, short hems and knee-high boots. That unisex-feeling returned in this Versus-collection as the clothes didn't change that much for him or her. The Versus-man is as confident in a croped and sliced top as his female counterpart. When the Versace-trademarkt made their appearance in the collection, it added extra depth to the collection with signature gold buttons, lace and safety-pins. The collection, reminiscent of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Versace himself, celebrated the nineties. But most of all, it was the result of an balanced joining of forces, in which both parties had an equal voice.
Stella McCartney joins Designer for Tomorrow
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf is proud to announce that Stella McCartney is the new patron for their annual talent award Designer for Tomorrow. Since its initiation in 2009, the fashion award is yearly given away during the Berlin Fashion Week, giving young talent the chance to be discovered and providing them with a creative platform.
With Marc Jacobs as the patron of the project for the last two years, Peek & Cloppenburg found a worthy successor in Stella McCartney. She will be part of the whole process of finding the next winner of the fashion design competition. The first step of the process will be reviewing every application sent in from all over Europe and for McCartney to select her favourite ten designers. Along with an expert jury board, she will view the presentation of the finalists' collections in Berlin in May 2013. Ultimately then they will decide on a winner, who will present his collection at the Berlin Fashion Week and receive the fashion award's grant.
Jimmy Choo at London Collections: Men
It's a first for Jimmy Choo! In previous years the fashion brand always presented their menswear collection in Milan, but in June 2013 the men's collection will make its debut in London for the first time.
The Spring/Summer collection 2014 will surely be a great addition to the third installment of the London Collections: Men, which will take place from the 16th til the 18th of June.
To fully win over the hearts of the fashionable Londoners, Jimmy Choo will also be opening a flagship store in Dover Street in the beginning of May.
Window Displays at Lanvin Paris
Inspired by the prints of Alber Elbaz’ Lanvin Winter/Fall 2013-14 collection, the window displays at the Lanvin Paris store are currently filled with hundreds of butterflies. Swarms of fluttering creatures are suspended in mid-air surrounding the still mannequins, they seem to defy gravity.
The shapes of the butterflies give a playful notion and their elegant black colour is a contrast to the white skin of the mannequins as well as the Parisian creme stone walls found at 22 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Flying through doorways, out of fireplaces and old-fashioned record-players the butterflies are attracted to Lanvin garments like bees are attracted to honey. The mannequins seem surprised by the sudden appearance of the butterflies, there’s nothing left to do but to hold on to those gorgeous Lanvin handbags and be careful not to take a tumble in those wonderful heels.
The Surf Shack by Tommy Hilfiger
When surf culture emerged in America in the 60s, it was about much more than just the sport. It created a new direction in music and fashion - in fact, a whole new lifestyle still embraced by surfers around the world today. That surf culture inspired Tommy Hilfiger to create Surf Shack, a limited-edition capsule collection to accompany his spring/summer 2013 collection.
Tommy Hilfiger normally takes a fresh and young approach to classic American apparel. Surf Shack manages to create a crossover between preppy and laid back, resulting in surf sophistication. The 12 womenswear and 16 menswear pieces are made of summery fabrics like chambray and feature bold prints and neon colors. The beach apparel, swimwear, footwear, sunglasses, watches and bags are ideal from sunrise to sunset on a hot summer's day.
Tommy Hilfiger has also collaborated with the Art Production Fund again to invite five contemporary artists to design five unique surfboards. They will be available in selected Tommy Hilfiger stores from April 15, once the in-store installations of sandy beaches are complete.
Human Made X Coca-Cola
The Japanese designer NIGO® launched his new capsule collection inspired by vintage Coca-Cola. The capsule collection is released under his newest label’s name – Human Made. The new line of menswear takes its inspiration from iconic work wear from the 20th century. A wide grey sweater with the old-fashioned Coco-Cola logo in a blazing red, a cap with stripes and simple white T-Shirts with prints of the coke bottles remind of the days, when Coca-Cola was brand new and everybody raved about that new fizzy drink.
Fun fact behind the collection: The designer owns a personal collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia including a red retro leather jacket from his high school days. He was also the Japan Coca-Cola yo-yo champion back in the 80s and awaited this collection for a long time.
The capsule collection is a collaboration with one of Japan’s fanciest boutiques, Beams. The collection is solely available at Beams surrounded by fitting decor like a neon light script of the Coca-Cola logo and a red vintage metal box filled with the classic coke glass bottles.
The new Crash by Chanel
by Rachel Marie Walsh
No, this timepiece isn’t a cut-out from Dali’s The Persistence of Memory. This is Cartier’s re-edition of the 'Crash' watch, a design originally produced for the brand’s UK boutiques in 1967. Cartier London was an independent company at the time and the melted-looking bezel is as reminiscent of Carnaby Street hipsters as it is surrealist art. In fact, the design was inspired by the broken watch of a Cartier London customer who’d been in a car accident. In the heat of the wreckage, his oval-shaped Cartier Bagnoire Alongée had stretched and warped, yet managed to remain elegant.
Company head Jean-Jacques Cartier was so intrigued by this “survivor” that he put it into production. Cartier liked the irreverence of the shape, especially contrasted against the technical perfection and precise construction of what lay beneath. Over the years, Crash watches from the 60s and 70 - all signed “London” unlike the signature "Paris" for modern watches - have increased significantly in value. One can see the appeal: something that is both luxurious yet which has endured the extreme.
This season, the Crash is available as a ladies dress watch in four models, each with bracelets comprised of drops of white or pink gold and gem-set bezels. One particularly exquisite style has a bracelet covered with brilliant-cut diamonds. In reference to the year it was created, only 267 Crash watches have been produced. An underground classic for true connoisseurs of Cartier.
G-Shock X Maison Martin Margiela
Everything is still very secretive around a certain collaboration between the luxury fashion house Maison Martin Margiela and the G-Shock watch. One thing is certain though: To celebrate the 30th birthday of the G-Shock, a new model of the GA-300 will hit the stores in the end of March 2013.
The GA-300MMM will feature a detachable leather band and it has been hinted that the 0-23 numbers of the fashion designer will feature as a pattern. The watch will be a limited edition with a number of 3,000 and only 300 stores all around the world will stock it. The exciting collaboration promises to be a successful one, but for now all one can do is wait and long for more details about the design of the covetable watch.
Gucci Chime For Change
Chime for education. Chime for health. Chime for justice. To empower women all around the world and to strengthen women’s right is the aim of Gucci's new project Chime For Change. The campaign was just launched at the TED 2013 and its spokeswomen are Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini, singer Beyoncé Knowles-Carter and actress Salma Hayek Pinault.
To bring together and unite voices defending girls and women from all over the world is the way how to achieve change. Via social media platforms such as Twitter or Facebook everyone’s voice can be heard. “There is no innocent bystander in the information age,“ says Salma Hayek Pinault at the TEDxWomen Luncheon. Social media offers the opportunity for anybody to become active and push positive social change forward.
While in many countries women still struggle for basic human rights,
Chime For Change is not only raising awareness about said topic, but also cooperates with the social change makers of Catapult. Catapult is a crowdfunding platform to better and further the living conditions of girls and women, representing over 50 organisations in 38 countries. It will link Chime For Change members to charity projects they can participate in and donate to.
The Nigerian women's rights activist Hafsat Abiola left the women at the luncheon with a hopeful and motivating statement: “Let us stand in solidarity with each other in our common struggle for a better world and step by step, not over night, but step by step we will change the way that the world sees women and treats women.“
Get involved and encourage change on the official website of Chime For Change:
Céline Fall/Winter 2013-14
A soft colour palette of nude tones defined the Céline Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. British designer Phoebe Philo chose a toned down, but elegant look for the Céline woman of the next cold season. Skirts that flared perfectly around the knees, creme V-neck dresses or ones with broad off-shoulder collars floated along the runway. Integrating statement jewellery into the garments and pairing them with tight overknee leather boots were a contrast to the clean cuts.
Amongst all those oversized coats one of them stood out in particular – that one coat that reminded of a dalmatian’s fur. A beautiful piece of clothing in white with a lot of furry black spots. It looked a little more eccentric than its counter part with creme spots, which fit more into the line of nude colours.
Elegant stand-up collars were essential to the collection, no matter if they were part of luxurious wool jumpers or checkered jackets. A few looks combined different plaids with each other in bright reds and blues. The collection came to a finish with a range of navy blue garments. Their designs reminded of the creme coloured dresses and so the runway show came to a perfect close.
Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection pairs classic fits with playful details and from girly dresses with pockets to elegant gowns to wear on a night out, it has it all. While the collection started off with white garments making the models look like youthful ice princesses, the final dresses out of flowy fabrics had a more grown up feel to them.
A lot of pleats were seen throughout the whole collection. Whether on sleeveless shirt dresses, on jackets or blouses, it was all in the details. Among the variety of coats the highlight was without doubt the final piece – a wide furry parka in white, grey and black with a big hood, paired with a dress featuring an graphic black and white print of large tulips. The petals and stalks remind of spring time and bring back the memories of sunshine to the winter days.
Black, snow white and icy grey with a touch of a silverish shine were the neutral colours of the collection, while a warm brown as well as splashes of cornflower blue, bright pink and fiery red added more colour. Quilted leather jackets, furry collars, a button through skirt with fringes ending just above the knee as well as fringy hemlines on jackets and coats were essential to the collection.
Camper Spring/Summer 2013
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Nothing was what it seemed on Bernhard Wilhelm’s Spring/Summer catwalk, what with the crazily-patterned grunge-chic and models in futuristic afros and foil masks. Then again, one of the designer’s long-term mantras is “chaos is beautiful.”
The shoes were a perfect match, in a blindingly clashing kind of way. Wilhelm's seasonal collaboration with Camper combines wild animal prints with chunky, unexpected soles and natural materials like cork. Conformity and provocation co-exist with a humorous disdain for the plain, as he pushes the boundaries of conventional footwear to create shocking shapes.
Since Wilhelm set up his brand (together with Jutta Kraus) in 1999, the Ulm, Germany-born designer has refused to be swayed by success. He continues to create an imaginative and wonderfully lunatic world playfully projected onto the Spanish brand’s footwear.
The stand-out shoes for women were zebra-print sandals with wildly outsized soles. With ankle-high upper and thong construction, these shoes are both a sandal and a boot, available as a flat or with the on-trend cylindrical heel. Both are lined with leather and rubber. The flagship sneaker for men and women is reinvented with neon camouflage or zebra and Dalmatian-print in black and white monochrome. The soles are boosted with sculpted, zigzag rubber inserts in contrasting colors. All are crazy-cool, just the way Campers should be.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
A unique simplicity has always been one of the essential element of Jil Sander's designs. Her new Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection stays true to her minimalist approach to fashion and clear cuts structure her garments.
Overknee length skirts of flowy light fabrics are part of this year's Fall/Winter collection as are sleeveless dresses with pleat details and deep v-necks. Other tops feature a neckline that resembles a cross between a boat neck and a v-neck. Coats with large pockets and an oversize fit, either worn open or with a belt to accentuate waist and hips, are the highlight of this collection. Their colours vary from a range of blues including navy and azure blue to a bright orange and yellow.
The collection's finale is made up of a number of simple black bandeau dresses with minimalist golden stripes and elegant coats of thick wool and fur. It is the epitome of pure and simple elegance. The signature minimalist design of Jil Sander at its best once again.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
With their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Iceberg decided to take a trip to the past. The first look of the runway show included a knitted sweater that re-invented the style of the one that was designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in 1983. However, the creme coloured wool and crisscrossed black leather stripes look more contemporary than ever.
The reoccuring pattern of the whole collection was that of stripes – covering sleeves of sweaters, woven into jumpers wool, spreading diagonally across knee-length pencil skirts. Some pullovers were in a patchwork style mixing various stripey patterns of different colours with leather and furry details. Returning to high quality knitwear from jumpers over fitted cardigans to slouchy knit dresses, a variety of wool was used. While the knitwear featured wide sleeves and soft shapes, the collection also included jackets and blazers with sharp tailoring. Throughout the whole collection the designs had a focus on strong shoulders.
Leather cigarette pants with a slim fit in a bold fuchsia displayed a use of bright colours. Azure blue and lemon yellow were other main colours, beside black and white. The final looks of the collection turned the neat stripes into colourful twirls adorned with numerous sequins. All in all the collection had just the right amount of seriousness, but also a playful touch.
Fire Etchings by Karl Lagerfeld
From oil painings to contemporary photography the portait is one particular form of art that artists have been fascinated with ever since. None other than Karl Lagerfeld has created one of the most recent responses to what contemporary portraiture could look like.
In his exhibition “Karl Lagerfeld: Fire Etchings“ at the Galerie Gmurzynska in St. Moritz, the fashion designer and photographer dicovers a whole new medium for portraiture by using backlit glass and etching images into its surface with fire.
The subjects of the glowing blue, yellow and white images are rapper Theophilus London as well as the models Freja Beha Erichsen and Aymeline Valade – Lagerfeld’s current muses. The exhibition is on display at the Galerie Gmurzynska until the 23rd of March and viewable seven days a week from 10-19 hrs. The gallery is located at Via Serlas 22, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland.
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013-14
Determined and with a confident walk the models at the Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show present the garments for the cold seasons to come. It was Francisco Coasta's goal to bring back the coat with this collection, and so he did.
His original inspiration came from a coat worn by the leading lady in the Russian movie Ivan's Childhood, which looked feminine and very tailored at the same time. The coats of this Calvin Klein collection have broad collars and reinforced shoulders, while at the same time waist belts and pleats keep the shape feminine.
The square golden buckles of the belts reappear on the toe-caps of the chic pumps, which are worn as an alternative to black patent leather boots. While thick twill fabric is used a lot, so is shiny leather for coats, dresses as well as tops with boat necks and cut-out backs. The look of a bandeau top is combined with a high waisted skirt to form a dress that reveals a little more skin than it should in winter time. However, black, creme, deep greens and blues are the ideal colours for the frosty season.
The Unfolder 7 by Alexandre Vauthier
This is it. The Unfolder 7. The first bag ever to be designed by Alexandre Vauthier. While the fashion brand marks its fourth year in existence, this is the first accessory by the French designer. It's the cherry on top accompanying the garments of the current collection.
The square and slim structure of the bag looks classic, yet modern. The same effect is achieved by its materials of lambskin and crocodile leather as well as the golden metal chain and details. The versatile bag can be worn as a clutch or across the shoulder, just as one pleases. So it's an ideal companion for a night out, but just as much for a relaxed day in town.
Happy Birthday, Dior!
It's a birthday to celebrate! 66 years ago on a snowy day in Paris the very first collection of Dior Haute Couture was revealed. The 12th of February 1947 became a date that marks a pivotal day in fashion history.
To the astonishment of the fashion show's audience feminine dresses and the typical defined high waist showed of the female body. No longer were those models hiding in their bodies in unflattering clothes of the war-time. Femininity made a comeback and the Parisians audience as well as women and men all around the world were admiring the Dior Haute Couture collection.
On the same day a second new thing was introduced to the world: Dior's first ever perfume. The smell of Miss Dior was everywhere in the rooms of Avenue Montaigne No. 30, where the fashion show was taking place hinting that the new look of a woman was not only about what she wore, but about her overall presence.
Guess Jeans Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
For the new Spring/Summer Campaign of Guess the creative director Paul Marciano chose a typical summery setting: White sandy seashores, clear turquoise water, leafs of green palm trees and beach huts.
Two girls and two guys are stranded on the island of Bora Bora, discovering the picturesque shores and native culture. Light dresses in soft colours and tight skinny jeans are worn by the girls, unbuttoned denim shirts bare the fit upper bodies of the male models. The atmosphere of the campaign is supposed to be sexy and a little steamy, focussing on the relation between the female and male models. The campaign was shot by photographer Yu Tsai and the song is “Jump Off“ by Silver Bullets.
Marc Jacobs becomes Creative Director of Coca Cola Light
It’s time to celebrate! Marc Jacobs is the new Creative Director of Coca Cola Light in 2013. After 30 years of the invention of the low-calorie drink the genious fashion designer is taking the leads to bring the Coca Cola brand forward.
In the new amusing advertisement three girls stumble upon Marc Jacobs posing inside a photo booth with his ice cool Coke tin. He is taking the idea of the Coca Cola Light Man to the next level, taking off his shirt and baring it all. While the flirty tune of I just want to make love to you by Etta James is playing the girls can’t help but steal a glance at the photos the booth spits out. They gasp once they recognise Marc Jacobs: The surprise is out and he just casually announces that it’s time to celebrate his new position.
So raise your glasses (or Coke Light tins) and say cheers to a new Coco Cola era led by Marc Jacobs.
Stone Island S/S 2013 Night Glow Jacket
Some garments of the Stone Island Spring/Summer 2013 collection have a special feature: The ability to glow in the dark. Luminescence techniques have always been fascinating and now Stone Island is pushing them forward with their recent inventions.
The key to the glowing fabric is an extraordinary double-layered polyester piqué that captures light and reflects it when worn in complete darkness. A membrane inserted into the fabric prevents water and wind from entering and makes the jacket a perfect garment to wear outside on a dark and stormy night. Twelve items from hooded jackets over cardigans to waistcoats carry the glow in the dark fabric.
Leandro Cano Fall/Winter 2013-14
A shining addition to Berlin Fashion Week was the collection of newcomer and emerging designer Leandro Cano. He was the winner of the 2012 Designer for Tomorrow competition by Peek&Cloppenburg Düsseldorf, which was hosted by Marc Jacobs. The financing and presentation of Cano’s first collection was a worthy price for winning.
White and creme as well as bordeau are the main colours of the collection. Almost every garment has delicate ceramic pieces attached to them. Sometimes on the shoulders, sometimes on skirts or even on tights and leggings. Unusual for something made out of cloth fabric, the ceramic makes the collection seem fragile.
Some pieces are made out of clear plastic resembling rain capes. The designs as well structured, mostly highlighting hips and sometimes shoulders. Another essential piece is the peplum top. Patterns of flowers entwine around the models’ bodies adding a playful touch. Furry details on the back of the white garments remind of little angels’ wings. The models themselves look more like sinister mermaids with wet hair, who just broke through a surface of water, now wading through fog near the water’s edge.
A.P.C. Berlin Store Opening
After expanding world-wide with stores in major cities such as Tokyo, New York City and Hong Kong A.P.C. is returning to Berlin to open yet another store in the German capital. It will be the second store in Berlin and the expenditure can be traced back to the designer's love of the vibrant city. Jean Touitou has even contemplated moving his studio and atelier from Paris to Berlin.
Touitou worked together with architect Laurent Deroo on the refurbishment of the shop in Fasanenstrasse 22. It will carry A.P.C.'s men and women line, jeans and accessories. The opening celebration is taking place on January 31st from 18.00 til 21.00 hrs.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
A domestic setting became the scenery of Prada's menswear Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. A furnished house with modern designs and pristine clean furniture by the designer team AMO was the setting. Cubic chairs and glass tables were decorated with lonely fruit bowls, electronic gadgets, plants and vases. The "ideal house".
Fittingly the collection seemed familiar and homely. Gingham shirts untucked under compfy, but high quality sweaters and ankle length trousers are the key pieces of the collection. Ruffled shirts are worn underneath short checked jackets and long coats with velvet collars. Shiny brown and black leather brogues with thick spiky soles add the final touch.
The boys with the fringe haircut and their big sunglasses as well as bright coloured leather jackets seem like they just time traveled in from the 70s. Casually they walk from one door frame to the next one, entering one room after another. Miuccia Prada returns to classicism and simplicity with her collection. Less is more it is.
Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
For the Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2013 the Parisian Grand Palais was transformed into a forest: It seemed like tall trees had grown out of the floor surrounding a beautiful amphitheatre overlooking the whole scenery. On a winding path the models made their way through the forest looking stunningly elegant – in thigh high boots out of silver leather or toeless delicate lace.
Through the whole collection an accent on the the neck and the shoulders can be seen. Necklines below the shoulders show a bare neck as a sign of pure and gracile beauty, but square applications on the shoulders and upper arms give the upper body a contrary strong look. Long sequin covered gowns, tulle and lace hems are essential parts of the collection as well. While the show started off with fabrics such as tweed and bouclé, the show finishes of with dresses made of thousands of feathers complementing the feathery hairpieces of the models and the birdsong heard among the trees.
The presentation of the wedding dress makes a clear statement about the ongoing disputes concerning the legalization of gay marriage in France. Only two weeks back hundreds of thousands of people demonstrated near the Eiffel Tower opposing gay marriage, but yesterday two models in the same wedding dress were holding each other's hands while walking down the runway. Lagerfeld's godson accompanied both of them and gave expression to the designer's thoughts on gay marriage and gay parents raising children.
John Richmond Fall/Winter 2013-14
For Fall/Winter 2013-14, John Richmond got his inspiration from unknow pleasures. The collection was mostly focused on clean lines and geometric silhouettes with influences from sport and a feeling of utility. The combination of natural wool, tailoring and prints on the knitwear defines John Richmond, and makes the collection one to remember.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013
John Varvatos is the go-to brand for Rock and Roll guys with sartorial wit. This fall the Varvatos-man was more of a dandy than ever with slim-cut clothes in dark hues. Subtle plaids were combined with cozy mohair sweaters and slick tailoring. Varvatos re-introduced flared trousers for men to give that seventies aura. This al ended in a finale of lucious velvet suits, ready to be worn for the 21th century dandy.
Diesel SS/15 Campaign: #DieselHigh
Rise above. Tolerance. Inclusiveness. LOVE. This is Diesel’s new year’s resolution. With the blazing horns of equality resonating through the Diesel motto, the SS2015 campaign takes fashion to another level. Explained and conceived by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the campaign runs with the #DieselHigh slogan’s provocative and optimistic message – “It’s elevating yourself. Elevating your spirit. Whatever it takes, however you do it. Wherever you are.” The celebration of the unique individual and the spirit of diversity is deeply rooted within Diesel’s DNA. Here it is fully expressed in the SS2015 #DieselHigh formulation – a resounding nod towards the sirens of tolerance, equality and unconditional love. www.diesel.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Joan Jett had a lovechild with Prince and their union was a match made in Armani Haute Couture heaven. The rebellious, confident air of the 80’s inspired collection was undeniable. There were short raven-haired wigs, boldly colored ombre sequin getups, bulky geometric accessories and puffy but glamorous feather creations. Nevertheless, the elegance seethed out of every garment, its glamour needing no heel. The elevated 80’s looks were however strengthened by the choice of flat footwear, allowing for the eyes to focus wholeheartedly on the beautiful shimmer of the Privé wonder.
Miu Miu Club and the 2016 Croisière collection during Paris Fashion Week
In celebration of the 2016 Croisière collection and the fashion house’s first fragrance, Miu Miu set the AMO to create a one of a kind pop-up club in the French capital. Inspired by the cabarets of Les Folies Bergères and the jazz-filled streets of Montmartre, the space was a true feast for those longing for the seductive Paris nightlife. Alongside the collection showcase, the event was a full-bodied celebration of Parisian culture, including a cocktail gathering, exclusive dinner and musical performances by several DJs including Seth Troxler and Frederic Sanches who ensured the party was fit for its grand Paris venue. The resort collection echoed the carefree, dark side of the Miu Miu venue, with curiously shaped tops and punkish prints scattered throughout. The silhouette was a mashup of several decades it seems – from 60s minis to 20s drop-waist dresses. It was as if all of Paris’ nightlife ghosts had come alive to celebrate again.
Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
It was a dark and twisted fairy wonderland. Pastel colored fabrics draped beautifully and effortlessly around ethereal models were paired with shiny go go-dancer platforms, dark eye makeup and tousled ‘morning after’ locks. The spectacle of the Atelier Versace show was striking – thousands of glass-encased orchids lined the runway, headlining models included Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone and Sasha Pivovarova and the crowd was not disappointed. Donatella received a standing ovation at the end of the mystical fairy-gone-bad couture showcase. The gowns were mesmerizing and looked to be taken straight out of the Grimms’ original fairy tales – gritty and fascinating as they are.
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Paul Smith Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Sir Paul Smith’s SS 16 collection seemed tailor-made for the older rock star generation, retro yet perfectly cool. With hues ranging from subtle greys to eye-popping orange and yellows, the overall impression of the Paul Smith guy was of a man who knows which classics work best and when to inject that little something extra. And this is exactly what comprised the Paul Smith collection – classics, reworked in an exciting manner. From green metallic suits to turquoise and yellow unions – Smith certainly set the brief for the nonchalant rocker.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
G-Star RAW x Ellen von Unwerth: The Sequel
The iconic denim brand G-Star RAW teamed up with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for their second unique collaboration, this time in monochromatic splendor. The raw visuals of von Unwerth’s imagery highlight the denim texture’s distinct attitude. Playing with military poses, the campaign draws forth the denim’s youthful and rebellious connotations. Formative of G-Star RAW’s evolution has been the Elwood – the first ever pants constructed using 3D methods, which drew on biker pants for inspiration. The campaign showcases the wide range of G-Star RAW jeans from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The FW 2015 collection is currently available online and in stores from August onwards.
Prada Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Leather shorts, black boots, tailored jackets and casually bold prints dominated the somewhat feminine take on menswear by Miuccia Prada. The collection was imprinted with the playful feeling of boyhood – oversized tops, colorful prints of rocket ships and racing cars and shirts tucked hurriedly into shorts. Boot-cut pants and zipped sweaters beneath printed shirts reflected the vintage 70s vibe that reverberated throughout the Prada showcase.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
Louis Vuitton 2016 Cruise Collection
On May 6th, the Cruise 2016 show made the landmark residence of Bob and Dolores Hope its grand stage. Created by revered Modernist architect John Lautner, the steel, concrete and glass windowed architecture seemed built for the show. Armor-like, metallic pieces were intertwined with ethereal, flowing prints, creating an aesthetic that could be described as futuristic boho-chic. Structured, practical boots were favoured over the heel, adding to the utilitarian feel.
The LV Cruise show caused quite the ruckus, not merely for its runway mastery, but its presence on social media. For the public and those not in attendance, the fashion house shared runway, backstage and after party moments with their Live Louis Vuitton Snapchat feature.
Nicholas Ghesquiere’s showcase was, however, so much more than a display of a stunning collection, it was a momentary glimpse of an alternate, Ghesquiere-curated life. The desolate yet beautiful surroundings of the Palm Springs location afforded to the showcase an outlandish, near alien atmosphere, and the clothing were equally as elevated.
To see the full show, go to
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.