DIESEL creates ALRITE: the timeless watch that takes art to the street
To do good and in an innovative way has always been considered one of Diesel's mottos. This winter and in collaboration with Fossil, the Italian brand has undoubtedly hit its target with its latest project: the Diesel ALRITE timepieces.
Cut out from 150 square meters of original artwork by Rostarr, who collaborated in the design of this accessory, ALRITE is literally a work of art that endures the passage of time while paying homage to both art and Diesel’s DNA.
The 555 pieces that make up this Limited edition collection are completely unique and each different from one another, making for one-of-a-kind watches. This feeling of exclusivity is exactly what this hand-wrapped genuine leathers watch brings to the wearer by intertwining the aspects of time and timelessness.
Moreover Diesel ALRITE teams up with Sotheby’s to reinforce the message of not only bringing art back, but also doing so for a good cause. Three pieces from this unique collection will be auctioned via e-bay for charity. Funds will be donated to the Only The Brave Foundation that has been working with Diesel for many years to fight against social inequality and working on sustainable development across the world.
“Create products that draw the line between pragmatic and fashion forward” this mission has been definitely brought to life.
PIRELLI CALENDAR 2017: An Unfiltered Emotion
“In a time when women are represented in the media and everywhere else, as ambassadors of perfection and youth, I thought it was important to remind everyone that there is a different beauty”
‘Emotional’, the title chosen by Peter Lindbergh for the 2017 edition of the iconic Pirelli Calendar. No other word could strike such a chord in women’s hearts that, nowadays, find themselves fighting against unrealistic beauty standards imposed by society. Fighting to fit in a world in which all things beauty are accompanied by a certain degree of fakery.
Pirelli Calendars have always been seen as conveyors of a specific message of perfection that could be hardly afforded by us, mere mortals. Following Annie Leibovitz’s thread of last year, Lindbergh decided to let beloved actresses shine through their nakedness. Not a nakedness imposed by the lack of garments but by the absence of filters.
The choice of abstaining from Photoshop editing is indeed the leading theme of the 2017 Calendar, which includes actresses like Uma Thurman, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet and Julianne Moore in all their natural feminine splendor. The beauty that speaks about the courage of being yourself in your own sensibility.
Lindbergh’s message wants to reach all women who feel worthless, despicable, and inadequate in a way that only an artist of his caliber could achieve.
Prince Claus Fund Gallery welcomes El Anatsui: Meyina
As of the 24th of November and as part of its continuing mission to collaborate with artists from backgrounds where opportunities for cultural expression and creative production are limited, Amsterdam's Prince Claus Fund Gallery will be hosting El Anatsui's Meyina exhibition.
Curated by independent curator and founder of the Centre for Contemporary Art – Lagos, Bisi Silva, Meyina paints a portrait of the artist that brings together disparate fragments that form a whole. The exhibition includes an array of materials from the artist's workspaces and past collaborations.. Sketchbooks, drawings and letters offer a unique glimpse into Anatsui's creative process.
The Ghanaian artist transforms found materials into large shimmering forms by assembling elements into vibrant patterns with a unique visual impact. Large-scale assemblages of thousands of pieces of aluminium sourced from alcohol recycling stations, are sewn together with copper resulting in an interesting texture that resembles woven cloth. El Anatsui's visually impactful cloth-like wall sculpture serve as contemporary commentary on African history, colonialism, post-colonial reality and the daily reality the continent faces.
In the exhibition the concept of a limitless horizon, an immersive space where possibilities become real resonates. The artist's dedication to exploring political and environmental issues through his work's raw materials has established him as a staunch defender of artistic freedom and an inspiration in the development of the visual arts in Africa.
Paraphrasing Ghanaian author Kofi Anyidoho, Anatsui states that, 'when I am in the studio it is as if the sky bends down to have a word with the earth.'
The exhibition, launched as part of Amsterdam Art Weekend, will run until April 28th 2017 at the Prince Claus Fund Gallery.
The Pareo - Miu Miu's revolutionary skirt
Miu Miu's Resort 2016 collection features the “Pareo skirt”. This journey-inspired design makes heads turn and conversations start making it one of the collection's stand-out pieces.
With patterns that evoke 90s rave culture, this skirt strives to be infinitely adaptable, audacious and representative of the Miu Miu girl's independent spirit. She travels the world, she rejects formality and she makes her own rules.
This light-hearted take on such a long-established garment is what gives it its democratic feel. Already well-loved in continents as diverse as Asia and Africa, it is seen worn by both men and women, further accentuating the beauty of gender fluidity.
“Pareo” is packaged in a special soft fabric envelope stamped with the iconic Miu Miu logo, as to leave the indelible mark of brand’s revolutionary spirit in our wardrobe.
Uniqueness is this skirt's keyword: no two people need ever wear it in quite the same way.
Ermenegildo Zegna Mayfair store – A modern tribute to tradition
London's Bond Street has been the home of the Ermenegildo Zegna's flagship store since 1987 and yesterday, after a lengthy renovation project, it re-opened its doors to the public. An ode to the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style, the new store is the product of a fruitful collaboration between Zegna and architect Peter Marino.
Among classic modernist art pieces that convey the timelessness of Italian style and design, a specially-commissioned wall tapestry by William Kentridge, provides a snapshot of the company's centennial progress. The South-African artist used portraits of the founder and elements inspired by key moments in the brand's journey, successfully bridging the gap between tradition and modernity.
Additionally, a nine piece bespoke men's shoes collection will be exclusively available at the London flagship store. Designed by artistic director Alessandro Sartori, models range from casual to biker boots – all of them inspired by nine personalities close to Sartori's heart. The Bespoke Shoe Collection represents the best in modern luxury while allowing the modern man to adopt an elevated approach to his individual style.
Toni & Niklas Garrn announce EQL
#samesamenotdifferent, the hashtag for sibling design duo Toni and Niklas Garnn’s EQL unisex collection in collaboration with Closed. Twelve exclusive pieces ranging from size x-small to x-large, offering sporty, chic and classic designs. Back in 2008 Toni Garnn started out modelling for Closed and sat behind the design table six years later. She has now joined forces with her brother Niklas to create the genderless collection, proposing contemporary, minimalistic and comfortable fashion. Following the current zeitgeist, with gender slowly fading, as well as always having swapped clothes, equality is an important topic for the Garnn siblings. “EQL stands for a particular attitude as well as for the lifestyle that we both live: sophisticated, uncomplicated, open and free,” Niklas says.
Louis Vuitton Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Women. Or like Nicolas Ghesquière likes to call them: Heroines. Powerful characters who conquer the scenes. Indisputable free and unique. Like Louis Vuitton’s ambassadresses – from Léa Seydoux to Alicia Vikander and Catherine Deneuve, Doona Bae, Michelle Williams – all present, attending the Spring Summer 2017 show. Nicolas Ghesquière delivered a collection of poignant femininity. An interest that he already expressed in the last Louis Vuitton book, the forth of the serie: “I like to see women walking, moving. To see how fabric falling in a certain way can enhance the body; the femininity that interests me is about energy and vitality”. Ghesquière woman is strong yet sinuous. Fluent dresses with midriff cutouts in jersey channelling that sensuous look, power boots as out of a manga heroine, or sheer gowns with padded shoulders hinting military epaulettes – fitting the Place Vendome scenic heritage, where the show took place. Generaless of conquest, witty, travelling – as rooted in Louis Vuitton’s spirit. “6 GIRLS 6 MINUTES”, the short film directed by M/M PARIS for Louis Vuitton just released to present the new collection gives a glimpse of that modern “Parisienne” attitude. A portrait of six different girls around the world in love with the French capital.
Céline Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
“All artists are alike. They dream of doing something that’s more social, more collaborative, and more real than art”. The words of Dan Graham resonate across the vision of Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring Summer 2017. The American artist, writer and architect created a spatial installation for the show, a work along the series of his “Pavilions”, where transparent partitions divide the space while enabling the view toward the world on the other side. Its sounds, the flaws. Céline collection for next Spring has a sophisticated urban vibe. It pictures a multitude of women as vast as the everyday city grain. The romantic overalls in mousseline peaking from pant suits. A practical cotton oversized shirt attached to a pleated skirt to form a midi dress. The unpredictable mismatched shoes. Different personalities. At a closer look the most incredible luxurious detailing emerge, as just we would expect from a fashion house like Céline: the perfectly balanced weight of a linen unstructured dress, the supple leather, the gentle unfinished look of raw hems. But they are clothes you can pick in a rush and wear with an effortless attitude. In some of the looks the styling is constructed to almost emulate that rush, with garments layered or tucked in each other as if there was no time to overthink. A smart woman who picks a timeless vintage bag preciously kept in the years. She walks through the harsh realm of everyday noise.
LOEWE Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The shore of an unidentified coast. Men swimming endlessly in a deep blue sea against oil barrels floating in the water. The unsettling vision of “Offshore”, the short video by Dutch artist Magali Reus, served as scenic element for Loewe Spring Summer 2017 show, giving that contemporary reference to a collection sophisticated yet sensual and fresh.
Jonathan Anderson created flowing silhouettes in black, off white, brown with a splash of fuchsia, blue, green, mixing a number of references from Japan to the Spanish heritage of the brand. Oversized long flared sleeves with leather waist cinchers as a revised contemporary version of a kimono obi belt. Long twirling dresses with bias cut, unfinished hems, the raw feeling of burlap, fringes and patchwork textiles masterly hinting to Spanish folklore.
The powerful broad collection of accessories with the most iconic bags of the brand declined in several new finishes and colours and accessories like the calla lilies on bracelets and ankles complete the luxurious atmosphere frame.
Anderson’s vision for Loewe is growing and becoming season after season more mature and daring, transforming in short time this label to a relevant player in the industry.
WUNDERKIND Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The Wunderkind woman has an elusive way about her, throwing her beat out of rhythm in such a way that she will never be caught. Credit to the off-center eye of Wolfgang Joop, who throws together the jagged references we see before us for SS17: prairie purged of all its hollow nostalgia, headed firmly for the future with foiled leather Western boots, op art silks and gauzy tulles so slight they trace the surface of the skin. Granted, the citations at play are erratic, but their ordering is anything but… Racer cuts quell their sporty sensibility by sheathing the body in ice white mesh, asserting its elegance with ruffled peplums and knife pleats, or romantic Victoriana smocks. Cold shoulder collared shirts gleamed in sparkly lurex, their billowing sleeves offset by the cinched waist of a peach swing skirt. Belts bolstered bodies with oversized buckles and austere cotton corsetry – a hard edge to the ruffled tiers that trapezed the torso, halterneck dresses neatly buttoned to the top while wraped layers unfurled from the hips. If the wild florals felt a little too predictable, Joop’s alternative vie for femininity felt entirely futuristic, inflating shoulders and sharpening hips to file his army of extra-terrestrial bodies.
Y/Project Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Presented in the suggestive location of the Lycée Charlemagne, Y/Project Spring Summer 17 was full of youthful energy. Glenn Martens presented a collection played around the boundaries of oversized and tight, low and high, light and dark. From his signature denim to the opulent crashed velvet. There were oversized sleeves, cut out pants with a detachable gather, and a multitude of transformable garments: adjustable corsets worn as a ruffled decoration over knits, pants you can just button up at the leg side, peek-a-boo shirts and long dresses to be laced up. It is a collection built to the last detail and Martens proved to be a master constructing layers played around volumes, a fun cool-kid attitude and a feminine subtle sensual vibe.
Fendi Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
It’s a habit of Fendi’s to disorientate its audience of time and place, warping history’s resolvable symbols so they can no longer be defined by date, resigned to obsolescence as recognisable relics of the past. For SS17, heritage harbored a hint of the alienesque, as Marie Antoinette aprons abjured their impracticality in favor of terse technical cuts. Fine pencil stripes stalked slender peplum blouses, cinched at the waist and bolted with a highway of plump covered buttons from navel to neck. Patch pockets punctuated the breast, their sensibility softened by the buttery cuts of sloped shoulders, even the most straight-laced starched cotton evoking the ease of the neighbouring gauzy silks. Rugby hoop stripes sat thicker, banded across scarlet crop sweaters, slit with an anarchist’s mind for modesty in spite of the prim powder-pink A-lines which swayed beneath. Apron dresses made a break from diaphanous tulles and brief bloomers, V-necks slashed at right angles from shoulder to sternum, as hems vied for a deep diamond, centering from the hip in towards the knee. All this technicality circuited to the finer details of the collection, models pallid but for pithy metal pouts, hair parted at the center with strands seeping into wispy pig-tails at the crown. History may have repeated itself, but you wouldn’t necessarily know it, not with Lagerfeld at the helm.
Moncler Boutique Macau Wynn Palace
The second Moncler boutique in Macau has opened at the Wynn Palace. The interior of the 130 mq store is developed by architectural firm Gilles&Boissier. Two large shopping windows invite the consumer in the Moncler sphere. Grey marble floors and white walls create a modern shopping space, which will sell Moncler Gamme Rouge Ready-to-Wear, Moncler and Moncler Grenoble as well as the accessories collection for men and women. The opening of the Wynn Palace boutique comes a year after the first franchise opened at the Galaxy Macau.
Acne Studios Emoji Collection
The latest capsule collection for Acne Studios embraces their playful side, as the garments are embellished with emojis. Classic staple pieces have been giving a slight twist by the quirky detailing of ordinary objects. Bananas, doughnuts and microphones are printed oversized on black and grey sweatshirts, while hot dogs are presented as a knitted pattern on sweaters and jersey t-shirts. Smaller accessories are a pig’s nose printed on the chest and square emoticons with thought bubbles. The collection is available now in store and online.
Swarovski Member of Fashion Council Germany
Swarovski is the newest member of The Fashion Council Germany, which was founded last year to be an advocate for and mentor to German fashion designers. One of these designers is Vienna-born Marina Hoermannseder, who has in three years gained fans like singer Lady Gaga with her orthopaedic corsets. Marina’s latest collection included a corsage and skirt embellished with crystals, which was made through a collaboration with six other designers who created a special collection using Swarovski crystals. The Council’s Chairman is Vogue Editor-In-Chief Christiane Arp, who said; “It is important to help design talent get more attention. We are delighted to have the support of Swarovski for our talent development initiative.”
Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Photography duo Santiago&Mauricio worked alongside Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti and stylist Davey Sutton for the Diesel Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign, translating fashion culture and creating a dialogue in a series of honest and humoristic images. As diesel celebrates difference and diversity, cast are a group of individuals with different cultures and personalities. “We worked with director/photographer duo Santiago & Mauricio to shoot beautiful ad impactful images where the product is celebrated with a twist on the traditional advertising images“, reveals Formnichetti.
A Surrealist Fantasy - Moncler FW16/17 by Annie Leibovitz
Surrounded by snow, inspired by the Nordic climate. Moncler’s ongoing collaboration with iconic photographer Annie Leibovitz produces a whimsical series of images for its Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, “A Surrealist Fantasy.” Leibovitz relationship with the French brand is founded on a shared view on creative experimentation, made visible in their latest partnership. Moncler’s FW16 Campaign is a collision of an imaginary and the natural word, which translates a surrealist vision.
Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Show FW16
A collection inspired by Italian actress Sophia Loren, Naples and tradition, Domenico Dolce reveals. The Dolce & Gabbana collection is shown on the streets in the middle of old Naples. A white satin cincture hung across the body, Miss Eleganza sewn in gold, a hint to how Ms. Loren first started out; in a provincial beauty contest. The collection includes shapely pencils skirts, wavy hems and fitted suits, all in true Dolce & Gabbana manner. The looks are completed with flower, heart and bow embellished headgear, and induced with some humor; one of the satin soccer shirts reads Maradona 10 on the back.
Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux’ Dior Haute Couture collection is predominantly in black and white, which is a reflection of their relationship; it represents history and modernity and while opposites, when together it creates something greater than apart. Dior’s iconic Bar suit, tailored jacket and full skirt see the Autumn/Winter 2016/16 collection go back to its origins. The skirt was the starting point, after which Meier and Ruffieux started experimenting with the lining, draping and pleating of evening dresses and skirts.The only colour visible is gold as embroidery, which is inspired by raw art and the works of César and Claude Lalanne.
Maison Margiela Artisanal Fall 2016
John Galliano has a much more personal understanding of Maison Margiela for its Artisanal Fall 2016, in which he experiments with a different take on haute couture. “A sense of the incredible and the impossible spins throughout the Artisanal collection, where fantasy is tempered by the jarring authenticity of today’s reality.” A satin orangza dress is draped around the models body, printed with Nick Knight’s British Birds (2008) styled with a cycling top, arctic blue gloves and dark brown clogs, her headpiece resembling a string of seashells. Another model is dressed in an upside down orange coat, worn over a navy shift dressed, paired with rubber-soled thigh-high black ‘Tabi’ boots.
Miu Miu Club members were invited to attend the-miumiu-club Paris exclusively for the celebration of Paris Couture Week, to view the Cruise collection and which also showcased the new autumn/winter 2016 campaign. Dirty Pretty Strings performed at the event, on the turntables were Paul Simonon, Kate Moss alongside others. The rooms with impeccable detailing, including the painted ceiling by Paul Baudry, were transformed into clubrooms such as a cinema, restaurant and show house. This was held in the Hotel de la Paiva on the Champs-Elysees, built mid-1800s as private residence for commissioner Esther Lachmann, also known as La Paiva. Miu Miu Clubs are also held in London, Shanghai, Los Angeles and Macau, China.
Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Models Simon Fitskie and Rianne Van Rompaey shine in the latest Bottega Veneta Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign, shot by Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen in Sicily, Italy. The collections dark yet dynamic colour palette consisting of royal red, peacock blue and black bounces off beautifully of the paleness of the background, artistic landscape Grande Cretto Gibellina of Italian artist Alberto Burri, which is in glistening white cement. Burri created the Grande Cretto as a monument for the village Giberllina when an earthquake completely destroyed the town in 1968.
MBFW: Laurél S/S 2017
The mix between the chic and the casual is key to the Laurél S/S 2017 collection, which was first shown at the Berlin Fashion Week these days, bringing summer to the city. Above anything the collection is stunningly summery. It is all about monochrome colours. A lush blue, yellow and red allow for primal colours to contrast different black-and-white combinations. Cleanly cut garments of flowing fabrics include light blazers, flared trousers, dresses with V-necklines and jumpsuits. There is the touch of a slightly ethnic feel to the collection, pronounced in off-shoulder tops and dresses as well as tassel earrings and pom pom necklaces. Highlights are a striped black-and-white beach ensemble with flared pants and a crop top or the filigree knitted floor-length dress with slits at each side revealing the model’s long legs. While the collection makes use of stripes and symmetric patterns, it finishes with a girlish white dress, incorporating a pattern of white flowers on a sheer fabric. This is how city girls celebrate the summer.
MBFW: Hien Le Spring/Summer 2017
Showcased outdoors in a beautiful courtyard this Tuesday was the Hien Le Spring/Summer 2017 collection, at Berlin Fashion Week. The collection draws inspiration from the sculptural process, converted unto the garments through layering, cut-outs and various transparencies. Proposed is an elegant yet sporty alternative garments made from light cotton, different kinds of silk and Japanese tech textiles. The collection is elegant in its meticulous tailoring and includes sportswear elements. Hien Le has for this collection collaborated with Mini Cooper and created a limited sweater line with heart-shaped prints.
BERLIN FASHION: IVANMAN SPRING 2017
Designer Ivan Mandzukic started his brand in 2010 and is definitely a force to be reckoned with. Main inspiration for IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2017, shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, is the 80s German film Baghdad Café. The latest IVANMAN collection provides, just as in the film, a collision of modernity, tradition and clashing world views. The garments are styled in layers, with long shirtsleeves poking out of jacket sleeves. The collection has structured jackets, classic cuts in trousers and tops and is contemporary in its choice of colours, as the blush, turquoise and white colour palette give a real sense of spring.
PFW: Kenzo Spring/Summer 2017
Cool kids squads. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim presented a collection once again inspired by their youth, growing up in LA and its West coast disco scene. The models arrived in packs. There was a lot of that grungy and rave look of the 90s. Departing from the Japanese tune of last season we see an explosion of youthful energy. In a badass attitude the model's walked the runway with high waist pants and shorts in nylon look a like textiles matching tops and shirt and often underwear pulled up above the waist with prints recalling the flyers promoting the artists of the time. Relaxed oversized coats and short jacket but also rain capes with hoodies underneath. Black and white but also lemon and cerulean blue. The collection shouted a multitude of personalities and styles, the freedom of youth.
PFW: VALENTINO SPRING 2017
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli revealed that for the Valentino Spring 2017 collection they were inspired by the “Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible” exhibition at the Met Breuer in New York, as it allows to see the artists’ development and creative process. This translated into the collection with some of the garments not being finished too, as thread hung from printed knits and stitches were loose. Nevertheless, this made for a selection of structured, luxurious appare. Military and camouflage colours as well as silhouettes start off the show which develops into denim and blue ensembles.
PFW: HERMES SPRING 2017
On the chart of fashion where every party tries to dictate the "extraordinary " and the "new", Hermès 's Mens director Véronique Nichanian focus on the essential and its unlimited power. Slim, simple, effortless are the key words for a collection entirely focused on a multitude of subtle details like only the house of Hermès knows how to. Sleek trousers combined with acid lemon t-shirt , hazelnut leather bomber jackets or architectural minimal coats in faint grey. Beautiful silk shirts and knits with tie - dye motifs together with relaxed sporty sandals indulge the atmosphere. Hermès's man once again plays a cool and elegant attitude.
Our Interview with Ancient Greek Sandal
Keep your eyes peeled for this sandal brand inspired by ancient Greek mythology and architecture, hence the name Ancient Greek Sandal. We met up with the Co-founder and designer of AGS, Christina Martini who started up the business with CEO and Co-Founder Nikolas Minoglou.
What is the philosophy of your brand?
Handmade sandals made from good quality leather in Greece inspired by Ancient Greece. Sandals have a raw yet feminine aesthetic, which would age well with time and wear.
What are the trends for this season that AGS suggest?
Bohemian and embellished lace up sandals with semi precious stones, glass beads, turquoise and corals. In addition to this, we have collaborated with the Mexican brand CARAVANA designing the ‘Tulum Collection’ which are iconic AGS sandals decorated with hand-painted feathers. Our collaboration with LALAoUNIS is also out, a precious collection of six bejeweled styles inspired by the powerful symbol of snake.
Why did you choose the ancient Greek civilization and what is attractive about that?
Because it’s in my blood! At school all Greek students get taught Mythology and Ancient Greek history and I was always fascinated by the visits in museums or archaeological sites. When I was young I wanted to become an archaeologist. Ancient Greek Sandals are inspired by the Ancient Greek mythology, art, architecture, jewelry and everything that is connected with that era. The inspiration is unlimited.
What are the materials you use?
Although the construction is made in Greece, all our raw materials come from Italy. For the uppers we mostly use vegetable tan leather whereas for the insoles and soles we use a thicker skin. For each collection we try to introduce new exciting materials such as the sunbeam snake or pony skin, stamped crocodile but also synthetic materials such as the glitter, fabrics such as the denim for S/S16.
Who are the celebrities that love AGS and what they love about them?
Michelle Williams was the first to wear the sandals in 2012 and since then a lot of actresses have followed, such as Naomi Watts, Anne Hathaway, Diana Kruger, models Gigi Hadid and Gisele Bundchen and singers like Rihanna and Beyoncé. I think like every other woman who wears AGS sandals; they value the simplicity of design, femininity, quality and comfort.
You designed shoes for Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton before setting up your own brand.
What did working for those big fashion houses teach you?
I don’t think that I would have set up my own brand if I didn’t work for these two huge fashion houses. First of all the technical knowledge, a big part of my job was to be at the factories in Italy and follow the making of the prototypes so I got to witness how the most luxurious shoes in the world were made, I learnt the different leather qualities and the shoe constructions. I also learnt a lot from the marketing team how to form a complete shoe collection that makes sense to the customer on the shop floor.
What is the ideal outfit matched with ancient Greek sandals?
Anything really, from a wedding dress to jeans shorts and from a long bohemian kaftan to a little black dress.
In which place in the world do you think AGS fit ideally?
Anywhere the sun shines!
PFW: BALENCIAGA SPRING 2017
Heeled boots and boxy jackets, Demna Gvasalia knows how to keep things interesting. The Balenciaga Spring 2017 collection, the brands first ever men’s runway show, exhibited on the beautiful rooftop of the Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague in Paris, saw structured silhouettes and wide shoulders in coats, trousers accessorised with lengthy silver chains and cropped shirts with elastic bottom. Gvasalia said that he “wanted a feel of formality, of perfection, to everything.”
MFW: PRADA SPRING 2017
“This idea of traveling, sharing, joining different cultures interests me”, Miuccia Prada reveals when the Prada Men’s Spring 2017 show has finished. This vision is clearly noticeable in the collection, as every model wears tribal hiking sandals and carries a heavy backpack down the runway. Active-wear is big this show season and Prada is not staying behind, as their collection includes bulging parkas and rain pants. It felt different for the brand, but it worked out brilliantly. Miuccia Prada added “I’m kind of finished with vintage”, therefore explaining the new direction the collection has gone into.
MFW: MONCLER SPRING 2017
Thom Browne has created a collection inspired by American Boy Scouts and camping for the MONCLER GAMME BLEU SPRING/SUMMER 2017. The presentation is divided in three groups, one in all-khaki, a group mixed with checkered forest green, brown and whites and a formal group primarily wearing brown and navy. The tailored pieces are made in technical fabrics the French brand is known for, with details created via mediums such as laser cut and thermo bonding, which gives the active sportswear/ outerwear collection a functional aesthetic.
MFW: PHILIPP PLEIN SPRING 2017
The PHILIPP PLEIN Spring 2017 collection takes it inspiration from American Basketball, complete with stylized basketball shorts and shoes, transitioning into embroidered denim, leather jackets and bombers. The German designer teamed up with Swarovski to embellish the collections sportswear pieces, creating a glam active wear collection. Starting off with hints of orange, the collection develops into solely black and white, and later back to red hues. Rapper Busta Rhymes performed, making it a real authentic PHILIPP PLEIN experience.
MFW: FENDI SPRING 2017
“Sun and fun”, Silvia Venturini said of the collection post-show. Rebuild is a Mediterranean villa, which results in an airy and fresh feel to the Fendi Spring 2017 collection. The garments’ details are whimsical and dynamic, the colours pleasant and lively. Pequin stripes are incorporated in a new way and the models are styled with travel bags and backpacks which indicated to the fun summer theme. Fendi has introduced its first men’s eyewear collection for this show in collaboration with Safilo.
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016/17
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2016-17 advertising campaign channels the house’s new mood, direction and elegance with a balance of tradition and edge. Pal Zileri chose world-famous ballet dancer Sergei Polunin to front the images shot by photographer Maciek Kobielski on location in Williamsburg, NY.
The Ukraine-born Polunin fully expresses Pal Zileri’s current identity and message with his balance of dramatic flair, strict artistic rigor and unconventional spirit. The new campaign is thriving to exalt talent with an unexpected twist. Soaked by a strong lighting, a fresh-faced and intense Polunin strikes relaxed poses framed by steel grids, modern props and a tonal palette of grays and deep blue that set off a contemporary atmosphere with an industrial touch. His bold and tattooed attitude adds character to Pal Zileri’s key fall looks, a mix of tailored pieces, luxe sportswear and exclusive details.
Theory l Pre-Fall 2016
When Theory presents the new Pre-Fall 2016 women and men collection this means that this winter has it all. Apart from the always smart and safe black, it also introduces more colours such as red, yellow, grey, burgundy and khaki. The collection is smart chic with coats, shirts, pullovers, light trousers and pleaded skirts and tops. Theory presents white as one of the winter colour in skirts, trousers, coats and shirts that gives the collection an extra elegance. The menswear collection is more focused on black, brown and grey in trench coats, coats, trousers and blouses. Jeans are always on fashion matched with smart jumpers. Theory introduces leather as the winter’s trend with the legendary biker’s jacket.
LC:M Craig Green
London born Craig Green showed his first collection for LCM through Fashion East and Topman’s initiative MAN in 2013. Now, three years later he is an established name on the London Collection Men’s schedule and recent winner of the BFC Menswear Fund. The bold new collection opens with fawn colours, transitioning into quilted jackets with rich prints and closing with black and white garments. Cords tied through eyelets are detailing elements and the colour-blocking trend is beautifully incorporated. The Spring 2017 collection also exposes some flesh. A slit coming just above the knee on wide-legged trousers, as well as some backless pieces, gives the collection a sharp edge. Added in the collection is a Scout scarf, which Green describes as a ‘symbolism of belonging to something.’
LC:M Topman Design
London Collections Men kicked off last week with launch parties introducing the four-day event on Thursday. Friday, Topman Design was the first to present their Spring/Summer 2017 collection. The line-up was a mixture of trends and styles, lead by pastel colours. Models appeared with wet hair and sun burnt cheeks, jumpers and shorts were embellished with ice creams, dolphins and palm trees, hinting to a tropical aesthetic and the idea of unwinding by the pool.
Marc Jacobs’ Resort Collection 2017
MTV logos and studs, bright pink colours and leopard prints. Leave it to Marc Jacobs to take you back to the 1980s in his Resort 2017 Collection. ‘‘We took Fall and made it kitsch and went from Youtube back to MTV’’, the designer, who won a CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award just yesterday, said after the show. Music track playing is of British popband Duran Duran and models were sporting scrunched hair and dark eye make-up, sticking to the overall feeling of 80s punk revival. The collection is loud, bold and feels retro and is refreshing since the 70s trend that has been dominating fashion and retailers over the last few years.
Versace and Bruce Weber, A Golden Match
Versace has collaborated with photographer Bruce Weber on their Fall/Winter 2016 campaign. Weber is not a stranger to the brand, as he is behind most historic images for the brand ever since they started working together in 1990. This time around the campaign features supermodels Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Dilone in different scenarios. One of them being an ultra dazzling and glossy life-style, the other a day-to-day stroll with the kids, a modern looking family. The images show the versatility of the items and thus making it relatable. Shot in Chicago, Weber has decided to include men and womenswear together. Donatella Versace speaks highly of the collaboration with Weber, as they haven't worked together since 1999, with the following; ”Bruce Weber is the true master of our time. His photography is deeply personal and rich, a reflection of the world as he sees it. It has been my pleasure to enter once again into that world for this Versace campaign. With this new campaign, Bruce gave me my history back.”
Peuterey Fall/Winter 16/17
Peuterey is a brand drawing on its stylish utilitarian heritage and sensing an epochal shift in the way real people react to it. It is an advocate for reality telling. Peuterey’s collection for Fall/Winter 2016-2017 focuses on personality and product. Piercing portraits and street shots are layered onto images of urban environments, suggesting an iconic melange that triggers the visual sensibility of the digital-savvy generation.
The campaign will debut in June with a maxi-billboard placed in Piazza della Repubblica, Florence. International brand ambassadors such as Blake Lively, Olivia Palermo, Jhoannes Huebl, Derek Blasberg, Sarah Jessica Parker, Amanda Seyfried, Aaron Paul , Felicity Jones, Tom Hanks, Leaf Greener, Jennifer Lopez and many more will further bring the message to a real audience. It will actually and factually hit the shop floor, both online and offline, with the collection distributed via top US department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue and leading stores worldwide such as Tsum. The brand targets also on the creation of dedicated partnerships, such as the collaboration with Miroslava Duma/Buro247 on a special jacket.
The campaign is shot by renowned lensmen Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, art directed by Giovanni Bianco and featuring models Marjan Jonkman and Filip Hrivnak whose unconventional beauty is fine tuned by a cast of top innovators of all ages. The campaign has a honest tone that contextualizes clothing within the frame of real life.
Chanel Cruise Collection 2017 Presented in Cuba
Hundreds of fashionistas in vintage convertible cars filled Paseo de Prado to watch Karl Lagerfeld making history with presenting his summer creations on the first ever fashion show on the island. Beach colours and souvenir T-shirts as well as optic white Broderie anglaise and summer tweed suits in lighter weight fabrics were some of the collection’s pieces. Lagerfeld was inspired by the ‘cultural richness and opening up of Cuba’ showing on the collection cabanas patterns and Chanel’s characteristic jackets in many colours while the Panama hats were the main accessorize of the show. Drummers, dancers and Karl Lagerfeld himself emerged to get the party started on the boulevard, as models jumped back into the convertible cars for the Insta-opportunity of a lifetime. Chanel gave every visitor a guide book and allowed them to get out and explore the country’s rich culture.
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
Daring and self-confident is Louis Vuitton’s woman as appears in the Pre-Fall 2016 Travel campaign. Louis Vuitton launches the Capucines and the City Steamer handbags and gives the handbags’ trend for the fall. The City Steamer bags come in new colors like black and pink with Burgundy piping and Black and White with honey brown handle. Even though The Steamer was first created in 1901 and it was the first supple bag, today’s modern heroine loves it since it has become a true city bag. The second handbag model we saw in pre-fall 2016 collection of Louis Vuitton is the Capucines; red and black leather as well as pink crocodile leather are the colours and materials that the firm suggests for Capucines bags. The Capucine is a discreetly elegant new signature bag that incarnates the Maison and its know-how. Both handbag collections take pride of place in Louis Vuitton’s Travel campaign. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier, has captured the dynamic profile of today’s woman in the face of the actress and Louis Vuitton’s new muse Léa Seydoux. Louis Vuitton campaigns continue their architectural journey by setting this last campaign in the Ranch, a building designed by the Mexican architect Luis Barragan.
BOSS Pre-Fall 2016
Rigorous, precise, focused. Natural, but abstract. Luxurious – and classic. With the Pre-Fall Lookbook 2016, Jason Wu has unveiled another cutting edge collection that comprises sophisticated looks with a modern and noiseless message. Whether it's with the slim coat, the A-line skirt or the pant, Wu re-engineers new classic into a contemporary wardrobe for the BOSS woman.
Business and leisure are balanced out equally, with a Hitchcockian flair contrasting the image of sportswear. As often, Wu is keen to incorporate a flair of menswear and does so in applying metal rings and fastenings, which simultaneously suggest a vibrant and energetic feel. Even if this collection is a red carpet for simplicity and urbanity, Wu still does not cease to go down a more lighthearted route and inserts floral patterns that in their assembly allude to camouflage.
The key element of functionality is furthermore not only highlighted in Bauhaus inspiration but also in flat shoes and other understated accessories. It's rigorous, it's precise, it's focused – BOSS just knows how to wrap a collection.
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2016 Eyewear Campaign
Cara Delevingne may have stopped walking the big runways, but she still has some of her modeling duties in mind – especially, if they involve her close friend Karl Lagerfeld. The British model stars in the new CHANEL eyewear campaign, which was teased by a flashing video released a few weeks ago. While the bespoke visualization presented a pair of unique CHANEL sunglasses adorned by a laser-cut quilt design, the campaign now shows a collection enhanced by more optics and sunglasses from the Plein and Bijou 2016 ranges. The Plein collection revisits models in a tie-dye optic, merging the colors from black to blue or white in the frame acetate. Bijou on the other hand focuses on a CHANEL code classic, the timeless camelia. Made from metal and enamel, it adorns the glasses in an abundance on their legs. Next to eyewear, the campaign also sees Delevingne sporting pieces from the CHANEL AIRLINES Ready-to-wear collection. A tweed cap and jacket and a grosgrain ribbon-bowed top complete her urban and contemporary CHANEL look, subtracting the need for a logo on the campaign pictures. Even if Miss Delevingne has abandoned the runways, we're still glad she makes time for her fashion friends – especially, if it's Karl Lagerfeld.
Gucci's Second #GucciGram
Since Alessandro Michele has taken over the reigns at Gucci, nothing the brand puts on the market is monochrome, monotonous or dull. Take their eclectic, era-spawning collections, themes and innovations, or, for example, the collaborative digital #GucciGram project. Launched in its second installment, the project now dotes upon the new Gucci Tian pattern and invited artists and online illustrators to interpret and rework their own style of the pattern. What arose from that is imagery featuring everything from blurry cats to butterflies in a jar to a floral skyline building and cartoon figures crossing the street. The eclectic, multifaceted spirit to this campaign was created by only Asian-origined artists, referencing the cultural background of the pattern itself. At the same time, the artworks refer to Western orientalist fantasies and 18th-century Chinoiserie. The final results will not only be shown across the artists' social media accounts, but naturally also on Gucci's instagram account and on an extra micro website. Gram it or talk it, if there's one thing that Gucci gets going, it's participation.
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2016
When a Creative Director departs his position at a well renowned fashion house, there is a certain fear that lingers in the air prior the presentation of the first collection without him/her. This was most likely the case at Lanvin's latest fashion show, where the gathering crowd seemed to hold their breath before the first foot was set on the runway. It was the debut reveal since the leaving of Alber Elbaz and certainly marked the start onto new paths and into new directions. These are led by a collective of designers that for the time being has taken over the seat left by Elbaz. What they presented was a collection defined by symbolic elegance, embodied by high-necked garments alluding to ruffled blouses of past eras and a broad spectrum of cuts and fabrics, ranging from 80s-cut, asymmetric shimmer tops to sheer, double layered lavender dresses. There are a handful of paths Lanvin could set upon, for this collection has no distinctive one to itself. There were ruffle-inserted dresses with floral print patterns, but also beaming golden trench coats and lacy ensembles. It seems almost as if the customer herself could select the direction of Lanvin - which prompts us to ask: what choice would you make?
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
They say all good things come in threes, and with Louis Vuitton, three seems to be the lucky number. Their latest Pre-Fall collection stands on three major pillars that are core to the Maison’s designs: neo-classic, elevated sportswear and the dream adventure. Beneath these summarizing definitions lays a collection that forms a complete wardrobe playing on androgyny and the fluidity of style. With Louis Vuitton, all things are fluid, such as the video shot by campaign photographer Karim Sadli, defined by energetic motion and movements. Such fluidity is supported by the actual designs that come across as confident monochrome looks. Color is not a theme in this collection, with only few sprinkled inserts highlighting shoulders or hips. Nevertheless, Vuitton plays with contrasts in tartan dresses, sporty legwear and a block-striped coat. According to the fashion house, this collection’s interpretation depends upon the point of view and personal prism of its wearer. And that’s the best thing about fashion: your wardrobe is your adventure. Welcome to Pre-Fall.
Paul Smith Women F/W 16
The Fall/Winter 2016 season sees Paul Smith once again turn towards the past. The British designer is the master of archive work and reinvention, and so it comes as no surprise that he applied it once again to his latest designs. The garments resemble a walk through an archive closet, with Paul Smith creatively picking his inspirations here and there. This time, they start in a very private closet: the one of his wife Pauline. Smith creates the image of a handsome woman with a nod to the sophisticated femininity he originally created from his men collections. Smith goes back to the 1970s and 80s, back when he was just starting out. From the latter decade, he takes the photo-print of an eaten apple and reworks it into prints, embroidery and appliqués in various scales. He also makes a halt at his own closet and takes on bicycle breeches. Those are met with raglan-sleeved coats and embroidered pleat dresses. Regarding accessories, the designer once again goes “way back”: all bags are equipped with new locks, taken from an old Paul Smith briefcase. Rework, revamp, refurbish – however Paul Smith does it, the journey to the past is always an exciting one.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Alexander Wang RTW F/W 2016
St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February: Marijuana leaves, pole dancers and chained leather are assembled in the church aisles. Coming from every angle are words like “strict”, “tender”, “girls”, “faded” and “violator”. This scenery is by far no church service, but the presentation of Alexander Wang’s latest Fall/Winter designs. Displaying garments anything but holy, the designer sent down the runway rebellious garments that set upon the popular “sloganeering”. Hats, sweatshirts, dresses and tights call out the aforementioned key words in this collection, crossing over both mens – and womenswear. Going along with that are fuzzy sweaters as much as see-through tops and dresses and more classic tweed ensembles. Still, Wang takes on a little bit of Prep with reinvented Argyle sweaters (with exposing parts, of course) and a checkered coat in menswear. Although we’re not sure what the priest would say about this, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February, the applause spoke for itself.
McQ F/W 16/17
While the world was buzzing with talk about fashion shows and the upcoming award ceremonies, Thursday, February 11th, 2016, saw the revelation of McQ’s new F/W 16 Digital Presentation. The date of the reveal lined up with Alexander McQueen’s sixth death anniversary, to which the brand had paid tribute before in a post on their instagram. It is also on their social media and website that McQ chose to release the campaign in an all-round digital presentation. Consisting of documentary photography by Caroline Södergren, character studies by Jack Davison and short films by Shorna Osborne, the campaign aims to highlight the collection at every angle. The designs themselves combine the brand’s rebellious attitude with ready-to-wear style that lets each item unfold in its own measure. Womenswear is influenced by Japanese culture, in particular the dance and strip clubs of Shinjuku, Tokyo, in the 1970s and 80s. Leather is a central player in motorcycle jackets and capes. Another reference to Tokyo is made in floral prints that were mainly inspired by Japanese kimonos. The go-to accessoire for the McQ Misses is the overknee boot, available in various colors and materials. Surprisingly, this is where the collection interlocks with the menswear designs: Mister McQ also sports overknee footwear, only for him laced up and thick-soled as in 90s culture. The menswear designs furthermore reference Phyllis Galembo's book MASKE which revolves around African tribe culture. In honor of fusing new and old worlds, McQ takes this to intertwine African patterns with its heritage Scottish Fairisle tartan. The McQ man is both the grown-up realist and the adolescent free spirit. The world might be buzzing about many things, but from Thursday on, McQ is up on the agenda.
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
Keta Gutmane S/S 16
Hello from the outside: for Keta Gutmane, their latest SS16 collection is all about observation. Observation for the label creates a dialogue and builds a bridge between those who belong and those who were once lost. At Keta Gutmane, the outsider is never forgotten. For the new garments, the designers took loose inspiration from one of the greatest observers of all time: filmmaker Wim Wenders. Adapted to fashion, this inspiration translates into a combination of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring. To break it down even more: long oversized coats float along with sharply tailored poplin shirting. Fitted slim pants are teamed up with confident woolen blazers, whereas graphic trenchs are paired with coated cupro skirting. To not confuse the aesthetic, the collection is maintained by deep black and white, only occasionally interrupted by an expressive dash of checkered tartan. In conclusion, the collection forms are casually tailored silhouette that leaves the perfect room for observation. May it be from the inside, or the outside is of no importance. As Keta Gutmane said, we're always in a dialogue.
Sandro F/W 16
For a fashion designer, a collection can be like a play. Different actors, different looks, different parts of the play – in other words, acts. French fashion label Sandro took this as a chance to divide their latest collection, their play, if you will, into such different acts. The first one throws it way back to 1980s Berlin, where anarchical urban structures drained romance through the industrializing reality. This message translated into fabric calls for a denim jacket pattern realized with suede, combined with yellow rollneck jumpers. Act two introduces a series of silk shirts, emblazoned with a chain print, to be worn with tapered trousers that are cut off at the ankle and feature a generous hem. A theatrical play would maybe suggest a break by now, but Sandro dives right into the final act: suits with wider collars break on boots and are complemented with black-and-wide check motifs on mohair knits. As the curtain falls, the label presents the last look formed by leather trousers and long cashmere coats in a variety of colors. Applause!
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Baldessarini F/W 16/17
Baldessarini caters to the confident man about town, providing him with classic and elegant wardrobe staples rather than trendy throwaways. Key to success are craftsmanship and high-end materials, combined with a sustainable production centered in Europe. By no means is Baldessarini’s FW 16/17 collection old-fashioned though: Yes, designs are predictably dapper. Why would you change a running system? Here and there, noticeably younger items turned the collection on it’s ear: rough leather pants, sheepskin jackets, sweats with smart jackets and ties all carried a youthful vibe onto that runway. Aside from sweaters, turtlenecks were big, worn under crisp button-downs or suits. For one-stop shoppers, the label offers a complete range including scarfs, gauntlets and hats. Stripes and checks livened up an otherwise muted color palette of black, grey, blue, green, oxblood and beige, adding some well-received youthfulness to Baldessarini’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin debut.
Vladimir Karaleev Fall/Winter 16/17
For his first show during MBFWB since July 2014, Vladimir Karaleev hit a high note with his intricate construction and easy breezy styling. His expertly crafted, sculptural designs were set in a presentation rather than a runway show – a no-brainer considering Karaleev’s pieces are more of an art installation than a nod to fast fashion. His FW 16/17 designs combine touches of cubism, mod-style and origami, resulting in exciting plays on volume, fabrics, and personal style. Each piece is in itself glorious and intriguing, yet full of possibilities in terms of combination. Grey, black, midnight blue and petrol, deep magenta, mauve and mustard could easily be overwhelming, yet Vladimir Karaleev has nuance and the masterful eye of an artist. Here’s to hoping he won’t hold out on us for another season or two.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Versace Men F/W 2016
Versace certainly isn’t only known but also loved for their eccentricity. For decades, the creative minds behind the brand have proved to be unlimited in their creative innovation. With the latest menswear collection, introduced at Milan’s Men Fashion Week, Creative Director Donatella Versace presented yet another take on their anything-but-quiet attitude. For the latest designs, the Italian brand shot off into space. It’s Versace-on-the-mars with futuristic metallic looks, astronaut-inspired sweatshirts and astrological prints. Additionally, the collection features all that is in style on planet earth right now: tracksuits, MA-1 jackets, cropped leather jackets and, of course, just the right amount of denim. “The Versace man is a pioneer, his ambition as big as the universe. This is a collection for men who are totally real, totally bold and totally connected with the future.”, Donatella Versace commented. Houston, we don’t see a problem here!
Antonio Marras F/W16 Collection
Cowboys, Indians, gold prospectors, saloon girls. Tumbleweeds, dusty roads, no life in sight, apart from a few wild horses, lizards and the occasional mosquito buzzing near your ear. We’re thinking of the Wild West, thinking of Colorado, maybe, or some nameless town in the outskirts of the US. We’re wrong. Antonio Marras has taken the latest collection to the West, but it’s not western at all: the location in mind is in Sardinia. Illustrating the picture of a rural ghost town, the brand reinvented the motif of the Wild West by dislocating it to the Italian south. Inspired by this abandoned place in Sardinia, the designs feature a new take on the cowboy look with mélange sweaters, plaid trousers and a lot of checks. Intarsia shirts and velvet trousers dislocate the traditional idea of Wild West as much as the actual location. They are teamed up with patchwork jeans or denim overalls, biker jackets or floral jacquard fabrics. Colors range from moss, forest and military greens to red and mustard, forming an eclectic mix for a collection that can’t possibly be narrowed down to one definition. There is no need for definition, though, as we know, that with a Wild West in Sardinia, the things are not what we define them as anyway. Open your mind to new definitions. Antonio Marras certainly does.
Marni Men Fall/Winter 2016
Marni’s Fall/Winter 2016 is a swift motion between balanced elegance and subtle rebellions against clothing classics. On one hand, the brand presents soft and elegant silhouettes and suggests intimacy with this collection’s number one theme: wrapping. On the other hand, raw cuts also convey strength. Suits are still precisely tailored and the use of fur provides some texture. Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a fashion collection by the first impression. Caps and sneakers that contradict the elegance of the garments make another break in balance. The collection’s color palette adds in elegance and subtleness with blues, greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. We told you it was a swift movement. And with Marni, you just go along easily.
Louis Vuitton & UNICEF: #MAKEAPROMISE
Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign line-up reads like the database of a Hollywood agency. For their #MAKEAPROMISE campaign, the fashion house collaborated with UNICEF to raise worldwide awareness for children in need and captured various darlings from the entertainment industry. Shot by Patrick Demarchelier at the sixth UNICEF ball in Los Angeles, the likes of Paul Bettany, Nicole Kidman, Léa Seydoux, Xavier Dolan, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Mariah Carey and many more posed with the “Pinky Promise” gesture, a symbol to assure commitment to the campaign’s goals. These include not only raising awareness to children suffering from humanitarian catastrophes but also providing actual help. The brand will collect donations through an exclusively designed product: the Silver Lockit (wristband or necklace) will have 200 Euros from its total price of 500 Euros be forwarded to UNICEF immediately. The campaign is set to be a long-lasting project and was developed by Vuitton’s employees. Having put an increasing focus on social media in their recent campaigns, LV and UNICEF once again ask users worldwide to share their #MAKEAPROMISE moment with a #pinkypromise post as a continuation of the movement started by the testimonials. Promises might be given out like free samples these days, but there’s a feeling that this one might just be the change. Agree? Show your pinky. Promise.
Burberry at London Collections: Bowie Tribute
Burberry’s London Collections: Men show didn’t only include their latest designs in menswear, but transformed into probably the fastest tribute to the death of David Bowie. Coincidentally, the day of Burberry’s presentation had also been the day of Bowie’s passing. Models presented the garments with glitter on their face and Bowie’s name scribbled across their hands. With 2016 being the year Burberry announced as the unison of its three lines London, Brit and Prorsum, Christopher Bailey and his team went through the archive and got inspired by multiple eras from the late 19th century to the 1970s. This collection’s lovechild was the track top, worn either as outerwear or layered under typical Burberry coats. Colors were as varied as ever, ranging from warm moss greens to neon reds. Of course, with Burberry always being one of the most anticipated labels to present at LC:M, Bailey didn’t disappoint and joined this season’s train of military inspiration. And with a portfolio that diverse, there is no doubt that Mr. Bowie up in heaven would have been proud.
Photos: Marcus Tond/indigitalimages.com
DIESEL Goes Emoji
The wink-face, the monkey, or rather just the thumbs up – what's your favorite emoji? Don't deny it, you have one. Emojis have become the new sign language, a universal communication system that everyone in the world can understand. Whereas other fashion labels in the past have taken this as an inspiration to paste the tiny symbols onto their clothing, DIESEL winks at us and creates their own emoji alphabet for their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. At first sight, the visuals are clearly an established fashion campaign – but with the slogan comes the twist. „It's complicated“ is adorned with little couple symbols while the expression „holy denim“ is reinforced by – of course – a praying emoji. For DIESEL Creative Director Nicola Formichetti, this campaign is a comment on our digital culture, the absurdities that define our on- and offline life. The digital world is more real than reality and has become a next-level superpower. No part is to be disregarded: the moving intimates visuals will also play on the world’s most important porn sites. The campaign's faces are also no strangers to the digital world and it's open-minded spectrum. Model Stav Strashko, who was born male but identifies as a girl, rejoices in the gender diversity now most prominent in the digital world. Singer Joe Jonas poses alongside his colleague Kiko Mizuhara and his band DNCE. Now where did Formichetti find this pool of beaming faces? Your guess is correct, online. We clap our hands to that. Not literally. The emoji. You know.
Nasir Mazhar FW 2016
There are few things as fascinating and endless as the darkness. Its space of interpretation appears to be as vast as the darkness itself. Inevitably, the inspiration drawn from the dark is equally as tremendous. London designer Nasir Mazhar took this as a chance to dive into the deep and uncertain – and returns with his FW 2016 collection. His latest designs imagine a club world of individual characters, unified by darkness. A group that shifts in varying shades of black. Black - a color that ties together wide experiments in shapes and textures. Apart from this floating unison, each outfit stays an entirely separate project. Whether it’s strapped tops, crumpled looks or extraordinary headwear, Mazhir’s collection leaves as vast room for interpretation as the darkness. He recalls the creative freedom of his non-commercial, purely creative beginning. An approach that has been featured for the second consecutive season, as long-planned changes for the brand are set to be revealed. Who knows what they’re going to be – as for now, we only know that Mr. Mazhar sure loves a bit of uncertainty. Just like the darkness.
Moschino feat. Gilbert & George: FW Men 16
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott might just be one of the most contemporary designers of our time. After having incorporated the world of fast food chains and Barbie dolls in his past designs, with the AW 16 menswear collection, he is onto the next collaboration. This time, only, it’s art. Scott met up with artist duo Gilbert & George and, after a round of tea, was granted full access to their artworks for the new Moschino collection. The designer jumped at the possibility and therefore included everything he could: the new designs feature collaged coats, knit cardigans and jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. Typography, words and phrases have also been taken along. Other garments are peppered with crucifix patches that refer to G&G’s 1982 art piece “Youth Faith”. According to Scott, everything in Gilbert & George’s work speaks to him, from the saturated colors to the slogans and provocative attitude. Well, this could just be a match made in heaven.
Neutral Party: Richert Beil FW15
Gender neutrality is the design world’s (current) darling. Labels little and large are trying their hand at unisex apparel, but that doesn’t mean they’re any good at it. So often it’s an indiscriminate approach they take, meeting the needs of many but flattering no one. But men and women are approaching a mid-point from two very different starting points; the solution cannot be one-size-fits-all. No, it takes a skilled eye and strident instinct to tailor a collection to both sexes with success – that’s where Richert Beil comes in. The brainchild of Berlin-based designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the label lauds an erudite aesthetic irrespective of gender, sympathetic to the structural, social, and emotional subtleties that have so far mantled man and woman. Ankle-grazing slacks prove a universal staple – smart with a sexy sensibility. Knits take neutral but directional dimensions, sweaters understated in their elaboration, chunky tabards tossed over stitched skirts. Longline macs layer their enduring appeal over culottes, kilts, and tunics, while coltish calves are slicked by black stockings and bolstered with sturdy leather lace-ups. Now there’s a style to suit all.
Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2016 Collection
It’s time for the next Pre-Fall revelation. Next in line is the Italian master of tailoring, Giorgio Armani. Titled “Bohemian Rhapsody”, the new collection features everything from city chic to floral bohemian vibes. That’s right, it’s not all dreamy and mysterious: Armani stays right on track of time while referencing his own unique style with a cheeky wink. The Pre-Fall collection resembles the closet of a very stylish clique, with each member sporting her own, unique look. Very much the latest innovation comes in form of cut-just-above-the-ankle legwear, optionally also featured as cuffed pleated trousers. While certainly this supports a “city” vibe, floral dresses and fuzzy artistic coats bring the splash of bohemia. After all, variety is key. With this collection, Armani also keeps things quite casual – flowing valance dresses are combined with flat boots. If you opt for a more eye-catching look, check out the garments with shiny pinstripes. Finally, the collection is rounded up with the one fabric that should not be missing in a fall collection: elegant velvet. Now, without a doubt, we would love to have a look in that clique’s closet, too.
Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
CHANEL’S City Western SS16 Campaign
To be honest, the fashion world is spinning so fast that sometimes, one has trouble to keep up. Think CHANEL. One minute, we’re still reminiscing about their iconic airport show, the next we’ve already taken off! Destination: Wild West, but also the city. The latest SS16 campaign combines both: CHANEL’s City Western. The French brand premiered the new RTW and accessories campaign with two mini feature films. In it, models Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz take on the empty streets of Brooklyn, New York. Their favorite travel accessory: the “Coco case” cabin case. The main collection’s visuals were shot by Karl Lagerfeld himself and feature ethereal and colorful silhouettes. Montero and Arganaraz wander about in eccentric print combinations, oozing sophistication and effortless coolness. Functional-but-chic accessories that range from the all-essential cabin case to floating silk scarves complete their look. The only thing missing? A stylish lasso, maybe. It’s the Wild West, after all.
Givenchy Launches SS 16 Campaign
New York, I love you! This declaration has become the inspiration for Ricardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy creation. The Spring/Summer 2016 campaign is his personal “Love card” to the city. Shot by Mert & Marcus in, of course, Manhattan, the campaign indeed focuses on love and our personal relationships. Following the three main messages Love, Gang and Family, the imagery features group photos of both new faces and Givenchy veterans. Clustered under the Manhattan sky, they present signature black & white looks with timeless elements such as lace and pinstripes. And, to reference love again, each picture is decorated with a handwritten quote by singer Anohni: “I am a child on the river and love waits downstream, a waterfall to steal my breath and change my mind”. Ricardo, we love you, too.
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
DKNY x New Museum Host Intimate Miami Beach Dinner
In celebration of a new partnership December 2, 2015, saw DKNY and New Museum host an exclusive dinner as part of the Miami Beach Art Basel. As guests were top names in fashion and art, they included the likes of Lisa Phillips, Shelley Fox Aarons, Dominique Levy and Karen Wong. With creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, DKNY is collaborating with the art institution to further advocate women artists, as the New Museum has made one of its top priorities over the past 38 years. “The New Women’s Project” brings focus and support to the exhibitions and commissions of five women artists this coming year. Not only this, but DKNY will become the Lead Sponsor of the New Museum’s spring 2016 exhibitions, including solo exhibitions by Nicole Eisenman, Goshka Macuga, Cally Spooner and more, whilst overseen by Massimiliano Gioni, Artistic Director of the museum.
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Say Goodbye to Blood Diamonds
“All human beings are born free and equal in dignity”. It was December 10, 1948 when the U.N. proclaimed in Paris the “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” (UDHR). However, there are countless places in the world where basic, personal rights are not respected in any way.
Gilardy Jewels aim to tackle this head on and produce beautiful jewelry that does not come with the usual price tag of someone else’s integrity. In celebration of the UDHR, they create timeless pieces to be worn by everyone, from anywhere on any occasion, whilst supporting various organizations that fight for human rights, such as Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. The Gilardy Human Rights collection consists of rings, charms, wristbands and bracelets, all made in a robust stainless steel. Free of nickel, this jewelry is extremely dermatologically friendly and its rings and engravings are manufactured by fairly employing disabled workers. Furthermore, for every ring or chain sold from the collection, Gilardy Jewels donate 5€ to the “Human Rights Watch" Organisation, for every bracelet they donate 3€. All in all, this unique label is giving their wearers something to be proud about, fine handcrafted jewelry that is complete with a conscious.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Rick Owens Unveils New Hollywood Boutique
With the aim to create something truly “Cecil B. Demille worthy”, a 450 square meter warehouse on La Brea, dating since the 1920s, has been renovated with the help of Owens’ long time architect-of-choice, Anna Tumaini.
Together they have created something outlandish and abstract, in a tribute to the epic biblical movies that Owens watched as a child. He claims these movies have proved huge to be huge sources of inspiration for him throughout his life with “doomed heroic purity in black and grey draped robes in huge, dusty marble temples”.
In representing this imagery, the La Brea boutique contains high ceilings, huge angular beams and the label’s signature fog glass tank, which by engulfing the room fills it with “a billowing ejaculation of fog every 5 minutes”. Not only this but there is also Owens’ own dramatic reinterpretation of a swimming pool that tantalizingly releases slow motion bubbles…The boutique is located in L.A. after all.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The virtual age is taking over and Louis Vuitton is yet another label this season choosing to comment. Unlike his contemporaries however, Nicolas Ghesquière’s opinion is not one of doom or disaster but ferocity and strength.
Absorbed in a cyberspace setting, the look was digital and fierce. Military inspired leather jackets worn with metal textured mini skirts and chained platform sandals introduced a new wave of punks. Patchwork trousers with silver zippers reappeared throughout the show in various forms, whilst beaded knitwear provided a kind of protective armour.
The classic Louis Vuitton print was splashed sparingly on jacket sleeves whilst the ruched drawstring bag in look 45 proved a real stand out in the accessories and no doubt a must have this season.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It’s clean lines, geometric shapes and sleek silhouettes at Hermès this season.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski recovered the label’s heritage in bringing back leather once again this season in various midi length skirts, coats and dresses. Trainers appearing in white, blue, ochre yellow and red will surely prove to be a hit in store, not to mention the tailored longline coats.
Oversized stone jewelry adds drama to the understated collection, whilst Vanhee-Cybulski’s beautiful palette of colors elevates this understated collection to the height of Spring/Summer elegance.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have transported us to the heart of the Meditteranean Summer with their latest line for Kenzo.
A decidedly young collection, it is packed with crop tops, bodysuits and mini skirts, not to mention their brilliantly reimagined 90s waist bags. Accessorizing with ornate jewelry and contemporary, gladiator-style thigh high boots, Lim and Leon elaborately mix occasions in each look whilst exploring bold tribal prints in vivid colours. The end effect is busy, but a cheerful one at that.
Comme Des Garçons Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Ready-to-wear” is not a phrase that means much to Rei Kawakubo. The enchanting “witch” collection from the most anti-commercial label in fashion wass both baffling and exciting.
Silhouettes were magnificent, with ruffles and feathers galore. Shoes were stereotypically “witchy” pointed boots whilst deranged hair was coloured vivid red to offset the dramatic looks.
Luckily, Adrian Joffe was on hand to explain more, with the idea of witches referencing “Powerful women who are misunderstood, but do good in the world” – potentially also referring to Kawakubo herself.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Lo-fi, sci-fi” is John Galliano’s latest collection for Maison Margiela. An eclectic assortment of references, the designer’s otherworldly show saw the union of the vintage 50s, a futuristic space age and traditional Japan.
A turquoise beehive, leopard print collar 50s style coat and silver make up à la Pat McGrath; it began with a psychedelic bang. Next came fishnet limbs, appliqued glass fragments with an over layer of mesh. All oddly ready to wear for Galliano, we were later introduced to his reinterpretation of kimonos. Liquid-look skirts dripping in applique grazed the ankles and appeared among beautiful prints and obis in creating kimono-style silhouettes… This enthralling collection has the Galliano stamp all over it and it is spectacular.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
In a surreal Parisian show, “Le Nez Rouge” came complete with ginormous balls of fabric, a barefooted child in a man’s shirt and the designer himself leading a horse down the runway.
The collection itself was outstanding. Heavily deconstructed suits resulted in asymmetric lines and contemporary shapes in the label’s signature style. Crisp shirts and tailored trousers appeared in the designer’s trusted palette of navy, white, grey and red.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
If it was blue last season then it was orange this one at Emporio Armani. Well with a majority neutral palette throughout, he ended the show with a vibrant orange, evocative of a summer sunset.
Continuing with a casual trend to his clothes, this line sees a fluid transition from androgynous looks to decidedly feminine ones, from eighties inspired power dressing to nineties sports-inspired leisure wear. With the adoption of a number of shapes, a stand out are the ruffled suit trousers that cinch in with a belt buckle.
Blumarine Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
A jewel encrusted, court-studded, floral print explosion of sheer netting, draped fabrics and relaxed jackets is occurring at Blumarine this season. Anna Molinari has let her imagination run wild and created a collection in which two worlds collide, those of surrealism and reality.
Take billowing satins or sheer printed skirts against simplistic ribbed jumpers and oversized coats. This fusion of ornate decoration and modern minimalism creates a look of ethereal elegance finding its feet in an urban world.
Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Seemingly having had sourced inspiration from a documentary depicting one man’s travel through Western Australia, the undertone to Gaia Trussardi’s latest collection is of exploration and survival.
Longline jackets and shirts sail over matching linen trousers, all with distressed raw edges, appear as though they have withstood the harshest of elements of a desert. There is patchwork, layering and leather all realized in a warm, earthy palette and slouchy silhouettes.
Amidst all of this, Trussardi is having a somewhat vintage moment, with beaded dresses and waistbands and a nostalgic pendant necklace featuring in every look. The culmination of which is a collection fusing roughness with luxury, a novel interpretation of shabby-chic.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Opposing retro at all costs, Karl Lagerfeld implies that there are no references in his latest Fendi collection. The puffed up sleeves, the high neck collars and the repeated latticing are puzzling... With coral, oversized leather sleeves and a pleated maroon skirt that flows to the ankles, I can’t decide if we’re in the eighties or the Renaissance, with look 16.
Lagerfeld incorporates a diverse number of silhouettes, fabrics and colors into the collection and more often than not with this one it really seems as though they shouldn’t work together… Somehow though, they definitely do.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
As promised, Philipp Plein has delivered another rock-pop spectacle with his show at MFW. Studded boots, a robot-backed Courtney Love performance and Black Swan style tutus, it is Terminator meets eighties Rock God and conjures up memories of his SS16 menswear line.
Leather biker jackets, emblazoned with patchwork badges reading quotes like “GOD SAVE HIP ROCK”, are covered in his signature studs and teamed with slinky metallic dresses.
With technology being a key ingredient to this collection, models walking the catwalk as if on a conveyor belt… This was of course after a robot had accessorized them.
Replay Footwear Launch Online 24h Shoe Design Competition
In collaboration with Desall, a digital startup boasting an international platform of 60,000 creatives, Replay Footwear have announced a shoe design contest to extend their current shoe line and design their “24th shoe”.
The urban, unisex shoe must reflect the Replay brand DNA and must be of an original, unique design, appropriate for 24/7 use, with a monetary prize at stake. Replay fans can follow the competition and vote online at Replays Facebook and Instagram pages. Prospective entrants must personally subscribe to the Desall platform to participate in the competition. The contest ends in November.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Open shirt-dresses peeling off model’s shoulders, undone fastenings and asymmetric hems overtly hint at the inspiration behind this season’s Proenza Schouler Collection.
Indeed, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough claimed it was “a peeling banana” that influenced the label’s luxurious ready-to-wear line. Makes sense doesn’t it? Already a clever collection, its combination of interesting shapes, textures and colors make it a beautiful one too. Mix in some ruffles, pom poms and feathers, and you are left with an ultra-feminine, contemporary line with a hint of Spanish influence.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Madame Tussauds may as well give up now, as the candle replica of Karl Lagerfeld is quite brilliant. His iconic look of dark shades, signature white collar and black top button is perfectly captured in this amusing homeware delight… Perfect if you feel you need a little Karl in your life/cupboard.
Co-designed by John-Paul Welton, the scent itself is naturally inspired by all things Karl. Delicately spiced mandarin surrounds the top notes of cinnamon, whilst it’s center includes soft jasmine and orange blossom fused with cardamom, nutmeg and tobacco. Cedar and teak wood, musk and amber finish up at the base of the luxuriously elegant scent, ultimately embodying his very character.
“Candle Karl” has found itself on shelves in limited edition at the Maison and Objet Paris and is available to preorder in store at Karl Lagerfeld.
Acne Studios Embrace Change with Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Adopting fashion’s recent shift away from gender distinctive clothing toward current trends of gender blurring and androgyny, Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has featured his 11-year-old son Frasse in the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Shot by Viviane Sassen, the ad sees the preteen football fanatic tottering about in heels and a number of coats from the new womenswear collection – looking unnervingly cool whilst doing so.
In a recent statement, Jonny Johansson said “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather than seeking approval from society or to follow set norms.” The outdoor ad will appear in major cities New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong.
PARIS XVIE: A Short Film for Dior Homme
Yesterday saw Dior Homme unveil its latest collaboration between artistic director Kris Van Assche and photographer Willy Vanderperre. “PARIS XVIE” is a short film exploring what it means to be this season’s Dior man, with actor Boyd Holbrook guiding us through a day in Paris.
Wearing a tuxedo whilst exploring the depth of Paris’ urban landscape, Holbrook is charmingly confident. Playing a harmonica as he wanders through the streets and picking up flowers as small souvenirs, his pensive expression draws a certain curiosity about him. Toward the end of the film, as a nod to the stylized, cinematic screens of Hollywood, we see him dance around the room and walk under the lights of Paris at nightfall… A clever mix of old and new, this season’s Dior man must be witty, romantic and self-deprecating. PARIS XVIE is online now and accompanied by a still image campaign.
Tiger of Sweden Jeans Pop-Up Store in Central Copenhagen
Just this afternoon Tiger of Sweden / Jeans opened a brand new pop-up store in the heart of Copenhagen. Landing in perfect timing for Fashion Week, it stocks the Tiger Jeans A/W 2015 collection for both guys and girls. This collection exudes the brooding edge that Tiger of Sweden Jeans prides itself upon, using a combination of “minimalistic expression with a dark, dreamlike print” in creating looks.
According to Fredrik Folkesson, who is Product Manager for the brand, Tiger Jeans has evolved massively over time, since its birth in 2001. After departing from the larger fashion family, Tiger of Sweden, Tiger Jeans has used it’s cooler, more urban reputation to become one of Sweden’s’ leading jeans brands.
The store opening today in Copenhagen is the first to date that sells exclusively Tiger Jeans, and reflects its’ growth to an established Fashion line.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Herr von Eden v MÜHLE Shaving Culture
Together with MÜHLE, Herr von Eden is launching a set of premium-grade shaving accessories for all men with an eye for quality and style. Good taste and an attention to detail are perfectly combined in this elegant shaving kit. Timelessly and traditionally crafted, the shaving set consists of a high-quality shaving brush with a handle made of resin, in combination with a low-maintenance synthetic fiber — the Silvertip Fibre ® - a MÜHLE innovation. In addition to this highly constructed kit, the aloe vera shaving soap ensures a thoroughly enjoyable shaving experience — for the cultivated gentleman.
Guess: His & Hers
Forget everything you know about denim. Guess’ slogan challenges you to ponder the age old adage of ‘no denim on denim’ with their denim capsule collection. Who doesn’t like to shake up the rules every once in a while? Well forget everything about what you’d think a denim suit would look like – Guess throws all the rules out of the window and presents the tailored denim suit… and nails it. The collection showcases the customization of the sophisticated suit, where Guess presents a complete reversal of this thought-to-be fashion faux pas. A top to toe denim suit . A sexy one. For both him and her. The tailored denim items will be available from September 2015.
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Balmain Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain man is definitely memorable. A reimagination of the twentieth-century adventurer, Rousteing evokes the essence of a contemporary city explorer. Though perhaps not as practical as it is aesthetically pleasing, the throwback headpieces, khaki belted jackets and pocket-heavy pants are the results of a certain military pragmatism and an appreciation for the classic cuts of the 1900s, refashioned with the modern man in mind. Indeed, as Olivier Rousteing’s first menswear collection for Balmain, the collection is decidedly statement-worthy, and iconic in the way that it neatly reflects the iconic qualities of its inspirational figures – the traversing scientists and aristocrats of old.
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Creative director Andreas Melbostad presented the Diesel menswear collection in industrial surroundings during Milan Fashion week. With a reworked safari garments, the Diesel Black Gold man is irrevocably modernist and utilitarian. Textured and layered, the collection conjures and image of an urban survivalist. Safari pockets are teamed with survival jackets and cool color palettes, echoing a contemporary tailored collection.
Kenzo Resort 2016 Collection
The unifying pillar of the Kenzo Resort 2016 collection is its nod towards the modern-day woman on the go. With the universe at her feet and a yearning for functionality, Kenzo provides the sartorial relief for a woman in need of comfort paired with practicality and elegance. With subdued prints and flowing fabrics, the collection is made decidedly versatile with its soft, natural color scheme. Camouflage greens, stone greys, pale violets and beiges make sure the Kenzo Resort 2016 garments fits into any setting.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Industrial cuts, classical in nature yet futuristic in look is the order of the day in the recently revealed HUGO BOSS FW 15 campaign. Laced with crimsons, the pervading grays are elevated from classic to edgy, safe to bold. Artistic Director Jason Wu brings to the campaign a cemented Berlin feeling in his refined layers of anthracite felt.
Featuring Clément Chabernaud and Edie Campbell, this ode to Wu’s structural vision is reflected in the photographic work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, directed by Stephen Galloway. The collection tells a story through the play between structure form and a striking palette of black, red, camel and gray.
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
CHANEL, Pharrell & Lederhosen
The Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign stars CHANEL veteran Cara Delevingne, tour-de-force musician Pharrell Williams and the now seasoned runway walker Hudson Kroenig. Taken by Lagerfeld himself, the campaign features the collection’s trademark knits, knee-high lace-up boots and lederhosen.
Pharrell Williams, who will be awarded the CFDA Fashion Icon Award at this year’s ceremony, looked suitably at ease in the pieces inspired by the Hamburg-raised Lagerfeld’s roots. By combining the traditions of the region with a touch of Haute Couture, the collection evokes in the viewer connotations of a contemporary von Trapp family.
The collection will be available in boutiques and on chanel.com in June.
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Miu Miu: De Djess
Miu Miu has been celebrating femininity with the short-film series called Miu Miu Women’s Tales. This time, Alice Rohrwacher was given the chance to write and direct a film about the power of women. The film follows the story of several dresses that arrive at the shore. The main dress, also the lead in this particular film, has a different story to tell.
For some reason, the film has a slight Wes Anderson feel to it. There is some kind of uniqueness in the way the actors move, in art direction and communication. Even though the language used in the film is made up, it communicates the message clearly. Rather than giving you all the right answers, Rohrwacher makes you want to ask more questions.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Fendi Launches a Digital Boutique
Fendi has just launched their digital boutique. You can now have the experience of visiting a Fendi store whenever you want. Whether it’s a holiday or the middle of the night, you’re always welcome to look around and see the latest capsule collections. The brand is offering you a 360° experience, where service is of high importance. The boutique is open in Europe for now, but the US and Japan will follow later this year.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since Nicolas Ghesquière took over the steering wheel, Louis Vuitton has been traveling into a slightly different direction. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, he has found a way to add some of that Parisian rock ‘n roll into Vuitton’s classic luxury.
Biker pants and jackets were combined with short dresses in flower prints, finished up with pointy heels and low, black boots. The looks felt casual and laid-back, but none of them lacked flare.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, Donatella Versace is giving us exactly what we have expected. Fur, over the knee boots, cut-out fabric and glitter. We saw full looks in primary colors, next to eye-catching graphical prints. Short dresses were bedazzled with rhinestones and covered with the Versace name. All of this gave us the feeling that Donatella was introducing us to a Bond girl from the sixties.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci womenswear is everything we hoped for. Ultra feminine silhouettes and colors, perfect pleats and refined craftsmanship show how he was the right choice for Gucci all along.
Michele’s goddess is an unexpected one. She is the girl in your class you never paid attention to, the one who sat in the corner of the room reading. By introducing her, Michele is applying a new kind of sexiness to the Gucci style. Buttoned up shirts with bow ties, long and thick fur coats and medium length skirts and dresses are combined with see through lace tops. Her outfits are slightly mismatched, which gives her a certain charm that we haven’t seen at Gucci before. At least not like this.
Floral dresses, pleated metallic skirts and silk blouses point at a commercial collection. Almost every garment is easy to include into any existing wardrobe, but still manages to bring extra allure.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Design Museum London x Akris
click to play "Fashion Power Travel" video
Albert Kriemler, the creative director of Akris, has designed a capsule collection for the travelling woman. Inspired by modern businesswomen, he created eight items that are practical, comfortable and at the same time very stylish. Each garment is created in such a way that everything fits into a carry-on, and can be pulled out without ironing. It’s about travel and effortlessness, which is precisely what we need.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
J.W. Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Designers are a divided bunch; there are those who are disciples of beauty, and those who are disciples of thought. And then there’s J W Anderson – an exceptional master of both.
A single glance affords inescapable parallels to fashions past; flared legs and fluted cuffs belted by square psych pilgrim buckles and paired with spread lapels. Some might think it a perverse indulgence in all that’s ugly – a severe case of cacophilia – making a fetish of all that causes the skin to crawl. Brown leather trenchcoats bedecked, effeminate bodies – bare save the bolster of a chunky knitted choker. Giant daisy buttons dotted the chests of beige duster coats like girlish gingerbread men, but hyper-bland. Taupe conquered again, this time stretching over languid limbs as a slinky elastane number, tediously dreary and yet ripe for the disco.
Shearling suede coats were reconfigured as mod bombers, tight to torso while 90s bootcuts flared. Leather received the lurid treatment, emerging as cherry-red trousers and violet-stained jackets, replete with the delightfully repulsive silver ring zipper. Knitwear was, likewise, unashamedy plain, monotonous in mushroom bar a tubular roll of crimson to pipe a cartoonish turtleneck. The effect was that of a marvellously lacklustre Jetsons – the color turned down to a brilliant beige. As for a patchwork of fashions past, how could such a futuristic reference be nostalgic?
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Fred Perry Gary Hume Blank Canvas Collection
Continuing to collaborate with iconic British artists, fashion brand Fred Perry have announced their Gary Hume Blank Canvas Collection.
The collection will consist of three screen printed shirts based on original Gary Hume artworks. Chosen to enhance the classic Fred Perry shirt the artworks Spike (2006), Exclamation Mark (2004) and Blue Collar (2013) have been selected for their simple yet striking aesthetic.
Describing Fred Perry as "the uniform of the smart, disgruntled youth" Gary Hume is a successful English painter and printmaker famous for his work in London during the 1990s. The shirts will be available for men in Laurel Wreath collection stores and online from August 2014.
The Neo-Neoclassic Diesel Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Incorporating Diesel icons, leather rock ‘n’ roll, denim and military – utility, the Fall/ Winter 2014 Diesel campaign entitled ‘The Neo – neoclassic’ comprises of an exciting amalgamation of dynamic imagery and explosive backdrops.
Modelled by actors, models, musicians and internet stars, the campaign fuses the classic with the contemporary to create something distinct and spirited whilst adhering to a ‘new vision of the brand and ‘the forming of a new kind of tribe’.
Formulated by Nicola Formichetti and Nick Knight, the images capture the sleek and distinctive Diesel collection and showcase ‘a new form of Diesel’s alternative spirit’.
Marina Hoermanseder at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Frank and provocative best describes Marina Hoermanseder's designs. Hoermanseder was one of the finalists of this year's Start Your Own Fashion Business awards and had the audience gasping at the first glimpse of her SS15 collection. This time around the 28-year-old Austrian focused on a particular way of leather treatment. Bags, corsets, dresses and skirts were made from belt-like leather elements, which Hoermanseder combined in a herringbone fashion. The resulting shapes and patterns were interesting and quirky with loads of sex appeal. But Hoermanseder does not simply make clothes, she creates stories and discourse: a high-necked nude leather poncho stiffed the model’s movement and covered chin and mouth, silencing here in a way we attribute to veiling.
At the same time the design bared most of the models lower body. Another stand out was an anatomically correct torso-corsage, which suggested the model to be a naked mannequin. This avant-garde SS15 showcase stuck to feminine natural colors, such as nude, coral, soft yellow and apricot, which added to the surreal and disturbing vibe of the collection. Hoermanseder’s mix of cheery, bright pieces and surreal details set the mood of David Lynch’s Twin Peaks universe, where nothing is quite what it seems and reality and dream are indistinguishable – social commentary included.
Vladimir Karaleev at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Sporty, sporty is the way to go for Vladimir Karaleev. His show for SS15 paired opaque and see-through fabric for light and fresh summer ensembles. Colors are reminiscent of a poolside session - sandy creme, rich shades of blue, sunny yellow, berry hues as yummy as a raspberry margarita, and forgiving favorite black. There is more than meets the eye to Karaleev's looks and it needs a second and often third take to fully grasp the inventive cuts, fabrics and patterns of his designs. Surreal, patchwork-esque even, best describes the SS15 collection in which he sows different color and texture fabrics together right down the middle, reuses scraps of fabric to create prints and patterns, yet manages to never turn clownish in the process. That is true craftsmanship and a unique POV.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
If there is one point of critique about Daniel Blechman's SS15 collection, it'd have to be that he has not yet ventured into womenswear. SOPOPULAR has quickly become a fashion pack favorite during Berlin Fashion Week, leaving female guests extremely jealous of the urban, purist menswear looks. The current collection, called "Wasteland", sticks to black, white and gray, mixed with quiet wooden and dusty prints. Military elements could be seen here and there. Singer Ben Ivory composed a song of the same name as the collection, that set the tone during the presentation. Inspired by tribes and gangs, Blechman send bermudas, biker jackets, blousons and tunics down the runway, all the while paying close attention to his design's sustainability. And now some of those cool pieces for the ladies, please.
Perret Schaad at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
It's already been Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad's 10th collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. For their SS15 presentation, the dynamic duo drew inspiration from the French Riviera. The contrast of down-to-earth Southern France and its exciting Mediterranean charm resulted in pieces that are perfect for a day at the Côte d’Azur. The label interpreted SS15's trend color blue in combination with light hues. Surprising details such as outside stitching and laser-cut details add to the collection's modern vibe, and thereby turn the otherwise tedious rush hour during summer time into an imaginary stroll down the Corniche.
Patrick Mohr x Reebok Classics
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Sportswear brand Reebok teamed up with designer Patrick Mohr to create an incredible collaboration that is testament to the designer's Goth aesthetic and the sportswear giant’s core values. Renowned Reebok styles such as the Ex-O-Fit Hi and the Womens Freestyle Hi - two classic high-tops - were designed by Mohr unison with his dazing style. Luxe materials and textures from calfskin to ostrich leg and salmon skin with a little rock star attitude in the form of studs mark the, collaboration. Mohr's colors of choice here are ubiquitous black and loud purple. The collection collaboration will be available exclusively at Solebox, Berlin, and online.
Julian Zigerli at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
photos by Getty Images
Swiss design genius Julian Zigerli had the honor of opening Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Following showcases in hip and urban spaces around the city in past seasons, this comes to show how well appreciated the quirky designs are in the midst of the usual New Objectivity that reigns among most of the city’s designers. Inspiration for his SS15 collection came from his father’s philosophy, „life is one of the hardest“, which serves as the title for the collection.
The collection intends to depict a wonderful, dark and crazy world from the POV of a stressed nine-to-fiver, who steps out of his everyday monotony into a world he can’t quite fathom. However, he still indulges in the uncertainty of things to come. Zigerli sticks to what he knows, and once again masters prints to the fullest. This time they were done by hand in an actual physical environment by using foam, rather than designing them on a computer screen. The collection’s color scheme stems from the CMYK color palette.
Zigerli’s focus remains on designing cool - at times kooky - contemporary clothing. For SS15 he sent out soft sportswear and bright two-toned suits. Vibrant tones and the experimental foam prints brought sass to the runway. Constructed cut outs, half sleeves, freely flapping loops of fabric and peek-a-boo gaps, showed off the designer's fresh and cheeky approach to fashion. Zigerli also incorporated head-to-toe patterns, such as camouflage or chevron stripes, which took center stage on swimwear, sweaters and summer suits, making for easy breezy summer styles.
Atelier Versace Haute Couture Fall 2014
Not shy of the Avant-garde, the Atelier Versace Fall 2014 Haute Couture show adhered to classic Versace extravagance. Exaggerated, powerful shoulders graced snazzy jackets, excessive fringing was incorporated onto jackets, dresses, trousers and gloves and leg revealing slit dresses were covered in shades of deep blue, purple,black and white. Buckle detailing was placed onto dresses, jackets, skirts and tops producing a strong aesthetic and colored fur coats and sparkling glitter made for a flashy and dramatic finale.
Trussardi Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Photographed by postmodern photographer Roe Ethridge, the Trussardi Fall/Winter 2014 campaign deconstructs traditional fashion images and explores new and creative visuals.
Featuring the Trussardi greyhound, the images use a cutout effect to creatively combine human arms and legs with images of greyhounds. The campaign focuses on chic Trussardi accessories that comprise of fine leather and excellent detailing and puts them at the forefront of the inventive campaign shots.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Located on the Vasquez rocks north of Los Angeles, the HUGO BOSS 2014 Campaign showcases men's and womenswear in a simple yet strong set of images.
The tranquil and scenic desertscape background is juxtaposed by the powerful and authoritive stance of the models and provides the ideal scenery for the sleek and striking clothing.
Photographed by Pierre Debusschere, the campaign is accompanied by a video which highlights the progressive looks in the Fall/ Winter 2014 collection and displays Debusschere's talent for producing inventive and innovative images.
Kris Van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Sleek and innovative, the Kris Van Assche Spring 2015 Menswear collection presented an originative and stylish compilation. Suits were skillfully reinterpreted; trousers and shorts had slits at the knees, white shirts were worn with cut off neck ties and hoodies were worn underneath blazers. A distinctive pale blue pattern was seen on shorts, trousers and suits and metallic suits were worn with printed shirts, the result was a sharp yet fresh amalgamation.
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Described as "a woman's journey through her dreams and her deepest sensuality " the Blumarine Fall/Winter 2014 campaign incorporates timeless femininity and the wistful allure of a traveller in a sensuous mix.
Set in a modern Japanese Ryokan, model Thairine Garcia is embellished with traditional far east prints, precious silk dresses and flower decorations. The softeness of the clothing is juxtaposed by vivid atmosphere of the setting and the exotic backdrop provides a dreamy and tranquil ambience.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Transcending from polished and dapper suits to 90s style loose, light blue jeans and classic white trainers, the Dior Home show provided a suitable aesthetic for the modern man. Suits were decorated in striking prints and jackets and jeans were embellished with logos. Effective layering was applied to striped vests worn under blazers and striped t - shirts worn over white shirts. Casual yet chic double denim provided a quirky alternative to the suit and shiny, patent blazers added something unique.
DENHAM store Berlin
Amsterdam store DENHAM famous for being 'the jeanmaker' will open their first stand alone store in Berlin Mitte.
As well as the seasonal ready to wear collections, the full range of premium 5 pocket denim will be available across the 117sqm store. The store launches after the success of the 14oz pop up in the Blue Yard shopping center which will serve as an anchor to the standalone DENHAM store.
The new store will also feature DENHAM's signature on site sewing repair concept with a denim wash service also being offered. Already popular in the Amsterdam and Tokyo stores, this service will give customers a personalized and unique shopping experience while adhering the the DENHAM ethos. Complying with the brands modernist and rich vintage aesthetic, the new store will feature key retail fixtures and fittings and will celebrate its opening on Tuesday 8th July.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an artistic amalgamation, the Valentino Spring 2015 Menswear show incorporated vintage style prints on shades of elegant brown, taupe and silvery grey. Interesting print were mismatched on silk fabrics that gilded down the runway and metallic, patterned suits were accessorized with hand held leather bags and slip on leather sandals.Relaxed sweaters and long coats were layered over silk shirts and patchwork butterfly motifs and plant embroidery was emblazoned onto jackets; the result was a vintage influence on a contemporary aesthetic.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A creative amalgamation of geometrical black and white lines was offered at the Emporio Armani Spring 2015 Menswear show. Totalling 91 looks, the impressive collection was suave yet innovative, conventional yet modern. Long black overcoats that emulated night gowns were paired with striped shirts and white leather loafers and buttoned up sweaters were worn with straight black trousers and monochrome flatforms.Carrying a futuristic essence, the collection fused sports luxe with sleek sophistication, thus producing a timeless and original combination.
Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Bright and bold prints and patterns were accompanied with beige garments in the Dsquared² Spring 2015 show. Small, artistic images were printed onto shirts, jackets and trousers and bold badges were placed onto denim jackets and shirts. Modern and colourful designs were placed onto white t - shirts and worn with flat form sneakers and colour blocked sandals. Adding an air of sophistication, long beige overcoats were styled over buttoned up denim shirts and fitted trousers but the quirkiness was brought back through two toned bucket hats and bright stripes placed onto beige jackets and trousers.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Prada's neat and defined Menswear Spring 2015 collection incorporated womenswear in a slick amalgamation. Suits with the seams clearly outlined were paired with sharp shirts and sandals. Colours and materials were effectively clashed; dark blazers were combined with striped shirts, beige sweaters and coloured trousers with long patent leather overcoats placed over. Clashed patterns were styled with chic blazers worn over sweaters and sleek metallic suits exuded sophistication. The womenswear, showcased alongside the menswear adopted a similar aesthetic with patterned sweaters clashed with patterned pencil skirts and worn under patent leather overcoats and straight , mid length dresses emblazoned with the seams outlined.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Keeping to nautical tones, the John Varvatos Spring 2015 menswear collection combined well-tailored blazers with fitted trousers and loosely wrap around scarfs. Cool silvers, whites and greys were integrated with earthy browns to create a casual and cosmopolitan style. Excellently tailored and incorporating an amalgamation of textures and detailing, the collection provided a sleek and characteristic combination.
Bally at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Keeping it simple yet sophisticated was the obvious mood at the Bally Spring 2015 runway. The lines were kept clean, the tailoring was finished impeccably and the accessories were kept to a minimum; plush leather oversize bags and black sunglasses. The colour palette however, was adventurous and bold, deep turquoises and burgundies covered jackets, dark beige was used on leather jackets and rich dark blue on trousers. The fourteen piece collection exuded refinement whilst adhering to a modern style.
Vivienne Westwood at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Sporting ‘Moral Outrage’ emblazoned t – shirts, Vivienne Westwood’s activist views were not left out of her Menswear Spring 2015 show. Westwood created a truly experimental and theatrical collection with distinct, unbuttoned shirts being worn under bright, deconstructed blazers, farmer-esque top hats and frayed cowboy – style denim. The show was eclectic and in keeping with the activist undertone, models wore pink pig snouts, Westwood not only exhibited a striking and skilful collection but used the runway as a platform for her environmentalist beliefs.
RAW for the Oceans wins Grand Prix
Denim brand G – Star RAW’s collaboration ‘RAW for the Oceans’ has won the Grand Prix award for Product Design at Cannes Lions Festival. As a long-term creative exploration between G-Star RAW and Bionic Yarn, ‘RAW for the Oceans’ innovates denim whilst impacting the plastic pollution in our oceans. In partnership with The Vortex Project and Parley for the Oceans, the initiative is culminated in G-Star collections and made from Bionic Yarn.
Offering solutions to the issue of ocean pollution, the project aims to tackle this problem through highlighting innovative product design. Described by President of the Cannes Lions Festival Jury, Donghoon Chang as “the Holy Grail”, G –Star RAW’s campaign underlining denim innovation presents sustainable and functional fashion that is to become part of the collection’s design.
G – Star has produced another revolution in the denim industry and Chang goes on to characterize their campaign as a stand out for “form, function, innovation, and a commitment to sustainability and social responsibility.”
G-Star and Marc Newson
Denim specialist G – Star RAW and industrial designer Marc Newson celebrated their decade long working relationship with an insightful event at the Design Museum in London.
Experimenting with art and fashion, an iconic piece from the collaboration is the Reversible Tour Jacket. A changeable bomber jacket with features including a compilation of graphic patches, grey silk sateen and a black quilted back.
Renowned for their stylish collaborations between art and fashion, the duo’s collections have expressed architectural constructions, streetwear references, and premium fabrications.
Australian born Marc Newson is a multi-disciplinary artist and has been described as the most influential designer of his generation. On speaking on his relationship with G – Star, Newson expressed “I think it is admirable that G-Star has the vision to embrace one industry’s ability to learn from another. They understand that design is a way of a company differentiating itself.”
The event took place on 11th of June and the G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Anniversary Collection for Fall/Winter 2014 is available from 1st October 2014.
G-Star Raw Seasonal Highlights
Focusing on dark, chic and stylish denim, the G–Star Raw Fall/Winter collection offers a large range of men’s and womenswear in a sharp selection of coats and finishes.
Varying in textures, materials and styles, the collection comprises of classic G–Star pieces as well as modern interpretations of the denims. Sophisticated and elegant yet contemporary and edgy, the collection can be worn layered or alone to create a sleek and polished aesthetic.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2015 Collection
A compilation of bright colours dominated the Louis Vuitton runway at the Cruise 2015 show. Mismatched colourful prints and patterns were illustrated onto structured silhouettes and heavily embellished pieces were worn with distinctive patterns.
Consisting of a series of well put together outfits, the collection presented bright high waist fitted trousers, slick zip up dresses and eccentric matching suits. Lace was incorporated, softening up the strong and bold lines and adding elegance, whilst shiny and structured leather coats offered a powerful yet polished aesthetic.
Immaculately put together and refreshingly original, the collection embodied vibrancy whilst remaining exquisitely stylish.
CHANEL Cruise 2015 collection
It was print and pattern extraordinaire at the Chanel Cruise 2015 show with mismatched and intriguing shapes and styles and all out artistry. Big hair and exquisite makeup flawlessly complimented the heavily embellished attire, producing an extravagant yet stylish look and a chic colour palette.
Daringly experimenting with shape, pattern and texture, the collection provided lavish holiday dresses, a mixture of glitzy precious and costume jewellery and tailored pieces emulating the classic Chanel suit.
Showcased in Dubai, the collection gave a theatrical essence and emanated luxury through metallic trousers, moon headdresses and beautifully crafted sarees. Models including Lindsey Wixon and Malaika Firth emulated princesses as they wore textured harem pants and all in one patchwork pieces.
Modern and fearless yet still adhering to a classic Chanel aesthetic, Lagerfeld has fused the modern with the classic and the Arabian with the elegant.
WOLFGANG JOOP launches Eyewear Collection
In time for a stylish summer, fashion label WUNDERKIND have launched a new online store that will present Wolfgang Joop’s sleek new eyewear collection.
Coming in four unique and equally chic models, each with individual colour combinations and creative styles, the sunglasses have individual names representing their original shape. Deriving from Wolfgang Joop’s print creations of current WUNDERKIND collections, the hand made and high quality sunglasses are an ultra-mod fuse of distinctiveness and elegance.
Available at the new WUNDERKIND online store and at all WUNDERKIND boutiques as well as an exclusive selection of shops and department stores worldwide, these cool yet classic sunglasses are available to everyone and can be found at www.wunderkind.com/shop.
Tiger of Sweden Fall/Winter 2014
Inspired by timeless rock and roll icons, the Tiger of Sweden AW14 collection epitomises a sleek yet edgy style that is polished without losing the rock and roll roots.
Offering a compromise between sophistication and spirit, the collection uses layering, exciting combinations and a neutral colour palette to create a distinctive and effortlessly thrown together aesthetic.
Seeking inspiration from Robert Redford's cult figure from the movie ‘Three Days of the Condor’, the seventies influenced menswear embodies this inspiration through heavily layered suits in brown, mustard yellow and black leather and tailored suits worn with long oversize overcoats and smart brogues.
The womenswear collection comprises of a balance between “classically feminine parts and a more pronounced leaner, more masculine silhouette”. Based on black, the colour palette incorporates more feminine tones of powder pink, light grey and deep turquoise and fuses minimalism with dynamism.
Established in 1903 and redefined in 1993, the traditional brand has reinvented itself to become a modern and exciting label that offers contemporary, sleek and stylish fashion for both men and women.
Replay: Replay One Off
Italian fashion house Replay have launched a collection entitled Replay One Off for Fall/Winter 2014 that epitomises strong, edgy and playful fashion. Consisting of both men’s and womenswear, the collection is effortlessly sophisticated with a casual and laid-back edge.
The men’s collection references sportswear pairing thick, quilted duffel coats, relaxed hoodies and jersey chinos whilst still remaining cosmopolitan through clean, structured lines, fitted denim and smart brogues. Equally chic, the womenswear uses high gloss leathers, shiny metallics and luscious fur to create a powerfully sleek collection for the modern, urban women. Sharply cut black bikers combined with classy, tailored trousers exude hip sophistication while lavish fur pieces are contrasted with deconstructed denim to produce an easy-going edginess.
As a denim specialist, Replay One Off puts a particular emphasis on the jeans throughout the collection, using both classic black and blue denim as well as providing a smart element through added leather, tech fabric and brocade appliqués. Claiming to be “a collection all about innovation and experimentation”, the clothing caters to the young and stylish consumer whilst producing an individual and playful aesthetic.
Diesel Jogg Jeans Presents the A-Z of Dance
If you thought denim and dance were like oil and water – two incongruous concepts that are never to coalesce – think again, for Diesel puts an end to the notion the notion with one fell swoop: the all-wear Jogg Jeans.
A hybrid of 21st Century design, Diesel's new Jogg Jeans cherrypick the best elements of jeans and sportswear to arrive at material that sits somewhere between denim and sweat. A circular weaving technique affords 360° stretch, while the cunning exploitation of deceiving indigo dye plays the ally to the sweatpants' artful guise. Drawstring waistbands take comfort further still, all the while providing a stylistic alternative to the commonplace button. Side stitching and coin pockets, meanwhile, ensure all artifice is kept incognito. An eclectic menu of styles caters to all manner of tastes, whether skinny or slouched, ankle-skimming or bagging at the knees – bleached, black or bullet-holed. The comprehensive collection also extends to shorts, jackets and jumpsuits – ever exquisite, but made markedly more malleable.
To paint the proficiency of their most dextrous pieces yet, Diesel and i-D have taken the opportunity to teach the A-Z of Dance in the form of an exclusive video directed by Jacob Sutton. The Soul Step team of Rick Owens' notorious SS14 show, Northern Soul star Levanna McLean and Nicole 'The Pole' Williams of Rihanna's Pour It Up video are but a few of the 26 acts to feature in the film, in which an illustrious cast performs the cult dances for which they are renowned - animate and unperturbed in a wardrobe of Jogg Jeans. Thanks to Diesel, there is now no occasion for which denim is a bad fit.
The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier from the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibition
French Fashion extraordinaire Jean Paul Gaultier will have an international exhibition dedicated to his life work that will allow us a vast insight into his remarkable fashion world. A notable name in the industry, Gaultier is known for his challenging approach to fashion and redefining the dress codes of masculinity and femininity.
The exhibition showcases the variety of world cultures which are amongst Gaultier’s most dominant inspirations and displays his most revolutionary work in an interactive and audio-visual form. From Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour costumes to the attire of the characters in Pedro Almodóvar and Luc Besson's The Fifth Element, the exhibition showcases Gaultier’s life work and wealth of collaborations in an interactive and theatrical format.
Inviting us to experience the world of Jean Paul Gaultier, the exhibition features around 140 haute couture and prêt-à-porter outfits as well as detailing the journey from sketches and inspirations to the fascinating runways, costumes and avant – garde designs that made his name inextricable with the fashion industry. The exhibition will be at the Barbican Centre from 9th April – 17th August.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2014
Grungy and gothic 90s it girl was cleaned up in Glenn Martens’ debut collection for fashion label Y/PROJECT Heavily layered, oversize and floor length pieces added an element of exaggeration to which Martens’ harmonised with clean, architectural lines and exciting, body hugging ruffles on sensual sheer dresses and tops. Modern, sleek and clean cut lines paired with ultra-fashionable all black ensembles adhered to grunge while white and grey pieces provided a sleek modernity.
The clothing epitomized versatility; oversize black bikers were thrown onto slim fitting dresses paired with black patent pumps, ruffled turtle necks combined with leather trousers and matching suits worn under uniquely cut coats. Stating that “Today a woman has to be adaptable, she has to be modern… be flexible in any situation and I think this collection tries to follow that.” Glenn Martens created a dark and sophisticated collection that complied with the desires of the contemporary woman by providing equilibrium between the laidback and the refined. He also experimented with texture, materials and cuts to add to the eccentricity of the collection while staying true to the brands urban lifestyle composition.
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Space like silhouettes mixed with fishing style thigh high green boots provided an interesting yet stylish combination at the Jean Paul Gaultier FW14 show during Paris fashion week. The just landed to earth from space theme continued with large headpieces, glitter leggings and metallic silver high boots before transcending into full blown dark silver space suits. London’s Punk rock scene was referenced with the amalgamation of tartan, Mohawks and leather. The collection continued to seek influence from London with large union jacks seen on bomber jackets, floating skirts, matching top and trouser combinations and short dresses.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Fur was the material of choice at Alexander McQueen’s deeply dark and mysterious FW14 show. Adhering to the inspiration of ‘wild beauty’ the show was set in a seemingly derelict and deserted garden and showcased large jet black oversize sweaters and coats with fur detailing around the edges. Extravagant all fur hooded coats with matching boots and black and white long fur coats were displayed on models with doll like white painted faces. The show finalized with a compilation of straight textured figure hugging dresses that scraped the floor, it was dramatic yet demure.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
All of the drama and theatrics you could wish for were at Yohji Yamamoto’s fairy-tale esque FW14 show. Bright and flamboyant makeup was accompanied by extremely stylistic hairstyles and duvet like large black overcoats whilst bright and vibrant graphics were painted onto all black pieces. These experimental and unique graphic designs continued with large florals and heavily layered black pieces added a lavish sophistication and weighed down the exaggerated theme of the show. It exposed us to a more bizarre and outlandish winter wardrobe.
Christophe Lemaire at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Strong utilitarianism was accompanied with soft knitted wool and a subtle elegance at the Christophe Lemaire FW14 show. The largely navy blue, cream and black colour palette combined with relaxed silhouettes to create a casual yet professional chic. The simple colours and clean cuts were mixed with the creative use of layering to produce a simple and classic collection.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Powerful, strong utilitarianism was presented with the signature intricate Balmain patterning and experimental combinations were worn alongside stripes of leopard print at the Balmain FW ’14 show. The collection was fearless in its obvious extravagance and daring in its combining of jungle style zebra and leopard prints with bright yellow and orange furs. Hip hop style was referenced through all black leather and gold hoop earrings and an inventive rope like texture was used to create unique dresses and tops.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A bright pop of colour provided an exciting accompaniment to a fall/winter aesthetic during Dries van Noten’s Paris fashion week show. Clashing geometric patterns highlighted the designer’s innovative approach to using prints and sportswear references alongside bright floral prints provided a diverse winter wardrobe. Transcending into a darker colour palette, the show concluded with luxe metallic striped pieces, luscious black fur and space girl style sparkling silver.
Day 2: Fendi, Prada and Moschino at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Opened by Cara Delevingne wearing a long black overcoat with a hood flamboyantly lined with black fur and carrying a miniature Karl Lagerfeld, the FW Fendi show boasted an extraordinary range of colours, textures and excessive fur. Pairing thigh high black boots with oversized printed sweaters and large coats accessorized with luxurious fur, the show captured edgy elegance in a dazzling array of black, brown, deep blue and orange.
Asymmetrical prints and structured silhouettes personified dominance while bright reds seen on dresses and patent boots exhibited seductive femininity at the Prada FW ’14 show. Sharply tailored blazers were lined with lush fur and sheer long dresses were worn with multi coloured, patterned underwear. Sailor style was referenced through gold lined grey overcoats worn with bright red scarfs and exaggeration was incorporated through brightly colour clashed fur coats.
Fast food meets fashion made for an intriguing mix at the Moschino FW ’14 show. Models graced the catwalk in archetypal McDonald's emblems and colours of yellow and red and CHANEL detailing was incorporated to fuse quirky and classic. The collection transcended into hip hop chic where bags embellished with the words ‘Moschino’ were used as necklaces and lavish fur coats were sported alongside metallic gold jackets, gold chains and glitzy black bomber jackets. Jeremy Scott’s innovative use of SpongeBob prints and cereal box inspired dresses made for an eclectic show that referenced modern as well as youth culture.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014-2015 creative director Andreas Melbostad took it's spectators on a futuristic Science Fiction journey. On first sight, the collection seemed to be inspired by cosmic space suits and Smart Wear, but on closer inspection the brands typical elements were eminent: denim and leather, accented by zippers, multiple buckles and mirrored metal discs. Dominated by a rather monochromic colour palette, metallic surfaces and silvery laquered fabrics perfectly matched with neoprene, quilted leather and lightweight jersey. But also the choice of classical materials such as merino wool and 'Prince of Wales‘ highlighted this marvelous collection.
'8 Pieces' by Claes Iversen
Claes Iversen is proud to present this season's graceful collection: '8 Pieces‘: a tribute to the brand's signature of authentic couture, the luxurious use of materials and an eye for detail. The eight looks are made of high quality fabrics in bright colours and tailored in fragile, female silhouettes. Elaborately embroidery techniques of beads, crystals and sequins are combined with laser-cutted plexiglass shapes and compose floral patterns.
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 2014
Under the dome of the Grand Palais in Paris on tuesday morning, Karl Lagerfeld‘s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014 surprised with a young and youthful défilée. Accompanied by melancholic orchestral sounds of French singer Sebastien Tellier, a rotating stage with mobile walls revealed two staircases and it seemed as if his mannequins would just enter the legendary Cambon Club.
Chanel‘s elegant looks had sporty and young elements. Whether cropped boleros and belled- skirts or transparent, sparkling dresses or the classical Chanel costume -one thing was for sure- the sneaker was the main shoe. Some outfits in girly cream pastels were even worn together with knee pads, elbow protectors and bumbags and underlined the youthful attempt. The show ended with Cara Delevingne's final appearance in a transparent T-Shirt shaped wedding dress.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
During the first part of the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2014 collection, it seemed as if Kris van Assche was touching a more nostalgic and romantic part of himself. Tailored pinstriped suits were adorned with lily of the valley-embroideries and brooches representing heirlooms of the house. But gradually the modernist in Kris came to the surface as he began to play with these very classical elements. The pinstripes varied in thickness and the flower-motif was manipulated so that it almost became an camouflage-print. This fresh air of youthfulness was fortified when blue jeans were added to the looks with five-pockets, shirts and a great parka. The same was done with army-green. This collection can be considered as an evolution of the Dior house in it's entirety as Homme remains the cool and modern menswear brand, but at the same time the mens- and womenswear are gradually finding each other again. With Kris van Assche at menswear and Raf Simons at womenswear, the two Belgian head designers are both looking at the past of the house, but only to push it to horizons it has never been.
Melinda Gloss at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mathieu de Ménonville and Rémi de Laquintane of Melinda Gloss made a contemporary silhouette with loose shapes and sharp tailoring for their Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Subtle ski-references were made with headbands, elastic hems and big parka's. The color palette was dark but deep with bottle-green, grey and purple.
Hien Le and Baby-G at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Traditionally, Hien Le’s show kicks off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This time around the designer partnered up with Baby-G, re-interpreting the classical model of the watch brand - with the wristbands almost cut from the same cloth as Le’ s designs and therefore being the perfect addition to the collection’s looks. The collection in itself was rather bold in shades of Bordeaux and petrol, considering Hien Le’s usual affinity to intriguing designs in muted colors and patterns. That is not to say that Le strayed from the usual grays and nudes.
For fall/winter 2014/15, wearable pieces for both sexes were made from wool, cashmere, leather and silk. Hien Le’s choice of music was maybe just as bold, with Kanye West blasting from the speakers the second the lights went off. Once again, Le put forward game-changing looks and ideas.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The setting for the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2014 show was a fenced basketball field, a literal reference to the main inspiration of the collection. Riccardo Tisci used several trademarks from the sport, like the orange hems that reminded of the Knicks, seams from basketballs and marks used on the field. Other influence for Tisci was the Bauhaus movement, which explained itself in the lines and big bands used as pockets on pants and to gather fur vests.The overall impression was very street, with some posh exceptions. Take for instance the classic sleeveless jersey that was made of fur rather than nylon mesh. Most outings fit right in with the Givenchy-vocabulary but the newness of the collection were the outings that consisted a wide, slightly flared pair of trousers and a knee-length slim coat.
Boris Bidjan Saberi at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The poetic collection Boris Bidjan Saberi showed for this fall and winter came from his vision on the Ottoman Empire and Topkapi architecture. At the same time it was the designer's most essential collection to date, taking his aesthetic and perfecting it with refined tailoring. The balanced collection sported some more athletic details like rucksacks and sneakers as well as subtle prints and long wraps, nonchalantly draped over sharp leather jackets.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Dries van Noten looked extra confident today when he took his bow after the Fall/Winter 2014 mens presentation. And why wouldn't he? His past seasons have not only gathered him raving reviews but also a loyal fan base and he just delivered another stellar collection. Instead of exploiting the formula he is known for, he took his core and moved on. There was still an aloof and bohemian spirit to the clothes, but Dries infused it with decadence from the sixties and seventies and more surprisingly: neon. Tie-dyed pants and jackets, victorian blouses and furs were all energized by colors as fuchsia, green and lemon. New was the graphic patchwork on flowing parka's and biker jeans.
Walter van Beirendonck at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The soundtrack to Walter van Beirendock's fall/winter presentation was Gesaffelstein, a young DJ from France known for his aggressive and loud music. This could not have fit better in a collection so militant as the latest by the Belgian designer. Although the whole presentation was very colorful, most outings came with a felt soldiers helmet which at times was adorned with an enormous Native American head dress. There were some military influences on the clothing itself but they mostly centered around the idea of cut-outs. Side-panels of belted wool coats were left open to reveal colorful prints. Somewhere in the mind of Walter van Beirendonck must have been a schoolboy, which explains the vertically striped suits and emblems on sweaters.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At John Varvatos, looks are fearless, confident and as usual influenced by Varvatos passion for Rock' n' Roll. So of course Kiss, in the main soundtrack accompanied his muses, when they pranced down the runway. John‘s leather looks were mainly black, often in shimmery shades, combined with white suits. Throughout the edgy spirit, elegancy is not getting lost.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Inspired by the empathetic portraits of Canadian painter Kris Knight, the new Gucci Fall/Winter 2014 collection shows linear, graphic shapes with the precision in design. The Gucci men -during the day- wears sixties pants, nappa leather and biker jacket, and velvet blazers at night. Manifested in Gucci‘s traditional craftmansship, leather is the protagonist of most garments and occures in almost every look. Creative director Frida Giannini chose a colour pallete, that culminates from deep black into dusty pastels.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Andreas Melbostad showcased a fearless, authentic and original tailored menswear collection. Born out of military inspiration, the line does not miss out on it‘s wild rock 'n' roll roots. Mirrored silver leather pants and bomber jackets are covered with badges and cut in a in a masculine silhouette.
Lou Dalton & Astrid Andersen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2014
As designer Lou Dalton has established herself as a starlet of British Menswear, no other than her was destined to open the first day of festivities at London Collections: Men. Alongside punk-inspired streatwear elements and chic tailored suit jackets, her creations were built on the inspiration of her grandfather’s farm and it‘s workers. Lou Dalton‘s signature of contemporary classicism and refined tailoring got crossed by pieces in acid-pink denim.
Astrid Andersen Fall/Winter 2014
Only four years after Astrid Anders graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Art MA course, the successful Danish designer for Fall/Winter 2014 hit the zeitgeist with a modern, luxurious street style collection. Sticking to her use of exclusive fabrics, the line was based on shiny satin's, laces and faux furs. The 'Astrid' branding emblazoned hoodies,T-shirts and underlined the graphical demand that make all of her collections unique. Other key elements were asymmetric strapless and cropped tops. Down Jackets and silver chains gave the final finish and a slight 90ies spark.
Kaviar Gauche 'Fleur De Force'
Since in 2004 Johanna Kuhl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler created their unique style, it's not possible to imagine the fashion universe without Kaviar Gauche's femine designs. With the delicate yet strong collection 'Fleur De Force' the Berlin-based fashion label welcomed the Spring/Summer season 2014. The two charming founders for this occasion chose the St. Agnes church in Berlin, Kreuzberg to present the collection and show it in a rather minimalistic and industrial ambience. A light installation rotating to the rhythm of 'Einstein on the beach' by Phillip Glass graced the show with artificial golden sunlight and underlined it's cool and antagonistic spirit.
The collection is influenced by floral and contrasting graphic elements dominated by warm and light-beige colours, besides silver-grey combined with the classic Kaviar Gauche shades, such as ivory and black. In addition to the mix of silk, organza and leather, the line features the modern laser cut in blossom shapes. Next to the ready-to-wear collection the designer duo showcased dresses of the Bridal Couture 2014 putting the focus on the opulent Pavot dress, made of silk laces. In the selection of suitable accessories the exclusive garments find a final conclusion.
Ermenegildo Zegna's L.A. Global Store
To celebrate the opening of it's new global boutique on Rodeo Drive, the luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna hosted an exclusive soiree at the new designed three floor Concept store. Italian fashion designer and Zegna's Creative Head, Stefano Pilati showcased an impressive preview of the Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection, including mohair suits, wool gabardine jackets and floral jacquard knits. As always focusing on success, excellence and craftsmanship, the now available selection in the store dedicates to Italian high-quality heritage and ranges from clothing to accessories and fragrances, and from formalwear to sportswear, made of exclusive materials that have distinguished Zegna for over a century now.
The Beverly Hills boutique was designed by renowned architect Peter Marino and creates an extravagant ambiance, dominated by brownish, earthy and golden beige shades. The interior designs of the boutique echo the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style and enrich the visual shoppong experience in store, accompanied by a chic VIP room in the top floor devoted to personal shopping.Invited guests, such as legendary actress Sharon Stone and musician Gavin Rossdale, enjoyed a unique dinner and cocktail night at the JF Chen design gallery, and experienced the new creative concept behind the campaign Eminences Grises, shot by the two renowned photographers Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Under the artistic direction of Pilati the campaign images have been set up in the event space and marked another highlight of the opening.
The new global store is located on 337 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.
NEIGHBORHOOD for Converse Sneaker
NEIGHBORHOOD, the exclusive lifestyle denim brand from Tokyo and Converse presented their first joint project, the first String Holiday 2013 collection, through adding a slight Japanese touch to the most two well-known Converse classics. When the Japanese clothing brand was founded in 1994 by Shinsuke Takizawa, NEIGHBORHOOD immediately succeeded with their motorcycle culture inspired designs, which also gets visible in this very unique collection. Combining classic Converse DNA with the Japanese brand's own vision, the two iconic staples are processed with high quality materials: the Jack Purcell Johnny Mid, made of deep petrol blue leather with tonal stitching and the All Star Chuck '70 Ox realized in a blue suede, both with white midsoles and toe-caps.
The First String's Premium sneaker collection is available in selected Converse retailers across the globe since the 1st of November 2013. For more information visit
Azzedine Alaïa and Women
By Ria de Borja
Alaïa, an exhibit chronicling the designer’s career and influence in fashion, recently opened at Palais Galliera, musée de la mode de la ville de Paris. The exhibit goes through the designer’s history, designs, techniques, inspirations - and his penchant for women, including famous actresses. Azzedine Alaïa was born in Tunisia and attended the country’s École des Beaux-arts. “I used to spend my nights oversewing dresses for a local dressmaker in order to pay for my school equipment. I learned the different stitches by doing my sister Hafida’s sewing exercises because she wasn’t very keen on manual skills,” says Alaïa in the exhibition catalogue. Soon after, the designer finished his studies and was encouraged to move to Paris by a family friend.
“The designers who have made a lasting impression on the history of fashion are those who have concentrated on celebrating and liberating the body. Of all contemporary creators, it is Alaïa who has best embodied this spirit since the 1980s, using precise seams and darts to produce a silhouette that has become his hallmark,” says Olivier de Saillard, director of the Galliera museum and the exhibit’s curator. “He drew inspiration from the spirited style and arrogance of personalities like Arletty and Louise de Vilmorin.”
Alaïa met the French actress Arletty in Paris in 1960. “She’s the one who gave me the idea of making skin-tight dresses. She was used to adjusting the volume of her skirt with a pin. ‘It falls too well, she used to say. It has to be skewed somewhere.’” Towards 1971, he was inspired by Greta Garbo: “She came with a friend, Cécile de Rothschild, and wanted me to make a very full- bodied coat. I remember some fitting sessions and measuring sessions. The coat was never big enough for her taste.
At a time when everything was tight- fitting, the 1970s, I had to make an immense, navy-blue coat for her, with turned- up sleeves. In the 1980s and 1990s, I often presented huge coats with generous shoulders, a definite nod to Garbo, to her inimitable and avant-gardist style.” When he met Louise de Vilmorin, he was further schooled in fashion: “Meeting her I realized that Parisian chic was all about the little details. One evening when Louise de Vilmorin was supposed to go to a dinner, she asked me to help her put the finishing touches to her outfit.
She remembered that she had seen a concierge wearing a cardigan from a department store like Prisunic so we bought it. We replaced the buttons with something more elaborate in metal and put a long ordinary chain around her neck that she rolled up and plunged into a pocket. It was a demonstration in just a few seconds of her inimitable sense of style, and she got a lot of envious looks that evening.” Over the course of his career, the designer has created collections that include leather or waxed fabrics perforated with eyelets, skirts laced at the back, metal zippers running from the neckline to the hemline, tight and structured leather suits, seamed stretch jersey dresses, leather tube dress with asymmetrical folds revealing the naked skin, stretch jersey hood dresses and coats with hood collars and reversible boleros with strips of mink. “Alaïa fashioned a new body, like a sculptor working with muslin and leather. Inventing new shapes out of simple interplay between complex stitchings, Alaïa became the creator of a timeless body of work. His influence on today’s fashion is fundamental,” says Saillard.
In 1986, Alaïa presented Naomi Campbell in her first fashion show (she was 16). “Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa, Veronica Webb, Stephanie Seymour, Marie-Sophie Wilson, I am grateful to them all for accompanying me through all the research and the long posing, fitting and tweaking sessions. If I don’t have models before my eyes I have no ideas. I need to see their bodies near me,” says the designer. He acknowledges the profound influence women have had on him: “I have never followed fashion. Women have always dictated my behaviour. I make clothes, women make fashion.”
Onitsuka Tiger's ‘My Town My Tracks'
Sports lifestyle brand Onitsuka Tiger takes on Tokyo's diverse backstreets for Fall/Winter 2013. In ‘My Town My Tracks' three natives explore their urban lifestyles and neighborhoods. Through the power of images and film the juxtaposition of this modest and outgoing, quirky and elegant culture, which is the birthplace of Onitsuka Tiger, is related. British photographer Laurence Ellis snapped Asami, a barista and actress in the hip Shimokitazawa district, artist Que, while wandering around counterculture hub Kichijoji, and Chris - the third local - cycling around Nakameguro, a quiet residential area.
The trio showcases models from the upcoming, running-inspired street collection through 1,000 candid Instagram photos, which can be seen on Onitsuka Tiger’s official Instagram profile, @onitsukatigerhq. Throughout this personal city tour, the ULT-RACER and HARANDIA take center stage. Both shoes are inspired by the brand’s running heritage. The HARANDIA features performance technology and will go down in Onitsuka Tiger’s history as its first shoe to feature GEL technology, for extra cushioning and comfort, all the while. As a special gimmick, it’s the brand’s first shoe to have Onitsuka Tiger written on the heel tab in Japanese.
The other shoe featured - the ULT-RACER - is a modern interpretation of the ULTIMATE 81, which was one of the brand’s most famous running shoes in the 80s. Sleek nylon, a chunky sole and herringbone rubber pattern make this a great allrounder for everyday explorations. Both models come in seven combinations as well as three specifically female fits.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 the traditional French House Saint Laurent transformed the runway into a spectaculous culisse with moving light rods in triangle shapes accompanied by synthy riffs of Liar‘s ‘Mr. your on fire Mr.‘, which created a strong ambience. Very chic feminine, yet masculine looks mainly consisted of tight leather mini skirts, chic strapless night dresses and transparent chiffon blouses combined with casty blazers. Hedi Slimane got inspired by music icons and youth culture of the 80ies which creates a nonreversible and unique spirit.
Wunderkind at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Spring/ Summer 2014 collection was a prelude to celebrate individualism and free thinking as if there is nothing left to loose. Inspired by the wild flair of the 70ies, stunning floral dresses with floating silhouettes, high-waisted hotpants and fringed leather jackets underlined the main theme and created an effortless and liberated spirit, that shouldn‘t be missing at an un- forgettable performance. Chiffon garments in acid colours and vibrant prints, next to sporty leggings made of transluscent fabrics and elements of baseball tricots completed this energetic and charismatic ambience and added a touch of youthness.
22/4_femmes at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Stephanie Hahn, the designer of 22/4_femmes, has her roots in pattern making, which makes her a gem of know how in the middle of superficial big ideas. The way she cuts a shoulder on her new T-shirt is only one example of the way Hahn structures and controls a fabric. For Spring/Summer 2014, the designer looked at Jazz Age tennis player Suzanne Lenglen, resulting in a minimal, sportive collection without neglecting the feminine. Relaxed silhouettes with big striped trousers and shirts were vamped up with brazeers in the same fabric. As Lenglen, also known as „the Divine“, never wore an underskirt while playing, an exercise in transparency gave the collection depth and light.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For the second day of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014, Prada sent out a collection that reflected femininity and female empowerment at it’s best. Eye-catching prints, which reminded of mural paintings and Richard Lindner dominated this artistic line. Most of the prints showed graphical images of women, which underlined what this collection is all about. Knife-pleat skirts, tube socks, shift dresses and coats with round buttons were showcased in the colour palette of mustard, lilac, turquoise and tangerine. Accompanied by hot vibes of Britney Spears new song "Work bitch!“ this show was a must-see at MFW Spring/Summer 2014.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2014 show was inspired by the spirit of nature and flaunted with modern qualities. Rippling water reflections and shadows on plants glazed on exclusive garments, in juxtaposition to floral patterns and imaginative, abstract watercolour illustrations. Shadows of tropical flowers in a colour palette of pale blues, greens, grays and dawn pinks completed the whole appearance.
Casual outfits included a range of double-pleat and widly-cutted pants and leggings that covered the skin like a tattoo. Flowing jackets in glossy and monochrome looks and elementary shapes, next to sleeveless silk dresses conjured a symbolic modernity accessorized with colour-matching clutches and handbags.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi showcased a collection dominated by gaudy, graphic and geometric patchwork prints and floral patterns. Being well known for hand crafted effects and precise cuts, the designer duo draped feminine and sporty dresses, skirts and parkas with vibrant silhouettes.
A pink glaze on the runway harmonized with pastel pink and blue colour palette, as well as strong neon pinks and yellows. Remaining true to the Rave spirit Preen is known for, second phase of the show brought up numerous futuristic looking pieces made of transparent high- tech fabrics, semi- sheer plastic raincoat textures and metallic foil.
Calvin Klein at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Speaking the language of minimalism and innovation, Francisco Costa, who is Creative Director for Clavin Klein since 10 years now, put on the final run at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Simple, oversized and unfinished looking pieces gave an industrial, experimental look.
Knee lenght skirts, on top oversized tops and wide-strap dresses were made of unique fabrics like woven snakeskin, silk and multicoloured yarn. Inspired just by a simple boys‘ T-Shirt and potato bags, Francisco experimented on taking apart, fringing and fraying his exclusive fabrics, that were dominated by white, bright sandy and black colours.
Hervé Léger by Max Azira, Mara Hoffman, Lacoste, Jill Stuart at NYFW
Third day at the New York Fashion Week brought up a number of remarkable styles. Designer Max Azira showcased his collection of pieces for Hervé Léger with geometrical printed patterns, sharp silhouettes, combined with leather pieces and added zippers. The show was accompanied by strong dynamic drum rhythms and thrilling beats.
Hervé Léger Spring/ Summer 2014
Mara Hoffman Spring/ Summer 2014
Continuing in Lacoste’s efforts to keep a certain contemporary look - Oliveria Baptista created remarkable pieces with a slight touch of sportswear. He sticks to the old image of tennis courts in strong colours such as clay browns, rosy beiges and dusty pastels.
Lacoste Spring/ Summer 2014
Last but not least speaking of Jill Stuart -who opened the show with a high waisted black skirt and a rounded shoulder top - is bringing back the seventies.
Jill Stuart Spring/ Summer 2014
New Mulberry Bayswater Shoulder Bag
It is surely a testament to design when an accessory comes to be a celebrity in itself; sacrosanct and scrutinised by an adoring public, Mulberry’s Bayswater bag is just that – a cult style staple that is at once practical and ever en vogue. Though change is in the air this Fall/Winter, as a handsome adaptation of the label’s dearest descendant is sure to cause quite a stir among disciples and decriers alike.
Effortless and unassuming, the new Bayswater Shoulder bag is very much the cooler, cultured cousin to Mulberry’s iconic original – insouciant and bare but for its enviable quantities of uncalculated chic. Exquisitely crafted leathers case its humble frame, streamlined to its classic and quintessential components. In Autumnal hues of taupe, crimson, plum and midnight blue, the superb grain of the polished skins comes to surface, from grainy calf and goat hides, to tactile lizard prints. Alongside this novel addition to the lineage, is the Bayswater Double Zip Tote; a distinguishable relation to its ancestor, but reworked, this time with an optimised layout, made possible by a zipped compartment layout. All the while, dependably present is the charming motif of the classic Bayswater – or, rather, any Mulberry handbag worth its salt – in the form of its plated postman’s lock – a Royal seal, if ever there were one. Only one element is sure to stay consistent to such a tumultuous collection: it won’t be long before the Bayswater Shoulder is seen to be a pin-up in its own right.
Available online and in stores as part of the Fall/Winter 13 Main Collection
Ralph Lauren to Restore École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts
The École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris has acquired worldwide recognition as an institution to nurse such masters of design as Valentino Garavani and Hubert de Givenchy. Artists, too, have flourished under its coaching, with Degas, Marisse and Monet all walking through its magnificent doors. It's pertinent, then, that one of the greatest designers of our time has pledged to honor its two-year restoration by funding several millions of dollars towards the project.
The campus buildings date back to the 17th century, and house a 90-foot mural by French painter, Paul Delaroche.The historic semicircular lecture theatre that forms the heart of the school will be renovated with stadium-like seating and top-of-the-range audio-visual equiptment. It's cobblestone courtyard, meanwhile, will undergo significant work as part of the plans, which, once completed, will host a gala dinner and Fall/Winter catwalk show by Lauren on October 8th, making his first European show.
Prada Marks 100th Anniversary with Galleria Restoration Project
Setting up shop in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 1913, Mario Prada – father of the legendary fashion house – opened the first of many Prada boutiques under the roof of Milan's most spectacular shopping mall. A neo-classical landmark, the ornate architecture of its breathtaking façade is all part of the romance in the Prada story.
In fitting commemoration to its centenary, Prada plan to reinforce its roots with an extensive restoration of an entire quadrant of the Galleria, opening onto its historic central intersection and adjacent to its current residence. The Prada Galleria was waved in by the launch of a new dedicated menswear store.
At 400m², it occupies not even a tenth of the proposed development, saving room for more sales space, event areas, a restaurant, an exhibition hall for contemporary art under the Prada Foundation and brand headquaters. The ambitious renovation will encompass a thorough reworking of the vicinity, from interior layout to its outer structure, sculpting a complex for culture, business and lifestyle in the heart of the city, and under the magnificent roof of a monumental Milanese fixture.
Claes Iversen Spring/Summer 2014
Known not for its tropical summers, Amsterdam nonetheless delivered a ray of sunshine at this season's fashion week in the form of the Claes Iversen show, inspired by the city's showery climate.
The banana-yellow ouverture said it all: a satirical displacement of a classic's typical context. Hooded macs cropped up throughout the collection, severed and layered or thrown suggestively over bare legs. Raincoats weren't the only pieces to face the chop; hemlines teased, courting thigh and floor with their sheer promiscuity, though tailored cuts and long fitted sleeves translate sensuality into sophistication.
Chiffon singlets were cinched into banded waists, rising as maxi-skirts or breezy palazzos flaring to a splaying umbrella line. All the while lengthy fringes were raining down in washed pastels, hailing unexpected embellishments as erratically as the weather.
Royal Hem Fall/Winter 2013
Cyclewear just got stylish with Royal Hem's Fall/Winter 13 collection, a tribute to London's cult cycle ride and mirthfully named 'Tweed Run', for which contestants take to the pedals in a dress code of traditional British biking attire.
Royal Hem unpick the stitches that form the patchwork of British style; a fusion of sartorial British classicism, French mystique and knife-sharp Italian tailoring, its foreign accents are what steer the aesthetic from costume, to a kind of charisma that is more difficult to define.
Casual stands up to a hit of formality, with Shetland wools and Aran knits layering bow-tied shirts and waistcoats. Plus fours are revived with that eccentric taste for color-clashing that could only get past a British palate, as flecked tweeds and dogtooth checks bicker politely amidst a canvas of ¾ length pants and deconstructed blazers, lined with vintage Penny Farthing prints. Slimline silhouettes streamline with single breasted jackets, while Chesterfield coats are made boxy by shawl collars and patch pockets. Styled with a contemporary hand, however, fedoras and rolled ankle cuffs speak with an audacious London twang.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring/Summer 2014
It's not often that a designer can pull off 'sailor' without pieces looking caricatures of their influences. Though that's exactly what Boris Bidjan Saberi has accomplished with his latest Spring/Summer collection. Perhaps that's because his eye has always been close to the source; penned from his seaside workshop, maritime garments find new function in the modern man's wardrobe, pooling in the weather-beaten folds of slouched silhouettes.
Ropey knits in murky off-whites bear the industrial scuffs of hard labour, underwritten by the utilitarian buckled fastenings of cropped life jackets. Waxed cotton sweaters are somehow made unspeakably modern, layering light jerseys and oversized pants etched in grainy graphic prints.
Boat sails are reworked to breathe authenticity into hooded cloaks, their original seams still visible so as not to mask character. Yellow waders and fishermen jackets are tailored to question the possibilities of function, narrated by removable sleeved jackets, adjustable length pants and an integrated backpack vest.
Stripes, too, are redefined, their identity chanellenged as they struggle to keep in line on asymmetric cuts. In a palette of worn whites and greying navy, marine wear, here, evades the obvious by all possible costs.
Laurèl Spring/Summer 2014
Elisabeth Schwaiger creates high quality pieces from leather, silk and jersey. For Laurèl's spring/summer 2014 collection she drew inspiration from Asia's aesthetic language. As a result, the designs are modern, urban and infused with exotic impressions. The color palette for spring/summer 2014 is framed in black and white with a vibrant impressionist print in and strong one-pieces in turqoise or purple. The Asian influence adds a relaxed touch to the smart clothes, which are suitable for all occasions from the office to the beach.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Salon Show Spring/Summer 2014 Green Showroom
Sustainability is growing ever more important in fashion and the green showroom during Berlin Fashion Week provides a platform for sustainable labels. At the salon show 20 brands showcased 54 looks from avant-garde designs to delicate silk dresses and fine blouses as well as all the way to accessories. Among the labels were renowned designers such as Lanius or Elsien Gringhuis and Swiss label Royal Blush by Jana Keller / Johanna Riplinger, who employ plant-based treatments for the leather and organic salmon they use -all made locally. Their collection is simple, reduced and puristic. For a more rock 'n' roll vibe, designer Aleks Kurkowski combines straight forward, avant-garde designs with relaxed urbanity and the essential thought of sustainability. Once again, the show proofed that fashion and awareness can create something beautiful.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg
For the fifth year running, Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and Fashion ID have awarded the 'Designer for Tomorrow' award during MBFWB. As a visible platform for creativity, it gives up- and coming talents the opportunity to present their designs. This year's patron Stella McCartney helped mentor the finalists and gave them advise ahead of their showcase. The five designers were Katy Clark, Jamie Wei Huang and Ioana Ciulacu Miron from the UK as well as Hannah Kuklinski and Annalena Skörl Maul from Germany. With her collection 'Paradox', Ioana Ciulacu Miron took the award. For her it is all about contrasts. Her creations are soft and flowing, appear structured and feminine while simultaneously expressing a masculine strength. A diversity of materials like wool, plastic, chiffon and even plastic foam fuse in quite extraordinary unity. The prints on the pieces kept in subdued color were all hand-drawn by the designer herself. Having won over the jury and the audience, Ioana is 2013's 'Designer for Tomorrow'.
Patrick Mohr Spring/Summer 2014
The injustice of humanity is a tricky subject to broach at the best of times. Through a fashion collection, however, the challenge grows near insurmountable. But where others see impossibility, Patrick Mohr sees an obstacle to be conquered.
The presentation of Mohr's Spring/Summer collection was unorthadox, to say the least. But then again, who could expect anything less? Succinctly entitled Human, the line takes an avant-garde take on couture, fusing with streetwear to evoke the idea that we are all equal.
Beautiful models were made repugnant by beards and monobrows, while society's most marginalised were pushed to the forefront, taking to the stage in Mohr's thought-provoking designs. Disabled, Body-building and transgender mannequins sported baggy printed vests and T-shirts – a tired pair of eyes staring as its sole motif. With unfinished seams, the look was poignantly run-down.
White dresses were magnificently pure; folded crisply and escaping all embellishment, they were a testament to artful restraint. In thick plain bolts, they skirted – even lined the floors, their fantastic immaculacy stripping down an aesthetic to a utilitarian skeleton.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall 2013
Few people do couture like Jean Paul Gaultier. His affinity with provocative excess brands him a soulmate for the season, often shamelessly themed and always a little decadent.
Flamboyance, as custom, knew no bounds – a conclusion that could be made from the very first look, through the chunky tufts of fur and layers of leopard-skin. Hair too, was skinned in spots – statuesque and towering heads brazenly with the callous confidence of a cavewoman.
Color palette made a surreptitiously subdued entrance, but fooled noone into thinking this would be a show made of strictly natural hues. After all, it is Jean Paul Gaultier. While sandy browns kept quiet, inflated shapes made a cacophonous bang – chunky quilting piped volume in lines and tapered pants grew pockets so accommodating they became closer cousins to harems.
Velvets, feathers and furs ran with the raucous sense of feminine pride bestowed by Gaultier, amplified by bejewelling tones of piercing green and electrifying fuchsia. His characteristically crafted impression of the female form, meanwhile, did not go overlooked. Puffa-like piping etched the distinguishing features of the bustier, cinching waists and rounding at the hips, deciding whether to tulip or flare. Lavish it may have been, but limitless it most definitely was.
Sissi Goetze Spring/Summer 2014
The spring/summer 2014 collection had a 1990s hip-hop feel to it. Visors are the hot weather update of Sissi Goetze’s somewhat signature accessories: the cap. Since a man in shorts is super relaxed, Sissi Goetze made loose-cut, shiny black drawstring shorts. The focus of the collection is on black and denim materials. Aside from cropped pants, Sissi Goetze has men in layered, overlapping clothes next summer. Color choices for spring/summer 2014 range from light blue to safari style camel. The designer’s unconventional approach to contemporary menswear is a nod to every man’s inner rascal.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
MALAIKARAISS Spring/Summer 2014
Amidst the hyped New Objectivity, MALAIKARAISS spring/summer 2014 collection found itself between the purism, extravagance and wearability. Pleated collars, asymmetric features and contrasting lining added intrigue to the designs. For next summer, Malaika Raiss played with different length seems, varying textures and see through elements. Her fabrics of choice are silk, soft leather and knit which made for fun pieces such as berry colored leather shorts or an easy, see through maxi dress in light rose.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Fendi for Fountains
Roman by birth, the Fendi fashion house is to pay gratitude to its heritage by funding a major restoration of Rome's ancient fountains, including the Trevi Fountain and the Quattro Fontane complex. Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi has sourced illimitable inspiration from the city, and hope to pay tribute to both its striking beauty and historical identity through the preservation project.
“Rome is eternal, therefore, there is no better place: Rome has changed and has not changed,” said Karl Lagerfeld, who has been head designer and creative director of the brand since 1965, marking the longest collaboration between a designer and fashion house. Lagerfeld, who claims to have visited Rome over 740 times, has also photographed the most iconic fountains of the city, ready to showcase in an exhibition entitled The Glory of Water.
Running from July 4th-14th in Rome's sister city of Paris, the exhibition will be displayed in five domes, symbolic of Rome's iconic cupolas. The Glory of Water is to make history as the largest ever display of daguerreotypes, as fifty prints will exploit the now nearly extinct traditional processing technique. Upheld for its mirror-like realism, daguerreotype printing is now only practiced by 6 master printers around the world, and the history of the technique will make a dedicated feature at the exhibition. The event promises a multi-sensory environment, with photographs accompanied by the music of Vivaldi, contemporary digital compositions and the sounds of the water from the fountains themselves. By the Ponte Alexandre III on the banks of the Seine, its showing will coinside with the opening of Fendi's new boutique, its Maison moving from number 22 to 51 Avenue Montaigne.
The 600m² store was designed with the vision of femininity in mind; bathed in soft bronze lighting, an abundance of rich textures - from velvet and leather to natural stone – form the curves of the space. In tune with Fendi's Roman roots, walls are covered in travertine plates, clad to enhance the height of the vertical structure. The ground floor will host an installation surrounding the iconic Baguette bag, where a wall pierced with 30, 000 bronze needles will display the different styles, representative of the craftsmanship behind their fur pieces. Here too, will be a made-to-order service space, where bags from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag can be customised to a unique specification of colors, leathers and finishes, while the Haute Fourrure room above will allow clients to create bespoke fur items.
Perhaps most exciting about Fendi's contribution to the project, is another kind of restoration, this time of the film Histoire d'Eau by Jacques de Bascher. Shot in 1977 and starring Suzie Dyson, Bascher's eighteen-minute piece gave way to the concept of the fashion film, intended to present Karl Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear and fur collection for Fendi. The story of a young woman who travels to Rome, she bathes in the city's fountains, stowing their water in glass vials. Her parents, meanwhile, believe her to be holidaying at a Spa in Baden-Baden. The last shot depicts the woman transformed into a mannequin, standing in the window of the Fendi boutique – the jars of water drawn from the fountains of Rome lined behind her. And so the restoration gives truth to its name: Rome really is the Eternal City.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014
Thom Browne's spectacular presentations are always a highlight on the menswear calendar and his presentation for spring/summer 2014 was no exception. The collection balanced between the super masculine and the super feminine, the masculine part being the navy with their broad-shouldered and heavy-armed costumes and hats and the feminine in details like laced corset-backs, crinoline hips and lacquered fabrics. There was an air of fetishism in the way the models wore the silhouettes with high heels and red lipstick with a tough attitude. If you want to see them, there were lots of political messages in the collection; maybe gays in the army or the perception of what is feminine or masculine. But above all, these were clothes crafted with immaculate attention to detail and a lot of ideas to distill.
Givenchy Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
It has actually been a few seasons that Riccardo Tisci did the very black and gothic collections that made him famous. Lately he had been much more optimistic; the pre-spring collection was full of flower-prints, for example. This continues for Spring/Summer 2014 in a collection that was inspired by geeks and tribes. Tisci took a trip to L.A. and was obsessed by its skater culture which led him to vintage hi-tech. This goes surprisingly well with his other inspiration, Africa, in a way that some prints were confusing: photo-print of a record-player or a traditional African pattern? Very strong were the printed parkas and the times he used see-through fabrics, like the pants and a flesh-toned jacket (which was actually made of a very new knitting technique). The tribal face painting enforced the influences and the strength of the models/warriors.
Rick Owens Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Out of the darkness, bandmembers arived on the catwalk rather than models at the Rick Owens show. Shortly after came a installation twirling the band's drummers around while performing. The clothing of the collection was in line with this exciting performance with lots of black, leather and strings dancing around the models. Last season, Rick brought his man back to the street and this season he continued this path. The most precise example of that are the sneakers he designed with Adidas, that were finally presented to the public.
Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The great designer of melancholia and poetic sensibility, Ann Demeulemeester, outed a emotional collection full of greatly cut jackets and shorter pants. She started with a couple of white looks delicately embroidered with black patterns. Later on the collection took on colors like dusty pink and dark purple that gave the collection more depth, but never made it heavy. The collection had a victorian air but it was kept modern with light cottons and fluid silks. The models wore subtle black make-up around their eyes to highlight both the rocker and the poet that is the Ann Demeulemeester man.
Marni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer at Marni gave us a touch of the trainspotter; all anoraks and flasher macs – a look which is at once smart and scuffed. Oversized raincoats swamp the pencil-frame lent by slim cigarette pants, with skinny ties elongating yet further. Chelsea boots mark the footprint of '60s London. Come to mention it, the look would not seem altogether out of place were it sported by Jimmy Cooper in Quadrophenia.
Checkerboard shirts – more 2 tone than Mod – tuck half-heartedly into schoolboy shorts, buttoned up neatly to the collar as if in ironic jest. Tailoring is as sharp as it always was on Carnaby Street, still in tonic fabrics but color-blocking makes it current. Print is an alien force, speckled few and far between a line that is squarely minimalist. Marni may have gone back in time to deliver this collection, but pieces sit firmly in the future of Spring/Summer.
Fendi Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Stepping onto scorching sands this Spring/Summer was the heated pace of Fendi. A duned setting helped to lay the tone, though the arid designs spoke for themselves.
Sunset yellow drove full-throttle, terracotta as deep as desert sand belted tightly in the passenger seat. In the shades afforded by the powdered dyes of the East, vibrancy permiated in blocks – though speckled paint stains told of their source.
Fabrics befitted the sweltering heat, in airy yet endurable weights. Jackets, meanwhile, puckered and glossed like roasted leather. Tailoring remained subdued; in sandy camel hues, slim-fit fought the oversized elements, with the aforementioned ultimately winning. Co-ordinated pieces jarred ever so slightly, as scratchy straw checks weren't quite in tune. Piled together, the look is undoubtedly eclectic. Standalone, however, each piece simply blazes in the summer sun.
Vivienne Westwood Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
So the spirit of the libertine made it onto the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood - what else is new? Perhaps a topical political statement will suffice. The heart of the collection’s theme, Truth, was not just worn on its sleeves, but rather fully emblazoned sandwich-board style across the chest. Printed T-shirts carried a stencilled impression of uniformed soldier Bradley Manning, an alleged source to the WikiLeaks scandal. Not worlds apart in style from the emblematic image of Che Guevara, both icon and models who bore it donned berets fit for battle. The medium may have been subtle, but the message was strong.
Westwood, by her very nature, likes to shine a light on the side-lined. All the while being radical, the line was designed to cater to the eclectic tastes of the bohemian traveller; think breathable linens and a penchant for print. Heritage checks fused with harems, but just when you thought designs were headed for tradition, pieces would throw out a host of contradictions. Silk cummerbunds were swapped for boxer-bearing jean, and neckerchiefs dressed up but deconstruction tore down: vive la revolution, vive Westwood.
Mulberry Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Can Mulberry help but conjure a wonderfully whimsical campaign? With Tim Walker in tow, it would be foolish to expect anything otherwise. Oxfordshire's Shotover House provided the aristocratic setting, made all the more magical by the other half of Walker's imagination: set designer Shona Heath.
Framed by a typically period setting, doll's house trimmings are the perfect partner for the porcelain features of model Cara Delevigne – a quality only further accentuated by her stoic air.
Crooked branches creep eerily into frame – a homely haunt for the wildlife of the woodland – tipped by shrinking buds and starkly bare twigs. Camel and oxblood take preppy cuts, reflected by its Oxfordshire setting. Leather and black stir a sombre concoction, whilst all-white puritan shapes radiate with a deceptively angelic snowy gleam. Played out to its sole spectators, the story is cloaked in supple merlot leather, like a faded fairytale.
Only walker could make innocence so haunting; only Mulberry could dress the tone.
Happy Birthday Hugo
Counting twenty years of avant-garde design this summer is the German diffusion line, HUGO. Born in 1993 to the Hugo Boss group, HUGO has come into its own as a pioneer of trends, looked to for trailblazing design in finely focussed cuts.
To mark the occasion, HUGO is hosting a summer-long celebration at the Saatchi Gallery in London, in the form of its exhibition, Red Never Follows. From July 21st to September 1st, twenty inspiring creators and inventors will present their artworks under the exhibition. From interactive multimedia installations to unflinching street art, this diverse showcase of creativity will mark two decades of innovation by HUGO.
Also honoring the anniversary is the launch of an exclusive retrospective collection of 20 signature HUGO designs. Pieces set to feature in the capsule line include the red woman suit, a bicolor man shirt and limited edition ‘90s style headphones, and will be premiered at Galeries Lafayette in Paris from September 2nd, before going live online and in the Champs-Elysées flagship store.
Jil Sander Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
How does Jil Sander manage to fill a blank page without actually penning any ink? Clinical whites were taken to their logical conclusion with the very first look – white coat and all. Save the neon-light glow of luminous piping – a scant sight stolen from a chance flash of lining – whistle clean sterility dictates. The signature Sander classic – the starched white shirt – is a consistent throughout, seeing character alternate schizophrenically between sportswear and futurism.
Lacquered swing coats shine with a bleachy gleam, despite orange and pink flirting luridly against the chaste wishes of white. Longline shorts peep from knitwear, making a play for tailoring, while parachute-style silks take windbreaker sillhouettes, tapered in to an elasticated waist. Tarnished plaids sully a pristine reputation with dirty grays, and scribbled prints downright deface. Silhouette, nonetheless, retains its streamlined shape til the bitter end, with a form that cages and contains graphic's wayward spirit.
Tom Ford Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Inverted florals adorning raw silk jackets makes for a slick wardrobe in anyone's books. When such designs are penned by Tom Ford, however, they enter a league of their own. Hawaiian prints played out on slim-fit tuxedo pants and tassel loafers slipped into cheetah skin: Ford's collection bought into the philosophy of the single statement piece, treading only the perimeters that skate the treacherous ground of layering; busy motifs can vie for the attention of everyone, and win the affection of no-one.
But with a pronounced tongue, luridness can translate to luxury. Ankle grazing slacks wink to modern day suave, while an iridescent sheen gives the fully-fledged nod. Beneath opulent blazers, staples veer anywhere between deep V-neck cuts and sky-high turtlenecks, with the classic shirt signposting the dependable middle ground of snappy dressing. A slick wardrobe then? Tom Ford brings new meaning to the term.
London Collections: Men - Day 2
Driving round two of London Collections: Men was a sherbert-sweet sense of summer. Doused in pastels, Richard James gave us soft and simple tailoring, with stand-out espidrilles the only statement piece against a refreshed line of loyal staples.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone, too, presented pared-down pieces, as anoraks and fishing hats echoed the loutish slur of the nineties britpop scene. Katie Eary's graduated prints bought hues to daze in eye-sore orange and fuchsia pink, deep from which jungle skins and flocked flamingos swarm to hypnotise.
Graphic print reigned supreme at Christopher Kane and Sibling, with co-ordinated two pieces obeying a form that is strictly streamlined. Kane's electrifying palette and symmetrical motifs reflected the digital age, whereas Sibling's mix of sportswear and gridlock knits in early nineties lilacs stirred a soup of all-American references, when cliques collided and shared wardrobes. KTZ usurped Arabian silhouettes with a collage of dizzying print; ying and yang motifs, candy stripes and map prints cloaked bodies in draping lengths, with the menace of slogans reading “Poison” and “Terror” made all the more tangible by studded spike accessories.
True to form, Alexander McQueen delivered classical ceremony with typically macarbre undertones, as worn scalloped lace and frayed jaquard were a nod to lost nobility. J.W. Anderson, however, waved the flag for conceptual design. Bold, basic shapes were contorted and displaced, stomachs bared and shoulders constricted in an almost straight-jacket style – a shining example of London's progressive eye. It was Martine Rose, however, who hosted the show that was London incarnate: strewn about a showspace kitted out to enact an unkempt living room, sunblushed graphic tees and scuffed denim set the tone of the collection. Wigged male models lounged on upholstered sofas, flicking through tabloids in white wide-legged pants – not defined by subscription to gender, Rose's proved for a surreal show, to say the least. Only in London...
A Cannes Diary by Louis Vuitton
Causing quite a stir at this year’s Cannes Film Festival was Sofia Coppola’s newest release, The Bling Ring. As preparations go underway for its premiere around the world, Louis Vuitton, together with director Jordan Schiele, present a short cinematic snapshot of the festival in A Cannes Diary.
Beautifully framed in timeless black and white, the opening shots capture the quiet anticipation of locations lying in wait for a hype of activity, before washing into the full-colour vibrancy of Coppola’s premiere party. Maurice Chevalier’s You Brought a New Kind of Love to Me provides the soundtrack to the piece, whispering timbres of old Hollywood glamour to a tradition whose roots lie in deep in the 1930s, and re-emerge today as the ever-opulent celebration we know it to be.
LVMH presents Les Journées Particulières
If curiosity ever proves too much to bear, Les Journées Particulières may go some way to satisfying that thirst for knowledge – just the tonic for an inquiring mind. Following its successful launch in 2011, this weekend's program of events serve an art and design initiative conducted by luxury brand group and patron, LVMH.
Through Saturday and Sunday, houses under the LVMH umbrella will leave their doors open to the public accross 42 European sites. The Ateliers of Kenzo, Dior and Louis Vuitton – to name but a few – will impart ticketholders with a rare glimpse of their creative environments, providing behind-the-scenes insight to the work of craftsmen and artisans.
From couture to cosmetics, watches to wine, Les Journées Particulières hosts an extensive array of workshops to cater to all trades. With open-houses in six countries, the celebration will surely be far-reaching, enlightening and simply unmissable.
Les Journées Particulières runs from June 15-16th at various venues.
Replay Spring/Summer 2014
More than a splash of beach style made its way onto the Replay's Spring/Summer catwalk for the 2014 season. In fact, the Urban Surf collection was awash with sun and surf pop – a perfect postcard of the Hawaiian shores.
The free-spirit of the surfer shines in the design of the Replay Blue Jeans line, whose bleached tones speak of saltwater-drenched and sun-dried carelessness. Loose fit and unfinished edges render Men's and Women's styles characteristically cool, as rolled-up cuffs reveal ankles and attitude. Laserblast denim lies at the heart of the hippie vibe. Eco-friendly and low impact, skinny, boyfit, biker and carrot cuts are a reaction to responsible youth culture. Nostalgic femininity is plucked straight from Venice Beach, when broderie anglaise confronts cold-dyed leather. Meanwhile, fringed T-shirts and are taken from day to night, when cargo jackets are swapped for stone studs and sequins. Menswear, too, is distinctly understated. Oversized T-shirts are aged by texture, as crinkled fabrics appear blushed by the sun, while biker sleeves reinterpret the nylon bomber.
Vibrant hues make waves when palm-print takes the form of macro print and batik. Neoprene mini dresses and mesh knits steal structure from scuba, applying exposed zips and stitching as a playful final point of reference.
Roberto Cavalli: Psychotic Love
Sometimes hysteria can get the better of us. For fans of Roberto Cavalli, the launch of the label's newest accessory may explain that neurosis. Psychotic Love is a short film for the brand, and a tale of one woman’s delirious obsession: her Hera bag. Sensational viewing is the least to be expected, shot by the lens of Diego Diaz Marin - whose photographic work is both wonderfully erratic and eccentric – Psychotic Love does not disappoint.
Through a spellbinding spectrum of kaleidoscopic colour, the woman’s state of torturous infatuation culminates in the moment she surrenders to her mania. Walking out out on her life, she abandons everything she owns - everything but her beloved Hera bag.
Fall madly in love with the Hera bag when it hits the shelves later this month.
Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 Campaign
The sun may be beaming on your back, but just one glimpse at the steely sobriety of the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 campaign is enough to give you chills. Captured by the painterly eyes of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, an inky color palette and soft elusive lines lend an impressionistic quality to the photos. As the twenties theme subtly sings, angular form appears to almost dance, with a gently-focussed lens illustrating a dreamy sense of movement. Starring Mariacarla Boscono and Florian Van Bael, the campaign is to debut worldwide later this month.
Dior's Secret Garden 2
Step into a world of secrecy and splendour. To sequel the success of their Secret Garden short film last Fall, Dior are bringing their Fall/Winter collection to life through another directed piece. Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have been called upon to direct the Secret Garden 2- Versailles. Starring Daria Strokous as Marie Antoinette, the Château de Versailles provides the backdrop to an enchanting tale, dreamt upon the painting by Edouard Manet, Le déjeuner sur l'Herbe. Launching live online in June, prepare to explore a realm abound with poetry and colour, as flower-women bloom from its mysterious grounds. Fantasy thrives in the most unexpected of places, as luxury gives way to dark imagination - illustrious of the season's peek-a-boo cuts to established sillhouettes.
Fred Perry 60 Years auction
As part of the 60 Years anniversary of Fred Perry, the brand has compiled a list of their most loyal and distinguished fans and invited them to personalize a 1952 reproduction shirt. 60 shirts have been individually customized with special birthday messages and unique designs as part of the charity fund raising exercise.
From 30th May to 21st July, each of the customised shirts will be available as part of a special online auction in aid of the Amy Winehouse Foundation. The foundation has been set up in Amy's memory to prevent the effects of drug and alcohol misuse on young people and aims to support, inform and inspire vulnerable and disadvantaged young people to help them reach their full potential. The first 15 shirts will go for sale on Ebay on May 30th for a period of ten days and includes customisations from Sister by Sibling, Raf Simons, Bradley Wiggins, Damon Albarn, Exactitudes, Jamie Reid, Neville Brody and Inez & Vinoodh.
The shirts can be bid on from now at www.fredperry.com/60-years-gallery
J.W. Anderson for Versus Versace
When it was announced some months back that Jonathan Anderson was invited by Donatella Versace to design a capsule collection for Versace, opinions were both in doubt and in awe. In some ways, the two aesthetics could not be further apart. Jonathan's brand J.W. Anderson is known for it's rigourous and boxy cuts and unisex approach. Versace obviously likes to keep its clothing as close to the body for it's sexually agressive and confident man and woman. But on another level, the brands have a similarity that can not be denied; J.W. Anderson is heavily influenced by the nineties-era and that period was, of course, Gianni Versace's initial heyday.
That tension is clearly visible in the collection presented wednesday in New York. Andersons personal influences were the austere and graphic pieces like cropped tops and skirts with high slits on both legs. J.W. Andersons latest menswear collection was all about ruffles, short hems and knee-high boots. That unisex-feeling returned in this Versus-collection as the clothes didn't change that much for him or her. The Versus-man is as confident in a croped and sliced top as his female counterpart. When the Versace-trademarkt made their appearance in the collection, it added extra depth to the collection with signature gold buttons, lace and safety-pins. The collection, reminiscent of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Versace himself, celebrated the nineties. But most of all, it was the result of an balanced joining of forces, in which both parties had an equal voice.
Stella McCartney joins Designer for Tomorrow
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf is proud to announce that Stella McCartney is the new patron for their annual talent award Designer for Tomorrow. Since its initiation in 2009, the fashion award is yearly given away during the Berlin Fashion Week, giving young talent the chance to be discovered and providing them with a creative platform.
With Marc Jacobs as the patron of the project for the last two years, Peek & Cloppenburg found a worthy successor in Stella McCartney. She will be part of the whole process of finding the next winner of the fashion design competition. The first step of the process will be reviewing every application sent in from all over Europe and for McCartney to select her favourite ten designers. Along with an expert jury board, she will view the presentation of the finalists' collections in Berlin in May 2013. Ultimately then they will decide on a winner, who will present his collection at the Berlin Fashion Week and receive the fashion award's grant.
Jimmy Choo at London Collections: Men
It's a first for Jimmy Choo! In previous years the fashion brand always presented their menswear collection in Milan, but in June 2013 the men's collection will make its debut in London for the first time.
The Spring/Summer collection 2014 will surely be a great addition to the third installment of the London Collections: Men, which will take place from the 16th til the 18th of June.
To fully win over the hearts of the fashionable Londoners, Jimmy Choo will also be opening a flagship store in Dover Street in the beginning of May.
Window Displays at Lanvin Paris
Inspired by the prints of Alber Elbaz’ Lanvin Winter/Fall 2013-14 collection, the window displays at the Lanvin Paris store are currently filled with hundreds of butterflies. Swarms of fluttering creatures are suspended in mid-air surrounding the still mannequins, they seem to defy gravity.
The shapes of the butterflies give a playful notion and their elegant black colour is a contrast to the white skin of the mannequins as well as the Parisian creme stone walls found at 22 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Flying through doorways, out of fireplaces and old-fashioned record-players the butterflies are attracted to Lanvin garments like bees are attracted to honey. The mannequins seem surprised by the sudden appearance of the butterflies, there’s nothing left to do but to hold on to those gorgeous Lanvin handbags and be careful not to take a tumble in those wonderful heels.
The Surf Shack by Tommy Hilfiger
When surf culture emerged in America in the 60s, it was about much more than just the sport. It created a new direction in music and fashion - in fact, a whole new lifestyle still embraced by surfers around the world today. That surf culture inspired Tommy Hilfiger to create Surf Shack, a limited-edition capsule collection to accompany his spring/summer 2013 collection.
Tommy Hilfiger normally takes a fresh and young approach to classic American apparel. Surf Shack manages to create a crossover between preppy and laid back, resulting in surf sophistication. The 12 womenswear and 16 menswear pieces are made of summery fabrics like chambray and feature bold prints and neon colors. The beach apparel, swimwear, footwear, sunglasses, watches and bags are ideal from sunrise to sunset on a hot summer's day.
Tommy Hilfiger has also collaborated with the Art Production Fund again to invite five contemporary artists to design five unique surfboards. They will be available in selected Tommy Hilfiger stores from April 15, once the in-store installations of sandy beaches are complete.
Human Made X Coca-Cola
The Japanese designer NIGO® launched his new capsule collection inspired by vintage Coca-Cola. The capsule collection is released under his newest label’s name – Human Made. The new line of menswear takes its inspiration from iconic work wear from the 20th century. A wide grey sweater with the old-fashioned Coco-Cola logo in a blazing red, a cap with stripes and simple white T-Shirts with prints of the coke bottles remind of the days, when Coca-Cola was brand new and everybody raved about that new fizzy drink.
Fun fact behind the collection: The designer owns a personal collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia including a red retro leather jacket from his high school days. He was also the Japan Coca-Cola yo-yo champion back in the 80s and awaited this collection for a long time.
The capsule collection is a collaboration with one of Japan’s fanciest boutiques, Beams. The collection is solely available at Beams surrounded by fitting decor like a neon light script of the Coca-Cola logo and a red vintage metal box filled with the classic coke glass bottles.
New Converse collections
by Rachel Marie Walsh
How many ways can Converse update their perennially popular Chuck Taylors? Well, this season they’re releasing several new lines with strong, creative themes. Well Worn boasts seven faded, retro-denim styles. The look harkens back to nostalgic American films such as My Girl and Stand By Me, where youngsters in scuffed sneakers experienced friendship, love and loss.
Other lines like Camouflage, Hawaiian and Animal answer questions like: “If a Chuck Taylor were an exotic holiday destination, what would it look like?" Jungle prints, hibiscus patterns and leopard prints showcase the colors of nature and Soho nightclubs.
Collaboration with Jack Purcell brings a touch of femininity, such as a pretty rose print on the plimsolls. Another line co-designed with Finnish brand Marimekko draws attention with crimson strawberry, clouds and spots. John Varvatos toughens things up New York-style, with zips, studs and monochrome colors.
All styles sport traditional chunky soles, breathable uppers and soft lining. You have to hand it to Converse - a brand that never stops reinterpreting a tried-and-true favorite.
Dior at Harrods
Inspired by Christian Dior’s love for the British culture, the luxury fashion house just launched their collaboration with Harrods, one of the most renowned British department stores. The windows in Brompton Road display an exclusive collection of accessories, which bring French elegance and British charm together. The traditional Dior colours of white and grey are combined with red leather and tartan pattern for this special occasion. Apart from garments, handbags – including new designs of the ‘Lady Dior’ bag – and jewellery, the range of items also includes little snowglobes displaying the ‘New Look’ and teddy bears with the Dior logo.
The histories of Dior and Harrods are already interlinked. In 1954, Monsieur Dior not only attended a Dior fashion at Harrods, but also inaugurated the Harrods Fashion Theatre. To celebrate this occasion, every customer who visits the legendary department store until April 14th will be able to the enjoy a unique Dior experience. The fourth floor is transformed into a Dior wonderland, where the customers will be reminded of the all-time greatest designs of Dior with the essence of J’Adore wafting through the air. The Café Dior in style of Dior’s favourite 18th century decor caters for some delicious cupcakes and lobster club sandwich to enjoy during well-deserved shopping breaks.
Don’t miss out on your chance to visit the special Dior experience at Harrods! It is located at 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London.
Gucci Chime For Change
Chime for education. Chime for health. Chime for justice. To empower women all around the world and to strengthen women’s right is the aim of Gucci's new project Chime For Change. The campaign was just launched at the TED 2013 and its spokeswomen are Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini, singer Beyoncé Knowles-Carter and actress Salma Hayek Pinault.
To bring together and unite voices defending girls and women from all over the world is the way how to achieve change. Via social media platforms such as Twitter or Facebook everyone’s voice can be heard. “There is no innocent bystander in the information age,“ says Salma Hayek Pinault at the TEDxWomen Luncheon. Social media offers the opportunity for anybody to become active and push positive social change forward.
While in many countries women still struggle for basic human rights,
Chime For Change is not only raising awareness about said topic, but also cooperates with the social change makers of Catapult. Catapult is a crowdfunding platform to better and further the living conditions of girls and women, representing over 50 organisations in 38 countries. It will link Chime For Change members to charity projects they can participate in and donate to.
The Nigerian women's rights activist Hafsat Abiola left the women at the luncheon with a hopeful and motivating statement: “Let us stand in solidarity with each other in our common struggle for a better world and step by step, not over night, but step by step we will change the way that the world sees women and treats women.“
Get involved and encourage change on the official website of Chime For Change:
Céline Fall/Winter 2013-14
A soft colour palette of nude tones defined the Céline Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. British designer Phoebe Philo chose a toned down, but elegant look for the Céline woman of the next cold season. Skirts that flared perfectly around the knees, creme V-neck dresses or ones with broad off-shoulder collars floated along the runway. Integrating statement jewellery into the garments and pairing them with tight overknee leather boots were a contrast to the clean cuts.
Amongst all those oversized coats one of them stood out in particular – that one coat that reminded of a dalmatian’s fur. A beautiful piece of clothing in white with a lot of furry black spots. It looked a little more eccentric than its counter part with creme spots, which fit more into the line of nude colours.
Elegant stand-up collars were essential to the collection, no matter if they were part of luxurious wool jumpers or checkered jackets. A few looks combined different plaids with each other in bright reds and blues. The collection came to a finish with a range of navy blue garments. Their designs reminded of the creme coloured dresses and so the runway show came to a perfect close.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2013-14
The Kenzo Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection goes back to the roots of the Japanese fashion brand creating an exciting mix between traditional and modern shapes. The designer duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim stay true to the Japanese heritage of the label with shapes that resemble kimonos and traditional Japanese robes. Jumpers with wide sleeves, asymmetric cuts, tight trousers, kimono-like belted wool jackets, a variety of skirts and flowy floor-length silk dresses are the collection’s essential designs.
Various prints are also a key to the Fall/Winter collection. Either inspired by Asian patterns or featuring geometric designs, there is a whole range of different patterns. One of the most dominat ones is the a pattern that featured a print of a great number of eyes, which seemed to be staring at the watching crowds.
The first colours to appear on the runway were glamorous tones of gold, black and a bright red, then a number of light blue garments followed, the red reappeared in cornflower-blue patterns, while the collection ended with a splash of orange.
Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Lacoste creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptiste and design director Christophe Pillet have taken the label's tenacious crocodile far beyond the tennis court over the last two years. While Baptiste gives the sportswear an urban sensibility, Pillet, who heads Lacoste Lab, works to expand its reach.
Lacoste Lab revives the tradition of innovation, which the prolific Frenchman considers an integral part of the brand’s DNA. The products, mostly outdoor sports equipment, are created through collaborations with carefully-selected partners. Unlike other collaborations, however, the Lacoste brand remains
firmly in place. "These are Lacoste products. They're sold, promoted and designed by Lacoste, but produced by experts," says Pillet.
Pillet's team compiled a shortlist of up-and-coming, state-of-the-art sports brands. “We looked for the most innovative brands, the ones that could offer us real, contemporary technicality, but also the modern ones which are open-minded and enjoy collaborating," he says. "The choice wasn't so hard, because when you look at something like a motorcycle helmet, there's only about five or six brands that really stand out."
The Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection was developed with the young, thrill-seeking consumer in mind. New products include goggles created in partnership with Dragon Alliance, a football, rugby ball and volleyball created with Duarig, petanques with Obut, helmets with Design GPA, and skateboards and snowboards with Artprint and Salomon.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14
Images of a forest were the backdrop for the Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show, which showed black silhouettes of bald trees and soft light that reminded of a sunrise on a crisp morning in fall. Tall trees towered around the audience's seats and displayed the romantic beauty of nature.
The garments were a symbol for romanticisim stripped down to the very bare essentials. The varied usage of fur was one of the collection's key elements. It was fur of all colours and of all kinds – shiny, fluffy, astrakhan. Furry stoles accompanied bandeau tops and wide pants, fur collars added a finishing touch to coats and even gloves as well as boots' main material was fur. Oversized coats and blazers accentuated clear cuts with diagonal zippers as details. Skirts of dresses were slashed, giving away a view on delicate underlying mesh fabrics. Leather jackets and dresses added a feel of casual coolness, while the romantic theme of nature returned in the collection's prints of trees and abstract flower patterns.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
With this Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Miuccia Prada paid tribute to designs she personally liked. Unusual to Prada, it was a very personal approach to creating fashion. Flared coats with round buttons and knee-length skirts with asymmetric cuts were key pieces of the collection. Essential was also the accentuation of sleeves and their puffy look with either pleats or furry details.
The theme of gingham check of Prada's menswear was continued in the womenswear collection. Playful coats in white, light pink and soft blue as well as colourful weekend bags and shoppers were made out of checkered fabrics. Yet the feel of this collection was more mysterious than its menswear counterpart. Dresses and coats were slightly unbuttoned, zippers of jackets and skirts slightly unzipped. Necklines from shoulder free to V-neck were revealing a layered styling and the tender skin of the models. Fine brown crocodile leather as well as shiny gold and silver patent leather added a little more glamour to the collection, as if the dresses covered in black sequins and the luxurious fur coats were not enough.
The models with wet hair look walked their choreographed path accross the runway with sophistication and silhouettes of seducing women and straying cats were projected onto the walls. The inspiration to this Prada collection might have been more emotional than usual, but it still displayed perfection in every garment.
Fire Etchings by Karl Lagerfeld
From oil painings to contemporary photography the portait is one particular form of art that artists have been fascinated with ever since. None other than Karl Lagerfeld has created one of the most recent responses to what contemporary portraiture could look like.
In his exhibition “Karl Lagerfeld: Fire Etchings“ at the Galerie Gmurzynska in St. Moritz, the fashion designer and photographer dicovers a whole new medium for portraiture by using backlit glass and etching images into its surface with fire.
The subjects of the glowing blue, yellow and white images are rapper Theophilus London as well as the models Freja Beha Erichsen and Aymeline Valade – Lagerfeld’s current muses. The exhibition is on display at the Galerie Gmurzynska until the 23rd of March and viewable seven days a week from 10-19 hrs. The gallery is located at Via Serlas 22, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland.
Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2013-14
The atmosphere of the Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show reminded of Russia in the beginning of the 20th century. Black caps and furry hats were worn by the models and they looked like they were part of the movie classic Doctor Zhivago.
The collection didn't really settle on one certain look and had many different facettes to it. Another theme that reappeared was that of sailor and navy wear with designs that resembled captain's jackets. The runway show started off with preppy ruffle blouses and bows, cableknit jumpers and turtlenecks, duffle capes and well-fitted coats, wide pants and flared high-waisted trousers, floor-length ruffled skirts and A-line leather ones – all in black and white.
Then came a series of colourful velvet dresses with puffy sleeves and clever details created by gathering of fabric. The velvet garments in red, purple, blue and green were accossorized with tapestry bags and paired with brown, black as well as grey cropped and longtail blazers. But the collection wouldn't be complete if it didn't end with a number of glamorous gowns. From creme tulle to deep red taffets dresses, from black gowns with leather pleats to blue velvet dresses with bejewelled necks, the variety of gowns vowed the audience and got them up their feet to end the show with standing ovations.
The Unfolder 7 by Alexandre Vauthier
This is it. The Unfolder 7. The first bag ever to be designed by Alexandre Vauthier. While the fashion brand marks its fourth year in existence, this is the first accessory by the French designer. It's the cherry on top accompanying the garments of the current collection.
The square and slim structure of the bag looks classic, yet modern. The same effect is achieved by its materials of lambskin and crocodile leather as well as the golden metal chain and details. The versatile bag can be worn as a clutch or across the shoulder, just as one pleases. So it's an ideal companion for a night out, but just as much for a relaxed day in town.
Happy Birthday, Dior!
It's a birthday to celebrate! 66 years ago on a snowy day in Paris the very first collection of Dior Haute Couture was revealed. The 12th of February 1947 became a date that marks a pivotal day in fashion history.
To the astonishment of the fashion show's audience feminine dresses and the typical defined high waist showed of the female body. No longer were those models hiding in their bodies in unflattering clothes of the war-time. Femininity made a comeback and the Parisians audience as well as women and men all around the world were admiring the Dior Haute Couture collection.
On the same day a second new thing was introduced to the world: Dior's first ever perfume. The smell of Miss Dior was everywhere in the rooms of Avenue Montaigne No. 30, where the fashion show was taking place hinting that the new look of a woman was not only about what she wore, but about her overall presence.
Closed Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign by Closed has a young and fresh feel to it. The 16-year old German model Esther Heesch is accompanied by Swedish model Lingus Gustin, whose aethestics fit well together.
The couple was photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby against a clear blue sky and all of the photographs seem to be in soft and light colours. The garments look casual and range from thin jeans and chambray shirts to light white cotton trousers. A matching video clip by Jonas Lindström shows the young models diving into a pool, splashing water and glistening water surfaces as well as the two of them looking up into the sunlight and open sky. It is full of symbols for freedom and the love of being independent. As new as the campaign is, so is the design of the Closed website. Following through with the simple black logo on a white background it got a makeover and is now ready for summer to come. A nice feature is the display of all the different key looks with pictures of tiny models, who seem to move around their frames freely.
Marc Jacobs becomes Creative Director of Coca Cola Light
It’s time to celebrate! Marc Jacobs is the new Creative Director of Coca Cola Light in 2013. After 30 years of the invention of the low-calorie drink the genious fashion designer is taking the leads to bring the Coca Cola brand forward.
In the new amusing advertisement three girls stumble upon Marc Jacobs posing inside a photo booth with his ice cool Coke tin. He is taking the idea of the Coca Cola Light Man to the next level, taking off his shirt and baring it all. While the flirty tune of I just want to make love to you by Etta James is playing the girls can’t help but steal a glance at the photos the booth spits out. They gasp once they recognise Marc Jacobs: The surprise is out and he just casually announces that it’s time to celebrate his new position.
So raise your glasses (or Coke Light tins) and say cheers to a new Coco Cola era led by Marc Jacobs.
Stone Island S/S 2013 Night Glow Jacket
Some garments of the Stone Island Spring/Summer 2013 collection have a special feature: The ability to glow in the dark. Luminescence techniques have always been fascinating and now Stone Island is pushing them forward with their recent inventions.
The key to the glowing fabric is an extraordinary double-layered polyester piqué that captures light and reflects it when worn in complete darkness. A membrane inserted into the fabric prevents water and wind from entering and makes the jacket a perfect garment to wear outside on a dark and stormy night. Twelve items from hooded jackets over cardigans to waistcoats carry the glow in the dark fabric.
Leandro Cano Fall/Winter 2013-14
A shining addition to Berlin Fashion Week was the collection of newcomer and emerging designer Leandro Cano. He was the winner of the 2012 Designer for Tomorrow competition by Peek&Cloppenburg Düsseldorf, which was hosted by Marc Jacobs. The financing and presentation of Cano’s first collection was a worthy price for winning.
White and creme as well as bordeau are the main colours of the collection. Almost every garment has delicate ceramic pieces attached to them. Sometimes on the shoulders, sometimes on skirts or even on tights and leggings. Unusual for something made out of cloth fabric, the ceramic makes the collection seem fragile.
Some pieces are made out of clear plastic resembling rain capes. The designs as well structured, mostly highlighting hips and sometimes shoulders. Another essential piece is the peplum top. Patterns of flowers entwine around the models’ bodies adding a playful touch. Furry details on the back of the white garments remind of little angels’ wings. The models themselves look more like sinister mermaids with wet hair, who just broke through a surface of water, now wading through fog near the water’s edge.
A.P.C. Berlin Store Opening
After expanding world-wide with stores in major cities such as Tokyo, New York City and Hong Kong A.P.C. is returning to Berlin to open yet another store in the German capital. It will be the second store in Berlin and the expenditure can be traced back to the designer's love of the vibrant city. Jean Touitou has even contemplated moving his studio and atelier from Paris to Berlin.
Touitou worked together with architect Laurent Deroo on the refurbishment of the shop in Fasanenstrasse 22. It will carry A.P.C.'s men and women line, jeans and accessories. The opening celebration is taking place on January 31st from 18.00 til 21.00 hrs.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
A domestic setting became the scenery of Prada's menswear Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. A furnished house with modern designs and pristine clean furniture by the designer team AMO was the setting. Cubic chairs and glass tables were decorated with lonely fruit bowls, electronic gadgets, plants and vases. The "ideal house".
Fittingly the collection seemed familiar and homely. Gingham shirts untucked under compfy, but high quality sweaters and ankle length trousers are the key pieces of the collection. Ruffled shirts are worn underneath short checked jackets and long coats with velvet collars. Shiny brown and black leather brogues with thick spiky soles add the final touch.
The boys with the fringe haircut and their big sunglasses as well as bright coloured leather jackets seem like they just time traveled in from the 70s. Casually they walk from one door frame to the next one, entering one room after another. Miuccia Prada returns to classicism and simplicity with her collection. Less is more it is.
Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2013-14
From casual outerwear like the green military parka or black leather jacket to smart coats the Balenciaga F/W 2013-14 proves to be versatile. The well-fitted camel jacket or the oversized grey cocoon coat are essential for this year's Balenciaga's menswear collection.
A varied mix of suits and wide pants makes the collection what it is. Graphic prints to fine stripes are covering the high quality fabrics, which vary from wool tweed to velvet. The versatility can not only be seen in style but also in colour: bright to navy blue, dark greens to khaki, different tones of camel, varied shades of grey and black combine well together. Defined cuts give the garments a clear shape and symmetrical buttons add a finishing touch.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2013-14
It seems like a lovely idea to wake up one day and realize you're a rock god in the sixties. That was exactly the metamorphose that happened to the Dries van Noten man of fall/winter 2013-14. Like a modern Jim Morrison in Paris, he walks confident in his pyjama-shirt or ethnic robe, wearing it with studded jeans that were made to look like leather. Fuzzy and loosely fitted sweaters added a layer of warmth to a collection showing quite some neck and chest to enhance the nonchalant and louche aura. Silhouettes were sometimes slightly (and sometimes not so slightly) oversized. Some jackets' shoulders extended way beyond the ones of the models but with their striding strut and wit in layering, it only added to his coolness. Dries is a master in mixing patterns and materials, some combinations would have failed completely in the wrong hands, but the way he did it can only be described as emotional and liberating.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013
John Varvatos is the go-to brand for Rock and Roll guys with sartorial wit. This fall the Varvatos-man was more of a dandy than ever with slim-cut clothes in dark hues. Subtle plaids were combined with cozy mohair sweaters and slick tailoring. Varvatos re-introduced flared trousers for men to give that seventies aura. This al ended in a finale of lucious velvet suits, ready to be worn for the 21th century dandy.
Coach and The Webster: between ready-to-wear and Baseman’s designs
Many were the brands that presented their upcoming collections at Miami Art Basel, but it was Coach’s collaboration with The Webster and artist Gary Baseman that transformed it in a special universe of fashion pieces and design sketches.
To celebrate the arrival of the Women’s pre-spring collection and an exclusive preview of the Men’s Spring 2017, the three joined forces to create customized objects based on Baseman characters and his signature “Wildbeast” print.
American iconography is reflected all over the collections through juxtaposing unexpected images and familiar, nostalgic themes. Moreover, at the heart of the project a tougher take on masculinity takes over, celebrating those who are brave and bold enough to subvert conventions and status quo.
During the event, Baseman, gave attendees a sneak peek of the collection’s mood, hand-painting three one-of-a-kind motorcycle jackets.
Exclusive design for an exclusive experience.
Blind for Love book: the latest Gucci’s treat
Nick Waplington and his unfiltered camera have been enlisted by Gucci to bring the brand's latest project, Blind For Love by Gucci, to life.
Alessandro Michele’s Cruise 2017 collection, presented last June in London's Westminster Abbey, will be the star of the coffee table book for all the designer’s affectionate disciples. Candid and behind-the-scene pictures, from one of the Michele's most memorable fashion shows, will capture the fresh touch of the young designer, who is expanding the Italian brand’s horizons.
The British photographer Nick Waplington, who in past years signed the “Working Process” book with Alexander McQueen, is ready to surprise again with this fashion reportage dedicated to the English punk-rock culture.
Blind for Love tells the story of Waplington’s visionary taste and Gucci’s know-how, all in one book. It's the story of what’s behind the glittering world of fashion, a story that will turn everyone…Blind for Gucci.
The TOUCH revolution by Replay
Rich and inviting fabrics, smoothness and stretch materials: the focal points of Replay's new disruptive jeans: TOUCH
The brand's revolutionary jeans promise to fulfill the needs of modern women by allowing them to feel comfortable, sexy and elegant in jeans that don't crease and are available in a selection of colors, washes and cuts.
The advertising campaign will feature supermodels Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls and Stella Maxwell personifying women going about their daily routines in order to highlight the practicality of Replay's TOUCH jeans range.
Palazzo Versace opens in Dubai
Italian luxury made a step forward with the grand opening of Palazzo Versace Hotel & Resort in the heart of Dubai Cultural Village, introducing the Milanese brand’s experience to the emirates.
After sixteen years, Versace has decided to give birth to its second resort property celebrating it with a grand opening event on November that was hosted by Donatella Versace herself. Donatella has exclusively designed the furniture and interiors for all 215 rooms, creating the ultimate luxury experience in the brand’s history.
Located on the foreshore of the Dubai Creek, this five-star property evokes the architecture of a 16th century Italian palace with traces of Arabian taste, featuring wonderful suites furnished with Versace Home Collection products, first-class spa and restaurants combining brand’s extravagant taste with the highest quality of service.
Straight from the Parisian runways, models like Alessandra Ambrosio, Helena Christensen and Natasha Poly among with Versace’s couturiers, personally presented their couture collection to the Emirates clientele. For this exclusive occasion, a portion of the orders has been donated from the brand to the Dubai Cares Organization to help improving primary education for children in developing countries.
Versace’s founder Donatella found herself amazed by the final result defining Palazzo Versace as a “truly luxury destination second to none in the world”.
Amsterdam welcomes Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house renowned for its unparalleled craftsmanship and keen eye for detail, opens its much-anticipated first store in Amsterdam tonight. Located on 60, Pieter Cornelisz Hoofstraat, the two-floor store offers a wide selection of Bottega Veneta products: the brand's iconic bags and leather goods, the ready-to-wear collection as well as accessories for both men and women. An embodiment of Bottega Veneta's timeless elegance and refinement, the store's concept was designed by brand creative director, Tomas Maier and features an array of notable features guaranteed to provide visitors with a private and comfortable shopping experience.
Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
There is a certain challenge overflowing when taking a look at Rei Kawakubo’s work. The naked message that actually she continues to profound through her clothes every season is pointing at only one direction: creativity avulse from compromising. Comme des Garçons Spring 2017 is exploring again the sense of human being itself. “Invisible clothes”, as Kawakubo stated in the show note. Clothes inside huge armoires, gargantuan silhouettes that allowed to pick what it looked like a pregnant belly, or just the eyes of the model. Like a cocoon where the hidden self resides. The sculptural garments sometimes fascinated with early renaissance had the power of overwhelming austerity. A black parade with moments of Kawakubo leitmotif: the crimson red, the ruffles, the polka dots.
Emporio Armani store and Caffé Paris redesigned
Spread across four floors, windows facing the boulevard of Rive Gauche; 149 Boulevard St. Germain welcomes the reopening of the Emporio Armani store and Emporio Armani Caffè. With white walls, black stone floors and radiant glass sculptures, the new vision for the airy boutique is inspired by flowing weightlessness, inviting customers to browse freely and uncover the world of Armani; it’s clothing, EA7 sportswear and accessories. “I worked on a new concept, airy and flowing, that surrounds and guides visitors while enhancing the product. At the same time, I find it essential to refine every aspect of the brand’s lifestyle,” says Giorgio Armani. The Emporio Armani Caffè is just as welcoming, with a seating area and terrace open all year around on the ground floor. On the first floor sits the restaurant and lounge area, with walls dressed in metallic coated leather and clear glass boards separating the kitchen and the wine stock, adding to the open space effect.
Balenciaga Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
We have seen it for quite some time now. Big shoulders, oversized garments tightened on the waist and the crazy most wanted item by stylists: the sock-boots. It’s the Demna Gvasalia fever. Bringing in some of the hot themes that punched Vetements to the top, Gvasalia explored that aesthetic for Balenciaga Spring Summer 2017 collection, staying true to his vision. As the boot elevates now till the waist becoming a pant all in one, the trench coats and jackets have a sharper silhouette and 80s shoulders line boned. The lavish bejewelled draped tops in one of the most un-couture material – Spandex, the vivid palette of flowers prints and the latex capes with hoods reinforced that fetish underground 80s vibes. For its second collection as creative director at the iconic French house, the young designer stepped away from that boxy look of last season to create a sleek architecture, conferring an even more powerful effect. It’s a vocabulary that Gvasalia knows well and used it since its work at Maison Martin Margiela. Pushing boundaries, elevating streetculture mixed now with the intelligent subtle reference to Balenciaga heritage.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Layered scarves to form long dresses so light you could fly and the bond to that cool atmosphere that Acne built its history on.
Acne Studios Spring 2017 is experimenting once again away from the brand roots reflecting the aim of the house to grow on the luxury level. We saw oversized beautiful knitwear inspired by African blankets with unfinished look. Pulled threads and raw hems, with earth colours conferring that cool look to more tailored and minimalist pieces.
The Denim is one of the key items. Stone washed and then deep dyed offering a soft touch and beautiful colours as of pale gems. Denim dungarees and coats inspired by kimonos with paisley or flower embroidery ton sur ton combined with scarves hanging from the waist. But also the evergreen Acne look of beautiful and contemporary suits.
Fresh, relaxed and youthful. A summer spent in Amalfi coast, a sunset on a boat wearing just a long dress and a sun-kissed skin. Acne’s creative director Jonny Johansson impressed us with his ability to bring new air keeping Acne’s deep identity.
Scotch & Soda’s “Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam”
A map that’ll help you getting lost and explore the hidden greatness of Amsterdam: an innovative way to discover the places Google doesn’t suggest. Scotch & Soda presents the Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam, an newspaper-zine available in stores and the online app from mid-October. Visual artist Jan Rothuizen and journalist Fiona Hering roam around the city with well-known influencers in the creative fields music, fashion, business and art, the so-called “Misguiders”. For its first edition, the Misguiders five Amsterdam “un-tips” and further includes a redrawn and reimagined Amsterdam by Rothuizen and pictures of the Misguiders by photographer Mounir Raji. For its launch, Papersmith studio artist Mandy Smith created an origami garment made from the zine.
Adam Kakembo, CMO of Scotch & Soda, says: “Nowadays, we don’t go anywhere offline without fully exploring online first: then we know exactly what to expect when we get there. With the “The Misguiding Guide of Amsterdam” we want to spark curiosity and rediscover the forgotten art of personal discovery.”
Gucci Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Resurging against a tide of tepid good taste, it seems collectively we’ve been revelling with childish glee at the sheer unpredictability of Gucci’s new mood – an exercise in indulgence, ostentation and unbridled eccentricity. Of course, SS17 stands a season that was defined by its very volatility; fashion houses would fast-forward the commerce of their catwalk goods, while others would lie in wait in lieu of constant Creative Directors. In the wake of all this uncertainty, one thing was assured; Alessandro Michele would deliver a line-up to fawn over. And that he did, from the first look to the last. Candy colors collided in a charged kaleidoscope of powder pink and pea green, clipped tailored cuts topped by rose turbans, while separates eschewed all the fustiness of jacquard with the glitzy glaze of lurex. Frills spilled down ruffled bibs as aristocratic outlines reigned, from pigeon-breast blouses to ball gowns bolstered by mutton sleeves, arriving via the disco as decadent tradition took a trip for tinsel. All were stitched by the insignia that serves the signature of Gucci’s new sovereign, an eclectic embroidery of exotic animals, love hearts and sweet slogans, artfully patched across tulle smocks, fuzzy fun-fur coats and snakeskin hardware in an exuberant stream of consciousness. This is the doorway to the mind of a man with the imagination of a boy. Little of Michele’s world makes logical sense, but why live in the world when you can live in your head? We’re just thankful he invited us in.
Swarovski for Peter Lindbergh
The exhibition Peter Lindbergh – A different Vision on Fashion Photography has announced Swarovski as their Golden Partner as they tour internationally. Curated in the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, the exhibition highlights the photographer’s influence on the fashion industry and him challenging the preconceived notion of beauty, spread across nine sections in the gallery including Dance, Supermodels and Icons. Four of Lindbergh’s fine art prints put on display are embellished with Swarovski Crystals, as well as a Swarovski Crystal Rocks platform including the photographer’s famous alien costume. “Lindbergh’s democratic vision is expressed in partnership with Swarovski, who have generously supported this project and share the same humanist values as Lindbergh,” says curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot.
NEU NOW Festival 2016
60 emerging talented artists from 18 different countries and a programme filled with design, architecture, performance, film, music and artist talks. The 8th edition of NEU NOW festival will open from 14th to the 18th September, located at the Westergasfabriek. The international art festival celebrates upcoming creatives and spawns career opportunities, providing support for imminent artists throughout the year. On the night of the 17th, in collaboration with Warteiner, the European League of Institutes of the Arts' initiative NEU NOW invites visitors to a late-night programme with drink and music, provided by deadHYPE and Jo Goes Hunting.
BALLY AW16 Campaign
Emerging London based photographer Jack Davison captures youthful eccentricities in the BALLY AW16 campaign, featuring a dynamic cast of eight models, including the Guinevere Van Seenus, Finnlay Davis and Dutch model Ina Maribo Jensen. The images portray the nature of an artists’ studio in the 70s. As Davison seizes the individual and different personalities, he is also able to unite them in their spirit, prominent in current and future BALLY collections. “What fascinates me about Jack’s work is his ability to capture intimacy in his portraits; because it is about real emotions," Design Director Pablo Coppola says of the collaboration with the young photographer, while Davison reveals; “I trust in the moment, go into the situation and let myself be guided by my instincts.”
MARC O'POLO DENIM Campaign Fall/Winter 2016
The latest MARC O’POLO DENIM campaign presents a new and young generation, boosting with confidence, creativity and translates the brands’ DENIM collection in their own way. Bruce Weber’s pupil Sean Thomas knew how to accurately illustrate this generation, while stylist Ursina Gysi created the modern looks. Following on from the last campaign, shown at the heart of the images is the metropolitan climate of Paris – unconventional, natural and multicultural.
Diesel Black Gold Resort 2017
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad has mixed an early nineties mood with Diesel Black Gold’s known utilitarian style, creating Resort 2017. Styled with gladiator boots and black pointy biker shoes to keep a clean cut and metropolitan spirit, the collection adapts new proportions that allow masculine shapes to appeal more feminine. Layering of skirts over long shirts, off-the-shoulder biker jackets and poplin dresses are this seasons’ statement look. For its men’s collection, Melbostad experiments with parachute trousers made from trench fabric, but keeps a utilitarian feel with bomber and denim jackets and sweatshirts, a sportswear essential.
Tim Coppens Spring/Summer 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 is for Belgian designer Tim Coppens influenced by traditional Japanese dress, with references as the incorporated judo-style belts and kimono-inspired prints on bomber jackets. The collection also references Coppens’ 90s upbringing and the skate scene with colour blocked sports gear, yet sticks to Coppens’ signature tailoring and use of technical fabrics. Introduced in this collection is Tim Coppens original footwear, a line of structurally cut, leather sneakers. This will be available from next spring.
Diesel Black Gold FW16 Campaign
Mica Arganaraz and Louie Johnson feature in the Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, shot by Karim Sadli. Creative director Andreas Melbostad embraces Diesel Black Gold’s urban approach in the images and reveals, “Mica and Louie, through the lens of Karim, convey a strong yet understated message of individuality and confidence.” The duo is dressed in iconic outerwear pieces of the new collection, including the women’s biker cape and the men’s utility parka. Furthermore we see a mix of leather and quilted nylon.
Fendi Haute Fourrure Collection Fall/Winter 2016/17
Legends and Fairy Tales are the main inspiration for Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Collection, as Karl Lagerfeld reveals; “I always take inspiration from what is in the air. But this time I especially took inspiration from some illustrations of legends and fairy tales, very romantic and modern at the same time. All the looks have something poetic, but in a very contemporary dimension”. A romantic colour palette of soft pink and whites along with light materials like silk and tulle symbolize a dream. The sunset is portrayed with shades of blue and knitted organza. Black, cashmere and fur portray the dark night sky. 600 hours of expert artisan skills were involved in creating the beautifully applied flower and feather embroideries, which illustrates the Maison’s creativity and expertise.
MBFW: l'VR Isabel Vollrath
Inspired by the Russian “Les Ballets Russes”, on the third day of Berlin Fashion Week we see l’VR Isabel Vollrath’s runway show. Isabel Vollrath is a Berlin Weissensee School of Art graduate, with as main focus showing that fashion is more than just gear. It’s an art form, portrays a culture, visualises a way of thinking. The collection is called “Sacre du Printemps”, which loosely translates as the Ceremony of Spring. Forest sounds start the show, with birds peacefully singing in the background, which is followed by a beat and the first looks layered with tulle. Its colour palette began with pastels and developed into coral and deep navy, while including white and black. It all sits together nicely through the use of oriental prints.
WALTZ Autumn/Winter 2016
San Francisco based women’s wear brand WALTZ’ Autumn/Winter collection for 2016 is available now. Primarily hued in oxblood, rust and midnight blue, the choice in colour palette gives the collection its autumnal feel. The collection includes timeless pieces and wardrobe staples, garments that are versatile and essential. Founded by Danielle Colen, WALTZ is a brand embracing comfort and ease in its designs, with a prominence in quality fabrics and tailoring. WALTZ is influenced by menswear silhouettes and Colen’s affection towards the East Coast, whilst also maintaining a feminine touch and blending California’s mellow vibes.
Atelier Versace Fall 2016
The Fall 2016 Couture shows are happening in Paris right now, where Versace showed its Atelier Fall 2016 collection. “I love the elegance, sophistication and drama of today’s woman. This is a collection that reveals a woman’s power, and her allure”, Donatella Versace reveals of her latest show. The collection portrays elegance and it experiments, with volume and new ways of draping. Evening gowns are paired with tailored trousers and has a certain fluidity to them, as the pleats create a strong silhouette against the body. Jackets graciously fall off the shoulder, the cashmere evening coat is freely embellished with Swarovski crystals and styled on the feet are high heels, detailed with knotted bows of leather falling over the toes.
MBFW: Marina Hoermanseder S/S 2017
Dressing her models in three-dimensional garments, Marina Hoermanseder’s S/S 2017 collection at the Berlin Fashion Week reminds of playing dress-up with dolls. Glossy dresses resemble the perfection found in the bodies of plastic puppets. The finishing dress of the collection is definitely the highlight – it looks like the glossy body of a mannequin, a bare body showing breasts and a belly button. A tiny waist and wide hips lead into a stiff knee-length skirt, scalloped at the back and heavily encrusted with a mix of red and white diamonds. The bejeweled dress and corsets are not the only eccentric extra. Butterfly applications on shiny leather tops and dresses give the impression that butterflies are more drawn to settling on a beautiful dress than on a flower.
Some tops are made entirely out of frilly flower applications. There is a girly and playful feel to the collection. It is an interesting progression from last year’s summer collection. Similar straps and belts are still essential elements of coats and dresses, but this time the skirt made entirely out of straps wrapping around the model's legs is boasting of a powerful pink and neon orange. Fiery red, neon peach and hot pink are combined with baby blues and creme colours. Pleated mini skirts and wide legged 3/4 trousers are key to the collection. Neon collars spice up dress shirts. A shiny bomber jacket in a bright orange offers an option for summery outerwear. The plastic feel of the garments is what makes them stand out.
Amanda Seyfried for Miu Miu AW 2016
Miu Miu has fused high-society with a modern twist for their AW16 campaign, shot by the renowned Alasdair McLellan and and styled by LOVE magazine’s Katie Grand. The collaged images featuring Amanda Seyfried depict a high society replete with tea maids and pearls, with a distinct Miu Miu spin on the coquettish elite. Following in the footsteps of last week's eyewear campaign featuring 14-year old Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's daughter, these striking images are sure to turn heads.
Nosomnia SS17 Preview
A brand that “develops a hybrid between classical menswear and urban style through innovative ideas and unexpected creation.” Keep your eyes on Copenhagen-based menswear brand Nosomnia, who’s just announced a preview for its Spring/Summer 2017 collection called ‘Every Piece Matters’. The preview is a series of serene, but artistic images shot in a field, capturing the dynamic use of colour in the collection, the embroidered detailing in the garments and the brands nostalgic touch of youth.
PFW: Loewe Presentation Spring 2017
Loewe unveils its Spring 17 collection in a suggestive setting where Ibiza summer nights and a bohemian lifestyle reinterpreted are protagonist. Jonathan Anderson again plays around the contrast of natural textiles like linen, cotton, cord together with the main star of the brand, leather. Fluent long tunics in organic natural shades are combined with modern siluettes in pop colours. Relaxed, fresh and youthful. A summer time where we are all dreaming to dive.
PFW: ACNE STUDIOS SPRING 2017
"A fresh take on menswear – one that is very crip and clear,” thus revealing Creative Director Jonny Johansson. Presented in the Lycée Charlemagne, Acne Studios Spring 2017 resembles the atmosphere of Swedish summers, as the collection looks at materials and silhouettes inspired by tents and uses colours and patterns giving a sense of nostalgia. Waterproof jackets are incorporated into the collection, which is where we see the tent-influence; the zip-up jackets have an A-line silhouette on the back which resembles tents, while ponchos are made to be fastened in multiple ways. Knitwear is designed in a variety of densities and styled with shirts underneath and wide-legged pants featuring long zips on the side.
PFW: GIVENCHY SPRING 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 for Givenchy presents an urban, travel collection, blending precise tailoring with hints to signature street style elements. Riccardo Tisci has yet again achieved to create a line-up of attractive attire, with styling immaculately done by Katy England. Models are donned with gelled hair and what looks like ear stretchers. The colour palette shows camouflage colours, striped ensembles and prints including pyramid symbols and the Eye of Providence. Models Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid featured on the runway showing the brands women’s wear.
Palm Angels Spring/Summer 2017
Francesco Ragazzi reveals he looks through the Palm Angels book and choses an image to get inspired, this time one of a skater reminding him of Jimi Hendrix. Ragazzi envisions today’s youth at modern music festivals like Glastonbury and Coachella, meeting for their collective love for music and new icons. Palm Angels exhibits this new generation in its latest collection, which is filled with youthful, energetic pieces and gives off a athletic and college vibe.
Keira Knightley for CHANEL
CHANEL reveals as new face for the COCO CRUSH advertising campaign for Fall 2016 being British actress Keira Knightley, directed by Mario Testino. The actress perfectly expresses the Fine Jewelry collection through her sophistication and style. Knightley has been a good friend of the fashion house and is linked to the brand as being the face of the COCO MADEMOISELLE perfume and the ROUGE COCO collection.
MFW: VERSACE SPRING 2017
The Versace Spring 2017 show is opened with a short version of Bruce Weber’s advertising film for the brands Fall 2016 collection, shot during a four-day period with Donatella Versace in Chicago. This heavily influenced her latest collection, as she said ‘when we came back, we designed the collection in five days.’ Layering is key here; sweaters are tied around the waist, ankle-length parkas are paired with cycling shorts, but also throw over clean-cut suits. Donatella Versace paid homage to the late Prince by using one of his original songs, gifted to her by the singer, as soundtrack during the show as well as making an appearance at the end wearing an all-purple suit. Donatella loves changes, as she says: “I want to push Versace forwards, and capture the spirit of individuality and creativity in the men that I love.”
MFW: EMPORIO ARMANI SPRING 2017
The Emporio Armani Spring 2017 collection is sleek and sharp, with as main focus present-days meaning of the term identity. The collection envisions the idea of belonging, as some models walk down the runway in groups, whilst encouraging everyone to be themselves. The garments, embroidered and printed with digital imprints, are inspired by athletic attire but are made with fine fabrics. In pure Emporio Armani fashion, the collection stays true to its signature colour palette, including navy and denim blue and fir greens, alongside hints of orange, red and electric blue.
MFW: LES HOMMES SPRING 2017
Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2017 takes its inspiration from the Spanish Conquest of South America.
Belgian design duo Bart Vandebosch and Tom Notte have created a military wear collection with oversized shapes and fit, colour scheme fitting the military theme as mostly green, white and black are used. Models’ ears, noses and lips are pierced and footwear consists of mid-calf black stud-embellished sandals. The collection feels urban yet utilitarian, with golden and silver details in zips hinting to Mayan adornments as well as military elements.
MFW: TOD'S SRING 2017
The Tod’s Spring 2017 collection is shown in a presentation, rather than a runway show. The models are situated in what looks like a resembled living room, enlarged photographs as wallpaper hung as if looking at a Tod’s inspired moodboard. Aesthetic of the collection feels sophisticated and casual. With a minimal colour palette we see tailored pieces, fine suits and its leather jackets brings a sharp edge. The looks are finished with brogues, sneakers and loafers. Tod’s has recently collaborated with French Graphic designer Jean Paul Gaude for his exhibition in Milan’s Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanae called “So Far So Goude.”
Givenchy By Riccardo Tisci Spring 2017
The new Givenchy collection delves into three integrative styles. Introducing and exploring new phrase Skinhead Romantic, influenced by the 90s, the brand mixes pleated tulles and heavy boots. For the traditional Givenchy woman, the brand sticks to their signature style, including tied blouses and monochrome colours. In the urban, metropolitan women's lineup we see exploration of new volumes and silhouettes, blending couture and street style. Women's Denim has a small colour palette, limited to black, white and baby blue. Proposed is a new boyfriend's cut, as well as the brands' signature stars.
The menswear collection is based on the same styles. Men's denim suggests striped jersey layers and small gaps in its jeans and jackets, creating new textures. For the classic man, Riccardo Tisci kept his suits and jackets navy and black, with red accents. The urban side of the collection includes oversized parkas and nylon tracksuits looks. Bomber jackets, sweaters and coats are found in the Skinhead Romantic style, concluding the Givenchy Spring 2017 Pre-Collection. The photography for this campaign is executed by Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Bienert.
Dior Homme Campaign Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Dior Homme has launched its Autumn/Winter 16/17 campaign, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign expresses diverse backgrounds in creative fields such as music, photography, film and fashion and has a sense of duality of youth and experienced. Headlining the cast of muses is American rapper and fashion icon A$AP Rocky, highly praised for both his music directory and personal style, personifying the urban and masculinity of the brand in the images.
Photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark very elegantly features in the campaign, in a distinct and dark series of portraits.
On the forefront of a new era in art-house cinema is 20-year old French actor Rod Paradot, pictured dressed in smart coats and formal eveningwear.
Last new face is model Dylan Roques. who is no stranger to the brand as he has opened the runway just last season, who expresses the rebellious energy of Dior Homme.
LC:M Bobby Abley
A Disney-inspired runway. Theme of Bobby Abley’s collection is fictional character Aladdin, making for a fun and exciting show to watch, whilst also reminiscing to your childhood. The collection sticks to Abley’s signature sport style, with the magic carpet as pattern, jumpers and tees printed with enchanted lamps and slogans like ‘put me the right way’. The designer launched his label in 2012 and had his first show two years later scheduled through fashion initiative MAN at London Collections Men. It’s now grown into a well-established and acknowledged brand, which leaves us to say that Bobby Abley is here to stay.
LC:M Phoebe English
Presenting her men’s collection for the first time at LCM goes in true English’ fashion; models sat in a waiting room, sewing patterns on needle-point canvas to keep them busy, until it’s their time to get up and get pictures taken. The collection of all-natural fabrics, shown in the 180 The Strand Presentation Space, is created using a minimal colour palette, mainly including blue, black and white. Phoebe English revealed she is influenced by her boyfriend and male friends, who generally wear stripes, something which is visible in what she describes this romantic-utilitarian collection.
Anthony Vaccarello Fall/Winter 2016 Women's Ready-to-Wear Campaign
Anthony Vaccarello showed his natural seductive vibes in his ready-to-wear collection into black and white advertising featuring the Czech model Eva Herzigova. The designer has been inspired by architectural lines and lingerie hardware and the mood is reflective of the collection's natural femininity. The images, shot in black & white, feature iconic model Eva Herzigova walking in a stud farm, outside Paris. For the Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear campaign, Anthony Vaccarello collaborates once again with the Dutch fashion photographer duo Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The styling is by Alastair McKimm and it is the third season the designer and the two men are collaborating.
Dior Cruise Ready-To-Wear 2017
Blenheim Palace in London is home of the Dior Cruise Ready-to-Wear 2017 collection, creatively led by designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux since Raf Simons' departure late last year. The brand chose to showcase in the UK partly because Dior has recently opened a flagship store on Bond Street.The collection is inspired by post-war attire of the upperclass and the idea of wanting to discover newness. We see silks with rich prints, knits and typically British tweeds walk down the fox-themed runway, with models wearing heavy eye shadow and slicked back hair. The foxes also recur on the garments as well as zebra stripes and giraffe prints. With accessories made from materials such as stones and dark wood, the collection feels very much influenced by nature. This is the third time Dior shows their collection at the Blenheim Palace, the first two times dating back to the 1950s.
Teva-Han Kjobenhavn Sandal
The Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal has arrived, combining the almost contrasting philosophies of the two brands - the practical, everyday wear of Teva matching the runway aesthetics of the latter. The results are striking. Teva has already collaborated with the brand at Copenhagen Fashion Week for two seasons, and this creative partnership is flourishing. Mixing Teva’s outdoor look with a runway brand creates a unisex, distinctly Danish design. Han Kjobenhavn, wanting to maintain their trademark minimalism, has made the footwear monochrome, and are said to be inspired by the local football clubs of their youth - giving the shoes a nostalgic appeal. Available now in HK’s New York, Paris, Copenhagen and online stores, the Teva-Han Kjobenhavn sandal is a distinctive, breathable piece for summer.
John Varvatos Opening of First Moscow Store
John Varvatos celebrated the opening of the John Varvatos Moscow store, making it the brand's 25th retail store globally. The party that took place in Crocus City Mall included a star-studded, black carpet arrival and rock star-worthy VIP party, featuring a special live performance by the legendary Russian rock band, Bi-2. The guests had the chance to experience an authentic rock concert that celebrated Russian and American culture, music and fashion.
Many Russian celebrities and personalities came out to celebrate the store’s opening. Among the A-list guests were the Russian singer-songwriter and businessman Emin Agalarov, and his father, billionaire entrepreneur, Aras Agalorov. Also, actor Pavel Tabakov, singer Ani Lorak, singer/television entertainer Inna Malikova, singer Anna Sedokova and other VIP personalities from Russian entertainment, show business, cinema, theater and fashion. Immediately after the live music performance, the celebration continued with an after party at the exclusive Rose Bar, where guests were treated to a special and thrilling fire performance including juggling, baton twirling, poi spinning, fire breathing and eating, and fireworks display.
The new store is meticulously curated with an emphasis on delivering the full John Varvatos offering, highlighting distinctively sophisticated yet versatile wardrobe selections that are ideal for dressier outings, and fit seamlessly into the lifestyle of stylish men everywhere.
The new store hosts the full spectrum of the brand's offerings, including John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos Star U.S.A. and Converse by John Varvatos.
AGL at König Gallery
Attilio Giusti Leombruni teamed with König Galerie and it seems that the Berlin got an Italian boost to its art and fashion events. The König Galerie and AGL hosted an exclusive Gallery Weekend opening dinner for their famous guests on Thursday night. Two hundred international well-known guests were gathered to the dinner and among them there were the publisher Angelika Taschen, Peter Bläuer, the director of "The Liste", the art collector and Media entrepreneur Christian Boros and the stage and costume designer Aino Labarenz. Jan Ole Joensson, the singer from B.O.X.E.R and the Peaches singers attended the dinner, too. Artists couldn’t be excluded from that fashion-art event and among the guests were the artists Michael Sailstorfer, Christian Jankowski, Jeremy Shaw, Claudia Comte and Kira Lillie.
AGL, which is run by the three sisters, Vera, Sara and Mariana is the only shoe company in Italy managed by women. AGL went online in Europe two years ago and is planning to launch online in the U.S. in 2017.
König Gallery showcases young and rising talents, as well as numerous well-established artists from a younger generation. The gallery focuses on cross-media, concept-oriented and spatial approach work.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, please note: the Kenzo Fall 2016 collection includes the following: V-neck dresses (very formal), appealing outerwear in blue, flower pint on grey suit-fabric, tiger prints in red and gold and ruffled shoulders by the dozen. On Tuesday night in Paris, it might have been as hard for the fashion crowd as it was for you to remember these elements. Kenzo presented a rather various collection, that, despite its broad range of inspirations, still had continuous elements. One of them are the aforementioned ruffled shoulders, recalling the designs of both shirt blouses and garments from past decades. They circle the collection together with puffy shoulders, round or V-neck collars and at many times slim waists. With this collection, Kenzo showed how to unify a collection without convulsing into an assembly of more or less the same item. It's shape, silhouette and signature elements that keep the 54 looks under one roof. Make sure to note that, too.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Fred Perry x Raf Simons SS16
For all those that wondered what Raf Simons might turn to after his Dior departure, Fred Perry has just delivered an exquisite answer. After rekindling their cooperation in 2013, the brand and Belgian designer have since featured more capsule collections, the latest one dressing the season of Spring/Summer 2016. Shot in a blurry aesthetic, the new campaign pictures show a sporty, contemporary collection that focuses on the look of stripes and v-lines. Perry's and Simons' collaborative work is a modernist approach to Striped Pique Shirts, Zip Front Chevron Pique Shirts, Insert T-shirts and Sweaters. Combining classic colors with flashing inserts, the collection is a mix and match of a modern attitude and yet another spin on the past. The wearer is seen a man in motion and stand out styles like wider cut Chevron Insert T-shirt adjust to that effortlessly. Go for the red-inserted pieces on a bright day or take the more classic route with beige-blue combinations. Not only the wearer seems to be on the move, but so is the designer. Raf Simons leaves the world in excitement for his next projects - and we've got the feeling that this one was just the start.
Attilo Giusti Leombruni Fall/Winter 2016/17, Maggie Gyllenhaal by Bryan Adams
For Italian shoe brand Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the recipe to a high-quality campaign is quite short. All it takes are three ingredients: a stunning actress as testimonial, a high-profile photographer and – of course – the perfect pair of shoes. For their new Fall/Winter 2016 visuals, the brand tapped actress Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the latest designs, shot by no other than ZOO's Bryan Adams. Black-and-white snaps see Gyllenhaal dressed in nothing but the footwear and a plain black sweater, adding to the minimalistic touch of this particular campaign. The two models presented, a mid-heeled bootie featuring an eclectic flower print and a pair of shiny, black over-knee boots also hint at the collection's diversity. With this campaign, AGL's Creative Director Vera Giusti is more than glad to reveal “a new image of the brand expressing elegance and refined luxury through the aesthetic sensibility of Bryan Adams and the intense femininity of Maggie Gyllenhaal“. We're glad that AGL's recipe to a good campaign is so short – as it is defnitely one to take note from. The campaign is a creation between AGL, Bryan Adams and ZOO Studio.
Etro Fall/Winter 2016
On Friday, February 26th, models stepped out on Etro’s flower carpet to impress. Floating over the red-and-brown floor decor, they sported the latest Fall/Winter designs, which were a true reference to Etro’s signature looks. It was not only the carpet that alluded to flora, but so did the garments. Mixed with Etro’s typically tribal and Aztec patterns, they composed a true and traditional collection while staying focused on new twists. For instance, there was this season’s it-item in outerwear, the floor-length coat, there were shiny velvet jackets, there were even Scottish-looking checks. Etro is back on track and leading it at the same time, with new ideas quite literally revolutionizing tradition. It is in in moments like these that one is completely satisfied with getting what was expected – because it just made everything even better.
Costume National Fall/Winter 2016
Cool, cooler, Costume National. With the latest Fall/Winter collection, the label presented designs that spread the perfect interaction of casualty and precise tailoring. Effortlessly cool looks dominated the runway at Milan Fashion Week, formed by loose silhouettes and descending pleats and ruffles. The go-to item this season is the coat, and at Costume National, it comes in various shapes and styles. Whether it’s the short-and-slouchy version, the flower-embellished overcoat or the green trench: with Costume National’s Fall/Winter range, you’re covered on the coat side. Below the outerwear, ladies can sport oversize blouses combined with tailored blazers and pleated knee-high boots. Look for something more fancy? Go for the all-red velvet ensemble or the full-on print combination. You don’t need to worry, anyway. With Costume National, you’re cool; you’re dressed for success. Always.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
JOSEPH F/W 16/17
For season Fall/Winter 16/17, JOSEPH went in for the big game. Big hair, big silhouette, accumulated in a look that is as eclectic as a freely assembled art exhibition. Freedom, in both the inspirational and creative way, is a base to the latest designs. Motifs incorporating the nostalgic idea of freedom, such as a hand, an eye and a bird, are knitted into sweaters. This season for JOSEPH means badge, patch and collect: applications are randomly sewn onto the pieces, bringing to life the unique personality that is envisioned by this collection. JOSEPH wants to highlight an anti-conformist look that each wearer can assemble in a puzzle manner. Therefore, leather corsets are fastened over shearling jackets, British jacquards are cut on the reverse to expose floating thread and trousers are laced up, buttons intentionally mismatched. This season, JOSEPH went in for the big game, and whatever you make out of it for yourself: the big entrance is all yours.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016
While in recent days, Calvin Klein’s strategy revolved strongly around their celebrity-studded “mycalvins” campaign, at their NYFW fashion show, it was back to business instead of bras. On the runway, creative director Francisco Costa presented a mixture of sleek, precise looks and loose silhouettes. The classic suit for the Calvin Klein lady is reinvented through the ever-present crossover with menswear influences. Nevertheless, Costa puts emphasis on urban eroticism in form of light and sultry shift dresses with deep v-necks and unraveled hems. Besides that, proportions undergo distortion, with broad shoulder cuts contrasting slim waists. Next to its urban sexiness, this collection has seriousness to it, with dark tones leading the color palette and faux fur collars, lynx and skunk prints adding a grown-up feel. In the eyes of Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein accumulates both luxury and wilderness, and they certainly melt together in inserted stones and geodes, adding an unexpected twist to numerous dresses. Naturally, famous faces lined the front row at this presentation, but with a collection this convincing, the center of attention is nothing but the dress.
Hood by Air RTW Fall 2016
If you’re looking to find Hood by Air’s latest Fall/Winter designs, have a look at the baggage claim at your local airport. At New York Fashion Week, models found their runway turned into a baggage band when their garments were adorned with tags usually tied to suitcases at the drop-off. Another top featured the suitcase plastic wraps also formerly known from the departure area, only this time turned into a bold fashion statement. To be fair, these references were the only ones alluding to flight traffic. If not for the title, Hood by Air’s collection is more a political art statement than Ready-to-wear fashion. Designer Shayne Oliver once again crossed gender borders, made shapes and classic cuts irrelevant and boots, either oversized or shiny and red, the center of footwear. Hood by Air’s latest designs are refreshingly rebellious and creative in a surrounding where rebellion often means changing the direction of a seam. Needless to say, if we found the collection at the baggage claim, there’s no way we would return it to the lost-and-found office.
Tommy Hilfiger RTW Fall 2016
In Fall 2016, Tommy Hilfiger has the sails set. His latest collection, presented in an extravagant set at New York Fashion week, sets off to the sea with maritime inspirations in all their nautical beauty. Now, it would be too easy to just restyle sailor archives to appropriate their look for 2016. Hilfiger on the contrary made his nautical references visible, but still wearable on dry land. Stripes pop up on various garments and materials, from shiny tops to floating dresses, sometimes presented in the traditional sailor manner, sometimes only hinted with a few stripes at the bottom. Classic navy embellishments also made the cut and can be found on coats, blazers and even sheer dresses. For those who want to experience the ride on the sea in a more graphic way, the designer created repetitive patterns for all kinds of garments, showing small drawings of boats, anchors, dancing sailor, wales and more. On the runway, new brand ambassador Gigi Hadid, who opened the show in a shifty beige dress and closed it as the gold-glittering sea travel princess, fronted the show. Full speed ahead!
Capital Ride: Berlinale 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, jump on the wagon; it’s time to set off for Berlinale! From February 11, in a spread of 10 days, the German capital will once again be home to the finest in moving images. From international blockbusters to independent movies, the international film festival offers everything you’d want to watch. In fact, the programme is that various that even native Berliner’s will find their head in a spin. Thus, jump on ZOO’s film ride now and catch up with what is not to miss at this year’s Berlinale:
Chi-Raq © Parrish Lewis
Stop 1: Chi-Raq “Chi-Raq” is a modern take on Aristophanes’ play “Lysistrata” and stars a variety of high-profile celebrities such as Mariah Carey’s ex-husband Nick Cannon, Angela Bassett, Jennifer Hudson and Samuel L. Jackson. The plot: in violence-driven Chicago, a female movement aims to shut down outbursts through a sex-strike. On display i.e. at the Berlinale Palast, Tue. 16.02., 10 PM
Hail, Caesar! © Universal Pictures
Stop 2: Hail, Caesar! Next stop: Rome! Well, in mind. More like Hollywood. With “Hail, Caesar!”, cult-directors Jonathan & Ethan Coen peek behind the coulisses of 1950s Hollywood. George Clooney mimes the kidnapped Caesar-actor while Josh Brolin is the studio-boss that strives to keep everything under control. Need we say more? On display i.e. at the Friedrichstadt-Palast, Thur. 11.02., 8.30 PM
Midnight Special © Ben Rollstein/Warner Bros. Entertainment/Ratpac-Dune LLC.
Stop 3: Midnight Special Next up on the film ride is a movie that accumulates everything: father-and-son road trip, the exploration of sect-culture, religion and politics in one – not to forget the subcultures that come with the American province. “Midnight Special” stars former ZOO-coverstar Michael Shannon, Kirsten Dunst and Joel Edgerton. On display i.e. at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Sat. 13.02., 11 AM.
Maggie's Plan © John Pack / Hall Monitor, Inc.
Stop 4: Maggie’s Plan As part of their Panorama programme, the Berlinale presents a movie about 30-year old Maggie, who after invitro fertilization meets the love of her life. Naturally, the patchwork family life doesn’t work as it’s supposed to do. Starring Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke and Julianne Moore. On display i.e. at Zoo Palast 1, Sun., 21.02., 9.30 PM.
Stop 5: Goat How is extreme masculinity built these days? Andrew Neels’ “Goat” explores the violent side. 19-year old Brad does not only experience violence after a robbery, but also when entering a student fraternity at university. Starring James Franco, Nick Jonas and Ben Schnetzer. On display i.e. at CinemaxX7, Fri. 12.02., 10 AM.
Final Stop: Culinary Cinema & Berlinale Goes Kiez Next to all artistic endeavors, the final stop on this film ride focuses on the Berlinale special projects. One of them is the culinary cinema, showcasing 11 film features about the relation between food, culture and politics. Additionally, since 2010, the Berlinale hosts the “Berlinale Goes Kiez” programme, which moves the flying red carpet to small cinemas around Berlin on seven evenings, each one having a renowned personality as its patron.
434 films, 10 days and numerous red carpets filled with celebrities – it is impossible to swish through the Berlinale in just one ride. Consider this festival a hop-on, hop-off travel. You can’t fathom everything. Even if you just get a slight idea of it – we’re sure it will strike you just as much. Everyone get off, please!
Dior Homme's “Stranger In A Room” SS16
In a world where voyeurism is ever-present in many ways, Dior Homme managed to turn secret spying into something intriguing and artistically beautiful. For their new SS16 campaign “Stranger In A Room”, longtime-collaborator and photographer Willy Vanderperre followed four distinctive famous faces around – as the title suggests - a room. Viewers watch actor Alain-Fabien Delon, The xx member Oliver Sims, artist Rinus van de Velde and model Victor Nylander act as different versions of themselves while participating in seemingly everyday actions. In doing so, they are set to embody both the current spirit of the Dior Homme brand and their own charismatic and individual style. “Each young man is respected for who he is as a person and in what they do; all of them have talents you would want to possess”, photographer Vanderperre commented on the testimonial selection. He developed the narrative for Stranger In A Room with Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. The title was chosen from the eponymous song by Oliver Sims’ The xx bandmate Jamie xx. And as the song, the short movie has something magnetic to it. Whether it is the gripping, charismatic actors or the delicate cinematography – that kind of voyeurism we'd like to indulge in even more.
Lala Berlin: Persian Queen Goes Berlin Vol. 2
If you want to do it right, do it twice. Leyla Piedayesh, designer of Lala Berlin, made her latest F/W 16 collection stand out even more in presenting it twice – in two completely different places. Even though the collection's theme is “Persian Queen Goes Berlin”, the designer chose to host her runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. As a matter of course, Piadayesh did not neglect her hometown. At Berlin Fashion Week, she had already presented the collection with a special mirror installation and an exclusive film. In the now following classic runway show, the “Persian Queen” went for a strut down the catwalk clad in designs that were inspired by ancient cultures – two in particular. The antique Persian town Persepolis performed a major inspiration to Piedayesh. Animal and fairytale statues are reflected in print motifs while oriental elements are a nod to the designer's background. On another note, they also contrast with the collection's modern and street style vibe, formed by 3-D High-Low knitwear, a variety of outerwear and one-shoulder silhouettes. Asymetrical cuts and diagonal cutlines are playfully used to create a glamourous look that could also survive in fast-paced Berlin. To be fair, if Leyla Piedayesh's Persian Queen would enter Berlin, we're certain everyone would slow down for her. Anything else would be too much of a miss.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
ETRO's Circle Of Poets
A poet by no means always has to be a lyricist. In a way, every form of art can depicted as poetry. Italian fashion label ETRO has therefore introduced their new project “The Circle Of Poets”, which sees artists from painters to filmmakers unite for a unique artistic exchange. As ETRO itself defines art as the very heart of the brand, it is with no surprise that the project includes an exhibition space for artists on the ETRO website. Although there is a selected circle of eleven elite “poets”, this art space is not an exclusive area for them. With the call-to-action “Are You A Poet?”, ETRO offers artists from around the world the chance to feature their works in an exciting collaboration, possibly even in local events and exhibitions. “The world within the circle spreads to meet other circles”, ETRO tells us, “now close your eyes and tell us what you can see”. Will do. Are You A Poet?
Calvin Klein #mycalvins SS16
With just one campaign, Calvin Klein has gone quite monumental. The new strategy is not just another advertising campaign, it’s a sweeping blow that endorses fashion, pop culture, music and – surprisingly - street life. To visualize the idea of a global campaign that establishes a new philosophy of participation and creation, the brand tapped photographer Tyrone Lebon, who shot the campaign in collaboration with his father, his brother and Klein cooperator David Sims. Even more striking than this creative team is the class of millennial celebrities that lend their faces to the campaign: Justin Bieber, Kendall Jenner, FKA twigs, Kendrick Lamar, Fetty Wap, Saskia de Brauw, to only name a few. Again, Calvin Klein sweeps in musicians, models, artists, but also – and that’s for the street life element – street cast models. Each shot is completed by the line “I _____ in #mycalvins”, obviously aiming at a social-media driven participation in the campaign. One step ahead, Calvin Klein also added a Spotify profile to supply fans of both brand and campaign with playlists and interactive content. And with a package this complete, we really can’t help it. We’re swept away, too.
Nobi Talai F/W 16/17
The third collection for designer Nobieh Talalei borrowed elements from nomad tribes, an obvious source of inspiration. What could have become stuck in a concept turned into wearable pieces, made from cozy fabrics coincidentally perfect for combating the harsh climate of Berlin’s streets outside: Japanese leather and plush shearling, otherwise used most notably by heritage toy manufacturer Steiff. For FW 16/17 Talalei showcased capes abound, such as a woolen cape vest supposed to be tied around the body, draping asymmetrically around female form. The look invoked futuristic desert planet associations just as much as a nostalgic longing for freedom on the tramp. Layering and folklore vibes find balance in crafted designs in solid neutrals and jewel tones for a polished, modern collection with melancholy notes of orientalism.
Fashion Designs presented by Shih Chien University
Traditionally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin trickles out over the course of its final day, when editors and buyers abandon Berlin and move on to the next shows. As the students of Shih Chien University proved with their FW 16/17 was that is without a question their loss. The Taiwanese University long holds the title of one of the world’s best design schools. In walk two of Yu-Qi Zheng’s models with winged shoulders and pompous headpieces. Far eastern design elements made an appearance on Yi Ma’s designs in the shape of Buddha prints, others incorporated Asian letters or ritualistic accessories, gaping a divide between manga-esque looks and deities. These students by no means over conceptualize their work or cater to cosplayers rather than fashionistas. Each collection is more haute – couture than comic con, begging the question of what is next for this talented bunch.
Louis Vuitton's Time Travel: F/W 2016/17
Presented at the Parc André Citroën, Louis Vuitton revealed the Men's Fall/Winter collection as a ride with a time machine. With his seventh collection for the label, Men's Artistic Director Kim Jones once again dug into the archive of Vuitton and found inspiration from 162 years of brand history. Intertwined with the latest trends from today, he created a “new heritage”, a conversation between past and present. The past starts in the era of Art Déco, of the Dandy and aesthetics shaping the image of Paris. Naturally, the inspiration from the present is drawn from today. This dialogue between now and then finds support in an exclusive art display by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki, titled “Liminal Air Space-Time”. A floating piece of fabric is set to underline the flow of time and to raise the viewer's attention to the dimensions of time and space. Additionally, the designs are also inspired by men of the past, who were originators of style even back then. Among these is Alexis Von Rosenberg, the Baron de Redé, who inspired jewellery pieces that riff on the edges of Dandy style. Kim Jones also extends this collection as a continuation of other Vuitton projects: a ribbon motif sketches out the words “Volez Voguez Voyagez” as a wink to the recent same-titled travel exhibition. Dandys, Art Déco and a flowing piece of art? To us, Louis Vuitton's time machine seems like a pretty exciting ride.
Laurèl FW 16/17
Congratulations are in order: designer Elisabeth Schwaiger celebrates her 20th anniversary with Laurèl and has all of 40 collections under her belt. The occasion translated into a throwback to the label’s core and a bright look ahead. “Say my name” is the tagline for the FW16/17 pieces with empowering garbs that bring out each woman’s personality. Schwaiger celebrates the modern woman as cool, calm and collected, as seen in an all white ensemble of turtleneck and pants, adorned with a leather vest or a number of velvet evening gowns straight from the Laurèl archives. Ultimate highlight? A formation of 4 models dressed in short mohair sweaters with names woven onto the back: Christy, Amber, Stella, Diane – credit where credit is due.
“The Stig” Vernissage In Munich
Friday, January 22nd, combined car and camera: ZOO’s Bryan Adams and Sandor Lubbe attended the opening of the vernissage “The Stig” at the Jaguar Land Rover Store at Odeonsplatz in Munich, Germany. The photos displayed are an extension to the exclusive editorial shot by Bryan Adams and art directed by Sandor Lubbe for our current issue No. 49. In reminiscence of the TV cult series “Top Gear”, the editorial was called “The Stig” after the mysterious series character. It visually combines high fashion with quality cars, presenting the model in a face-covering bodysuit by A.F. Vandervorst as well as the Jaguar XF. For the Munich vernissage, the photo shoot even came “alive”. Model Anna Meyer starred as the evening’s “Stig”, again referring to the pictures by posing in a full-on bodysuit. The free exhibition will be on display until February 21st, open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-4pm.
Les Hommes F/W 2016 Collection
The men at Les Hommes are “born to be wild”. We hope that now, you have that road trip suggesting tune in your ear and imagine yourself on a roaring motorcycle. Seemingly, that’s what Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did. Their latest Les Hommes collection is a road trip on the back of a motorbike – with a gang of friends, a group of fellow bikers, all there to support. With these bikers as major inspiration, Les Hommes undergoes a journey from urban surroundings to the final destination of the African continent. Eventually, this also transfers onto the looks. Menswear classics from the world of motorcycles like performance fabric pants, perfecto and biker jackets and studded shirts mark the start of this on the go collection. They develop into colorful, almost pop looks with multi-material 3D geometries and a hint of couture inspiration. As the bikers reach Africa, the layering of Central Africa costumes comes through in layers of wools and oversize scarves. Accessories on the other hand stay simple: we travel without bags, only wearing studded gloves and bandanas. Ready for the ride? Hop on!
Dior Spring/Summer 16 Campaign
In fashion, time has no meaning. It is as swinging as a pendulum and as shifting as the arms of a clock. Therefore, the current releases of Fall/Winter collections go along with the releases for Spring/Summer campaigns. Get over the bizarre and focus on the facts: Dior has released their new Spring/Summer campaign. Typically charming and light-hearted, with these visuals, Dior stays soft and romantic. Dresses are equally airy or delicately pleated. Contrasting to that are black blazers conveying a serious attitude. In terms of delicacy, one has to have a look at the accessories: grosgrain necklaces are embellished with an “8” pendant that throws it back to the first Dior show in 1947. Less retro-reminiscence is found in the Diorever and Diorama bags, which remind of architectural lines and an innovative level of design. It might be time to reveal both Fall collections and Spring campaigns, but after campaigns like this one, we’re asking ourselves: Spring, why are you taking so long?
LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
“A redefinition of normality in classics” – Jonathan Anderson finds poetic words for the new LOEWE collection. His latest designs, revealed on Friday, January 22nd, are preceded by the corresponding advertising campaign. Model Jackson Wakefield is shot against another rather artistic backdrop: a sculpture by Paris artist M/M combines rugged rock-like formations with iridescent sections, which is set to reflect the character of the Fall/Winter collection. Wakefield poses in a blue overcoat with an eccentric piece of headwear. Redefinition of normality, it seems. To highlight the closeness to real “normality”, the campaign was distributed to 510 kiosks across all Paris as well as a billboard outside of LOEWE’s design studio at 76 rue Bonaparte. So, if you pop out in Paris to maybe catch the latest newspaper, an edition of ZOO or just a quick coffee, keep your eyes peeled for the new LOEWE campaign. Your idea of normality might just be redefined.
Peuterey Studio Collection F/W 16
How to stand out from the crowd is an infinite question. It applies to almost every field of work, of entertainment, of culture. Nevertheless, with their latest collection, Peuterey took on exactly that question. In fact, they question a lot in the fashion business. Along with Federico Curradi's debut designs, the brand has released a movement of “realitytelling”, as opposed to the ongoing frenzy that fashion can sometimes cause. The new Peuterey man is a thinker, a maker, a creator, who is not afraid to get his hands dirty to achieve his goals. Behind this lies a concept of truly deep thoughts – with the goal to highlight two main things: authenticity and purposefulness. Fashion, according to Peuterey, should not be fast, selfish and attention seeking, but should satisfy and be useful to the person wearing it, to let them be theirselves in the best possible way. Therefore, the new collection underlines a promising message of utility to its wearer: parkas and blousons are being rethought with new fabrics, overcoats and duffels have straps to be repurposed into rucksacks and blazers can be used in multiple ways. Patch pockets not only suggest real utility but work as accessories in more ways than one. Classic fabrics are intersected with double-faced, technical and diagonal wools, nylon and gabardine. The color palette comes across as somber, with 50ies inspired accents: charcoal, rust and military greens. If after all, this sounds way too utilitarian to you, don't despair. Purposefulness never meant going out of style. Authenticity never meant being unfashionable. For reference, have a look at Peuterey again.
JIL SANDER Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
London Men’s Fashion Week saw a lot of collections being devoted to the motives of protection, uniformity and military. In Milan, a few designers also presented their take on this theme, JIL SANDER being one of them. By itself, their F/W 16 collection is not a pure military reminiscence, but a metropolitan version of it. There are harnesses crossing the bust but also tailored jackets and capes. The protective effect is certainly shown with voluminous parkas edged in velvet, but bare arms under sleeveless vests also suggest vulnerability. There are ribbed jumpers with patched shoulders, but also city maps on silk shirts, blown into abstract proportion. For a both innovative and strict line like JIL SANDER, it would be too easy to go down the simple line of military inspiration. Even mixing it with urbanity would be insufficient. That’s the twist of JIL SANDER: making simple clothing backed by complex inspiration. Nevertheless: if you wear it, you’ll feel protected, but not shielded. You’re still a metropolitan.
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
Prada Women’s Spring Summer 16 Campaign
Just one week after the release of their latest menswear campaign, defined by vulnerability and relaxed attitudes, Prada has revealed the visuals for the matching womenswear campaign. Steven Meisel shot models Natalia Vodianova, Sasha Pivovarova and Yasmin Wijnaldum indoors in New York. With an equally relaxed attitude as their male counterparts, the three women define undone elegance and a toned-down femininity while still oozing sensuality. As far as that, the attitude is the only thing that comes across as relaxed in this campaign. For the garments, Prada experiments with layering decades of the past to refigure them into modernity. If all, one could define it as conservative eccentricity. The traditional mixed with the contemporary – a blend that has worked well for the Italian fashion house in the past. Nevertheless, they take on new steps with disoriented materials and subversive tailoring. One is uncertain if with Prada, we’re in the past, the present or the future. Another look at the campaign will give you the answer: if anyone can transcend the measure of time, it’s Prada.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
COACH Men’s Fall 2016
That’s a wrap! The weekend has whizzed by and the presentations at London Collections: Men Fashion Week are already over. Once again, designers were ready to present their latest, exciting designs packed in a tight show schedule. Among these was New York brand COACH, who filled their catwalk with the impressive spirit of the American Dream – but also of everyday life. Finding the heroic in that - everyday life - was the collection’s central intention. Thus the brand presented a curation of cult wardrobe pieces with details driven by the thought of utility. Nevertheless, Creative Director Stuart Vevers added a more fashionable twist by blowing up proportions to an almost cartoonish size. Furry coats, parkas and jackets come in an oversized shape to be paired with essential pleated trousers. The cherry on top comes in form of some ironic accessories: small dinosaurs front the bags, waving their claws at the admirer. COACH FW 16 is all about embracing the authenticity and character that comes from imperfection. Just like we experience everyday life. Well, maybe minus dinosaurs.
Tiger Of Sweden Men's FW 16
It’s back to the roots for Tiger of Sweden. The brand has mentally retreated to their Swedish base for the FW 16 collection, presented last weekend at London Collections: Men. Supported by the sounds of Swedish band Wheeping Willows, Tiger of Sweden presented 35 multifaceted looks that were equally inspired by Swedish traditions and cold northern winters. The designers focused on the Dalarna region, which is equally as known for its botanic artwork which subsequently also became an inspiration for the collection. Continuing the process of adapting old traditions to modern looks, Swedish artist Jacob Krajcik exclusively reworked the colors of pressed flowers to create a modern folk design. Still, the collections color palette stays rather opaque. Black and grey dominate, with splashes of color coming in soft and seldom. However, the collection’s heart piece is a pair of tuxedos: slim cut, single – and double-breasted and shimmering in a soft peach and apricot. Whether it’s the unqiue culture, the special craftwork or just the warmth given in a cold winter – Tiger of Sweden has shown us that indeed, home is where the heart is.
Givenchy Pre-Fall 16
Ricardo Tisci is at it again: he’s introducing his second decade at French fashion house Givenchy with the Pre-Fall 16 collection. For the look book, the models were shot in the studio, but also on the sidewalks of Berlin. The collection’s designs enfold a potpourri of fabrics, ranging from lace, leather and denim to florally embroidered designs. Not only the fabrics are various but so is the inspiration: Tisci created designs equally inspired by everything, from building sites to bedrooms. The latter even provide two different interpretations: fetish silhouettes are presented next to streetwear pajamas. This also transfers to the very present use of lace: dress hems, collars and applications perform a subtle but sublime kind of sexy. Since all of this is destined for a FALL season, Tisci throws in some warm pieces we all might need – brown fur and pinstripe coats included. How does one chose here? Simple: not at all. More is more, isn’t it?
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Louis Vuitton Series 4 Campaign
Louis Vuitton has revealed the latest campaign “Series4” with another portfolio of visual art. The Spring/Summer 2016 visuals continue the brand’s system of releasing a variety of visuals, created by different artists, for each collection. This time, the focus lies on the fierceness of women: the heroine. To capture the spirit of the “new muses of a new era”, the brand teamed up with photographers Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber and Japanese video game creator Square Enix. The latter focused on what is most prominent in this particular campaign: the digital age. Enix captured “Lightning”, a character from the popular video game series “Final Fantasy”. Being the most unusual Vuitton model to date, the virtual character is the secret star among the other campaign testimonials, actors Jaden Smith and Doona Bae. “Lightning is the perfect avatar for a global, heroic woman (…). She is also the symbol of new pictorial processes. How can you create an image that goes beyond the classic principles of photography and design? Lightning heralds a new era of expression.”, Nicolas Ghesquière reflected on his choice. New year, new age, new era.
Gigi Hadid Announced as New Tommy Hilfiger Ambassador
American heritage brand Tommy Hilfiger has announced a new partnership with international supermodel Gigi Hadid. The 20-year-old will be the new global brand ambassador, starting in Fall 2016. As a part of this partnership, Hadid will introduce her very first own capsule collection featuring apparel, footwear, accessories and even a special scent. “She is truly the definition of today’s “Tommy Girl” – her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool”, Tommy Hilfiger gushes over the model. Hadid will also launch exclusive events in key markets around the world including the Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The campaign will be shot in New York in 2016.
GUCCI Pre-Fall 2016
A dictionary is a pretty thick book, but there is only one word in it to describe GUCCI’s latest Pre-Fall collection: eclectic. Under the lead of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, the brand presented a colorful, multifaceted collection that leaves almost no color, fabric or print untouched. Indeed, the list seems infinite: animals, flowers, landscapes, stripes, stars and even more– Michele has everything in store. Contrary to other fashion designers, who like to take their influences from just one decade or era, Michele adds everything to his boiling pot of inspiration. Just like in his last collections, vintage is claimed excessively– resulting in references from past centuries to the 1970s. This (again) eclectic mixture can only be adapted by few fashion brands - and GUCCI certainly is one of them. A dictionary might be a thick book, but with GUCCI, there’s one word missing: boredom.
Fred Perry: Annual Traditions
With Christmas approaching faster each day, fashion brand Fred Perry takes a trip down memory lane to focus on what is most present this time of the year: annual traditions. Be it personal rituals, lists, journeys, even those late nights spent reminiscing – traditions are a vast field to explore. In support of their Annual Traditions campaign, this year’s festive season sees Fred Perry celebrate traditions with a short film narrated by English actress Vicky McClure. Focusing on social media, Annual Traditions invites fans of Fred Perry to post their own festive traditions adorned with the hashtag #AnnualTraditions. The campaign will also feature curated imagery all around traditions – which unmistakably are also a huge part of Fred Perry clothing. Nevertheless, celebrating rituals and routines does not only mean looking back: the brand’s slogan captures our traditions in their most true form: always different, always the same.
Versace opens in Berlin
In an exciting collaboration between Donatella Versace and the English architect, Jamie Fobert, Versace are opening a new concept store on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm. Taking a piece of the label’s heritage to their new location, the 350 sqm boutique brilliantly fuses together values of traditional Italian architecture with the dynamic energy we see at Versace today. Providing the immaculate setting for the fashion brand’s prêt-à-porter collections and accessories are 9th century Byzantine church-inspired marble mosaics, dramatic brass features and modernistic perspex walls and shelves…As Donatella puts it, “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight”, whilst paying homage to the label’s past, present and future.
Céline opens Munich Boutique
With only a few stores out there, Céline is a label that prides themselves upon exclusivity. However, Munich shoppers can breathe a sigh of relief as the Parisian label has opened an accessories store in the Oberpollinger, one of Munich’s major department stores. The 54 sqm ground floor boutique boasts a range of bags, sunglasses and jewellery in an elegant interior design of onyx, ceramic and marble.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Christian Dior Couture comes to London
Taking a piece of Paris to the doorstep of Londoners, Dior has opened a brand new pop-up store on Mayfair’s Mount Street. In an old Victorian building, just steps away from Hyde Park, lies Dior’s temporary address. Surrounded by its contemporary interior, customers can find Raf Simons’ FW15 collections for the label, including women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.
The loft-like space is occupied with pieces by renowned interior designers, such as a Vladamir Kagan sofa, a Nuage table by Guy De Rougemont and Miroirs Gouttes by Hubert Le Gall. Christian Dior’s favourite color takes centre stage with a magnificent pink dressing room in the middle of the store.
Fred Perry x Stüssy 35
In commemoration of their 35th Anniversary, Stüssy are collaborating with a number of fellow lifestyle brands whose vision have inspired them along their journey. One of which, being the massively influential British heritage brand, who in the 1950s, pioneered sportswear as streetwear and thus created an entirely new youth culture. This brand is of course, Fred Perry.
This celebratory collection sees the union of two trademark giants, and with that, two iconic logos. Classic, retro sportswear looks from the Fred Perry Sports Authentic line are reimagined in rich Mahogany and French Navy, emblazoned with the Stüssy signature and Fred Perry wreath. Joining these in the collection are two, paneled pique shirts as well as three strap-back caps.
The Fred Perry x Stüssy Collection is now available to purchase online at www.fredperry.com
Casadei Spring/Summer 2016: A New Odyssey
Hitting the stores in late October and only 20 days after the press review, Casadei are breaking the rules with their upcoming New Odyssey capsule collection. Taking inspirations from the shapes and styles of the sixties, the clean lines of 2001 Space Odyssey and the desires of a modern-day Casadei woman, this season at the Italian-footwear label is a fusion of past and present. A monochrome contrast engulfing boots, Mary Janes, ankle boots and sandals, the elegant line carries just the right amount of drama with subtle hints of silvered leather incorporated in its sleek designs. This timeless collection marks the beginning of a whole new chapter for Casadei, who will release the lines Graphic Cuts, Young Jewels and Bright Colors in later months to provide a shoe for every mood of the urban woman, be it contemporary or eclectic.www.casadei.com
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Putting the pizzazz back in fashion, Alber Elbaz staged his latest collection for the label in front of a theatre setting. The show began with the Lanvin woman’s day wear, or some sleek reworks of tailored suits, before suddenly turning to what really matters to Elbaz; cocktail dresses and evening wear.
On came a parade of asymmetric gowns amidst a sequined snowball effect with numerous ruffles and satin bows. Next was a dramatic progression to bold Lanvin prints, lace edging, corsages and raincoats.
Overall this collection oozes the eclectic, 1930s glamour we have seen traces of in Paris Fashion week so far. What makes this one stand out is the elaborate playfulness of Elbaz, who is clearly just out for an absolutely fabulous time.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It is all about the sheen at Dries Van Noten this season. Embroidered platform wedge mules set off a busy display of prints, netting and colors. The eclectic collection took inspiration from the vintage 30s and 40s, and blended in beautifully tailored pieces with incredible wide-leg jeans.
A wings motif spread out over models’ chests, who, donning victory rolls in their hair and carrying clutches, sparked connotations of the glamour of Hollywood in the old days. A continuation of the designer’s vision from last season, the collection was all the more dramatic in being shown in an abandoned warehouse setting.
Blugirl Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Blugirl has grown up this season, according to designer Anna Molinari. In a collection aimed to seduce, there are open shirt-dresses with ruffles, butterfly prints and asymmetric lines across the shoulder toying with femininity and sensuality. The palette is bold and bright with stripes breaking up block colours on beautifully soft fabrics such as crepe, taffeta and plumetis.
Charged with unpredictability are the diverse silhouettes and sharply contrasting lengths, in either baring the full leg and reaching the ankles. Overall, Molinari has achieved what she set out to with this current ready-to-wear in expressing a modern, playful femininity that will surely fly out of the shops.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The inspiration behind Alessandra Facchinetti’s latest collection for Tod’s is the formation of a new girl band. Members include the likes of Langley Fox Hemingway, Elizabeth Jagger and Chelsea Tyler; all either walking the show or sat in front row.
With a rockabilly start the collection is all Gommino loafers, neck scarves and quiffs. Monochrome prints and cropped trousers with leather a key fabric in the entire collection. Slouchy jumpers and unbuttoned shirts accessorized with printed bags exude an air of cool nonchalance – key to any successful band.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Taking a trip down memory lane, Angela Missoni has reintroduced sportswear as the basis of this season’s collection. Using the colourful artworks of Venezuelan Carlos Cruz Diez as inspiration, the show saw a runway packed with vivid prints and colors.
Zig zags and checks accompany stripes on the pieces, accessorized with chokers and sneakers or flat sandals. Looks were simplistic, usually including a maxi length dress or open cardigan or micro shorts or swimwear, keeping silhouettes sleek and long. An overall more relaxed feeling than last season at the label.
Fay Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
It is a seventies paisley dream at Fay this season. With embroidered tunics, lace-up waistcoats and crochet galore, creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have gone out all out boho.
Girlish ruffles and folk-style dresses are a mish mash of prints and layered with variations of military-inspired jackets, meaning there is a lot to look at. In comparison to the simple sophistication of their Fall/Winter 2016 line, this season at FAY has taken a less serious approach and added a touch of “elegant chaos”.
Claire Barrow Spring/Summer 16 Collection at LFW
“Broken Machines”, reflects Claire Barrow’s prophecy of our society’s doomed fate. In a world primarily dependent on technology, the NEWGEN designer’s presentation reflects a world in which this entity, imperative to our being, breaks down and leaves us out in the cold.
Worn by a selection of models Barrow has personally sought after, the gender-blurred collection is a beautiful jumble of silks, lace-up leathers, power suits and her trademark scrawling prints.
CHANEL Unveils Ephemeral Boutique in Rome
In place of its previous Via del Babuino boutique CHANEL has opened an ephemeral boutique, which is just steps away from its new boutique on the Piazza di Spagna, Rome.
The House welcomes “the masculine-feminine”, a concept treasured by Gabrielle Chanel. With a raw, minimalistic design of white floors and ceilings separated with oak, terrazzo and concrete modules, the understated boutique is appealing to both sexes.
Filling up the space will be the Ready-to-Wear line with accessories and the new, unisex, Boyfriend watch collection. There is also a fragrance and beauty section with a picturesque, Roman courtyard hidden behind the boutique.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Fanny packs, metallics and platform shoes. John Galliano is taking us raving. The dingy basements of London’s club scene has undoubtedly influenced the urban fashion show with models stopping to fiddle with the stereo equipment before walking, as if choosing their own soundtrack.
Split hem maxi dresses, eagle prints, tie dye and exposed bikinis made up the basis of the current, ever-eccentric, MM6 collection… Think grunge meets punk meets glitterball. However, the sad thing is that by the fierce expression of the model/ravers, we might not be getting an invite to this cool party.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Reminiscent of the label’s 1994 collection, which was immortalized thanks to the likes of Kate Moss on its runway, Francisco Costa has turned his head back to basics with the inspiration of a simple slip.
Adding a grunge twist, his sleek soft silk maxi dresses have split hems and loose straps, whilst lightweight, beautifully tailored long jackets with split cuffs billow over frayed-hem trousers. Mainly in a minimalistic neutral palette, Costa adds a touch of unpredictability to the label’s collection with the incorporation of floral print.
Givenchy Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Cranking up several more notches on the face décor scale, Riccardo Tisci returns this season with another classically “Givenchy” collection. Making his debut into New York Fashion Week, Tisci teamed up with Marina Abramovic to make a thought-provoking reference to 9/11 in the opening of his show.
The collection itself is a natural continuation from last season’s. Adopting whites and neutrals into his black palette, Tisci experiments with fabrics with an alligator skin couture dress. Perfectly tailored trousers, pointed lace-up shoes and a magnitude of lace leaves Tisci with a collection that is the perfect mix of elaborateness and class.
YSL Presents Latest Campaign “Rue de l'Université”
It has now been more than a decade since we said goodbye to the astounding couture of YSL, following the retirement of founder Yves Saint Laurent in 2002. Most would surely find the task of filling his shoes too daunting to take on… Hedi Slimane however has presented himself as a match. Since being appointed as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, Slimane has spent the past three years busy renovating the “Hôtel de Sénecterre”, a.k.a. the last couture house of Saint Laurent.
The majestic building located at 24, Rue de l’Université, was originally built in 1685 by architect Thomas Gobert and would have probably needed a great deal more than a lick of paint to whip back into working shape… Yet Slimane has done it. The iconic label’s latest campaign is shot in the grand house, signifying it’s long anticipated opening as the lavish new couture house of Saint Laurent.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
What Do You Mean it’s Exclusive Calvin Klein?
To the avid horror of Beliebers everywhere, the latest Justin Bieber video sees him get pretty well aquainted with model Xenia Deli. The pair writhe around wearing exclusively Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein underwear, to the backing track of his new song, “What do you mean?”. By doing so, he keeps the collab flame alight with the luxury fashion label, after featuring in their racy Spring/Summer 2015 advertising campaign with supermodel Lara Stone.
Converse Celebrate a 35 Year Old Stüssy!
The all American brands Stüssy and Converse have teamed up in celebrating the former’s 35th Anniversary. Commemorating Stüssy’s iconic “Tom Tom” print of zig zags and dots, the collaboration sees an inspired version of the pattern printed on the high tops and low Ox shapes of Converse’s 70s re-crafted Chuck shoe. The graphic featuring in achromatic shades and blue hues is embroidered on these exclusive sneakers in a unique fabric.
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Stüssy 35 Collection will be on sale from August 28, 2015, at Stüssy Chapter stores worldwide with a general release on September 4, 2015.
Armani Exchange: New Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Giorgio Armani’s latest offering presents an urban city landscape as the backdrop, with models venturing around New York in a variety of relaxed shots.
The menswear looks adopt an undeniable Autumnal feeling with the likes of models Sang Woo and George Eliot in denim suits, layered sweaters and the odd splash of paisley print.
Emma Stern Nielson and Charlotte Carey are the faces of the womenswear campaign. The combination of tailored shirts, wide leg trousers and oversized jumpers give the collection a boyish edge.
See the online boutique of Armani Exchange to view more of this minimal Fall/Winter 2015/16 campaign.
Prada Journal. A Place For New Stories.
“Illuminations, shadows and mirages. Things are not always what they seem.” This year’s theme for the third edition of the Prada Feltrinelli Prize, Prada’s international literary contest dedicated to emerging writers was opened in Milan this past week. The Prada Journal collections of optical frames are the embodiment of Prada’s adventurous nature and its quest to explore the world through different lenses and perspectives – a just inspiration for the world of literary wonder. Launched in 2013, the Prada Feltrinelli Prize aims to establish and nurture an independent literary research platform open to writers from all corners of the world. The winners of the award will be awarded a cash prize and their stories published as an eBook in the Prada Journal digital anthology and in the Feltrinelli Zoom catalogue. The contest closes on August 31st. Send in your short story at… www.prada.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
After 20 years heading the Fendi house as its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld proves is unwavering presence as a force to be reckoned with within the fashion world. He is the only couturier with a second show at Paris Fashion Week, and as imagined, did not hold back. The show proved as controversial as expected. Its title Silver Moon, the house’s first Haute Fourrure (High Fur) collection drew astonishment both from the public and the audience, a feat the very experienced couturier has managed time and time again. The collection was impressive in its showcased technicality, with Lagerfeld expertly mixing furs, feathers and spectacular embroideries that intended to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship in fur since 1925.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
G-Star RAW x Ellen von Unwerth: The Sequel
The iconic denim brand G-Star RAW teamed up with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for their second unique collaboration, this time in monochromatic splendor. The raw visuals of von Unwerth’s imagery highlight the denim texture’s distinct attitude. Playing with military poses, the campaign draws forth the denim’s youthful and rebellious connotations. Formative of G-Star RAW’s evolution has been the Elwood – the first ever pants constructed using 3D methods, which drew on biker pants for inspiration. The campaign showcases the wide range of G-Star RAW jeans from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The FW 2015 collection is currently available online and in stores from August onwards.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
Les Hommes Menswear Fall/Winter 2015 at Milan Fashion Week
Black leather and striking geometric prints. What else could a man want?
Les Hommes certainly caters to a wide spectrum of the population with the FW 2015/2016 collection. In every look, there are pieces that can transition into most styles and occasions. It is exactly this Les Hommes’ collection is spectacularly achieving — an innate versatility that leaves you wondering just how fast you will see some of these looks replicated on the high street. The chevron patterns reign supreme, and it is a wonderful take on the simplistic geometry one would expect to see in a contemporary menswear collection. From the patterned parka to the grey and white chevron sweaters — Les Hommes’ collection twists the print trend and reshapes it into something even cooler.
SLOE presents their new collection ‘Avidness’
Founded by Antonia Siegmund and Matthias Last in the summer of 2012, the German label combines their belief in casual sensuality, urban grace and high-end materials in a sustainable form. With clean cuts and fine craftsmanship, SLOE launches their third collection ‘Avidness’.
SLOE’s collection typifies the fashion-labels’ understated elegance and stoic perseverance of the simplistic and durable aspects of contemporary style. As the capstone of ‘Avidness’, the fringed leather shoulder bag is created through careful selection of materials, designed to stand the test of time and style. Classic colors, tailored coats and sweaters underpin their timeless quality.
SLOE pieces can be purchased online and in selected stores.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.
To see the show in its entirety, go to
Prada Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign
Fashion house Prada kick off their Pre-Fall 2015 campaign with the photographic genius of Steven Meisel. Boldly showcasing the pristine and dramatic elegance that has become a trademark for the brand, shadows play off the subdued patterned fabrics and faces. Alluding to the stoicism of marble statues, the images play with the ambiguity of gender. The fashion house has long been an advocate of exploring the complexities of gender, spurring on the frequently emulated masculine shoe trend with their platform lace-ups.
Characteristics, similar and dissimilar, are explored in the collection, whose campaign highlights the often-synchronous style of male and female. Paired together in couples, models Maartje Verhoef, Niels Trispel, Willow Hand, Artur Chruszcz, Aya Jones, Tim Schuhmacher and others present the stark stoicism of the Prada Pre-Fall campaign.
Check out the Pre-Fall 2015 campaign at:
John Varvatos - Detroit Homecoming
Detroit always comes back.
Setting his sights on his Motor-City roots, the contemporary American menswear designer John Varvatos makes a return with the opening of a Detroit-based store with his Bedrock Real Estate firm, in partnership with Dan Gilbert.
Combining the vintage aesthetic with impeccable tailoring techniques, Varvatos designs from the perspective of retrospection: “my philosophy is about reaching back to move forward”, says John. It is perhaps fitting then, that the design house is making its mark on “Motor City”, triumphantly returning to the musical melting pot where the sounds of Motown, rock & roll, blues, jazz and punk reverberated throughout its industrial streets.
Finding inspiration in great music, both classic and eclectic in taste, his musical influences remains continually and visibly present in his collections. His ad campaigns have featured a plethora of rock & roll legends such as Iggy Pop, Alice Cooper, Velvet Revolver, Chris Cornell and Dave Matthews among others.
The opening of the Detroit store was celebrated with the specialist aid of Alice Cooper, hosted by Chrysler.
The John Vervatos Detroit store is located on the ground floor of the former 1891 dated Schwankovsky Temple of Music.
Objets Nomades by Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton presented the latest project at Salone del Mobile in Milan this year. It completely revolves around travel, something we can always expect with this particular fashion house. Keeping in touch with Vuitton’s core, travel and innovation, they have asked several artists and designers to create objects that embrace the brand’s philosophy.
The collection exists out of perfectly crafted items that are not only useful, but extremely beautiful too. Christian Liaigre created a portable travel desk that can be folded into a suitcase. By combining leather, wood and aluminium, the desk becomes a strong and well-designed item. Atelier Oï on the other hand, chose to design a luxurious hammock, made out of leather strips.
Miu Miu Opens New Store in Tokyo
For the newest Miu Miu store, the team behind the brand has collaborated with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. They have created an architectural masterpiece that shows the core of Miu Miu as a brand. The store is artistic, quirky and everything is just a bit off. Exactly how Miu Miu is too. The store is located in the Aoyama District of Tokyo, a city Miu Miu has been focusing on for a while. Unlike many other luxury brands, Miu Miu gas chosen for an area that isn’t known for being very elegant. The architecture suits the Japanese city landscape and shows a new take on luxury; something Miuccia Prada has been doing from the start.
#ATribute to Armani
The past forty years, Giorgio Armani has built one of the greatest fashion houses we know today. With many different brand extensions and a distinctive style, they have proven the importance of Italian fashion.
To celebrate the anniversary of Armani’s empire, the brand has created a website that brings a tribute to the brand. Using #ATribute, the website will unveil forty different themes, for every year the Armani house has existed.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry
The one thing they have always had in common is what makes them such a perfect match. Both have been important brands when it comes to music and referencing subcultures, which has led them to collaborate for the eleventh time. This year, Raf Simons chose for graphical prints and African-inspired shapes. He turns the perfect basic into a striking piece that shows boldness and exclusivity.
click to play video
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Karl Lagerfeld admitted to his love for France during his latest Chanel show. Since he has been opening grocery stores and rebuilding stages for the past few years, it was time for Brasserie Gabrielle to get introduced to the rest of the world.
He is known to be the designer that keeps on evolving the oh so classical brand of Chanel, and he managed to do that once again. It is not only in the way he presents the collections, but it is hidden in details and materials too.
Lagerfeld is celebrating Chanel heritage; in the way he refers to French culture, and in every garment he creates.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In line with the latest Prada show, Miuccia Prada presented an intriguing character during the Miu Miu show for Fall/Winter 2015. This time, she seemed as if she was a housewife from the fifties, with an interesting, secret job on the side. Ruffles, over-the-knee skirts, eye-catching jewelry and strangely shaped bags all added to her character; making her more fascination then she already is.
Naturally, Miuccia is uses bright colors and unique textures, which all fit her Miu Miu girl perfectly. She is mismatching and overdressing, but staying utterly fashionable. We are sure of one thing: there is never a dull moment with Miuccia Prada.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Yamamoto’s Fall/winter 2015 show was as sober, sophisticated and uniform like we can always expect. Long dresses in draped velvet and wool gave the feeling of closed intimacy and anonymity.
Where other designers go back a few decades to find inspiration, it seems as if Yamamoto went back a few centuries. His looks felt more like they were beautiful costumes, only made to wear by people who could truly appreciate this art. The same goes for the less wearable spider-like constructions that he showed. Even though they are not made for wearing, they show Yamamoto’s genius as an artist rather then a fashion designer.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
If we try to predict how the streets will look for next fall, we can simply start by showing you the latest collection by Kenzo. Once again, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have created a collection that is going to be everywhere.
Perfect Kenzo prints, bright colors combined with deep, darker ones and layers of sweaters, skirts and pants. Flowing, light skirts and dressed with large, warm shearling jackets reach perfect balance. It as a highly commercial, beautiful collection, that we won’t mind seeing everywhere.
Made By You by Converse
Converse has been gathering personal editions of the Chuck Taylor All Star all over the world. They come together in the campaign “Made by you”, which celebrates the uniqueness of every customized pair. People have been expressing themselves on their Chuck Taylors for nearly 100 years, which means it is time to bring them together and share their stories. A fresh pair of Chucks has always been like a blank canvas, and now we can explore different creations from artist to skaters and musicians.
Vetements at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
In between all luxury and sophistication, Vetements is a breath of fresh air. Demna Gvasalia does things a bit differently. His latest collection was presented in Le Depot, a gay club in Paris. We saw police uniform-inspired looks, oversized coats and long floral dresses combined with what seemed to be cleaning gloves.
Gvasalia mismatches subcultures and creates a new reality for city kids. Even though the collection is diverse – it contains bomber jackets to full length knitted dresses – every single piece says the same thing: “I won’t bother you if you won’t bother me.”
Marni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For next fall, Consuelo Castiglioni took a different look at femininity. The collection seemed to be inspired by the costumes of a Siberian tribe, with the long, wide skirts and dresses. Felt-like wool was embroidered with black florals and showed a modern look on ancient tradition.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Miuccia Prada presented us a quirky female villain from a cartoon, ready to take over the planet. Even though Miuccia herself has already taken over, we would like to discuss some of the things this antihero was wearing. Covered in pastels, bows and soft fur patches on her shoulders, this lady does not seem harmful at first sight. Cropped pants and groovy prints add to her innocence, while long leather gloves suggest otherwise. This girl is ready to do some dirty work.
We saw brilliant tailoring, beautiful details and fascinating combinations of textures. Brooches and buttons were quite subtly added to every look, making sure that every ensemble was screaming Prada. Not that Miuccia needs a few brooches for that, because everything we saw during this show could not be created by anyone else.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Thomas Tait at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Thomas Tait’s latest collection was the first after he received last year’s LVMH prize. This season, he showed a new kind of peacefulness with a hint of fetishism, which somehow worked out perfectly.
Oversized shirts with exaggerated collars, cuffs and pockets allowed Tait to create a distinctive silhouette that made us question femininity and the meaning of it. On the other hand, he effortlessly applied a glamorous, seventies sentiment, which made every look become sensual in a modest way. Futuristic details enhanced his slightly peculiar vision and showed that Tait is a man with a vision.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Porsche Design at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though the latest show by Porsche Design is a mixture of forties and eighties styles, futuristic vibes, utilitarian silhouettes and slight rockabilly influences, it still remains a coherent collection. Wool coats, stiff jackets and somewhat casual suits hint towards a young but ambitious target audience. Large belts exaggerate the waistline to create a strong, yet feminine look, while fall colors such as black, grey, dark green and beige make the garments highly wearable.
Pierre Costin, the designer behind the brand, has chosen to present a powerful and modern couple. Traditional values meet a new aesthetic, which offers us a playful interpretation of how power can look.
Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Z Zegna vamps up the velocity with its latest campaign, an ambitious multimedia affair, “Be Your Own Style 24:7”.
Interpreted within a high-octane film, the sports tailoring of Z Zegna’s Spring/Summer collection hits dizzying heights, sported by professional parkourists as they chase their next urban adrenaline fix from Milan’s exquisite architecture. Scintillating, sharp and impossibly sleek, Z Zegna’s modern man may seek out a life on the edge, but not at his sartorial expense – that’s one thing that’s kept cautious, 24:7.
Levi’s Customized and Tapered
Levi’s iconic 501 has been a wardrobe staple for generations. Altering its distinct high waist, button-down front, red tag or peg-top leg comes amiss regarding nostalgia. What Jakob Davis and Levi Strauss started some 150 years ago was the uniform of old Hollywood bad boys such as James Dean and Marlon Brando and turned 90s girls like Shannon Doherty of “90210” fame into sexy vixens. This spring, a fresh and hip take on the so-called mom jean, with different washes, shreds and funneled legs, elevates the 501 to the zeitgeist. Astonishingly, the CT embraces all the classical features of the 501, while banishing some of the pants’ less flattering downsides. Gone are the days of super tight jeans for statuesque skinny boys and girls. Pulling the pant up to the waist retains the sexy slim-leg silhouette while a classic regular fit can be achieved by pulling down the waistband a bit. Getting one a size larger achieves the über-comfy boyfriend fit. Each pair can be altered further, either with tried and tested sanding paper and scissors, or appliques, makers and all things imaginable to truly make this must-have your own.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
No matter how many times Rei Kawakubo gets her hands on tailoring, you can be sure that whatever she produces will be entirely distinct from anything gone before. This season proved no different, reliably idiosyncratic, yet impossibly singular.
Snug sleeved tops and leggings were scrawled in kaleidoscopic graffiti scripts, inky colors blushed and bleeding across the body. Biro-blue suits were sucked skin-tight, cinched in at the stomach by double-breasted buttons.
Traditional pinstripes sat fittingly far from convention, the way blazer buttons seemed to curl around the body, garments appearing almost reluctant – struggling to escape. Bulky blazers hung from shoulders and swung airily above shorn broad shorts, while mandarin collars carved jackets with a cunningly clean line. Culottes kicked out thanks to kilt pleats, paired with diamond-check golfing shirt and bow tie, before giving way to gummy leather suits, bandaging the body in strips of supple skins.
Augustin Teboul at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Arcane as an all-black palette persists to be, the presentation of Augustin Teboul’s FW15 collection emerged aptly esoteric against the backdrop of the label’s photography exhibition, ‘Sounds of Black’.
Hugo Capablanca and Tanja Siren
Twenty-nine photos lined the walls of Berlin’s Kronprinzenpalais, depicting extraordinary people in rather ordinary situations. Shot by the master lens of Stefan Milev, subjects such as Iris Berben, Meret Becker, Donata Wenders and Peaches were immortalised in black and white, each wearing pieces from the collection in their own irrepressible image.
Like others before, this season demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship, perceptibly made by hand and to inspiring effect; wools were knotted and barbed, hooked over shoulders and undulating in its web. Silk chiffon blouses bulged at the sleeve, tucked into long lacquered gloves with commanding flair. Pop shapes were punched out in supple leather, stitched together as a progressive kind of patchwork. Mesh turtlenecks were erratically exaggerated, occasionally coated in an abstract crochet, other times fringed in compartmentalised bursts. Colour may comprise of just one voice, but under Augustin Teboul, it certainly makes a sound.
lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
lala Berlin formed a flawless fairytale this FW15, sleek sweeping gowns in a sapphire spectrum, this season brought something of a Cinderella story. Chiffon sleeved dresses in ice blue slinked down the body and floated to the floor, cut out at the midriff like an inverted bodice, reimagined in negative space. You could say this was Piedayesh’s contemporary twist on the archetypal princess cut – and regal it was.
Gentle pleats plucked in the waist, wispy silken swathes left to fall like water from under elegant embroidered shell tops. Signature kaftans arrived in a pure azure hit, guilelessly graceful with its deep plunging neckline and fanning batwing sleeves, tracing the wrists to evoke the image of a butterfly. Longline jumpsuits ended the tale with a “happily ever after”, emerging as the ball gown’s cooler cousin in an insouciant sable silk, Swarovski epaulettes and all.
The presentation of the collection was a suitably imperial affair, with a gala banquet hosted at Berlin’s covetable restaurant, Crackers, in the company of some very special guests, including Heike Makatsch and Nina Hoss, alongside woman of the hour, Leyla Piedayesh – a fairy Godmother of sorts, seeing Cinderella safely through to midnight.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It’s easy to detect when there are two minds behind a design because their references are so cryptic – all hybrids and red-herrings. Valentino proves a case in point, as Perpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tread different paths in extracting their inspiration, and yet always seem to end up at the same point. This time, the mood found itself split between the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes in Paris, and the San Fransico Beat generation; disciples of two very different movements, but kindred in bohemian spirit.
For all the starched white shirts and sweaters and cigarette-slim cuts, with FW15, Valentino spawned a whole new movement of their own. Like Piccioli said, “Geometry is a new form of decoration”; he and Chiuri are master mathematicians, it would seem, commissioning Melbourne artist, Esther Stewart, to clad her compartmentalised color blocks over coats, knits and clutch bags – even the carpet wasn’t safe from her burnt, reedy hues. Moss greens and dusky blues struck a discordant note when hit with the shrill bite of tangerine, emblazoned across itemised silhouettes.
Pants assume the guise of denim, taking on a chambray sheen in indigo drills – paired with sheepskin, suede and puddled khaki camo, texture brought palette into line, regimented in Air Force tones. The butterflies of Spring/Summer gave way to their nocturnal cousins, embroidered across bomber jackets in moonlit midnight blue. Meanwhile, maps of the galaxy found their way into felting and charted across arms and chest, before fading to a flagrant op-art affair – a glittering comet shower stippling the surface of a pea-green silk suit. Valentino’s equation was surely a cryptic one, but one that warrants only one solution; two minds are most certainly better than one.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Paris. One of the most wonderful cities in the world. Perhaps unintentionally, it served as an inspiration of sorts to the post-Frida Giannini Gucci team that completely re-designed the FW15 collection, revealed during Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week, following the former Creative Director’s earlier-than-expected departure.
With only specks of information out in the open, one was left wondering, pre-show: would it be a success? Was it a success? In essence, it actually was, if only for once again reigniting everyone’s interest in the luxury fashion power house. The Parisian artiste vibe, explored through delicate, gender-bending pussy-bow blouses, slouchy trousers, charming berets and whimsical scarves, helped reveal a new, previously unseen side to the Gucci brand, once led by the king of oversexed fashion, Tom Ford. The Allen Ginsberg glasses and intelligent camel knits, wintry pom pom hats and beaded rose-pattern tops were both intriguing and exciting, an indication that what’s to come can only be better, even outstanding.
What does the future hold for Gucci? One can truly only guess. But whatever it might be, the world is holding its breath.
Dsquared2 at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
For some people, two decades could seem like a lifetime. For Dean and Dan Caten, however, it’s just the beginning. In celebration of Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, the Canadian fashion mavericks presented a roller-coaster of a show, a heart-warmingly concupiscent homage to their native land and Italian roots.
Complete with buffed-up boys-next-door and a red-hot Mary J. Blige, the jubilant FW15 presentation offered a lot more than just a mere revival of the “North American lumberjack” fantasy. Though distressed low-rise jeans, fur-trimmed parkas, shearling coats and oversized plaid shirts were at the core of the collection, the Caten twins had a few more Americana-infused tricks up their sleeves.
Galant, beautifully embroidered evening suits, for instance, were juxtaposed with fringed leather jackets and minuscule vests, tan cowboy belts and studded over-the-shoulder satchels. And if that’s not enough, add a neon pink zip-up coat to the mix. Here’s to the next 20.
Moschino at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
It’s FW15 at Moschino and what’s the vision for the season? A winter rave at the top of a snow-capped mountain. He may have been Creative Director for little less than a year, but when it comes to Jeremy Scott, you quickly learn to expect nothing short of fantastical.
His blizzard club culture coins sartorial snow wear, reconfiguring the jeans pockets of bleached 401s to live on as the unlikely insulation of the ski puffa. Thrown over bare chests, cropped shearling bombers and gold patchwork padded jackets bring cool down to sub-zero.
Faux fur is party to further fraudulence at the hands of bold animal skins, garish cow and zebra prints rendering fuzzy pelts brilliantly crass. Rough buffalo checks and Davey Crockett fox tails evoke an outdoorsy masculinity, while python print leather trousers, kilts and long johns revive the 80s club kid uniform – snow boots, goggles and full fur knapsacks, meanwhile, see them suited and booted for snow.
Ziggy and Stephan Marley Front John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Music trails John Varvatos like a shadow. So sweetly coupled are the two, twenty-one impossibly iconic seasons have seen Varvatos join forces with the likes of Iggy Pop, Willie Nelson, KISS and Ringo Starr, to name but a few – and the affinity extends to their latest collaboration, finding fitting figureheads in none other than Ziggy and Stephen Marley.
The Spring 2015 campaign was shot in Austin, Texas, by legendary rock photographer, Danny Clinch, and features the Marley brothers as the centerpiece of a striking and stoic family portrait.
Stripped down to its essence, the black and white portrait frames the siblings with a quiet yet charismatic purity, their pride and spirit speaking through against timeless sable-black tailoring; Ziggy Marley wears a black crocodile jacquard tuxedo and Richard dress shoe, while Stephen Marley is dressed in one button peak lapel Austin version, paired with a charcoal dress shirt and cap-toes.
An idea conceived under the eye of longtime Varvatos collaborator, YARD, the family portrait will be brought to life with the launch of an exclusive short documentary film directed by Clinch, in celebration of their father’s 70th birthday which falls on February 6th.
The film will debut on www.johnvarvatos.com on February 5th 2015.
Balmain Unveils Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Sorrenti
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
Strength is cemented in the Balmain woman, her control so staunchly ingrained, she could charge combat – and under Olivier Rousteing’s command, the battle has been declared.
The campaign, shot under the illusive gaze of Mario Sorrenti, extracts an essence of 1970s French cinema, with its warped realism and bleak urban outlook. Outfitted in a suitably subversive uniform, Balmain’s matchless cuts are none short of revolutionary under the agenda of Rousteing’s very modern warfare – everyday environments reinterpreted as pop battleground, prising fast food and eyes wide, entranced by video games, or fighting under the stark strip-lights of the subway. A covetable crusade indeed.
CHANEL Pre-Fall 2015
'Reincarnation', the short film starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams, was a prelude to the Paris-Salzburg 'Métiers d'art' show. Capturing the Austrian city's musical past (Salzburg was the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and served as the backdrop for 'The Sound of Music'), as well as its Baroque heritage, the collection, presented in Salzburg on 2 November, was brimming with historical references.
Variations of the CHANEL jacket (single-breasted, buttonless, cape-like, bolero, embroidered – you name it) were, rather understandably, the collection's focal point. It was here, in Salzburg, where the idea for the quintessential jacket was born thanks to Gabrielle Chanel's encounter with an impressively dressed lift operator at the city's Mittersill Hotel.
Baroque references were especially evident in the rich detailing – shimmering appliqués, gilded hooks and buttons, extravagant neck pieces and ruffled collars and sleeves. Adhering to the Alpine theme, models kept warm in tube socks or wooly tights, cosy jumpers and earmuffs.
Prada Opens New Menswear Store in Frankfurt
Prada has opened a new store in Frankfurt, dedicated to the brand's men's collections. Spread over two floors, the 1000 square metre space, located on the central Goetheplatz, was designed by architect and frequent collaborator Roberto Baciocchi and houses menswear, accessories, footwear and leather goods; it also accommodates 'Made-to-Order' and 'Made-to-Measure' services.
The Frankfurt location is defined by Saint Laurent marble floorboards, blood orange walls and a marble staircase. Masculine furniture and strong design accents elevate the refined interior.
Mulberry loves Wilderness
Oxfordshire based festival Wilderness will be visited by Mulberry this year. The fashion brand will host its own 'Mulberry loves Craft' tent allowing festival goers the opportunity to engage with Mulberry craftsmen and customize their own leather bracelet.
The Mulberry craftsmen will provide the public with the chance to learn how the iconic Bayswater bag is made and participate in a series of workshops across the weekend. To celebrate the launch of the Mulberry Cara Delivingne collection set for iniment release, Mulberry will host a picnic inside the private Walled Garden with special guests. The collaborative collection will be available online and in store from September.
Zoe Waters wins ITS Diesel Award
British fashion designer Zoe Waters has won the 2014 ITS Diesel Award. Taking place in Trieste , Italy on 12th July, the award show celebrates the talents and ideas of young people by offering a €25,000 award to the winner to invest in their career.
Awarded by Diesel artistic director Nicola Formichetti, Zoe will be offered a 6 month internship with the Diesel creative team as well as the cash prize. Speaking on Zoe, Formichetti describes the young designer's work as "in line with the Diesel DNA" and that she is "willing to work in a team". The event was attended by prestigious names from international fashion and media and aims to support young design talent in line with the enthusiastic and passionate ethos of Diesel.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
This time around Hien Le mixed things up a little by showing on the final day of Berlin Fashion Week, instead of opening the extravaganza. He still stuck to the purist, clean, understated designs that make the young Laotian one of Germany's most sought after designers. SS15's color palette is predominantly pastel, reminiscent of a fresh and sunny spring morning. Soft mint, white, light gray, royal blue and tangerine are mixed with fish and jelly fish prints, but the collection never turns loud or kitsch, but rather remains within the minimalist boundaries of the New Objectivity. A gimmick in Le's designs is the use of coated cotton, which appears to be soft leather.
Silk and chiffon add a soft touch to midi dresses, which Hien Le uses as layering pieces. Mesh shirts and full skirts loosen up the outfits, as do asymmetrical hem lines and peek-a-boo details, making Hien Le's SS15 collection surprising, stylish and understated. He is certainly one of the designers who have found their aesthetic and will stick to it, all the while keeping the crowd on their toes.
SCHUMACHER at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Getty Images
A complete overhaul best characterizes this SS15 showcase: gone are the days of understatement and wearability and with this turn of events comes a new name as well. SCHUMACHER makes a strong statement and re-brands itself as Dorothee Schumacher, after the label's creative director. It is this daring lady, who took a look back at what fashion - in it's purest form - is actually supposed to accomplish. The answer appears to be as simple as it is genius: suggest! Who are you underneath those layers of fabric? Who ever you want to be.
Dorothee Schumacher's SS15 showcase transformed this allusion into bondage elements paired with soft fabrics, feminine silhouettes, prints and girly ruffles. Harnesses covered in pastels, flower dresses with heavy belts, mini dresses covered by transparent parkas are all somewhat reminiscent of 90s grunge. Here they are mixed with sporty elements such as zippers and nylon fabric. Daid Moriyama's photographs are said to have inspired Schumacher and her almost philosophical approach to this collection. With designs like these, it's about time she became the namesake to the eponymous brand.
FIER vitrine Spring/Summer 2015
Ten well-selected international avant-garde labels presented their new collections in a group show during Berlin Fashion Week. Every corner of Lehrter Siebzehn was dedicated to another label and set up to create a showroom submerged entirely into the respective designer’s world. Each of the stalls showcased about three to four key pieces from the collections to give a brief introduction to the emerging design talents.
From Aussie designer Alexandra Hackett’s menswear collection, for which she created every piece from silver foil, draped black and gray avant-garde designs by 40 DECIBELS from Canada, detail oriented fairytale dresses with a hint of mystery by Karin Brettmeist from Germany, Australian Laura Banfield’s pieces that were nothing short of art, Laura Galati’s heavy knits (Australia), Germany’s Maja Daphne Holzborn and her vibrant prints and patchworks, urban streetwear by Brazilian Ocksa, Austria’s Ruins of Modernity and their contemporary styles all the way to Senhor Prudencio from Portugal and their amazing shoe designs and finally intriguing head pieces by Vasso Consola from Greece. All these designers are well on their way onto the fashion pack radar, so it won’t be too long until the fight for front row seats is on.
Isabell de Hillerin at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
White, black and soft gray are the dominating shades in Isabell de Hillerin's minimalist SS15 collection. Accents of royal blue, soft pink and jade break the understated palette for a summery vibrancy. Flowing fabrics and those exciting hues come together in an elegant, understated and chic ode to femininity. Isabell de Hillerin's current collection is called “Beyond”, fitting the designs to a t. They go far beyond your regular summer garb, ensuring to feel comfortable, beautiful and at ease. Straight, clean cuts sheathe the body, in these sport smart creations, that ranged from light summer pants, see-through shirts and button downs to loose fitting blazers and coats. Once again de Hillerin put on a show to lust after until next season.
Lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Exhibiting at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the Lala Berlin Spring/ Summer collection presented relaxed silhouettes, stylish patterns and creative layering. Adhering to the theme of "Illusion & Delusion", the collection fused contemporary and chic pieces with inventive sheer dresses to produce a laid back yet effortlessly cool aesthetic. Smart blazers were paired with loose fitted trousers and sleek leather jackets added a dominant edge. The showcase, presented on the 9th July at the Deutsche Oper attracted actresses Fritzi Haberlandt and Friederike Kempter as well as fashion icons including Gala Gonzalez and Camille Charriere.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
by Nora Hiller
It’s an air of nostalgia for boyhood and a longing for a distant future that surrounds the IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Small backpacks and colourful collar details in the shape of tiny triangles remind of a schoolboy days, while smart suits signal sophistication. Buttoned up shirts with short sleeves contrast loose fitting T-shirts with v-necks. A drawstring at the back of jackets and sleeveless vests is used to tighten the fit at waist level. The dominant colours are black, deep green, cobalt blue as well as a soft creme and pale pink, only a bright magenta ensemble stands out.
Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall 2014
Sleek sophistication was combined with the classic and the cultivated at the Armani Privé Fall 2014 Haute Couture show. In a monochrome and red color palette, Armani provided an experimental interpretion of classic Couture. Inventive dresses consisted entirely of netting and magnificent gowns were draped in polka dot organza. Capes were styled over smart shorts and extravagant, oversize fur coats made up entire outfits; it exuded refined luxury.
Levi's Made & Crafted Fall/Winter 2014 Collection
Using the contrast between the city and the mountains as inspiration, the latest Levi's Made & Crafted Fall/Winter 2014 Collection presents a casual and cool aesthetic.
Contemporary with a tone of sophistication, the men's and womenswear is relaxed yet refined and smart yet stylish. Comprising of edgy leather jackets, relaxed denims and comfortable knits, the collection provides a sleek way to sport casual wear.
Exhibiting a balance between "the indoor and the outdoor" and "the old and the new", the collection exudes modern and cultivated style.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Presenting a casual and feminine characteristic, the Loewe Spring 2015 collection provided a cool yet refined amalgamation. A demure colour palette was used on thick, striped sweaters paired with turned up, loosely fitted jeans and patent black brogues. Frayed, thick material was wrapped around models and worn as cardigans and distinctive patterns were decorated onto thick sweaters. A bohemian influence was seen on beige, worn out looking tops and chic motorcycle jackets added a stylish edge.
Marc Jacobs at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Offering a clean collection with a soft colour palette, the Marc Jacobs Spring 2015 Menswear show oozed sophistication whilst remaining original and quirky. Bright and vivid prints were embellished onto shorts and shirts and matching suits came in pastel pink, pale blue and bright red. A pink flamingo motif was present throughout the collection; emblazoned onto the back of a silky black bomber jacket, printed onto a shirt and worn as a brooch.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A softened elegance was presented at the Lanvin Spring Menswear 2015 show. Suits were polished yet oversize and slightly baggy, the layering was laid back and kept to a minimum and long sophisticated blazers were worn with tight, edgy neck scarfs. Chains were attached to belts and worn on skinny black trousers and colour blocked shirts were accompanied by snakeskin shoes, the result was a slick, polished and contemporary aesthetic with a rock and roll edge.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Inspired by ballet costumes, the Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 Menswear collection applied an athletic and slick aesthetic. Garments were deconstructed; outfits were accessorized with harnesses, unbuttoned shirts were paired with formal trousers and artistic embroidery was placed onto jackets.Looks were completed with stylish male ballet pumps and subtle prints were decorated onto matching blazers and trousers. Dries re interpreted men's occasion wear by producing an elegant yet edgy and impressively unique collection.
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adhering to a glam rock theme, the Saint Laurent 2015 Menswear show presented a theatrical element through top hats, gold embellished blazers and scarfs worn as capes. The collection fused sleek rock and roll with bohemian influencers to produce the archetypal relaxed rock aesthetic; mismatched prints were worn with denim and accessorized with silver jewelry and unbuttoned shirts were paired with embroidered black skinny jeans. Fabrics included velvet and leather and prints were amongst snakeskin, glitter, paisley and florals. The womenswear was less rock and rock and more relaxed bohemian with floaty dresses exhibiting simple yet distinct patterns and worn with beaded jewelry dominating the runway.
22/4 at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
The 22/4 Spring 2015 collection had a sporty yet slick feel. Relaxed and baggy silhouettes were laid back yet refined and designs were kept simple yet distinct. Cool sophistication was created through exaggerated tailoring; everything was slightly oversize and stylishly loose fitting, it exuded effortless chic. Sandals and t shirts were decorated with the 22/4 logo and dusky metallics and simplistic stripes added a uniqueness.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Presenting an array of monochrome pieces, Gucci applied a nonchalant design to their Spring 2015 Menswear collection. Jackets with sailor like button detail were combined with striped monochrome trousers and the same large buttons continued onto the top of loose fitting trousers. The mellow theme progressed onto casual trainers and luxurious loafers and bright bursts of vivid red and turquoise added eccentricity to the laid back collection.
PHILIPP PLEIN opened the second store in Milan
On Tuesday 24th June, PHILIPP PLEIN opened his second flagship store in Milan. Located on via Montenapoleone 23, the brand new flagship covers over 150 square metres and has been jointly designed by Philipp Plein and the Milanese architectural firm AquiliAlberg.
The swank and contemporary black, white and grey store consists of blocks of marble, PHILIPP PLEIN's hexagonal logo and CRYSTALLIZED™- Swarovski Elements studded onto the iconic skull. With space dedicated to both women's and childrens clothing and areas of constrasting light and shade, the flagship creates a relaxing, serene and exclusive shopping experience.
The opening which coincided with men's fashion week was greeted by a DJ set by David Vivirido and Francesco Sourigues from Hercules magazine and included a live performance from American rapper Theophilus London.
Speaking on the opening, Plein stated "I am both proud and thrilled to open on this renowned street, and I decided to create a true work of art for this special flagship, a tribute to a city that has contributed so much to my success."
Moncler Gamme Bleu at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adhering to a boxing theme, the Moncler Gamme Bleur Spring 2015 Menswear Collection presented a smart, sports luxe aesthetic. Overlayered ensembles worked excellently as they glided down the runway with high top sneakers. In keeping with the sporting theme, the colour palette which also made its way onto the models faces consisted of red, navy blue and white. The collection clashed the loosely fitted with tight fitted ensembles and deconstructed the classic suit by styling smart shirts, high waist trousers and bow tyes with casual hooded sporty jackets and sneakers. The colours transformed into a cool and chic grey mixture with grey, black and white prints clashing. Blazers and shirts were juxtaposed with padded oversize coats, sporty loose fitting shorts and knee length, lace up sneakers. The womenswear remained just as sporty but was kept more restricted and confined and less relaxed and playful.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Fusing refinement with edginess, PHILIPP PLEIN sent garments down the runway heavily emblazoned with skull and bones logos as well as rhinestone-studded jackets and sequin embellished blazers. Dipping in and out and casual and smart wear, the collection incorporated sleek blazers worn with matching trousers and loafers and laid back embroidered denim shirts, ripped jeans and causal sweatpants. Making a statement through the vividness of the garments, Plein presented an energetic and dynamic amalgamation that transcended into a coherent and wearable collection.
Calvin Klein Collection at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Light beige was a persistent colour on the Calvin Klein Collection runway with vests layered onto t – shirts, smart blazers worn with shorts and oversize shirts. The collection largely consisted of all one colour ensembles with specks of bright oranges, yellows and reds being incorporated onto the light beige coordinates. Innovative bright transparent plastic jackets paired with straight black trousers added an eccentricity to the mostly demure compilation and a unique shade of deep brown embodied the contemporary and refined man.
London Collections: Men Day Three
The third and final day of London Collections: Men brought together some of the most inventive and original fashion talent to conclude the thrilling three day event.
Labelled as a ‘silent protest’, Craig Green’s first solo show evoked emotions in the audience as well as the designer himself. The extremely inventive collection saw fabrics deconstructed and uniquely layered to create a delicate yet distinct combination. The all black, all white and all blue ensembles were worn with bare feet as the fabric effortlessly flowed to the sound of soft music and comprised of one of a kind silhouettes.
Bright and bold combos were showcased on the highly anticipated Burberry Prorsum catwalk. Classic suits were modernised by being displayed in bright colour palettes and accompanied by graffiti emblazoned bags and trainers and sophisticated bucket hats. Exquisite suede jackets were placed over denim jackets and logo decorated t –shirts were worn with suit trousers and oversize scarfs to embody the contemporary and stylish man.
Held at the Opening Ceremony store in London, the brands presentation exhibited a polished, sports luxe aesthetic that incorporated summery palm tree prints, soft and relaxed lines and sharp colour blocking. The laidback collection consisted of long, light overcoats and slim fitting trousers in an array of intriguing fabrics and materials producing a quirky yet cool compilation.
The third day’s shows concluded with a striking showcase from Nasir Mazhar. The collection referenced hip hop culture through heavily logoed street style and relaxed, loose fitting materials. Smart white shirts were juxtaposed by being paired with casual basketball shorts and sweatpants, gold metallic jacquard was embellished onto matching two pieces and deep metallic blue was incorporated onto shorts and vests to create a more luxurious look. Adhering to his signature style, Mazhar produced a street wear collection with a high end undertone.
Presenting a fusion of established and new designers, the three day occasion has grown in popularity and talent, thus cementing London as one of the most exciting and innovation fashion cities in the world.
London Collections: Men Day 2
The second day of London Collections: Men produced an exciting amalgamation of captivating street style, compelling fashion and lively parties. The relaxed yet stimulating atmosphere continued with catwalks from KTZ, Jimmy Choo, Alexander McQueen and Moschino and presentations from Kit Neale, Christopher Kane and Duchamp.
One of the first shows of the day, J.W. Anderson who is known to blend gender presented a similar aesthetic in his Spring/ Summer 2015 collection by merging male and female styles. Masculine suits were exquisitely fitted, smart brogues were given flatforms and large wrap around scarfs were worn as ties. The experimental tone of the collection was continued with suits being deconstructed and knitted crop tops styled with loose fitting suit trousers. A truly original combination, Anderson applied his signature unconventional style to a wearable and unique collection.
At the Alexander McQueen show abstract designs were displayed onto all white and all black canvases of trousers, jackets and coats. Smart yet chic patterned suits were worn with casual trainers, emulating a stylish yet easy going look. Relaxed silhouettes were seen on loose bomber jackets and culottes and patent leather was incorporated onto oversize coats and jackets. Entirely sleek without losing a unique edge, the collection was smart and creative.
Before his party hosted by i-D Magazine, Jeremey Scott’s first menswear collection for Moschino did not disappoint and embodied a fun, lively and bright vibrancy. No stranger to branding, Scott graced garments with the words ‘Moschino’ and ‘Fauxschino’. In an explosion of colour, logos and smiley faces, the Moschino collection creatively used layering and referenced hip hop through transparent netting, gold chains and dollar signs while also incorporating womenswear.
The last catwalk of the day came from Casely-Hayford who integrated the trend normcore into their smart and dapper collection. A gentlemen demeanour was reinvented with pinstripe decorated sports caps, suit blazers transforming into oversize coats with zip detailing and slogan tees worn with traditional pin stripe suit trousers. It was sharp, slick and seemingly effortless, classic menswear was skilfully revived all in a demure colour palette with shades of blue, green and gold. Day two was wrapped up nicely.
Diesel Pre Fall 2014
Fusing fashion advertising and fine art, Diesel have created a new and creative vision for their Pre Fall 2014 campaign through the use of the digital medium.
Taking inspiration from Michelangelo, Avedon and the Renaissance, Artistic Director of Diesel Nicola Formichetti has created an interesting juxtaposition between the classical and the digital with the campaign echoing historic Italian art whilst remaining modern and sleek appealing to the younger generation.
Photographed by Nick Knight, the campaign entitled ‘Neo-neoclassic’ initiates a new era for Diesel in which the old is strikingly combined with the new and the historic with the contemporary.
Fendi Resort 2015 Collection
Chic and elegant lines were decorated with sharp, colourful and detailed designs in the Fendi Resort 2015 collection.
Prada Womenswear Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring stunning Argentinian model Mica Arganaraz and photographed by Steven Meisel in New York, Prada’s latest campaign displays the Fall/Winter 2014 womenswear collection.
Effortlessly cool, the vivid and chic collection looks luxurious next to the sharp architecture and captures the striking silhouettes of the clothing. A video of the campaign will be unveiled soon on prada.com.
Sensual and delicate yet powerful and strong, the campaign is shot against a calm, grey backdrop of concrete and window panes which provided the perfect standout for the colourful and textured clothing.
‘A new art of living through perfume’ is the thesis behind Hermes new collection of colognes, perfumes and bath time essentials that ‘open up a world of perfumed experiences, sensations and images’.
The bath time collection includes creamy bubble bath, revitalising shampoo, hydrating balm and toning gel to make bath times a luxurious and intimately relaxing experience. Comprising of irresistible fragrances and silky soft textures, the Hermes bath time collection makes for a soothing experience.
The perfumes and colognes incorporate the spirit of travel and use raw materials to create light and satisfying scents to accompany the complete bath time ritual. Hermès Bath time provides the ultimate sensory experience engaging the sight, smell and touch and is available in a range of textures, colours and designs to suit your mood.
MYKITA Opens at BIKINI BERLIN
Berlin's most recent addition to shopaholic heaven, the first ever concept mall BIKINI BERLIN, can call sunglasses label MYKITA one of its own now. Like so many before it, MYKITA, too, has expanded from too-cool-for-its-own-good Mitte to City West, the rediscovered heart of the old chic city. The mall itself is housed in the Bikinihaus, a contemporary witness to the city's tumultuous past.
Designed by Paul Schwebes and Hans Schoszberger in 1957, the complex is made up of a dyadic architecture that has now been fully glazed. The new MYKITA store with its polished, reduced interior fits in like a charm. From regular ones to sunglasses, the store appears like an ocean of mirrors, all in the label’s trademark styles.
The MYKITA + Maison Martin Margiela collection consists of two different design approaches: Essential and Dual. The former are made of high-grade steel and reduced to the raw material without any additive pieces. The latter are two pairs made from acetate, born from one mold, then broken and reconstructed. This new eye-wear collection reflects the synergy of both houses perfectly, just like the new space MYKITA occupies now.
Dior: The Legendary Images
Held at the Christian Dior Museum in Granville Normandy, Dior: The Legendary Images showcases the extraordinary and stunning relationship between the fashion house and the photographers who helped cement their fame worldwide.
Included in the exhibition is talented American photographer Pat English who photographed Christian Dior’s first fashion show. This contributed to the international success of Dior’s highly popular and fashionable ‘New Look’. The exhibition also presents the iconic 1955 photograph displaying Dovima posing elegantly and showcasing a classic Dior aesthetic in between two elephants shot by Richard Avedon. This same trademark Dior elegance is captured in Willy Maywald’s mesmerising images shot on the streets of Paris of women in exquisite and chic evening wear and overcoats.
Also highlighting modern Dior photography, the exhibition hosts the work of Nan Goldin who captures actor Robert Pattinson effortlessly spread across the page for Dior Homme in 2013 and Natalie Portman looking ornately stunning in a series for Miss Dior shot by Paolo Roversi.
Truly legendary, these images are homage to the greats of fashion photography and a tribute to the timeless and cultivated style Of Dior. The exhibition will take place on May 3rd and continue through to September 21st 2014.
Armani/Casa 2014-2015 Collection
The creation of the Armani/Casa Exclusive Wallcoverings Collection is the collaboration between leading Italian furnishings company Jannelli&Volpi and fashion house Giorgio Armani that produces “a style of living and furnishing that expresses a sense of beauty.”
Offering a vast range of wall coverings, furnishings and decorations, the sophisticated compilation of designs add a characteristic elegance and cool refinement to a room and adheres to a minimalist yet welcoming aesthetic.
Comprising of a fresh colour palette ranging from warm beige, brown and grey to colder blue, light lime green and metallic grey, the designs provide crisp and refined household decorations that are simultaneously contemporary and traditional. With designs including shell motifs and geometric detailing, the collection is inspired by the Far East, nature and stones.
The sleek and innovative furnishings and wall coverings are available at all Armani/Casa stores worldwide as well as at authorized retailers.
Diesel Venice Collection
A year on from his appointment as Artistic Director of Diesel, and the world’s eyes are still unfalteringly fixed on every ingenious movement of Nicola Formichetti, who premiered his debut collection for the fashion house last week. More than any other director gone before, Formichetti is acutely aware of the 35-year-strong heritage he has commandeered, abiding to his rather gallant take on governance that decrees honour before egoism.
What more apt venture, then, than to revisit the soil that bedded Diesel’s roots. ‘Welcome to Venice’ was the title for Formichetti’s inaugural collection, an acknowledgement of its origins in the city of Venice, as much as it served to articulate the global vista of the brand. Built upon Diesel’s iconic trinity of denim, rock ‘n’ roll leather and military utility, each segment accompanied by the filmic vision of friend and long-time collaborator, Nick Knight, and a live performance by Diesel’s modern muse, Brooke Candy. For Formichetti, the structured progression of the show mapped out the direction of his unique creative vision, from heritage to innovation until finally, the streets – which is, ostensibly, where Diesel reigns today – the Venetian canals were but a beginning.
Pharrell Williams and adidas
Submerging himself into the fashion scene, musician Pharrell Williams who’s already set to collaborate with fashion brands including COMME des GARÇONS, Moncler and G-Star has recently announced that he will be working on a collaborative line with sportswear label adidas.
Williams has always demonstrated an interest in fashion with the launch of his own fashion label entitled Billionaire Boys Club and the creation of a collaborative fashion brand with a Japanese streetwear label titled ‘Ice Cream’. But it was his extravagant yet classy Vivienne Westwood hat first debuted at the Grammy’s that quickly propelled the singer into the mainstream fashion sphere and led him into being dubbed a “pop – culture icon” by Dirk Schoenberger, creative director at adidas. The inevitable relationship between music and fashion is at its height and with this exciting collaboration it seems to be continuing, Williams noted that “I’m really appreciative to adidas for allowing me to further develop and understand my design dreams.” With adidas currently having beaten off rivals to claim the enviable title of bestselling sportswear brand and Kanye West leaving competitors Nike to collaborate with the brand, the upcoming collection set to be released this summer and is fated to be a hit!
Moncler Gamme Rouge at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Moncler Gamme Rouge gave us an ultra-slick wardrobe to be snowed in with at their FW14 show during Paris fashion week. Woolly caps were combined with oversize coats and straight skirts worn over leggings to stylishly prepare us for the winter. It was modern, it was shiny and it was futuristic. Eye blindingly shiny silver covered oversize coats as well as sleek black croc leather and bright geometric prints to add drama to the largely polished pieces.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Set in a CHANEL themed supermarket with each shelf merchandised with CHANEL produce, the FW14 show presented dressed up daywear with sportswear references. Cut up body hugging trousers and crop top combinations were juxtaposed with bright mismatched geometric prints seen on large coats, long dresses and the lining of coats. There was a theme of matching pairs with an added elegance through layered white pearls. Ruffled pink princess yet chic dresses were edged up with knee length laced up trainers and shiny silver metallic leggings were worn under large tweed overcoats. This was a show of successful contrasts.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Louis Vuitton FW14 show paired complimentary silhouettes and applied a relaxed yet stylish aesthetic to their collection. Luxe and luscious fur was used in a toned down way, opting to apply it to an oversize biker jacket cut with a leather middle belt and ultra-modern shiny leather was seen on skinny trousers, long croc coats and strappy zip up croc leather low cut vests. This was contrasted with 70s references made through geometrics printed onto shirts and tops paired with brown and orange skirts and turtle necks, providing a strong and understated look.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A Bohemian chic was fused with luxe glitzy glamour at the John Galliano FW14 show. Not a usual mix, but wearable and appealing all the same. Earthy tones were splashed onto jumpsuits, floaty dresses and structured, fur collared coats to give a day out in the countryside feel. This was accompanied with chic, uptown glamour represented through luscious velvet and sparkling floor length dresses. The styles clashed triumphantly.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A blanket of black and white with glimpses of luxurious gold constituted the Ann Demeulemeester FW14 show. The collection, consisting of both menswear and womenswear depicted a demure yet distinct darkness that adopted a gothic theme while still adhering to a feminine aesthetic. The womenswear was heavily deconstructed through the folding and wrapping of materials to create a fearless and fiery look whilst the menswear combined clean lines with dark punk that embodied sharpness with edge.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Haider Ackermann FW14 show presented a satisfying equilibrium between masculinity and femininity. Styles were merged with sophisticated long grey suits paired with thick black sweatband style headbands to give a relaxed edge. Sophistication continued with floor length coats worn with flared suit trousers and head to toe black loose fitting pieces. Haider Ackermann watered down the sophisticated element by offering a high end chic look with short leather jackets paired with all grey outfits and sleek black ankle boots. This provided a wearable and effortlessly elegant demeanor.
Hogan Fall/Winter 2014
Italian fashion brand Hogan have partnered with British designer Simon Holloway to create an elegant yet chic FW 2014 – 15 collection entitled Neo Romantic. Inspired by 1970s romantic decadence and 1990s Corrine day photography, the collection comprises of an eclectic mix of psychedelic prints, modern and sleek suits paired with casual trainers, oversize biker jackets, fur coats and long hippy style dresses.
A minimalist dandy boy style is referenced through excellently tailored suits, lustrous goatskin biker jackets and wool flannel and moleskin coatsuits. Cashmere fur biker jackets add a modern and trendy edge to classically tailored suits and psychedelic, hip prints by Julie Verhoeven add a funky edge to boots, shoes, dresses and suits. Coming in a colour palette of monochrome, grey, deep purple, magenta and blood red, the collection represents a fuse between the modish and the refined to produce an amalgamation of exciting clothing that adheres to Hogan’s versatile urban style.
Day 4: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Simple, graceful structure was partnered with creative patterns and colour mixes to create the Bottega Veneta FW ’14 collection. The styles embodied strong femininity while referencing futuristic fashion with the use of graphic black and white prints. Deep purple and burgundy softened the clean lines and extravagant snakeskin bags added a luxurious flare.
Crisp whites, greys and light pastels were showcased alongside blacks, mustard yellows and deep turquoises to create an urbane appearance at the Jil Sander FW ’14 show. Sharply cut coats and straight and metallic dresses bared signature to Sander’s clean – cut aesthetic while the experimental colour palette provided a burst of excitement. Oversize jackets were paired with straight suit trousers and platform brogues to bring a new meaning to office chic while turtle neck sweaters and high waist skirts provided girly sophistication.
HUGO BOSS at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For Fall/Winter 2014/15 young talented creative director Jason Wu showcased a feminine, yet sophisticated debut, that -without question- was able to carry on the brand's DNA. Rich in high-quality fabrics, Jason tailored a line of solid garments out of cashmere and silk hold in black, camel and gray shades. Minimal A-line skirts,long coats with rounded shoulders, next to transparent chiffon dresses made the modern BOSS woman appear self-confident and delicate.
Philipp Plein Underwear
Shortly after Philipp Plein's cowboys pranced down the runway at the Fall/Winter 2014 show in Milan, the Swiss Maison is delight to present it‘s men‘s underwear debut. Embodying the essence of beauty, innovation, fun and sensuality, the collection consists of sporty boxers, briefs and shorts made of comfortable jersey. And of course, the new campaign features images by Steven Klein. In a luxury 'Fight Club', he transforms his protagonists into wild wrestling bad boys, when the animal instinct and lust for life emerges. Co-existing to the images, a video completes the thought of body-to-body struggle: it's night, when two shirtless boys walk into a deli and escape back into a limousine. Superimposed by haunting fighting sequences, the video encapsulates the campaign's spirit: Battle with all your forces!
Dior at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
On monday, at the Dior Haute Couture, Raf Simons focused on the idea of intimacy and showcased elaborately designed garments, in which he dealt with the 'idea of woman per se'. Even the location -a white modernist cave- showed the main idea of the show: soft curves and abstract sculptural expressions.
Speaking of delicacy of handwork, Simons designs had a complex, yet light and clean architectural approach, almost surrounding the bodys like organic shapes and adjusting to their movements. Silk, chiffon and delicate lace sybolized the intimacy of the female body. Chopped-out balloon cocktail dresses or volounious airy skirts were made of semi-transparent fabrics and embellished with repetitive patterns in white, black and pastel colours.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The dark and sober collection by Véronique Nichanian had more understated luxury than ever. Almost anonymous, the collection featured slim suits with simple tops and slouchy coats with set-ins of sleeve just balancing a little bit below the shoulder. Black leather and furry or shiny surfaces were reoccurring motifs, as was sport. Although the latter never took over the collection, touches could be found in hiking-boots, parka's and most decisive: a puffer jacket. In crocodile leather that is.
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mysterious as the fables by Jean de la Fontaine, the recent collection by Thom Browne veered between the animal and human. The first half of the collection consisted of Browne's trademarks like cropped tweed jackets and pants with the famous red-white-blue ribbon. Seemingly, he put all his imagination in the head dresses, designed by milliner Stephen Jones. Different types of hats depicted all sorts of animals, from elephants to mouses. The second half of the collection brought back Browne's showmanship in clothes. Like couture, the jackets and pants had an imaginative sensibility with broad shoulders and hips while the waist was kept slim. This made for a broad, regal silhouette, highlighted with leaf-prints and -appliqués.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Classicism meets purism in designer Ivan Mandzukic’s fall/winter 2014/15 collection. The most recent designs of menswear label IVANMAN were inspired by Alejandro Jodorowsky’s 1973 classic La Montaña Sagrada – The Holy Mountain to reflect a play on gender roles. Classical shapes are accentuated femininely by the subtle use of transparency and details in the way the pieces are cut – strong overlapped shoulders and uniform shirts counter for an overall masculine look. IVANMAN’s new collection speaks a very personal and purist language while managing to cleverly update classics like trench coats, sweaters and pleated pants.
Mandzukic’s distinct sense for proportions paired with severe details like high-necked, stiff collars complete the menswear look for the upcoming fall season. A big selection of quality wool, delicate knits, cotton and heavy sweater fabric dominate the collection. The designer combines heavy hues such as Bordeaux and aubergine with soft beige and classic black and white for a seasonal color palette.
Kris van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
As young as the models at Kris van Assche's Fall/Winter 2014 collection looked, they surely looked ready to take on the world. Big coats made from thick wool or nylon were worn on classics like white shirts and slim pants. Extra layers consisted of round sweaters and sleeveless vests that were sometimes worn over suits to give the idea of a bullet proof vest. Aside from the protective attitude, there was also a time and a place for some fun with pop appliqués in multiple colors and short schoolboy blazers.
Julius at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In the presence of more than a few stroboscopes, Tatsuro Horikawa of Julius outed his Fall/Winter 2014 collection and it seemed to come straight from the future. Apparently the designer isn't to optimistic about it, as he mentions "extremely deformed bodies" and "nervous pulses" in the shownotes. Even though the day after tomorrow isn't all that what we hope to be, at least we can protect ourselves (and look cool) with the built-up shoulders and wrapped necklines of Julius. Mostly black, the collection experimented on layering and volume. Later, in white, the most comforting part of the show came: a material that evoked a blanket that was used for tunnel necks and big coats.
ICEBERG at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The new ICEBERG collection, introduced during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, clearly took inspiration in Bruce Wayne's Gotham City, transforming all it's protagonists into a heroic Batman. The innovative use of textures and prints in combination with luxurious and modern fabrics, underlined the spirit of transformation. Along with mohair knits, jacquard jackets, neoprene sweatshirts, silk and poplin shirts, Federico Curradi did not miss out on embellishing his garments with the brands signiture: 3D graphical prints.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Valentino's head-designers Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pierpaolo Piccioli talked about their idea to bring a nonchalant and comfortable influence to their luxurious menswear. The shownotes explain: “Private becomes public and vice versa.” Which resulted in pajamas' in pinstripes or tweeds and big winter coats that feel like robes. The core of the Valentino-brand remains the tradition of Haute Couture and that even manifests itself in the menswear collections. As relaxed as some jackets and coats dance around the body, so much work goes into the inner workings of the garment, balancing it just right on the shoulder. This not only gives a feeling of craftsmanship to the wearer, but also reinforces the idea of comfort and homeliness. That also explains the rug-like materials for some coats and the luscious knits. Quirky details like an owl on the back with wings reaching over the shoulders took the collection out of the house and into the woods. And for that the Valentino-man has a decadent fishers hat.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Miuccia Prada showcased a restrained, yet eclectic menswear collection. Once again, she proofed her skills for traditional high-quality craftsmansship and her well developed sense of adjusting colours. Sporting shawl collars and satin Shirts were ascesoriesed with multicoloured fey scarves. Her setting was held in a rather minimalistic ambiance, featuring a live orchestra with German music from the thirties.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Philipp Plein's cowboy and Wild Western-themed collection, was born out of his childhood memories, when he dreamt of empty saloons, sheriffs on horses and hunted banditos. His looks were sometimes topless and accessorized with saddles, bolo ties, badges, reptile belts and fringes. Crystal studded blazers, biker jackets and sheriff dusters were the highlights of the show, which ended by a performance of legendary rapper Angel Haze.
KTZ at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
KTZ Fall/Winter 2014
For this year’s LC:M mens‘wear collection, KOKON TO ZAI' s spiritual-tribal interpretations have pushed the statement even further. Known for the use of meaningful symbols, the two designers Marjan Pejoski and Sasko Bezovski graced oversized bomber jackets, hoodies and tight leggins with leather lazer cuts in labyrinth-like sanskrit and cryptic typography, all kept in a monochromatic white and black colour palette.
G-STAR RAW UTILITY
After star chef Sergio Herman closed his memorable 3 Michelin star awarded restaurant Oud Sluis based in the Netherlands on the 22nd of December 2013, he now has a new life time project together with his right hand Nick Bril. Located in a chapel of a former military hospital in Antwerp, the 'The Jane' opens doors early 2014. For that occasion a specially designed workwear collection by G-Star will be launched: the G- STAR RAW Utility collection. The exclusive line adds an extra dimension to G-Star's passion for authentic functionality and consists of six designs with which the team, from chef to hostess to sommelier, can make their own combinations. 'Just like me, The Jane‘s concept is out of the box, which suits G-Star. The brand is raw, consistent and innovative, which is what I always try to be', says Sergio. He has put the finishing touches to the kitchen proof collection, including the chef's jacket with special pockets for culinary utensils.
The official launch of RAW Utility will take place in February 2014 during the opening of 'The Jane‚ in Antwerp. The innovative collection will be available online from March 2014.
REPLAY For FC Barcelona
As an official partner of the FC Barcelona, the denim brand REPLAY will design the formal outfits and casual wear of the Spanish football team for the next four years. Under the theme 'Denim, made to measure‘, the exclusive garments are tailor-made from high-quality materials, yet still strongly influenced by the brands denim heritage. For events, the players will wear two different looks in indigo-blue interpreting jeans in a new light. The first look consists of a custom-made suit of blue-gray iridescent comfort denim in combination with a shirt made of 100% cotton. Also the second look -a suit made of pure wool with dark-blue herringbone patterns- shows up the trendy slim-fit.
On top of this, the 'smart casual collection' creates a sporty, yet elegant look, inclu- ding the REPLAY Denim Zero°-Jeans -the highlight of this line- washed with REPLAY's eco-friendly process in which high-pressure ice crystals reduce water consumption by 90%, minimising its en- vironmental impact. Furthermore, overcoats and newly- invented REPLAY footwear -including the Oxford and Brogue model- will complete the football players out-standing looks.
Fans can shop the FC Barcelona Capsule Collection FW 2013/14 including the REPLAY Denim Zero°-Jeans in REPLAY stores and online.
G-SESSIONS Final - Vote Now
How to one up a year long anniversary celebration? By giving a group of young talents the chance to design their own G-SHOCK model in a contest. Renowned mentors from all G-SESSIONS destinations have selected one contestant to take under their wing and helped them create a watch design. The mentors are designer Patrick Mohr, singer and producer Ghostpoet, design-duo Tomas Overtoom and Liza Korfman, artist Kirikoo Des, action sport photographer Nikita Vilkin Yarutskiy, MTV presenter-turned DJ Johann Wald, Marcelo Burlon and County Of Milan designer Giorgio Di Salvo. A presentation entailing a song, a performance, a video clip or a piece of art supports each creation. From now on, the designs can be voted on online at www.g-sessions.de. Who will come out on top?
During the G-SESSIONS Finals on the 28th of November the winning design will be announced, and later produced and sold in a limited edition. Obviously, winning would rock. But so does voting, as all participants are in the mix to either win a limited edition of the winning design or a trip to Berlin to attend the G-SESSIONS Finals. In light of the award ceremony in Berlin, G-SHOCK will launch two new models from the Gold Series in rose gold. With analog digital displays in different gold hues and black, these sturdy models are treats for all G-SHOCK fans and a great pick-me-up in case you don‘t win a limited edition for voting.
G-Star RAW Presents Afrojack Capsule Collection
This November G-Star RAW is launching a unique six-piece capsule collection in collaboration with the Dutch DJ and music producer Afrojack. The limited collection consists of black leather and denim A-Crotch pants that G-Star designed in the brand's renowned 3D style, tailor-made for the acclaimed artist's performances earlier this year. In addition to that the collection features great T-shirts, a black hoodie and a cap, all dominated in black and white. The 'A' trademark is continued in the 'RAW' artwork and conveys a modern and technical feel with a glossy, high-density technique. Part of the collection will contribute to the MTV Music Awards.
The collection will be available from 10th of November. Watch the Making-of video on
Marc Jacobs Accessories Shop Opening
Some Marc Jacobs is great, but more Marc Jacobs is better. It doesn’t come as a surprise then that one of Berlin’s more luxe destinations – the Galeries Lafayette – have added the designer’s main line to their portfolio, which, until now, already included the younger and more affordable Marc by Marc Jacobs. The accessories shop is situated on the ground floor and offers goods from the Fall/Winter ‘13 collection, such as the super-feminine and modern “The Metropolitan" – a rather classical and sober bag in a high-velocity mix of velour and nappa leather.
Or the dearly personal “The 1984" – an elegant and feminine homage to the 80ies, Jacob’s graduation from Parsons The New School for Design, Madonna’s hit “Like a Virgin" and last but not least the designer’s encounter with Robert Duffy and the subsequent manifestation of the fashion brand under his name.
Levi's® Revel Launch
Denim is the universal everyday uniform. Skinny or high-waist, boyfriend or drop-crotch, the selection seems endless. Unfortunately, so does finding that one perfect pair. Enter Levi's®, who have been on the forefront of finding the perfect jeans throughout the company‘s history. Last night they unveiled their latest breakthrough at their Berlin store. What started with the female-only Lady Levi‘s® in 1934 and went high-tech with the Curve ID system in 2010 has gone through yet another evolution.
The Levi‘s® Revel employs liquid shaping technology, a system that infuses the denim with a liquid to control its stretch in all the important places and highlights the female form by lifting and modeling the silhouette. 'Super memory retention‘ in the four-way-stretch is an ideal partner in crime, letting the Revel snap back to its original form no matter what shenanigans they‘ve been put through.
The Revel is based on the Levi‘s® Curve ID Fit System, and available in Slight, Demi and Bold Curve. Details such as the special contouring finish, elongated seams or the positioning of pockets are supposed to optimize the silhouette. A number of finishes, washes and colors, as well as skinny or straight legs assure the right model for all shapes, sizes and tastes.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 Miu Miu adorned the runway with exclusive garments hitting the spirit of the swinging sixties. Miuccia Prada sent out retro looking coats with big buttons, fringe-beaded dresses in a range of vivid and pastel colours. Wool tights were combined with twin set tops and patent leather skirts in pastel colours.Cuts and shapes were slightly remininding of schoolgirl uniforms.Wild patterns and prints of ornaments showing birds, cats and flowers highlighted fluffy coats. Paying attention to those eye-catching details, the collection was playful, girlish yet sophisticated and feminine, what in other words defines Miu Miu as an extravagant brand.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Kenzo for Spring/Summer 2014 staged a unique and impressive runway set with a huge waterfall installation and splashes synchronized with the music beat in a rather unusual neighbourhood for a Fashion Week Venue: the suburb Saint Denis.The collection was speaking the true vocabulary of nonchalance and effortlessness. Laid-back streetwear was combined with a strong manner of japanese aesthetics and modern fashion.
The two young designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon managed to showcase a purist sense of permeability found in masculine cuts and sporty silhouettes. Sleeveless blazers, pleated pants and midriff blouses with fishes and waves transformed in graphic patterns were the key elements of most of the garments and illustrated Kenzo‘s affection for outstanding prints. The base colour of most of the pieces was a strong blue and lilac on a black and white base. Besides making a strong fashion statement, this show also committed to a strong political awareness regarding ocean pollution and overfishing.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The collection of iconic fashion designer Donatella Versace has been a divine highlight at this Spring/Summer 2014. Bringing up the attitude of rock energy and effortless luxury, it is all going in the direction of creating a fresh streetwear look for the day and a strong appearance at night. The coming season is going to be dominated by leather and denim. Low waisted circle skirts combined with bra‘s made of gauzy fabrics and again and again heavy silver chains and rivets are the basic substance of this collection. Followed by a range of pieces covered with floral patterns in the shades of lilac, as well as exclusive nightwear dresses made of shining fabrics, this collection is clearly a prelude to a powerful 21st century in the signature of Versace. The show got closed with the legendary summer hit „Versace“ by Mikos.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Jil Sander‘s performance on fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was straightforward, linear and dominated by precise cuts. After the german fashion designer has left the brand twice and now is back, this Spring/Summer 2014 feels liberated and relaxed, perhaps because Sander now has finally arrived. According to be the “Queen of less“, the show demonstrated, that less sometimes is more. Being loyal towards her standards and principles, this collection was “Joyful Serenity“ and minimalism par excellence. Made of a combination of simple shapes and unique materials, Sander has showcased stunning garments, highlighted by her pure style elements, she is being adored for. Belly tops and midi skirts gave a shimmer of youthness, slightly wide capri pants and buttonless blazers added some elegant key notes, all in a rather restrained colour palatte.
Burberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Burberry Prorsum for Spring/ Summer 2014 season showcased a collection of warmness and fragility. Cashmere cardigans, new construed trench coats, gracile pencil skirts and tops of organza in pastel shades of lavender, rose, mint, and cornflower blue created an idea of something sexy and a little vulnerable but with something protective and safe and top. Laces with floral patterns underlined the romantic approach this collection had
Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 2014
The must-see show on London Fashion Week’s schedule was no other than Vivienne Westwood, opening with a dramatic dance performance by Lily Cole inspired by Hans Christian Andersen.
Westwood later saying in an interview that this performance was about the consequence of global climate warming. Great craftsmanship and bizarre beauty got visible in hand tailored and draped jumpsuits and dresses dominated by olive green, earthy colours with floral photo prints. Climate as a key word printed on a top and crazy cosmetics related to the origin topic of environment change made this show outstanding and memorable.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela for this Spring/Summer 2014 showcased a conceptual collection highlighting pure perfection and vivacity. Accompanied by synth sounds and floating riffs, Margiela sent out on the runway contemporary casual garments, oversized tops and short cuted blazers. Speaking the true spring vocabulary in a neutral colour pallet, this collection shows an innovative attitude.
L’ Aventure Pop-up Shop opens up in Paris
L’ Aventure is a pop-up store designed in collaboration with canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé and his team. ‘The Louis Vuitton’s experience doesn’t stop as soon as you walk out the store with your luggage, they’re in it for life with you.’ This unpredented space highlights Louis Vuitton’s expert authority on travel, since Louis Vuitton’s monogram shows up daily on every airport worldwide. The store will offer not only objects, but also a number of unique services, such as offering a wide range of options for customising luggage.
L’ Aventure opens on 12 September 2013 on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Onitsuka Tiger New X-Caliber Sneaker
Frontrunner of ‘80s sportswear, the iconic Onitsuka Tiger X-Caliber sneaker has been revived for 2013, and is fighting-fit to take on its increasingly urban 21st century surroundings. Heralded from birth for its intelligent practicality, function remains true to form – every inch the performance-boosting and injury-preventative staple that has proved faithful to athletes since 1982. Design, too, takes a step down the retro route; in its original swatches of blue, silver and off-white with red and royal accents, its distinctive vertical heel vents an aid to movement and cushioning for the foot, as its ‘quadra’ lacing inimitably zig-zags the tongue. The redesign of the new X-Caliber does not go without sharpening its cutting-edge: breathable mesh material softens the ‘80s blow, while a thick Memory EVA mid-sole considerately supports the foot of the modern day wearer. A sneaker whose founding vantage point was set leaps and bounds ahead of its time, the X-Caliber seems to slot seamlessly into the present, exploiting an edited silhouette and established heritage to compete with and overtake its more measured contemporaries.
Camper Together with Bernhard Willhelm
Ever laced up in erratic beauty, Bernhard Willhelm's lucid aesthetic rarely fails to be brand itself as provocative – maniacally eclectic at the very least. His next collection for Camper's Fall/Winter line delves into the exotic, generating innovative and sporty styles to stand anarchically alongside the coveted Himalayan sneaker of collaborations past, reinterpreted ready for its latest incarnation.
Potent monochrome pigments are the product of the Himalayan's most recent evolution; in black, white and Royal blue, they are flexibly unisex, quiet with their peachskin contrasts, yet without falling short of statement detail. Corrugated platforms inject a less obvious slant on streetwear, while cartoony hose laces bundle on the tongue, grey and white threads twined to pull together its most distinguishing attributes.
Fresh offerings, like the Everest, too deliver an unconventional classic, aligning an original monotone upper with an inflate outsole for a brazen pop statement. An exclusive womenswear piece plays on the typical cowboy boot skeleton, boldly divided in two-tone suede and slouching aloof for a cooler, more comfortable update of a renowned silhouette. They say Bernhard Willhelm sees the beauty in chaos – his collection for Camper delivers just that.
Levi's 501 Celebrates 140th Anniversary With Book Launch
A 20th century icon, it's hard to believe the immortal Levi 501 jean walked into its 140th year with the turn of the calendar. Ripened and reshaped since 1873, its silhouette has evolved and abstracted definition by the hands of its forebearers, unfurling into an icon itself throughout the course of its unfleeting lifetime.
To document its status as an artifact of modern times, Levi's have complied a catalogue of photographs for the book Levi's 501 Interpretation, the denim the esteemed subject of 501 personal styles. Its compelling personalization makes for compulsive page turning, the unique charmisma of each sitter providing constant refreshment and charm. Limited to a droll 501 special editions, the book was launched last Wednesday with a viewing at Berlin's 032c workshop, to a warm reception which counted Clemens Schick, Coco Krebitz and Hien Le as its guests.
Levi's 501 Interpretation will be available online and in selected stores worldwide from August.
COS to Launch Capsule Sterling Silver Jewellery Collection
With the visionary beauty of their last capsule collection still on everybody's minds, masters of minimalism COS are to launch a sterling silver jewellery collection, hitting the shelves this October. The limited edition line is to comprise of five key pieces; a ring, bangle, necklace, a stud and a hanging earring, each purified to a simple geometric shape for a clean-cut look that is typically COS.
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
More than multifaceted, Lanvin's Fall/Winter campaign teetered on the schizophrenic: twelve frames and twelve inongruous characters. Starring Edie Campbell, Abiah Hostvedt and Miles Langford, the studio portraits and short film depict a story styled to conntradict and confuse.
With Steven Meisel behind the lens, composision is reliably exacting, with painterly lighting further sculpting the air of a masterpiece. Powerfully statuesque, there is something of the Norman Parkinson belle in Campbell's pose. A bafflingly eclectic wardrobe spans kitsch and couture, whether its a butterfly/cow skin hybrid dress and turban or flared '50s shifts, its the indiscriminate hotchpotch of styles that brings the looks together as a whole. Brooches and bags studded with the words 'love', 'help' and 'cool' disorientate with their mixed messages and garish luxury.
Menswear, meanwhile, finds ground between sartorial and sportswear, pairing a rucksack and sneakers with an artfully mismatched suit. Animals under arm, Lanvin hits on a look that is fashionably derranged.
Stone Island Flagship Store Openings
Munich's Maximillian Strasse is soon to make room for a new resident at number 27, as Stone Island are set to open their second German Flagship store in the legendary shopping district this September.
The 100m² store follows the launch of its Sylt store in March 2012, and will stock both the Stone Island and Stone Island Junior collections, as well as the capsule Stone Island Shadow Project.
July 6th also saw the unveiling of another Stone Island Flagship store, this time in Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany. Images from the Stone Island Archivio '982'-'012' 30th anniversary book were projected onto the backdrop of a 10 meter-high floating installation, constructed in honor of the event.
In keeping with their other recent openings, oiled oak and stone lay a natural finish to the interiors, contrasted by the contemporary accent of luminous fibreglass and aluminium fixtures, holding collections in sunken cages made to a bespoke specification.
PERRET SCHAAD Spring/Summer 2014
Off the beaten Fashion Week track, duo PERRET SCHAAD called to the Neue Nationalgalerie, one of the later works of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The upper floor and exhibition space, a 2500 m² glass hall, inspired the concept for the spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD show. While the everyday museum operations commenced, guests cued up around the building and viewed the show through the glass windows. The duo makes use of both noble and tactile materials. What really makes their designs are the precise cuts and the inventive draping which result in sharp and sensual silhouettes. Lines and patterns evoke structure and fluidity, while forms and volume draw the classic and the new. Juxtaposing feminist and romantic, disciplined and free notes express the label's aesthetic. For spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD relied on fine silks, fresh linens, and soft cottons, all natural and rich materials. Their color palette ranges from light to gunmetal gray, from sky blue to deep ink, interlaced with pops such as fuchsia. Through the process of draping and pattern cutting they create fluid and sculptural forms that interact with each other in contrast and harmony. The collection reflects the flexibility and multitude of the urban environment while being committed to an accentuated simplicity.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Issever Bahri Spring/Summer 2014
During MBFWB, Issever Bahri showcased a collection filled with contrasts. Inspiration came in the form of Turkploitation of the 70s, the low budget copying of Hollywood productions. What often resulted in one-of-a-kind pieces, funny and sometimes absurd, served as the foundation of Issever Bahri's spring/summer 2014 collection. Crocheted leather bands formed nets, which Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri molded into pants, skirts, tops and dresses, married with shiny and sheer fabric. Ornaments are a tribute to the designer's Turkish heritage and emblazoned symmetrically cut sweaters, dresses and jackets. They come in either a white-red combo or different shades of green. In using belts, the duo pulls in the waist, adding femininity to their designs. For all its sophistication, the collection, much like its inspiration is loud and out there - a fun addition for spring/summer 2014.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Michalsky Spring/Summer 2014
Michalsky's show, the StyleNite at the end of MBFWB, basks in the flashy entertainment of fashion. The venue is just a little larger, the runway a little wider and the guest list a little more notorious. Ahead of his show and in between his mens and womenswear collection, the show's vibe is held at party-level with musical acts such as NONONO and MS MR. Both super fun and energetic, amping the audience for what is to come. When it comes to the collections themselves, Michalsky has internalized one thing: never change a running system. The mere number of looks for each collection, both titled 'Sweet Freedom', is astounding and every single one is decidedly Michalsky-esque. Nothing too out there, but a showcasing of some great pieces interlaced with the major trends for spring/summer 2014, which had become evident throughout the week. With the Michalsky man it is never quite clear if he's a flamboyant cool kid, dressed in slim, sharp reddish orange or blue suits and understated khaki pieces teamed with small-scale geometrical prints or a slightly smug pretty boy, in silver metallic parkas and matching shoe – belt combos. The menswear collection certainly holds a piece for every level of bravado. For his womenswear presentation the designer put forward solid, wearable looks. His color palette here differed and he relied on shades from light goldenrod and tangerine to business-like gray and white, elegant black and a pretty cloud print. While Michalsky stuck to easily interchangeable and levelheaded designs, the overall feel was decidedly younger from his previous showcases with long summer coats over shorts or mini skirts and flowing chiffon skirts tossed together with simple shirts and biker jackets. He also tried his hand in more daring dinner jackets – short and slim with low necklines and contrasting lapels. Many of the pieces exuded that special summer feeling, fresh and cavalier.
lala Berlin Spring/Summer 2014
The spacious Opernwerkstätten provided the backdrop for the fun, colorful and sexy spring/summer 2014 show of Lala Berlin. Easy breezy pieces came down the runway, from amazing prints to heavy knits and leather and flowing silk. Tropical palm prints, light and airy dresses, tiny shorts and sun hats. Minimalist leather shirts, ingenious knit bomber jackets and patterned mini skirts are perfect transitional pieces for all aspects of summer time: from the asphalt jungle of the big city to the sandy beaches of far away islands. The collection's color palette spans from pure white to soft peach, turquoise and black. Long dresses and one-pieces contrast pants and culottes.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Viktor & Rolf Fall Couture 2013
Having distanced themselves from the couture catwalks since their last show in the year 2000, Viktor & Rolf have broken a thirteen-year hiatus with a show that more than makes up for the silence.
Twenty outfits in total – each one an all-black experimentation of shadow and silhouette. It seems a single-color palette really is the key to ensnaring a second look, the eclipsing sobriety oppressing the eye to search for its finer details. You don't have to search long though, when faced with Viktor & Rolf's artful forms.
Collars kept things classic when hemlines ducked from conformity, taking allusive shapes and bounding volumes. Surface stitching served to set curves into neoprene-satin bodies, somehow avoiding the inescapable 'scuba' allegations that come with the use of such a material. Even with sandals, the look was made for neither beach nor water – rather with gently robing cloaks and a subtle nod to the mandarin collar, pieces took heed from the quiet elegance of traditional Japanese dress. Grassy fringing climbed arm to neck, sprouting here and there as an organic accent. Such tranquil embellishment made for a meditative show – a thought not lost on Viktor, who reflected, “Our current state of mind is mindfulness” – a pensive adage for a pensive return.
SOPOPULAR Spring/Summer 2014
On day one of MBFWB, menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased its latest – by now ninth - collection, titled ‘Black Hole Sun’. 90s music and Japanese architect Tadao served as inspiration for designer Daniel Blechman’s twelve spring/summer 2014 looks. Soundgarden’s 1994 song ‘Black Hole Sun’ - a milestone for grunge - is not just a big inspiration for the designer, but also lends its name to the collection. SOPOPULAR’s silhouette remains classic, with slim cuts and clear lines. Pieces range from slim pants to relaxed shorts, color blocked knits and designs in the ombré look. The color scheme relies on the consistent use of black, white and grey, playing into the distinctive SOPOPULAR aesthetic. One of the highlights is certainly the 3D black-and-white cube print, which can be seen on shirts, shorts and bomber jackets. For spring/summer 2014, Blechman mixes materials such as smooth leather, suede, cotton and viscose. Once again, SOPOPULAR has managed to put forward modern classics, which will outlast seasonal trends.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Achtland Spring/Summer 2014
Designer duo Achtland are newcomers to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. For their first show, they delivered an extravaganza of feminine creations, a contemporary mix of 50s details, layering and color. The spectrum for spring/summer 2014 ranged from white to dove and light blue tones, from sunny yellow to deep midnight blue. Floral detailing added extra sass to the collection and contrasted cool clean and purist lines. With this extraordinary collection, Achtland has made a summery statement, adding excitement for what the duo’s upcoming collections will hold in store.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
22/4_hommes_femmes Spring/Summer 2014
The label by designer Stephanie Hahn, 22/4_Hommes_Femmes, entered the official menswear calendar in Paris this year with a collaction that mixes classicism and sportswear. The past collections have always been excercises in lightness, balance and subtleness and Hahn pushes that attitude with her most recent outing, resulting in a refined and sophisticated wardobe full of options. A big inspiration for the designer was the artist Robert Ryman with this white-on-white paintings which made for fresh clothing and layered lines. Rather than being cool, the collection gave warmth with wrap-closings and fluid silhouettes. Hahn also took traditional menswear details and gave them new twists like a necktie sewn into a collarless button-down and “collar stays” in mother of pearl.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
It was the second time Hedi Slimane presented a runway collection for men at Saint Laurent and, like we'd come to expect from him, it was a polarizing one. This season, he looked at the fifties and Teddy Boys, hence the ducktail hair, baseball jackets and rockabilly buckled boots. The last look, a model wearing a black tux and fire-red hair, was a clear reference to the designer's icon, David Bowie, who started it all for him. Slimane, both the designer and the photographer, is obsessed with youth culture and music and it was the rock and roll atmosphere that oozed from this collection with band members walking the runway in a dome-like setting. It may not be the Saint Laurent we think we know but it is a fact that Yves himself was also interested in youth-culture and in that way, Hedi is pushing the house forward while staying in line with it's traditions. At the end of the day, he is starting one of the most interesting discussions in fashion at the moment.
Cerruti 1881 Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Spring/Summer 2014 collection by Cerruti 1881 was presented in a modern tent in the courtyard of a very old Parisian townhouse. This was quite a good metaphor for the collection, which combined traditional tailoring with modern ideas. All garments were quintessentially classic; suits, shirts, overcoats and trenchcoats but most of them had a twist to them. The opening coats for instance were so light and fluid that with their length they almost looked ethnic, like a Moroccan djebella. Also new was the internal band attached at the chest in some jackets that was pulled over the other panel of the jacket to give it a completely new sillhouette.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kim Jones showed his collection for Louis Vuitton in a huge greenhouse with the models entering the stage from a wooden construction, reminiscent of an American barn. That part of the world was exactly what Jones had in mind while designing the collection. From the varsity-details to the tie-dye and bandana-prints, it was all about the freedom of the US. The designer, a fond traveler, even took the dorky prom suits but made them significantly less dorky and more chic.
Gucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Restrained design is something of a stranger to Gucci. How come, then, Frida Giannini pulled it off with such style? Outsized T-shirts conquered shirts in the quest to vanquish the generic suit. That said, traditional shape played a part in the battle. Assuming a chinoiserie camouflage, it was ‘dressed to kill’ – all spotted sheaths of white and bright satin.
Leather, too, possessed a pleasing fluidity, in tanned swathes like honeyed skin. White danced with beige to a controlled routine – plain pea coats and anoraks leaving little room for expression, though curiosity lies elsewhere: knitwear found its way as its less than prim self. All open-weave and slouched cut, it was a refreshing tincture compared with the accustomed aesthetic. Such a bounding leap from the dark begs further questions as to where the brand is headed. One thing’s for sure: the path looks promising.
Missoni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Missoni held its own this season with its tawny marl knits. Skinny-cut suits in all varieties of biscuit beige swept down the runway, primary red standing as the most alarming punctuation to a taupe camouflage. Stripes recurred, as did zigzag – this time unassuming in hushed tones. Shawl-collared knits lent a touch of femininity, but brutish beards took it all away.
Like luggage stickers plastered across a battered leather valise, patchwork prints edged with trimmings left the hallmark of the nomad. Drawstring pouches, too, dangled from necks like that of a wandering shaman – Missoni’s designs the handsome remedy.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2014
As a label for whom tri-stripes and padding make up the fabric of the brand, it's a wonder Moncler Gamme Bleu hadn't met cricket whites before. With untainted purity, bulksome shapes gleam, punctured only by the invasive underscore of tri-colored edging.
Long socks meet shorts somewhere in the middle, knees bared like the inverse of padding. Protectivewear, as it happens, can be remarkably stylish. Shielding limbs with voguish concern, quilting and mesh gave depth, as well as dynamism. Vests skirt in aproned defence – paired with padded blazers, the effect is assuredly masculine. Edges rounded by patent binding steer the look from severity, jumping the fine line that divides clinical and futuristic. Nylon webbing, while sporty, can't help but seem space-age, making white lace-up ankle saddles appear all the more like moonboots. Who knew safety gear could be so directional?
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Diesel Black Gold show was decidedly black/white. One-color-clad, pieces piled-high the monochrome feel, evocative of a film negative. The theme threaded through right to the finest detail, with slicked-back hair in polarised shades, from Billy Idol blonde to the deepest of jets. And with that, the look was set: leather bombers marked the stamp of the rebel, brushing shoulders with its converse – the tailored slack pant.
So as not to look too cared-for, distressed denim played an integral part to the piece, artfully flecked with painted palms. Texture, meanwhile, was deep and rich, filling out a hollow palette with a meatier frame. Lighter weight fabrics arrived in all forms; parachute silks, grained viscose and organzas in feminine florals – all knocked down by the mighty punch of matte black leather. For only the fourth runway show by the label, its speech was considerably fluent, so it looks as though excitement will run high for its fifth.
Dsquared² Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Beneath a canopy of tropical ferns lurks the untamed Spring/Summer collection of Dsquared² Khakis to the ready, buttoned down shirts call for knee-knocking safari shots in the earthiest of forest greens – pith helmet optional.
Utilitywear caters to your inner explorer, never wanting to be short of a breast pocket or two. Cotton drill lays the canvas for bush jackets and combats to take shape. The mood soon evolves, notably lightened by silken spots in sherbert hues.
White sweeps through like a clean gust of breeze, taking a load off heavy-weighted leather, which almost looks thirsty from the sun.
Prints guest – briefly yet brightly – parading pieces like a blaring mural. African artwork ornaments graphically, overpowering the quiet rustle of fine leaf motifs. Pattern is bought to a close by golden thatched jacquard, weaving rafia geometrics into splendidly tailored suits. King of the Jungle, indubitably.
Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2014
They say absence makes the heart grow fonder. If anything could illustrate the truth of such a statement, it would be the unanimous fervor surrounding Stefano Pilati's return to the runway this menswear season. The move from YSL to Zegna could be considered something of a quantum leap, and a contrast that was not wasted on Pilati, who appeared to take advantage of the unshackled color palette.
Gone was the severity of yore, ushered out by taupes and hunter greens. Black did make a cordial appearance, though its presence was fleeting and manner unforthcoming, submitting control to the gentler details. Layers filled depths that were hollowed by minimalism, as featherweight knits grazed shirts and suit jackets in the same touch, while ditsy geometrics filled in the blanks. Proportions teased, whether it was overcoats to cocoon or abruptly tailored cut-offs. Cuffs, too, were rolled with imaginative flair, as wrists were wrapped like swadling to the three-quater point. In fluid crepe fabrics, robed trench coats in squared-off lines gave the wonderful impression of a ribbon-wrapped gift – as good a metaphor as any for Pilati's benevolent first offer for Ermenegildo Zegna.
Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The catwalk shows of Dolce&Gabbana replay digital print like a looping blockbuster marathon. This screening, however, seemed somewhat more cinematic than most. Maybe it was the colour – etched out in the sepia tones, classical columned temples resonated in the eyes of the early Hollywood film fan, which played out before such scenes.
For the most part, tones remained subdued, allowing the intricacy to speak for itself. Bomber jackets made the graphic guise look easy. As for the 3 piece suit: although impossibly difficult to wear, it was a thing of beauty, nonetheless. Patterns complimented – the quiet stripe of slim-fit pants replicating the pillared architecture of ancient Italy. Blossomed silks provided a brief séjour from an otherwise crusading collection, while raw cloth rags buffed the fine edges to relic.
As for shape, there was nothing historical about the square shell-tee – unless of course, atop a muscular form, from which it assumed gladiatorial proportions. Then again, Dolce&Gabbana’s contemporary classicism has amassed quite an arena, all eyes on their heroic prints.
Paul Smith Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
“Wearable with a point of view” was how Paul Smith described his latest designs. In the novel location of Savile Row’s Hauser & Wirth Gallery, Smith revealed his collection in a most unconventional way.
In the middle of the room lay the installation work of fine artist Subodh Gupta - a salvage yard of a shipwreck, overflowing with odds and ends – fitting for Smith’s design ethos, which extracted the influence of abstract ideas, crafting “simple shapes using fabric that was based on a windowpane or a pinstripe”.
Fabric is Smith’s magician’s wand, as his Spring/Summer collection would attest. The product of a partnership with the Clissold Mill, Yorkshire, traditional weaves were re-imagined when herringbone assumed the form of the Union Jack. Canvassing giant screens which served as a backdrop for the final products, Smith’s masterful coordination of contemporary and classic styles stood as a testament to his station at the pinnacle of British menswear.
Hackett London Spring/Summer 2014
In one jaunty step it was off to the boat race, where Hackett London's riviera wardrobe will go down just swimmingly.
A taste for brazen pattern that conflicts in the most civilized of manners is the veritable mark of an eccentric Englishman, in shades both complementary and harmonizing alike. Baby hues pop to pronounce layered seperates; peach, lemon, and spearmint shades arm the delectable palette of the collection, making way for a compass of blues, ranging from duck-egg to navy, to accent pieces with prestige.
Oxford slacks are the go-to staple, whether in blushing tints or intrepid checks, worn long or rolled up to the ankle for a more contemporary twist. Accessories are similarly sartorial – as bow-ties and cravats see that the all-important trimmings of the Hackett man are never in short supply. Heritage brogues and tassel loafers cast the footstep of a shrewd dresser, while adroitly-matched pocket squares and shoulder-cloaking cardigans speak of a true English gentleman.
Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
From beneath the redundant railway arches of Kings Cross came a vision in white. All lace and pallid skin bought something of the modern day beau to London yesterday. At once sharply-suited and undone, stiffly starched collars poked their wings from wrinkled silk, as knuckle-grazing cuffs second-guessed the astute dressing of the dandy. Mary Janes, meanwhile, trod the industrial cobblestones with a distrinctly feminine authority, blurring the boundaries which fashion gender with Regency resonance.
Distressed knits layered shell-structured tees, webbing ivories into a monochrome scheme. Silhouette remained true to tradition, with only subtle shake-ups to conventional tailoring; casual pieces flirted with heritage, while sleeves were sheered to bare arms in a twist to challenge formality.
Embelishment, on the other hand, was an altogether modest affair, overruled by the mixing of minimalist pieces in a playful repertoire of lengths. Nonetheless, when print was on the cards, it truly made its presence known. Jacquard flocks and candy stripes were unabashedly busy, evoking layer upon layer of peeling wallpaper – only to be understated by Sarah Burton's stripped-down interpretations of the plain black suit.
Converse x Ace Hotel Pro Leather
Born of their third collaboration with the Ace design hotel, Converse are to release the limited edition Pro Leather sneaker.
In premium white leather, the letter A is perforated to create a subtle motif. Texture and colour speak the same language, with muted sophistication the main undertone. Soft clay tones provide its only embellishment to chisel the distinguishing features of the Converse sneaker: soft suede contrasts, a round toe cap and iconic chevron star. Customers can chose between classic white cotton or leather laces – the perfect accent to their chalky touch.
Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Superb tailoring is nothing new for Giorgio Armani. Perhaps more interesting, was his execution of crisp cut-out shape. Navy, as expected, laid the groundwork for the line, but bursting through with vivacious zeal, were hot pinks and scuba blues. Suits hushed in blushing hues – the grainy linen they coveted was equally subdued.
Surface detail roused when pieces looked their most pristine, in ambient geometrics that were surprisingly contemporary. Petrol prints puddled short sleeved tees, while diamonds flocked with a neon glow under slouchy blazers, like drunk argyle. Even in their sober state, golfing knits looked somewhat under the influence; pastel hues turned kaleidoscopic and zig zag dissipated to plain stripe. Collarless shirts, too, took their button lines on the bias, wringing all meaning from reference with one modern twist.
While such innovation is not requisite for an established aesthetic like that of Armani, his ceaseless ability to refresh tradition does not go unnoticed.
Diesel Reboot Campaign
When Nicola Formichetti was made artistic director at Diesel back in April, we all knew that spelled total corporate reinvention. Fresh from his previous post at the creative helm of Mugler, Formichetti wasted no time in making his mark on the brand, with the announcement of his initiative, Diesel Reboot. Though his design influence will not materialise until the release of their Fall/Winter 2014 collection, the new Initiation Campaign indicates the transformation is well underway. Drawn upon ideas that were pitched to the brand by their Tumblr audience, imagery is unexpected, to say the least,. Beside text that reads “I resurrect the destructed”, the boy called BOYCHILD stands with hands together and adorned in clerical vestments made of denim. In what is unquestionably a directonal step for the label, the promotion speaks loudly of Formichetti's plans to restore Diesel to its former glory, pulling the brand back into relevance once again.
Karl Lagerfeld Concept Store Openings
With word of a Karl Lagerfeld store expansion generating a steady buzz accross Europe, for Paris and Berlin, anticipation of the new concept stores in the two cities is reaching a crescendo. Wade through the picturesque streets of Le Marais from June 7th to stumble upon newest edition to the eclectic boutiques of Rue Vielle du Temple. The store is the second of its kind to launch in Paris this year, joining the Boulevard St Germain location, which opened in February this year. July 1st will see Berlin welcome it's first Karl Lagerfeld concept store, found on the Neue Schönhauser Straße, closely followed by another opening in Munich this September.
Developed under the creative direction of Berlin-based architects Plajer & Franz, the new Karl Lagerfeld concept stores are to follow in the same vein as it's other recently-opened destinations. Artful design and ground-breaking technology will serve to accent the brand's luxury collections, with matte-black and high-shine feeding texture into Lagerfeld's characteristic monochrome aesthetic.
In-store iPads open a window to the Lagerfeld world, with shoppers able to immerse themselves in the latest collections, photograph their favourite products and even leave a note for the designer. Innovation extends to the fitting rooms, which double as photobooths, equipped with built-in touch screens to apply Karl-inspired filters before uploading to Facebook and Twitter.The growing European presence of the brand shows little sign of waning, with a second Berlin concept store at Leipziger Platz to be unveiled early next year.
One Night Only Roma by Giorgio Armani
Tonight Giorgio Armani will unveil a new 900 square-meter boutique in the heart of Rome's luxury shopping district, Via Condotti. Spread over three floors, the boutique is one of only two exclusive Giorgio Armani stores to offer a dedicated area where customers can order custom-made haute couture accessories.
To celebrate, the label are staging a grand opening, One Night Only Roma, at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome, where catwalk shows will present new versions of the Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani fall/winter collections. The venue will also premier the Eccentrico exhibition – open to the public from June 6th - 9th – and will showcase an exquisite retrospective of Giorgio Armani designs dating back from 1985.
Full coverage of the event will be streamed online on their dedicated website from 9pm on June 5th. In the days leading up to the event, a new interactive website has paid tribute to both the brand and the city of Rome with a live countdown, previews of the opening and exclusive video interviews with Giorgio Armani himself.
Marni Uomo book
When Marni stopped showing it's menswear collection on the runway, they started using multimedia resources to showcase their latest outings. Last season they made a short film and this time a book is released. This will not be a regular lookbook but an artproject with art director Dean Langley and photographer Clare Shilland.
Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni was inspired by the work of Dean Langley and wanted his outsider view for this presentation. She was interested in collaborating with someone who isn't involved with the design of the collection and brings a new perspective to the clothing. This resulted in a non linear portfolio of images with graphic elements and beautiful stills. Recurring theme is the color shocking fluo pink, which is also featured on the limited edition T-shirt in honour of the project.
Vivienne Westwood to redesign Virgin Atlantic's iconic Red Uniform
After over a decade Virgin Atlantic will redesign its original uniform – and who better to approach than leading British designer, Vivienne Westwood. The collaboration is a 10 year, long-term project which will see a total re-design of the uniform across all areas.
With original design, sustainability and reducing the environmental impact of business being vital factors to both Richard Branson and Vivienne Westwood, this long term design project aims to bring these ideals together in an exciting and innovative collaboration.
For the new uniforms Vivienne Westwood wanted to create a futuristic look which nevertheless referenced her enduring interest in 40’s French couture cutting techniques as well as the Savile Row tailoring heritage.
Alongside the women’s and men’s cabin crew and pilot’s uniforms, which will be unveiled later this year, all Virgin Atlantic uniforms from Clubhouse staff to the Virgin Holidays team will be re-designed by the iconic designer. Passengers will receive a sneak peak of the new uniforms on board from June 2013 ahead of the full launch in 2014
Karl Lagerfeld Store Opening Amsterdam
On the 25th of April, forward-thinking fashion brand Karl Lagerfeld opens its new Amsterdam concept store to the public. Selected press including ZOO Magazine and Dutch celebrities already got to take a sneak peek at the store's concept before everybody else.
On 150 square meters and two floors the luxury fashion is combined with the newest digital technology. The womenswear can be found on the ground floor along with matching accessories, footwear and eyewear, while the current men's collection and accessoires are available on the lower ground floor. On iPads the customers can make use of a digital guestbook, where they can view the latest collections, Karl Lagerfeld news and also take pictures of their favourite items. Fitting rooms function as photobooths, enabling customers not only to try on clothes, but also instantly share pictures of new outfits on social media platforms such as Facebook or Twitter.
Essential to the store's design is the contrast between elements – shiny and matte, black and white, old and new. The achitecture of the old 18th century house built near the canals is perfectly incorporated into the modern design of the store. Located at Hartenstraat 16 and right in the heart of Amsterdam, the store is surrounded with buzzing cafés, quirky vintage stores and high-end boutiques of the 9 Straatjes. More Karl Lagerfeld store openings are about to follow in other major European cities and the expansion into Asian markets is another goal of the brand to be achieved by the end of 2013.
From Nature to Armani/Casa
Not only famous for its high-end fashion, accessories and fragrances, the luxury fashion house Giorgio Armani also has its own home collection. The newest collection by Armani/Casa draws its inspiration from the eternal beauty and infinite power of nature. From Nature To Armani/Casa portrays how nature stays a sensitive force and source of inspiration in the business of everyday urban life.
Pure lines and simple shapes define the furniture design and eco-friendly materials are used for their production. Elegant tables with surfaces of striped banana tree wood or frames out of shiny walnut tree wood are a great addition to any living room, while the highlight might be a large wardrobe in the design of a vintage trunk. Fabrics used for Armani/Casa are exclusive wool as well as silk fabrics in earthy colours and a bright orange by Rubelli. Items like Nepalese carpets that tell the tales of distant worlds complete the collection.
Laserblast Club Collection by Replay
For Fall/Winter 2013-14 Replay created the Laserblast Club capsule collection. The denim collection has a young feel to it and its goal is to take casual denim to the clubs. Picking up on vibes and atmospheres of a night out, the collection features anything from sexy dresses to smart blazers. For both women and men this capsule collection has the essential garments for having drink at a chic bar or dancing the night away in the most hip clubs.
Plus the laserblast technology is not only cutting-edge, but also very environment friendly. In times, where people all around the world are encouraged to go green, Replay conrtibutes by reducing their water usage by 85% in their laserblast denim production.
Levi's® Vintage Clothing Exhibition Opening in Berlin
The 14 oz. in Berlin has recently had a special treat for its visitors. Beside the clothes ranges of menswear and womenswear the shoppers are now welcomed by a special exhibition supporting the Levi's® Vintage Clothing Spring/Summer 2013 collection.
The exhibition pays tribute to the early days of the Hot Rod and honours its legends such as Norm Grabowski. Especially after the second world war, the Americans broke out the tradition to tinker with their cars and to make them faster. But not only cars were 'hot-rodded' – suddenly anything from embellished clothes to custom-made guitars appeared.
35 “Kustom Monster Shirts” by Von Franco, a film by Aaron Rose as well as a unique Fender Custom Shop 1957 Stratocaster are part of the exhibition. It's like being taken back to that moment in time, when the trend emerged to make everything better and faster. The exhibition bringing the past to the present is located in the 14 oz. Haus Cumberland at the Kurfürstendamm 193-194 in Berlin.
Woolrich Hiking Blazer by Tokito
The current collections by Woolrich are inspired by the pioneering citizen journalists, who mingled in war journalism in the late 60s. They invented a completely new way of dressing by mixing professional wear with military elements.
One of the highlights derriving from this inspirational theme is the Travel collection – a mini collection taking ideas from the concept of a reporter’s life, always on the move and traveling around. It includes a versatile and easy-to-wear range of garments, combining functionality and comfort. There are coats with inside and outside pockets, pants with waterproof zips and the ergonomic 3-layer Hiking Blazer with pockets and a hood, which was designed by Tokito. These garments will proof useful even on rainy summer days and bring back fashion as well as function at the same time.
John Malkovich for Yoox
John Malkovich’s brand Technobohemian just released an exclusive men’s beachwear capsule collection for the online fashion store yoox.com. From March 2013 – and just in time to prepare for summertime – these versatile garments will join the online shop’s range and will be ready for men to order from over 100 countries all around the world.
The collection features essential pieces needed for summer. Light summer jackets, bermuda shorts, polo-shirts and swimwear make the collection what it is. Timeless and ideal to combine with seasonal pieces this year but also the ones to come, these garments will be a great addition to every men’s wardrobe. From sartorial to casual – it was Malkovich’s goal to create garments, which can be worn to every occasion.
The clothes are Made in Italy. This means a guarantee of highest quality and the use of finest fabrics. Light linen, leather, seersucker and cotton are the most used fabrics of the capsule collection. The comfortable and bright to neutral coloured collection is already available on yoox.com.
G-Shock X Maison Martin Margiela
Everything is still very secretive around a certain collaboration between the luxury fashion house Maison Martin Margiela and the G-Shock watch. One thing is certain though: To celebrate the 30th birthday of the G-Shock, a new model of the GA-300 will hit the stores in the end of March 2013.
The GA-300MMM will feature a detachable leather band and it has been hinted that the 0-23 numbers of the fashion designer will feature as a pattern. The watch will be a limited edition with a number of 3,000 and only 300 stores all around the world will stock it. The exciting collaboration promises to be a successful one, but for now all one can do is wait and long for more details about the design of the covetable watch.
Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14
Stone grey is the essential colour of the Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, which just showed at the Mode Suisse Edition 3 in Zürich. The bi-annual Swiss fashion event is all about presenting established and young Swiss fashion brands in a simple and elegant way.
The runway show of Marc Stone was dominated by minimalist designs and clear shapes. Classic dress shirts in dark green, checkered wool jumpers, long open cardigans and simple, yet elegant blazers were some of the designs. Quilted cotton piqué for cowl neck jumpers and soft pants explores new shapes and use of material. Fine tailoring and high quality fabrics define the garments.
Large grey and black weekend bags as well as backpacks of luxurious leather are the accessories for winter time and will protect anything inside from snow and rain. Classic, yet modern the collection shows versatility and is worthy of being part of any man’s wardrobe.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013-14
It was the second season designed by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. His Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection spread a youthful vibe and grunge feel inside the Grand Palais and continued where the runway show of his menswear collection had left off. In a way it was a surprise how he went through with his idea of bringing back 90s grunge yet again, but the designs themselves looked familiar and were all the less shocking.
It was like going back and searching through a punk teen’s closet. The collection displayed what the find of that search could look like – oversized vintage cardigans, plaid men’s shirts, sequined sweater dresses, duffle coats, cut off jeans skirts, floaty flowery dresses, biker leather jackets, black lace slip dresses, furry coats with leopard patterns and rebellious leather bustiers bearing it all.
The list could go on and on. The collection’s variety of garments was remarkable, but nothing looked quite new. The garments were all worn with fishnet tights and bulky leather boots. The show almost left the audience in puzzled disbelief, when the light darkened after the last dress on the runway had been an unusual girly peter pan collar dress with a flowery pattern. However, the show still got a strong finish with a mass of models in tight leather dresses walking down the runway like a mob of punk rock chicks.
Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection pairs classic fits with playful details and from girly dresses with pockets to elegant gowns to wear on a night out, it has it all. While the collection started off with white garments making the models look like youthful ice princesses, the final dresses out of flowy fabrics had a more grown up feel to them.
A lot of pleats were seen throughout the whole collection. Whether on sleeveless shirt dresses, on jackets or blouses, it was all in the details. Among the variety of coats the highlight was without doubt the final piece – a wide furry parka in white, grey and black with a big hood, paired with a dress featuring an graphic black and white print of large tulips. The petals and stalks remind of spring time and bring back the memories of sunshine to the winter days.
Black, snow white and icy grey with a touch of a silverish shine were the neutral colours of the collection, while a warm brown as well as splashes of cornflower blue, bright pink and fiery red added more colour. Quilted leather jackets, furry collars, a button through skirt with fringes ending just above the knee as well as fringy hemlines on jackets and coats were essential to the collection.
Studio Africa by Diesel + Edun
Diesel + Edun just celebrated the launch of their collaboration entitled Studio Africa – a denim collection born in Africa. It is a 25 piece collection of womenswear and menswear, which finds its inspiration in African creativity. The denim collection is manufactured in nothern African countries with the finest CCI cotton from Uganda.
The initial idea for the collection came into being because of Diesel founder Renzo Rosso's and Edun founders Ali Hewson and Bono's passion for the African continent, while they travelled Uganda and Mali. The collection circles around a reinterpretation of the 70s four-pocket jean that was popular on the streets of South Africa. Malian textile patterns, Kenyan metalwork and embroidery reminding of traditional Zulu weaving patterns influenced the designs as well. To bring across the African spirit, the campaign of Studio Africa features nine African artists from the creative fields of fashion, film, music, literature and photography. The online presence of Diesel + Edun is curated by Okayafrica and offers a new platform to capture the continent's current cultural and political atmosphere.
The launch event in Paris included a dinner and party, where Solange performed as the advocate of Studio Africa. Among the many celebrities attending the party were Kanye West, Tilda Swinton, Adrien Brody and Ellen von Unwerth. The series of global live events in cooperation with the online music broadcaster Boiler Room celebrating the collection's launch is going to continue in Berlin. The invite-only event is taking place in Club P.O.P on the 7th of March. Other stops on the launch tour include Tokyo, London and L.A.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
The heavy red curtains at the back of the runway opened and out came a parade of models wearing what looked like a tribute to religion and its architecture. For their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana let themselves be inspired by the monumental mosaics of architecture of ancient Italian churches.
Portraits of religious figures from the mosaics of the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily were featured on the dresses and tops. The look of the holy imagery was completed by using glistening sequins, golden threads and embroided crystals resembling rubies and emeralds. The models looked gorgeous – red lips, pure skin, large glistening earrings and especially their golden crowns made their look untouchable, like they were religious figures themselves.
Key designs of the collection were large, but still very feminine coats and tops with wide sleeves. Apart from the range of opulent golden garments, a number of elegant pieces of grey herringbone fabric joined the collection. Mini skirts and high waisted knickers in black brocade or embellished red fabric were combined with wide shirts and blouses. The main colours of red, white and black reminded of some of the most important liturgical colours, but sheer lace dresses revealing the models' black underwear were not as innocent as rules of the Catholic chuch permit. Despite the current disputes surrounding the Catholic church due to the pope's resignation, Dolce & Gabbana well in using religion as its inspirational source and enriched the fashion world with yet another beautiful collection.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14
During London Fashion Week Vivienne Westwood took over the space of the Saatchi Gallery. There is always a rebellious feel and a punk attitude to Vivienne Westwood's collections and the presentation of her Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection was no exception.
A bright azure blue was chosen as one of the most dominant colour of the season combined with tones of red and black. Zebra patterns, plaids and stripes were reocurring patterns amongst many others. Tailored blazers and dresses with cowl necklines brought out a new femininity and elegance. Knee length skirts and loose trousers were key designs of the collection, while a few mini skirts and colourful shorts still retained a young and sexy spirit. A lot of shimmering fabrics were used for the collection. Highlights of the show were a long geometric cut coat with wide stripes as well as the colourful glittering zebra dress with the black tulle underskirt that seemed like the perfect frock for a punk princess.
The make-up of the models looked otherworldy, perhaps like a crossing between an Asian doll with procelain skin and a female clown. However, it made the models' looks all the more intriguing and beautiful with their full red lips and turquoise to yellow eye shadow. Be it the styling or the designs, Vivienne Westwood never conforms to what other designers do. It was no surprise that her ability not to abide by the rules and to go through with unusual ideas produced yet another unique collection.
Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2013-14
The key to Tommy Hilfiger's new Fall/Winter collection was to apply tailored cuts of menswear designs to a womenswear collection. The result is a range of sharp and sophisticated garments, that are wearable every day of the week. It was Hilfiger's goal to bring the 60s and 70s back, but in a modern way.
Tailored shorts and mini skirts serve as bottoms, while jumpers with V-necks and buttoned up blouses are the tops. The patterns of the collection include all kinds of checks – from Prince of Wales plaids to black-white-red houndstooth fabrics. But instead of keeping it simple, the different patterns are combined in each garment. Black and white checks meet deep red plaids, however in a way that it doesn't confuse the eye. The most used colours are dark red, camel, creme, navy and black.
The collection is all about outerwear and layering. Jackets and coats with leather or shearling trims for snowy days are versatile and easily combined with any other piece to be worn beneath. Chic shoulder bags with golden chains as well as high boots finish off the look.
Lacoste Fall/Winter 2013-14
The whole audience was literally in the dark when it came to revealing the new Lacoste collection at New York Fashion Week. Darkness filled the Lincoln Center Theatre just before the show was about to start and the light only crept back in when the wall at the back of the runway slowly started to fold itself apart piece by piece.
The square design of the impressive scenery reflected the clothes' designs. Square patterns and horizontal stripes adorned the structured garments. Almost all of the tops featured extremely wide sleeves that got tighter around the wrists. One of the key fabrics of the collection is the same as that of sweatshirts – cotton piqué. Only here it is used for tops, trousers and dresses, while quality wool makes for cozy turtlenecks and jumpers. See-through raincoats and neon silver lining give a water-repellent protection for rainy days.
The sweatshirt dresses feature knee-length skirts in the style of slightly loose pencil skirts with slits to bare a little more skin. For men classic wide coats and or deep green parkas in a military look are some of the key pieces. Apart from lots of white and grey with graphic prints, the main colours are a bright orange, a range of deep greens and a luscious blue. The finale were a couple of leather dresses with clever zipper details that proved once again the timely and modern spirit of Lacoste in the year of its 80th birthday.
ASVOFF Saint Petersburg
Flowing skirts and dresses with flower applications flying across the screen, girls running through enchanted gardens and dancing in a round on green meadows. Dita Von Teese performing one of her shows in a pair of Louboutins covered in glistening Swarovski crystals. This and much more is fashion film. It's a broad category of film making that deserves its own festival. “A Shaded View on Fashion Film” is taking the stage in St. Petersburg the 16th and 17th February. Presented by Diane Pernet and the Aurora Fashion week it revolves around moving image making in the fashion industry and offers interesting screening as well as inspiring talks.
Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2013-14
Rebellious black bomber jackets and oversized coats are sported by young looking models with slim physiques and a whiff of coolness lingers in the air around them. Leather sleeves contrast dapper quilted fabrics. Once again Belgian designer Tim Coppens proved how excellent he is at designing versatile outerwear by presenting his Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection at the New York Fashion Week.
But that's not all there is to the collection. Smart white shirts with zipped up pockets and button-down collars or black turtlenecks of fine wool look fine on their own but are just as well combined with any other piece of clothing.
The black and white theme is continued throughout the whole collection with some grey and red accents. Black and white unite in a playful pattern that looks like someone took a spray paint can to white clothes and sprayed them with black paint at will. Tim Coppens creates garments that are true to a boyish spirit, but never stop to look grown-up as well. All in all it is definitely a collection men of all ages will be looking forward to for Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013-14 Preview
While it’s not even summer yet, Alexander McQueen is already realeasing a much sought after preview of their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Once again Sarah Burton has created a gorgeous collection, which will surely be a highlight of next winter’s fashion shows.
No matter if the look is elegant or playful, the cuts of the stunning floor length dresses or short dresses with skater skirts are to rave about. Crochet details, golden embellishments around necklines and delicate frills are only the cherry on top. As outerwear long white coats with furry details around the neck and sleeves as well as black leather coats with laser cut outs keep the wearer warm on snowy days. Apart from black, grey and white, frequently used colours of the collection are luscious reds and blues.
They contrast the pale skin of the model, who looks as fair as Snow White from a fairy tale book. It’s as if the whole collection is telling a story. Puffy white sleeves remind of tops worn during the reign of King Herny and his numerous wives. Others garments however remind of religious and priestly robes. The black leather boots can be seen in either an ankle or overknee version with white pleats peaking out. They remind a lot of musketeer boots with a broad strap and a great golden buckle. But even if some of the garments look otherworldly it never overshadows how beautiful they are.
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2013
2013 is the fourth year the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is being awarded. This year’s winner is British shoe designer Nicholas “Nick” Kirkwood, featured in ZOO Magazine #21 for his unconventional footwear designs. Five different designers were shortlisted, but Nick Kirkwood was chosen by the jury to receive the fund doted 200,000 pounds.
The professional business plan he had drawn up with his business partner Christopher Suarez vowed the judges and of course also Kirkwood’s unique designs and ability to create a modern line of accessories.
The prize includes a mentoring programme developed by the BFC to help Kirkwood to make the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand. Kirkwood is graduate of the renowned Central Saint Martins design school and his first collection was launched in Spring 2005.
Carhartt Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Urban cityscapes and tall industrial buildings in the architectural style from 1960 til 1990 remind of Detroit, but are in fact from the Italian city Bari. Amongst Calabria and Naples it’s one of the three cities where the new ad campaign by Carhartt Work In Progress was shot.
The short film entitled A Golden Light Underneath My Car is by Alexander Basile, who already worked with Carhartt WIP in previous seasons. The new Spring/Summer 2013 collection is placed in the context of young people spending a laid-back afternoon in the otherwise so stressful life of urban cities. Friendship is seen as the only anchor in the fast paced environment we live in.
G-Star RAW Fall/Winter 2013-14
Acoustic guitar sounds and a blue backlight fill the dark room when a ballerina enters with tiny steps on pointe shoes. After performing some steps of the Dying Swan solo, she throws away her belted coat revealing a tight bodysuit and trying to break conventions. One sentence is glaring from the screen behind her: The Art of Raw.
The G-Star Raw Fall/Winter 2013-14 runway show in Berlin integrated various art forms in making it a unique performance. The new icon of G-Star Raw is film star Michael Madsen, ending the show by reading a poem with his raspy voice and roaring into the microphone.
A huge variety of outerwear is presented by the models: quilted coats, hooded capes, belted and double breasted jackets. Denim is used in a lot of varied ways – for example as the lining of a jacket. Camouflage patterns, utility shorts, aviator sunglasses and caps as well as badges covering the boys’ jackets give the collection a military feel.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
Sophisticated as ever Jil Sander presented her new menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2013-14. Minimalist designs make the collection what it is and show the Jil Sander man of next season.
Double breasted smart jackets and coats with lines of three round buttons are key pieces of the collection. Another great detail are the deatchable stand-up collars. They add a touch of formality wherever they are attached, from thick wool chechered coats to sleeveless black fur tops.
While most garments are kept simple in colour and pattern, the only reoccurring pattern is that of stripes – either regular stripes covering navy suits or diagonal ones accross woolen jumpers. Colours range from traditional colours used in Jil Sander’s collections such as black, grey, dark green and blue to a bright red.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
“The Cosmic Tour” is the title of the Diesel Black Gold menswear F/W 2013-14 collection, which showed in Milan earlier this month. It is taking major inspiration from the psychedelic style of guitar legend Jimi Hendrix and anything to do with interplanetary travel. The models remind of rock gods in eccentric dress and look like they are on a music tour – through the whole universe.
Geometric hexagon prints meet organic paisley patterns and give a clear contrast between structure and softness. From chic to casual, the collection has it all: Shiny chic suits for the night, sporty jackets for the day.
Bright reds, blues and greens are the dominant colours. Unique pieces such as big furry coats and waistcoats reflect the individual looks of the models: They range from long blonde hair over tousled full brown beards to tattoo covered necks like real rock stars.
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
This was the second Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior by Raf Simons. The collection started with references to the New Look Dior himself created in the fifties, but only in a more spontaneous and thus more modern way. This was also a chance for Raf SIMONS to show the house's magnificent techniques by the atelier. Even if the pleats on the dresses looked rather whimsical, it was done with so much care and savoir-faire, Fresh colors were used on lucious silks as they draped fluidly over the models' bodies.
Raf SIMONS chose a garden as the scenery of the collection, a strong notion for the house, considering its love for flowers. Flower motifs and petals were used decorating a couple of dresses. Some parts were rather sensual, with figure-hugging shapes and slits on provocative places. The whole collection can be considered as a meeting of the graphic and the feminine, with sharp suits and color-blocking on the one side and airy dresses on the other.
There was more then one reference to the past in this collection. Sometimes it looked a little bit sixties, sometimes it veered into the fifties.
Rick Owens' angels of the street
Rick Owens returned to the street for his fall/winter 2013-2014 collection after some time spent in the couture-area. The balance he found this season was exceptional, starting with the way the hair of the models was styled. Long-haired boys had frizzed hair creating a romantic image as they passed with red or blond clouds flowing around them. The collection started with an A-line silhouette and big sleeves, making it at some point hard to tell they were soldiers or angels, or maybe both. Last season there was no trouser to be found, with the models only wearing floor-length skirts, but this season the skinny trouser made a comeback, tucked into big and chunky boots. Obviously, graphic forms are a staple in Owens' work, this time created by shrugs tightened around the shoulder and reveresed colars, pointing upward. Two oversized tanktops, one in stiff cotton and the other in black fur, made for exciting silhouettes, reminding of the collections back in the nineties that promised nothing but good to come for menswear.
Climbing Mount Everest with Bally
In Milan the menswear fashion week for fall/winter 2013/14 began and Bally outed a collection ready for the coldest of winters. Fur being the material pur sang for keeping warm, this collection had plenty of it. The first look, a leather parka with a fur collar worn with fur hat, mittens and boots, set the tone. The creative duo behind the brand, Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz, took inspiration from the first men who climbed to top of Mount Everest succesfully. One of them, Sherpa Tenzing, was wearing Bally boots at the time. The rugged look of the fur boots and heavy duty outerwear was mixed with heavy knits and sportswear. Colors remained natural with browns, greys, burgundy and touches of yellow.
Levi’s and JUGEND GEGEN AIDS: T-shirts with a good cause
On world’s AIDS day Levi’s decided not to stay in the corner, taking part together with the JUGEND GEGEN AIDS association to a special night that merged fashion, music and sexual education.
In order to make a difference and let young people feel close to the cause, the denim brand organized the “Night of Life” in association with DJs and starred chefs in order to turn a pool party at the Hamburg East Hotel into something unforgettable.
The ‘STOP AIDS’ sign was shown on black and white limited edition Levi’s T-shirts during the party, whose proceeds will go to the benefit association JGA that since years fight to create awareness around AIDS.
“Do what you want. Do it with love, respect and condoms”
Dior Homme presents the Black Carpet collection
Dior Homme launches today its Black Carpet menswear collection: a capsule of evening ready-to-wear pieces designed by the creative mind of Kris Van Assche.
Spring 2017 will see a perfect merge between the designer’s untamed-energetic style and Dior’s traditional codes. The atelier’s meticulous craftsmanship and attention to details will fuse creating rebellious, unexpected pieces from Dior’s signature slim-cut suits.
Prince of Wales or Houndstooth check will be interrupted by paint splashes woven into jacquard, velvet flocking and satin scars to give a complete new taste to fine wool tuxedos and t-shirts.
With innovative and unconventional techniques, Black Carpet, pairs the attitude of the runway with house’s know-how in order to push classical precision in to more extreme interpretations.
Hype moment: Supreme X The North Face
Supreme confirms its status as a hugely popular street wear apparel brand with the drop of Supreme's ever popular collaboration: Supreme x The North Face.
For the past ten years Supreme has been dubbed as 'the most hyped street wear pieces of all time' – and rightly so as the latest collection was sold out online in just under ten seconds.
Everything is about leafy camo, hi-vis orange, technically proficient and high performance pieces that create a balanced mix between style, quality and authenticity. The collection is made of cozy essentials for fall obtained by bold re-workings of TNF iconic garments in the perfect countercultural sprit of Supreme.
Representing the embodiment of the downtown culture, Supreme's rebellious New York skaters have a bomb in their hands that has definitely set off. Chapeau!
Acne Studios now open in NYC
The corner of Madison Avenue and East 74th street, New York city – the Big Apple's iconic block has just been injected with a fresh and futuristic allure.
The novelty comes from Scandinavian brand Acne Studios, known for its well-designed signature pieces, that has just opened its latest flagship in the city that never sleeps.
Here, design meets fashion through the use of gold as Acne's signature tone along with interiors fully decorated with gilded metal walls and aluminum fittings. Colors and lights in fresh combinations make for a stand-out yet recognizable look. Black asphalt floors dotted with glittered stones meet crafted bronze desks under a full lighting ceiling that brighten up the entire space.
Acne Studios founder Jonny Johansson was attracted by the city's multicultural identity which he believes to be the future but was eager to retain the city's essence in the store's design. “I think you always have to consider what space you’re in, where you are, what your opinion is about that. It’s more work, and it’s probably more expensive in the end too, but it’s also more fun.”
Aitor Throup appointed Executive Creative Director for G-Star Raw
Following three successful years as creative consultant to the brand, G-Star Raw announces Aitor Throup as its Executive Creative Director. Since 2013 the Argentinian-born British designer has worked closely with the brand developing new approaches to 3D denim design and was also involved in the development and concept of the denim superstar's flagship store in London's Oxford Street. Throup directed the recent 'What is RAW?' global advertising campaign and launched RAW Research, his first collection for G-Star during Paris Men's Fashion Week. The transition from consultant to Creative Director was an organic one for both the brand and artist who shares G-Star Raw's design ethos that holds innovation as one of its core values.
CHANEL Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
For Chanel Spring Summer 2017 Karl Lagerfeld delivered a youthful collection. The models sported a baseball hat with side ponytails and candy glowing make up. A bad-ass attitude versus romantic echoes. Girlish yet elaborate with its high-tech masterful fabrics.
The show at Grand Palais was set again in a grandiose installation, this time emulating a data centre – one of those places where you would imagine Mr.Robot emerging.
Along the exposed wires on server racks, floating dresses with a kaleidoscope of colours, mini skirts, white plissé silk garments with ruffles, all adorned with crystal jewellery and pixelated handbags. Although we feel continuously overwhelmed by the everyday technology and data flow, Karl Lagerfeld’s cyberspace is a bright utopia. Robot headpieces included.
Woolrich opens flagship store in Antwerp
Woolrich has opened its first Belgian store in Antwerp, the centre of design and fashion. This marks the beginning of the expansion of Woolrich across Europe, with 75 new stores opening over the next three years. The Woolrich store in Antwerp is located on the Schuttershofstraat, a new home for luxury brands. Its interior blends contemporary furnishing with classical Belgian traits, lending inspiration from creative director Masamichi Katayama, but sticking to Belgian heritage. The Creative Director Andrea Canè says: ”Woolrich has grown exponentially in Belgium in the few last years. The opening of a flagship store in this particular moment in time makes communication with our customer not only simpler but also direct and allows us to bring the world of Woolrich to Belgium.”
Christian Dior Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
With this last fashion week ruled by new creative directors stepping in at the helm of historical French fashion houses, it goes without saying that the debut of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior — after almost a decade at the rein of Valentino together with Pier Paolo Piccioli — would have been waited with extreme anticipation.
The new Dior woman for Spring Summer 2017 is not afraid of showing her weaknesses, her romantic side - and why not — her unpredictable mood. Ruled by the moon. “La lune” (the moon) on a chunky grey wool sweater and the other tarots cards engraved on squared evening clutches, or intrinsically embroidered on evening gowns. They are all symbols of this new Dior, but also homage to the superstitious Christian Dior himself. The French master was obsessed with astrology and other myths of the occult, and certainly this collection wanted to be inspired by his legacy more in spirit than in form.
We saw that vocabulary that was once the signature of Chiuri and Piccioli for Valentino: transparency made of dreamlike sheer tulle in powder ivory, white, black, and a deep red, together with polka dots and precisely constructed bustiers. Underneath, the minimalist ironic men-like underwear marked with “Christian Dior, j’aDior” motto at the elastic waistband. It’s Maria Grazia’s Dior and no one else’s.
The slogan “We should all be feminists” on a t-shirt sounded more of a provocation than an admonition. This is not a woman who in the process of advocating gender equality renounce to womanhood in order to be a surrogate resemblance of her male counterpart – on the contrary she is embracing her femininity where feminism is the vehicle for empowering and liberation.
Maison Margiela Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
When you pair a fashion house that has been the symbol of breaking the rules of conventional fashion and an irreverent genius mind, the result is just powerful. Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 collection designed by John Galliano is certainly the proof that the one between the English designer and the French fashion house is a match made in heaven.
Galliano produced a collection of contrasts, un-matching references, and a rebellious spirit that only few designers like Galliano can pull off these days. Just like Martin Margiela did in his glorious years.
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2017 is a spectacular parade of superheroes out of a futuristic manga. A skirt adorned with broken CDs to create flower-like appliqués matched with a Scottish check blazer, a wet suit pulled down to form a dress, trench coats turned inside out where the lining forms a dress but that can be magically worn back as coat. Lace matched with see trough plastic lining, ruffled corsets and puffy Victorian sleeves.
The head pieces often like modern wet caps matched with hearings like a sort of Star Trek’s Spock brought a further look into Galliano’s game of double, of ambiguous, and surely of the intricate creative process that this incredible designer went through to reinterpret Maison Margiela’s identity. That’s just what we were all waiting for. Bravo John.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Delicate, intimate and certainly emotional. For his Spring Summer 17 collection Yohji Yamamoto staged a tale narrating the story of a lifetime spent creating pure poetry of deconstructed fashion and undisputed tailoring mastermind. Assisting at a show of Yohji means assisting the living maestro who shaped fashion history itself. But also the genius production of a designer who is not bending to the crude connotations of fashion system. Last Friday night, while an unexpected rain was briefly pouring in the streets of Paris, Yohji Yamamoto showed a collection full of beautifully draped silhouettes softly floating around the body of the models. But also deconstructed jacket and coats, sometimes just worn over one shoulder or as bustier hold by strategic straps, almost as connotation of the urge to shift from the conventional, the urge to create in its pure terms. All in black and white with a slash of red. The brush strokes placed gracefully on the garments were recalled by the same motif on the face of the models created by master make up artist Pat McGrath. Like the violent gesture of a painter in the moment of inspiration. The beautiful knitwear bandaging the body as assertion to some sort of laceration. As the model walked in, many in the audience felt that suspension, that poetic silent shout to life.
Dries Van Noten Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The ecstatic, almost suffocating, atmosphere of pure beauty. Dries Van Noten once again staged a show of intricate play of contrasts. Fragments of beautiful Japanese flowers prints collages almost like randomly splashed on white and neutral coloured garments were followed by Victorian-like beaded collars and mourning veils. A bright warm yellow together with deep black. As the models started to walk in, silently, with just the click clack of their heels in the background, the magic of daring, like only the Belgian designer can undoubtedly master, gradually unveiled: there were clean and raw linen looks followed by their counterparts in beautiful printed silk. Sporty shorts and tee in white matched with a black patents leather long coat. A long denim skirt paired with a bomber jacket in the most opulent silk. Embroidered black tulle together with a caramel sweatshirt.
Dries Van Noten created a collection were a complex sense of time and place played along with a fragile beauty. The fragility of fresh flowers that artist Makoto Azuma arranged in 23 beautiful ikebana sets, merged for 2 weeks in subzero water just before the show and forming beautiful ice sculptures that adorned the catwalk. As the show arrived to an end and the glittery ice blocks started to melt forming random water patches on the floor, we couldn’t be other than overwhelmed by the mesmerising sense of such a dramatic message: all beautiful things come to an end. But not certainly the magic of Dries Van Noten.
The Kurfürstendam in Berlin has welcomed the opening of the latest Ermenegildo Zegna store Inspired by architect Peter Marino’s creative vision for Zegna’s international stores, the brand’s in-house architects developed and created the new boutique. Its interior resembles a fuse of soft and structure, as its colour palette includes rosewood, mahogany as well as gun and bronze metal. Exclusively available in the Berlin store is the Su Misura service, offering the consumer the opportunity to select their preferred style, fabric and accessories.
Burberry Preview Straight-To-Consumer Collection Campaign
Shot by Mario Testino, Burberry reveals a preview of the latest advertising campaign, which will launch after the Burberry show at London Fashion Week on 19th September and will run until February 2017. The collection inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, contrasting with masculine and feminine styles, will be the brands first straight-to-consumer collection. Burberry Chief Creative and CEO Christopher Bailey says: “The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for themselves.” The campaign featuring British models Jean Campbell, Alex Dragulele and Swim Deep bass guitarist Cavan McCarthy is shot at the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool, a historic scenery for the upcoming collection.
Kobe Bryant at Nike Amsterdam Headquarters
“Mamba is back”, Mr Bryant says as he walks up on stage at the Nike Headquarters in Amsterdam. The recently retired NBA-player performed his last game on April 13th at the Staples Centre and ended his basketball career with an amazing 60 points, which he said was to bring excitement to the game and make people, including himself, forget it was his last. At a young age, he decided to start playing for the NBA, as he wanted to learn from the best, and it worked out brilliantly. Only 19 years old, he played against basketball legend Michael Jordan.
Being opposite Jordan didn’t scare him, but made him realize how good he had to practice to get to his level. During the half-hour Q&A Bryant talks more about growing up in Italy, coach Phil Jackson being the person he learned the most from and of course his on-going collaboration with Nike. As Bryant is very much involved in the process and design of the shoes, he will continue to innovate, find new and better materials, which should result in the best performance for athletes. There won’t be an acting career in the near future, but Kobe Bryant has a desire to inspire millions, by telling his story.
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
Woolrich John Rich & Bros. returns to where the brand started in 1830 in its latest Fall/Winter 2016 campaign, as they collaborate with conceptual photographer Jackie Nickerson and work on a Roadtrip project, shot in the historic Woolen Mills, Pennsylvania. The America-born brand is founded on tradition and adaption, proved in the images being shot in and around Woolen Mills, showing the brands’ signature manufacturing process and standards between industrial production, nature and social responsibilities, while also being innovative with modern outerwear.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 Campaign
Karl Lagerfeld has created collages mixing up emoticons, pearls and coloured fabrics for the CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016/17 campaign. The impulsive images reflect a modern energy with models adorned in pearls, styled with riding boots and the BOY CHANEL bag. Sophistication is added through its knitwear, embellished with eyelets and badges. The brands classic attitude collides with a new, vibrant creative direction. On this decision Lagerfeld told WWD; “I was tired of girl holding a bag. – I wanted to do something else that we have never done before.”
"Watching Water" John Elliott SS17
A mirrored pool as runway, DJ Lee Bannon playing the soundtrack in collaboration with Boiler Room. At the SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ, John Elliott presents Spring Summer 2017 Watching Water, styled by Eugene Tong. Elliott says he has matured as a designer and so have his curiosities, one of them being understanding the idea of luxury. “One element of curiosity that was left untouched is the idea of understanding luxury. As a child, when I would think of what the idea of luxury is, I would envision the obvious status symbols – vacationing on an island, laying on a beach, or cruising on a yacht. For this season I took the literal approach of what you might need when you are Watching Water, and I let this idea infect me”. The collection blends smart and street wear, tailored trousers and bomber jackets, with a vibrant colour palette of crisp whites, cobalt blues and a range of greens. As Elliott expands his repertoire, he introduces bright eyewear and includes vintage Nike Aqua Socks on the runway for selected looks.
Marni Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
The multiple facets of the Marni woman is portrayed by five lively characters in the Marni Fall 2016 campaign, shot in an abandoned, ancient mansion by Hellen van Meene. Giovanni Bianco & GB65 have through their art direction accomplished to create a delicate atmosphere in the deserted estate with hints to the surreal. The images, styled in Marni Fall 2016/17 by Lucinda Chambers, shows the collections new translation of romanticism.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2016
“I thought that was a modern idea to make them participate. They should be shown too”, Karl Lagerfeld says about the CHANEL Haute Couture Fall/Winter spectacle, which saw the Grand Palais transformed into an atelier. Decorated with mannequins, sewing machines, threads and toiles, the show pays tribute to the seamstresses, tailors and dressmakers who make the collections happen. The garments have a polished silhouette, with angular shoulders, three quarter length sleeves and wide-cut trousers styled with leather thigh-high boots. CHANEL’s statement tweed jackets draws focus on the waist with pockets placed on the hips. Autumnal shades are balanced out and enhanced with hints of pink, black and white. Closing the show is CHANEL’s bride, who Lagerfeld has envisions in a bustier and trousers formed from lace tulle and satin, coated with pink and white wool.
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016/17
Circus, the famous collection for summer 1938 inspired this season’s new show, which almost felt magical. Sharp silhouettes and sparkling details defined the wardrobe for a strong, confident woman with Parisian charisma yet worldly imagination. The Schiaparelli’s jacket is architecturally structured with striking shoulder lining, while keeping its femininity through the fluidity and sheerness of the dresses. This collection stays through to Schiaparelli’s signature style of infusing art into fashion and plays with sensuality through added slits and shorts.
Moncler O Autumn/Winter 2016/17
In collaboration with Off-White’s creative director Virgil Abloh, Moncler announces it’s Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection, called Moncler O. The range of clothing is influenced by fishermen of the Northern seas, made apparent in the collection’s waistcoats animating lifejackets along with long jackets including detachable or fixed hoods and short parkas. This collaboration makes for a unique collection, as there is a blend of street style and technical elements. The mix of materials is therefor unexpected, as we see PVC, nylon and other rubbery fabrics, incorporating prints featuring stormy skies, but also a nostalgic look made in pure wool crêpe. Abloh’s hallmark is in the form of the diagonal stripes present throughout the collection.
Interview Dawid Tomaszweski at Berlin Fashion Week SS17
German-Polish designer Dawid Tomaszweski started up his business in 2009 and has in just a short time drawn us all in with his refreshing new take on luxury women’s wear. We spoke to Dawid after his Spring 2017 show at Berlin Fashion Week.
Hi Dawid - You’ve been designing for quite some time now. Do you still get nervous before your show?
I still get a little bit anxiety before every show. I have never done a show based on whether it will work or not. Every collection is a result of hard work. In the collection I always show my vulnerability, so I still get the butterflies in my stomach before the show.
As a designer always staying ahead of what’s already been done, and creating innovative and modern collections, where do you get your inspiration from?
My surrounding is my inspiration. One one hand - the city that I am living in Berlin, it’s contemporary art, painters, architects etc. On the other hand - I get my inspiration from people, who are around me. My friends, family and of course from my mom - the biggest supporter, the woman who has a huge influence in my life and will always have.
Autumn/Winter 2016 was shown in January, which was a structured, coloured collection. How is Spring 2017 different?
Spring 2017 is a new chapter in my ''collection book’’. It is a new story, a fantasy, a sweet dream that comes true. Delicate, soft pallets, gentle feminine silhouettes, the fairy tale that was named ''Blushes’’.
Your garments have been featured in magazines like Vogue and Vanity Fair. Has there been a turning point in your career that stands out?
For sure. Appearance in such magazines as Vogue, Vanity Fair means a lot to me as well as to my brand. But I’ve never created for fame or success. I am just doing what I love. I am truly dedicated to my job and it is a result of my work.
Berlin has turned into a fashion hot spot in recent years. What is it about Berlin?
Berlin is a place where so many cultures, ethnicities and nationalities found their corners, it is a city that ''has something in stock’’ for everyone. It is always changing, open-minded city, free and wild.
Is there anything you’d still like to achieve? What does the future hold for Dawid Tomaszweski?
I have never limited myself with my dreams. I create, I design and I see the results. I’m not thinking what future holds for me, I am working on my future and I am achieving.
MBFW: Wendy&Jim SS17
In seventeen years of creative matrimony Hermann Fankhauser and Helga Ruthner of Wendy&Jim have yet to show signs of slowing down. Their showcase for SS17 at Berlin’s famed Galerie Crone was a breath of fresh air as much as a throwback to fashion’s heyday in the ought’s. After meeting at the Viennese University of Applied Arts in 1999, where Helmut Lang mentored them, they moved on to be a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – a promising teaser for their stint at MBFWB. A wonderland somewhere between Japanese manga and street performer opened up on the gallery’s first floor: a cross-legged model in a long black robe with pleats hovers about a meter above an artificial patch of grass, littered with cigarette buds and all. Another, dressed in a flower-clad kimono, holds on to a potted plant while the next one floats beside a street sign.
The collection itself is urban street wear rooted smack dab in the middle of Antwerp and Tokyo: an International Klein Blue hooded track suit paired with yellow socks in sandals and reflective wrist bands or a tunic and long skirt adorned with flowers. A little more out there, yet wearable are drop-crotch cycling shorts with spandex-turned-stray jacket tops in either yellow or red paired with cowboy boots or an equally tight ensemble of cycling shorts and crop top emblazoned with a creature that’s half snake, half sassy lady sticking out her tongue. A second room held a much more somber installation: a model in a white jumpsuit hovered above a bed in an otherwise dark room, while a performer on his illuminated skateboard circled the room, reliving the last days of disco. An exciting SS17 collection and an equal parts whacky and enchanting presentation by Wendy&Jim only begs one question: Will you be back for more, please?
GOETZE SS17 Collection
Boyish youth, styled manhood, and reworked casualwear - GOETZE's SS17 collection conveys all of these sensibilities. The collection adapts the forms and silhouettes taken from athletic apparel, while placing emphasis on the functionality that materials like mesh and poplin bring to the clothing. The tone of the pieces reinforce the light and active nature of the apparel, with palettes of sea blue, sky blue, navy and anthracite that note the light, active touch specified for this collection. Founded by Sissi Goetze following her completion of her studies at Central St. Martins in London in 2011, and shortened to GOETZE in 2016, GOETZE was formed around an ongoing exploration of unique formal and casual sensibilities within essential menswear items. Restraining her output to variations of men's shirts, pants and jackets, each collection considers the creative potential within limitation, utilizing material in a gestural nod towards both functional aesthetics and minimalist design. GOETZE fuses historical precedents of menswear with everyday aspects of contemporary masculinity, taking inspiration from both athletic apparel and casual wear.
Willow Smith for CHANEL Eyewear Fall 2016/17
As actress and singer, Willow Smith is the face of a new generation and has now been chosen as the face of the Fall/winter 2016/17 campaign for CHANEL eyewear. The images and short videos for the campaign are shot by Karl Lagerfeld, with a minimal black and white focus. Dressed with jewels from the Fall/Winter 2016/17 collection, Willow shows her bubbly personality for the new eyewear collection, which features optical designs and sunglasses.
PFW: JULIEN DAVID SPRING 2017
“This season I was inspired by the inertia of waves from sound to ocean and creative waves”, says Julien David on his Spring 2017 Menswear collection, taking its inspiration from comfortable tropic summer days in Japan. The colour palette includes pastel pinks, blue and green silks highlighting the infamous Hokusai print. Trousers and sleeves are printed with texts like ‘Wave Length’ and the layered styling, accessorizing jumpers with belts across at chest height, which gives the collection a grungy feel.
PFW: LOUIS VUITTON SPRING 2017
Going back to its blueprint and claiming its identity. In Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2017 collection, they return to the brand’s heritage, drawing inspiration from Africa in rich textiles and prints with a colour palette led in Savannah-bleached tones. We find a dose of London Punk in the garments, in the use of ‘dog-collars’, mohair and transparent rubbers. The collection has the characteristic elegance and expertise we’re used to from Louis Vuitton. Visual artist-duo Jake and Dinos Chapman have for the second time collaborated with Louis Vuitton by creating four animal-like prints, used on the mohair jumpers.