Dior “Rose des Vents” jewellery collection.
With his wind rose or better the ‘‘Rose de vent‘‘ jewellery collection Dior takes us a voyage to the four winds. Victoire de Castellane designs the ‘’Rose de vent’’ for Dior Joaillerie highlighting that passion for colour that unites the designer with the Dior House. Turquoise blue and lapis lazuli, pink opal and pearlized white are the colours that Dior has embellished the bracelets, the sautoires and the long and short necklaces expanding to include pendants and rings. The jewellery is presented in an onyx version and another covered in diamonds. The collection broadens the horizons of the medallion jewel. The whole collection brings in mind moments of summer and sea and this is not strange since the story began at Granville, in the villa where Christian Dior had spent his childhood, overlooking the sea, perched on a cliff-top. The collection combines the star and the rose which is Dior’s favourite flower.
Kaviar Gauche Launches Bridal Concept Store
Duesseldorf's Koenigsallee flaunts a whole lot of exquisite designer stores, but until March 17th, an exclusive bridal concept store was yet to be present. Berlin-based designer duo Kaviar Gauche, aka Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl, had their aim set on changing that. In a love-focused, bloomy ceremony, they launched their first Duesseldorf bridal concept store on the famous shopping mile in attendance of their elaborated clientele. Between champagne-colored walls and smoked-glass mirrors, guests such as modern art collector Julia Stoschek and director Oskar Roehler admired not only the bridal couture itself, but accessories and wedding essentials galore. The concept store is heaven-on-earth for a wedding planer, or at least the dream inspiration for a bride-to-be. Headpieces, shoes, bridesmaid dresses and registry outfits, even jewelry and candles – Kaviar Gauche makes sure there's nothing missing once you step up to the altar. All those pretty things are surrounded by tasteful design, centering around the steel tree-wardrobe designed by architect Amir Abadi. As a message on the wall puts it, on the Koenigsallee in Duesseldorf, you will not only find a wedding dress, but “everlasting love”. We do!
Valentino Fall/Winter 2016
Even though there were eclectic patterns, bright colors and even a glossy, red coat in it, the latest Valentino Fall collection is still a soft one. There just was a certain tender vibe to it that let the models shine in a calm light, presenting a collection that lends a hand to those run over by the fast pace of see now-buy now fashion. Even though there were these drop-out pieces, the collection is still defined by pastel tones, earthy and soothing colors and feminine, romantic silhouettes. There are poufy ballet skirts cut up into layers, floating dresses that hug the body like a comforting friend, and big collared coats that are very in line with this season's trend, but also a shield from its hasting characteristics. On its beginning, the collection nevertheless voices some harsh tones, with black looks and loose outlines creating a mysterious atmosphere. Luckily, the calm tone keeps the lead for the rest of the collection. Face it, we all need some down-time from fashion's headspin once in a while. How good to know that Valentino is here for us.
Gucci's Second #GucciGram
Since Alessandro Michele has taken over the reigns at Gucci, nothing the brand puts on the market is monochrome, monotonous or dull. Take their eclectic, era-spawning collections, themes and innovations, or, for example, the collaborative digital #GucciGram project. Launched in its second installment, the project now dotes upon the new Gucci Tian pattern and invited artists and online illustrators to interpret and rework their own style of the pattern. What arose from that is imagery featuring everything from blurry cats to butterflies in a jar to a floral skyline building and cartoon figures crossing the street. The eclectic, multifaceted spirit to this campaign was created by only Asian-origined artists, referencing the cultural background of the pattern itself. At the same time, the artworks refer to Western orientalist fantasies and 18th-century Chinoiserie. The final results will not only be shown across the artists' social media accounts, but naturally also on Gucci's instagram account and on an extra micro website. Gram it or talk it, if there's one thing that Gucci gets going, it's participation.
LOEWE Fall/Winter 2016
Just like in their latest advertising campaign, earthy colors and monochrome looks dominated the LOEWE runway at their Fall/Winter 2016 presentation. The inexplicable, elusive mind that is Creative Director Jonathan Anderson always seems so put together a distinctive and strict aesthetic in which every garment is utterly different from the other, but in which everything blends perfectly like grains in the sand. At Paris Fashion Week, the Spanish label thus unveiled a collection of various flowing silhouettes, with dresses and skirts being the most prominent pieces. Paired with either asymmetric or body-tight tops and contrastingly oversized coats, they brought to life a modern look that speaks to women from Barcelona to Beijing equally. The cool, sophisticated combinations are interrupted by this season's go-to accessory: purses disguised as cat and mask-faces dangle around the models' neck, giving a funny twist on the tourist-style money bag usually very wisely banned from fashion. LOEWE though quite literally let the cat out of the bag, and the result will have the fans purr in pure bliss.
Looking for Marni: Eyewear Presentation
For its latest eyewear presentation, Italian label Marni stepped up its game. Their showcase “Looking For Marni” was not just a presentation, not just an exhibition or event: it was a theatrical demonstration, an intimate performance piece that highlights the famous links between art and fashion design. As Marni says, a brand is defined by its actions and not just the aesthetic it creates. Thus, the Italian house took its creative atmosphere to the stage and unveiled their showpiece at the Padiglione Visconti, a singular industrial space that is currently being used as a rehearsal atelier by the La Scala Theater. The theatrical spirit easily transferred itself onto Marni's presentation: a cast of dancers is presented with a variety of props, ranging from oversized tables and chairs to a raised stage – that is, if the performers are not dangling from the ceiling. The theater piece was conceived in collaboration with Susanna Beltrami and her dance company and has a duration of 90 minutes. Marni's aim is not solely to entertain, but also blend the lines between performer and spectator. Looking For Marni is both a theatrical and real-life experience. Poetic feelings ignite in between the performance and its viewers, bringing to life the incomparable, eclectic Marni spirit. Come to think of it, it's hard to think this presentation was only about eyewear, after all.
photos: D. Lovati
Etro Fall/Winter 2016
On Friday, February 26th, models stepped out on Etro’s flower carpet to impress. Floating over the red-and-brown floor decor, they sported the latest Fall/Winter designs, which were a true reference to Etro’s signature looks. It was not only the carpet that alluded to flora, but so did the garments. Mixed with Etro’s typically tribal and Aztec patterns, they composed a true and traditional collection while staying focused on new twists. For instance, there was this season’s it-item in outerwear, the floor-length coat, there were shiny velvet jackets, there were even Scottish-looking checks. Etro is back on track and leading it at the same time, with new ideas quite literally revolutionizing tradition. It is in in moments like these that one is completely satisfied with getting what was expected – because it just made everything even better.
Fay Fall/Winter 2016
When we think of cowgirls, the outdated cliché that most likely pops to mind is pink fringes, hot pants and knotted check blouses. Fay’s Fall/Winter collection has none of that. At Milan Fashion Week, the outerwear label presented a collection that was designed for the cool cowgirl, the one that rocks a hoedown with understatement instead of on a mechanic bull. With a color palette very much sticking to blacks, dark blues, greys and browns, the collection is ready to be worn not only in the desert but on the city sidewalk. However, it's not all gloomy western with Fay-designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Shifty floral dresses that end mid-thigh release the collection of its seriousness and add a light and very, say, “western chic”. Between that, the designs also feature allusions to other cultures, with vaguely aztec patterns reminding of even more southern inspirations. The finishing touch comes in form of glittering, fringed and embroidered party dresses, taking the selection from the saloon to the salon. Slip into one of Fay's new designs and we'll bet you, you'll never get that odd cowgirl cliché again.
Emilio Pucci F/W 16
With a green coat and a striped jacket, Emilio Pucci started its Milan Fashion Week show quite subtle. One look later though, the Italian brand went in for the big bang - and that speaks for the rest of the show. This season, no piece at Pucci goes without pattern, without fluorescent colours or newly assembled stripes. Starting with patterns that in their design recall mountaintops, the collection then went to full-on patterned looks, from chevron stripes meeting modern-art-inspired colour blocking to a mixture of camouflage and flower power creating a whole new look. Shiny tops blazing the brand name in its classic writing break up this potpourri of patterns, while plain coloured coats also give the eye a break. Emilio Pucci went in for the big bang, but we don’t mind, since that mountaintop pattern looked so good, we’re definitely fancying a ski trip now.
Photos: Monica Feudi
Mulberry F/W 16
She is a bright student, broody in her own melancholy, surrounded by heavenly pearl shimmer, a dark romantic at heart. Poetic words define the latest collection by British label Mulberry. This by no means is capriciousness, but lies in the inspiration of the brand's new creative director Johnny Coca. For his first Mulberry F/W creations, the designer was inspired by no other than William Shakespeare. It's his ability to capture every stream of society, from royalty to nobody that Coca admires and therefore translated into his new collection, along with inspiration from the contrast of London streets. The result is a clothing range defined by contradictions. Sharp tailoring meets pure femininity; soft pleats are fused with bold cuff details. Johnny Coca is testing his limits, but always holds onto the British soul. Majestic, big-collared capes go along soft tulle dresses and luxury knitwear. Details such as an overload of rings allude to royal influences, while on the other hand variously sized buttons suggest functionality. May the poetic inspirations to this collection be recited often, as for Mulberry, to be or not to be is out of question.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2016
She’s a lady, her style is feminine. She’s a lady, her style is high-end. She’s a lady, she wears BOSS. For the latest Fall/Winter designs, BOSS’ art director Jason Wu put the spot on supreme femininity. Don’t think girlish, playful themes – Wu picks up his path with curvy lines that enhance the female silhouette and effortlessly create an immaculate look. Manufactured by dedicated craftsman hands, the collection lines up an impressive assortment of high-quality materials such as felt, satin, mesh and bouclé. It is Wu’s strength to combine these clashing fabrics into elaborate designs. He takes on that by finding surprising inspiration in modern architecture, which equips the softer designs with still precise hems and edges. The colors float upon another wave, ranging from hot pink to cinnamon tones, natural green, beiges while simultaneously covering a large scale of female tastes. It is precision with fragility that BOSS presented at New York Fashion Week, for the woman that is fierce with just a little bit of floral. She’s a lady, and she doesn’t only wear BOSS. She is boss.
DKNY RTW Fall 2016
What clearly stayed in mind from DKNY’s latest Fall/Winter collection were the oversized coats, made from shiny, synthetic materials and featuring a voluminous shape that seems to be very much on the rise this season. Their floor-length design, paired with evenly oversized lacing, expressed a ruling confidence that left the viewer in admiration for Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the designer duo revolutionizing the DKNY brand from the core. However, even if the oversize shape is an undeniably strong force in this collection, not everything was out of proportion. Osborne and Chow made free assembly their friend and presented cut-out shirts with varying lengths, dresses not only with fabric but shape combinations and a contrasting material mix. Contrast could also be detected in the color palette, which saw heavy dark tones confronted with sparkling red and white. While this all may trick you into a very serious state of mind, the designers proved to have not forgotten about the splash of humor every fashion collection needs: whereas in the 90ies, DKNY was known for sprawling their logo across their items, the new designs simply read “Insert Logo Here”. Confidence, charisma and humor – if this collection was a person, we’d sure like to be introduced.
CHANEL Opens on Königsallee in Düsseldorf
Get out your address books (pardon, smartphones) and switch to contacts: CHANEL has a new address! The Parisian brand changed its Düsseldorf location on the notorious shopping mile Königsallee to number 40. After having been located on the backside of an inner courtyard for years, CHANEL is now full front accessible to shoppers from allover the world. The new store opened its doors on February 10th and hosts 350 square meters of divine luxury goods. Customers enter the boutique via a gallery, where they are met by Andrei Molodkin's oil sculpture CHIC. Further on, an accessory room displays all smaller goods from handbags to sunglasses, scarves and jewelry. The watch collections of Mademoiselle Privé, J12 and Première find dedication in an additional section. Naturally, the clothes themselves deserve their own honoring: two intimate and comfortable Prêt-à-porter salons invite the shopper to prop down on a tweed sofa, lounge in a Wendell Castle chair or have a glance into the book on the Ingrid Donat table. New York architect Peter Marino was entrusted with the design of this particular boutique and incorporated the two CHANEL core characteristics: timeless modernity and Parisian refinement. Inspiration to the new rooms was Mademoiselle Chanel's famous apartment at Rue Cambon 31, where intimacy and elegance were united in every room. Safe to say that after such a precise reinvention process, Königsallee No. 40 is its equal in every way.
Versace Shares Emoji App and T-Shirts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so is the big fear: what am I going to do? If you’re one half of a happy couple but haven’t found the right gift just yet, Versace will stand beside you. Released on the day of love, the brand shares its #VersaceSharesLove project that centers around the 21st century expression of emotions: emojis. Versace has launched its own emoji app with which users can embellish their photos with a range of backgrounds, filters, text colors and – of course- emojis. Now, these are not just your regular go-to emojis, but ones that Versace had customized: they come stylized as the iconic Versace Medusa head. Along with the free app download comes the perfect gift. Versace launches a new line of T-Shirts, embellished once again with the special smiley head. So if on the 14th, you’re short for words in order to express your feelings, just send the hearty-eyed medusa. He or she will understand you, for sure.
Eastpak X Tim Coppens
Over time, high fashion has encountered many unusual and unexpected collaborators. At New York Men's Fashion Week, it was once again met with another surprising category: backpacks. For his F/W collection, designer Tim Coppens teamed up with no other brand than classic backpack manufacturer Eastpak. The American brand, which has defined the backs of many on their way to school and university and the designer have previously collaborated for Eastpaks Artist Studio line. The 2016 rucksack line is the first collection of the collaborators after the work on the studio. Presented during Coppens' show at NYMFW, the collection consists of bags that are constructed from a lot of influences. Just like Eastpak, Coppens finds his inspiration in international youth cultures. The new designs carry everything (metaphorically and literally) : traits of Japanese street wear, technical materials, unexpected color combinations met with western influences and finest craftsmanship. Available only as a limited edition, the collection presents backpacks in four colors, made from high-quality leather and adorned with contrasting lacing. Mesh inserts give the necessary sporty touch while an easy-to-handle top flap makes space for all belongings. Eastpak is no longer seen on the way to school, but on the way to rule the cat – and sidewalk.
Givenchy Men's F/W 16 & Couture S/S 16
At the latest Givenchy presentation, viewers found themselves caught somewhere between a game of Tetris and the inside of a gum bubble. In Paris, the French fashion house chose to reveal both their menswear designs for F/W 16 and the couture designs for SS 16 in one captivating show. Ricardo Tisci's theme for this collection apparently was freedom, which he chose to express in a variety of designs that weren't at all as monochrome as the seating. For the menswear, Tisci alternated between sharp silhouettes with classic outerwear and more layered, colorful designs. Cobra-flagged knitwear was seen next to tribal inspirations and fringed coats; embellished collars on jackets and coats went along with college sweaters and pinstripe combinations. The couture marked a welcome contrast to all that. Sheer dresses had their parts as much as expressive dotted designs. Lace and other thin materials gave the collection a soft touch, whereas tight bandeaus in a wrapped style suggested a confident couture look. For his latest presentation, Ricardo Tisci's bubble might have been pink as gum, but we sure do enjoy it in there.
Icosae F/W 16
Take the cash and run – a thought than some of us might encounter more than once in life. For Icosae, it’s the title to their latest F/W 16 designs, shown at Paris Fashion Week. They took the cash and ran, ran through time in particular. The designers drew inspiration from a vast pool of media and youth cultures. From groups like London suede heads to the techno music generation, they extracted inspiration from music, photography, drawing, sculpting and mostly paintings. The result is a balance between realism and just enough abstraction that ends up in a deconstruction of tailoring proportions. Asymetrical shapes mark this collection just as much as the dark colors that underline the urban atmosphere. Take the cash and run – but only dressed in Icosae.
Dior Homme Show & Dinner F/W 16/17
At the Dior Homme Show, the atmosphere was one to be taken in slowly. Red lights met skate parks and let the models waltz through the venue surrounded by larger-than-life video installations. The collection itself took on the “very rouge” vibe of the scenography, working several red tones either in small or large-scale checks combined with dark colors and eccentric black-and-white prints. Monochrome flower prints went along with detailed knitwear patterns and smaller millefleur print. To finish off the special occasion, Dior continued the show with a celebrity-attended exclusive dinner at the Paris Museum of Modern Art. Fascinating clothes followed up by fancy food? What a night!
Augustin Teboul F/W 16/17
Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul combine glamour and rock’n’roll in their collection like no other. The most astonishing design choice for FW 16/17 was hands down color. Both ladies are renowned for their femme fatale aesthetic circling 50 shades of black. This season, popping 80s hues made a guest appearance in delicate mesh structures and beading, from barely there tights to bodices, adding a glam rock touch in deconstructed knits and graphic structures to the all-black core of the collection. As a result, the Augustin Teboul woman becomes the naughty lovechild of Olivia Newton-John and Molly Ringwald. Delicate wovens mixed with luxe wool and leather pack some punch and cater to elegance and laissez-faire. Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul always keep their eyes on their woman: an enigma wrapped in a riddle, teasing the beholder with lots of skin before pulling away, covering in long layers of darkness.
Estonian label Whitetail is renowned as one of the key players in sustainable fashion and ethical production. Designer Margit Peura stuck to her minimalist cuts, enhancing each design with a golden headpiece. A distortion of the viewer’s perspective was the result, putting the clothes rather than the individual behind them in focus. For FW 16/17 Whitetail worked with a range of materials and textures: knitted sweaters and dresses stand next to see-through chiffon blouses, heavy woolen coats and delicate woven skirts. Eclectic prints, appliques, buttons and ruffled hems add a playful twist to the collection. Bright colors transformed last season’s muted Whitetail aesthetic. This time around bold red, royal blue, light grey, khaki and salmon liven up glum winters skies.
Lemaire Fall/Winter 16/17
At Lemaire’s menswear presentation, dark colors and very classic cuts were in store. The label presented a menswear wardrobe perfectly suitable for its wearers daily business. Classic single and double -breasted coats were featured next to simple jackets with oversized pockets and slim-cut blazers. Paired with a sophisticated black cape and baggy pleated trousers, the outerwear makes for a contemporary look that the Lemaire man can take on a business meeting, a date, or just pop out for a drink in. It’s versatility that makes good clothing, and we thank Lemaire for delivering just that.
KENZO Fall 16/17
To find inspiration for their latest collection, KENZO designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon lived the jet set life. Multiple journeys to japan and numerous concerts are base to their F/W 16/17 designs. Therefore, Japanese culture in its entirety, but especially music and concerts play a distinctively important part: the new KENZO collection is an ode in itself, an ode to music, an ode to fans, and to positivity. Leon and Lim were fascinated by the unique connection between musicians and their fanbase and wanted to emphasize the feeling of positivity that is harbored by a concert crowd. But how does one translate such a feeling into clothing? KENZO does by creating a relaxed look with a nevertheless slim silhouette. Comfortable wool pants combined with faux crocodile leather jackets melt the cool and the eccentric, the latter supported by a mix of psychedelic prints. Attention to detail is key, with peace-symbol buttons and the KENZO founder signature used as embellishment completing a vast collection. What to do now? Check for plane tickets to Japan. Or at least for a concert ticket. Or both. Jet set is on!
Xavi Reyes FW 16/17
The Spaniard followed the call of Berlin’s capital to present his FW 16/17 collection during MBFWB, while the key players of this season’s official campaign, Natasha Poly, Atsuko Kudo and Jeff Barks had flocked to the front row from their previous Fashion Talk to take in the unisex designs. Combining the masculine and the feminine, futurism and tradition in edgy cuts, asymmetry, muted hues and free silhouettes. Inspired by his home, the Extremadura, he breaks melancholy severity with romantic elements such as white embroidered lace, flounces and oriental patterns oh so typical for the southern Spanish region.
Dries Van Noten: Peacock and Psychedelic F/W 16
Dries Van Noten’s latest collection is quite well defined by its own accessories. Listen up, and create your own image of it: Army style marching boots, classic city and dress shoes, faux fur coat collars worn as shawls and, last but not least, golf shoe tassles worn separately. Such a summary of deconstructed, estranged characteristics applies to the whole collection. This season, the Dries Van Noten man is a modern day peacock that displays his feathers with pride. Besides that, there is some psychedelic jugendstil displayed. The Van Noten wearer is an iconoclast that carries his very own uniform. Still, uniforms have also soaked into this collection. Insignia of regalia are ripped off and embellished onto the wardrobe of an iconic man. Bullions are worn as badges of ornament – restraint is not on the menu for Van Noten these days. Far more, he is all about deconstruction: clothing construction is subverted and the silhouettes, materials and colors mix in an open-minded assembly. Forms of formality of the sartorial are met with the oversized, robust uniform wools go along with silk jacquards, fine cashmere and velvet. The colors also spill broadly, from classic, to military, to outright flamboyant. Today, with Dries Van Noten, we’re not just us. We’re like a peacock. Only with this collection, each of our feathers looks different.
Marina Hoermanseder Lifts Off for F/W 2016
Amelia Earheart without a doubt was one of the most impressive women in this world. Flying across the Atlantic Ocean as the first woman to do so, she has established a legend-status that has been mentioned across various media for years. What stands out in all of this coverage is her imperturbable passion and bravery. Marina Hoermanseder takes that as an inspiration for her F/W 16/17 collection. Inevitably, the garments mirror Earhart’s looks in form of flight jackets, pleat-fronted trousers and hooded coats. Female self-determination meets subtle, masculine notes. Hoermanseder’s woman is independent and displays her femininity in a charming way. Embroidered embellishments and shiny buckles add both a functional and fashionable touch. These details support the use of premium leather and make the looks a high-end “avion” style. Without a doubt, Amelia Earheart was one of the most impressive women in this world. And we’re quite sure she would have felt pretty good in this gear.
G-Star RAW Celebrates
For G-Star, the 20th anniversary of their most famous denim design must feel like the growing up of the first-born child. Elwood 5620, the brand's most revolutionary and cult piece, turns 20 this year. Thus, in celebration spirits, G-Star has decided to do what maybe separates this celebration from a normal child's birthday: they're throwing an all-year party. At the end of every month, a new Limited Edition design of the Elwood 5620 will be revealed. Among these editions will be collaborations with artists and former G-Star cooperators. And it has already kicked off: for January, the G-Star Elwood Moto was released, homage to the Enduro races that took place until the late 1960s. The original Elwood 5620 model was released back in 1996, as the first denim pants to feature 3D-denim technology and a design unique to its name. Until now, the Elwood has stayed relevant to G-Star and has become a brand DNA of sorts. As the cherry on top of the birthday celebrations, Ellen Von Unwerth shot a special SS16 campaign only dedicated to the pants. Any birthday wishes left? We don't think so.
Bally's Private Party: FW 2016 Menswear
When was the last time you attended a really good party? Like, actually, a really good one? Mesmerizing guests, good music and just the right amount of elusive small talk. Been some time, hasn't it? Well, Bally is about to invite you to the best party in a long time. Titled “A Checkered Past- Scene 1”, the brand released the menswear Fall/Winter collection along with the story of an edgy-but-glamorous ballroom party. The crowd: artists, rock stars, aristocrats and geeks – eventually everyone you wished for. Photographers lounge next to artists and talk about California, while a rock'n' roll frontman reminisces about his last tour. All of these very inspirational people have found their place in Bally's new collection. If the allover print shirt with kiss-inviting lips paired with some green fur coat isn't yelling for a rock star, then what is? If it's not the velvet suits and slouchy fedora hats that walk into the artist's wardrobe, then what is? If it's not the shiny, double-breasted coat and glasses that make for a good geek, please let us know, then what is? 2016 is not that old, but Bally has already hosted the party of the year and somehow, just very quietly, has become every one of their guests. Cheers!
Diesel Black Gold F/W 2016
Diesel Black Gold has a special delivery for you! Inspired by urban bike messengers, the label presented its menswear Fall/Winter collection at Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week. Creative Director Andreas Melbostad and his team thought of couriers riding their bikes through urban capitals while designing the garments that create a rebellious attitude in an industrial setting. References to functionality are obvious, with cycling pants and “double trousers” (shorts stitched to narrow-cut styles) making it easy to move through the city, even if you’re not delivering a package. Set against that, capes, parkas and field jackets with voluminous silhouettes submit the “fashion” element in this collection. Regarding accessories, the bike messenger is present again: cross-body bags and leather pouches for the arm keep the hands free – for whatever the urban setting has to hold for you. Leather combat boots top off the primarily dark collection in style. Well, seems like tomorrow, we’ll be taking the bike to work. If it’s that stylish?
Prada F/W 16 Show
In Milan, the sails were set as Prada models left the backstage harbour and took to the catwalk clad in a broad variety of looks, which were almost all adorned with the nautical accessory of a sailor hat. For the rest of the collection though, Miuccia Prada and her team stayed onshore: a special dedication was made to the fabric prints, which were defined by a collaboration with Berlin-based artist Christophe Chemin. Chemin is a versatile artist and has devoted his work to multiple forms of art, ranging from installations, to novels, to pencil drawings. For Prada, he now exclusively created a selection of prints. Furthermore, the designs form a blend of remarkable outerwear and calmer garments created in earthy colors. Oval-shapes and enormous collars add complexity to this collection, with female models on the other hand also presenting bodyline designs that are teamed up with velvet heels for very feminine looks among the men’s designs. Still, as the nautical reference fades within the looks, we can’t help but notice that little head stealing the show. Sail, Prada!
FENDI Women SS16 Ad Campaign
Flowers for a beautiful woman. Who wouldn’t wish for that? FENDI is here to help. But instead of placing a bunch of nice flowers on our doormat, the brand has spread them all over their latest designs, revealed in their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. Whether it’s fur, plexi, studded leather or graphic details – flowers are key at FENDI this year. The new campaign transfers a good breeze of spring, applied also to the clothing through pure eclecticism, layered luxury and the playful alternation of lengths, cuts and volumes. Natural hair and makeup make clear that this campaign is not an advertisement for little girls – but for the strong woman on the look for a fresh, cool wardrobe. For these visuals, Karl Lagerfeld took to the camera again and shot models Edie Campbell and Vanessa Moody surrounded by larger-than-life-sized flowers. “Edie and Vanessa are the girls of the moment, each with a different style representing the typical model of fashion of today and the woman I thought of for this collection is the one who can identify herself with these girls.", the designer commented. Other than flowers and models, one can also make out FENDI bags such as “Peekabo”, “3Jours” or “Micro Baguette” as the stars of the new campaign. And of course, they blossom in their most beautiful way, too. We sure wouldn’t mind one of those on our doormat.
PAULE KA Spring/Summer Advertising Campaign 16
For a grown-up, elegant and sophisticated woman, is there ever such a thing as a crush on clothes? We believe there is, and it comes in form of PAULE KA’s SS 16 advertising campaign. For the latest visuals, the brand collaborated with photographer Miles Aldridge to catch the spirit of both Pop Art and 50s French Riviera. Aldridge and Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, new Creative Director of PAULE KA, were inspired by the bold colors and cubist forms featured in the paintings of Richard Lindner, as well as the poetic portraits of Henri Matisse. Together, they have moulded this inspiration into a contemporary vision of Parisian elegance. French-Canadian model Anais Pouliot poses in the ‘couture-chic’ the brand is known for, embodying femininity and sophistication. Not only with the design has the brand gone on a trip down memory lane, but also with this campaign’s execution. Aldridge, being one of the few non-digital photographers left in his realm, releases a special edition of collectible Polaroids along with the campaign. Paris, Polaroids and Pop Art? We’re certain that grown-up, elegant women around the world will be crushing about this.
Paul Smith LC:M 2016 Presentation
It appears as if these days, recollection is more present than the actual reality. A good handful of designers are going back to the roots, whether it’s in time or geographically. Among these is British designer Paul Smith. After having just launched an exclusive T-Shirt collection with the late David Bowie, Smith released his F/W collection in surroundings that were reminiscent of the past. The designs were on display in a recreation of what was Smith’s first shop, opened in 1970, measuring only nine square meters and being open only two days a week. From there, even though he is essentially British, Smith created his own form of what feels like the American dream: becoming a global fashion business. Fast forward to January 2016, visitors had to cram into nine square meters again to catch a glimpse at the new designs. Colorful bags, inspired by Argentine tango and leather goods inspired by a Mayfair façade recap the designer’s roots in a tangible way. The little “shop” marked a fresh contrast to regular runway presentations and surely had not only Smith himself think of the old days. It’s a shame that it was only a recreation – as we’re sure these nine square meters would be quite successful today, too.
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2016 Collection
On the inside, we're different. Everyone hides dreams, belief or fears that they can't share with the world. It is a form of protection. With his latest Fall/Winter menswear collection, Craig Green takes care of exactly that. His latest designs characterize a gathering of introspective dreamers. The collection is also defined by the contrasting themes of restriction and release, for which Green has shown a continuous interest. As often, this also includes a contrast of both elegant and uncompromising. Green further investigates his love for uniform and the utilitarian, which can be seen in moss green looks and or striped combinations with both army and jail elements. With this collection, the designer also turns to long-lasting materials. A gentler quality is offered through careful aging and tarnishing techniques, providing the feel of long-serving garments. Memories are made, with clothes as both a shelter and armour. On the inside, we might be different, but with Craig Green on the outside, we are protected.
SIBLING FW Men 2016
SIBLING succumbs to obsession. With their latest AW16 collection, the designers dedicated their work to the Pop culture of the 1970s and 1980s. More precisely, two icons that have subverted in the worlds of music and art like few others: Grace Jones and Jean Michel Basquiat. Eccentric in every way, Jones’ album covers inspire the collection’s color palette. Acid yellow and blood red shoot through traditional colors like royal blue and grey, making the viewer squint in a good way. Now, it doesn’t just take the color palette to make an honest dedication - which is why for the silhouettes, the label refers to Basquiat. Luxurious Dormeuil fabric jackets, baggy pleated trousers and cropped wide suit jackets emphasize the loose shapes Basquiat is known for. Of course, his artwork is not to be left out and finds dedication in the SIBLING Fair Isle sweater. Going back to Jones, the Boxing Shorts make an allusion to her combat image. Completed with a more feminine, glittering Boxing Gown, the man is not only ready to rumble but also to revel. Now, if all of this is the result of an obsession, we might just get infected, too.
Prada SS16 Campaign
The Prada man is vulnerable – and in that lies hies truth. What sounds poetic can actually be decoded as the message behind Prada's Spring/Summer 16 campaign. The artistic concept distances itself from the image of over-stressed masculinity and focuses on more casual and relaxed aesthetics. Mirroring that are the campaign's three testimonials: actors Matthew Beard, Billy Howle and Logan Lerman. Shot by Craig McDean in a New York nightclub, the pictures convey authentic emotions and natural realness. Beard, Howle and Lerman appear caught-in-the-moment, seemingly lost in thought, but also keep an unbroken connection to the camera. Altogether the campaign is characterized by dark colors, Howles shimmering blue trousers being the exception. This mood goes along with straight cuts, minimalist tailoring and timeless accessories. Who said it's bad being vulnerable, after all?
Paul Smith for David Bowie: Blackstar
In celebration of the release of his latest album “Blackstar” on January 8th, David Bowie has cooperated with British brand Paul Smith for a set of limited T-Shirts. The designs feature the same logo as Bowie’s album, consisting of a prominent star in the middle, underlined by a row of smaller star fragments. Graphic designer Jonathan Barnbrook, who also collaborated with Smith and Bowie for the latter’s 2013 album “The Next Day”, has conceived the artwork concept. Available in black and white, the shirts are up on sale at paulsmith.co.uk from the day of the album release. Paul Smith was happy to renew the cooperation with Bowie after the two have been friends and collaborators for years. “I’ve known David Bowie for many years and have been fortunate to spend time with him in the past. I was delighted when he asked me to collaborate on the release of The Next Day in 2013 and equally delighted to work with him again on creating a T-shirt for the release of “Blackstar”, the designer commented. The album is Bowie’s 27th studio work.
GUCCI Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Following the release of their colorful, eclectic Pre-Fall 2016 campaign, GUCCI has presented the next visuals for the upcoming year. The Spring/Summer 16 campaign takes us to an equally eclectic city: Berlin. Shot by Glen Luchford, the models pose in again amazingly vibrant clothing. The settings are picked from everyday life: clubs, stations, rooftops (maybe not that everyday life) and shopping malls. And just as in the Pre-Fall campaign, animals once again inspired GUCCI’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele. Why else is the new it-accessory a life-size peacock? Naturally, the collection’s designs also remind of past decades, with the 70ies once again not only hinted but very present. Alessandro Michele takes us on a pretty little voyage, not only in style, but also in mind. If only Berlin party nights really would happen every day.
J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall 2016
For his latest Pre-Fall collection, British designer Jonathan Anderson has channeled his inner medieval expert. Most noticeable are the leg-of-mutton sleeves featured on woolen jumpers and a short, bolero-style leather jacket. Combined with voluminous trousers that also recall clothing from past centuries, the designer has successfully transferred our ancestors into the present. These references stand alongside a shiny, tracksuit-inspired combination with blown-up, patched pockets that make room for whatever today’s fashionista has to carry. The collection’s dresses once again are reminiscent of ancient clothing: they remind of habits, only to be transferred into the present by stitched pleats and ruffles. The key accessory comes in form of the “Pierce” bag, that without a doubt lives up to its name: the clasp indeed recalls certain body jewelry. Who knew that one day, medieval sleeves and piercings could go along so well? And for that, ladies and gentlemen, we have J.W. Anderson.
Copyright: J.W. Anderson
Burberry Unveils New SS16 Campaign
Since Burberry premiered its festive campaign with emerging British talents earlier this year, it seems like time has flown by. The next campaign, Spring Summer 2016, is out and again features the promising talents of tomorrow. This time, only, they originate from the fashion scene. The latest designs are being premiered by future faces such as models Hayett Belarbi McCarthy, Misha Hart, May & Ruth Bell and many more. Shot by Mario Testino in London, the “cast” of this new campaign reflects the attitude of the new collection – energetic and vibrant. Featured in their first ever Snapchat campaign in October, the ready-to-wear pieces center around one new key item: the Burberry rucksack. For this new accessory, Christopher Bailey and his team dug deep into the archives and found inspiration the military section from the early 20th century. The new product is a lightweight carryall with a soft structure and multi-zip pocket added for functionality. Functionality is also the theme behind the new womenswear designs: “Functionregalia” links regalia elements with function clothing. The menswear collection follows a similar path: sartorial clothing is mixed with unconventional elements. All of this does not neglect the key Burberry items: trench coats, scarves, ponchos – it’s all there and frankly, it wouldn’t be Burberry without them. With each collection, the British brand proves once more that tradition in no way equals boredom: whether it’s materials, shapes or colors – Burberry’s reinvention is endless. If only time wouldn’t fly by so fast.
© Copyright Burberry/Testino
Review: Fashion Film Festival in Paris
Last week marked the 8th edition of fashion icon Diane Pernet’s festival “A Shaded View on Fashion Film”. The diversified event, abridged “ASVOFF”, was held for four days at Centre Pompidou in Paris and included a selection of 80 competitive short films. Guest of honor was fashion design legend Jean Paul Gaultier who was awarded a Carte Blanche and led the jury alongside Iris van Herpen, Colin McDowell and Nicolas Godin. Musical ensemble Chicks On Speed took the stage clad in colorful, sequined gowns for a powerful performance that sparked pleasure throughout the Centre. The festival featured again a variety of master class discussions, one focusing on film music with jury member Nicolas Godin and Nicolas Saada, who discussed their collaboration on the film “Taj Mahal.” Another special session was dedicated to the history of the Woolmark label. With new talents, big names and a collection of exciting visuals, the festival once again deserves an everlasting round of applause. Can’t wait for next year.
UNAIDS’ ProTESTHIV Turns One Tomorrow with an Exclusive Collection of Tees
Since its launch last year, the UNAIDS campaigners behind ProTESTHIV, have pledged to raise awareness of HIV testing on a global scale, in the hope of ultimately eradicating the deadly virus by 2030.
In marking World AIDS Day tomorrow (December 1) and as part of this campaign, a collection of five unique T-shirts will be released on sale. The contemporary artists FUTURA, André, Dustin Yellin, Scott Campbell and Aersoyn-Lex have exclusively designed the tops, visually tackling an internationally unavoidable subject.
ZOO has the exclusivity to give away a selection of tees. What to do? Be creative with one of our current covers and send your creation to firstname.lastname@example.org, or easily purchase the extremely limited edition collection in the concept stores Goodhood (London), STORM (Copenhagen), Colette (Paris), 290 Square Meters (Amsterdam) and Soto (Berlin), with all proceeds going to UNAIDS…At 50€ per tee that must be the definition of money well spent.
BOSS, Bauhaus, Bespoke
The last director of the Bauhaus movement once said, “The Bauhaus was no an institution. It was an idea. An idea as readily applied to clothing as to buildings – architecture for the body”.
It’s no surprise that BOSS Creative Director Jason Wu has had a long-standing admiration of the Bauhaus movement. Its rigorous geometric lines form the basis of many a post-2014 BOSS collection, after Wu has combined such Bauhaus principles with the BOSS DNA of exceptional precise menswear tailoring to create a new look for the modern woman.
Now Wu looks to this artistic movement again, and draws inspiration from the Bauhaus artwork of Josef Albers and Wassily Kandinsky in his new interpretation of the classic BOSS Bespoke handbag. With a dramatic yet simplistic aesthetic, the vibrant palette of the Modernist “intarsia” bag is patterned in various luxurious materials, such as suede, box-calf and embossed lizard and crocodile prints…if Wu’s time at BOSS could be summed up in one item, it would have to be this one.
Dries Van Noten Designs Costumes for Dance-Chamber Opera, Hagoromo
For his second design collaboration with contemporary dance since he teamed up with Teresa De Keersmaeker for her work “Rain”, Dries Van Noten is behind the authentic costumes of David Michalek’s reinterpretation of Hagoromo. A piece of traditional Japanese Noh theatre, this multidisciplinary show reunites Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, both former principle dancers of New York City Ballet, to retell the tale of a fateful meeting between a poor fisherman and a fallen angel. The Belgian fashion designer draws inspiration from traditional Japanese costume design as well as typical kimono colour combinations to create a beautiful feather printed look for Whelan and a fish printed costume for Soto. Van Noten allocates minimalistic outfits to the other performers in the show, complimenting the simplistic set design of Michalek’s Hagoromo.
The world premier of Hagoromo is held at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Harvey Theatre between November 3 and November 8, 2015.
Acne Studios Open New Berlin Flagship
October 31, 2015, marked a big day for Acne Studios as they unveiled a flagship store in a city very special to the label. As chairman Mikael Schiller put it, “Berlin is a quite emotional city for us, as it was the first city outside of Scandinavia where we opened a shop more than a decade ago”.
The new 260 sqm store is located on Potsdamer Stra?e, the centre of Berlin’s art gallery district, and is consistent with the new Acne Studios Interior aesthetic. With sharp stainless steel walls and chalky pale yellow concrete walls, the clever design is reminiscent of Berlin taxis and houses the ready-to-wear collections for both men and women including the FW15 line, as well as accessories, denim and footwear. The label have also announced that New York will be the next city to welcome new Acne Studios boutiques.
Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-‘015
Debuting during the Tortona Design Week 2015 in Milan, Stone Island are bringing a retrospective exhibition of their innovative explorations into light refraction to New York. “Reflective Research ‘992-‘015” recounts the various textile manipulations that Carlo Rivetti’s label have experimented with since 1992, during an extensive study of safety workwear clothing. This involves an approach of using resins consisting of thousands of glass microspheres in coating textiles – meaning that when these fabrics hit the light in a dark setting, they completely light up.
The nostalgic exhibition includes a number of experimental processing techniques adopted by the brand on finished textiles and numerous items that never made it to production. The Stone Island Fall/Winter 2015/16 Collection will accompany it in a special presentation. Impressive.
“Stone Island: Reflective Research ‘992-'015’” is on exhibition at 41 Greene St, New York, until November 15, 2015.
Y/Project Spring/Summer 2016 Womens Collection
In the fourth season of Womenswear at the label, Glenn Martens creates an energetic, urban collection.
Graphic cuts sharply contrast lengths, from the super short to the floor grazing, whilst displaying a diverse range of shapes. Spliced garments and Martens’ continued exploration into drapery elongate silhouettes and are reflective of the architectural lines of a Gothic Church. Realized in a warm palette, fabrics are rich and accessorized with chunky metallic cuffs.
With Martens’ signature style of tailoring, he cleverly mixes masculinity with sensual femininity, ultimately creating a contemporary, innovative SS16 collection, quite unlike any other.
Akris Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
This season in Paris saw Albert Kriemler enlist Sou Fujimoto, a Japanese architect, in creating innovative fabrics for his latest collection. You’ll get no prizes for guessing which theme the collection was made in respect to: architecture.
The usually, ultra minimal effect of Kriemler’s vision was spruced up somewhat with these textured fabrics and insistent peeping window holes featured on tunic tops and dresses. Geometric lines cut across asymmetric shapes amidst a wealth of fine tailoring and chic silhouettes. Altogether, this made for a modernistic collection unusual to Kriemler’s typical approach.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It seems as if Sarah Burton has relaxed somewhat in the current season at Alexander McQueen. The intimate collection showed Burton to get familiar with McQueen’s ancestral roots, in drawing her inspiration from the 17th-century Spitalfields silk weavers, who settled in the East End of London after fleeing religious persecution in France.
An elegant assortment of lace and ruffles formed a long, slim silhouette on models, who wore chandelier earrings with their hair loosely pinned back. Dramatic chained body jewelry added a stab of McQueen grit to the gracefully feminine collection.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
There is a powerful message behind the latest Valentino Collection from Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. Their inarguably beautiful collection of bold prints and delicate patterns presents a fusion of cultures between Italy and Africa.
Braided hair, ethnic inspired jewelry and a palette of strong, vibrant colors appear in conjunction with ruched dresses, studded detailing and leather patchwork reminiscent of the Roman Empire.
No doubt people will question the ethical appropriation of the show… However, with the ongoing refugee crisis we hope that people will take something positive away from it and see the beauty of cross-culture, as Chiuri and Piccioli intended.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” has provided Raf Simons with a great source of inspiration with this collection for Christian Dior. The ultra feminine line, pleasing to dedicated Dior fans everywhere, was packed with white Victorian-style ruffles, shapes and necklines.
With neckscarves and brooches reading with “1947”, Simons has once again got nostalgic for the monumental New Look collection of that year and incorporated relaxed interpretations of classic, rigid lines into this collection. Adding a splash of contemporary androgyny Simons throws in some chunky knitwear and tailored suits.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Now in their fourth season, Vetements are no longer the new kids on the block. This collective of young designers who are proving the power of friendship are now also winners of the LVMH Designer Prize. Their latest collection pushes the irrelevance of gender and depicts the ultimate expression of cool.
Making a return to the catwalk are their signature gigantically proportioned suits, this time with dramatic splits up trouser legs and appearing in striking blues and oranges. Jacquard sweaters, Star Wars wide-leg trousers and thigh high boots emblazoned with the Vetements name are taken together to reinforce alternative, youth culture within the context of Parisian fashion.
Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
“Lo-fi, sci-fi” is John Galliano’s latest collection for Maison Margiela. An eclectic assortment of references, the designer’s otherworldly show saw the union of the vintage 50s, a futuristic space age and traditional Japan.
A turquoise beehive, leopard print collar 50s style coat and silver make up à la Pat McGrath; it began with a psychedelic bang. Next came fishnet limbs, appliqued glass fragments with an over layer of mesh. All oddly ready to wear for Galliano, we were later introduced to his reinterpretation of kimonos. Liquid-look skirts dripping in applique grazed the ankles and appeared among beautiful prints and obis in creating kimono-style silhouettes… This enthralling collection has the Galliano stamp all over it and it is spectacular.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection
Consolidating the label’s partnership with Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Angelo Ruggeri has named her as a main source of inspiration for his current, Bohemian chic Sergio Rossi collection.
In having a vintage moment with the Italian footwear brand, classic 1970s clogs are reworked into wedges that display intricate patterns contrasting the rich appearances of wood and cork. Ruggeri contrasts these chunky shapes with delicate stilettos and flats, whilst also creating a stylistic juxtaposition between day and night; eccentricity and minimalism. The line, exuding Summer and optimism, is realized in a mainly neutral palette with a multicolor camouflage effect adding excitement. With the adoption of strings, embroidered thread and crochet patterns in the unique designs, we are left with a beautiful collection embodying creativity and femininity.
Versace Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Refuting the retro looks we are seeing all over Milan at the moment, Donatella Versace is making a stand for her name and bringing back sexy into the world of fashion.
Her beautifully tailored army jackets and waistcoats that cinch into the waist with a Versace crested belt are teamed with chunky platform sandals and pulled up khaki socks to ooze sex appeal and her feeling of the moment; female empowerment.
Then come the snakeskin effect fabrics, the camo-meets-animal print, the sheer shirts and slit skirts. Donatella is defiant in her vision of Versace… And it proves to be iconic.
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
In his third season at the label, Rodolfo Paglialunga has reworked the classic Jil Sander principles. Blazers are slashed, a coat deconstructed to embody an overlaying dress with the signature shirt cut and twisted into a new contemporary idea.
There is the odd flash of color, an asymmetric neckline and a vacant shoulder strap, with a buckle motif cropping up above the footwear and unexpectedly on silk dresses at the end of the show. The collection is undoubtedly minimalistic, as all Jil Sander should be.
Moschino Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a construction site as the backdrop, an actual car wash that sprayed bubbles and a road-runway, no prizes for guessing the whacky theme of the current season with Jeremy Scott, “carwash couture”.
Models were walking puns in safety-cone colors and equally outlandish roadwork themed accessories. In referencing a Chanel skirt suit in neon safety tape, the collection proved to be undeniably smart thinking… And as the show went on the looks got bigger. One was literally a ball of feathers with a model somewhere beneath (this being the “carwash” part).
The only cautionary part to this tale however is the rampage of Scott-fans that will ensue when this collection hits the shops… It seems the hard-hats are necessary after all.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
With a scrupulous eye for the details, Alessandro Michele has created a world of intricacies with his latest Gucci collection. A continuation of his vintage-inspired vision from last season, the quirky collection contains every accessory imaginable with a plethora of floral satins and sheer chiffons.
Models donning huge rocks walk up a printed carpet reminiscent of an aristocratic interior, against a backdrop of an older Italy’s industrial landscape.
With corsages, oversized, sparkly glasses and head-to-toe printed suits, the current Gucci line is Renaissance-meets-the-seventies, and eccentricity is key.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Military-style coats with regimental studs, ribbon cording that reminds you of army uniforms and intricate lace made in the UK – the distinctively British fashion brand lives up to its namesake.
Throw in a classic trenchcoat and a personalized Cara Delevingne backpack and you couldn’t get “more” Burberry, though the clunky, chainlink sandals teamed with flowing slips and maxi dresses scream urban grunge.
Mix this with a range of sophisticated, heavy coats and you see Christopher Bailey’s move away from the idea of season-specific clothes with this collection. Making the show even more memorable, Bailey had Alison Moyet provide the soundtrack with the backing of a 32-piece orchesrtra.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
Fanny packs, metallics and platform shoes. John Galliano is taking us raving. The dingy basements of London’s club scene has undoubtedly influenced the urban fashion show with models stopping to fiddle with the stereo equipment before walking, as if choosing their own soundtrack.
Split hem maxi dresses, eagle prints, tie dye and exposed bikinis made up the basis of the current, ever-eccentric, MM6 collection… Think grunge meets punk meets glitterball. However, the sad thing is that by the fierce expression of the model/ravers, we might not be getting an invite to this cool party.
“Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”
The Grand Palais was constructed in preparation for Paris’ spectacular Universal Exhibition in 1900. Around 48 millions visitors swarmed to the event, whilst George Vuitton created one of the most iconic attractions as part of his role in organizing the entire section concerning “Travel & Leather goods”. A majestic merry-go-round formed the platform for an array of pioneering and elegant Louis Vuitton luggage and bags.
As a celebration of over a century of Louis Vuitton, the Grand Palais will now host “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton”. Retracing the label back to its 1854 origins, the collection consists of a remarkable overview of Louis Vuitton’s journey, paying homage to both it’s founders and current creators. Curator Olivier Saillard delved into the archives of the fashion brand to deliver “a fresh vision of our past, present and future”, according to Louis Vuitton’s CEO, Michael Burke.
The “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez – Louis Vuitton” exhibition will run at the Grand Palais from December 4, 2015 until February 21, 2016.
Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Apparently first inspired by a girl wearing her boyfriend’s shirt, Andreas Melbostad has taken this idea and ran with it. Perhaps too far, as at times this collection can seem a little repetitive.
With hints of sportswear mixed into the cuts and footwear, Melbostad has created an urban line with that characteristically Diesel Black Gold biker effect...
Think oversized leather dungarees, embellished leather jackets and patchwork jeans. This is all realized in a mainly monochrome palette with the emergence of a beautiful deep blue towards the end of the show.
Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
This sports-inspired line consisting of a neutral palette with the odd splash of vibrancy, suggests Wang has momentarily had his fill of all-black following last season. Mesh vests, crop tops, caps and sneakers make up the newly ex-Balenciaga director’s collection, oozing contemporary casual.
Departing from last season’s look of a subcultural, gothic-rave scene, with only studded sandals as a memento, Alexander Wang has chosen to shift his focus to urban New York streetwear for his Spring/Summer 2016 Collection.
Finished off with a nostalgic highlights reel of the past ten years of his career, along with a star studded front row, the shows reflects Wang as the great New York showman that he is.
Paul Smith Presents “A Suit To Travel In”
Paul Smith has been making suits since the 70s. As the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 ad campaign proves, they know what they’re doing. The short film shows the British Olympic medalist Max Whitlock demonstrating the sheer flexibility of “A Suit To Travel In”, which is available for men and women. Without causing a single crease, Whitlock performs a sequence of impressive, dynamic gymnastic moves... If that can’t convince you then I don’t know what can.
Miu Miu Tells a Coming of Age Story with “Les 3 Boutons”
“It’s playing a game with reality,” Varda says. “The game is called cinema”.
Agnès Varda, a.k.a The “Grandmother of the Nouvelle Vague” and the first female winner of Cannes Film Festival’s honorary Palme d’Or, has directed the tenth installment of Miu Miu’s “Women’s Tales” celebrating contemporary femininity and empowerment.
“Les 3 Boutons” sees Varda toy with ideas of classic fairytales versus modern-day reality, avoiding the clichés so often associated with girlhood. Introducing Jasmine Thiré as a typical, 14-year-old farm girl,she takes a break from milking goats upon the arrival of her postman. Avoiding the easy Cinderella tale, the inquisitve Jasmine dons her school uniform and begins a journey of self-discovery. Along the way, she gradually loses three buttons. Each of these seems to mark some element of change in her life, which can be applied to all of us, irrespective of age.
Moncler Announce Opening of New Boutique in Costa Mesa, California
Moncler unveil latest store in the exclusive Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa. This luxury shopping centre is regarded as one of California’s most significant. The one-story boutique welcomes you to lose yourself in the world of Moncler, stocking the label’s mens and womenswear collections beside a huge array of accessories.
With the marble floors, French wooden paneling and two large store windows, designed by the Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, this new boutique is worth the visit. If unfortunately you can’t make it all the way to California, the highly established Moncler can also be found all over the world in cities and ski resorts.
Theory Unveil Latest Campaign with David Sims
Theory reunites with photographer David Sims in launching their AW 2015 campaign. Natalia Vodianova and Clement Chabernaud also return in promoting the brands’ new collection in a variety of chunky knits and woolen suits.
The New York based label have once again avoided cluttering their minimalistic, modern image and opted out of following the current trends. Since being appointed as co-creative directors of the fashion brand last season, Lisa Kulson and Ben Stubbington have stripped back Theorys’ image. Simplistic looks in luxurious, soft fabrics, the fashion brand has evolved to produce unique pieces that are simultaneously easy to wear, wardrobe staples. With their new image, Theory is all about transforming the ordinary into the unordinary. They have created a contemporary, urban uniform, with their reinvention of everyday, work attire.
Hogan Celebrates The Opening of Their New Boutique in Munich
The second Hogan Boutique in Germany follows their boutique in Dusseldorf as a unique two-storey flagship store, combining modern elegance and sophisticated creativity. Hogan was founded in 1986, and is part of the TOD’s luxury goods group, and has been at the forefront of casual luxury ever since. The Hogan look is dominated by an urban effortlessness; simple, elegant and refined yet relaxed. Hand made from high quality materials, each Hogan garment is a timeless wardrobe staple. Hogan welcomes you to the new Munich boutique with their Fall/Winter 2015/16 collection. www.hogan.com
Lily-Rose Depp for CHANEL
Following in the footsteps of her mother Vanessa Paradis, Lily-Rose Depp has been made the new CHANEL ambassador and the face of its Pearl eyewear collection. The embodiment of youth, modernity and femininity, the young actress plays a baby doll surrounded by a lofty world of sweetness and style. Her appearance at the Haute Couture show signalled the start of Ms. Depp’s journey as CHANEL’s fashion darling. Discover the Pear eyewear collection campaign shot by Karl Lagerfeld in September 2015.
Rihanna x Stance: Murder Rih Wrote
Stance has announced that Rihanna is joining the unique sock brand as its contributing Creative Director and named a Punk & Poet brand ambassador. In celebration of this new venture, Stance has released two limited edition styles called Murder Rih Wrote, one in an over-the-knee style and one as a crew sock. Each set is a true collector’s piece, with only 1500 sets produced. Rihanna’s complete Stance sock collection will be unveiled this coming fall, a collaboration that epitomizes the rule-breaking, carefree and self-defined essence of both Rihanna and Stance.
Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Joan Jett had a lovechild with Prince and their union was a match made in Armani Haute Couture heaven. The rebellious, confident air of the 80’s inspired collection was undeniable. There were short raven-haired wigs, boldly colored ombre sequin getups, bulky geometric accessories and puffy but glamorous feather creations. Nevertheless, the elegance seethed out of every garment, its glamour needing no heel. The elevated 80’s looks were however strengthened by the choice of flat footwear, allowing for the eyes to focus wholeheartedly on the beautiful shimmer of the Privé wonder.
Miu Miu Club and the 2016 Croisière collection during Paris Fashion Week
In celebration of the 2016 Croisière collection and the fashion house’s first fragrance, Miu Miu set the AMO to create a one of a kind pop-up club in the French capital. Inspired by the cabarets of Les Folies Bergères and the jazz-filled streets of Montmartre, the space was a true feast for those longing for the seductive Paris nightlife. Alongside the collection showcase, the event was a full-bodied celebration of Parisian culture, including a cocktail gathering, exclusive dinner and musical performances by several DJs including Seth Troxler and Frederic Sanches who ensured the party was fit for its grand Paris venue. The resort collection echoed the carefree, dark side of the Miu Miu venue, with curiously shaped tops and punkish prints scattered throughout. The silhouette was a mashup of several decades it seems – from 60s minis to 20s drop-waist dresses. It was as if all of Paris’ nightlife ghosts had come alive to celebrate again.
Guess: His & Hers
Forget everything you know about denim. Guess’ slogan challenges you to ponder the age old adage of ‘no denim on denim’ with their denim capsule collection. Who doesn’t like to shake up the rules every once in a while? Well forget everything about what you’d think a denim suit would look like – Guess throws all the rules out of the window and presents the tailored denim suit… and nails it. The collection showcases the customization of the sophisticated suit, where Guess presents a complete reversal of this thought-to-be fashion faux pas. A top to toe denim suit . A sexy one. For both him and her. The tailored denim items will be available from September 2015.
3 Stripes In Motion – adidas Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
As the only German fashion brand present on the French runway during this year’s SS16 Men’s shows, adidas presented new collections and upcoming collaborations. Amongst these were the Y-3 brand in partnership with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, exclusive styles for Rick Owens, Kolor and Raf Simons, as well as new ventures involving Kris Van Assche. Adidas was in good company at the SS16 shows this year, as the biannual Paris fashion week as been laced with a good amount of sportswear inspired looks this season. Emphasis has been on practicality, agility and wearability and this has certainly been reflected in the footwear design. Throughout the fashion week events, adidas maintained a strong presence, having presented five new styles of footwear from is Tubular series and featured in a total of seven outings, either through their own showcases or as creative collaborators.
Saint Laurent Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Another nod to the essences of rock stardom, Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent man is one of effortless androgyny. Black skinny jeans and a fringed leather jacket, cut out jeans, flannel and printed lettermans – the SS 2016 collection seems tailor-made for the festival crowd. Considering the attention of which the stereotypical festivalgoer’s outfit is subjected to these days, it is not surprising that a fashion house as big as Saint Laurent is manifesting their own take on the rugged urbanite. Like Woodstock’s iconic fashion imprinted itself firmly in the mainstream, so it seems, does the reformulated versions of it – this time in the form of Hedi Slimane’s vision of Californian music culture.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Drawing from the animal-inspired imagery of Asian origin, Kim Jones presented a silky, aloof and quirky collection at Paris Fashion Week. As seemed to be the trend with the menswear collections recently, Jones drew inspiration from the intermingling of cultures and notions. Apparent in his garments were the sporty essences of the American variety: accessories resembled bowling bags, sweaters and letterman jackets were fashioned with a Louis Vuitton high-fashion tweak. Indeed following the spectacular womens’ resort collection, Jones does not disappoint. There is something in this collection for anyone, and it is with this strong sensibility for wearable eccentricity that the 2016 Menswear collection shines.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Welcome to the ‘hip-rock’ generation. Dubbed and exemplified by Philipp Plein’s SS 16 menswear collection, the young fashion house presents a virtual summary of what’s what in urban contemporary street fashion. Graffiti, ripped shirts, hoodies, biker jackets and tons of leather characterize this development of hip hop fashion – a movement headed by the pop culture Rock stars of today such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Kanye West. Philipp Plein’s collection is an ode to the focus and celebration of hip-hop tradition and its newborn fashion child appropriately named ‘hip-rock’.
Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion week
With effortless drapery, Stefano Pilati truly showcased a mastery of tailoring in the Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2016 menswear show. Colored darkly, constructed perfectly, the Ermenegildo Zegna man is dressed in a reconceptualization of professional attire. In place of the tight-fitting suit we are presented with a flowing yet unmistakably masculine suit. Some garments are perhaps reminiscent of a sophisticated pajama getup, yet somehow Pilati’s art direction steers the collection away from cliché.
Gucci Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
Alessandro Michele does not veer from the pristine vision of a John Lennonesque man brought to life in a reformulated sense. With tinted eyewear, flowered lace and shabby-chic hair, the Gucci man emerges as a well-stocked, well-researched vintage savant. Even with such direct references to the 70s silhouette, Alessandro seems to aim more at playing with the aspect of youth culture and the fashion choice of eccentricity, who often draw from old closets.
Moschino Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspirational origins were decidedly unsubtle and in-your-face at the Moschino Menswear SS 2016 show. Models walked out to the backdrop of a classical French mansion wearing accessories fit for… well Louis XVI himself. Certainly fascinating and absolutely eccentric, creative mind Jeremy Scott channels motor sports, French luxury and the rebellious air of Jimi Hendrix and Prince all at once.
Scott’s take on menswear prescriptions are definitively not to be put into a pigeonhole. Indeed, the signal is that there is absolutely nothing keeping you from wearing what you want to wear but availability, and Moschino and Scott certainly delivers.
“This is not about more pocket squares, more deconstructed jackets, more athelisure, more meh. It’s Moschino, baby.”
Acne Studios Menswear Collection SS 2016
Inspired by the unisex approach to dressing in 70s New York (mostly in the shape of his love of the hard rock band New York Dolls), Jonny Johansson - Acne’s creative director - has taken to creating a bold collection. Following his experiences surfing with surfer come artist Robin Kegel in the Swedish oceans, Kegel’s distinctive surfboard art has colored the collection with individualism. Printed on loose fit jumpsuits in poplin silk and cashmere sweaters, Acne’s take on the hard-rock 70s Swedish surfer is supremely awesome. With billowy shirts, abstract graphics and vivid red, blues and greens, the Acne collection is certainly made memorable.
Gucci Cruise 2016 Collection
New York City set the stage for the morning show of Gucci’s Cruise 2016 collection on June 4th. The collection, conceived by its prolific Creative Director Alessandro Michele, consists of an easy-going, youthful appreciation of urban city life. Staged in a warehouse in the city, models walked in through the venue straight off the streets, reflecting the collections’ fresh, ready-to-wear vibe and vintage affinities of the urban city crowd.
Following the collection, Michele hosted a private supper party in celebration of the collection in The Browery Bar and Grill, with a custom menu provided by Bushwick eatery Roberta’s. Special performances by Karen Elson featuring Jackson Smith and DJ Kim Ann Foxman reflected the laid-back, edgy take on vintage city-chic of the 2016 Cruise collection.
The New G-SHOCK MRG-G1000
For more than 30 years, G-SHOCK wares have ascended upon the time-telling industry with impact due to its Japanese-made (Made in Japan) engineering. G-shock was born from a desire to create timepieces of enduring quality. The robust double-coated Titanium housings envelop the newest in G-shock developed technology - creating a near indestructable timepiece.
The latest addition to the G-SHOCK MR-G flagship series is the MRG-G1000. Shock-resistant and stocked with a hybrid GPS and Radio controlled timekeeping system, the independent solared powerded MRG combines affinity for technological utility with a classically strong aesthetic. Made from Titanium with a diamond-like coating which protects the MRG-G1000, the watch is strengthened by a face of sapphire glass, making the piece both anti-reflective and scratch resistant.
Converse and COMME des GARÇONS announce new collaboration
The fruits of a collaborative effort between CONVERSE Inc. and COMME des GARÇONS, the brands unveil the fourth installment of their Play Special Edition Chick ’70 Sneakers.
Under the expert eye of the iconoclastic Japanese fashion house founded by designer Rei Kawakubo, the SS ’15 collection features black and milk canvas uppers, reinforced canvas heel strips and cushioned sock liners.
The red “Peeking” heart logo, created by New-York based graphic artist Filip Pagowski, embellishes the limited-edition collection. Featuring four exclusive pairs of premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers, they come available in both high top and ox silhouettes.
The collection will be available for purchase exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in London and New York, as well as COMME des GARÇONS New York and online on May 14.
Miu Miu Fall 2015 Campaign
Unveiling another elevated lookbook, Miu Miu’s recent campaigns have reigned supreme in shaping high street trends. From the angular yet plush handbags to the heeled brogues – their 2015 fall campaign just might set off another rush towards vintage revival.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s images tell the story of Miu Miu’s ongoing affair with the power of opposites. Starring model Estella Boersma, the images reflect the items’ sophisticated and the innocent play with the sensual and confident, through a femininity that treads a multiplex path. This juxtaposition is reiterated in the incorporation of vintage upholstery-inspired fabrics in combination with contemporary masculinity in the form of tailored shorts suits.
Exploring the subtle and direct oppositions of form and silhouette, Miu Miu brings to the table a closet packed with desirables.
Filippa K: Sustainability Is The Guide To Growth
Filippa K’s newly launched online platform finally communicates their long-term efforts towards sustainability in fashion.
Founded in 1993 by Filippa Knutsson and Patrik Kihlborg, their vision “Fashion where sustainability is the guide to growth” is channeled through a wardrobe consisting of stripped-down, simplistic designs, essential pieces. Garments of clean design and high quality seem intrinsic to the Scandinavian philosophy, where the flexibility of designs easily transition from season to season and year to year. Durability and a timeless quality is key in this configuration, where style not necessarily opposes sustainability.
Inspired by ecosystems and planetary boundaries, the company is devoted to the reduction of the textile industry’s environmental and social footprints. Their choice of materials and production practices reflect an acute awareness of the long and exhaustive supply chain, in an attempt to produce less of what is needed and deliver long-lasting garments. Their recently launched products “front runners” are completely recyclable in the fabric tencel (wood), including the corozo nut as buttons.
We want to be part of the solution rather than add to the problem.
This philosophy is based on two main concepts: The Curated Wardrobe and Circular Design. A curated wardrobe is simple rather than excessive, and should be created to last over time – the ecosystems and its inherent processes of reuse in turn inspire the circular design concept.
To read more about Filippa K’s Sustainable philosophy, visit their website at:
Replay At The Fuorisalone 2015: An Art Installation by Fabio Novembre
In conjunction with Milan’s 54th Design Week, the newly opened Replay Flagship store The Stage will showcase a conceptual art installation by architecht Fabio Novembre in collaboration with Replay. A reinterpretation of the Piazza Gae Aulenti-situated store, Novembre incorporates pieces such as the iconic Driade armchair as a take on the conceptualization of ‘the stage’.
Created exclusively for Replay, the reformulated concept is centered on the ever dynamic and ever changing sound stages of the cinema and theater – changes arise as if in a dramatic plot. Utilising masks, Novembre challenges identity and the space between the proscenium and the backstage, “Hidden identities create parallel worlds and unpredictable scenarios. But the underlying risk is the inevitable identity crisis: who am I? Who are you?”
The art installation will be on display from April 14 to 18.
Diesel reintroduces Jogg Jeans
Back in 2011, Diesel launched Jogg Jeans for the first time. By using a special fabric, they made it possible to create jeans that were just as soft as a pair of sweatpants, but durable as denim at the same time. This year, Diesel is reintroducing Jogg Jeans with a campaign shot by artist Doug Abraham. It captures exactly what Jogg Jeans are about, along with the identity of Diesel.
Antony Morato Celebrates Italian Tradition
As a typically Italian brand, Antony Morato has shown that it is all about culture, style and the passion for beauty. To celebrate Italian tradition and their heritage, the brand has decided to become a part of the restoration of The Garden of the Finzi-Continis, an Italian classic. This elegant masterpiece stands for what Antony Morato strands for, and continues to inspire us. The film was directed by Vittorio De Sica in 1970 and won an Academy Award in 1972.
Bottega Veneta opens their first Home Collection Boutique in Milan
It is just like every thing else Bottega Veneta is about: extremely sophisticated and elegant, made with the highest quality materials and crafted by hand. Bottega Veneta’s home collection includes furniture, lighting and home decoration. For the first time, the brand has opened a boutique that is completely dedicated to this collection, right in the heart of Milan.
You can visit the store at Via Borgospesso n.5 in Milan.
Hermès as Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision on Hermès for the first time with the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Even though the entire show was essentially Hermès, Vanhee-Cybulski managed to show her own signature as well.
Since Hermès is well known for their leather, she has chosen to put some extra focus on this natural material for next season. The cuts of the garments are straight and give a minimalist vibe. All of this is enhancing the idea behind Hermès luxury; modest luxury with the highest quality, which is made for the wearer to enjoy.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen told the story of life. The build-up of the show portrayed the beautiful beginning, the development and death of a rose as a perfect metaphor. The middle part of the collection was in full bloom, which was visible in silhouette and rich detail. Compared to other designers, Burton has chosen for different floral print for fall.
Key looks were short dresses that seemed to be literally made out of large flowers. The body was covered in ruffled chiffon, while the skirt looked like a popped flower.
WUNDERKIND at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
During the latest WUNDERKIND show, Wolfgang Joop gave us interesting combinations. Contrasting colors and clashing prints, bourgeoisie and bohemia. All of this was tangled up together into a collection of garments that still managed to be highly wearable and inspiring at the same time.
Westwood-esque silhouettes and luxurious tailoring emerged together into something that we can call a perfect balance. WUNDERKIND continues to embrace prints, and they do it well.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2015 show was a ball, literally and figuratively speaking. Punk and hippie influences engaged together into a love affair, which made every look so completely and utterly Westwood.
The entire show felt like a reference to a fairytale, but this time it was one on acid. Tall hats gave the assumption that they belonged to snow whites dwarfs, while the red flowered cape seemed to be inspired by Little Red Riding hood. A man in a princess dress (including corset), with his face covered in black lines and his body with tattoos, paraded around as if there was nothing strange going on.
Every garment was interesting and breathtaking, but what Westwood managed to do with our imagination was far greater. She took us away.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whatever Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy, there is always a good layer of melancholy. For Fall/Winter 2015, we see full looks in velvet with cut out patterns that hint to Victorian times. Next to century old details, Latin influences were clearly part of this collection again.
Naturally, we cannot ignore the jewelry that Tisci has brought back for next season. The focus was on the face once again, with nose rings and details under the eyes and on the chin.
Tisci’s Givenchy lady has a certain mystique around her. Her appearance tells a story of brokenness, while still being confident and slightly intimidating.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alber Elbaz is good with colors. He is also great with fabrics. He is brilliant with silhouette and always knows exactly when to stop adding. For his latest Lanvin collection, he found inspiration in the desert and in tribal wear. What he presented was proof of how a woman can change constantly. From a modern nomad to a new minimalist, from a powerful ruler to a slightly more innocent companion.
The combination of black velvet and subtle harnesses in leather, gave us some kind of medieval feel. Short ruffles almost felt Siberian and straight lines were minimalistic.
Loewe at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Jonathan Anderson has nothing left to prove, but he continues to amaze us with every collection he creates. The thing with Anderson seems simple; he does not produce or even design, he creates. With every collection for Loewe, he manages to bring us a step closer to himself.
For next fall, we see surprisingly more color then for the previous season. Once again, we see oversized, flared pants with large dresses and coats. The way Anderson drapes his garments combined with the choice of fabric, gives the looks an awkward flow that defines the silhouette. One that continues to intrigue.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Angela Missoni has designed a collection that is a combination of eighties and late nineties vibes. Mismatched prints give us a fresh perspective on Missoni, and what it can be as a brand. Unlike all the black collections we’ve seen the past few weeks, Missoni gives us color for fall. It’s celebrating knitwear and the endless possibilities of it.
Fendi at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week July 2015
After having collaborated for fifty years, Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld have announced their debut together at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Next July, Fendi will combine its luxurious and distinctive design with their craftsmanship to create the Haute Fourrure collection. Like always, Fendi will be experimenting with fur, and taking it to a different level again.
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The focus of Max Mara’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection wasn’t a highly unexpected choice. Coats were in the center of attention as models were protecting their bodies with the Max Mara classic: the one and only camel coat.
The rest of the collection contained smart business attire, made for the woman who juggles so many balls at once that we can’t even count them. She runs a company, has a loving family, keeps up with all her friends and continues to finish these side projects we don’t even remember she ever started. She’s a modern woman with a classic taste, one that Max Mara has figured out completely.
A new surprise was seeing the bomber-like jackets and jumpers in quilted satin at the end of the show. Combined with long pencil skirts and fine wool this contemporary look became another timeless ensemble.
Burberry Prorsum at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Every season, Christopher Bailey manages to give the Burberry classic a completely new life. For Fall/Winter 2015, he –like many other designers- decided to jump back fifty years to create a collection that was both lavish and engaging.
Mirrors, fringes and the use of suede referred to Woodstock-esque times. Other bohemian elements such as crochet and folklore-inspired prints also dominated the ensembles. Even though the colors and prints were bold, each and every piece seemed to be timeless.
The trench coat was portrayed in various ways, showing its power as an adaptable classic. Combined with over-the-knee boots in patchwork suede, this look is one that will not disappoint.
No. 21 at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
For Fall/Winter 2015, No. 21 tells us a modern fairytale. It takes us into a world of paradise, where serenity and comfort are key. Soft pastels and leafy prints make us want to jump right into the rabbit hole. Details such as black lace gloves under pink chiffon dresses show how subtlety can make the difference.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the creative director behind No. 21, can be seen as a master of the art of layering. Different textures and the finest materials are combined to create perfectly balanced looks. Delicate chiffon, warm wool, marvelous fur and subtle lace show his feel for quality and perfect finish.
The collection seems to bring an ode to the soft side of womanhood, something we’ve seen less of for next fall. Kindness and purity are tangled together in the fantasy that Dell’Acqua portrays.
Into the Mind of Ghesquière
Lately, there have been many different ways of presenting collections, but Nicolas Ghesquière is once again taking things to another level. He brings his spring 2015 women’s ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton to Los Angeles, where they opened a multi-room exhibit. In the gallery, located in the heart of Hollywood, Louis Vuitton takes you on a journey through Ghesquière’s creative process and shows you his timeless inspirations. Series 2 makes you think differently about fashion, shows the essence of Louis Vuitton and allows you to travel through the mind of this master.
Diesel Black Gold at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Andreas Melbostad is not the only designer who chose black as the main subject for his fall 2015 collection, but he sure is the one who managed to make black seem so colorful. High contrasts in masculinity and extreme femininity make each and every single garment in this collection effortlessly sexy, while being slightly intimidating at the same time. Short, flappy skirts are combined with oversized men’s jackets made out of wool. Lace details make the items seem softer and daintier, while belts and metal buckles hint at bondage.
Diesel launches Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign with #DieselHigh
Since he took to the helm nearly two years ago, Nicola Formichetti has commanded quite a change in the tides for Diesel, leading with the radical #DieselReboot, and arriving now at #DieselHigh.
Launching with the SS15 campaign, #DieselHigh celebrates optimism, love and a soul set on living life to the full. Dependably breaking barriers, Formichetti’s gleeful vision is surprisingly subversive, as smiling faces were shot by the lens of a typically insouciant Nick Knight.
Spontaneous and spirited, models such as Winne Harlow and Charlotte Free vault out of frame, jumping and laughing in a dizzying patchwork of Diesel denim. Photographic evidence, if ever it was needed: Diesel is most certainly destined for higher things.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Dior Homme may well have fetishized the standard suit this season, but little about the collection was average. For a start, van Assche’s blending of black tie and baseball cap, each emblazoned by a flagrant floral badge corsage. Arid leather parkas were thrown on top of spotless suits, taking the starch out of pristine tailoring, while long coats were drawn-out to the ankles, teetering above vaulted virgin trainers.
Chambray denim jackets – so clean and efficient – slipped under the waistbands of rubbery leather sweatpants, slender in cut, yet long enough to buckle at the ankles. Navy chalk stripe suits bagged around slight bodies, single breasted and boxy – the apple of the eighties’ businessman’s eye – topped off by the tallying of a stubby round-edged briefcase. Palette maintained a monochrome uniform, save the electric blue flash of a thermo-finished zip cardigan, or the inverted watercolour prints playing out across felted wools in a woozy hit of lead grey and banana yellow. Tailored as it so seemed, van Assche’s excellence was all in the undoing – destructing all meaning, yet not a thread out of place.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
It was a trippy hit of tinsely lurex, pimp coats and puddled psych prints this season at Maison Margiela – an exercise in ritzy decadence for lanky outsiders.
Waxy leathers took on redolent hues, cloaking shearling and trench coats in murky plums and teals, trimmed with delightfully dated salmon-pink teddy bear wool collars. When they weren’t garish and glossy, painted leathers were put to use as patchwork, their tattered patinas stitched to hessian toiles and engineered into blazers and flared pants.
Mauve marbled with olive green to craft slender cashmere crew-necks, tucked into swaying oxford bags and finished with a gentler interpretation of the Chelsea boot. Drainpipes took on the sheen of supple skins, paired with chunky Nordic knits for a mawkish insouciance. Meanwhile, cardigans and skin-tight sweaters were striped in frizzy lurex, unashamedly ostentatious with their sweet-wrapper sensibility.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Anyone who doubts that plainness can be plush has not yet seen Haider Ackermann’s offering for FW15. Silhouette was strictly stripped-back, any extras pared-down, leaving the remains of a very opulent sartorial skeleton.
Peachy velvets gleamed in redolent hues – teals and burnt oranges against full-bodied Beaujolais; none was safe from its sumptuous pile, skinny pant suits and longline blazers, crew neck sweaters and opulent bombers. Supple leather pants rumpled at the ankles, cinched at the waist by a rubbery black biker jacket and topped by a chunky fisherman knit. Fringed scarves, meanwhile, tied the look to debonair decadence, draped over a leopard skin coat or satin-lined smoking jacket. All the while tattered tank tops and beanies saved the collection from timeworn pastiche – a contrast that was as resolutely modern as it was irresistibly charming.
Malaikaraiss at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Boy meets girl this season at Malaikaraiss, and under the cult credibility of Reality Bites, the collection’s core point of reference.
In-line with inspiration, the finished product was suitably cool, ruffled layers decked in passive buff tones, texture instrumental to the sense of brooding depth. Ribbed polo necks peeped from under sleeveless silk dresses, hues turned down to a mellow saturation, save for the unctuous burst of a mustard heel. Color was rationed, meaning when it emerged, it was all the more ripe and redolent for its restriction, in deep plummy wines, ochre and cerise. Mensy shirts and safari jackets were cloaked over broad-line culottes and partnered with bleach-white cowboy boots, their lack of elaboration almost sterile, yet effortlessly avant-garde. As the premise so specified, the collection was rife with contradictions; slim cuts appeared beguilingly baggy, high-necks seemed slack, all the while asymmetric hems tailed off from the formality normally dictated by silk – not least when paired with lightly-studded leggings. Double-denim brought a touch of the teen, but somewhat more erudite in its regulation wash, brilliantly bland in sparseness and symmetry. If reality bites, there’s a delightful diversion to be found in Malaikaraiss.
Sopopular at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Sopopular had clearly been mixing with the wrong crowd this season, bearing all the markers of the tough tribe with the bullet-hole knits and bomber jackets in a plethora of panther-black leather.
Three-quarter length pants in felted wool crumpled up at the midriff, waistbands folding over like neat paper bags. Crew neck sweaters were glossed in a sable sharkskin sheen or decked in chunky rope, each an understated elaboration, yet resounding in their effect.
Winning friends through dominion? Sopopular will show you how.
Narrow collar shirts emerged in all-over ebony leather, while cropped tracksuit bottoms assumed similarly supple skins. Macintosh raincoats and capes were sapped of all pigment, their parchment-paper translucence layered over an ink-black uniform, making way for fuzzy plush dressing-gown coats, knotted nonchalantly at the middle.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Harder. Better. Faster. Plein-er? Who’s to say that a designer can’t outdo themselves and add extra, extra oomph to an already over-charged aesthetic? Because, believe it or not, that’s exactly what German-born glitz and glamour designer Philipp Plein has accomplished for his latest menswear effort, showcased in the beautiful Milan.
For starters, to call it a show would be a gross understatement; the FW15 spectacle was nothing short of a, well, spectacle. #PLEINWARRIORS took over a cage-like rostrum, clad in lavish sportswear-esque garb. Bedazzled tiger heads found their way onto luxe jerseys. Coated onyx studs adorned smooth leather biker jackets - and pretty much everything else in sight. There was even a devil-horned motorcycle helmet. Is Plein the bad boy of fashion? Sure, but then again, it really does suit him.
The FW15 show oozed the kind of bravado and over-the-top-ness that only Plein is capable of pulling off sizzlingly. Speaking of which, the one and only Snoop Dogg delivered a two-part surprise performance, while party queen extraordinaire Paris Hilton cheered on from her front-row seat. With friends like that, you simply can’t lose.
Sibling at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Overkill is a fallacy. There are times when the evidence is conclusively clear, such are the virtues of an all-pink palette. At least Sibling didn’t surrender to restraint this AW15 – and so much the better for it.
Firstly, the hue – a lurid top-shelf affair – so gleefully distasteful. Its use was indiscriminate, raking a gaudy fuchsia through black and white barcode stripes to bear a raucous rendition of a schoolboy blazer. The entire collection, as it happens, was a testimony to old English school days, and as such, cardigans and scarves dripped with delightfully garish lines, clashing with Argyle golf sweaters and hockey socks – underneath, the plain but still audacious flamingo pink shirt and tie, adding unctuous depth in pattern’s wake.
A one-colour binge is not without its idiosyncrasies, as was proved when the spice pink was snatched back to a tedious beige – a witty trompe-l’oeil of a fabric, feigning the guise of a crumpled paper bag to forge kraftpaper short-suits and biker jackets. But even those conscious of its disguise were almost tricked by its next prank, as a quick flash of the lining will testify; turn over the woefully-bland brown paper, and the highlighter-pink persists.
Coats were suitably and shamelessly synthetic, as full-blown swollen yeti pelts or as fuzzy fluro edging to a chunky leather suit. Knitwear, being the Sibling signature, quite rightly stole the show, offensively threadbare and monstrously oversized; on their best behaviour they bore Billy Bunter checkerboards, and on their worst, ripped to shreds – but slashes were more chivalrous than boorish or tatty, like neat round peep-holes to burrowed layers. Then there were the teddy bears, naïve knitted mascots great and small.
Discipline is overrated – it’s worth breaking the rules to be pretty in pink.
Burberry at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
FW15 and Burberry’s tour of the quintessential Englishman continues, this time via the Spice Route. Khaki kaftans and batik scarves coddled – colossal cloaks of fringed alpaca. Tapered pants arrived in sensible tones, almost utilitarian in earthen, practical wools. Paired with paisley shirts in shrill saffron pigments, the look called to mind the New Age pilgrim – 1969, fresh off the hippie trail – all Afghan coats and John Lennon glasses.
And this nomad wore his travels on his sleeve, quite literally – a heady mix of Mughal florals and mirrored Banjara sacks. Souvenir-styling gave the game away, printed shirts starched and buttoned up to the collar, stiff as a board beneath oxford blazers. But it was the tactility that told of a tourist’s eye, as though textures had been plucked straight from the traveller’s living room, eclectic as an opium den in fuzzy carpet fur and imitation leopard, cloistering chubby coats in sateen cinnamon and teal. Persian rug prints found their way under plush velvet smoking jackets, while that undying classic – the eternal trench – received a renovation, clad in a grid of teal tiles. Who knew Burberry was so bohemian?
BOTTEGA VENETA x Casa BRUTUS: Preserving Japan’s Modern Relics
Craftsmanship has long laced the lifeblood of Bottega Veneta. Such devotion to artistry drives the object of their latest venture; the preservation of Japan’s Modern Architecture.
In partnership with Japan’s leading architecture and interior design magazine, Casa BRUTUS, Bottega Veneta is embarking on an initiative to raise awareness of Japan’s iconic Modern buildings – artefacts of a national heritage and whose legacy, over recent years, has come increasingly under threat.
While much of Japan’s post-war landscape has been ravaged by earthquake resistance issues or economic forces, it is in the run-up to Tokyo’s 2020 Olympic Games that poses the biggest threat to the city’s Modern relics and cultural landmarks.
The initiative was launched last month with a symposium supported by Bottega Veneta, held at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which instigated a critical dialogue between leading architect and developers, as to Japan’s endangered architecture. The collaboration continues with the release of the Casa BRUTUS January 2015 issue and exclusive online content, which have been curated in conjunction with Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director, Tomas Maier, as a special contributor.
Valentino New York Flagship Celebration
On 10 December, 2014, the House of Valentino will celebrate the recent opening of its new Fifth Avenue flagship store. The evening will see the presentation of an exclusive Haute Couture capsule collection, created especially for the event by Valentino’s Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The magnificent 20,000 square foot store, conceptualised by the brand’s Creative Directors in collaboration with ‘David Chipperfield Architects’, houses women’s ready-to-wear and accessories as well as the complete men’s collection. A special area is dedicated to Denim Made to Measure.
Opened in August 2014, the Fifth Avenue location is the second Valentino boutique in the Unites States to carry the men’s offering.
Rouge Absolute by Valentino X Cire Trudon
Just in time for the festive season, Valentino's Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have introduced 'Rouge Absolute', a new scented candle created in collaboration with Cire Trudon, a legendary candle manufacturer established in 1643. The candle, available in select Valentino stores, is presented in a red glass jar, encapsulating the House of Valentino's sophisticated essence, and exudes a wonderful scent defined by geranium and jasmine, with accents of leather, patchouli, amber and balsam fir.
'Rouge Absolute' is made from biodegradable, vegetable origin wax and lasts from 55 to 65 hours.
WUNDERKIND Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Adopting a sophisticated aesthetic with an eccentric edge, the WUNDERKIND Fall/ Winter 2014 campaign interprets the quirky yet cool style of the collection.
Depicting model Sara Sperling against an intriguing painting filled artistic studio backdrop, the campaign is exciting yet chic as it exhibits a lively and elegant theme.
Describing Sara Sperling’s role in the campaign, art director Wolfgang Joop declares "In the chaos between arrival and departure she retains her sovereignty. She moves effortlessly between opulence and nonchalance and embodies the strong and confident woman WUNDERKIND stands for."
Akris Pre Fall 2014
A bold colour palette and slick silhouettes composed the Akris Pre Fall 2014 collection with distinct prints, chic suits and shapely jackets.
Inspired by the 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde, the collection fuses stylish sophistication with cool elegance to create a slick and sleek amalgamation. High waist trousers paired with smart shirts, nude heels and berets exuded cultivated style while sharp leather jackets added a contemporary aesthetic.
Creative director Albert Kriemler embodied the iconic style of actress Faye Dunaway through red, white and black prints producing a 'sleek glamour' style and a strong disposition.
Sissi Goetze at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Menswear has been given more and more of a platform at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. One of the stand-out designers in this respect is Sissi Goetze. Her SS15 showcase is marked by muted colors, structured menswear cuts and an array of prints. Hibiscus prints in rusty shades of brown brought intrigue to tailored slacks. Goetze matched those with crisp white button downs and gray shirts. Sartorial sportiness shone through in her mix of relaxed jackets and knee length shorts– the perfect outfit for the grown-up urban man.
On the upper body, Goetze sees men wear layers upon layers for SS15, adding surprising combinations to the usually bland summer uniform. Her entire collection is a continuation of seasons past, as the designer does not believe in the quick fluctuation of fashion, but rather in a stylish and sustainable wardrobe. Her pieces for SS15 are exactly those coveted items one has to have in his closet for season to come.
Sandro Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Capturing "two young artists in their element" the Sandro Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign epitomizes dark and stylish elegance.
Starring model Edie Campaign in her third collaboration with Sandro, the womenswear is chic and casual yet sophisticated. The menswear, modelled by Elliot Vulliod comprises of sleek and laid back proportions and silhouettes, combining the relaxed with the cosmopolitan.
The campaign, shot by photographer Karim Sadli will appear in the September issues of magazines.
Laurèl at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Elisabeth Schwaiger was obviously in the mood for a sun-downer when designing Laurèl's SS15 collection. Tropical prints, tie-dye, fringe, crochet and ethno appliqué are the codes by which the quintessential hippie look goes by, and strutted down the runway here. In tried and tested Laurèl fashion, designs didn't go overboard, making sure that the holiday vibe may carry over to the office during the glimmering summer months. Pant suits, leather pants and jumpers for work, mini and maxi dresses as well as kaftans for play are the staples of this SS15 showcase. Vibrant turquoise, azure and grass green furthered the summer holiday feel of Schwaiger's versatile and wearable SS15 collection.
Aleks Kurkowski at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Polish-German designer Aleks Kurkowski showcased a collection inspired by architecture, geometrical shapes and adoration for the insatiable color black. The result is high-end mens and womenswear, which combines straight forward, avant-garde design and a deep-rooted belief in sustainability. For a label that has only been founded back in 2012, Aleks Kurkowski has already made a name for itself as being progressive and independent from mainstream trends. The designer's sustainable and ecologically responsible approach to the fast paced world of fashion shines through in the use of natural organic materials.
And in some ways it carries over to the label's color of choice for SS15, as black is an eternally fashionable (non-)color that will withstand the test of time. Kurkowski's edgy designs were somewhat of a throwback to 90s daredevil TV series with tough designs primarily showing leather appliqué, metal zippers and unfinished hems here and there, paired with high-fashion attention to detail. Architecture, as a focal point of her inspiration, shines through in the masculine, almost architectural designs. Staples for SS15 are ankle length pants and coats – all in all a far cry from the usual sundress and a refreshing, badass approach to staying ‘cool’ all year round.
Michael Sontag at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Soft tunes by Glass Animals were the perfect backdrop for Michael Sontag’s SS15 showcase. His buoyant girl strutted down a runway designed by artist Caroline Bayer, who had a mayor influence on Sontag’s collection sportive, elegant silhouettes for SS15. Once again Sontag stuck to his fuzz free, no-nonsense styles cut from cotton and jersey, but put a little twist on the styles he’s come to be known for. Under Bayer’s influence he incorporated a notion of the urban structures of facades resulting in a fresh, contemporary straight shape.
Unfinished hems, stretch fabrics and alluring bare calves, shoulders and backs playfully toyed with the appeal of the female form and Sontag’s masterful grasp of the relationship fashion-body-space. His trademark draping and flowing fabrics only added to the light and soft sex appeal of his designs which came down the Berlin Fashion Week runway in shades of delicate lilac, powerful yellow, and sensual red as well as understated and eternal black. Even the hottest summer can be cool with this collection of beautiful, not overtly, in-your-face-sexy styles.
BRACHMANN at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
It’s a minimalist attitude that the BRACHMANN Spring/Summer 2015 collection conveys. Walter Gropius and the Bauhaus style served as an inspiration for the architectural collection. Classic suits, well-fitted coats and shirts, in different shades of grey, dark blue, black, brown and bordeaux are versatile and work in any combination with the knee long shorts, guaranteeing a simple, but smooth look. Polo shirts with short or rolled up sleeves add a casual and relaxed feel. An interesting detail are the cut off collars, that make for a twist in the traditional menswear, such as the pleats at the back of trousers that make their front look wider.
Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Fall 2014
Exploring and contrasting shapes, patterns and textures, the Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal collection Fall 2014 Haute Couture show embodied elegant eccentricity. Models wore transparent polka dot decorated face masks as they walked the runway in heavily patterned shirts, asymmetrically cut dresses and sheer polka dot skirts. Unique and striking patterned patchwork squares made up floor length straight dresses and knee length, flat white boots and long, above the elbow white gloves created an air of elegance.
CHANEL Haute Couture Fall 2014
Presenting an amalgamation of embellishments, texture and patterns, the CHANEL Fall 2014 Haute Couture show fused classic CHANEL sharp silhouettes with intricate details, producing an emaculate aesthetic. Sandals with ballet style ribbons were the footwear of choice, providing an easy way to walk in the glitter decorated suits, well - tailored, refined coats and exquisitely embroidered dresses. Stunning jewels adorned elegant sweaters and dresses and exploratory pieces were displayed through intriguing embellishments and innovative shapes.
PHILIPP PLEIN Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Entitled 'My American Dream', the PHILIPP PLEIN Fall/Winter 2014 campaign presents the dynamic creations exhibited in his Fall/Winter 2014 Milan fashion show.
A cowgirl style fused with rock and roll influences formulated the Milan show with outfits heavily embellished with gold studs, stylish all black leather pieces, extravagant fur and bold glitter.
Incorporating footage from the show including images shot live during the event as well as backstage, the campaign captures the vivacious spirit of the collection and translates the thrill of the show onto captivating still images.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an chic mix of monochrome, the Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2015 Menswear collection provided a contemporary and casual compilation. Relaxed silhouettes accompanied by loose material resulted in a nonchalant look whilst long, sleek blazers exhibited refinement. The clothing was athletic yet sophisticated with easy going styling and a simplistic colour palette adding to the laid back ambience.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Featuring models Iselin Steiro and Rogier Bosschaart, the Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2014 campaign epitomizes minimalism with entirely black and white images shot against a simplistic and subtle background.
Emulating the refined sophistication key to the Jil Sander aesthetic, the campaign, shot by photographer Karim Sadli captures effective lighting and the sharp silhouettes of the garments next to a plain backdrop allowing the clothes to speak for themselves.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Jean-François José
Adhering to a demure colour palette of light gray and beige with specks of orange, navy blue and mustard yellow, the Hermès Spring 2015 Menswear collection was causal and cool, consisting of soft cardigans, casual jackets and slim trousers. Signature, distinct Hermès prints and patterns were decorated onto shorts, trousers and skirts and worn with slip on sandals and sneakers. Brightly coloured neck scarfs added vividness into the collection and croc jackets provided nonchalant luxury.
Zegna Couture by Stefano Pilati at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Applying a modern aesthetic to formal menswear, Stefano Pilati's Spring 2015 collection for Zegna Couture incorporated relaxed lines with sleek tailoring to produce a refreshingly contemporary collection. Loose fitting garments were worn with chic brogues and sneakers and colourful shirts were styled with kerchiefs and structured blazers, resulting in a striking and classy amalgamation.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Rock and roll became colorful, bold and exciting at the Haider Ackermann Spring 2015 Menswear show. It was grungy, edgy and overlylayered whilst remaining sleek and refined. Oversized scarfs were effortlessly wrapped around necks and experimental fabrics including patent black, gold velvet and patterned silk were used. Outfits were effectively created, giving a thrown together look and almost over styled yet undeniably chic. Not following rules, Ackermann mismatched patterns and prints in an impressive amalgamation.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Producing a polished, rock and roll aesthetic, the Diesel Black Gold Spring 2015 Menswear show cleaned up an edgy and rugged style by applying a skinny design to black jeans, relaxed t - shirts and sharp blazers. Exquisite and artistic printed black leather motorcycle jackets served as statement pieces and were worn with skinny trousers and leather boots. Zip up turtle necks oozed sophistication and zip decorated jeans provided a distinct edge.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Colour was effectively clashed and blocked at the Fendi 2015 Menswear show. Sharp and slick with a quirky edge, the collection kept a slick and refined silhouette whilst experimenting with colour, shape and texture. Stone washed denim was worn with beige, neon brights were mismatched with demure colours and black mesh was used on gilet's and worn over blazers. The combination was simple yet exciting and fused styles in a creative amalgamation.
Tod's at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Applying a laiback approach to classic menswear, the Tod's 2015 Menswear show was casual, clean and cool. Luxurious, dark navy blue served as a key colour and was incorporated onto sleek suits worn with elegant, leather loafers. Amongst the sophistication, a more casual aesthetic was offered through blue and white jeans. Suede was a popular material, providing the fabric for soft blazers and jeans. Detaching itself from the traditional and conservative, the collection provided something refreshing and contemporary without loosing the refinement.
Costume National at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Refined and sophisticated in a demure and bright colour palette was showcased at the Costume National runway during men’s fashion week in Milan. The collection consisted of an array of suits ranging from all patent leather pieces to bold orange and purple to pin stripes. Exuding laid back rock and roll, the clothing was effortlessly slick; neckerchiefs and tightly fitted trousers oozed cultivated style while the strikingly bright purples, oranges and blues adhered to a youthful and loud aesthetic.
Trussardi at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A casual take on the traditional suit was presented at the Trussardi showcase. Classic blazers were replaced by cool bomber jackets, pinstripe suits were paired with leather flat form sandals and modern and stylish double denim was embraced. Materials and patterns were experimented with; patent black leather was used on loose fitting trousers and bold black, red and white brushstroke prints were emblazoned onto straight trousers. The outcome was contemporary yet cultivated.
Missoni at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Adopting tribal prints and patterns, the Missoni Spring 2015 menswear collection presented a cool and casual aesthetic. Colours were clashed and knitted materials were decorated with colourful and intriguing stripes. Bare chested models walked down the runway clothed in patterned gilets, shorts and sandals and striped, matching blazers and trousers were worn with relaxed, soft cream brogues. The collection exhibited a vibrant and lively way to sport casualwear.
Brioni opens Flagship in Milan
Italian luxury menswear couture house Brioni has opened their largest Flagship in Milan located in the city’s luxury shopping area. Conceived by Creative Director Brendan Mullane, the 1,200 square meter flagship spans across three floors and comprises of formalwear, leisurewear, accessories, eyewear, textiles and footwear.
Sophisticated and refined, the store is a completely renovated historical palazzo and contains plenty of natural light with the entrance opening into a large foyer. The first floor houses leisurewear and the second floor hosts an expansive VIP room where visitors can find time to relax. Six full-time tailors will be present in the flagship, offering an exclusive service to clients and guaranteeing an exquisite experience. Walls, ceilings, floors, tables and chairs are upholstered in a luxurious dark blue suit fabric and a select choice of prized materials are in elegant beiges, taupes and browns.
With the flagship opening on June 19th 2014, the inauguration will take place on Saturday 21st and consist of a structural light installation in collaboration with Greek artist Michael Anastassiade entitled ‘Blue Hour’. The installation will be displayed until July 12th.
London Collections: Men Day 1
As London Fashion Week’s quieter, calmer and all together more laid back alternative, London Collections: Men commenced with catwalks from Lou Dalton, Lee Roach and Agi & Sam and presentations from Jonathan Saunders, Nicholas Kirkwood and DKNY MEN.
Centered at the prestigious Hospital Club in Covent Garden, the event hosted established as well as upcoming menswear design talent in an exciting combination of runways, showcases and parties. Luxury mens fashion designer Lou Dalton presented a well-tailored and sleek collection with a contemporary and youthful twist at one of the first catwalks of the day. In a cool and summery colour palette of bright whites, powder pinks, blue and silver, the collection comprised of Dalton’s signature attention to detail on simple yet distinct patterns and shapes.
An expansion on his usual minimalism was showcased at the Lee Roach show. Roach offered a relaxed and modish alternative to the traditional suit by pairing logo printed t – shirts with matching blazers and straight trousers and included mesh vests and military references through khaki and circle and stripe emblems. The simple colours contrasted with the experimental layering to produce a sleek yet effortlessly cool aesthetic.
Scottish born designer Jonathan Saunders presented a chic and bright collection incorporating simplistic patterns and clean designs in a distinctive array of colours. As an edgy yet sleek amalgamation of stripes, colour blocking and layering, the collection presented electrifyingly bright yellows accompanied by deep cool blues and galactic silvers. Smart and edgy metallic suits and light, breathable jackets were the standouts amongst sharp and definitive ensembles.
Wrapping up the catwalks of the day, Agi & Sam fused masculinity with femininity in an exciting blend of shapely silhouettes, loose fitting garments and intriguing patterns printed onto two pieces and jackets. Throwing tradition out of the window, the innovative design duo applied an original style pairing knee length socks with sandals, smart pleated trousers and original prints resulting in a strong yet relaxed outcome.
Day one did not disappoint and launched another year of exhilarating Mens fashion.
BOSS Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Under the artistic direction of Jason Wu, the BOSS Fall/ Winter 2014 campaign captures sophistication and refinement for both women and men.
Establishing a contemporary look for the BOSS brand, the campaign styled by Joe McKenna and shot by Inez and Vinoodh presents BOSS’s traditional tailoring in a modern fashion. The face of the womenswear, model Edie Campbell embodies a strong, powerful femininity in the campaign while actor Scott Eastwood is formal yet modern in BOSS’s timeless and cosmopolitan menswear.
As his first campaign for BOSS, Jason Wu applied a “a fresh, different approach" and expresses how the campaign “not only shows the BOSS clothes, but evokes the BOSS lifestyle."
The dreamlike dimension of PHILIPP PLEIN
PHILIPP PLEIN’s pre fall 2014 collection fuses dreamlike patterns with multicolour photographic collages to create unique designs that are illustrated onto biker jackets, dresses, bags and shoes.
Depicting a dreamy vision, the prints comprise of the jaws of a tiger, a surreal Taj Mahal, images of elephants in the desert and jewelled panthers. Detailed and creative, the kaleidoscopic prints are both intriguing and strikingly stylish, incorporating architecture, nature and far away destinations in a whimsical yet vivid amalgamation.
Prada opens up a new store in Vienna
Created inside a prestigious and historical building, the new Prada store in Vienna hosts women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories and shoe collections.
Black and white-chequered marble floor, green fabric- clad walls and high furniture decorates the 1430 square-metre store that is extended over two floors. The chic new space designed by architect Roberto Baciocchi is both elegant and feminine and provides a leisurely and luxurious shopping experience.
With large, enticing windows on the outside and a sleek, immaculate design on the inside, the exquisite new store imitates Prada’s modern aesthetic and slick style. The store opened on 19th May 2014
Bally Fall/Winter 2014
Casual sophistication is at the core of Bally’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection with classic lines and sharp tailoring being combined with laidback yet edgy styling.
The womenswear is both formal and easy-going comprising of pin striped flared suit trousers paired with casual trainers and tailored overcoats, beanies and thick turtle neck sweaters. Ideal for the workplace, the long body fitting pencil skirts and shirts are perfect for the cosmopolitan woman and the cool, leather biker jackets add a necessary hip aesthetic.
With an impressive range of accessories, the latest Bally collection provides endless ways to add sleek vibrancy to your wardrobe. From croc and snakeskin print bags to a range of ankle boots, low heels, brogues and knee length boots in a variety of colours, the accessories effortlessly compliment the clothing.
Equally classy, the menswear offers a variety of refined clothing ranging from dapper coats, suit trousers and blazers to dynamic multi coloured trainers, thick leather fur lined biker jackets and oversize leather backpacks.
The collection fuses elegance with edginess, making it easy for Bally to stylishly transport us into the Fall/Winter season.
Sisley Store in Mitte
Depicting youth and freedom, the new Sisley concept store opened in Mitte, Berlin on 27th February 2014.
Located in the prestigious Mitte district in the centre of Berlin, the store allows visitors to have a unique and stimulating shopping experience as the store displays “its own distinctive nature and its own unique features”. The store’s layout is inspired by the film The Dreamers by Bernardo Bertolucci and translates this into a dreamlike, sophisticated and youthful décor.
Inside this new concept, visitors will find themselves enter an intriguing atmosphere consisting of peeled walls, black and white chequer patterned floors and cognac chandeliers. Fusing the sleek with the bohemian, the store displays chic body hugging, colour-block dresses, stylish trench coats and modernist jumpsuits as well as artistic maxi skirts, long muslin dresses and silk tops.
Situated at 12 Neue Schönauser Strasse, the exciting new store embodies the brands playful yet chic aesthetic and transforms shopping into an interactive, sensorial experience.
The GUESS Hotel Pool Party @ Coachella
Fun California based music festival Coachella took place from the 11th April to the 13th and hosted an eclectic mix of live performances from artists such as Disclosure, Pharrell, Lana Del Rey, Skrillex and MGMT.
Amongst this exciting musical sphere, all-American fashion brand GUESS presented the GUESS Hotel Pool Party spread over two days and consisting of cocktails by the pool, a GUESS ping pong table and the sounds of DJ’s Lindsay Luv, Jamieson Hill and Dexter Love. Celebrities enjoying the care-free summer atmosphere included Hannah Simone, Whitney Port and actor Ryan Kwanten.
On day two of the party, the grand opening of the annual GUESS Hotel was opened by music from musician Alex Merrell dressed in Marciano and offered delicious food and tasty drinks as well as performances by Izzy Lawrence and Whitney Fierce. Celebrating the early Summer with GUESS at Coachella, the party was enjoyed by Josh Henderson, Coachella headlining band Arcade Fire and Jamie Chung.
G-Star Raw Opens First Women's Store in Germany
Denim specialist fashion brand G – Star Raw have created a unique retail concept, G – Star Women, a new store entirely dedicated to womenswear on Schäfflerstrasse in Munich, Germany. Situated over 225 m2, the impressive and specially designed store has a minimalist aesthetic and the ground floor consists exclusively of denim in various fits and styles to ensure that every woman is able to find her “perfect piece”.
On the second floor, customers are invited to seek stylish accompaniments to their perfectly fitted jeans in a “comfortable” and “relaxed” carefully designed fitting zone. Aiming to exemplify “G-Star design philosophies in product engineering and denim craftsmanship”, the Munich store consists of appealing attributes including a striking full height mirror and the aforementioned staircase to enhance the in store shopping experience and environment for the female consumer.
The female only store which is located in the bustling city center opens on 16th April 2014 and aims to utilize the notable G –Star DNA to provide a tailored, simple and stylish shopping experience for women.
Karl Lagerfeld London boutique opening
Fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld has finally got around to cementing his iconic fashion creations in a new territory. The store, which exhibits a largely black and white minimal aesthetic is a homage to the designer with his famous head motif decorated onto an array of items and apparel has opened in London’s uber cool and classy Regent Street.
With classic Lagerfeld pieces available such as black sunglasses, fingerless gloves and a stiff white collar, the new flagship epitomises Karl’s undeniable influence and power in the fashion industry and innovative approach to store design. The just opened store is his biggest outlet in Europe and will contain interactive photo booths allowing shoppers to take pictures of themselves while trying on clothes, it will also have a digital guest book and iPad mini’s displaying full collections.
It seems that the store not only offers the latest Lagerfeld creations but an opportunity to buy into the designer’s archetypal image with iPhone cases, toy dolls and pillows all with Karl’s famous face planted onto them. Upon opening, Lagerfeld arrived in London and celebrated the flagships’ launch with British fashion model and friend Cara Delevingne. We expect this fuse of mainstream fashion and high end luxury to be an instant hit.
Hogan Spring / Summer 2014
Spring has indeed sprung and with Hogan’s Spring Summer 2014 collection being shot in the picturesque and romantic city of Venice it has sprung particularly attractively this year. The uber casual and effortlessly chic collection comprises of light, fitted jackets, jeans and sneakers for laidback daywear and sexy heeled sandals, black leather and metallic clutches to bring on the night.
All modelled by the stunning Constance Jablonski who describes the clothes as “a selection of easy-chic pieces” in a diary style memoir written to support the campaign, the pieces depict an ideal spring holiday and combine comfort with style. In her memoir Jablonski illustrates her fast paced life full of travel and inspiration and always carries a compilation of “little jackets, skinny pants and my Hogan H222 that stay with me 24 hours a day”.
The menswear collection is modelled by Fifty Shades of Grey actor Jamie Dornan and continues in the theme of cool and easy, relaxing on a boat day attire to sleek, sophisticated yet relaxed pieces for the night. Consisting of slim fitting trousers, light blazers and stylish brogues, the collection provides clothing that is slick, effortlessly cool and embodies the carefree spirit of spring.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Vivienne Westwood invited us into her vivid imagination and world of eclectic inspirations during her FW14 show. Referencing a capacious variety of influences, styles and cultures, the collection mismatched colours and patterns, exhibited bizarre blue face paint and clashed textures. We were given extravagance through fluffy, shapely, large overcoats and exaggerated top hats, it was spectacular! Possibly the most inventive designs came from the sheer, shoulder padded, turtle neck wedding dress and martial arts style wrap jacket paired with loose fitting trousers, boots and Red war face paint. Vivienne gathered her vast sources of influencers and compiled into a outlandish yet amazing collection.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Fur was the material of choice at Alexander McQueen’s deeply dark and mysterious FW14 show. Adhering to the inspiration of ‘wild beauty’ the show was set in a seemingly derelict and deserted garden and showcased large jet black oversize sweaters and coats with fur detailing around the edges. Extravagant all fur hooded coats with matching boots and black and white long fur coats were displayed on models with doll like white painted faces. The show finalized with a compilation of straight textured figure hugging dresses that scraped the floor, it was dramatic yet demure.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
All of the drama and theatrics you could wish for were at Yohji Yamamoto’s fairy-tale esque FW14 show. Bright and flamboyant makeup was accompanied by extremely stylistic hairstyles and duvet like large black overcoats whilst bright and vibrant graphics were painted onto all black pieces. These experimental and unique graphic designs continued with large florals and heavily layered black pieces added a lavish sophistication and weighed down the exaggerated theme of the show. It exposed us to a more bizarre and outlandish winter wardrobe.
KENZO at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Varying patterns and colours clashed at KENZO FW14. A creative approach to layering was seen through corsets worn over tops, wide structured skirts worn over patterned suits and straight short skirts worn over trousers. Classic geometric Kenzo prints were worn alongside inventive padded black suits and a long padded black coat. The collection was wearable whilst adding a certain energy to a wardrobe.
Isabel Marant at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Isabel Marant FW14 show felt comfortable yet stylish and chic. The clothes consisted of different shades of army green, contrasted with the laidback, largely loose fitting material with a strong, militant power. Relaxed knits were paired with structured overcoats to add a sleek sharpness and a hint of dark glitter thrown onto jackets, skirts and tops gave a certain and very much needed perzaz. The show illustrated a relaxed army girl while still adhering to a high fashion look.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A bright pop of colour provided an exciting accompaniment to a fall/winter aesthetic during Dries van Noten’s Paris fashion week show. Clashing geometric patterns highlighted the designer’s innovative approach to using prints and sportswear references alongside bright floral prints provided a diverse winter wardrobe. Transcending into a darker colour palette, the show concluded with luxe metallic striped pieces, luscious black fur and space girl style sparkling silver.
Day 1: Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Delicate pastels, structured silhouettes and snakeskin shoes were at the forefront of the Gucci FW ’14 show during Milan Fashion Week. The show displayed an array of uniquely cut dresses and luxurious fur coats in a colour palette that transcended from playful pastels to deep burgundies. Metallic silver details embellished deep black dresses and magnificent knee high snakeskin print patent boots.
Day 6: Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glitzy glamour met sleek style at the Dsquared² FW ‘14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week. Short dresses were worn with extravagant overcoats to create drama and floor length, glamorous dresses were exaggerated with fur jackets and long, embellished capes. 1960’s dress silhouettes were referenced through short, buttoned up mini dresses and ostentatiousness was epitomised through heavy embellishments.
Philipp Plein Underwear
Shortly after Philipp Plein's cowboys pranced down the runway at the Fall/Winter 2014 show in Milan, the Swiss Maison is delight to present it‘s men‘s underwear debut. Embodying the essence of beauty, innovation, fun and sensuality, the collection consists of sporty boxers, briefs and shorts made of comfortable jersey. And of course, the new campaign features images by Steven Klein. In a luxury 'Fight Club', he transforms his protagonists into wild wrestling bad boys, when the animal instinct and lust for life emerges. Co-existing to the images, a video completes the thought of body-to-body struggle: it's night, when two shirtless boys walk into a deli and escape back into a limousine. Superimposed by haunting fighting sequences, the video encapsulates the campaign's spirit: Battle with all your forces!
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
Not far away from the Jean Paul Gaultier headquarters, at 'Le Comédia' -an old Parisian theater- the French couturier's show took part on wednesday night. The theatrical spectacle was inspired by cabaret and French Revue from the twenties and thirties. And a glamorous Burlesque-themed performance started, when it‘s showgirls flounced down the runway wearing feathered and butterfly-shaped headpieces.
Black satin costumes were followed by multi-coloured tight wasp waists, corsets and net-laced dresses made of semi-transparent light fabrics. As a big surprise Dita Von Teese closed the show.
Melinda Gloss at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mathieu de Ménonville and Rémi de Laquintane of Melinda Gloss made a contemporary silhouette with loose shapes and sharp tailoring for their Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Subtle ski-references were made with headbands, elastic hems and big parka's. The color palette was dark but deep with bottle-green, grey and purple.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In just a few seasons, the house of Kenzo has renewed it's popularity with recognizable prints, colors and a few collaborations. This season Humberto Leon and Carol Lim went to a more homely place as the collection started with earthy tones as grey and brown. A lot of focus was put on tailoring and knitwear, the latter being used for big collars on coats, slim pants and chunky sweaters. Colors like pink, lime and purple were later reinforced to brighten up the collection. Funny detail was the shaggy fur, that was actually kangaroo.
Hien Le and Baby-G at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Traditionally, Hien Le’s show kicks off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This time around the designer partnered up with Baby-G, re-interpreting the classical model of the watch brand - with the wristbands almost cut from the same cloth as Le’ s designs and therefore being the perfect addition to the collection’s looks. The collection in itself was rather bold in shades of Bordeaux and petrol, considering Hien Le’s usual affinity to intriguing designs in muted colors and patterns. That is not to say that Le strayed from the usual grays and nudes.
For fall/winter 2014/15, wearable pieces for both sexes were made from wool, cashmere, leather and silk. Hien Le’s choice of music was maybe just as bold, with Kanye West blasting from the speakers the second the lights went off. Once again, Le put forward game-changing looks and ideas.
Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Maison Martin Margiela focused on wearable and sober clothing with subtle twists. Slightly slouchy grey suits had pants with double hems and coats were fastened with suspenders when worn over the shoulder. Big knits were teamed up with even bigger furs and there was a sense of wrapping and folding in the collection. MMM wouldn't do right to there name if they didn't include some decomposing and reassembling with diving-gear, thick tent-like canvas and leather satchels.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Sport was unmistakably on Bill Gaytten's mind for his latest collection for John Galliano. All looks were based around leggings and sneakers in all sorts of colors and designs. Longer tops had elastic hems to create a rounded effect and parka's had big hoods and cinched waists. Some looks were finished with more urban items like jackets and overcoats, but even they were made out of exquisite technical materials. The collection was given an upbeat touch with shiny surfaces and pop-colors.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Kim Jones has always been talking about the art of travel for his collections at Louis Vuitton. That is no surprise with a brand that started in luggage but this season he pushed the envelope in that domain. After referencing most continents, Jones this time looked even further. For the Fall/Winter collection the designer looked at NASA maps of the world from space and took aerial photographs of Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Lines in Peru as an inspiration. He then went to those areas to find the finest local materials. This made for a collection that had an futuristic edge but was earthed in traditional values. Best were looks when there was a tension between formal and casual, for exemple in jumpsuit looks with matching coats or suits worn with t-shirts. Jones also added a new version of the Damier-pattern to the house's codes, called the Damier Cobalt, with a dark blue as a sign of new understated luxury.
Carven at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
With dark workwear, elegant but manly shapes and high fur hats, Guillaume Henry at Carven seemed to reference the Beat Generation of New York in the sixties. Tailored pants fell just on the ankle to reveal clunky shoes and big double breasted coats gave the shoulders a slight roundness. Heavy knitwear was tucked in pants and most shirts came without collars. Beginning with blacks and dark blues, the collection later adapted tones like nude, burgundy and a graffiti print.
John Lawrence Sullivan at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
John Lawrence Sullivan fall/winter 2014 was all about British examples of rebels like mods, skinheads and teddy boys. This resulted in quite a few high waisted pleated pants and creepers. It wasn't a retrospective though. Arashi Yanagawa made these influences from last century exciting and new with blown up stripes, metallics and furry knits. Other motives was minerals and marbles, which were visible in prints used for suits, jackets and parkas. This print was especially convincing when treated with a layer of plastic.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Inspired by the empathetic portraits of Canadian painter Kris Knight, the new Gucci Fall/Winter 2014 collection shows linear, graphic shapes with the precision in design. The Gucci men -during the day- wears sixties pants, nappa leather and biker jacket, and velvet blazers at night. Manifested in Gucci‘s traditional craftmansship, leather is the protagonist of most garments and occures in almost every look. Creative director Frida Giannini chose a colour pallete, that culminates from deep black into dusty pastels.
Calvin Klein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
After Calvin Klein has presented the upcoming Fall/Winter 2014 collection during Milan Fashion Week, there are three expressions, that bear in mind: ETERNITY,OBSESSION and ESCAPE. Named after CK fragrances, these slogans, graced numerous of oversized sweaters and underlined how wide-ranging the brand is. The military-inspired collection features baggy metallic pants, leather bombers, backpacks and jean jackets in leather, dominated by earthy warm colours.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
As an absolute highlight of second day at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014, fashion label Alexander McQueen showcased a tribute to the brands -very british- loyal high quality tailoring. Sarah Burton's choice of location and soundtrack underlined the collections dark sprit: staged in an old church and accompanied by Bauhaus's 'Bela Lugosi Dead', the collection itself was almost entirely black, sometimes paired with silver or gold accents. Sharp tailored suits, plaids and skinny trousers layered with kilts and skirts got highlighted by John Deakin's photo motive of painter Lucian Freud digitally printed on shirts and long double-breasted coats.
SEEK at Kühlhaus Berlin
Under the theme 'We look towards pop culture for inspiration; we're influenced by sub-cultures, books, youth movements, films and art', the genuine fashion trade show SEEK will warmly welcome the Fall/Winter 2014/2015 season during next Berlin Fashion Week. Since the trade show was founded in 2009, within this exhibition, SEEK will celebrate it's 5th anniversary. Creative Director Oliver Saunders and Fashion Director Maren Wiebus, therefore, chose the unique location Kühlhaus to present 90 selected international brands including Barbour, Billionaire Boys Club, BBC Black, Gourmet, Duffer Japan, Cheap Monday, Our Legacy, Property Of, Puma Collaborations, V Ave Shoe Repair and so on, to an ever-growing audience. As all of them stand for something close to SEEK creators' hearts and find it's inspiration in their surroundings, influenced strongly by music and art, the issuing labels represent authenticity, quality, design and function.
SEEK is on from the 14th till 16th of January 2014 between 10am and 7pm at Kühlhaus Berlin, Germany.
GUCCI's 'Cruise 2014'
Inspired by the vibrant South American temperament of Rio de Janiero, Creative Director Frida Giannini designed the exclusive 'Cruise 2014‘ womens' collection, an ex- clusive insight of must-have travel essentials for the modern GUCCI woman. The collection expresses opulent nonchalance, euphoriy, yet a strong glamourous appearance picking up 70ies styles of the Italian traditional house of GUCCI. Feminine overalls in wide silhouettes and slightly oversized proportions are combined with waist belts, among elegant evening gowns and the new kimono-wrap dress made of exclusive silks. Next to glamourous highlights some sporty influences conquer the GUCCI cosmos within bomber jackets, basketball-inspired T-Shirts and the FRIDA Shirt, the first time Giannini's name appears on one of the brand's designs.
The collection is especially characterized by using various high-quality materials, such as silk, featherweight crêpe de Chine, suedes and cashmere. Some pieces are made of shimmering hand-embroidered iridescent gold and silver sequins, more casual garments are adorned with Macro-Paisley-prints. Photographed against an orange, purple and pink sunset image, the whole colour palette of the collection ranges from exotic colours through to rusty and copper nuances, as well as metallic, silver and bronze shades. As expected, the Cruise 2014 is not missing out on three suitable handbag lines: The 'GUCCI 58‘, which customizes the charming looks of the season's collection. The 'Harness' combines the design of the GUCCI Horsebit with traditional craftsmanship, whilst the brand's outstanding characteristic bamboo detail gives an elegant allure to the feminine 'Hip Bamboo'. Metallic high-heel sandals and the Espadrilla wedges complete the looks of the sporty- glamorous women's 'Cruise 2014' collection.
Take a look at the whole collection on
The Madeleen- Bugaboo by Kaviar Gauche
The iconic Dutch pushchair brand Buga- boo teams up with avant-garde designer duo Kaviar Gauche in an ultimative collaboration of 'The Madeleen', a stylish and suitable must-have bag for a modern mother. As the brand Bugaboo stands for mobility and innovative design, this accessories sets new standards, especially for the mother's everyday use. The inspiration for this magnificent, yet handy bag came within a workshop of 'It-mums' of the German media landscape, who represented the potential customer and gave direct input of how an essential bag for a modern woman should be and look like. Kaviar Gauche incorporated these informations into the design process and created a bag made of luxurious black soft nappa leather combined with suede. The eye-catcher bag combines the classic tote form with the duffel bag look, has a removable bag-in-bag with various inside pockets and a zip, which separates the base from the rest of the bag.
'The Madeleen' will be available online from November 2013 as a limited edition of 300 bags.
REPLAY's Laserblast Club Capsule Collection
On Wednesday, 23rd of October 2013 Italian denim and casual wear brand REPLAY celebrated the launch of it's Laserblast Club capsule collection at the ‘Terrassensaal' in Munich in collaboration with VICE. Stunning British singer Charli XCX -who is the protagonist and new face of this collection and just released her first album ‘True Romance' - highlighted this very special event with a vivid live performance, accompanied by flashy computer graphics and laser beamer video projections.
The new REPLAY AW2013-14 line combines club culture with denim, but also points out technological progresses, en- viromental responsibility and eco-oriented thinking. Through using the Laserblast technology to get the typical denim aethetics, REPLAY doesn't need to use big amounts of water, energy and stones or sand to wash the jeans, as the wash is literally put onto the jeans by a laser. Watch the video teaser of Charli XCX for the REPLAY Laserblast Club Capsule Collection on
Dr. Martens x Gavin Watson
Certainly one of the strongest claims to counterculture, Dr. Martens boots with their trademark yellow stitching, grooved sole and heel-loop have defined a specific look. Countless rebellious streams, subcultures and tribes have adopted the style, which accompanies the journey towards-self expression. Aside from the boot itself, the brand has incorporated accessories and apparel into its collection. Enter renowned British photographer Gavin Watson.
He has been deeply involved with British subculture since adolescence and has documented the scene in his intimate photographs. Born in Northwest London in 1965, Watson started taking pictures at an early age. By the time he was 14 he had become a skinhead and immersed himself into this world of Dr. Martens, 2 Tone and Madness. Through all of it, he documented his buddies‘ shenanigans as well as those of his ‘muse‘ - his brother Neville - through the lens of his camera. Publications such as ‘Skins‘, ‘Skins and Punks‘ and ‘Raving ‘89‘ showcased his work to the world and have prone luminaries from Terry Richardson to Shane Meadows to hail him as a genius and even credit much of the look of the 2006 drama ‘This is England‘ to Watson‘s work.
For the Fall/Winter 2013 season Watson will present a capsule collection of limited edition printed T-shirts, which feature images from his vast archive. The images are captioned as ‘Nev flying the flag outside the Watson house in Hawthorne, High Wycombe‘, ‘Dean Spencer outside Camera Press, Coram St, Russell Square, London, 1981‘, ‘Nev’s sky blue Sta Press and Docs, Carnaby St. London‘ and ‘The Wycombe Marsh mob, Wycombe Marsh, 1981.‘ The shirts will be available in two different fits, for men and women respectively and will be available from Dr. Martens own retail stores and online from October.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
At Paris Fashion Week SS14 CHANEL showcased a vivid, optimistic and cheerful collection that linked art and fashion and manifested the creator‘s attitude towards a symbiosis between both. Karl Lagerfeld showed elaborate looks in the brand‘s cult fabric tweed embroidered with muslins, organza and laces, often frayed and torned. Spring/Summer 2014 at CHANEL will be dominated by a colour palette of blacks and whites next to pink, blue and yellow shades. Elements of the traditional costume got assembled in a new design and combine flowing, asymmetric and deep décolleté‘s with wide or slim silhouettes. Handbags, rings, bracelets and a new interpretation of the legendary pearl necklace completed this remarkable look.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The House of Dior for Spring/Summer 2014 conquered the runway with a strong, feminine and very exoctic appearance. This collection was drawing a line of successful new interpretations and a variety of ideas. Raf Simons‘s creations were built on exclusive fabrics, such as bright silks and jacquards and stunning floral prints related to the impressive runway location, which felt like a surrealistic tropical rainforest setting.
The iconic traditional Dior Bar Jacket appeared next to translucent pleat skirts in neon coulors combined with monochromic metallic garments and very powerful multi-coloured dresses. Wrapped tops emphasized the beauty of a woman‘s waistline, relating to the sensual spirit Dior is loved for.
A.F. Vandevorst at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
With the sand still in their hair and with rattling Bedouin jewelry announcing their arrival, it was clear that the A.F. Vandevorst woman for Spring 2014 was a nomad at heart. Slouchy silhouettes based around semi-transparent sarouels were anchored by dramatic collars and tailoring, while beading and metallic touches made the collection more sophisticated. This collection marked the 15th anniversary of the brand by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx and the collection featured some flashbacks, but at the same time it offered plenty of new propositions.
Dolce&Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Designer-duo Dolce&Gabbana for Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 showcased garments, that got inspired by Roman and Greek mythology and the perfection of ancient temples and theatres. The collection thematically focuses on beauty, magic and enchantment and exposes pomposity and glamour in a strong manner. The main motives of this show were golden antique coins adorning dresses, headbands, jewelry and belts. Macramé and chiffon textiles in a colour palette of black, red, cream, dark green and esspecially gold dominated this selection of stunning pieces.
Remarkable prints of almond tree flowers, lithography of Sicilian temples and traditional decorations of ceramics highlighted exclusive fabrics such as lacquered silks, organza laces and gold-printed leather. Along with exclusive, luxury pieces, such as highwaist pencil skirt, fur vests, golden earrings and the newest Dolce & Gabbana bags entitled Eva and Sara, the fashion collection, was accompanied by the original music taken from various movies of Federico Fellini.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Philipp Plein‘s show at Milan Fashion Week has been a spectaculous highlight opening with an exclusive live performance of "Work“ by Australian rapper Iggy Azalea that combined the two worlds of Hip Hop and fashion. With a cast of only black models the german designer wanted to commit a statement towards breaking barriers and rules. Stunning beauties arised the runways in studded baseball jackets made of Nappa leather, striped socks and mini-pleated skirts all dominated by black, white, pink and blue colours and flashy metallic shades. Lacy night gowns made of translucent chiffons created a feminine-chic styling combined with eye-catching highlights of Swarovski crystals.
KTZ at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Marjan Pejoski & Koji Maruyama’s Spring/ Summer 2014 was a highlight on third day of London Fashion Week. Dominated by black and white moroccan tile textures, the collection had unique pieces made of high- tech fabrics and varnished leather accessoried by oversized, opulent jewellery and metallic embossing. Hitting the zeitgeist with stunning creations such as hijab-looking headpieces, hamsa hands and enveloping garments, the designer duo transformed the runway into a futuristic sci-fi trip to the oriental dessert.
Ralph Lauren at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014
Ralph Lauren put forward a classical and monochrome collection on last day of NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Starting with chic business outfits, dominated mostly by blacks and whites and a variety of floral and square patterns. Skirts, three piece suits, as well as evening gowns glazed on the runway. The flow of this clear line during the second phase got pursued by unexpected pieces of vivid, acid- shrill colour ranges. Sharply-cut dresses were put together with matching accessories such as handbags, hats and sunglasses.
L’ Aventure Pop-up Shop opens up in Paris
L’ Aventure is a pop-up store designed in collaboration with canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé and his team. ‘The Louis Vuitton’s experience doesn’t stop as soon as you walk out the store with your luggage, they’re in it for life with you.’ This unpredented space highlights Louis Vuitton’s expert authority on travel, since Louis Vuitton’s monogram shows up daily on every airport worldwide. The store will offer not only objects, but also a number of unique services, such as offering a wide range of options for customising luggage.
L’ Aventure opens on 12 September 2013 on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Where would you look to find the fashion’s face of today? When many would turn to the catwalks, Diesel – with its hopeful spirit ready to ‘Reboot’ – has herded an army of outsiders from the fertile soil of the brand’s Tumblr page. A practising follower of social media, newly-appointed Artistic Director, Nicola Formichetti, was the main protagonist to what is a refreshing chapter in the Diesel story – a change of narrative and a fresh plot to match. Formichetti’s vision is one that unearths and champions the most relevant talent of our time – something he has always been keen to depict through his imagery – and the Fall/Winter 13 campaign is no different.
The subjects make for an eclectic cast, comprised of Japan’s current obsession (actress Kiko Mizuhara), rosy-haired Bronx graffiti artist (Michelle Calderon) and female Olympian-turned-male model (Casey Legler). Throw in an Italian electro-house DJ (Bob Rifo) and an alienesque Dylan Fosket, and the troupe grows curiouser and curiouser. The styling of each shot was entrusted to the individual, with the vital Diesel staples to hand – a wardrobe of denim and leather pieces, customised by Formichetti himself. Composed in classic-portrait style, the shots frame the atypical models with brilliant nobility, and with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinnodh Matadin on board as photographers, they strike a formula to render snapshots as artefacts of modern times.
Diesel Opens Frankfurt Flagship Store
Raising the curtain after a three-year absence from the city, Diesel unveiled its new and long-awaited flagship store in Frankfurt’s main metropolis on August 1st. Split over two levels, the 383m² store will present pieces from both menswear and womenswear main line collections and Diesel Denim, alongside a discerning selection of shoes, bags and accessories. Four months of hard labour transformed the listed building into an inspiring retail space, built on the artful marriage of vintage and contemporary design accents, from cold, hard steel fixtures to wood block floors.
It’s most exciting element, however, is its devoted private areas to the Diesel Black Gold ready-to-wear collections - previously exclusive to a select handful of German stores, the Frankfurt store is now home to its most daring and directional line. And the new destination still has surprises in store, as September 5th will mark its large-scale opening event, and will be attended by founder of the label, Renzo Rosso, for what promises to be a truly spectacular launch.
Mykita Opens Store in New York
Debuting their directional eyeware in the USA for the first time is Berlin-based brand, MYKITA. Adding to its list of worldwide locations that includes Paris, Zurich, Vienna and Tokyo, the New York store now marks the eigth retail space opened by the brand. Set in the heart of SoHo, the new MYKITA store overhauls a space in Crosby Street's defunct art deco factory building, retaining its original character with its industrial finish.
Almost an art installation in itself, the merchandising of the boutique is unique to the eye of MYKITA, drawing upon the concept of mass-production and ready consumption to construct an ambiance that is both inordinately stocked and astonishingly minimal. The store will offer pieces from their main line alongside a covetable capsule collection exclusive to 109 Crosby Street.
Nieuw Jurk Spring/Summer 2014
Ever reliable to stir controversy, Dutch label Nieuw Jurk shouted from the soapbox of their Amsterdam Fashion Week show with a collection founded on debauchery and scandal. $€XXX speaks mirthifully of the impact of the porn industry and its amplification with the uncontainable presence of the internet.
Chunky rubber boots and PVC bodysuits cling tight to skin, buckled and zipped in fetishwear fashion. Motifs were both lucid and lurid, as X-rated imagery jibed with comic rave-print wit. Sex-shop neons emblazoned photographic prints with their depressingly optimistic lambent glow, tiling catsuits and men's co-ords in wearably clubby pastiche; outsized patent tees take on inflatable doll appliqué with surprisingly permissive flare, while the smile of acid-house undergoes crass adulteration.
Accessories were a little more conceptual, though their statement was no less explicit; faux fur patches served playfully as knee and breast patches, while harness bras and candy string bikinis drolly stands up for any witticism left unsaid.
Royal Hem Fall/Winter 2013
Cyclewear just got stylish with Royal Hem's Fall/Winter 13 collection, a tribute to London's cult cycle ride and mirthfully named 'Tweed Run', for which contestants take to the pedals in a dress code of traditional British biking attire.
Royal Hem unpick the stitches that form the patchwork of British style; a fusion of sartorial British classicism, French mystique and knife-sharp Italian tailoring, its foreign accents are what steer the aesthetic from costume, to a kind of charisma that is more difficult to define.
Casual stands up to a hit of formality, with Shetland wools and Aran knits layering bow-tied shirts and waistcoats. Plus fours are revived with that eccentric taste for color-clashing that could only get past a British palate, as flecked tweeds and dogtooth checks bicker politely amidst a canvas of ¾ length pants and deconstructed blazers, lined with vintage Penny Farthing prints. Slimline silhouettes streamline with single breasted jackets, while Chesterfield coats are made boxy by shawl collars and patch pockets. Styled with a contemporary hand, however, fedoras and rolled ankle cuffs speak with an audacious London twang.
IWISHUSUN X Marcelo Burlon supported by Warsteiner
Unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, IWISHUSUN 's latest collaboration brings the steely punch of Marcelo Burlon's digitized County of Milan rave prints to its new initiative line – limited to a strict 100 pieces.
Piercing through T-shirts in black or white, Burlon punctuates a simple backdrop with an owl motif in signature kaleidoscopic style – a modernised symbol of 360° vision. With the sale of every T-shirt, IWISHUSUN, together with its partner ORBIS are able to use the proceeds to fund cataract eye operations in Dhaka, Bangladesh, limiting the widespread suffering of preventable blindness.
In partnership with the Warsteiner brewery, Burlon's design has also been translated to their limited edition bottles, mirroring the T-shirts with their complimentary monochrome tones.
Vault by Vans x WTAPS
Launching their latest collaboration with military precision, Vault by Vans x WTAPS had customers lining the streets outside Berlin's Firmament store, ready to enlist for their new classic styles, reinterpreted in camo shades of navy, olive greens and blacks.
Lending their iconic silhouettes as a canvas are the Sk8-Hi, Slip-On and Chukka Boot, recieving their warpaint for Fall 2013. Canvas and suede coat with a utilitarian edge, in timeless natural shades that will stand the test of time, like their world renowned skeletons.
The Vault by Vans x WTAPS collection will be available worldwide from August 15th.
Michael Sontag Spring/Summer 2014
Inside and out - the binary behind Michael Sontag's spring/summer 2014 collection. Traditional linings such as horsehair took center stage during his presentation at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Intertwined with silks, light cotton, a polyamide-mix, and denim, the materials shaped his layered looks. The collection was elaborate and conceptualized, yet wearable. Sontag layered shorts of full length pants and topped them off with more layers on top, never loosing the airy lightness of his idea. From muted creme, black and gray to canary yellow and lagoon blue, the color palette corresponded to the trends for spring/summer 2014, as seen during Berlin Fashion Week thus far. Surprising sparkle in the designs came out as they moved along the runway: Sontag added Swarovski crystals to some pleats.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Marcel Ostertag Spring/Summer 2014
The most eclectic designer showing during MBFWB is certainly Marcel Ostertag. Always one to take things a little further, the designer himself took to the runway to open his show in a long blush gown jacket. What a way to celebrate his 15th collection thus far. His 'Fragile Explosion' really went for it with vivid colors such as turquoise, green and shimmery gold as well as flower prints, sequins and combos of cotton and jersey or jersey and leather. The almost excessive use of sheer materials brought out the edgy, naughty side of the collection and balanced the more romantic floral and blush pieces. For his anniversary, Ostertag managed to put forward a collection which is cohesive and individual, having a little something of everything.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Fendi Avenue Montaigne Store Opening
Fendi celebrated its move from 22 Avenue Montaigne to number 51 with the unveiling of The Glory of Water exhibition, exclusive in-store cocktail reception and a dinner hosted at the iconic Petit Palais. Karl Lagerfeld guested alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi, Sharon Stone and Chiara Mastroianni.
The new 600m² bouqitue – a celebration of Italian beauty – was designed with rich femininity. Sumptuous textures coat curves in velvet, leather and sleek stone. Fendi wears its Roman roots on its sleeves, studding walls with travertine plates.
Boasting an exclusive fur room, the new store will provide customers with the oppurtunity to create made-to-order pieces. A spectacular installation will narrate the craftsmanship behind the construction of Fendi's fur lines, with the infamous Baguette bag hanging from a display wall pierced by 30, 000 bronze needles. Bags too can be bespoke, with items from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag available to customise to a specification of leathers, colors and finishes.
Chanel Fall Couture 2013
A mixed bag for Chanel this couture season; true-to-tradition bouclé had us believing we were following a path back to the golden age of the brand. That was until hemlines were snatched back and suede cuissardes gave new meaning to longline. Metallics threaded through the weave of the wool itself, set off by the layering of sequined pastel separates.
Mandarin collars and funnel-necks went a little bit '60s, a little bit space-race, in exaggerated volumes, while rolled-over edges gave an inflated cartoonish finish. Wide belts were embellished with the occasional line of silver – reminiscent of pilgrim styles, they found themselves doubled, even tripled in size. Slung to the hips they seemed careless, but tight go-go shifts in silk said otherwise.
Lagerfeld's experimentation with texture truly came to fruition with the tactile geometrics he mosaiced. Soft sheer underlays peeked through the delicate silver armour of fabrics that were seemingly adorned by the fine art of paper-rolling. Origami cloth squares opened with a cross to give the impression of a gentler kind of studwork, picking out the accenting features of the Chanel silhouette: just the hint of a swan-like neck and a quick flash of feminine wrists.
Augustin Teboul Spring/Summer 2014
Like dark princesses, Augustin Teboul's models drew the attention during the spring/summer 2014 show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Each in their own space, divided by white screens, they exuded detachment from the outside world and a kinship with the spiritual sphere. Once again Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul used their favorite materials - leather, knits, silk and mousselin - which they combined with fringed and patent leather details for spring/summer 2014. While they stayed true to their all black aesthetic, they interpreted it for the lighter and warmer season with styles such as shorts, dresses and crocheted parts. Inspiration came from Christendom and its stark contrast of humility and opulence. Volume once again played a big role in the collection, as did intricate embellishments, reminiscent of ecclesiastical ornaments. Augustin Teboul rounded off their looks with their notorious headpieces, creating the ultimate extravaganza in black.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2014
The label IVANMAN has been around since 2010. The menswear collection is characterized by clear lines, minimalist silhouettes and graphic geometrical details: a testament to the label’s balancing act between classic and avant-garde designs. For spring/summer 2014, the deliberate reflection of the present as a time of change served as inspiration. For designer Ivan Mandzukic, fashion is a social phenomenon, which he is trying to break down into its pieces, analyze these and create new clothes with them. The color scheme for spring/summer 2014 ranges from softer white, camel and rose to grungy black. This contrast between soft and feminine and harsh, masculine attributes is evident throughout the entire designs. Stand out elements of the unusual collection were certainly the body belts, baring the models’ backs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013
Until now, Raf Simons' reworking of Dior was seen to be remarkably orthodox. Only his third couture show for the fashion house, designs were propelled by a kind of creative licence that was perceptibly braver.
Though heritage houndstooth still made the cut, this time it was magnified, mantled and modernised. A patent sheen picked out the tiered layers of the reinterpreted bar suit – a brazen symbol if ever there were for Simons' eventual metamorphosis of the brand. Fabrics swathed, yet the look remained clean, fitted to the form for a reworked feminimnity that was contemporary, all the while classic.
More surprising still was the arrival of spiked shibori, which sported strapless dresses with spage-age skeleton. Hair and makeup too afforded a sense of the intergalactic, slicked to skull to show silvered lips. Diagonal cuts sliced through the flounce of Dior's past like a scalpel, pastel metallics and sheer holograph prints abducting its legacy and transporting it not just to the present, but resonating the brand firmly in the future.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014
Thom Browne's spectacular presentations are always a highlight on the menswear calendar and his presentation for spring/summer 2014 was no exception. The collection balanced between the super masculine and the super feminine, the masculine part being the navy with their broad-shouldered and heavy-armed costumes and hats and the feminine in details like laced corset-backs, crinoline hips and lacquered fabrics. There was an air of fetishism in the way the models wore the silhouettes with high heels and red lipstick with a tough attitude. If you want to see them, there were lots of political messages in the collection; maybe gays in the army or the perception of what is feminine or masculine. But above all, these were clothes crafted with immaculate attention to detail and a lot of ideas to distill.
KRISVANASSCHE Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kris van Assche outed a clean and graphically strong collection for his Spring/Summer 2014 collection in fresh and bold colors. The Belgian designer started with suits and infused them with sportswear, resulting in boxy tops with lapels and a zipper across the stomach. The same characteristics came back on a garment which looked like a hybrid of a blazer and a bomber-jacket which were so voluminous that the models almost looked round from the side. Also round were the polka-dot cut-outs on the black sweater.
Valentino Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the head designers of Valentino, are known for their experimental approach to everyday classics. Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection expressed that approach in a military way mixed with clean lines and new silhouettes. Starting of with full looks in raw denim, the collection later picked up white T-shirts and chinos. Recent hallmarks like heat-bonded leather and camo-print also reappeared. This all with the extreme couture-like skill that the designers are known for. The duo also introduced a new collaboration with Havaianas, combining luxury and practicality in crocodile thongs.
Dries van Noten Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The backdrop of the Dries van Noten show on thursday was a massive curtain of gold foil that shimmered like a pool on a sunny day. In the middle of the hall was a gold drum kit that soon was played by a young woman, providing the models with a hypnotic rhythm. The collection that followed was quintessential Dries: floral prints, see-through fabrics and above all the nonchalance of a very cool guy. The collection was infused with antique military clothing and elements, like a heavy gold embroidery and gold piping and buttons. When the Belgian took his bow, the drummer didn't stop playing and the models, who were lined up against the gold foil, didn't move a feet. This gave a great opportunity to see the clothing up close, and revealed details that only closer inspections make visible.
Marni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer at Marni gave us a touch of the trainspotter; all anoraks and flasher macs – a look which is at once smart and scuffed. Oversized raincoats swamp the pencil-frame lent by slim cigarette pants, with skinny ties elongating yet further. Chelsea boots mark the footprint of '60s London. Come to mention it, the look would not seem altogether out of place were it sported by Jimmy Cooper in Quadrophenia.
Checkerboard shirts – more 2 tone than Mod – tuck half-heartedly into schoolboy shorts, buttoned up neatly to the collar as if in ironic jest. Tailoring is as sharp as it always was on Carnaby Street, still in tonic fabrics but color-blocking makes it current. Print is an alien force, speckled few and far between a line that is squarely minimalist. Marni may have gone back in time to deliver this collection, but pieces sit firmly in the future of Spring/Summer.
Fendi Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Stepping onto scorching sands this Spring/Summer was the heated pace of Fendi. A duned setting helped to lay the tone, though the arid designs spoke for themselves.
Sunset yellow drove full-throttle, terracotta as deep as desert sand belted tightly in the passenger seat. In the shades afforded by the powdered dyes of the East, vibrancy permiated in blocks – though speckled paint stains told of their source.
Fabrics befitted the sweltering heat, in airy yet endurable weights. Jackets, meanwhile, puckered and glossed like roasted leather. Tailoring remained subdued; in sandy camel hues, slim-fit fought the oversized elements, with the aforementioned ultimately winning. Co-ordinated pieces jarred ever so slightly, as scratchy straw checks weren't quite in tune. Piled together, the look is undoubtedly eclectic. Standalone, however, each piece simply blazes in the summer sun.
Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Prada’s prints certainly know the art of persuasion – seemingly repulsive at first glance, just a few more looks is all it takes before they blossom into something whole-heartedly desirable. Color, too, is applied with a masterful stroke, this time in melancholic hues which contrast and bejewel with off-kilter tones. Deep blood red - the kind reserved solely for velvet - cushions nuggets of equally opulent teal, to flock mournful holiday florals.
Hawaiian prints, not used to summers in the shade, seem wilted in amongst the cool air. With trousers long and layers heavy, together the look is vaguely autumnal. That is, until, dissected to standalone pieces, whereupon Prada bridges the gap between cliché and capricious.
Versace Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A celebration of athleticism – that's what Versace gave us with their latest presentation. Bodies suitibly buffed, muscles bust hulk-like from cropped shorts and cuffs rolled just an inch too early. Toned frames were a tight fit for uncompromising leather numbers, though such was the intended effect. Appliquéd in sports tape – skin no exception – tank-style collared shirts adopted light, sporty weights in racer hues, from fluro-blues to day-glow orange.
Suit pants mirror sweats, with ribbed cuffs to boot. It is the gladiator sandals, however, that hold the torch for olympian apparel, reforming the look with modernistic flare.
Stone Island Fall/Winter 2013 Lookbook
Stone Island unveiled their Fall/Winter lookbook this week, with fashion-conscious sportswear the front-running philosophy. Heralding a basic line of leisurewear staples, Stone Island executes the design of plain classics with contemporary flair. The coming collection punctuates the faithful bomber jacket with enticing texture and brazen colour in a slouch fit that oozes offhand cool. Cargo detailing and denim, meanwhile, add a touch of utility to an otherwise practical and casual line. Puffa jackets redefine themselves as objects to be desired in vivid jewel shades, while parkas are the ticket to play down any look with roguish nonchalance.
Philipp Plein Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer for Philipp Plein was a surprisingly eloquent pick 'n' mix of subcultures past. Rolling out almost fifty looks, Plein had plenty of room for manoeuvre.
The collection started out somewhere between ted and rockabilly before doing a full 180 to the baggy sweatpants of now. Black and red leather formed the skin of the collection, in weights ripe for biking and with the customary rocker studwork, Jackets were cut to hijack the wardrobe of the teds – complete with leather shawl collar, retro was rewired to duly home Plein's autograph laughing skull motif, amongst the scrapbook of patched denim. Snatching shirts from blazered models stripped back the costume of the look to the current day, paired with distressed-to-the-point-of-write-off jeans hugging hips just enough to give a flash of branded briefs. Where others fail to handle the retro's reluctancy to move with the times, Plein has indefinitely stolen from the best and made it his own, albeit with tongue habitually-placed in cheek.
Escada Sport Spring/Summer Campaign 2013
Set against the infinite turquoise of the ocean skyline, Escada Sport's Guatemala-inspired Summer collection paints an equally breathtaking view. The campaign, photographed by ZOO's very own Bryan Adams, frames model Sara Blomqvist with the scenery of the promenade, with white walls and palms providing a graphic motif.
The relaxed beach vibe is embodied by motion, as floor-skimming pajama pants catch sail of the wind. Slouch-fit seperates billow with the breeze, though light summer knits in the hottest of pinks certainly make for a lustworthy windbreaker. Bandeaus and monokinis keep swimwear style subtle, but busy patterns keep the eye entertained. Pure ice-whites provide respite from color, amplifying hues like stained glass. Print, all the while, emblazons with stripes of all species: plain rigid lines , graduated batiks and stencilled florals weave through aztec grids – a souvenir from a Guatemalan summer.
Moncler open store in Sylt
Continuing their expansion within Germany, Moncler are to open a boutique on the northern island of Sylt, stocking clothes and accessories from the Moncler and Moncler Grenoble collections. In keeping with the typical white brickwork and thatched rooves that line the city of Kampen, the new store has been designed to uphold “High Mountrain” traditions. Smoked oak pannelling clads floor and ceiling, making for a cosy interior that is typically 'Sylt' . Elegant touches of black metal and glass enhance rather than detract from the quaint setting – no doubt a design detail of architect firm Gilles & Boissier, who can claim a history of collaborations with the label.
Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A tent in Hyde Park was the marquee for Burberry Prorsum's homecoming, and what better way to herald British menswear than by paying tribute to England's most prolific creatives. 'Writers and Painters' titled the piece, authored by Christopher Bailey's creative vision.
Like Alan Bennett cutouts, longline woolen coats, sweaters, shirts and oxford slacks weighted the theme of the 'Writer', painted – seemingly – by the brush of David Hockney himself. Off-kilter shades traced the signature of the artist, with blood-red and turquoise piercing from pannels of mustard yellow. At the hand of Hockney, detail is simplified – and so was Bailey's stark color-blocking.
Save a peeking skinny tie and drawstring sack, accessories rarely reared a head. Spotted scarves referenced the painter, though what would either artist be without their chunky trademark frames? Revitalised in a Pop-Art spectrum, the brand's logo studs the surface of box-square sunglasses to optical effect. In praise or pastiche, Bailey's portrait of two artists assuredly paints a pretty picture.
'Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby' in Tokyo
Landing in Tokyo last week – just in time for the Great Gatsby film premiere - was the travelling exhibition Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby. Renowned for her collaborations with husband Baz Luhrmann on such visual feasts as Strictly Ballroom and Moulin Rouge, costume designer and art director, Catherine Martin, once again exercises her meticulous eye for detail as the visionary behind this year's most anticipated adaptation, with Miuccia Prada also at the creative helm.
Curated by New York studio 2x4, the collection showcases the elaborate gowns, shoes and accessories that dressed the stars of the movie – an absorbing viewing that is only enriched by the archive of sketches and backstage footage presented alongside.
Each show is uniquely tailored to its location. At Tokyo's Prada Epicenter, bespoke mannequins reflect the conceptual interior design of Herzog & de Meuron, while full scale body portraits of the actresses in costume bring The Great Gatsby to life in an experience that is at once ascertainable and unbelievably cinematic.
Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby runs in Tokyo until June 30th.
Milano Moda Uomo Creative Installation: Ermenegildo Zegna
Drawing a curtain on an eighteen-month hiatus, The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is going above and beyond to ensure the entrance of its new Creative Director, Stefano Pilati, is far from a quiet one. To mark his catwalk debut since leaving Yves Saint Laurent, his work will be unveiled amidst a specially-curated creative installation, falling upon the first day of Milan's Menswear Fashion Week.
The setting of The VI Febbraio Pavilion is steeped in Milanese history, standing as the old fairground site of the city. Recently redeveloped, through the duration of Milano Moda Uomo, it is set to become a hub of artistic activity.
Pilati has enlisted Swedish film director Johan Söderberg, musician Klas Åhlund and pianist and composer Maxence Cyrin to compliment the aesthetic of his creative direction.
The event will be open to the public, welcoming 1,000 guests from June 22nd-25th.
Isabel Marant for H&M
H&M today announced news of their eagerly-anticipated design collaboration, with Isabel Marant named as the latest designer to release a collection for the brand. Arriving in stores on November 14th, the collection will be the first in the label's history of collaborations to include a menswear line, following in the success of the David Beckham loungewear line.
Pieces are expected to follow in the ethos of Marant's effortless attitude to dressing – an idea that threads Parisian elegance throughout her aesthetic. Speaking on the collection, the designer said, "I aim to create something real, that women want to wear in their everyday lives, with a certain carelessness, which I think is very Parisian: you dress up, but do not pay too much attention and still look sexy. The collection is infused with this kind of easiness and attitude. Everything can be mixed following one's own instincts."
Previous partners of the label include Karl Lagerfeld, Versarce and Marni – each of whom have produced sell-out collections and queues to line the outside of the stores. A current climate of understated chic, however, forecasts Marant's to be the most sought-after collection for the brand.
Strellson to launch REFINED Edition
Swiss fashion label Strellson are to launch its premium Fall/Winter 2013 collection this August. The REFINED Edition is set to weave together classic and contemporary styles, through reinterpreted heritage fabrics and timeless design. Herringbone and broken twill are given relavance in the digital age, as stretch technology lends practicality to sartorial fashion. Expect updated takes on the typical Strellson sillhouette, with a capsule line of trousers, shirts, jackets, coats and accessories all in a palette of grey. Horn-rimmed glasses set off the look with astute attention to detail, while real horn buttons denote the modern man's taste for tradition.
The REFINED Edition will be available from Strellson shops internationally and online from August 2013.
Karl Lagerfeld Concept Store Openings
With word of a Karl Lagerfeld store expansion generating a steady buzz accross Europe, for Paris and Berlin, anticipation of the new concept stores in the two cities is reaching a crescendo. Wade through the picturesque streets of Le Marais from June 7th to stumble upon newest edition to the eclectic boutiques of Rue Vielle du Temple. The store is the second of its kind to launch in Paris this year, joining the Boulevard St Germain location, which opened in February this year. July 1st will see Berlin welcome it's first Karl Lagerfeld concept store, found on the Neue Schönhauser Straße, closely followed by another opening in Munich this September.
Developed under the creative direction of Berlin-based architects Plajer & Franz, the new Karl Lagerfeld concept stores are to follow in the same vein as it's other recently-opened destinations. Artful design and ground-breaking technology will serve to accent the brand's luxury collections, with matte-black and high-shine feeding texture into Lagerfeld's characteristic monochrome aesthetic.
In-store iPads open a window to the Lagerfeld world, with shoppers able to immerse themselves in the latest collections, photograph their favourite products and even leave a note for the designer. Innovation extends to the fitting rooms, which double as photobooths, equipped with built-in touch screens to apply Karl-inspired filters before uploading to Facebook and Twitter.The growing European presence of the brand shows little sign of waning, with a second Berlin concept store at Leipziger Platz to be unveiled early next year.
Fred Perry 60 Years auction
As part of the 60 Years anniversary of Fred Perry, the brand has compiled a list of their most loyal and distinguished fans and invited them to personalize a 1952 reproduction shirt. 60 shirts have been individually customized with special birthday messages and unique designs as part of the charity fund raising exercise.
From 30th May to 21st July, each of the customised shirts will be available as part of a special online auction in aid of the Amy Winehouse Foundation. The foundation has been set up in Amy's memory to prevent the effects of drug and alcohol misuse on young people and aims to support, inform and inspire vulnerable and disadvantaged young people to help them reach their full potential. The first 15 shirts will go for sale on Ebay on May 30th for a period of ten days and includes customisations from Sister by Sibling, Raf Simons, Bradley Wiggins, Damon Albarn, Exactitudes, Jamie Reid, Neville Brody and Inez & Vinoodh.
The shirts can be bid on from now at www.fredperry.com/60-years-gallery
Dior Cruise 2014
Raf Simons took the house of Christian Dior to Monaco for it's cruise 2014 presentation. The collection was a clear example of Raf pushing both himself and the French institute that is Dior. A new take on the Bar suit with exagerated shoulders and narrow waist in bright red set the tone for a quite sporty collection. This athletic influence was opposed with a new material for Raf: lace. Another reinvented classic was a piece that at first looked and moved like a "new look"-skirt but was, in fact, a baggy trouser with pleats on the hip.
MM6 Store Opening Paris
Just a few days ago, Maison Martin Margiela opened its first European store. After the first store was opened in New York in September 2012, it was only a matter of time until the next store in another fashion capital followed. The big white MM6 script over the entrance and the black door frame is visible from far away, attracting the Parisians’ attention. Located at 22 Place du Marché Saint Honoré the store is located in the prestigious first arrondissement.
The design inside the store contrasts dark wood with shining white tiles. The brown parquet floor leads the customers through the shop, along racks displaying the current SS 2013 collection and faceless white mannequins wearing some of the key looks. The furniture design uses clear lines and simplistic shapes. One of the core materials used for the furniture is glass, either in shimmering see-through or or transparent blue colour. Simplicity is the key to making the MM6 shopping experience a special one.
Mulberry First Berlin Store Opening
To continue the expansion of Mulberry into major European cities, the next store is opening in Berlin. It's the first store of the luxury fashion house in the vibrant German capital, bringing anything from the classic Bayswater to the casual Alexa manufactured in the tradition of dedicated craftsmanship with it. Mulberry, being one of the few fashion brands which still produces their goods in the UK, has always retained a focus on detailed leather craft and thereby guaranteed highest quality of their products.
Never forgetting the rural roots of the British brand, the store's design uses natural materials such as oak wood in warm colours or limestone, reminding of the English countryside. The British architects of Universal Design Studio came up with the store's design located at Kurfürstendamm 184.
A special treat welcoming guests at the opening is a kinetic art installation by the artist Frank Hülsbömmer. Besides the ranges of men’s and women’s leather bags as well as women's ready to wear and shoe collections, the Berlin store is home to the Willow Tote in a shiny brown alligator leather. It's the only one of its
kind in the entire world and available nowhere else.
Skies and Beyond by Bottega Veneta and Nancy Lorenz
Something very special was presented by Bottega Veneta at their Milan store during Salone de Mobile. The luxury fashion house revealed an exclusive line of 25 boxes created in collaboration with the artist Nancy Lorenz. After launching the “Lunar Landscapes“ box collection in 2003 and the “Botanical“ collection in 2002, ten years later the new collection seems to be a worthy follow-up. Its name is “Skies and Beyond“.
Each box is made out of wood and is covered in leather or suede. Rare and valuable materials such as white gold, leaf gold and mother of pearl are used for the lid. Every lid looks different and no box is the same, making each box a unique. Those 25 boxes are the perfect storage space for precious things, while they serve as fancy decoration in any room they are placed in.
Nancy Lorenz, who also lived in Tokyo for five years, found inspiration in the handicrafts and use of unusual materials in traditional Asian arts. She is the perfect fit for such a collection, which is all about detailed hand work. All the boxes are numbered and are available to preview on the official website, where one can also order them with the help of personal shoppers via a phone.
New Edition of The Little Black Jacket
While the book entitled The Little Black Jacket: Chanel's Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld came out in 2012 and its exhibition already toured cities all around the world, the newest edition is just about to be released this year. On 280 pages the book is paying tribute to Chanel's most iconic tweed jacket.
In January 2013 Karl Lagerfeld invited celebrities to his studio in Paris to shoot more images for the new edition of the book. Internationally well-known stars such as Keira Knightley and Diane Kruger reinterpreted the classic jacket and incorporated its look into their own personal style. The photos were taken by the fashion genius Karl Lagerfeld himself. On the official Chanel website the black and white photos can be seen in an interactive online gallery.
Candy L'Eau by Prada
There's a new girl in town – Candy. Prada's newest l'eau is hitting stores in April 2013 and it is much more than just a fragrance. It envisions the kind of girl that could be the next It-Girl. Independent and questioning the world, witty and intelligent, but also dreamy and sweet. The wearer gets to embody these qualities by just putting on a few drops of Candy – ultimately becoming Candy.
Along with the elegant cylinder shaped flacon in a rosé colour with the gilded Prada script, ZOO Magazine received a special book describing the Candy girl in detail. 'Candy from A to Z' finds matching attributes for every letter of the alphabet referring o the sweet fragrance itself or the kind of person it embodies. A like Armour, C like Caramel, J like Joie de Vivre, P like Party, U like Unpredictable.
It also hints the star of the ad campaign – L like Léa Seydoux. For the l'eau of Candy the French actress reprises as the coquettish woman with the even blonde fringe. The short film about Candy being torn between her two lovers Gene and Julius was shot by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola.
New Converse collections
by Rachel Marie Walsh
How many ways can Converse update their perennially popular Chuck Taylors? Well, this season they’re releasing several new lines with strong, creative themes. Well Worn boasts seven faded, retro-denim styles. The look harkens back to nostalgic American films such as My Girl and Stand By Me, where youngsters in scuffed sneakers experienced friendship, love and loss.
Other lines like Camouflage, Hawaiian and Animal answer questions like: “If a Chuck Taylor were an exotic holiday destination, what would it look like?" Jungle prints, hibiscus patterns and leopard prints showcase the colors of nature and Soho nightclubs.
Collaboration with Jack Purcell brings a touch of femininity, such as a pretty rose print on the plimsolls. Another line co-designed with Finnish brand Marimekko draws attention with crimson strawberry, clouds and spots. John Varvatos toughens things up New York-style, with zips, studs and monochrome colors.
All styles sport traditional chunky soles, breathable uppers and soft lining. You have to hand it to Converse - a brand that never stops reinterpreting a tried-and-true favorite.
Berlin Showroom Fall/Winter 2013-14
While Berlin it is not one of the world’s four principal fashion capitals, its designers are on the right way to establish themselves in the fashion scene. Aside from presenting their new collections at the bi-annual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, this season Berlin designers decided to bring their newest designs to Paris. The event called the Berlin Showroom was the first of its kind. It lasted for four days during Paris fashion week in the beginning of March.
23 designers were carefully selected to participate in the event, amongst them were already well-known designer as well as uprising newcomers. They came together and showcased their work in the Parisian “Espace Topographie de l’art” to over 600 visitors and press.
The professional environment guaranteed success for both designers and buyers, while the fresh feel and enthusiasm of the young event created an inspiring atmosphere. Hopefully the enthusiasm will endure until next season and so the first Berlin Showroom will not remain the last.
Lanvin Summer 2013 Accessories
Not only the good weather is a reason to look forward to summertime, but also Alber Elbaz’ new designs for the Lanvin Summer 2013 accessories collection. The key to the new classic, yet modern designs is a sense of purity and precision, defined by clear and geometrical shapes.
The new shoulder bag Partition features different kinds of leather in graphic shapes and golden metal plates as well as screws. It’s the perfect companion for any occasion. The Stiletto heel reflects traditional craftsmanship and its most innovative part is the mirrored heel. The shoe combines metal pieces with luxurious matte leather. Like the other accessories the jewellery also features a lot of gold. With its large shining surface, the Oracle reflects the beauty of the wearer and is only one piece of jewellery among a series of cuffs, rings, earrings and wide belts reminding of corsets.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-14
A massive globe was placed in the middle of the Chanel runway for the Fall/Winter 2013-14 show. Celebrating the opening of the first Chanel store one hundred years ago, the white Chanel logo was pinned onto the globe’s surface marking the location of 300 Chanel stores in cities all around the world. The show and collection displayed the power of the luxury fashion brand and none other than Karl Lagerfeld could phrase its theme better: "It’s a tribute to the global Chanel."
Even the floor of the Grand Palais had a the seven continents on it, so the models in Chanel’s garments were literally on top of the world. The collection had many dark shades to it – black, grey and navy instead of white and bright colours. Mini skirts, stand-up collars and skirts with unzipped zipper details played a huge part into the rebellious feel of the collection as did accessories such as clunky silver bangles, metal chains as necklaces and fingerless mesh gloves. Gold was replaced by silver, from metallic thread to steal chains gracing leather boots. Simple and clear A-line shapes were combined with overknee leather boots looking almost like leather leggings.
There were a variety of fabrics, but as always the classic Chanel bouclé and tweed still found their right place in the shapes of tailored jackets and coats. The double length coats – short in front, but with a below-knee tail – was one of the key designs of this season. The collection looked more contemporary than ever and yet again Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the strong self of the Chanel woman.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2013-14
The atmosphere of the Hermès Fall/Winter 2013-14 show resembled a romantic movie set inside place of the fashion show – the library of the Parisian Lycée Henri IV – with the models as its leading ladies. The French heritage of the Hermès fashion house and of its designer Christophe Lemaire showed in the chic and sophisticated designs of the collection.
Among them were ankle-length skirts, oversized blazers, V-neck jumpsuits, tailored trousers and a number of elegant white blouses. Leather for jackets and skirts was featured in all kinds of variations from croc leather to suede. The long and wide coats with stand-up collars were a highlight of the runway show. The trick of the styling was to casually layer coats, wearing high quality wool coats on top of large furry coats.
Many of the garments were adorned with black leather trims and various looks had black leather belts with classic golden buckles as accessories. The main colours were different tones of brown from dark brown to hazel, many shades of grey and of course black. Some accents of navy and bright red stripes brought a little more colour into the collection of clear shapes, which every woman can be looking forward to for the wintery season.
Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Lacoste creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptiste and design director Christophe Pillet have taken the label's tenacious crocodile far beyond the tennis court over the last two years. While Baptiste gives the sportswear an urban sensibility, Pillet, who heads Lacoste Lab, works to expand its reach.
Lacoste Lab revives the tradition of innovation, which the prolific Frenchman considers an integral part of the brand’s DNA. The products, mostly outdoor sports equipment, are created through collaborations with carefully-selected partners. Unlike other collaborations, however, the Lacoste brand remains
firmly in place. "These are Lacoste products. They're sold, promoted and designed by Lacoste, but produced by experts," says Pillet.
Pillet's team compiled a shortlist of up-and-coming, state-of-the-art sports brands. “We looked for the most innovative brands, the ones that could offer us real, contemporary technicality, but also the modern ones which are open-minded and enjoy collaborating," he says. "The choice wasn't so hard, because when you look at something like a motorcycle helmet, there's only about five or six brands that really stand out."
The Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection was developed with the young, thrill-seeking consumer in mind. New products include goggles created in partnership with Dragon Alliance, a football, rugby ball and volleyball created with Duarig, petanques with Obut, helmets with Design GPA, and skateboards and snowboards with Artprint and Salomon.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
A unique simplicity has always been one of the essential element of Jil Sander's designs. Her new Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection stays true to her minimalist approach to fashion and clear cuts structure her garments.
Overknee length skirts of flowy light fabrics are part of this year's Fall/Winter collection as are sleeveless dresses with pleat details and deep v-necks. Other tops feature a neckline that resembles a cross between a boat neck and a v-neck. Coats with large pockets and an oversize fit, either worn open or with a belt to accentuate waist and hips, are the highlight of this collection. Their colours vary from a range of blues including navy and azure blue to a bright orange and yellow.
The collection's finale is made up of a number of simple black bandeau dresses with minimalist golden stripes and elegant coats of thick wool and fur. It is the epitome of pure and simple elegance. The signature minimalist design of Jil Sander at its best once again.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
With this Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Miuccia Prada paid tribute to designs she personally liked. Unusual to Prada, it was a very personal approach to creating fashion. Flared coats with round buttons and knee-length skirts with asymmetric cuts were key pieces of the collection. Essential was also the accentuation of sleeves and their puffy look with either pleats or furry details.
The theme of gingham check of Prada's menswear was continued in the womenswear collection. Playful coats in white, light pink and soft blue as well as colourful weekend bags and shoppers were made out of checkered fabrics. Yet the feel of this collection was more mysterious than its menswear counterpart. Dresses and coats were slightly unbuttoned, zippers of jackets and skirts slightly unzipped. Necklines from shoulder free to V-neck were revealing a layered styling and the tender skin of the models. Fine brown crocodile leather as well as shiny gold and silver patent leather added a little more glamour to the collection, as if the dresses covered in black sequins and the luxurious fur coats were not enough.
The models with wet hair look walked their choreographed path accross the runway with sophistication and silhouettes of seducing women and straying cats were projected onto the walls. The inspiration to this Prada collection might have been more emotional than usual, but it still displayed perfection in every garment.
Machine-A Store Opening
13 Brewer Street just became the new London home of fashion store Machine-A. After months of preparation store owner Stavros Karelis and stylist Anna Trevelyan finally celebrated their store opening. “We're open! Come say hi!” says Machine-A's facebook page in all caps and invites new visitors to come and have a look at the new shop.
It's the store's aim to promote skilled designers and to support the uprising talents of tomorrow from the London as well as the international design scene. Besides the garments of designers such as Raf Simons, Agi & Sam, Chalayan, Louise Grey and Nashir Mazhar, the store will also offer a variety of accessories. One of the store's current treasures is the Fred Butler X Swatch watch. With many more interesting pieces to be offered by the store, a bright future lies ahead for Machine-A.
Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2013-14
The atmosphere of the Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show reminded of Russia in the beginning of the 20th century. Black caps and furry hats were worn by the models and they looked like they were part of the movie classic Doctor Zhivago.
The collection didn't really settle on one certain look and had many different facettes to it. Another theme that reappeared was that of sailor and navy wear with designs that resembled captain's jackets. The runway show started off with preppy ruffle blouses and bows, cableknit jumpers and turtlenecks, duffle capes and well-fitted coats, wide pants and flared high-waisted trousers, floor-length ruffled skirts and A-line leather ones – all in black and white.
Then came a series of colourful velvet dresses with puffy sleeves and clever details created by gathering of fabric. The velvet garments in red, purple, blue and green were accossorized with tapestry bags and paired with brown, black as well as grey cropped and longtail blazers. But the collection wouldn't be complete if it didn't end with a number of glamorous gowns. From creme tulle to deep red taffets dresses, from black gowns with leather pleats to blue velvet dresses with bejewelled necks, the variety of gowns vowed the audience and got them up their feet to end the show with standing ovations.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The new Miu Miu Spring/Summer Campaign was taken on by the photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Having shot many campaigns for fashion houses such as Dior or Yves Saint Laurent, this is yet another work to add to their long list of fashion films.
The campaign depicts seven women surviving in the modern world protrayed by important models of the current fashion scene, including Adriana Lima and Bette Franke. On the one hand these women seem strong and confident in furry frocks and leather gloves, on the other hand they look fragile and alienated in thin slip dresses. Their whispering, secrets and close relationships empower them, while they long for a retreat and a chance to daydream at the same time.
Especially Bette Franke leaves an impression, featured with fiery red hair and pale skin. The model reminds a lot of Monica Vitti's character in the Italian film “Red Desert” from 1964 by Michelangelo Antonioni. Isolation in the industrial world is one of the central themes of the movie and the same topic is challenged again with the stunning visuals created by Inez & Vinoodh.
Raf Simons and Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2013
After successfully launching his Dior Haute Couture collection earlier in January, Raf Simons’ new collaboration is just around the corner – with Fred Perry. The designer’s vision meets commercial fashion and spices up the traditional tenniswear. The campaign’s first teaser video was just released.
Three young men find themselves in a white spaceless place. In slow motion they are swinging their arms around and bobbing up and down the video’s frame as if they were performing a very slow dance. With their soft hair and pure skin they look like lost boys. Jump cuts harmonize with the choppy electronic music of screeching sounds and cracking noise. Stressed and scared facial expressions give the video a tense atmosphere, which is in a way contrasting the smooth look of the classic Fred Perry polo shirt.
Eccentric leopard patterns in grey and rusty-red as well as bold blue-black houndstooth patterns cover the shirts, while the collars often stay in a classic black. In other frames of the teaser, the shirts are worn in a layered fashion and colourful collars compete with each other. To truly pay tribute to the collaboration even the logo has changed: Not Fred Perry’s name but the one of Raf Simons is written below the brand’s signature laurel wreath.
Pointer and COMME des GARÇONS Spring/Summer 2013
After last year's successful COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT and Pointer Footwear collaboration, they are pooling their talents once again for the new Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The classic Benjamin model is coming back in bright colours to be worn on sunny summer days.
Two different tri-coloured variations of the Benjamin will be available instead of the usual unicoloured model. One of the variations features a soft pink and an azure blue, while the other one features a deep green and luscious red.
The design of the shoe resembles a classic Derby or Blucher shoe, but at the same time it also passes as sportswear with its white slightly wedged cupsole. Looking dapper and athletic at the same time the shoe is easy to wear to many different occasions. All in all a relaxed yet smart package.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Provocations is the title of Calvin Klein’s Spring 2013 ad campaign and its star is Alexander Skarsgard. The Swedish actor most known for his role as1000-year old vampire in HBO’s True Blood appears alongside the Finnish model Suvi Koponen.
The Scandinavian couple is hot and sweaty wearing tight jeans in one scene, staring coldly at each other dressed in chic suits in the next. The entire campaign contains contrasting elements: Roaring fire in contrast to still black water surfaces. Modern symmetric architecture as the complete opposite of a shabby room furnished with an old TV set. Slow motion effects are used throughout the whole 10-minute clip, making fire explosions and the shattering of glass walls even more spectacular. The tiniest turquois glass splinters seem to be floating weightlessly through the air.
Each segment of the ad campaign has a different title: Part III. is entitled Wasting Time with Koponen daydreaming and chilling on the floor in a pair of skinny jeans. End Game is the name of another part with Skarsgard wearing a white suit and slowly lighting a match while staring at Koponen across the room. The campaign promotes garments, jeans and accessories by Calvin Klein all at the same time. The director of the film is Fabien Baron.
Stone Island S/S 2013 Night Glow Jacket
Some garments of the Stone Island Spring/Summer 2013 collection have a special feature: The ability to glow in the dark. Luminescence techniques have always been fascinating and now Stone Island is pushing them forward with their recent inventions.
The key to the glowing fabric is an extraordinary double-layered polyester piqué that captures light and reflects it when worn in complete darkness. A membrane inserted into the fabric prevents water and wind from entering and makes the jacket a perfect garment to wear outside on a dark and stormy night. Twelve items from hooded jackets over cardigans to waistcoats carry the glow in the dark fabric.
Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14
Golden light flooded the Galerie Thomas Schulte reminding of a setting sun when the Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14 show took over the space during Berlin Fashion Week. The presentation of the German-French label’s new collection was more than a mere runway show, but an installation entitled Somewhen lasting for about two hours.
The title refers to the mix of ethnic influences from different cultures and times. Interesting headpieces such as turbans, broad-brimmed hats with fluffy pompoms or tight hoods with sparkly fringes catch the eye at once. The collection is all black and features diverse fabrics from black leather to delicate see-through fabric including sequin or furry details.
The models’ nude make up and stern facial expressions put all emphasis on the garments and create a mysterious vibe at the same time.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
In John Varvatos' new campaign two generations of guitar virtuosos meet: For once it features the legendary rock guitarist Jimmy Page from Led Zepplin, undoubtedly one of the greatest rock and roll bands of all times. The 28-year old Gary Clark Jr. is his counterpart, a young emerging musician, who released his debut album last Fall and has already been widely praised for his talents as a guitarist, a singer and a songwriter.
“Having 'The Master' and the 'Young Guitar-Slinger' together in our campaign is a dream come true”, says the designer John Varvatos himself. The brand has ever since had an affinity for stylemakers within the rock'n'roll scene.
Photographer Danny Clinch captures the two musicians in a classic black and white portrait. Its simplicity gives the image even more impact. The scenery of the campaign is the famous 1950's concert venue Rivoli Ballroom in South London, where music legends like Tina Turner used to perform. The video clip was shot there as well and is worth taking a look at.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
Everything looks geometric. A clear structure is the key to the Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Inspired by the modernist Bauhaus architecture and design, the garments are equally well structured.
Pumping beats and a robotic voice serenaded the models' static walk down the runway, who resemble robots themselves. Square patterns and necklines are key elements of the collection and appear everywhere. Soft cashmere and wool yarns are woven into contradicting rectangular patterns.
All in all the collection has a very modern and sporty feel to it. Apart from black and beige, the dominant colours are a bright red, a shiny yellow and a deep blue. Back to the primary colours, back to the roots.
Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
For the Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2013 the Parisian Grand Palais was transformed into a forest: It seemed like tall trees had grown out of the floor surrounding a beautiful amphitheatre overlooking the whole scenery. On a winding path the models made their way through the forest looking stunningly elegant – in thigh high boots out of silver leather or toeless delicate lace.
Through the whole collection an accent on the the neck and the shoulders can be seen. Necklines below the shoulders show a bare neck as a sign of pure and gracile beauty, but square applications on the shoulders and upper arms give the upper body a contrary strong look. Long sequin covered gowns, tulle and lace hems are essential parts of the collection as well. While the show started off with fabrics such as tweed and bouclé, the show finishes of with dresses made of thousands of feathers complementing the feathery hairpieces of the models and the birdsong heard among the trees.
The presentation of the wedding dress makes a clear statement about the ongoing disputes concerning the legalization of gay marriage in France. Only two weeks back hundreds of thousands of people demonstrated near the Eiffel Tower opposing gay marriage, but yesterday two models in the same wedding dress were holding each other's hands while walking down the runway. Lagerfeld's godson accompanied both of them and gave expression to the designer's thoughts on gay marriage and gay parents raising children.
Cerruti 1881 Fall/Winter 2013-14
What do you get when an Italian founds and builds a house in Paris? The answer, today, was Cerruti 1881. Long coats in classic colours - black, navy, and camel - were elegant and looked made to match anything. But details - like buttons lining up slyly in the back, a few inches from the hem upwards; or leather-trimmed lapels that in black felt dramatic - were a touch of rebelliousness that felt in line with Paris collections.
Black coats, one in a formfitting suede with a mandarin collar, and another one hooded and loose enough to hide in, added to an aesthetic that seemed to be on a quest for individuality. Subdued sweaters and trousers - ‘basics’ - then reigned this spirit in. And so teetering on a line between very wearable and and a tad bit developmental, the show came to a close, leaving the question of where new designer Aldo Maria Camillo will take the brand in the future.
John Richmond Fall/Winter 2013-14
For Fall/Winter 2013-14, John Richmond got his inspiration from unknow pleasures. The collection was mostly focused on clean lines and geometric silhouettes with influences from sport and a feeling of utility. The combination of natural wool, tailoring and prints on the knitwear defines John Richmond, and makes the collection one to remember.
Drykorn Fall/Winter 2016
A touch of 60’s, 70’s and 80’s lays in the new men and women’s collection of Drykorn. The firm takes us a fashion trip back to the past with its new Fall/Winter Collection 2016. Inspired by the Detroit of the 70’s the men’s collection has large collars, broad lapels and flaps that come to the fore once again. Soft materials like velvet, corduroy and wool jerseys play an important role and emphasize the look of the natural, warm color shades like beige, cognac and rust. As an opposite pole to the unconventional ready-to-wear production, the focus of the collection lies on authenticity and heritage styles. Robust lambskin jackets, cut off raw denims and corduroy shirts cater for a solid work wear style. The collection focus on the silhouette and oversized jackets are combined with low crotch pleated pants. In the women’s collection Fall/Winter 2016 the highlight is the comeback of the bohemian chic with a focus on playful mix of colour, material and pattern. The ‘’Mod Look‘‘of the 60’s also celebrates a revival with mini dresses and skirts in leather in combination with high neck blouse and biker jacket. In terms of colours orange is the new black and delicate grey and pure white can be found in the classic patterns like glen check, herringbone or pinstripe. The ‘’Bad Taste Spirit‘‘of the 80’s comes to life again. Sportswear unites with glitter and it is paired with wild leopard patterns in indigo blue and dark green. Waist?high is the name of the game when it comes to military and skinny pants. Draperies, Victorian elements and little details cater for the romantic twist that is presented in velvet, lace and nappa leather establishing the ‘’Gothic’’ trend. DRYKORN represents premium processings and high quality materials. The Credo is: perfection of the nonchalance which is reflected in every production step.
BOSS Pre-Fall 2016
Rigorous, precise, focused. Natural, but abstract. Luxurious – and classic. With the Pre-Fall Lookbook 2016, Jason Wu has unveiled another cutting edge collection that comprises sophisticated looks with a modern and noiseless message. Whether it's with the slim coat, the A-line skirt or the pant, Wu re-engineers new classic into a contemporary wardrobe for the BOSS woman.
Business and leisure are balanced out equally, with a Hitchcockian flair contrasting the image of sportswear. As often, Wu is keen to incorporate a flair of menswear and does so in applying metal rings and fastenings, which simultaneously suggest a vibrant and energetic feel. Even if this collection is a red carpet for simplicity and urbanity, Wu still does not cease to go down a more lighthearted route and inserts floral patterns that in their assembly allude to camouflage.
The key element of functionality is furthermore not only highlighted in Bauhaus inspiration but also in flat shoes and other understated accessories. It's rigorous, it's precise, it's focused – BOSS just knows how to wrap a collection.
Versus Versace Fall 16
With its Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Versus Versace has unleashed a collection that is marked by toughness and an almost invincible spirit. Revisited camouflage prints, zip-up bombers, coats and cargo pants define the season for both men and women and embody the strong attitude that lies beneath this collection. For women, Versus plays with tomboy toughness by including loose fit jeans and flat ankle boots in the range. As camouflage is reimagined with the Versus lion head, the camo shirt meanwhile becomes the new city essential for the man. Both lines include pieces with a fierce attitude, such as a fur-collared blouson in menswear or a diamond slashed lingerie top for women. The urban conquest has been a sub-theme for a number of collections these past season and this collection sees Versus Versace join the trend wagon. Whether you need to fight the city jungle or just want to top off your fearlessness – Versus Versace is the gear to chose.
CHANEL Fall/Winter 2016
A trip inside the mind of Karl Lagerfeld must feel like an hourlong guided tour through the world's biggest museum. His creative mind, or the ones behind it, is like an infinite archive with multiple crossings, shortcuts and junctions. Therefore, it is no surprise that even after decades, the maestro still finds a way to put a spin on the very, very classic brand that is CHANEL. Still, a CHANEL presentation these days sometimes holds more surprise in the setting than in the fashion on display. This time, though, Lagerfeld stepped away from themes and backdrops and onto the “real” runway. On there, he showed classic CHANEL elements, from tweed-tops to tartan trousers, and one everlasting classic accessory: the impeccable, traditional CHANEL pearl necklace, worn in multiple layers on numerous looks. Topped off with a French twist on a bowler hat, it's maybe the accessories that deem this collection contemporary. However, the choice of colors also checks off everything that is on the line for this season: starting off with shades and combos of pink, the collection then moves onto dark blues and greys, to a range of beige and nude tones, only to end with a – what else- classic rendition of black-and-white looks. That trip to Lagerfeld's mind really must be quite the voyage. Where do we sign up?
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2016
When a Creative Director departs his position at a well renowned fashion house, there is a certain fear that lingers in the air prior the presentation of the first collection without him/her. This was most likely the case at Lanvin's latest fashion show, where the gathering crowd seemed to hold their breath before the first foot was set on the runway. It was the debut reveal since the leaving of Alber Elbaz and certainly marked the start onto new paths and into new directions. These are led by a collective of designers that for the time being has taken over the seat left by Elbaz. What they presented was a collection defined by symbolic elegance, embodied by high-necked garments alluding to ruffled blouses of past eras and a broad spectrum of cuts and fabrics, ranging from 80s-cut, asymmetric shimmer tops to sheer, double layered lavender dresses. There are a handful of paths Lanvin could set upon, for this collection has no distinctive one to itself. There were ruffle-inserted dresses with floral print patterns, but also beaming golden trench coats and lacy ensembles. It seems almost as if the customer herself could select the direction of Lanvin - which prompts us to ask: what choice would you make?
Lemaire Fall/Winter 2016
At Paris' École de Medecin, the presentation of Lemaire's Fall/Winter designs had a clean spirit to it. Not, as one may conclude, as in white doctor gowns and sterile objects (due to the choice of location), but clean in a sensual and stylish way, paying tribute to past decades with only so little references. This collection was basically just black-and-cream white, there is no other way of putting it. Once every now and then, a splash of color in a shoulder strap bag or a boxy, grey jacket may interrupt the monochrome, but overall, Christophe Lemaire and his work/life-partner Sarah Linh-Tran stuck to the simple aesthetic. There were button rows that remind of dotted lines in documents, subtle pleats and not-so-subtle puffy sleeves on knitted sweaters (here chimes in the Elizabethan reference). Limitedly messy hairstyles emphasized the nonchalant attitude, while the models' strut down the catwalk still emphasized the core confidence to this collection. For Lemaire, this Fall/Winter 2016 is wrapped, or, to put it medically, operation complete.
Diesel Black Gold Women F/W 16
Back in January, Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad started down the road to complete and utter urbanity. His menswear designs were an allusion to bike couriers, to the fast pace of the city and its mystery. Now, the womenswear line presents the perfect companion. The attitude is industrial, dark, nocturnal even. Melbostad creates a contrast between the raw and the decorative by juxtaposing various materials such as leather, denim, nylon and felt. Just like the menswear designs, this collection incorporates a dynamic feel to help the wearer blend perfectly into the urban space. Surely helpful in this was Melbostad’s utilitarian inspiration, among others visible in tall, lace-up biker and combat boots. The Black Gold collection is sharp, cool, but not minimalistic. Biker leather jackets and felt peacoats come with an unexpected inlay of quilted nylon blankets – a design that strikes in its surprising stylishness. The Diesel woman will be well equipped on her trip through the urban mystery, and we’re about to follow her. If we can keep up.
No. 21 Fall/Winter 2016
No. 21 stays down to earth. The brand's latest designs are not only actually ready to wear, but carry earthy and natural colors in the true sense of the word. At Milan Fashion Week, the show was opened with models sporting slippy dresses and slouchy sweaters in rusty tones or with delicate flower prints. Combined with ochre tones and subtle greys, the first half of the collection is a casual nod to everyday life –without getting boring, of course. However, for those seeking a little more wild life, the collection has a pattern in store that is quite the rare occurrence this season: leopard print. The wildlife reference was used in the fabrication of coats and jackets, whereas other pieces of this section come in full beach-print, with palm trees blowing in front of an overcolored sunset. Part 3 of the collection in a way is more classic, with just a little twist. Pattern-wise, multicolored checks are no rebellion, but it is their assembly and usage in the making of patched coats and a layered baby doll dress that makes them special. As with every good collection, there's one piece dancing out of line: a brown-and-white fur coat with an oversized silhouette makes for this season's surprise moment. As said before, down to earth does not mean boring. For reference, see No. 21.
Gucci F/W 2016
When in Milan, the curtain fell for Gucci’s Fall/Winter presentation, the crowd most likely let out a small gasp. The collective thought couldn’t have been but one: he’s done it again. Alessandro Michele once more let loose his eclectic fantasy and spread out a message of reinvented history, reassembled patterns and colorful combinations. Now, with any other designer, that might have circled in the realms of boredom, but not with signore Michele. One twist on these new designs is the collaboration with a ghost. Not a literal one, of course. Gucci cooperated with the GucciGhost, also known as artist Trevor Andrew. Among the entity, he is known for his work with the double-G Gucci logo, which he has incorporated in vintage clothing, decoration pieces, graffiti and wall art. In Fall 2016, his designs grace furry Gucci coats and handbags. Now, how does one summarize the rest of this collection? It stays Michele’s secret how he does it, but each time, the designer manages to keep his eclectic mix in line, forming a more than exciting wardrobe. This collection has everything: from floral print to fluffy ruffles, preppy looks to Paris style, Asian patterns to A-list ball gowns. Alessandro Michele has done it again, and there’s nothing left to do but applaud.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
Paul Smith Women F/W 16
The Fall/Winter 2016 season sees Paul Smith once again turn towards the past. The British designer is the master of archive work and reinvention, and so it comes as no surprise that he applied it once again to his latest designs. The garments resemble a walk through an archive closet, with Paul Smith creatively picking his inspirations here and there. This time, they start in a very private closet: the one of his wife Pauline. Smith creates the image of a handsome woman with a nod to the sophisticated femininity he originally created from his men collections. Smith goes back to the 1970s and 80s, back when he was just starting out. From the latter decade, he takes the photo-print of an eaten apple and reworks it into prints, embroidery and appliqués in various scales. He also makes a halt at his own closet and takes on bicycle breeches. Those are met with raglan-sleeved coats and embroidered pleat dresses. Regarding accessories, the designer once again goes “way back”: all bags are equipped with new locks, taken from an old Paul Smith briefcase. Rework, revamp, refurbish – however Paul Smith does it, the journey to the past is always an exciting one.
Hood by Air RTW Fall 2016
If you’re looking to find Hood by Air’s latest Fall/Winter designs, have a look at the baggage claim at your local airport. At New York Fashion Week, models found their runway turned into a baggage band when their garments were adorned with tags usually tied to suitcases at the drop-off. Another top featured the suitcase plastic wraps also formerly known from the departure area, only this time turned into a bold fashion statement. To be fair, these references were the only ones alluding to flight traffic. If not for the title, Hood by Air’s collection is more a political art statement than Ready-to-wear fashion. Designer Shayne Oliver once again crossed gender borders, made shapes and classic cuts irrelevant and boots, either oversized or shiny and red, the center of footwear. Hood by Air’s latest designs are refreshingly rebellious and creative in a surrounding where rebellion often means changing the direction of a seam. Needless to say, if we found the collection at the baggage claim, there’s no way we would return it to the lost-and-found office.
Alexander Wang RTW F/W 2016
St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February: Marijuana leaves, pole dancers and chained leather are assembled in the church aisles. Coming from every angle are words like “strict”, “tender”, “girls”, “faded” and “violator”. This scenery is by far no church service, but the presentation of Alexander Wang’s latest Fall/Winter designs. Displaying garments anything but holy, the designer sent down the runway rebellious garments that set upon the popular “sloganeering”. Hats, sweatshirts, dresses and tights call out the aforementioned key words in this collection, crossing over both mens – and womenswear. Going along with that are fuzzy sweaters as much as see-through tops and dresses and more classic tweed ensembles. Still, Wang takes on a little bit of Prep with reinvented Argyle sweaters (with exposing parts, of course) and a checkered coat in menswear. Although we’re not sure what the priest would say about this, in St. Bartholomew’s Church, New York, in the middle of February, the applause spoke for itself.
Wind and Rain: Woolrich S/S 2016
With their latest campaign, Woolrich is set. Set for wind, set for rain, set for almost every weather change the Spring/Summer season can hold. Shot by artistic photographer Paolo Ventura, the visuals take the models through a climate change that is displayed by fake painted panels. They pose clad in the latest Woolrich designs, showcasing both mens – and womenswear. For his now fourth collaboration with the brand, Paolo Ventura chose to narrate stories within each picture, equipping the models with accessories that are not part of the collection. At first glance, the fishing rod, helmet or binoculars may be startling, but they do inspire the viewer to enhance the pictures with stories in mind. The fashion designs meanwhile range from light quilted jackets to dark trench coats in womenswear and elegant anoraks and vests in menswear. Woolrich presents itself summery – but also weatherproof. And that, in fact, is not a wild fashion imagination. Even though the campaign might show fake climates, Woolrich takes the Spring/Summer season as few do: realistic.
RedValentino Spring/Summer Campaign feat. Birdy
She’s the girl with the angel voice, the delicate songstress that made hits at an age where others were concerned with anything but landing record deals: Birdy. Now, the 19-year old British singer has been tapped for a fashion campaign. Valentino sublabel REDValentino cast the singer as their new testimonial. The scenery takes her to London’s Edwardian theater Bush Hall. In the dimly-lit setting, Birdy moves like the grande dame, or as Valentino puts it, a modern-day Marie Antoinette. Never dropping her ethereal and dreamy attitude, she poses on a piano in shiny black gear or takes the stage dressed in a floral see-through dress. “I love the enchanted world of REDValentino and the romantic dresses that have always been associated with the brand, so I was delighted to be part of this collaboration and to have my music in the campaign” Birdy gushed over the campaign. By her music she means her song Winter playing in the background, supporting the both romantic and magical atmosphere. Least to say, we’re enchanted, too.
The campaign is launched exclusively on www.redvalentino.com.
Lala Berlin: Persian Queen Goes Berlin Vol. 2
If you want to do it right, do it twice. Leyla Piedayesh, designer of Lala Berlin, made her latest F/W 16 collection stand out even more in presenting it twice – in two completely different places. Even though the collection's theme is “Persian Queen Goes Berlin”, the designer chose to host her runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. As a matter of course, Piadayesh did not neglect her hometown. At Berlin Fashion Week, she had already presented the collection with a special mirror installation and an exclusive film. In the now following classic runway show, the “Persian Queen” went for a strut down the catwalk clad in designs that were inspired by ancient cultures – two in particular. The antique Persian town Persepolis performed a major inspiration to Piedayesh. Animal and fairytale statues are reflected in print motifs while oriental elements are a nod to the designer's background. On another note, they also contrast with the collection's modern and street style vibe, formed by 3-D High-Low knitwear, a variety of outerwear and one-shoulder silhouettes. Asymetrical cuts and diagonal cutlines are playfully used to create a glamourous look that could also survive in fast-paced Berlin. To be fair, if Leyla Piedayesh's Persian Queen would enter Berlin, we're certain everyone would slow down for her. Anything else would be too much of a miss.
Keta Gutmane S/S 16
Hello from the outside: for Keta Gutmane, their latest SS16 collection is all about observation. Observation for the label creates a dialogue and builds a bridge between those who belong and those who were once lost. At Keta Gutmane, the outsider is never forgotten. For the new garments, the designers took loose inspiration from one of the greatest observers of all time: filmmaker Wim Wenders. Adapted to fashion, this inspiration translates into a combination of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary tailoring. To break it down even more: long oversized coats float along with sharply tailored poplin shirting. Fitted slim pants are teamed up with confident woolen blazers, whereas graphic trenchs are paired with coated cupro skirting. To not confuse the aesthetic, the collection is maintained by deep black and white, only occasionally interrupted by an expressive dash of checkered tartan. In conclusion, the collection forms are casually tailored silhouette that leaves the perfect room for observation. May it be from the inside, or the outside is of no importance. As Keta Gutmane said, we're always in a dialogue.
Balmain Pre-Fall 2016
If in 2016, a queen would have to hire a dressmaker, she would probably call up Olivier Rousteing. And after the reveal of his latest Pre-Fall collection, there is no doubt that the French designer would definitely be up for it. After all, his inspiration came from a time when there actually were queens with tailors belonging to the establishment. With the new designs, Olivier Rousteing takes us to the court of Versailles in the 18th century and into the boudouir of the legendary Madame Pompadour. Her sensual and elegant styles were a major influence to Rousteing, for in this collection, her signature silhouette finds itself in various riffs on the corset. Versailles opulence finds reflection in the luxurious fabrics like a variety of cashmeres, Jacquards, silks and paisleys. Madame Pompadour was known as a lover of details, so the tailor delivers beaded fringes, hanging tassels, thick ruffles and bold gold accents. Still, it's not just a history lesson Rousteing teaches us. Balmain is made for the modern woman, the confident fighter who is inspired by the bravery of the likes of Madame Pompadour. If we'll meet her, we'll curtsy. It seems the only right thing to do.
CHANEL Couture Spring/Summer 2016
One could say that haute couture in its traditional realm is nothing to be worn while on a walk. As often, Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t think so. For CHANEL, he created a collection that illustrates a walk in the park, a stroll in style while the spring sun shines upon your head. It is with an atmosphere of calmness and serenity that the models take their steps down the catwalk, outside the coulisse of a large wooden house. They present elegant garments defined by natural colors. Several beige tones, according to Lagerfeld, refer to Gabrielle Chanel being the “Queen of beige” while natural dark colors like black and dark blue are sprinkled throughout the collection. Lagerfeld found the starting point for these designs in the silhouette, playing with inverted volumes by creating short tweed jackets with oval sleeves, paired with sleek pencil skirts. Of course, CHANEL’s stroll trough the park shouldn’t be too wild, as materials such as chiffon or rhinestone-embroidered fabrics could be too easily damaged. But then again, keeping the contenance is CHANEL’s specialty, isn’t it?
Baldessarini F/W 16/17
Baldessarini caters to the confident man about town, providing him with classic and elegant wardrobe staples rather than trendy throwaways. Key to success are craftsmanship and high-end materials, combined with a sustainable production centered in Europe. By no means is Baldessarini’s FW 16/17 collection old-fashioned though: Yes, designs are predictably dapper. Why would you change a running system? Here and there, noticeably younger items turned the collection on it’s ear: rough leather pants, sheepskin jackets, sweats with smart jackets and ties all carried a youthful vibe onto that runway. Aside from sweaters, turtlenecks were big, worn under crisp button-downs or suits. For one-stop shoppers, the label offers a complete range including scarfs, gauntlets and hats. Stripes and checks livened up an otherwise muted color palette of black, grey, blue, green, oxblood and beige, adding some well-received youthfulness to Baldessarini’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin debut.
Vladimir Karaleev Fall/Winter 16/17
For his first show during MBFWB since July 2014, Vladimir Karaleev hit a high note with his intricate construction and easy breezy styling. His expertly crafted, sculptural designs were set in a presentation rather than a runway show – a no-brainer considering Karaleev’s pieces are more of an art installation than a nod to fast fashion. His FW 16/17 designs combine touches of cubism, mod-style and origami, resulting in exciting plays on volume, fabrics, and personal style. Each piece is in itself glorious and intriguing, yet full of possibilities in terms of combination. Grey, black, midnight blue and petrol, deep magenta, mauve and mustard could easily be overwhelming, yet Vladimir Karaleev has nuance and the masterful eye of an artist. Here’s to hoping he won’t hold out on us for another season or two.
McQ's Goes Clubbing With Nan Goldin
Strobe lights blur the sight; distant beats make the heart hammer. People are rushing through the crowd; the occasional flash of a camera interrupts the lights. The scene at McQ's new SS16 campaign sees legendary photographer Nan Goldin on the hunt. She follows models through the location at McQ's own McQ x WARP night, creating pictures that speak her unique language while also submitting a very realistic and “close” atmosphere. Shot in other parts on location in Spitalfields, London, the campaign does not only emphasize Goldin's style of work but also empowers the brand image of McQ as a rebellious, youthful, but highly contemporary brand. All of that -come to think of it - in “just” a few pictures. We feel like we’re coming along. With Nan Goldin tracking our every move. We’re in!
MP Massimo Piombo Fall/Winter 16/17
Blue is the great clarifier, blue makes all the other colors beautiful. MP Massimo Piombo has fallen in love. Blue is the “grande amore” in their latest Fall/Winter 16 collection. While the classic color is in favor, the label also experiments with, well, pretty much everything. For Piombo, there are no limits in their dynamic designs. The ideas are realized with fabrics from Nothern Europe (Scandinavia) and Old Europe (Austria, France, Belgium). The objective is to merge together allure and functionality, to create a concept of sensation and emotions free from restriction and prejudice. The result comes in form of a literal world of coats, jackets and knits that follow the brand’s values of refinement, vitality, variety, dignity and – eroticism. There are no limits to experiments, and for Massimo Piombo, we wouldn’t ever want there to be.
Kiton Menswear Fall 16/17
They say you can’t do everything at once, but Kiton sure can. With their latest F/W menswear collection, the label crossed off every possible category one could feature in a collection: sartorial, thermal, denim, sportswear and accessories. Each subline has it’s own revolutions – and together, they form a wholesome collection. The tailoring’s masterpiece is a three-piece suit with vest highlight. A jacket gets a new outline with exclusive blends of cashmere borrowed from knitwear. Special attention is drawn to pants, which the label offers in a rich selection of cotton corduroy. Thermal wears brings on the CUTLO project and presents three jackets, overcoats and sports jacket that ensure a perfect balance between detail and performance. Kiton dubs it “the first sartorial thermal outerwear”. Denim comes in organic cotton with up to eight processes of washing. Sportswear and accessories are equally as diverse, with a sportswear capsule collection devoted to skiing and accessories ranging from backpacks and duffels to crocodile leather shoes. They say you can’t satisfy everyone, but Kiton sure can.
Versace Opens Doors in Berlin
January 19th, 2016 saw a crowd of 400 sophisticated guests make their way to one Berlin address: the Kurfürstendamm, number 194. Here, Italian luxury brand Versace opened the doors of their new 350 square metre boutique with a special cocktail celebration. Among the crowd were several famous faces from the German culture scene, ranging from Iris Berben’s son Oliver to fashion darlings such as model Franziska Knuppe. The store itself beholds the label’s latest Ready-to-wear collections as well as accessories. Donatella Versace herself developed the store concept in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert. Customers will have the privilege to walk on mosaic floors, inspired by Byzantine churches of the Ninth Century, and surrounded by Perspex walls. As Donatella Versace puts it: “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight. For me the boutique suggests an uninterrupted dialogue between our past and our future, between me and Jamie Fobert and obviously between Versace and our clients”. We’re off to Berlin!
Raf Simons Reveals: Spring/Summer 16 Ad
When Raf Simons closed a door, another one finally swung wide open. It's an odd saying – but it's true. After having left Dior in what was an unintentional kick-off to several changes in the fashion industry, Simons turned his back on French fashion houses and focused on his own line. And it's not just one door that has opened for him, in fact, it seems like Simons is standing in a metaphorical corridor, with multiple doors open to his side. Almost parallel to the presentation of his F/W 16 looks at Paris Men's Fashion Week, the designer revealed his advertising campaign for the Spring/Summer season. The visuals, shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo, consist of 8 pictures, most of them black and white, and illustrate a daunting scene in an abandoned park setting. One of the models is obscured by a full facial mask but not afraid to express their affection towards the counterpart. The looks feature repeated prints, expanded silhouettes and sleeveless tops. The time to be wearing them might actually be quite a bit away - but who knows which door Raf Simons will have opened by then.
Y/Project’s Eclectic Darkness
Industrial techno and cold wave sounds bounce through the Le Gibus in Paris. Backstage, models get in line, rearrange their look and get ready for entering the void. It’s time for Y/Project’s F/W collection. The French label presented their latest designs at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in a rather gloomy but fascinating setting. Through the darkness, models walked dressed in an eclectic mix of industrial, medieval and classic French styles. For his 5th collection with Y/Project, head designer Glenn Martens found inspiration in films like the The Lost Boys or My Own Private Idaho. His creative process was a transformation of these inspirations into the key pieces that were presented on the Paris runway: washed and frayed denim pullovers and trousers, multi-zip bombers and shearling patchwork jackets. Harris tweed trench coats meet bustier dresses, snake-skin print hoodies and pants converge with oiled cotton bondage jackets. Such an eclectic mix provides wardrobe choices for an even broader audience. Just don’t get lost in the darkness.
Versace Men F/W 2016
Versace certainly isn’t only known but also loved for their eccentricity. For decades, the creative minds behind the brand have proved to be unlimited in their creative innovation. With the latest menswear collection, introduced at Milan’s Men Fashion Week, Creative Director Donatella Versace presented yet another take on their anything-but-quiet attitude. For the latest designs, the Italian brand shot off into space. It’s Versace-on-the-mars with futuristic metallic looks, astronaut-inspired sweatshirts and astrological prints. Additionally, the collection features all that is in style on planet earth right now: tracksuits, MA-1 jackets, cropped leather jackets and, of course, just the right amount of denim. “The Versace man is a pioneer, his ambition as big as the universe. This is a collection for men who are totally real, totally bold and totally connected with the future.”, Donatella Versace commented. Houston, we don’t see a problem here!
Antonio Marras F/W16 Collection
Cowboys, Indians, gold prospectors, saloon girls. Tumbleweeds, dusty roads, no life in sight, apart from a few wild horses, lizards and the occasional mosquito buzzing near your ear. We’re thinking of the Wild West, thinking of Colorado, maybe, or some nameless town in the outskirts of the US. We’re wrong. Antonio Marras has taken the latest collection to the West, but it’s not western at all: the location in mind is in Sardinia. Illustrating the picture of a rural ghost town, the brand reinvented the motif of the Wild West by dislocating it to the Italian south. Inspired by this abandoned place in Sardinia, the designs feature a new take on the cowboy look with mélange sweaters, plaid trousers and a lot of checks. Intarsia shirts and velvet trousers dislocate the traditional idea of Wild West as much as the actual location. They are teamed up with patchwork jeans or denim overalls, biker jackets or floral jacquard fabrics. Colors range from moss, forest and military greens to red and mustard, forming an eclectic mix for a collection that can’t possibly be narrowed down to one definition. There is no need for definition, though, as we know, that with a Wild West in Sardinia, the things are not what we define them as anyway. Open your mind to new definitions. Antonio Marras certainly does.
Marni Men Fall/Winter 2016
Marni’s Fall/Winter 2016 is a swift motion between balanced elegance and subtle rebellions against clothing classics. On one hand, the brand presents soft and elegant silhouettes and suggests intimacy with this collection’s number one theme: wrapping. On the other hand, raw cuts also convey strength. Suits are still precisely tailored and the use of fur provides some texture. Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a fashion collection by the first impression. Caps and sneakers that contradict the elegance of the garments make another break in balance. The collection’s color palette adds in elegance and subtleness with blues, greens, burgundy, ochre and light blue. We told you it was a swift movement. And with Marni, you just go along easily.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign
Emporio Armani gets it moving: the images for their latest SS16 campaign are in, and they are anything but static. Captured by Lachlan Bailey in the buzzing streets of Barcelona, models Luna Bijl and Filip Hrivnak are shown in physically demanding poses, posing as the fierce, self-confident woman or the ever-charismatic gentleman. Bailey used a telephoto lens, usually known from nature photography, to capture the spontaneity and dynamism even more. The visuals convey a message of utter coolness and suggest that for Emporio Armani, the most thrilling summer lies ahead. The general look is a classic take on minimalist coolness, but some garments with graphic elements stir up the sophistication with a little irony. And for those who adore the Emporio Armani accessories, the campaign also has watches and eyewear in store. Now, if January makes you feel drained and moody right now, just look ahead to a dynamic summer – Emporio Armani will show you how.
Burberry at London Collections: Bowie Tribute
Burberry’s London Collections: Men show didn’t only include their latest designs in menswear, but transformed into probably the fastest tribute to the death of David Bowie. Coincidentally, the day of Burberry’s presentation had also been the day of Bowie’s passing. Models presented the garments with glitter on their face and Bowie’s name scribbled across their hands. With 2016 being the year Burberry announced as the unison of its three lines London, Brit and Prorsum, Christopher Bailey and his team went through the archive and got inspired by multiple eras from the late 19th century to the 1970s. This collection’s lovechild was the track top, worn either as outerwear or layered under typical Burberry coats. Colors were as varied as ever, ranging from warm moss greens to neon reds. Of course, with Burberry always being one of the most anticipated labels to present at LC:M, Bailey didn’t disappoint and joined this season’s train of military inspiration. And with a portfolio that diverse, there is no doubt that Mr. Bowie up in heaven would have been proud.
Photos: Marcus Tond/indigitalimages.com
Nasir Mazhar FW 2016
There are few things as fascinating and endless as the darkness. Its space of interpretation appears to be as vast as the darkness itself. Inevitably, the inspiration drawn from the dark is equally as tremendous. London designer Nasir Mazhar took this as a chance to dive into the deep and uncertain – and returns with his FW 2016 collection. His latest designs imagine a club world of individual characters, unified by darkness. A group that shifts in varying shades of black. Black - a color that ties together wide experiments in shapes and textures. Apart from this floating unison, each outfit stays an entirely separate project. Whether it’s strapped tops, crumpled looks or extraordinary headwear, Mazhir’s collection leaves as vast room for interpretation as the darkness. He recalls the creative freedom of his non-commercial, purely creative beginning. An approach that has been featured for the second consecutive season, as long-planned changes for the brand are set to be revealed. Who knows what they’re going to be – as for now, we only know that Mr. Mazhar sure loves a bit of uncertainty. Just like the darkness.
DIESEL Goes Emoji
The wink-face, the monkey, or rather just the thumbs up – what's your favorite emoji? Don't deny it, you have one. Emojis have become the new sign language, a universal communication system that everyone in the world can understand. Whereas other fashion labels in the past have taken this as an inspiration to paste the tiny symbols onto their clothing, DIESEL winks at us and creates their own emoji alphabet for their Spring/Summer 2016 campaign. At first sight, the visuals are clearly an established fashion campaign – but with the slogan comes the twist. „It's complicated“ is adorned with little couple symbols while the expression „holy denim“ is reinforced by – of course – a praying emoji. For DIESEL Creative Director Nicola Formichetti, this campaign is a comment on our digital culture, the absurdities that define our on- and offline life. The digital world is more real than reality and has become a next-level superpower. No part is to be disregarded: the moving intimates visuals will also play on the world’s most important porn sites. The campaign's faces are also no strangers to the digital world and it's open-minded spectrum. Model Stav Strashko, who was born male but identifies as a girl, rejoices in the gender diversity now most prominent in the digital world. Singer Joe Jonas poses alongside his colleague Kiko Mizuhara and his band DNCE. Now where did Formichetti find this pool of beaming faces? Your guess is correct, online. We clap our hands to that. Not literally. The emoji. You know.
Moschino feat. Gilbert & George: FW Men 16
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott might just be one of the most contemporary designers of our time. After having incorporated the world of fast food chains and Barbie dolls in his past designs, with the AW 16 menswear collection, he is onto the next collaboration. This time, only, it’s art. Scott met up with artist duo Gilbert & George and, after a round of tea, was granted full access to their artworks for the new Moschino collection. The designer jumped at the possibility and therefore included everything he could: the new designs feature collaged coats, knit cardigans and jackets with patches of the artists’ images of young men’s faces. Typography, words and phrases have also been taken along. Other garments are peppered with crucifix patches that refer to G&G’s 1982 art piece “Youth Faith”. According to Scott, everything in Gilbert & George’s work speaks to him, from the saturated colors to the slogans and provocative attitude. Well, this could just be a match made in heaven.
Neutral Party: Richert Beil FW15
Gender neutrality is the design world’s (current) darling. Labels little and large are trying their hand at unisex apparel, but that doesn’t mean they’re any good at it. So often it’s an indiscriminate approach they take, meeting the needs of many but flattering no one. But men and women are approaching a mid-point from two very different starting points; the solution cannot be one-size-fits-all. No, it takes a skilled eye and strident instinct to tailor a collection to both sexes with success – that’s where Richert Beil comes in. The brainchild of Berlin-based designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, the label lauds an erudite aesthetic irrespective of gender, sympathetic to the structural, social, and emotional subtleties that have so far mantled man and woman. Ankle-grazing slacks prove a universal staple – smart with a sexy sensibility. Knits take neutral but directional dimensions, sweaters understated in their elaboration, chunky tabards tossed over stitched skirts. Longline macs layer their enduring appeal over culottes, kilts, and tunics, while coltish calves are slicked by black stockings and bolstered with sturdy leather lace-ups. Now there’s a style to suit all.
Giorgio Armani Pre-Fall 2016 Collection
It’s time for the next Pre-Fall revelation. Next in line is the Italian master of tailoring, Giorgio Armani. Titled “Bohemian Rhapsody”, the new collection features everything from city chic to floral bohemian vibes. That’s right, it’s not all dreamy and mysterious: Armani stays right on track of time while referencing his own unique style with a cheeky wink. The Pre-Fall collection resembles the closet of a very stylish clique, with each member sporting her own, unique look. Very much the latest innovation comes in form of cut-just-above-the-ankle legwear, optionally also featured as cuffed pleated trousers. While certainly this supports a “city” vibe, floral dresses and fuzzy artistic coats bring the splash of bohemia. After all, variety is key. With this collection, Armani also keeps things quite casual – flowing valance dresses are combined with flat boots. If you opt for a more eye-catching look, check out the garments with shiny pinstripes. Finally, the collection is rounded up with the one fabric that should not be missing in a fall collection: elegant velvet. Now, without a doubt, we would love to have a look in that clique’s closet, too.
Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
Woolrich News & FW 16 Collection
The new year sparks big changes at traditional label Woolrich. Not only is the brand launching and revolutionizing its own products, but has some ambitious plans and changes in store. Regarding fashion, the two main themes for the FW 16 season are Technology and NoFur. For the latter, Woolrich underwent a nearly monumental change: the iconic Arctic Parka is released without the use of fur. The garment stays functional, but is revamped with a new hood design and color. Functionality is also highlighted in Woolrich’s cooperation with GORE-TEX, an icon in weatherproof clothing. The cooperation culminated in the relaunch of the “Mountain” parka and jacket. All of this happens in the realm of Woolrich label “Teton”, which features the brands Outdoor Technical Capsule Collection. And as if that wouldn’t suffice, Woolrich as a brand is headed for a worldwide market: the brand’s mother company “WP Lavori in Corso” presented an ambitious five-year plan that includes Woolrich Europe as an influencer for European and Asian markets as well as an expansion to 68 European stores until 2020. Now, that’s a motivated start to a new year!
Givenchy Launches SS 16 Campaign
New York, I love you! This declaration has become the inspiration for Ricardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy creation. The Spring/Summer 2016 campaign is his personal “Love card” to the city. Shot by Mert & Marcus in, of course, Manhattan, the campaign indeed focuses on love and our personal relationships. Following the three main messages Love, Gang and Family, the imagery features group photos of both new faces and Givenchy veterans. Clustered under the Manhattan sky, they present signature black & white looks with timeless elements such as lace and pinstripes. And, to reference love again, each picture is decorated with a handwritten quote by singer Anohni: “I am a child on the river and love waits downstream, a waterfall to steal my breath and change my mind”. Ricardo, we love you, too.
Ermenegildo Zegna Presents SS16 Advertising Campaign
What does masculine identity stand for these days? It’s 2015 – well, 2016 almost – and the masculine identity has once again shifted in the past year. Is it more fragile than ever – or have we finally settled into a state of relaxation? Italian heritage brand Ermenegildo Zegna has the answer – their latest Spring/Summer 2016 advertising campaign. The key lies in blending. Zegna forms a new, global aesthetic with a fusion of “new” and “old”. While still revolving in an overall angle around their heritage and DNA, relaxation is an addition to the brand’s values. This is why the campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh, features a row of self-aware, relaxed men posing in front of a simple, white background. Ermenegildo Zegna presents the new man: stylish, masculine – but contemporary. Main act of this set-up is actor and filmmaker Benn Northover – known for his role in the last two parts of Harry Potter as well as for his huge commitment to the independent film scene. For the Couture collection, the brand also settles into a lighter, more transparent atmosphere. Shades of “non-whites” are framed by optical whites and all-black looks. Next to the world of classic tailoring, the brand even sprinkles in a bit of colorful, informal attitude disguised as a relaxed take on the daily act of dressing up. Ladies and gentleman, get ready for 2016 – and the new Zegna man.
Fred Perry: Annual Traditions
With Christmas approaching faster each day, fashion brand Fred Perry takes a trip down memory lane to focus on what is most present this time of the year: annual traditions. Be it personal rituals, lists, journeys, even those late nights spent reminiscing – traditions are a vast field to explore. In support of their Annual Traditions campaign, this year’s festive season sees Fred Perry celebrate traditions with a short film narrated by English actress Vicky McClure. Focusing on social media, Annual Traditions invites fans of Fred Perry to post their own festive traditions adorned with the hashtag #AnnualTraditions. The campaign will also feature curated imagery all around traditions – which unmistakably are also a huge part of Fred Perry clothing. Nevertheless, celebrating rituals and routines does not only mean looking back: the brand’s slogan captures our traditions in their most true form: always different, always the same.
“Once and Forever”
Next week on December 1, Karl Lagerfeld will be revealing the CHANEL Métiers d’art collection in Rome’s legendary film studio complex, Cinecittà. As a prelude to the showing of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 collection, Lagerfeld will present his latest short film, “Once and forever”. With the aim to portray Gabrielle Chanel “through all stages of her life and the comeback in the 1950s”, current CHANEL muse, and face of the Paris-Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’art collection’s advertising campaign, Kristen Stewart will be embodying the label’s legendary founder alongside Geraldine Chaplin. The film itself takes place behind the scenes of costume tests and script meetings to tell the story of a lively film production with the aid of Jérémie Elkaïm, François Marthouret, Amanda Harlech, Jamie Bochert, Jake Davies, Baptiste Giabiconi and Laura Brown.
FENDI Reopens Rome’s Palazzo FENDI
This December FENDI are unveiling their completely refurbished Palazzo FENDI near Rome’s Spanish Steps. The five-storey building houses FENDI’s first boutique hotel alongside the Salon Privé, which is a luxurious apartment exclusively for VIP customers, and designed by the infamous Dimore Studio. Their largest flagship store accompanies the private residences after FENDI recently established their new headquarters in Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s EUR district.
Zadig&Voltaire Launch Candide Bag
Named after the Voltarian hero, the brand new Candide Bag is destined for cult status. Complete with biker quilting, a stitched Zadig&Voltaire logo and an off-centre padlock, Cecilia Bönström has designed an urban piece that symbolizes the label – think Parisian chic meets edgy rocker. If this wasn’t enough, the made-in-Italy, striking bag is realized with Fall/Winter versions, solidifying its iconic status for the label. Available in three sizes and a chic selection of red, black and khaki suede and leather, the Candide Bag fits the needs of the modern Zadig&Voltaire woman. We want.
Say Goodbye to Blood Diamonds
“All human beings are born free and equal in dignity”. It was December 10, 1948 when the U.N. proclaimed in Paris the “Universal Declaration of Human Rights” (UDHR). However, there are countless places in the world where basic, personal rights are not respected in any way.
Gilardy Jewels aim to tackle this head on and produce beautiful jewelry that does not come with the usual price tag of someone else’s integrity. In celebration of the UDHR, they create timeless pieces to be worn by everyone, from anywhere on any occasion, whilst supporting various organizations that fight for human rights, such as Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch. The Gilardy Human Rights collection consists of rings, charms, wristbands and bracelets, all made in a robust stainless steel. Free of nickel, this jewelry is extremely dermatologically friendly and its rings and engravings are manufactured by fairly employing disabled workers. Furthermore, for every ring or chain sold from the collection, Gilardy Jewels donate 5€ to the “Human Rights Watch" Organisation, for every bracelet they donate 3€. All in all, this unique label is giving their wearers something to be proud about, fine handcrafted jewelry that is complete with a conscious.
An enchanting exhibition, “Mademoiselle Privé” depicts the charm and creativity of the captivating Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld. Hosted at London’s Saatchi Gallery, the exhibition begins outdoors, in a beautiful English garden, designed by Harry and David Rich. A tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel, the contemporary garden is split into three sections: “Liberty”, “Boy Capel” and “Leo”…these symbolizing her free spirit, the love of her life and a symbol of her strength and astrological star sign.
Visitors are then invited to explore the very heart of CHANEL in an exhibition commemorating the things and places most dear to Gabrielle Chanel, with an emphasis on her and Karl Lagerfeld’s most inspired haute couture creations. Eighty three years after it was rejected by Britain’s Custom regulations, the 1932 “Bjoux de Diamants” Collection exhibits alongside CHANEL N°5.
The final chapter to this remarkable journey realizes itself as an 18th century garden, “Jardin à la Française”, inspired by the stained glass windows of the orphanage in which Gabrielle Chanel grew up and learnt the seamtress trade…This being the original home to the iconic, interlocking Cs of CHANEL.
“Madmoiselle Privé” is held at London’s Saatchi Gallery until November 1, 2015.
Rick Owens Unveils New Hollywood Boutique
With the aim to create something truly “Cecil B. Demille worthy”, a 450 square meter warehouse on La Brea, dating since the 1920s, has been renovated with the help of Owens’ long time architect-of-choice, Anna Tumaini.
Together they have created something outlandish and abstract, in a tribute to the epic biblical movies that Owens watched as a child. He claims these movies have proved huge to be huge sources of inspiration for him throughout his life with “doomed heroic purity in black and grey draped robes in huge, dusty marble temples”.
In representing this imagery, the La Brea boutique contains high ceilings, huge angular beams and the label’s signature fog glass tank, which by engulfing the room fills it with “a billowing ejaculation of fog every 5 minutes”. Not only this but there is also Owens’ own dramatic reinterpretation of a swimming pool that tantalizingly releases slow motion bubbles…The boutique is located in L.A. after all.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
The virtual age is taking over and Louis Vuitton is yet another label this season choosing to comment. Unlike his contemporaries however, Nicolas Ghesquière’s opinion is not one of doom or disaster but ferocity and strength.
Absorbed in a cyberspace setting, the look was digital and fierce. Military inspired leather jackets worn with metal textured mini skirts and chained platform sandals introduced a new wave of punks. Patchwork trousers with silver zippers reappeared throughout the show in various forms, whilst beaded knitwear provided a kind of protective armour.
The classic Louis Vuitton print was splashed sparingly on jacket sleeves whilst the ruched drawstring bag in look 45 proved a real stand out in the accessories and no doubt a must have this season.
Hermès Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It’s clean lines, geometric shapes and sleek silhouettes at Hermès this season.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski recovered the label’s heritage in bringing back leather once again this season in various midi length skirts, coats and dresses. Trainers appearing in white, blue, ochre yellow and red will surely prove to be a hit in store, not to mention the tailored longline coats.
Oversized stone jewelry adds drama to the understated collection, whilst Vanhee-Cybulski’s beautiful palette of colors elevates this understated collection to the height of Spring/Summer elegance.
Céline Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
It was back to the Tennis Club de Paris for Céline this season. Bringing us a world of contrasts, Phoebe Philo reworks some of her favorite shapes and silhouettes in a travelling inspired collection.
Opening with the ultimate interpretation of a nineties slip, Philo walks her models through a range of looks, mixing masculine tones with feminine pleats and cinched waists amongst oversized shoulders reminiscent of the eighties.
If there is one thing Philo has taught us from this show, it is that no venture is worth doing without some sultry red lipstick and a pair of hoop earrings.
Loewe Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Jonathan Anderson is reinventing the traditionally fine Spanish leather brand, Loewe. This is with a new, particular attention to the logo, which he cleverly brandishes across bags, dresses and coordinating suits.
Mixing the outlandish with the undoubtedly ready-to-wear, his newest collection for the label sees a diverse range of fabrics and textures, from mirror shards, to cable knits to translucent plastic. The jewelry is contemporary and eclectic, with fish shaped necklaces, tailored bags and models dripping in gold with fringed earrings and bracelets. An innovative collection, which is bursting with a fresh energy for Loewe.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Announce New Womenswear Campaign
The values of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s label explore functionality within the urban context of street wear. Primarily concerned in protecting the curvatures and geometric angles of the human body, Saberi adopts innovative techniques when experimenting with fabrics, reimagining and rearranging in a destructured style. Previously only creating menswear lines, this campaign presents the growing prominence of the women’s collection for the brand in an exclusive preview on our ZOO Magazine site.
The Spring/Summer 2016 Collections combine aspects of two fundamentally different worlds, work wear versus deep-sea diving suits. Inspired by the construction of neoprene suits, Saberi reimagines some of the label’s most signature looks using organic materials in a wholly novel light. The sheer inquisitive nature of the luxury fashion brand, along with high quality tailoring and handcrafted passion, means for an inspiring collection composed of forward-thinking creativity.
Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
In a surreal Parisian show, “Le Nez Rouge” came complete with ginormous balls of fabric, a barefooted child in a man’s shirt and the designer himself leading a horse down the runway.
The collection itself was outstanding. Heavily deconstructed suits resulted in asymmetric lines and contemporary shapes in the label’s signature style. Crisp shirts and tailored trousers appeared in the designer’s trusted palette of navy, white, grey and red.
Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
If it was blue last season then it was orange this one at Emporio Armani. Well with a majority neutral palette throughout, he ended the show with a vibrant orange, evocative of a summer sunset.
Continuing with a casual trend to his clothes, this line sees a fluid transition from androgynous looks to decidedly feminine ones, from eighties inspired power dressing to nineties sports-inspired leisure wear. With the adoption of a number of shapes, a stand out are the ruffled suit trousers that cinch in with a belt buckle.
Blumarine Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
A jewel encrusted, court-studded, floral print explosion of sheer netting, draped fabrics and relaxed jackets is occurring at Blumarine this season. Anna Molinari has let her imagination run wild and created a collection in which two worlds collide, those of surrealism and reality.
Take billowing satins or sheer printed skirts against simplistic ribbed jumpers and oversized coats. This fusion of ornate decoration and modern minimalism creates a look of ethereal elegance finding its feet in an urban world.
Trussardi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Seemingly having had sourced inspiration from a documentary depicting one man’s travel through Western Australia, the undertone to Gaia Trussardi’s latest collection is of exploration and survival.
Longline jackets and shirts sail over matching linen trousers, all with distressed raw edges, appear as though they have withstood the harshest of elements of a desert. There is patchwork, layering and leather all realized in a warm, earthy palette and slouchy silhouettes.
Amidst all of this, Trussardi is having a somewhat vintage moment, with beaded dresses and waistbands and a nostalgic pendant necklace featuring in every look. The culmination of which is a collection fusing roughness with luxury, a novel interpretation of shabby-chic.
Fendi Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Opposing retro at all costs, Karl Lagerfeld implies that there are no references in his latest Fendi collection. The puffed up sleeves, the high neck collars and the repeated latticing are puzzling... With coral, oversized leather sleeves and a pleated maroon skirt that flows to the ankles, I can’t decide if we’re in the eighties or the Renaissance, with look 16.
Lagerfeld incorporates a diverse number of silhouettes, fabrics and colors into the collection and more often than not with this one it really seems as though they shouldn’t work together… Somehow though, they definitely do.
Fay Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
It is a seventies paisley dream at Fay this season. With embroidered tunics, lace-up waistcoats and crochet galore, creative directors Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have gone out all out boho.
Girlish ruffles and folk-style dresses are a mish mash of prints and layered with variations of military-inspired jackets, meaning there is a lot to look at. In comparison to the simple sophistication of their Fall/Winter 2016 line, this season at FAY has taken a less serious approach and added a touch of “elegant chaos”.
Replay Footwear Launch Online 24h Shoe Design Competition
In collaboration with Desall, a digital startup boasting an international platform of 60,000 creatives, Replay Footwear have announced a shoe design contest to extend their current shoe line and design their “24th shoe”.
The urban, unisex shoe must reflect the Replay brand DNA and must be of an original, unique design, appropriate for 24/7 use, with a monetary prize at stake. Replay fans can follow the competition and vote online at Replays Facebook and Instagram pages. Prospective entrants must personally subscribe to the Desall platform to participate in the competition. The contest ends in November.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
“A Woman’s Odyssey” is what J.W. Anderson was apparently calling his show backstage. A jumble of periods there was oversized ruched shoulders from what could only be the Renaissance period, monochrome sixties squiggle prints, eighties bodycon dresses and some incredible nineties metallic square toe boots.
In adopting a fairly neutral palette, the creative collection was eye opening but not overly excessive – it worked. J.W. Anderson has successfully created yet another completely original line.
Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Open shirt-dresses peeling off model’s shoulders, undone fastenings and asymmetric hems overtly hint at the inspiration behind this season’s Proenza Schouler Collection.
Indeed, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough claimed it was “a peeling banana” that influenced the label’s luxurious ready-to-wear line. Makes sense doesn’t it? Already a clever collection, its combination of interesting shapes, textures and colors make it a beautiful one too. Mix in some ruffles, pom poms and feathers, and you are left with an ultra-feminine, contemporary line with a hint of Spanish influence.
Jeremy Scott Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
The inspiration behind Jeremy Scott’s latest collection is blatantly obvious: 60s screen meets sci-fi. The designer fills his catwalk with a classic T.V. screen “squiggle” print on metallic fabrics amongst psychedelic monochrome patterns, alien green trapeze dresses and even a show-stopping conical bra to finish.
Indeed the ever-playful Scott has moved away from last season’s twee style and gravitated towards a cheekier look of fishnet tights, dangerously high hems and retro cartoon character prints…All made easier to digest by the collection’s simple shapes and silhouettes.
Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Another season at Hood By Air equals another season of Shayne Oliver doing whatever he wants. With deconstructed shirts, trousers, skirts, and just about everything else, Oliver consistently takes the mundane and transforms it into something extraordinary.
This school-uniform inspired collection sees the designer jump on the trend of gender blurring and showcases an equal number of male and female models wearing his interpretation of skirts and dresses on the runway. The bad boy of New York Fashion Week, Oliver revels in his Hood By Air revolution.
Thought your carbon footprint was small? FEIT’s is smaller.
FEIT was initially created as a response to the harmful global pollution caused by the careless mass production of unworthy, poorly constructed shoes. The first of its type, this “Neoluxury” brand promoting high quality, sustainability and individuality, was founded by the Australian born Price brothers, Tull and Josh. Solely hand-crafting their shoes with the highest level of skill, this pioneering duo adopts a contemporary, environmentally friendly production process when creating their footwear.
In collaboration with the artist / designer Jordana Maisie, FEIT now welcomes “Installation Two: Volume and Void”, the second branch of their innovative company in New York’s West Village. The store design has a geometrically shaped clean aesthetic, with timber opening sightlines between the store and outdoor street. Volumetric molds were used to carve out display spaces, in a similar manner to the process of molding leather to a last. The end result, quite like their shoes, is something truly special.
Acne Studios Embrace Change with Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Adopting fashion’s recent shift away from gender distinctive clothing toward current trends of gender blurring and androgyny, Acne Studios’ Creative Director Jonny Johansson has featured his 11-year-old son Frasse in the label’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Shot by Viviane Sassen, the ad sees the preteen football fanatic tottering about in heels and a number of coats from the new womenswear collection – looking unnervingly cool whilst doing so.
In a recent statement, Jonny Johansson said “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and the character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather than seeking approval from society or to follow set norms.” The outdoor ad will appear in major cities New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong.
PARIS XVIE: A Short Film for Dior Homme
Yesterday saw Dior Homme unveil its latest collaboration between artistic director Kris Van Assche and photographer Willy Vanderperre. “PARIS XVIE” is a short film exploring what it means to be this season’s Dior man, with actor Boyd Holbrook guiding us through a day in Paris.
Wearing a tuxedo whilst exploring the depth of Paris’ urban landscape, Holbrook is charmingly confident. Playing a harmonica as he wanders through the streets and picking up flowers as small souvenirs, his pensive expression draws a certain curiosity about him. Toward the end of the film, as a nod to the stylized, cinematic screens of Hollywood, we see him dance around the room and walk under the lights of Paris at nightfall… A clever mix of old and new, this season’s Dior man must be witty, romantic and self-deprecating. PARIS XVIE is online now and accompanied by a still image campaign.
Tiger of Sweden Jeans Pop-Up Store in Central Copenhagen
Just this afternoon Tiger of Sweden / Jeans opened a brand new pop-up store in the heart of Copenhagen. Landing in perfect timing for Fashion Week, it stocks the Tiger Jeans A/W 2015 collection for both guys and girls. This collection exudes the brooding edge that Tiger of Sweden Jeans prides itself upon, using a combination of “minimalistic expression with a dark, dreamlike print” in creating looks.
According to Fredrik Folkesson, who is Product Manager for the brand, Tiger Jeans has evolved massively over time, since its birth in 2001. After departing from the larger fashion family, Tiger of Sweden, Tiger Jeans has used it’s cooler, more urban reputation to become one of Sweden’s’ leading jeans brands.
The store opening today in Copenhagen is the first to date that sells exclusively Tiger Jeans, and reflects its’ growth to an established Fashion line.
Emporio Armani Presents The Fall/Winter 2015/16 Campaign starring Calvin Harris
DJ and producer Calvin Harris stars in the Brooklyn located campaign, a monochrome of cinematographic features shot by photographer Lachlan Bailey. The highly prolific musician Calvin Harris is portrayed in various workplace environments clad in the FW collections’ garments, ranging from leather jackets to the iconic Emporio Armani underwear, eyewear and watches. The continuing collaboration strengthens the ties between the fashion house to the world of the energetic dynamism of contemporary music – with innovation, and futurism intertwined with an assured sense of style. www.armani.com
Moncler Campaign Fall/Winter 2015-2016
Drawn from the dramatic mysticism of the Nordic Sagas and traditional Russian and Slavik folklore, the Moncler advertising campaign takes a dark turn. The formidable photographer Annie Leibovitz evokes in Moncler’s fairytale a take on various literary inspirations: from Tolkien to Hans Christian Andersen. Breathing life into these reimagined characters are the siblings Lucky and Pyper Smith, of the band “The Atomics”. The stunning backdrop of the glacial Icelandic landscape frames the characters within a dream-like cinematography. Echoing the color palette of the Moncler collections, the earthy, raw tones are intertwined with nature, embodying the heartfelt relationship of the Moncler approach.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Recalling the striking blues of Yves Klein, abstract patterns and what looked like Granny’s crochet patterns, designer John Galliano presented an otherworldly couture collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Disjuncture, contrast and curiosity seemed to be the unifying trend – the collection could swing from showing a majestic coat of beige simplicity to metallic abstraction in the way of a skirt and a paint-splattered ruched top. This fluctuation only served to highlight Galliano’s inventive spirit, and his return to what he does best.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by Bretagne, the French region known for sailing, the Breton sailor stripe and Crêpes, Gaultier goes fully French. It was more than fanciful; it was a sneak peek into the continual curiousness of Mr. Gaultier’s creative mind. Amongst his angular take on the beret, the part chefs-hat, part statuette headpiece exemplified the very present theatrical element of Gaultier’s France. Theatrics aside, the collection contained an array of beautifully constructed fabrics, the intense yellow, gold, orange and blue color scheme only highlighting the mastery of construction. Despite the whimsicality of Gaultier’s shows, it is something that has become a bit of a trademark — and in the end, his playfulness is always breath of fresh air.
Herr von Eden v MÜHLE Shaving Culture
Together with MÜHLE, Herr von Eden is launching a set of premium-grade shaving accessories for all men with an eye for quality and style. Good taste and an attention to detail are perfectly combined in this elegant shaving kit. Timelessly and traditionally crafted, the shaving set consists of a high-quality shaving brush with a handle made of resin, in combination with a low-maintenance synthetic fiber — the Silvertip Fibre ® - a MÜHLE innovation. In addition to this highly constructed kit, the aloe vera shaving soap ensures a thoroughly enjoyable shaving experience — for the cultivated gentleman.
Christian Dior Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Asymmetrical coats, one arm draped in fur, the other exposed. Dior’s Couture show had a little of everything – as kaleidoscopic as the ceilings of the Dior custom made space. However, Raf Simons’ conception of Dior Haute Couture looked nonetheless coherent, originating from an inspirational point of view that played itself out on the runway. The platform shoe made itself known in this show, too, giving the models a physical elevation as much as a metaphorical elevation of the collection as a whole – it seemed to float on some other plane – perhaps made more evident by the whimsically constructed location in the gardens of Paris’ Musée Rodin. Dominated by ankle-length gowns and steel-like mesh constructions, the collection seemed made for a contemporary noblewoman of some kind. Indeed, the A-line cut of the sleeve and the billowy shape of the blouses recall a certain Tudoresque sensibility – its mesh vests and thick coats reminiscent of a vastly updated dress for the court of Henry VIII perhaps?
Louis Vuitton Series 3 – Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign
Starring new muse Alicia Vikander and returning beauty Jennifer Connelly, the campaign is shot by Juergen Teller and Bruce Weber and showcases the FW 2015-2016 collections worn by the quintessential Louis Vuitton woman. The refined elegance of the garments and the women is highlighted, juxtaposed against an industrial, stark background. Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière has had an amazing season following the stunning resort collection and continues to take the brand to new heights.
Balmain Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain man is definitely memorable. A reimagination of the twentieth-century adventurer, Rousteing evokes the essence of a contemporary city explorer. Though perhaps not as practical as it is aesthetically pleasing, the throwback headpieces, khaki belted jackets and pocket-heavy pants are the results of a certain military pragmatism and an appreciation for the classic cuts of the 1900s, refashioned with the modern man in mind. Indeed, as Olivier Rousteing’s first menswear collection for Balmain, the collection is decidedly statement-worthy, and iconic in the way that it neatly reflects the iconic qualities of its inspirational figures – the traversing scientists and aristocrats of old.
Maison Margiela Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Studded shoes, long black overcoats, leather, silver, ankle-length vests and the occasional abstract painting splashed across the chest. Maison Margiela’s collection captures the essence of an effortless yet fashion-minded man. Suits, coats and pants are fashioned in a nonchalant manner – the tailoring spot-on for an appropriately slouchy but crisp look.
The SS 16 Margiela man falls somewhere in-between an iconic Laurence Fishbourne in the Matrix and what you would imagine a modern day Dorian Gray to be. Badass but refined. Restrained but strong - timeless and memorable.
G-Star RAW x Ellen von Unwerth: The Sequel
The iconic denim brand G-Star RAW teamed up with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for their second unique collaboration, this time in monochromatic splendor. The raw visuals of von Unwerth’s imagery highlight the denim texture’s distinct attitude. Playing with military poses, the campaign draws forth the denim’s youthful and rebellious connotations. Formative of G-Star RAW’s evolution has been the Elwood – the first ever pants constructed using 3D methods, which drew on biker pants for inspiration. The campaign showcases the wide range of G-Star RAW jeans from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection.
The FW 2015 collection is currently available online and in stores from August onwards.
Emporio Armani Menswear Spring 2016 at Milan Fashion Week
With a decidedly East-meets-West point of departure, the Emporio Armani 2016 show paired European silhouettes with contemporary cuts seen in the fashionable streets of the East. More of a resonance of the Eastern demand for European high fashion, Giorgio presents classic cuts, the ‘Armanified’ version of the coveted sneaker, sleek sunglasses and the occasional beret.
Kenzo Resort 2016 Collection
The unifying pillar of the Kenzo Resort 2016 collection is its nod towards the modern-day woman on the go. With the universe at her feet and a yearning for functionality, Kenzo provides the sartorial relief for a woman in need of comfort paired with practicality and elegance. With subdued prints and flowing fabrics, the collection is made decidedly versatile with its soft, natural color scheme. Camouflage greens, stone greys, pale violets and beiges make sure the Kenzo Resort 2016 garments fits into any setting.
Gucci Fall Winter 2016 Campaign
“Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands.”
Embracing the liminal quality of those who inhabit both past and present mentalities, the Gucci FW 2015-2016 campaign explores the disconnection of those not entirely at home in the present moment. The elegant mix of vintage elements and futuristic fabric combinations positions the collection within the elusive space between “no longer” and “not yet”.
Creative director Alessandro Michele explains that the collection is the summation of his envisioning of today’s urbanite attitude – blurring divisions of gender and time permeate every garment. In a campaign photographed by Glen Luchford, models Tessa Charlotte Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, Lia Pavlova and Sven de Vries inhabit the bodies of the ‘Gucci contemporaries’. There is no doubt that Michele has delivered a stunning collection - be it past, present, or other.
AGL Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign starring Dakota Fanning
The Giusti sisters welcome back the ethereal Dakota Fanning back into the fold with her renewed position as face of AGL for a fourth season. The Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection is laced with androgyny, combining boyish styles with a feminine taste through its minimal shapes and bold details.
Vera, Marianna and Sara Giusti chose Dakota for her embodiment of the refined AGL spirit of femininity and playfulness, her energy captured in the monochrome images of photographer Rankin.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Industrial cuts, classical in nature yet futuristic in look is the order of the day in the recently revealed HUGO BOSS FW 15 campaign. Laced with crimsons, the pervading grays are elevated from classic to edgy, safe to bold. Artistic Director Jason Wu brings to the campaign a cemented Berlin feeling in his refined layers of anthracite felt.
Featuring Clément Chabernaud and Edie Campbell, this ode to Wu’s structural vision is reflected in the photographic work of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, directed by Stephen Galloway. The collection tells a story through the play between structure form and a striking palette of black, red, camel and gray.
Barny Nakhle for Haider Ackermann
Shoemaker Barny Nakhle has been appointed the new creative head of Haider Ackermann’s accessories department – more specifically its diverse footwear collection. Following work for stockists worldwide, Nakhle will contribute his own distinct craftsmanship to the Belgian shoe house. The Nahkle-conceived collection will be launched in a few weeks for the SS16 season.
With a decidedly architectural approach, playfulness and the sharpness of form come together to create an assemblage of uniform classicism with a twist of innovation. The collection is currently available via appointment only at the Boon showroom in Paris between June 24th – July 3rd.
Dior Cruise 2016 in Le Palais Bulles
Sitting on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the grand habitat for Dior’s own Pierre Cardin came to be the unique setting for the Cruise showcase. A spectacle of a building and an architectural curiosity, its surroundings mimic the exuberant and vibrant quality of the equally playful garments. The terra-cotta bauble backdrop of the Antti Lovag-designed abode is intertwined with the inherent vision of the clothing.
Raf Simons, the artistic director of Christian Dior, elicits the landscape and memory of a certain Cote D’Azur mode de vie in the Dior 2016 Cruise Collection. Drawing inspiration from the natural world, the collection and evokes the ethereal quality of the serene southern coast.
Indeed, in Simons’ utopian project, tradition and technique merge in the creation of a collection that pair youthful modernism with traditional craftsmanship. Simons explains his approach to the collection as arising from the perspective of playful freedom and individuality, peppered with a light and fresh aesthetic. Fabrics are knitted and layered in a tapestry-like construction, a play on the idea of ‘homespun’ crafts, yet bolstered by bias cut gowns and lurex textiles.
CHANEL, Pharrell & Lederhosen
The Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign stars CHANEL veteran Cara Delevingne, tour-de-force musician Pharrell Williams and the now seasoned runway walker Hudson Kroenig. Taken by Lagerfeld himself, the campaign features the collection’s trademark knits, knee-high lace-up boots and lederhosen.
Pharrell Williams, who will be awarded the CFDA Fashion Icon Award at this year’s ceremony, looked suitably at ease in the pieces inspired by the Hamburg-raised Lagerfeld’s roots. By combining the traditions of the region with a touch of Haute Couture, the collection evokes in the viewer connotations of a contemporary von Trapp family.
The collection will be available in boutiques and on chanel.com in June.
Slam Jam x Carhartt WIP
To celebrate the anniversary of Slam Jam, the Italian based clothing company rallied the creative force of Carhartt WIP and the British designer Andrew Bunney to develop their Boom Town Slickers jubilee project. Consisting of five looks under the themes “Putty Canvas”, “Denim”, “Reflective”, “Bandana” and “Chase Thermal”, the looks are all made of Carhartt WIP classics, and are an amalgamation of the reinterpretation of the old and the new.
Rooted in “street culture”, Slam Jam's aesthetic hails from the influences of music, sports and the visual arts. Over the past twenty-five years, the company has been bridging the world of streetwear and fashion.
The 3rd drop of its capsule collection “Boom Town Slickers” consists of special material and workwear items. The items from the 3rd drop entitled Reflective will be available from April 25th, followed by the 4th and 5th drop on May 25th and June 25th respectively. They will be available at Slam Jam and Carhartt WIP, both online and in store, as well as selected stores worldwide.
Alessandro Michele’s First Gucci Campaign
Alessandro Michele does things differently. This was, of course, one of the main reasons he became the new creative director at Gucci last January. During his latest women’s wear show, he showed a new kind of sexiness that was surprising for a brand like Gucci. The glammed up fashion doll that we were used to disappeared, and it seems as if she is not coming back. Gucci’s new advertisement campaign shows Giannini’s last collection for the brand, but everything else shows Michele. Photographer Glen Luchford shot the series for the campaign, in which Michele’s fresh vision comes across perfectly.
Armani’s Art of Living
For the first time, Armani Casa is showing work from the most important projects, together with scale models, samples, stylistic research and sketches. To see the process behind the interior collection of the Armani house, you can visit them during this year’s Salone del Mobile in Milan.
Since 2015 is an important year for Armani, the exhibition will represent important milestones for the brand. Many projects from all over the world will all be showcased.
Mykita at Dover Street Market
Mykita has been making perfect eyewear since 2003. By combining proper craftsmanship with modern technology, they manage to create a beautiful and high quality collection every time. Now, Mykita has collaborated with Dover Street Market New York for a pop-up installation. You can visit it until the 30th of April to discover Mykita.
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI X MAD et LEN
Designer Boris Bidjan Saberi and blacksmiths MAD et LEN have worked together to create a new line of candles that are both unique and utterly sublime. In style of both brands, the candles are hand poured and made into burned steel jars, which gives them a dark and mysterious design.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Whenever Hedi Slimane shows a collection, we are sure of one thing: people will talk. The opinions are never as divided as they are at a Saint Laurent show, which makes it one of the most anticipated shows during Paris Fashion Week.
The great thing about Slimane is that he does not really care, and that is exactly what he showed us with his creations for next fall. His Saint Laurent girl is back. Or maybe she has never been gone to begin with. She continues to be the coolest girl in town. Careless and feisty, a little like Slimane himself. She hangs around at rock shows and ends up modeling by accident. She is the girl that most girls (secretly) want to be, and that is why Slimane proves to be a commercial success. Over and over again.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since Nicolas Ghesquière took over the steering wheel, Louis Vuitton has been traveling into a slightly different direction. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, he has found a way to add some of that Parisian rock ‘n roll into Vuitton’s classic luxury.
Biker pants and jackets were combined with short dresses in flower prints, finished up with pointy heels and low, black boots. The looks felt casual and laid-back, but none of them lacked flare.
Maison Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Even though it does not always seem like it, fashion is an industry that accepts and forgives. This was proven during the latest Maison Margiela show by John Galliano, when we all embraced him back into our hearts.
The collection itself contained a perfect balance between Galliano’s signature style, together with how we see Margiela. It had humor, uniqueness, craftsmanship and was it filled with small references. Everything we ever expect from a Margiela collection.
COMME des GARÇONS at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Rei Kawakubo’s collections tend to get smaller, but for some reason they tend to get more powerful too. Her latest show had a certain sadness, perhaps portraying the pain of an artist.
Every piece in the collection was grand, perfectly made and telling a different story. Or maybe the story was not different, but each and every look went trough a different phase. In a way, the show was about a lack of freedom. Covered arms and almost suffocating dresses showed a broken woman; a women who couldn’t seem to escape and completely accepted her condition.
Even though we might not know the specifics, Kawakubo told us her story. We may or may not understand it, but we surely like to keep on trying.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Dries Van Noten never fails to amaze. His Fall/Winter 2015 collection has clearly been inspired by his earlier work, which was simply inevitable by this point in time. We saw oriental colors and prints, combined with powerful but effortless shapes. Strong and rich materials met stiff and oversized fabrics that made every look slightly more modest.
The Dries-woman looks like she is somewhat of a modern emperor. Golden prints and embezzlements, together with the use of satin, scream femininity and refer to old China, where she seems to be taking over.
Zadig & Voltaire at Paris Fashion Week 2015
The two Swedes behind Zadig & Voltaire, Cecilia Bönström and Paulo Melim Andersson, have managed to make the brand more French then ever. The Fall/Winter 2015 collection radiates Parisian rock and roll, which has always been the core of Zadig & Voltaire.
Embellished pinstriped suits and studded leather showed the essence of their style, but the use of fur added something slightly new. Highly luxurious, long, patchwork fur coats were key pieces in the collection.
Tod’s at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alessandra Facchinetti knows exactly what she is doing with Tod’s, which originally started as a footwear brand. For the past few seasons, she has been pushing the boundaries within Tod’s design. She showed us full looks in leather for Fall/Winter 2015, in soft pastels with a few popping brights. The collection is extremely feminine and dares to combine many different styles into one.
CoSTUME NATIONAL at Milan Fashion Fall/Winter 2015
Ennio Capasa manages to bring New York to Milan. His minimalistic, black looks in leather and other luxurious materials like silk, seem to be made for young people in creative capitals. Hoodie-like jackets and details on dresses give the collection a sporty, even more urban look. Combine that with fur and ruffles, and you’ve got yourself some New York in Milan.
Fendi at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
The F in fur is for Fendi, so naturally the Fall/Winter collection for 2015 had lots of it. The focus within the show was on animal materials, with different kinds of fur, leather and shearling.
Lately, the brand has been in a specific late sixties mood with A-line dresses, large buttons, and graphically assembled patchwork. We saw architectural creations in perfectly matched colors. The silhouettes were fresh and intriguing, embracing Lagerfeld's look on luxury.
Details were – like always – of high importance. Cut off fur on the cuffs of blouses and on gloves were nicely and elegantly placed. Graphical prints turned looks into paintings and left us in awe.
PHILIPP PLEIN at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Ever since he started his brand, PHILIPP PLEIN has been focused on taking streetwear to different level. We never know quite what to expect, even though he does not necessarily give us something extremely modernistic to chew on. There is something about his personal style that is familiar yet intriguing.
Plein’s looks are anything but plain. Cut out leather and voluminous fur dominated his latest show. The combination with hardware and crystals makes every piece an eye-catching phenomenon, turning the collection into a celebration of luxury and boldness.
Next to the collection, Plein made sure he impressed us with the colossal rollercoaster he had installed. In his book, even the sky is not the limit.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label at London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
There is always something particularly dramatic about Dame Vivienne Westwood. For the first look of her new collection, she started off with a quite quiet, grey oversized coat. Immediately after that, we saw her true nature come out with various asymmetric designs in bold color combinations. There was a lot of Westwood’s classic tailoring going on, combined with perfect draping that showed impeccable fluidity. By using velvet and silk, she made sure that this would only be complimented.
The show existed out of both quirky items and highly wearable, slightly discreet jackets and pants. Altogether, Westwood –once again- managed to meet our expectations.
Calvin Klein Collection at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Francisco Costa is not the first designer to get inspired by the sixties for this season, but he is definitely the one who managed to mold it into the minimalistic Calvin Klein aesthetic we all adore. For next fall, we saw many of the sleek dresses that we are used to seeing, but the other classics were all in there as well. Tight, over-the-knee boots, patchwork leather, wide collars and A-line coats. Metal details and large buttons gave the collection a playful twist, and referred to 1960s pop culture.
Alexander Wang at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Alexander Wang’s warriors are walking a different path. Since his last collections have been inspired by sportswear, he has chosen to go into a rougher direction for next fall.
Wang’s overload of black, the combination with plaid, studded details and heavy shoes clearly link to the music scene of the nineties. In fashion, we always go back to punk, heavy metal and everything else that tries to stay as far away from fashion as possible. It seems as if we adore the things and people that dislike fashion the most. Wang embraces this idea with both arms, and creates a cult of which we all want to be a part of. His use of hardware does not only show the influence of Balenciaga on Wang as a designer, but turns the garments into something utterly sophisticated as well.
Ellen von Unwerth shoots G-Star RAW Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Ellen von Unwerth and G-Star make perfect bedfellows, each exalting a strength of soul in body and spirit. Affinity certainly strikes true of this pertinent pairing, coming together to produce this arresting SS15 campaign.
The erratic beauty of von Unwerth’s inimitable photographic style speaks plainly of the endlessly altering merits of denim, wonderfully wavering under G-Star’s empathetic eye for fit. Men’s and Women’s styles span a spectrum to suit all manner of tastes, from chalk-white to cobalt denim, crisp and clean to distressed, skinny to slack. The only invariable, it seems, is a flattering fit, exceptional shape arriving in the form of perfectly-placed pockets and supple, stippling seams, or an artfully adjudged waistband to sculpt the body. Each image bearing the hashtag slogan, “Wear it #tightorwide”, interaction is impossibly inspired, G-Star’s capricious campaign tailored to the individual, just like the jeans.
THE STORE x Soho House Berlin
True to its rather succinct name, THE STORE offers a refined range from the very best cultural offerings, from fashion to furniture, art, beauty, books and food. Nestled in the lower ground and ground floors of Soho House in Berlin Mitte, the artfully architected space stretches over 2800 square-meters – a setting to inspire thought and creativity under an immersive installation.
Divided into two distinct zones, THE STORE centers around its Cultural Hub, boasting art installations, photographic and broadcasting studios, collaboration stations, Pizza East, Barber&Parlour and THE STORE Kitchen.
The retail element of THE STORE curates the most considered in fashion, art and design, a new home to brands such as Balenciaga, Jil Sander, J.W. Anderson, Proenza Schouler, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Christophe Lemaire and The Row.
THE STORE x Soho House opens February 2015.
Hien Le at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Hien Le knows how to make sportswear sartorial; for FW15, chubby jerseys doted to sweatpants and sweaters, clean and correct in a piercing Yves Klein blue – a lesson in covetable casual tailoring. Silhouettes were unsullied, but not deprived of charming quirks; arms of crew neck sweaters cropped at the wrists, banded by gently wrinkling cuffs and punctuated by the peep of an ice-white shirt sleeve.
Sweatpants bore tailored crease lines – a dashing detail deepened by the addition of leather laced loafer. As the archetypal marl grey emerged, a scant sight of print played through under plump laser-cut bombers, suitably restrained in its orderly paint strokes.
Camel boiler-suits were buttoned up to the neck, smartened by shirt collars and slipped under smart wool coats. Fisherman knits were fattened-up, dense like brittle honeycomb, but in buttery buff hues, turned over at the neck for a suave sense of charm. Rarely has sportswear been so charismatic.
Amsterdam Fashion Week Highlights Fall/Winter 2015
Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off to a sterling start with the advent of the Avelon show – a masterstroke in balancing boyish bedraggled tailoring with light, unruffled romance. Felted wools curled the body in sensible tones of charcoal and claret, sculpting wrap jackets, tailored co-ords and simple flared pants. Crombie coats were decked in intrepid Aztec prints – a heavy punch of pattern to punctuate a predilection for purity.
Said Mahrouf followed suit with simplicity for an unusually fluid execution of color-blocking. Bleach white sheaths were cut on the bias, lithely traipsing from shoulder to hips – a bite of crimson or pine green breaking through, but never once breaking the flow. Asymmetric vests curtained over slim tapered pants, but excellence certainly lied in Mahrouf’s sweeping gowns, so whispy and graceful, yet holding a determined strength in their decided geometric cuts.
Liquid cuts also found their way to the center of Barbara Langendijk’s debut collection. Influenced by the flat fabric construction of traditional Japanese textiles, Langendijk draped clean, curtly-cut silk swathes over the shoulders, cloaking sheer chiffon layers in a strict spectrum of blanch and buff gold.
The wildcard arrived in the form of Azis – a plague of digitized monochrome motifs and jarring visual texture. Diamond grid-check scarves were piled high on top of jackets on top of sweaters – a suffocating coddling of wool, snatched away by a sleek plain pencil skirt. Wraparound pinstripe funnel shirts flirted with chunky strap backpacks and varsity jackets adding a touch of scholarly rebellion, while hockey socks and virgin-white sneakers spoke of a wayward sensibility. Parachute silks bust in an exhilarating electric blue to spool salient sportswear, while buttery leathers blocked broad schoolboy shorts in a studious sooty grey, before giving way to the obligatory all-over tartan.
Read about more of the shows at www.fashionweek.nl
Kaviar Gauche at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Swollen swathes of snow white tulle and all-over applique lilies drive heads to the clouds under the distinctly dreamy vision of Kaviar Gauche this season.
A fine art to master, Kaviar Gauche here managed to strike the perfect balance between verbose elaboration and artful absence in negative space; porcelain-pure gowns were encrusted with a plush, pure white bed of blossom, flowering from the bodice and giving way to soft and unsullied sheaths of a silk chiffon skirt. Against long-sleeved tee-dresses, the bouquet sprawled to the hem, petering out in its climb to the neckline. The effect was that of a balancing act – give and take at its most resplendent.
When ornamentation ceased to bud from the cloth, it inverted, almost dissolving into a frosted layer of lace. Whispering over the body, nude tulles bore just a suggestion of Belgian lace, its intricacies only discernible if they happened to catch the light – a tailored mirage. An ivory illusion, dreamed up by Kaviar Gauche.
Raf Simons at Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
The sentiment behind Simons’ collection was “youth on a pedestal”, which accounts much for its soul-baring, Dadaist print, raw-hemmed DIY aesthetic.
Graffiti-scrawled lab coats drew-out the length of the body, punctuated by a preppy poloneck peeping from a scholarly sweater. Knitted tank tops were mawkish in model but not in practice, as fluro freeform checks bedazzled in peachy pink and green.
Plum slim-fit pants were poised with pockets at the hips, slender to the knee before eeking out to a gentle flare, traipsing over shoes and under soles. Footwear flipped between sneakers and brogues, just the glimpse of toe cap to testify which was in post.
Cartoonish-collared coats were thatched in a russet gridded weave, paired with mustard scallop sweaters ripe from a seventies’ sofa – that is, of course, unless they were being lacquered in urgent licks of crimson and jet, rotund, waxy and warped to the knee. Simons may well have set out to put youth on a pedestal, yet they soon knocked themselves back down, self-deprecating as his teens did seem – but then again, angst is in the nature of the beast.
Ermenegildo Zegna at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
A great collection requires an equally great theme, a point of departure that can be built upon, layer after layer, until the end product is as polished as it could possibly be. For FW15, Ermenegildo Zegna’s Stefano Pilati took inspiration from the most fundamental source of everything there ever has and will exist, mother earth, and delivered a perfect compilation of sophisticated old-money outerwear and sumptuous casuals.
Set in a darkened forest, Pilati’s exploration of the natural world started off with a master class in luxurious everyday fashion. Through his elaborate fabric choices (plush velvet and coated tweed), the head of design presented a swarm of freshly traditional separates: manly long-line coats with a silvery sheen, roomy trousers, pulled high on the waist, and tailored riding jackets, worn over cashmere turtle-neck sweaters or under a leather duster.
The show ended with more stripped-back looks consisting of crisp white shirts with zipper or pocket detailing and barely pressed trousers. In a sense, then, he really went back to basics.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week: Menswear Fall/Winter 2015
Here’s a question: who would ever think that mixing a pair of baby pink roll-up pants with a patterned burgundy full-zip sweater is a good idea? Federico Curradi, the Creative Director of Iceberg’s menswear line, for one, certainly would - and rightly so. As awkward as the pairing sounds, the surprisingly effervescent look was just one of the highlights of the Italian brand’s Milano presentation.
There was something soothingly poetic about Iceberg’s latest offering. The aforementioned pants. The shrunken beanies. The Seinfeld-esque fit. By combining undersized pieces with their ballooned-up counterparts, Curradi delivered the utmost magical ensembles, albeit perhaps a little strange-looking to the untrained eye.
There’s no denying that under Curradi’s masterful direction in the men’s division, the one-time knitwear-only specialists have grown into a fashion force to be reckoned with. And with no more than 20 looks for FW15, the public is inevitably left craving for more. Quality over quantity? At Iceberg, any time.
J.W. Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2015
Designers are a divided bunch; there are those who are disciples of beauty, and those who are disciples of thought. And then there’s J W Anderson – an exceptional master of both.
A single glance affords inescapable parallels to fashions past; flared legs and fluted cuffs belted by square psych pilgrim buckles and paired with spread lapels. Some might think it a perverse indulgence in all that’s ugly – a severe case of cacophilia – making a fetish of all that causes the skin to crawl. Brown leather trenchcoats bedecked, effeminate bodies – bare save the bolster of a chunky knitted choker. Giant daisy buttons dotted the chests of beige duster coats like girlish gingerbread men, but hyper-bland. Taupe conquered again, this time stretching over languid limbs as a slinky elastane number, tediously dreary and yet ripe for the disco.
Shearling suede coats were reconfigured as mod bombers, tight to torso while 90s bootcuts flared. Leather received the lurid treatment, emerging as cherry-red trousers and violet-stained jackets, replete with the delightfully repulsive silver ring zipper. Knitwear was, likewise, unashamedy plain, monotonous in mushroom bar a tubular roll of crimson to pipe a cartoonish turtleneck. The effect was that of a marvellously lacklustre Jetsons – the color turned down to a brilliant beige. As for a patchwork of fashions past, how could such a futuristic reference be nostalgic?
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Steven Meisel
It’s hard to imagine a designer better suited to the big screen than Miuccia Prada, as Miu Miu’s latest campaign will surely testify. Under the dependable directorship of Steven Meisel, a tense and tortures story plays out, calling upon Mia Goth, Marine Vacth and Imogen Poots as valiant starlets of the campaign. Each frame affords a covert glimpse at the seductive and spirited central cast – freezeframes charged with tension and suggestion.
Wily and ashen, an impish Mia Goth reclines on an unmade and austere white bed, a doe-eyed gaze transfixed on the camera, baiting the viewer to assume the supporting role. Poots, meanwhile, exudes rebellion, the cascading sunlight splaying shadows across her sprawling silhouette as she slouches atop an antique dark wood table. The camera centers on Vacth as the narrative teeters on the edge of conclusion, dangling on the angst of her pained stare.
The fusty and threadbare scene which surrounds almost permeates through the soul of the collection – the clash and pull of antiquated icons, re-imagined as artefacts of a modern ideology. Dusky jacquard housecoats, pyjama suits and ruffled blouses slashed to the midriff, topped with a trim of fuzzy hazy-hued fur. Chunky platforms and girlish bowed peep-toe mules subvert the plot with sublime complexity, throwing a curveball to ladylike classicism with the assistance of supple leather handbags, thick leopard-print belts and glasses edged in glitter frames. A masterstroke by Miu Miu and Meisel– so brooding and cinematic is the narrative, the mere film stills warrant a full-length feature of their own.
PHILIPP PLEIN Pre-Fall 2015
PHILIPP PLEIN fashions Pre-Fall flawlessly – muted and hazy, not an inch excessively autumnal. This time around, Plein’s concoction proved a dreamy affair, a cloudy mix of smoked lavender, ice blue and leaden greys – and texture rendered the redolence all the more palpable.
Chubby fur jackets clip supple skin-tight leathers, taking the line of the body from slight and sleek to swollen and cocooned – the contrast impossibly elegant, if a little defiant. But the girlish palette pardoned all sins, peppering peekaboo dresses and flared miniskirts with a wilful blush of coquettish colour.
All that’s powdery and playful gave way to an elongated outline that was all the more urbane, draping the body in sweeping swathes of jersey, restrained monotones edited by deep plunging necklines met, almost, by the halting insolence of a thigh-high slit. Bags, meanwhile, carry the rock ‘n’ roll rhetoric, ladylike frame bags and satchels clad in crystal skulls and python skin, studded leather totes and backpacks bridging the gap between Lolita and lavish rebellion with impeccable flair.
Versace Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign
Madonna is the new face of Versace. Photographed in New York by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, the Queen of Pop smoulders in a series of black and white shots for the brand's Spring/Summer 2015 campaign. The timeless images are a testament to Madonna's everlasting power and undeniable cultural presence, which has only grown stronger over the years.
“Madonna is one of the true icons of Versace. I am thrilled to have my friend and the most powerful and directional artist as the face of Versace for Spring 2015,” said Donatella Versace.
British Fashion Awards 2014
Hosted by English comedian Jack Whitehall, the annual British Fashion Awards took place on 1 December, 2014, at the London Coliseum. The ceremony was attended by some of the fashion and entertainment industries' biggest names such as Anna Wintour, Victoria and David Beckham, Lana Del Rey, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Karlie Kloss, Mario Testino, Kendall Jenner and Tom Ford.
Voted for by more than 400 fashion world professionals, the winners included Cara Delevingne (Model of the Year), Anna Wintour (Outstanding Achievement), Erdem (Womenswear), J.W. Anderson (Menswear), Victoria Beckham (Brand), Emma Watson (British Style) and Nicolas Ghesquière (International Designer).
Fred Perry Gary Hume Blank Canvas Collection
Continuing to collaborate with iconic British artists, fashion brand Fred Perry have announced their Gary Hume Blank Canvas Collection.
The collection will consist of three screen printed shirts based on original Gary Hume artworks. Chosen to enhance the classic Fred Perry shirt the artworks Spike (2006), Exclamation Mark (2004) and Blue Collar (2013) have been selected for their simple yet striking aesthetic.
Describing Fred Perry as "the uniform of the smart, disgruntled youth" Gary Hume is a successful English painter and printmaker famous for his work in London during the 1990s. The shirts will be available for men in Laurel Wreath collection stores and online from August 2014.
The Neo-Neoclassic Diesel Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Incorporating Diesel icons, leather rock ‘n’ roll, denim and military – utility, the Fall/ Winter 2014 Diesel campaign entitled ‘The Neo – neoclassic’ comprises of an exciting amalgamation of dynamic imagery and explosive backdrops.
Modelled by actors, models, musicians and internet stars, the campaign fuses the classic with the contemporary to create something distinct and spirited whilst adhering to a ‘new vision of the brand and ‘the forming of a new kind of tribe’.
Formulated by Nicola Formichetti and Nick Knight, the images capture the sleek and distinctive Diesel collection and showcase ‘a new form of Diesel’s alternative spirit’.
Marina Hoermanseder at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Frank and provocative best describes Marina Hoermanseder's designs. Hoermanseder was one of the finalists of this year's Start Your Own Fashion Business awards and had the audience gasping at the first glimpse of her SS15 collection. This time around the 28-year-old Austrian focused on a particular way of leather treatment. Bags, corsets, dresses and skirts were made from belt-like leather elements, which Hoermanseder combined in a herringbone fashion. The resulting shapes and patterns were interesting and quirky with loads of sex appeal. But Hoermanseder does not simply make clothes, she creates stories and discourse: a high-necked nude leather poncho stiffed the model’s movement and covered chin and mouth, silencing here in a way we attribute to veiling.
At the same time the design bared most of the models lower body. Another stand out was an anatomically correct torso-corsage, which suggested the model to be a naked mannequin. This avant-garde SS15 showcase stuck to feminine natural colors, such as nude, coral, soft yellow and apricot, which added to the surreal and disturbing vibe of the collection. Hoermanseder’s mix of cheery, bright pieces and surreal details set the mood of David Lynch’s Twin Peaks universe, where nothing is quite what it seems and reality and dream are indistinguishable – social commentary included.
Vladimir Karaleev at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Sporty, sporty is the way to go for Vladimir Karaleev. His show for SS15 paired opaque and see-through fabric for light and fresh summer ensembles. Colors are reminiscent of a poolside session - sandy creme, rich shades of blue, sunny yellow, berry hues as yummy as a raspberry margarita, and forgiving favorite black. There is more than meets the eye to Karaleev's looks and it needs a second and often third take to fully grasp the inventive cuts, fabrics and patterns of his designs. Surreal, patchwork-esque even, best describes the SS15 collection in which he sows different color and texture fabrics together right down the middle, reuses scraps of fabric to create prints and patterns, yet manages to never turn clownish in the process. That is true craftsmanship and a unique POV.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
If there is one point of critique about Daniel Blechman's SS15 collection, it'd have to be that he has not yet ventured into womenswear. SOPOPULAR has quickly become a fashion pack favorite during Berlin Fashion Week, leaving female guests extremely jealous of the urban, purist menswear looks. The current collection, called "Wasteland", sticks to black, white and gray, mixed with quiet wooden and dusty prints. Military elements could be seen here and there. Singer Ben Ivory composed a song of the same name as the collection, that set the tone during the presentation. Inspired by tribes and gangs, Blechman send bermudas, biker jackets, blousons and tunics down the runway, all the while paying close attention to his design's sustainability. And now some of those cool pieces for the ladies, please.
Isabell de Hillerin at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Photos by Mercedes-Benz Fashion
White, black and soft gray are the dominating shades in Isabell de Hillerin's minimalist SS15 collection. Accents of royal blue, soft pink and jade break the understated palette for a summery vibrancy. Flowing fabrics and those exciting hues come together in an elegant, understated and chic ode to femininity. Isabell de Hillerin's current collection is called “Beyond”, fitting the designs to a t. They go far beyond your regular summer garb, ensuring to feel comfortable, beautiful and at ease. Straight, clean cuts sheathe the body, in these sport smart creations, that ranged from light summer pants, see-through shirts and button downs to loose fitting blazers and coats. Once again de Hillerin put on a show to lust after until next season.
FIER vitrine Spring/Summer 2015
Ten well-selected international avant-garde labels presented their new collections in a group show during Berlin Fashion Week. Every corner of Lehrter Siebzehn was dedicated to another label and set up to create a showroom submerged entirely into the respective designer’s world. Each of the stalls showcased about three to four key pieces from the collections to give a brief introduction to the emerging design talents.
From Aussie designer Alexandra Hackett’s menswear collection, for which she created every piece from silver foil, draped black and gray avant-garde designs by 40 DECIBELS from Canada, detail oriented fairytale dresses with a hint of mystery by Karin Brettmeist from Germany, Australian Laura Banfield’s pieces that were nothing short of art, Laura Galati’s heavy knits (Australia), Germany’s Maja Daphne Holzborn and her vibrant prints and patchworks, urban streetwear by Brazilian Ocksa, Austria’s Ruins of Modernity and their contemporary styles all the way to Senhor Prudencio from Portugal and their amazing shoe designs and finally intriguing head pieces by Vasso Consola from Greece. All these designers are well on their way onto the fashion pack radar, so it won’t be too long until the fight for front row seats is on.
Lala Berlin at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Exhibiting at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin, the Lala Berlin Spring/ Summer collection presented relaxed silhouettes, stylish patterns and creative layering. Adhering to the theme of "Illusion & Delusion", the collection fused contemporary and chic pieces with inventive sheer dresses to produce a laid back yet effortlessly cool aesthetic. Smart blazers were paired with loose fitted trousers and sleek leather jackets added a dominant edge. The showcase, presented on the 9th July at the Deutsche Oper attracted actresses Fritzi Haberlandt and Friederike Kempter as well as fashion icons including Gala Gonzalez and Camille Charriere.
Atelier Versace Haute Couture Fall 2014
Not shy of the Avant-garde, the Atelier Versace Fall 2014 Haute Couture show adhered to classic Versace extravagance. Exaggerated, powerful shoulders graced snazzy jackets, excessive fringing was incorporated onto jackets, dresses, trousers and gloves and leg revealing slit dresses were covered in shades of deep blue, purple,black and white. Buckle detailing was placed onto dresses, jackets, skirts and tops producing a strong aesthetic and colored fur coats and sparkling glitter made for a flashy and dramatic finale.
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2014
Beginning with exquisite, wedding style dresses that adhered to Christian Dior's classic 1950s new look, the Christian Dior Fall 2014 Haute Couture show presented a modern yet elegant collection. Dresses embellished with subtle and refined jewels and floral patterns exuded grace and luxury while sleek jumpsuits emblazoned with floral patterns and accessorized with waist-clinching belts modernised the classic styles. Zips were intriguingly decorated onto the front of dresses and onto trousers and long, shapely coats were worn as dresses over trousers. Matching mini skirt and top amalgamations made for lively compilations and overall Simons applied historic influencers to a modern aesthetic.
HUGO BOSS Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Located on the Vasquez rocks north of Los Angeles, the HUGO BOSS 2014 Campaign showcases men's and womenswear in a simple yet strong set of images.
The tranquil and scenic desertscape background is juxtaposed by the powerful and authoritive stance of the models and provides the ideal scenery for the sleek and striking clothing.
Photographed by Pierre Debusschere, the campaign is accompanied by a video which highlights the progressive looks in the Fall/ Winter 2014 collection and displays Debusschere's talent for producing inventive and innovative images.
Kris Van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Sleek and innovative, the Kris Van Assche Spring 2015 Menswear collection presented an originative and stylish compilation. Suits were skillfully reinterpreted; trousers and shorts had slits at the knees, white shirts were worn with cut off neck ties and hoodies were worn underneath blazers. A distinctive pale blue pattern was seen on shorts, trousers and suits and metallic suits were worn with printed shirts, the result was a sharp yet fresh amalgamation.
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign
Described as "a woman's journey through her dreams and her deepest sensuality " the Blumarine Fall/Winter 2014 campaign incorporates timeless femininity and the wistful allure of a traveller in a sensuous mix.
Set in a modern Japanese Ryokan, model Thairine Garcia is embellished with traditional far east prints, precious silk dresses and flower decorations. The softeness of the clothing is juxtaposed by vivid atmosphere of the setting and the exotic backdrop provides a dreamy and tranquil ambience.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Transcending from polished and dapper suits to 90s style loose, light blue jeans and classic white trainers, the Dior Home show provided a suitable aesthetic for the modern man. Suits were decorated in striking prints and jackets and jeans were embellished with logos. Effective layering was applied to striped vests worn under blazers and striped t - shirts worn over white shirts. Casual yet chic double denim provided a quirky alternative to the suit and shiny, patent blazers added something unique.
DENHAM store Berlin
Amsterdam store DENHAM famous for being 'the jeanmaker' will open their first stand alone store in Berlin Mitte.
As well as the seasonal ready to wear collections, the full range of premium 5 pocket denim will be available across the 117sqm store. The store launches after the success of the 14oz pop up in the Blue Yard shopping center which will serve as an anchor to the standalone DENHAM store.
The new store will also feature DENHAM's signature on site sewing repair concept with a denim wash service also being offered. Already popular in the Amsterdam and Tokyo stores, this service will give customers a personalized and unique shopping experience while adhering the the DENHAM ethos. Complying with the brands modernist and rich vintage aesthetic, the new store will feature key retail fixtures and fittings and will celebrate its opening on Tuesday 8th July.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
In an artistic amalgamation, the Valentino Spring 2015 Menswear show incorporated vintage style prints on shades of elegant brown, taupe and silvery grey. Interesting print were mismatched on silk fabrics that gilded down the runway and metallic, patterned suits were accessorized with hand held leather bags and slip on leather sandals.Relaxed sweaters and long coats were layered over silk shirts and patchwork butterfly motifs and plant embroidery was emblazoned onto jackets; the result was a vintage influence on a contemporary aesthetic.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
A creative amalgamation of geometrical black and white lines was offered at the Emporio Armani Spring 2015 Menswear show. Totalling 91 looks, the impressive collection was suave yet innovative, conventional yet modern. Long black overcoats that emulated night gowns were paired with striped shirts and white leather loafers and buttoned up sweaters were worn with straight black trousers and monochrome flatforms.Carrying a futuristic essence, the collection fused sports luxe with sleek sophistication, thus producing a timeless and original combination.
Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Bright and bold prints and patterns were accompanied with beige garments in the Dsquared² Spring 2015 show. Small, artistic images were printed onto shirts, jackets and trousers and bold badges were placed onto denim jackets and shirts. Modern and colourful designs were placed onto white t - shirts and worn with flat form sneakers and colour blocked sandals. Adding an air of sophistication, long beige overcoats were styled over buttoned up denim shirts and fitted trousers but the quirkiness was brought back through two toned bucket hats and bright stripes placed onto beige jackets and trousers.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Prada's neat and defined Menswear Spring 2015 collection incorporated womenswear in a slick amalgamation. Suits with the seams clearly outlined were paired with sharp shirts and sandals. Colours and materials were effectively clashed; dark blazers were combined with striped shirts, beige sweaters and coloured trousers with long patent leather overcoats placed over. Clashed patterns were styled with chic blazers worn over sweaters and sleek metallic suits exuded sophistication. The womenswear, showcased alongside the menswear adopted a similar aesthetic with patterned sweaters clashed with patterned pencil skirts and worn under patent leather overcoats and straight , mid length dresses emblazoned with the seams outlined.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Keeping to nautical tones, the John Varvatos Spring 2015 menswear collection combined well-tailored blazers with fitted trousers and loosely wrap around scarfs. Cool silvers, whites and greys were integrated with earthy browns to create a casual and cosmopolitan style. Excellently tailored and incorporating an amalgamation of textures and detailing, the collection provided a sleek and characteristic combination.
Bally at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Keeping it simple yet sophisticated was the obvious mood at the Bally Spring 2015 runway. The lines were kept clean, the tailoring was finished impeccably and the accessories were kept to a minimum; plush leather oversize bags and black sunglasses. The colour palette however, was adventurous and bold, deep turquoises and burgundies covered jackets, dark beige was used on leather jackets and rich dark blue on trousers. The fourteen piece collection exuded refinement whilst adhering to a modern style.
Vivienne Westwood at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015
Sporting ‘Moral Outrage’ emblazoned t – shirts, Vivienne Westwood’s activist views were not left out of her Menswear Spring 2015 show. Westwood created a truly experimental and theatrical collection with distinct, unbuttoned shirts being worn under bright, deconstructed blazers, farmer-esque top hats and frayed cowboy – style denim. The show was eclectic and in keeping with the activist undertone, models wore pink pig snouts, Westwood not only exhibited a striking and skilful collection but used the runway as a platform for her environmentalist beliefs.
RAW for the Oceans wins Grand Prix
Denim brand G – Star RAW’s collaboration ‘RAW for the Oceans’ has won the Grand Prix award for Product Design at Cannes Lions Festival. As a long-term creative exploration between G-Star RAW and Bionic Yarn, ‘RAW for the Oceans’ innovates denim whilst impacting the plastic pollution in our oceans. In partnership with The Vortex Project and Parley for the Oceans, the initiative is culminated in G-Star collections and made from Bionic Yarn.
Offering solutions to the issue of ocean pollution, the project aims to tackle this problem through highlighting innovative product design. Described by President of the Cannes Lions Festival Jury, Donghoon Chang as “the Holy Grail”, G –Star RAW’s campaign underlining denim innovation presents sustainable and functional fashion that is to become part of the collection’s design.
G – Star has produced another revolution in the denim industry and Chang goes on to characterize their campaign as a stand out for “form, function, innovation, and a commitment to sustainability and social responsibility.”
G-Star and Marc Newson
Denim specialist G – Star RAW and industrial designer Marc Newson celebrated their decade long working relationship with an insightful event at the Design Museum in London.
Experimenting with art and fashion, an iconic piece from the collaboration is the Reversible Tour Jacket. A changeable bomber jacket with features including a compilation of graphic patches, grey silk sateen and a black quilted back.
Renowned for their stylish collaborations between art and fashion, the duo’s collections have expressed architectural constructions, streetwear references, and premium fabrications.
Australian born Marc Newson is a multi-disciplinary artist and has been described as the most influential designer of his generation. On speaking on his relationship with G – Star, Newson expressed “I think it is admirable that G-Star has the vision to embrace one industry’s ability to learn from another. They understand that design is a way of a company differentiating itself.”
The event took place on 11th of June and the G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Anniversary Collection for Fall/Winter 2014 is available from 1st October 2014.
G-Star Raw Seasonal Highlights
Focusing on dark, chic and stylish denim, the G–Star Raw Fall/Winter collection offers a large range of men’s and womenswear in a sharp selection of coats and finishes.
Varying in textures, materials and styles, the collection comprises of classic G–Star pieces as well as modern interpretations of the denims. Sophisticated and elegant yet contemporary and edgy, the collection can be worn layered or alone to create a sleek and polished aesthetic.
Converse x Maison Martin Margiela
The second collaboration between Converse and French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela introduces Premium Leather Silhouettes to the Collection.
The iconic sneakers are given an over paint which loosens overtime to reveal a hidden and vivid colour ranging from Amber Glow and True Navy to Azure Blue and Biking Red. Elegant and edgy, the classic sneakers are made from soft, luxurious leather and also feature the discreet Maison Martin Margiela logo on the tongue.
Speaking on the sneaker, Maison Martin Margiela describes the collaboration as “The story of two like-minded brands continues with the evolution of the sneaker collection where personal expression is at the forefront, revealing the expression of vibrant colours shining through an incognito white coat that ages with time.” The collaboration fuses the contemporary with the classic to produce intriguing take on an archetypal shoe.
CHANEL Cruise 2015 collection
It was print and pattern extraordinaire at the Chanel Cruise 2015 show with mismatched and intriguing shapes and styles and all out artistry. Big hair and exquisite makeup flawlessly complimented the heavily embellished attire, producing an extravagant yet stylish look and a chic colour palette.
Daringly experimenting with shape, pattern and texture, the collection provided lavish holiday dresses, a mixture of glitzy precious and costume jewellery and tailored pieces emulating the classic Chanel suit.
Showcased in Dubai, the collection gave a theatrical essence and emanated luxury through metallic trousers, moon headdresses and beautifully crafted sarees. Models including Lindsey Wixon and Malaika Firth emulated princesses as they wore textured harem pants and all in one patchwork pieces.
Modern and fearless yet still adhering to a classic Chanel aesthetic, Lagerfeld has fused the modern with the classic and the Arabian with the elegant.
WOLFGANG JOOP launches Eyewear Collection
In time for a stylish summer, fashion label WUNDERKIND have launched a new online store that will present Wolfgang Joop’s sleek new eyewear collection.
Coming in four unique and equally chic models, each with individual colour combinations and creative styles, the sunglasses have individual names representing their original shape. Deriving from Wolfgang Joop’s print creations of current WUNDERKIND collections, the hand made and high quality sunglasses are an ultra-mod fuse of distinctiveness and elegance.
Available at the new WUNDERKIND online store and at all WUNDERKIND boutiques as well as an exclusive selection of shops and department stores worldwide, these cool yet classic sunglasses are available to everyone and can be found at www.wunderkind.com/shop.
Dior: The Legendary Images
Held at the Christian Dior Museum in Granville Normandy, Dior: The Legendary Images showcases the extraordinary and stunning relationship between the fashion house and the photographers who helped cement their fame worldwide.
Included in the exhibition is talented American photographer Pat English who photographed Christian Dior’s first fashion show. This contributed to the international success of Dior’s highly popular and fashionable ‘New Look’. The exhibition also presents the iconic 1955 photograph displaying Dovima posing elegantly and showcasing a classic Dior aesthetic in between two elephants shot by Richard Avedon. This same trademark Dior elegance is captured in Willy Maywald’s mesmerising images shot on the streets of Paris of women in exquisite and chic evening wear and overcoats.
Also highlighting modern Dior photography, the exhibition hosts the work of Nan Goldin who captures actor Robert Pattinson effortlessly spread across the page for Dior Homme in 2013 and Natalie Portman looking ornately stunning in a series for Miss Dior shot by Paolo Roversi.
Truly legendary, these images are homage to the greats of fashion photography and a tribute to the timeless and cultivated style Of Dior. The exhibition will take place on May 3rd and continue through to September 21st 2014.
Replay: Replay One Off
Italian fashion house Replay have launched a collection entitled Replay One Off for Fall/Winter 2014 that epitomises strong, edgy and playful fashion. Consisting of both men’s and womenswear, the collection is effortlessly sophisticated with a casual and laid-back edge.
The men’s collection references sportswear pairing thick, quilted duffel coats, relaxed hoodies and jersey chinos whilst still remaining cosmopolitan through clean, structured lines, fitted denim and smart brogues. Equally chic, the womenswear uses high gloss leathers, shiny metallics and luscious fur to create a powerfully sleek collection for the modern, urban women. Sharply cut black bikers combined with classy, tailored trousers exude hip sophistication while lavish fur pieces are contrasted with deconstructed denim to produce an easy-going edginess.
As a denim specialist, Replay One Off puts a particular emphasis on the jeans throughout the collection, using both classic black and blue denim as well as providing a smart element through added leather, tech fabric and brocade appliqués. Claiming to be “a collection all about innovation and experimentation”, the clothing caters to the young and stylish consumer whilst producing an individual and playful aesthetic.
PRADA Advertising Campaign April 2014
Effortlessly combining femininity and luxury, high end Italian fashion house Prada have launched their April 2014 fashion campaign. Starring sensational model Lexi Bolling, the campaign showcases the dazzling starlet nestling the classic and popular Prada Double bag as well as new styles.
Crafted in lavish yet supple leather, the bags are available in a contrasting array of colours including white, caramel, sand, yellow and red and provide a casual and stylish essential daytime accessory. Shot by Steven Meisel, the photographer depicts the bag as an extension of the model herself and a powerful “combination of skin and leather” and a lustrous “second skin on the model’s gamine silhouette”.
Displayed in natural calming day light and against an airy, cool white background, Lexi gazes alluringly into the camera’s lenses while the desirable PRADA bag sits effortlessly and elegantly on her lap to create a “simple and understated luxury”.
The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier from the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibition
French Fashion extraordinaire Jean Paul Gaultier will have an international exhibition dedicated to his life work that will allow us a vast insight into his remarkable fashion world. A notable name in the industry, Gaultier is known for his challenging approach to fashion and redefining the dress codes of masculinity and femininity.
The exhibition showcases the variety of world cultures which are amongst Gaultier’s most dominant inspirations and displays his most revolutionary work in an interactive and audio-visual form. From Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour costumes to the attire of the characters in Pedro Almodóvar and Luc Besson's The Fifth Element, the exhibition showcases Gaultier’s life work and wealth of collaborations in an interactive and theatrical format.
Inviting us to experience the world of Jean Paul Gaultier, the exhibition features around 140 haute couture and prêt-à-porter outfits as well as detailing the journey from sketches and inspirations to the fascinating runways, costumes and avant – garde designs that made his name inextricable with the fashion industry. The exhibition will be at the Barbican Centre from 9th April – 17th August.
Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2014
Grungy and gothic 90s it girl was cleaned up in Glenn Martens’ debut collection for fashion label Y/PROJECT Heavily layered, oversize and floor length pieces added an element of exaggeration to which Martens’ harmonised with clean, architectural lines and exciting, body hugging ruffles on sensual sheer dresses and tops. Modern, sleek and clean cut lines paired with ultra-fashionable all black ensembles adhered to grunge while white and grey pieces provided a sleek modernity.
The clothing epitomized versatility; oversize black bikers were thrown onto slim fitting dresses paired with black patent pumps, ruffled turtle necks combined with leather trousers and matching suits worn under uniquely cut coats. Stating that “Today a woman has to be adaptable, she has to be modern… be flexible in any situation and I think this collection tries to follow that.” Glenn Martens created a dark and sophisticated collection that complied with the desires of the contemporary woman by providing equilibrium between the laidback and the refined. He also experimented with texture, materials and cuts to add to the eccentricity of the collection while staying true to the brands urban lifestyle composition.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Set in a CHANEL themed supermarket with each shelf merchandised with CHANEL produce, the FW14 show presented dressed up daywear with sportswear references. Cut up body hugging trousers and crop top combinations were juxtaposed with bright mismatched geometric prints seen on large coats, long dresses and the lining of coats. There was a theme of matching pairs with an added elegance through layered white pearls. Ruffled pink princess yet chic dresses were edged up with knee length laced up trainers and shiny silver metallic leggings were worn under large tweed overcoats. This was a show of successful contrasts.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Louis Vuitton FW14 show paired complimentary silhouettes and applied a relaxed yet stylish aesthetic to their collection. Luxe and luscious fur was used in a toned down way, opting to apply it to an oversize biker jacket cut with a leather middle belt and ultra-modern shiny leather was seen on skinny trousers, long croc coats and strappy zip up croc leather low cut vests. This was contrasted with 70s references made through geometrics printed onto shirts and tops paired with brown and orange skirts and turtle necks, providing a strong and understated look.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A Bohemian chic was fused with luxe glitzy glamour at the John Galliano FW14 show. Not a usual mix, but wearable and appealing all the same. Earthy tones were splashed onto jumpsuits, floaty dresses and structured, fur collared coats to give a day out in the countryside feel. This was accompanied with chic, uptown glamour represented through luscious velvet and sparkling floor length dresses. The styles clashed triumphantly.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Balenciaga FW14 show presented a contrast in textures and the creative use of zippers as accessories. Shapes were played with by contrasting oversize silhouettes with cross patterning. Continuing the inventive theme, bright interwoven stripes were applied to sweaters and bright neons were worn with striped knitted dresses. The show provided both outlandish options as well as more demure pieces to create something special.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Powerful, strong utilitarianism was presented with the signature intricate Balmain patterning and experimental combinations were worn alongside stripes of leopard print at the Balmain FW ’14 show. The collection was fearless in its obvious extravagance and daring in its combining of jungle style zebra and leopard prints with bright yellow and orange furs. Hip hop style was referenced through all black leather and gold hoop earrings and an inventive rope like texture was used to create unique dresses and tops.
Dries Van Noten - Inspirations, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs
Notable Belgium born fashion designer Dries Van Noten has assembled a collection of his fashion inspirations compiled from his 30 years as a designer in the industry. Dries Van Noten who comes from three generations of tailoring has created an exhibition entitled ‘Dries Van Noten Inspirations’ that explores how he works when it comes to creating his designs and the correlation between art and fashion. The experience provides an excursion into a fascinating creative mind and demonstrates the clash of styles that are present when it comes to drawing influence from various modes such as music, cultural citations and historical references. Stating that “fashion is more than just pretty clothes” Dries allows us to see the beauty of creating fashion through the use of over 400 pieces. The exhibition is about revealing, celebrating and sharing the creative process behind conceiving magnificent clothing and will run until 31st of August 2014 at Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris.
Day 2: Fendi, Prada and Moschino at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Opened by Cara Delevingne wearing a long black overcoat with a hood flamboyantly lined with black fur and carrying a miniature Karl Lagerfeld, the FW Fendi show boasted an extraordinary range of colours, textures and excessive fur. Pairing thigh high black boots with oversized printed sweaters and large coats accessorized with luxurious fur, the show captured edgy elegance in a dazzling array of black, brown, deep blue and orange.
Asymmetrical prints and structured silhouettes personified dominance while bright reds seen on dresses and patent boots exhibited seductive femininity at the Prada FW ’14 show. Sharply tailored blazers were lined with lush fur and sheer long dresses were worn with multi coloured, patterned underwear. Sailor style was referenced through gold lined grey overcoats worn with bright red scarfs and exaggeration was incorporated through brightly colour clashed fur coats.
Fast food meets fashion made for an intriguing mix at the Moschino FW ’14 show. Models graced the catwalk in archetypal McDonald's emblems and colours of yellow and red and CHANEL detailing was incorporated to fuse quirky and classic. The collection transcended into hip hop chic where bags embellished with the words ‘Moschino’ were used as necklaces and lavish fur coats were sported alongside metallic gold jackets, gold chains and glitzy black bomber jackets. Jeremy Scott’s innovative use of SpongeBob prints and cereal box inspired dresses made for an eclectic show that referenced modern as well as youth culture.
HUGO BOSS at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For Fall/Winter 2014/15 young talented creative director Jason Wu showcased a feminine, yet sophisticated debut, that -without question- was able to carry on the brand's DNA. Rich in high-quality fabrics, Jason tailored a line of solid garments out of cashmere and silk hold in black, camel and gray shades. Minimal A-line skirts,long coats with rounded shoulders, next to transparent chiffon dresses made the modern BOSS woman appear self-confident and delicate.
NIKE AIR FORCE 1 x RICCARDO TISCI
Designer and taste maker Riccardo Tisci reinterpreted the Air Force 1, a basketball sneaker well beyond a cultural statement. Many different scenes have adapted the shoe and taken it from the courts to the streets. Nike +R.T. Air Force 1 is all about respect: respect for sportsmanship, respect for an authentic aesthetic, respect for those stars of the basketball court who started the hype, and respect for street culture. Both Tisci and Nike are aware that dissonance creates intrigue produces new inspiring designs. And Riccardo Tisci, the creative director behind über-label Givenchy, is just the right designer for the job.
He created four styles with uppers ranging from low-cut to knee-high. With the Air Force 1 Lo and Air Force 1 Mid, he went a more conventional route; all the while the boot-styles Mid Calf and Knee High appear in highly unusual and dramatically new silhouettes. Multi-colored laces catch the eye and resonate with an almost tribal attitude of a global community. With a shoe as universally appealing as this one, yet very personal, Tisci really dug deep to get to the core of its allure and extract the essence of the Air Force 1 for his designs. He found that the sneaker disregards gender, cities and styles. It is much more part of a democratic community.
The different Nike Air Force 1 x Riccardo Tisci will be available by March 2014.
Dior at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
On monday, at the Dior Haute Couture, Raf Simons focused on the idea of intimacy and showcased elaborately designed garments, in which he dealt with the 'idea of woman per se'. Even the location -a white modernist cave- showed the main idea of the show: soft curves and abstract sculptural expressions.
Speaking of delicacy of handwork, Simons designs had a complex, yet light and clean architectural approach, almost surrounding the bodys like organic shapes and adjusting to their movements. Silk, chiffon and delicate lace sybolized the intimacy of the female body. Chopped-out balloon cocktail dresses or volounious airy skirts were made of semi-transparent fabrics and embellished with repetitive patterns in white, black and pastel colours.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
During the first part of the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2014 collection, it seemed as if Kris van Assche was touching a more nostalgic and romantic part of himself. Tailored pinstriped suits were adorned with lily of the valley-embroideries and brooches representing heirlooms of the house. But gradually the modernist in Kris came to the surface as he began to play with these very classical elements. The pinstripes varied in thickness and the flower-motif was manipulated so that it almost became an camouflage-print. This fresh air of youthfulness was fortified when blue jeans were added to the looks with five-pockets, shirts and a great parka. The same was done with army-green. This collection can be considered as an evolution of the Dior house in it's entirety as Homme remains the cool and modern menswear brand, but at the same time the mens- and womenswear are gradually finding each other again. With Kris van Assche at menswear and Raf Simons at womenswear, the two Belgian head designers are both looking at the past of the house, but only to push it to horizons it has never been.
Saint Laurent Paris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mentioning rock and roll when talking about Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent is pretty much old news. Music, in all it's forms, is more than incorporated in the designers approach towards the fashion house. The soundtrack to his most recent outing was by the band Froth from Slimane's current whereabouts in Los Angeles. Coming fall, Saint Laurent Paris boasts Teddy Boys as the iconic men of the moment. Animal-prints were used on shirts and leather jackets and the shoe of the season was an updated creeper. Big coats in fur or tweed oozed subcultural excitement as well as traditional savoir-faire. The tailoring took note of the fifties youth-culture with three-buttoned suits, drainpipe legs, houndstooth, checks and classic trenches in gabardine or leather.
Patrick Mohr at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Freedom expresses a person’s ability to act upon their will. However, this statement’s boundaries hold true for the fashion world in particular. Dark-skinned models are still a rare commodity in designer’s shows. Patrick Mohr, the German fashion scenes enfant terrible, casted dark-skinned models exclusively for work hard. be mohr. – making a loud statement against arbitrary boundaries. With his show, he enticed the spectator to ponder questions of values and autonomy of decision. Front and center of Mohr’s tenth show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was model Papis Loveday.
His first, and only, appearance during Berlin Fashion Week along with choreographer Nikeata Thompson was a really special moment – an implosion of convention. And even though Mohr almost solely focused on the color blue, on its strength and its interaction with his designs, his fall/winter 2014/15 collection may very well be the most versatile vision of the designer to date. In all its facets, the strong cyan can be seen in blousons, coats, shirts, pants and even in ribbed leggings and socks. The coats had triangular crocodile appliqués on the back and sleeves - Mohr’s signature, which has so far accompanied ten invaluable seasons.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The setting for the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2014 show was a fenced basketball field, a literal reference to the main inspiration of the collection. Riccardo Tisci used several trademarks from the sport, like the orange hems that reminded of the Knicks, seams from basketballs and marks used on the field. Other influence for Tisci was the Bauhaus movement, which explained itself in the lines and big bands used as pockets on pants and to gather fur vests.The overall impression was very street, with some posh exceptions. Take for instance the classic sleeveless jersey that was made of fur rather than nylon mesh. Most outings fit right in with the Givenchy-vocabulary but the newness of the collection were the outings that consisted a wide, slightly flared pair of trousers and a knee-length slim coat.
Boris Bidjan Saberi at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The poetic collection Boris Bidjan Saberi showed for this fall and winter came from his vision on the Ottoman Empire and Topkapi architecture. At the same time it was the designer's most essential collection to date, taking his aesthetic and perfecting it with refined tailoring. The balanced collection sported some more athletic details like rucksacks and sneakers as well as subtle prints and long wraps, nonchalantly draped over sharp leather jackets.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Dries van Noten looked extra confident today when he took his bow after the Fall/Winter 2014 mens presentation. And why wouldn't he? His past seasons have not only gathered him raving reviews but also a loyal fan base and he just delivered another stellar collection. Instead of exploiting the formula he is known for, he took his core and moved on. There was still an aloof and bohemian spirit to the clothes, but Dries infused it with decadence from the sixties and seventies and more surprisingly: neon. Tie-dyed pants and jackets, victorian blouses and furs were all energized by colors as fuchsia, green and lemon. New was the graphic patchwork on flowing parka's and biker jeans.
22/4_hommes at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
22/4 presented their fall/winter 2014 menswear line in Yoyo in Palais the Tokyo, which now is a popular nightclub but once functioned as the famous cinémathèque. The collection was an exercise in urban sleekness and rigorous brutality. Oversized coats and baggy suits were cinched by colorful elastic bands or wide cummerbund-style belts. Other sporty outings were jogging pants and cropped sweaters, worn over crisp white shirts. The brutality set in with hats, jackets and backs of vests in natural fur. The bomber-jacket, the item pur sang to survive the urban jungle, made several appearances, first draped nonchalantly over a suit but later the recognizable orange lining saw itself transformed in bags and accessories. The balance in those extremes made for an collection both aggressive and delicate.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At John Varvatos, looks are fearless, confident and as usual influenced by Varvatos passion for Rock' n' Roll. So of course Kiss, in the main soundtrack accompanied his muses, when they pranced down the runway. John‘s leather looks were mainly black, often in shimmery shades, combined with white suits. Throughout the edgy spirit, elegancy is not getting lost.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Philipp Plein's cowboy and Wild Western-themed collection, was born out of his childhood memories, when he dreamt of empty saloons, sheriffs on horses and hunted banditos. His looks were sometimes topless and accessorized with saddles, bolo ties, badges, reptile belts and fringes. Crystal studded blazers, biker jackets and sheriff dusters were the highlights of the show, which ended by a performance of legendary rapper Angel Haze.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Jil Sander showcased a delciate and subtle collection playing with the senses of structure, surface movement and colour. It almost begs the viewer to touch it‘s shimmery fabrics and promises a haptic experience. On the contray, purple cashmere sweaters with geometric knits create a rather flattering atmosphere. This season‘s tailoring resembles to well-known Jil Sander aesthetics: silhouettes are neat. Boxy jackets on top of slim cutted cigarettes pants dominate numerous looks.
Lou Dalton & Astrid Andersen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2014
As designer Lou Dalton has established herself as a starlet of British Menswear, no other than her was destined to open the first day of festivities at London Collections: Men. Alongside punk-inspired streatwear elements and chic tailored suit jackets, her creations were built on the inspiration of her grandfather’s farm and it‘s workers. Lou Dalton‘s signature of contemporary classicism and refined tailoring got crossed by pieces in acid-pink denim.
Astrid Andersen Fall/Winter 2014
Only four years after Astrid Anders graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Art MA course, the successful Danish designer for Fall/Winter 2014 hit the zeitgeist with a modern, luxurious street style collection. Sticking to her use of exclusive fabrics, the line was based on shiny satin's, laces and faux furs. The 'Astrid' branding emblazoned hoodies,T-shirts and underlined the graphical demand that make all of her collections unique. Other key elements were asymmetric strapless and cropped tops. Down Jackets and silver chains gave the final finish and a slight 90ies spark.
Kaviar Gauche 'Fleur De Force'
Since in 2004 Johanna Kuhl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler created their unique style, it's not possible to imagine the fashion universe without Kaviar Gauche's femine designs. With the delicate yet strong collection 'Fleur De Force' the Berlin-based fashion label welcomed the Spring/Summer season 2014. The two charming founders for this occasion chose the St. Agnes church in Berlin, Kreuzberg to present the collection and show it in a rather minimalistic and industrial ambience. A light installation rotating to the rhythm of 'Einstein on the beach' by Phillip Glass graced the show with artificial golden sunlight and underlined it's cool and antagonistic spirit.
The collection is influenced by floral and contrasting graphic elements dominated by warm and light-beige colours, besides silver-grey combined with the classic Kaviar Gauche shades, such as ivory and black. In addition to the mix of silk, organza and leather, the line features the modern laser cut in blossom shapes. Next to the ready-to-wear collection the designer duo showcased dresses of the Bridal Couture 2014 putting the focus on the opulent Pavot dress, made of silk laces. In the selection of suitable accessories the exclusive garments find a final conclusion.
Ermenegildo Zegna's L.A. Global Store
To celebrate the opening of it's new global boutique on Rodeo Drive, the luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna hosted an exclusive soiree at the new designed three floor Concept store. Italian fashion designer and Zegna's Creative Head, Stefano Pilati showcased an impressive preview of the Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection, including mohair suits, wool gabardine jackets and floral jacquard knits. As always focusing on success, excellence and craftsmanship, the now available selection in the store dedicates to Italian high-quality heritage and ranges from clothing to accessories and fragrances, and from formalwear to sportswear, made of exclusive materials that have distinguished Zegna for over a century now.
The Beverly Hills boutique was designed by renowned architect Peter Marino and creates an extravagant ambiance, dominated by brownish, earthy and golden beige shades. The interior designs of the boutique echo the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style and enrich the visual shoppong experience in store, accompanied by a chic VIP room in the top floor devoted to personal shopping.Invited guests, such as legendary actress Sharon Stone and musician Gavin Rossdale, enjoyed a unique dinner and cocktail night at the JF Chen design gallery, and experienced the new creative concept behind the campaign Eminences Grises, shot by the two renowned photographers Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Under the artistic direction of Pilati the campaign images have been set up in the event space and marked another highlight of the opening.
The new global store is located on 337 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.
NEIGHBORHOOD for Converse Sneaker
NEIGHBORHOOD, the exclusive lifestyle denim brand from Tokyo and Converse presented their first joint project, the first String Holiday 2013 collection, through adding a slight Japanese touch to the most two well-known Converse classics. When the Japanese clothing brand was founded in 1994 by Shinsuke Takizawa, NEIGHBORHOOD immediately succeeded with their motorcycle culture inspired designs, which also gets visible in this very unique collection. Combining classic Converse DNA with the Japanese brand's own vision, the two iconic staples are processed with high quality materials: the Jack Purcell Johnny Mid, made of deep petrol blue leather with tonal stitching and the All Star Chuck '70 Ox realized in a blue suede, both with white midsoles and toe-caps.
The First String's Premium sneaker collection is available in selected Converse retailers across the globe since the 1st of November 2013. For more information visit
Azzedine Alaïa and Women
By Ria de Borja
Alaïa, an exhibit chronicling the designer’s career and influence in fashion, recently opened at Palais Galliera, musée de la mode de la ville de Paris. The exhibit goes through the designer’s history, designs, techniques, inspirations - and his penchant for women, including famous actresses. Azzedine Alaïa was born in Tunisia and attended the country’s École des Beaux-arts. “I used to spend my nights oversewing dresses for a local dressmaker in order to pay for my school equipment. I learned the different stitches by doing my sister Hafida’s sewing exercises because she wasn’t very keen on manual skills,” says Alaïa in the exhibition catalogue. Soon after, the designer finished his studies and was encouraged to move to Paris by a family friend.
“The designers who have made a lasting impression on the history of fashion are those who have concentrated on celebrating and liberating the body. Of all contemporary creators, it is Alaïa who has best embodied this spirit since the 1980s, using precise seams and darts to produce a silhouette that has become his hallmark,” says Olivier de Saillard, director of the Galliera museum and the exhibit’s curator. “He drew inspiration from the spirited style and arrogance of personalities like Arletty and Louise de Vilmorin.”
Alaïa met the French actress Arletty in Paris in 1960. “She’s the one who gave me the idea of making skin-tight dresses. She was used to adjusting the volume of her skirt with a pin. ‘It falls too well, she used to say. It has to be skewed somewhere.’” Towards 1971, he was inspired by Greta Garbo: “She came with a friend, Cécile de Rothschild, and wanted me to make a very full- bodied coat. I remember some fitting sessions and measuring sessions. The coat was never big enough for her taste.
At a time when everything was tight- fitting, the 1970s, I had to make an immense, navy-blue coat for her, with turned- up sleeves. In the 1980s and 1990s, I often presented huge coats with generous shoulders, a definite nod to Garbo, to her inimitable and avant-gardist style.” When he met Louise de Vilmorin, he was further schooled in fashion: “Meeting her I realized that Parisian chic was all about the little details. One evening when Louise de Vilmorin was supposed to go to a dinner, she asked me to help her put the finishing touches to her outfit.
She remembered that she had seen a concierge wearing a cardigan from a department store like Prisunic so we bought it. We replaced the buttons with something more elaborate in metal and put a long ordinary chain around her neck that she rolled up and plunged into a pocket. It was a demonstration in just a few seconds of her inimitable sense of style, and she got a lot of envious looks that evening.” Over the course of his career, the designer has created collections that include leather or waxed fabrics perforated with eyelets, skirts laced at the back, metal zippers running from the neckline to the hemline, tight and structured leather suits, seamed stretch jersey dresses, leather tube dress with asymmetrical folds revealing the naked skin, stretch jersey hood dresses and coats with hood collars and reversible boleros with strips of mink. “Alaïa fashioned a new body, like a sculptor working with muslin and leather. Inventing new shapes out of simple interplay between complex stitchings, Alaïa became the creator of a timeless body of work. His influence on today’s fashion is fundamental,” says Saillard.
In 1986, Alaïa presented Naomi Campbell in her first fashion show (she was 16). “Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa, Veronica Webb, Stephanie Seymour, Marie-Sophie Wilson, I am grateful to them all for accompanying me through all the research and the long posing, fitting and tweaking sessions. If I don’t have models before my eyes I have no ideas. I need to see their bodies near me,” says the designer. He acknowledges the profound influence women have had on him: “I have never followed fashion. Women have always dictated my behaviour. I make clothes, women make fashion.”
Onitsuka Tiger's ‘My Town My Tracks'
Sports lifestyle brand Onitsuka Tiger takes on Tokyo's diverse backstreets for Fall/Winter 2013. In ‘My Town My Tracks' three natives explore their urban lifestyles and neighborhoods. Through the power of images and film the juxtaposition of this modest and outgoing, quirky and elegant culture, which is the birthplace of Onitsuka Tiger, is related. British photographer Laurence Ellis snapped Asami, a barista and actress in the hip Shimokitazawa district, artist Que, while wandering around counterculture hub Kichijoji, and Chris - the third local - cycling around Nakameguro, a quiet residential area.
The trio showcases models from the upcoming, running-inspired street collection through 1,000 candid Instagram photos, which can be seen on Onitsuka Tiger’s official Instagram profile, @onitsukatigerhq. Throughout this personal city tour, the ULT-RACER and HARANDIA take center stage. Both shoes are inspired by the brand’s running heritage. The HARANDIA features performance technology and will go down in Onitsuka Tiger’s history as its first shoe to feature GEL technology, for extra cushioning and comfort, all the while. As a special gimmick, it’s the brand’s first shoe to have Onitsuka Tiger written on the heel tab in Japanese.
The other shoe featured - the ULT-RACER - is a modern interpretation of the ULTIMATE 81, which was one of the brand’s most famous running shoes in the 80s. Sleek nylon, a chunky sole and herringbone rubber pattern make this a great allrounder for everyday explorations. Both models come in seven combinations as well as three specifically female fits.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 Miu Miu adorned the runway with exclusive garments hitting the spirit of the swinging sixties. Miuccia Prada sent out retro looking coats with big buttons, fringe-beaded dresses in a range of vivid and pastel colours. Wool tights were combined with twin set tops and patent leather skirts in pastel colours.Cuts and shapes were slightly remininding of schoolgirl uniforms.Wild patterns and prints of ornaments showing birds, cats and flowers highlighted fluffy coats. Paying attention to those eye-catching details, the collection was playful, girlish yet sophisticated and feminine, what in other words defines Miu Miu as an extravagant brand.
Wunderkind at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Spring/ Summer 2014 collection was a prelude to celebrate individualism and free thinking as if there is nothing left to loose. Inspired by the wild flair of the 70ies, stunning floral dresses with floating silhouettes, high-waisted hotpants and fringed leather jackets underlined the main theme and created an effortless and liberated spirit, that shouldn‘t be missing at an un- forgettable performance. Chiffon garments in acid colours and vibrant prints, next to sporty leggings made of transluscent fabrics and elements of baseball tricots completed this energetic and charismatic ambience and added a touch of youthness.
22/4_femmes at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Stephanie Hahn, the designer of 22/4_femmes, has her roots in pattern making, which makes her a gem of know how in the middle of superficial big ideas. The way she cuts a shoulder on her new T-shirt is only one example of the way Hahn structures and controls a fabric. For Spring/Summer 2014, the designer looked at Jazz Age tennis player Suzanne Lenglen, resulting in a minimal, sportive collection without neglecting the feminine. Relaxed silhouettes with big striped trousers and shirts were vamped up with brazeers in the same fabric. As Lenglen, also known as „the Divine“, never wore an underskirt while playing, an exercise in transparency gave the collection depth and light.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Jil Sander‘s performance on fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was straightforward, linear and dominated by precise cuts. After the german fashion designer has left the brand twice and now is back, this Spring/Summer 2014 feels liberated and relaxed, perhaps because Sander now has finally arrived. According to be the “Queen of less“, the show demonstrated, that less sometimes is more. Being loyal towards her standards and principles, this collection was “Joyful Serenity“ and minimalism par excellence. Made of a combination of simple shapes and unique materials, Sander has showcased stunning garments, highlighted by her pure style elements, she is being adored for. Belly tops and midi skirts gave a shimmer of youthness, slightly wide capri pants and buttonless blazers added some elegant key notes, all in a rather restrained colour palatte.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2014 show was inspired by the spirit of nature and flaunted with modern qualities. Rippling water reflections and shadows on plants glazed on exclusive garments, in juxtaposition to floral patterns and imaginative, abstract watercolour illustrations. Shadows of tropical flowers in a colour palette of pale blues, greens, grays and dawn pinks completed the whole appearance.
Casual outfits included a range of double-pleat and widly-cutted pants and leggings that covered the skin like a tattoo. Flowing jackets in glossy and monochrome looks and elementary shapes, next to sleeveless silk dresses conjured a symbolic modernity accessorized with colour-matching clutches and handbags.
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2014
Creative director Emma Hill showcased exclusive garments for the traditional english brand Muberry. To invite guests to its London Fashion Week show, Mulberry decided to send miniature teacups and saucers created by iconic English tableware and lifestyle brand Wedgwood. The miniatures were- held inside a box embossed with a traditional stately home, the guests’ first glimpse of the catwalk theme. The ‘dolls house’ teacup and saucer were based on the Wedgwood Jasperware in traditional Jasperware colours, which also beautifully reflected the seasonal tones in the Mulberry’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection.
Approaching a playful spirit, the designer managed to showcase a combination on traditional looks on one side and modernism on the other side. Speaking of British Heritage the collection included good quality fabrics such as luxury silk and leathers, all in creamy whites and monochromic colours. Culottes and wide overall’s, sleeveless dresses with flower patterns and leather skirts with simple tailored voluminous blouses on top played the key role in this extraordinary selection of pieces.
Calvin Klein at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Speaking the language of minimalism and innovation, Francisco Costa, who is Creative Director for Clavin Klein since 10 years now, put on the final run at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Simple, oversized and unfinished looking pieces gave an industrial, experimental look.
Knee lenght skirts, on top oversized tops and wide-strap dresses were made of unique fabrics like woven snakeskin, silk and multicoloured yarn. Inspired just by a simple boys‘ T-Shirt and potato bags, Francisco experimented on taking apart, fringing and fraying his exclusive fabrics, that were dominated by white, bright sandy and black colours.
Hervé Léger by Max Azira, Mara Hoffman, Lacoste, Jill Stuart at NYFW
Third day at the New York Fashion Week brought up a number of remarkable styles. Designer Max Azira showcased his collection of pieces for Hervé Léger with geometrical printed patterns, sharp silhouettes, combined with leather pieces and added zippers. The show was accompanied by strong dynamic drum rhythms and thrilling beats.
Hervé Léger Spring/ Summer 2014
Mara Hoffman Spring/ Summer 2014
Continuing in Lacoste’s efforts to keep a certain contemporary look - Oliveria Baptista created remarkable pieces with a slight touch of sportswear. He sticks to the old image of tennis courts in strong colours such as clay browns, rosy beiges and dusty pastels.
Lacoste Spring/ Summer 2014
Last but not least speaking of Jill Stuart -who opened the show with a high waisted black skirt and a rounded shoulder top - is bringing back the seventies.
Jill Stuart Spring/ Summer 2014
New Mulberry Bayswater Shoulder Bag
It is surely a testament to design when an accessory comes to be a celebrity in itself; sacrosanct and scrutinised by an adoring public, Mulberry’s Bayswater bag is just that – a cult style staple that is at once practical and ever en vogue. Though change is in the air this Fall/Winter, as a handsome adaptation of the label’s dearest descendant is sure to cause quite a stir among disciples and decriers alike.
Effortless and unassuming, the new Bayswater Shoulder bag is very much the cooler, cultured cousin to Mulberry’s iconic original – insouciant and bare but for its enviable quantities of uncalculated chic. Exquisitely crafted leathers case its humble frame, streamlined to its classic and quintessential components. In Autumnal hues of taupe, crimson, plum and midnight blue, the superb grain of the polished skins comes to surface, from grainy calf and goat hides, to tactile lizard prints. Alongside this novel addition to the lineage, is the Bayswater Double Zip Tote; a distinguishable relation to its ancestor, but reworked, this time with an optimised layout, made possible by a zipped compartment layout. All the while, dependably present is the charming motif of the classic Bayswater – or, rather, any Mulberry handbag worth its salt – in the form of its plated postman’s lock – a Royal seal, if ever there were one. Only one element is sure to stay consistent to such a tumultuous collection: it won’t be long before the Bayswater Shoulder is seen to be a pin-up in its own right.
Available online and in stores as part of the Fall/Winter 13 Main Collection
Ralph Lauren to Restore École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts
The École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris has acquired worldwide recognition as an institution to nurse such masters of design as Valentino Garavani and Hubert de Givenchy. Artists, too, have flourished under its coaching, with Degas, Marisse and Monet all walking through its magnificent doors. It's pertinent, then, that one of the greatest designers of our time has pledged to honor its two-year restoration by funding several millions of dollars towards the project.
The campus buildings date back to the 17th century, and house a 90-foot mural by French painter, Paul Delaroche.The historic semicircular lecture theatre that forms the heart of the school will be renovated with stadium-like seating and top-of-the-range audio-visual equiptment. It's cobblestone courtyard, meanwhile, will undergo significant work as part of the plans, which, once completed, will host a gala dinner and Fall/Winter catwalk show by Lauren on October 8th, making his first European show.
Prada Marks 100th Anniversary with Galleria Restoration Project
Setting up shop in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 1913, Mario Prada – father of the legendary fashion house – opened the first of many Prada boutiques under the roof of Milan's most spectacular shopping mall. A neo-classical landmark, the ornate architecture of its breathtaking façade is all part of the romance in the Prada story.
In fitting commemoration to its centenary, Prada plan to reinforce its roots with an extensive restoration of an entire quadrant of the Galleria, opening onto its historic central intersection and adjacent to its current residence. The Prada Galleria was waved in by the launch of a new dedicated menswear store.
At 400m², it occupies not even a tenth of the proposed development, saving room for more sales space, event areas, a restaurant, an exhibition hall for contemporary art under the Prada Foundation and brand headquaters. The ambitious renovation will encompass a thorough reworking of the vicinity, from interior layout to its outer structure, sculpting a complex for culture, business and lifestyle in the heart of the city, and under the magnificent roof of a monumental Milanese fixture.
Bottega Veneta Opens New Los Angeles Concept Store
Descending on the distinguished surroundings of Melrose Place, Bottega Veneta will open its doors to the most neighbourly luxury retail quater of Los Angeles with a freshly conceived concept. Its ivied façade left virtually untouched, the interior of the 2, 727 square feet store will tailor to discerning L.A tastes with sleek displays intergrated into a gallery setting, designed to strip down the artistry of each product to its bare essence. Displays will be curated to impart a selection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, gifts and home accessories succinctly, with emphasis on a tailor-made shopping experience for its clients.
Sliding steel fixtures and mesh panels will industrialize its pristine white shell, opened up by its flooding light and clean lines. The vision of Creative Director Tomas Maier, unexplored design combinations based on clarity and space set the boutique apart from its relations. Transparent resin imbeds mesh for a futuristic feel, while white frosted glass and lacquered wood enhance the sense of slenderness – a touch taken even further with the addition of its open-air courtyard.
Iceberg Celebrate 400th Anniversary of Amsterdam's Canals
This year the city of Amsterdam celebrates the 400th anniversary of its characteristic Canal Ring. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the canals will play host to jubilant commemoration throughout 2013. One such reveller is the sportswear label Iceberg, whose Ice Iceberg store finds home on the city's legendary shopping street, PC Hoofstraat.
Iceberg climbled aboard the aptly named Juliana flat bottom boat, – a fitting tribute to Gilmar founder, Giuliana Marchini Gerani – before sailing down the Herengracht Canal to the Munttoren Tower, soaking up the bounty of sights on offer from the charming aspect of the water.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring/Summer 2014
It's not often that a designer can pull off 'sailor' without pieces looking caricatures of their influences. Though that's exactly what Boris Bidjan Saberi has accomplished with his latest Spring/Summer collection. Perhaps that's because his eye has always been close to the source; penned from his seaside workshop, maritime garments find new function in the modern man's wardrobe, pooling in the weather-beaten folds of slouched silhouettes.
Ropey knits in murky off-whites bear the industrial scuffs of hard labour, underwritten by the utilitarian buckled fastenings of cropped life jackets. Waxed cotton sweaters are somehow made unspeakably modern, layering light jerseys and oversized pants etched in grainy graphic prints.
Boat sails are reworked to breathe authenticity into hooded cloaks, their original seams still visible so as not to mask character. Yellow waders and fishermen jackets are tailored to question the possibilities of function, narrated by removable sleeved jackets, adjustable length pants and an integrated backpack vest.
Stripes, too, are redefined, their identity chanellenged as they struggle to keep in line on asymmetric cuts. In a palette of worn whites and greying navy, marine wear, here, evades the obvious by all possible costs.
Laurèl Spring/Summer 2014
Elisabeth Schwaiger creates high quality pieces from leather, silk and jersey. For Laurèl's spring/summer 2014 collection she drew inspiration from Asia's aesthetic language. As a result, the designs are modern, urban and infused with exotic impressions. The color palette for spring/summer 2014 is framed in black and white with a vibrant impressionist print in and strong one-pieces in turqoise or purple. The Asian influence adds a relaxed touch to the smart clothes, which are suitable for all occasions from the office to the beach.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Salon Show Spring/Summer 2014 Green Showroom
Sustainability is growing ever more important in fashion and the green showroom during Berlin Fashion Week provides a platform for sustainable labels. At the salon show 20 brands showcased 54 looks from avant-garde designs to delicate silk dresses and fine blouses as well as all the way to accessories. Among the labels were renowned designers such as Lanius or Elsien Gringhuis and Swiss label Royal Blush by Jana Keller / Johanna Riplinger, who employ plant-based treatments for the leather and organic salmon they use -all made locally. Their collection is simple, reduced and puristic. For a more rock 'n' roll vibe, designer Aleks Kurkowski combines straight forward, avant-garde designs with relaxed urbanity and the essential thought of sustainability. Once again, the show proofed that fashion and awareness can create something beautiful.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg
For the fifth year running, Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and Fashion ID have awarded the 'Designer for Tomorrow' award during MBFWB. As a visible platform for creativity, it gives up- and coming talents the opportunity to present their designs. This year's patron Stella McCartney helped mentor the finalists and gave them advise ahead of their showcase. The five designers were Katy Clark, Jamie Wei Huang and Ioana Ciulacu Miron from the UK as well as Hannah Kuklinski and Annalena Skörl Maul from Germany. With her collection 'Paradox', Ioana Ciulacu Miron took the award. For her it is all about contrasts. Her creations are soft and flowing, appear structured and feminine while simultaneously expressing a masculine strength. A diversity of materials like wool, plastic, chiffon and even plastic foam fuse in quite extraordinary unity. The prints on the pieces kept in subdued color were all hand-drawn by the designer herself. Having won over the jury and the audience, Ioana is 2013's 'Designer for Tomorrow'.
Patrick Mohr Spring/Summer 2014
The injustice of humanity is a tricky subject to broach at the best of times. Through a fashion collection, however, the challenge grows near insurmountable. But where others see impossibility, Patrick Mohr sees an obstacle to be conquered.
The presentation of Mohr's Spring/Summer collection was unorthadox, to say the least. But then again, who could expect anything less? Succinctly entitled Human, the line takes an avant-garde take on couture, fusing with streetwear to evoke the idea that we are all equal.
Beautiful models were made repugnant by beards and monobrows, while society's most marginalised were pushed to the forefront, taking to the stage in Mohr's thought-provoking designs. Disabled, Body-building and transgender mannequins sported baggy printed vests and T-shirts – a tired pair of eyes staring as its sole motif. With unfinished seams, the look was poignantly run-down.
White dresses were magnificently pure; folded crisply and escaping all embellishment, they were a testament to artful restraint. In thick plain bolts, they skirted – even lined the floors, their fantastic immaculacy stripping down an aesthetic to a utilitarian skeleton.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall 2013
Few people do couture like Jean Paul Gaultier. His affinity with provocative excess brands him a soulmate for the season, often shamelessly themed and always a little decadent.
Flamboyance, as custom, knew no bounds – a conclusion that could be made from the very first look, through the chunky tufts of fur and layers of leopard-skin. Hair too, was skinned in spots – statuesque and towering heads brazenly with the callous confidence of a cavewoman.
Color palette made a surreptitiously subdued entrance, but fooled noone into thinking this would be a show made of strictly natural hues. After all, it is Jean Paul Gaultier. While sandy browns kept quiet, inflated shapes made a cacophonous bang – chunky quilting piped volume in lines and tapered pants grew pockets so accommodating they became closer cousins to harems.
Velvets, feathers and furs ran with the raucous sense of feminine pride bestowed by Gaultier, amplified by bejewelling tones of piercing green and electrifying fuchsia. His characteristically crafted impression of the female form, meanwhile, did not go overlooked. Puffa-like piping etched the distinguishing features of the bustier, cinching waists and rounding at the hips, deciding whether to tulip or flare. Lavish it may have been, but limitless it most definitely was.
Sissi Goetze Spring/Summer 2014
The spring/summer 2014 collection had a 1990s hip-hop feel to it. Visors are the hot weather update of Sissi Goetze’s somewhat signature accessories: the cap. Since a man in shorts is super relaxed, Sissi Goetze made loose-cut, shiny black drawstring shorts. The focus of the collection is on black and denim materials. Aside from cropped pants, Sissi Goetze has men in layered, overlapping clothes next summer. Color choices for spring/summer 2014 range from light blue to safari style camel. The designer’s unconventional approach to contemporary menswear is a nod to every man’s inner rascal.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
MALAIKARAISS Spring/Summer 2014
Amidst the hyped New Objectivity, MALAIKARAISS spring/summer 2014 collection found itself between the purism, extravagance and wearability. Pleated collars, asymmetric features and contrasting lining added intrigue to the designs. For next summer, Malaika Raiss played with different length seems, varying textures and see through elements. Her fabrics of choice are silk, soft leather and knit which made for fun pieces such as berry colored leather shorts or an easy, see through maxi dress in light rose.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Fendi for Fountains
Roman by birth, the Fendi fashion house is to pay gratitude to its heritage by funding a major restoration of Rome's ancient fountains, including the Trevi Fountain and the Quattro Fontane complex. Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi has sourced illimitable inspiration from the city, and hope to pay tribute to both its striking beauty and historical identity through the preservation project.
“Rome is eternal, therefore, there is no better place: Rome has changed and has not changed,” said Karl Lagerfeld, who has been head designer and creative director of the brand since 1965, marking the longest collaboration between a designer and fashion house. Lagerfeld, who claims to have visited Rome over 740 times, has also photographed the most iconic fountains of the city, ready to showcase in an exhibition entitled The Glory of Water.
Running from July 4th-14th in Rome's sister city of Paris, the exhibition will be displayed in five domes, symbolic of Rome's iconic cupolas. The Glory of Water is to make history as the largest ever display of daguerreotypes, as fifty prints will exploit the now nearly extinct traditional processing technique. Upheld for its mirror-like realism, daguerreotype printing is now only practiced by 6 master printers around the world, and the history of the technique will make a dedicated feature at the exhibition. The event promises a multi-sensory environment, with photographs accompanied by the music of Vivaldi, contemporary digital compositions and the sounds of the water from the fountains themselves. By the Ponte Alexandre III on the banks of the Seine, its showing will coinside with the opening of Fendi's new boutique, its Maison moving from number 22 to 51 Avenue Montaigne.
The 600m² store was designed with the vision of femininity in mind; bathed in soft bronze lighting, an abundance of rich textures - from velvet and leather to natural stone – form the curves of the space. In tune with Fendi's Roman roots, walls are covered in travertine plates, clad to enhance the height of the vertical structure. The ground floor will host an installation surrounding the iconic Baguette bag, where a wall pierced with 30, 000 bronze needles will display the different styles, representative of the craftsmanship behind their fur pieces. Here too, will be a made-to-order service space, where bags from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag can be customised to a unique specification of colors, leathers and finishes, while the Haute Fourrure room above will allow clients to create bespoke fur items.
Perhaps most exciting about Fendi's contribution to the project, is another kind of restoration, this time of the film Histoire d'Eau by Jacques de Bascher. Shot in 1977 and starring Suzie Dyson, Bascher's eighteen-minute piece gave way to the concept of the fashion film, intended to present Karl Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear and fur collection for Fendi. The story of a young woman who travels to Rome, she bathes in the city's fountains, stowing their water in glass vials. Her parents, meanwhile, believe her to be holidaying at a Spa in Baden-Baden. The last shot depicts the woman transformed into a mannequin, standing in the window of the Fendi boutique – the jars of water drawn from the fountains of Rome lined behind her. And so the restoration gives truth to its name: Rome really is the Eternal City.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
It was the second time Hedi Slimane presented a runway collection for men at Saint Laurent and, like we'd come to expect from him, it was a polarizing one. This season, he looked at the fifties and Teddy Boys, hence the ducktail hair, baseball jackets and rockabilly buckled boots. The last look, a model wearing a black tux and fire-red hair, was a clear reference to the designer's icon, David Bowie, who started it all for him. Slimane, both the designer and the photographer, is obsessed with youth culture and music and it was the rock and roll atmosphere that oozed from this collection with band members walking the runway in a dome-like setting. It may not be the Saint Laurent we think we know but it is a fact that Yves himself was also interested in youth-culture and in that way, Hedi is pushing the house forward while staying in line with it's traditions. At the end of the day, he is starting one of the most interesting discussions in fashion at the moment.
Givenchy Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
It has actually been a few seasons that Riccardo Tisci did the very black and gothic collections that made him famous. Lately he had been much more optimistic; the pre-spring collection was full of flower-prints, for example. This continues for Spring/Summer 2014 in a collection that was inspired by geeks and tribes. Tisci took a trip to L.A. and was obsessed by its skater culture which led him to vintage hi-tech. This goes surprisingly well with his other inspiration, Africa, in a way that some prints were confusing: photo-print of a record-player or a traditional African pattern? Very strong were the printed parkas and the times he used see-through fabrics, like the pants and a flesh-toned jacket (which was actually made of a very new knitting technique). The tribal face painting enforced the influences and the strength of the models/warriors.
Rick Owens Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Out of the darkness, bandmembers arived on the catwalk rather than models at the Rick Owens show. Shortly after came a installation twirling the band's drummers around while performing. The clothing of the collection was in line with this exciting performance with lots of black, leather and strings dancing around the models. Last season, Rick brought his man back to the street and this season he continued this path. The most precise example of that are the sneakers he designed with Adidas, that were finally presented to the public.
Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The great designer of melancholia and poetic sensibility, Ann Demeulemeester, outed a emotional collection full of greatly cut jackets and shorter pants. She started with a couple of white looks delicately embroidered with black patterns. Later on the collection took on colors like dusty pink and dark purple that gave the collection more depth, but never made it heavy. The collection had a victorian air but it was kept modern with light cottons and fluid silks. The models wore subtle black make-up around their eyes to highlight both the rocker and the poet that is the Ann Demeulemeester man.
Missoni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Missoni held its own this season with its tawny marl knits. Skinny-cut suits in all varieties of biscuit beige swept down the runway, primary red standing as the most alarming punctuation to a taupe camouflage. Stripes recurred, as did zigzag – this time unassuming in hushed tones. Shawl-collared knits lent a touch of femininity, but brutish beards took it all away.
Like luggage stickers plastered across a battered leather valise, patchwork prints edged with trimmings left the hallmark of the nomad. Drawstring pouches, too, dangled from necks like that of a wandering shaman – Missoni’s designs the handsome remedy.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2014
As a label for whom tri-stripes and padding make up the fabric of the brand, it's a wonder Moncler Gamme Bleu hadn't met cricket whites before. With untainted purity, bulksome shapes gleam, punctured only by the invasive underscore of tri-colored edging.
Long socks meet shorts somewhere in the middle, knees bared like the inverse of padding. Protectivewear, as it happens, can be remarkably stylish. Shielding limbs with voguish concern, quilting and mesh gave depth, as well as dynamism. Vests skirt in aproned defence – paired with padded blazers, the effect is assuredly masculine. Edges rounded by patent binding steer the look from severity, jumping the fine line that divides clinical and futuristic. Nylon webbing, while sporty, can't help but seem space-age, making white lace-up ankle saddles appear all the more like moonboots. Who knew safety gear could be so directional?
Vivienne Westwood Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
So the spirit of the libertine made it onto the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood - what else is new? Perhaps a topical political statement will suffice. The heart of the collection’s theme, Truth, was not just worn on its sleeves, but rather fully emblazoned sandwich-board style across the chest. Printed T-shirts carried a stencilled impression of uniformed soldier Bradley Manning, an alleged source to the WikiLeaks scandal. Not worlds apart in style from the emblematic image of Che Guevara, both icon and models who bore it donned berets fit for battle. The medium may have been subtle, but the message was strong.
Westwood, by her very nature, likes to shine a light on the side-lined. All the while being radical, the line was designed to cater to the eclectic tastes of the bohemian traveller; think breathable linens and a penchant for print. Heritage checks fused with harems, but just when you thought designs were headed for tradition, pieces would throw out a host of contradictions. Silk cummerbunds were swapped for boxer-bearing jean, and neckerchiefs dressed up but deconstruction tore down: vive la revolution, vive Westwood.
Mulberry Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Can Mulberry help but conjure a wonderfully whimsical campaign? With Tim Walker in tow, it would be foolish to expect anything otherwise. Oxfordshire's Shotover House provided the aristocratic setting, made all the more magical by the other half of Walker's imagination: set designer Shona Heath.
Framed by a typically period setting, doll's house trimmings are the perfect partner for the porcelain features of model Cara Delevigne – a quality only further accentuated by her stoic air.
Crooked branches creep eerily into frame – a homely haunt for the wildlife of the woodland – tipped by shrinking buds and starkly bare twigs. Camel and oxblood take preppy cuts, reflected by its Oxfordshire setting. Leather and black stir a sombre concoction, whilst all-white puritan shapes radiate with a deceptively angelic snowy gleam. Played out to its sole spectators, the story is cloaked in supple merlot leather, like a faded fairytale.
Only walker could make innocence so haunting; only Mulberry could dress the tone.
Happy Birthday Hugo
Counting twenty years of avant-garde design this summer is the German diffusion line, HUGO. Born in 1993 to the Hugo Boss group, HUGO has come into its own as a pioneer of trends, looked to for trailblazing design in finely focussed cuts.
To mark the occasion, HUGO is hosting a summer-long celebration at the Saatchi Gallery in London, in the form of its exhibition, Red Never Follows. From July 21st to September 1st, twenty inspiring creators and inventors will present their artworks under the exhibition. From interactive multimedia installations to unflinching street art, this diverse showcase of creativity will mark two decades of innovation by HUGO.
Also honoring the anniversary is the launch of an exclusive retrospective collection of 20 signature HUGO designs. Pieces set to feature in the capsule line include the red woman suit, a bicolor man shirt and limited edition ‘90s style headphones, and will be premiered at Galeries Lafayette in Paris from September 2nd, before going live online and in the Champs-Elysées flagship store.
Jil Sander Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
How does Jil Sander manage to fill a blank page without actually penning any ink? Clinical whites were taken to their logical conclusion with the very first look – white coat and all. Save the neon-light glow of luminous piping – a scant sight stolen from a chance flash of lining – whistle clean sterility dictates. The signature Sander classic – the starched white shirt – is a consistent throughout, seeing character alternate schizophrenically between sportswear and futurism.
Lacquered swing coats shine with a bleachy gleam, despite orange and pink flirting luridly against the chaste wishes of white. Longline shorts peep from knitwear, making a play for tailoring, while parachute-style silks take windbreaker sillhouettes, tapered in to an elasticated waist. Tarnished plaids sully a pristine reputation with dirty grays, and scribbled prints downright deface. Silhouette, nonetheless, retains its streamlined shape til the bitter end, with a form that cages and contains graphic's wayward spirit.
Damir Doma Resort 2014
Damir Doma is known not for flouncy detail, but more his rather austere sense of line. Femininity and severity are tricky things to balance, so Doma may have struck gold with his working forumula.
Welcomed as the womenswear guest of Pitti W 12, the Giardino Corsini al Prato in Florence set the backdrop for Doma's eloquent 2014 Resort show. A tone resonant in the very first look, an elongated shift dress envelopes the body with the characteristics of paper. Blocked color on crepe silk takes the theme further, in asymmetric cuts that just miss the fold line. Concealed fastenings allow the fantasy to live on, as paper bag waists and unblemished edges create the incredibly believable impression of origami construction, while cold-shoulder cutouts tear in just the right places.
A restrained colour pallette pulls focus to detail. The royal purple and jewelled fucshia tones reign over swathes of monochrome check, but the steadfast sovereign is, by far, page-white, for its impeccable execution of crisp, statched folds.
London Collections: Men - Day 2
Driving round two of London Collections: Men was a sherbert-sweet sense of summer. Doused in pastels, Richard James gave us soft and simple tailoring, with stand-out espidrilles the only statement piece against a refreshed line of loyal staples.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone, too, presented pared-down pieces, as anoraks and fishing hats echoed the loutish slur of the nineties britpop scene. Katie Eary's graduated prints bought hues to daze in eye-sore orange and fuchsia pink, deep from which jungle skins and flocked flamingos swarm to hypnotise.
Graphic print reigned supreme at Christopher Kane and Sibling, with co-ordinated two pieces obeying a form that is strictly streamlined. Kane's electrifying palette and symmetrical motifs reflected the digital age, whereas Sibling's mix of sportswear and gridlock knits in early nineties lilacs stirred a soup of all-American references, when cliques collided and shared wardrobes. KTZ usurped Arabian silhouettes with a collage of dizzying print; ying and yang motifs, candy stripes and map prints cloaked bodies in draping lengths, with the menace of slogans reading “Poison” and “Terror” made all the more tangible by studded spike accessories.
True to form, Alexander McQueen delivered classical ceremony with typically macarbre undertones, as worn scalloped lace and frayed jaquard were a nod to lost nobility. J.W. Anderson, however, waved the flag for conceptual design. Bold, basic shapes were contorted and displaced, stomachs bared and shoulders constricted in an almost straight-jacket style – a shining example of London's progressive eye. It was Martine Rose, however, who hosted the show that was London incarnate: strewn about a showspace kitted out to enact an unkempt living room, sunblushed graphic tees and scuffed denim set the tone of the collection. Wigged male models lounged on upholstered sofas, flicking through tabloids in white wide-legged pants – not defined by subscription to gender, Rose's proved for a surreal show, to say the least. Only in London...
Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
From beneath the redundant railway arches of Kings Cross came a vision in white. All lace and pallid skin bought something of the modern day beau to London yesterday. At once sharply-suited and undone, stiffly starched collars poked their wings from wrinkled silk, as knuckle-grazing cuffs second-guessed the astute dressing of the dandy. Mary Janes, meanwhile, trod the industrial cobblestones with a distrinctly feminine authority, blurring the boundaries which fashion gender with Regency resonance.
Distressed knits layered shell-structured tees, webbing ivories into a monochrome scheme. Silhouette remained true to tradition, with only subtle shake-ups to conventional tailoring; casual pieces flirted with heritage, while sleeves were sheered to bare arms in a twist to challenge formality.
Embelishment, on the other hand, was an altogether modest affair, overruled by the mixing of minimalist pieces in a playful repertoire of lengths. Nonetheless, when print was on the cards, it truly made its presence known. Jacquard flocks and candy stripes were unabashedly busy, evoking layer upon layer of peeling wallpaper – only to be understated by Sarah Burton's stripped-down interpretations of the plain black suit.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2014
When women's creative director Julie de Libran personified the muse for the Louis Vuitton Cruise collection as “the effortlessly chic French woman”, it all fell into place.
For the directional aide of the lookbook, boxy shapes are color-blocked and ditsy florals layered, yet standalone pieces work for showboats and wallflowers alike . Breton stripes and two-piece pantsuits tell of a confidence to flirt with androgyny, while soft-sheen fabrics take drop-waist sillhouettes to offset the balance back to that of an understated sense of femininity. Floor-skimming hems scream 'bohemian nonchalance', while fluid lines draw the eye along the outskirts of chic, simple tailoring – only to be jarred by the dense and oh-so-charming awkwardness of clunky wooden clogs.
Whether in jacquard or silk, denim or bouclé, de Libran takes a tour of France through a textured palette that is both fresh and in-keeping with Marc Jacob's boudoir-laced Fall runway designs. French or otherwise, the Cruise collection is, indeed, “effortlessly chic”.
Replay Spring/Summer 2014
More than a splash of beach style made its way onto the Replay's Spring/Summer catwalk for the 2014 season. In fact, the Urban Surf collection was awash with sun and surf pop – a perfect postcard of the Hawaiian shores.
The free-spirit of the surfer shines in the design of the Replay Blue Jeans line, whose bleached tones speak of saltwater-drenched and sun-dried carelessness. Loose fit and unfinished edges render Men's and Women's styles characteristically cool, as rolled-up cuffs reveal ankles and attitude. Laserblast denim lies at the heart of the hippie vibe. Eco-friendly and low impact, skinny, boyfit, biker and carrot cuts are a reaction to responsible youth culture. Nostalgic femininity is plucked straight from Venice Beach, when broderie anglaise confronts cold-dyed leather. Meanwhile, fringed T-shirts and are taken from day to night, when cargo jackets are swapped for stone studs and sequins. Menswear, too, is distinctly understated. Oversized T-shirts are aged by texture, as crinkled fabrics appear blushed by the sun, while biker sleeves reinterpret the nylon bomber.
Vibrant hues make waves when palm-print takes the form of macro print and batik. Neoprene mini dresses and mesh knits steal structure from scuba, applying exposed zips and stitching as a playful final point of reference.
Jason Wu for Hugo Boss Womenswear
Jason Wu is to take up a newly established position at Hugo Boss, as Artistic Director of Womenswear. The role will see the designer assume the creative direction for all product and image aspects of womens' ready-to-Wear and accessories by Hugo Boss. While he continues to design for his own line, Wu will open a design studio in New York, while taking charge of his team at the Hugo Boss headquaters in Metzingen, Germany.
His creations will make their debut during the city's Pre-Fall 2014 season, with his first runway show taking place during Fashion Week in February. Choicely working with a designer known for such a distinctly feminine aesthetic, the label described the appointment of Wu as a chance to shift focus to the female side of the brand. Speaking on his new role, the designer expressed admiration for the label's remarkable tailoring, adding, “I plan to develop a strong, feminine womenswear collection that reciprocates the brand’s authority in menswear”.
Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 Campaign
The sun may be beaming on your back, but just one glimpse at the steely sobriety of the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 campaign is enough to give you chills. Captured by the painterly eyes of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, an inky color palette and soft elusive lines lend an impressionistic quality to the photos. As the twenties theme subtly sings, angular form appears to almost dance, with a gently-focussed lens illustrating a dreamy sense of movement. Starring Mariacarla Boscono and Florian Van Bael, the campaign is to debut worldwide later this month.
Dior's Secret Garden 2
Step into a world of secrecy and splendour. To sequel the success of their Secret Garden short film last Fall, Dior are bringing their Fall/Winter collection to life through another directed piece. Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have been called upon to direct the Secret Garden 2- Versailles. Starring Daria Strokous as Marie Antoinette, the Château de Versailles provides the backdrop to an enchanting tale, dreamt upon the painting by Edouard Manet, Le déjeuner sur l'Herbe. Launching live online in June, prepare to explore a realm abound with poetry and colour, as flower-women bloom from its mysterious grounds. Fantasy thrives in the most unexpected of places, as luxury gives way to dark imagination - illustrious of the season's peek-a-boo cuts to established sillhouettes.
G-Star flagship store Berlin
With a versatile event comprised of music, fashion and art, denim brand G-Star opened its new flagship store on Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Actor Sönke Möhring of 'Inglorious Basterds' fame and presenter Rabea Schif activated the 'champagne crusher' to official unveil the store and open the doors to the RAW art series, a design experiment , which explores the limitless possibilities of denim. The new location houses the entire men's and women's collection as well as accessories on 350 square meters.
G-Star RAW store
J.W. Anderson for Versus Versace
When it was announced some months back that Jonathan Anderson was invited by Donatella Versace to design a capsule collection for Versace, opinions were both in doubt and in awe. In some ways, the two aesthetics could not be further apart. Jonathan's brand J.W. Anderson is known for it's rigourous and boxy cuts and unisex approach. Versace obviously likes to keep its clothing as close to the body for it's sexually agressive and confident man and woman. But on another level, the brands have a similarity that can not be denied; J.W. Anderson is heavily influenced by the nineties-era and that period was, of course, Gianni Versace's initial heyday.
That tension is clearly visible in the collection presented wednesday in New York. Andersons personal influences were the austere and graphic pieces like cropped tops and skirts with high slits on both legs. J.W. Andersons latest menswear collection was all about ruffles, short hems and knee-high boots. That unisex-feeling returned in this Versus-collection as the clothes didn't change that much for him or her. The Versus-man is as confident in a croped and sliced top as his female counterpart. When the Versace-trademarkt made their appearance in the collection, it added extra depth to the collection with signature gold buttons, lace and safety-pins. The collection, reminiscent of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Versace himself, celebrated the nineties. But most of all, it was the result of an balanced joining of forces, in which both parties had an equal voice.
Stella McCartney joins Designer for Tomorrow
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf is proud to announce that Stella McCartney is the new patron for their annual talent award Designer for Tomorrow. Since its initiation in 2009, the fashion award is yearly given away during the Berlin Fashion Week, giving young talent the chance to be discovered and providing them with a creative platform.
With Marc Jacobs as the patron of the project for the last two years, Peek & Cloppenburg found a worthy successor in Stella McCartney. She will be part of the whole process of finding the next winner of the fashion design competition. The first step of the process will be reviewing every application sent in from all over Europe and for McCartney to select her favourite ten designers. Along with an expert jury board, she will view the presentation of the finalists' collections in Berlin in May 2013. Ultimately then they will decide on a winner, who will present his collection at the Berlin Fashion Week and receive the fashion award's grant.
Jimmy Choo at London Collections: Men
It's a first for Jimmy Choo! In previous years the fashion brand always presented their menswear collection in Milan, but in June 2013 the men's collection will make its debut in London for the first time.
The Spring/Summer collection 2014 will surely be a great addition to the third installment of the London Collections: Men, which will take place from the 16th til the 18th of June.
To fully win over the hearts of the fashionable Londoners, Jimmy Choo will also be opening a flagship store in Dover Street in the beginning of May.
Window Displays at Lanvin Paris
Inspired by the prints of Alber Elbaz’ Lanvin Winter/Fall 2013-14 collection, the window displays at the Lanvin Paris store are currently filled with hundreds of butterflies. Swarms of fluttering creatures are suspended in mid-air surrounding the still mannequins, they seem to defy gravity.
The shapes of the butterflies give a playful notion and their elegant black colour is a contrast to the white skin of the mannequins as well as the Parisian creme stone walls found at 22 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Flying through doorways, out of fireplaces and old-fashioned record-players the butterflies are attracted to Lanvin garments like bees are attracted to honey. The mannequins seem surprised by the sudden appearance of the butterflies, there’s nothing left to do but to hold on to those gorgeous Lanvin handbags and be careful not to take a tumble in those wonderful heels.
The Surf Shack by Tommy Hilfiger
When surf culture emerged in America in the 60s, it was about much more than just the sport. It created a new direction in music and fashion - in fact, a whole new lifestyle still embraced by surfers around the world today. That surf culture inspired Tommy Hilfiger to create Surf Shack, a limited-edition capsule collection to accompany his spring/summer 2013 collection.
Tommy Hilfiger normally takes a fresh and young approach to classic American apparel. Surf Shack manages to create a crossover between preppy and laid back, resulting in surf sophistication. The 12 womenswear and 16 menswear pieces are made of summery fabrics like chambray and feature bold prints and neon colors. The beach apparel, swimwear, footwear, sunglasses, watches and bags are ideal from sunrise to sunset on a hot summer's day.
Tommy Hilfiger has also collaborated with the Art Production Fund again to invite five contemporary artists to design five unique surfboards. They will be available in selected Tommy Hilfiger stores from April 15, once the in-store installations of sandy beaches are complete.
Human Made X Coca-Cola
The Japanese designer NIGO® launched his new capsule collection inspired by vintage Coca-Cola. The capsule collection is released under his newest label’s name – Human Made. The new line of menswear takes its inspiration from iconic work wear from the 20th century. A wide grey sweater with the old-fashioned Coco-Cola logo in a blazing red, a cap with stripes and simple white T-Shirts with prints of the coke bottles remind of the days, when Coca-Cola was brand new and everybody raved about that new fizzy drink.
Fun fact behind the collection: The designer owns a personal collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia including a red retro leather jacket from his high school days. He was also the Japan Coca-Cola yo-yo champion back in the 80s and awaited this collection for a long time.
The capsule collection is a collaboration with one of Japan’s fanciest boutiques, Beams. The collection is solely available at Beams surrounded by fitting decor like a neon light script of the Coca-Cola logo and a red vintage metal box filled with the classic coke glass bottles.
The new Crash by Chanel
by Rachel Marie Walsh
No, this timepiece isn’t a cut-out from Dali’s The Persistence of Memory. This is Cartier’s re-edition of the 'Crash' watch, a design originally produced for the brand’s UK boutiques in 1967. Cartier London was an independent company at the time and the melted-looking bezel is as reminiscent of Carnaby Street hipsters as it is surrealist art. In fact, the design was inspired by the broken watch of a Cartier London customer who’d been in a car accident. In the heat of the wreckage, his oval-shaped Cartier Bagnoire Alongée had stretched and warped, yet managed to remain elegant.
Company head Jean-Jacques Cartier was so intrigued by this “survivor” that he put it into production. Cartier liked the irreverence of the shape, especially contrasted against the technical perfection and precise construction of what lay beneath. Over the years, Crash watches from the 60s and 70 - all signed “London” unlike the signature "Paris" for modern watches - have increased significantly in value. One can see the appeal: something that is both luxurious yet which has endured the extreme.
This season, the Crash is available as a ladies dress watch in four models, each with bracelets comprised of drops of white or pink gold and gem-set bezels. One particularly exquisite style has a bracelet covered with brilliant-cut diamonds. In reference to the year it was created, only 267 Crash watches have been produced. An underground classic for true connoisseurs of Cartier.
Dior at Harrods
Inspired by Christian Dior’s love for the British culture, the luxury fashion house just launched their collaboration with Harrods, one of the most renowned British department stores. The windows in Brompton Road display an exclusive collection of accessories, which bring French elegance and British charm together. The traditional Dior colours of white and grey are combined with red leather and tartan pattern for this special occasion. Apart from garments, handbags – including new designs of the ‘Lady Dior’ bag – and jewellery, the range of items also includes little snowglobes displaying the ‘New Look’ and teddy bears with the Dior logo.
The histories of Dior and Harrods are already interlinked. In 1954, Monsieur Dior not only attended a Dior fashion at Harrods, but also inaugurated the Harrods Fashion Theatre. To celebrate this occasion, every customer who visits the legendary department store until April 14th will be able to the enjoy a unique Dior experience. The fourth floor is transformed into a Dior wonderland, where the customers will be reminded of the all-time greatest designs of Dior with the essence of J’Adore wafting through the air. The Café Dior in style of Dior’s favourite 18th century decor caters for some delicious cupcakes and lobster club sandwich to enjoy during well-deserved shopping breaks.
Don’t miss out on your chance to visit the special Dior experience at Harrods! It is located at 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London.
Gucci Chime For Change
Chime for education. Chime for health. Chime for justice. To empower women all around the world and to strengthen women’s right is the aim of Gucci's new project Chime For Change. The campaign was just launched at the TED 2013 and its spokeswomen are Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini, singer Beyoncé Knowles-Carter and actress Salma Hayek Pinault.
To bring together and unite voices defending girls and women from all over the world is the way how to achieve change. Via social media platforms such as Twitter or Facebook everyone’s voice can be heard. “There is no innocent bystander in the information age,“ says Salma Hayek Pinault at the TEDxWomen Luncheon. Social media offers the opportunity for anybody to become active and push positive social change forward.
While in many countries women still struggle for basic human rights,
Chime For Change is not only raising awareness about said topic, but also cooperates with the social change makers of Catapult. Catapult is a crowdfunding platform to better and further the living conditions of girls and women, representing over 50 organisations in 38 countries. It will link Chime For Change members to charity projects they can participate in and donate to.
The Nigerian women's rights activist Hafsat Abiola left the women at the luncheon with a hopeful and motivating statement: “Let us stand in solidarity with each other in our common struggle for a better world and step by step, not over night, but step by step we will change the way that the world sees women and treats women.“
Get involved and encourage change on the official website of Chime For Change:
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Inspired by the simplicity of beauty that was the key to the portraiture of the 17th century, the designers of Valentino created a one of a kind Fall/Winter collection for the cold days of 2013-14. Showing off long braids accessorized with simple black headbands, all models were styled the same, which brought out their individual beauty even more. Their pure porcelain skin and puppet like faces complemented the stunning range of garments.
The collection’s most essential fabric was lace. All kinds of delicate lace were used for floor length dresses, bibs, collars, applications and cuffs, adding subtle details to each design. One of the most prominent designs was a dress with long sleeves and a slightly flared skirt ending above the knee. Their either black, red or blue fabrics were the perfect contrast to the creme coloured lace bibs.
All in all the whole collection was all about skirts and dresses and rarely featured any trousers. Occasionally there were a few pleats as well as colourful dresses featuring scalloped hems and see-through fabric. Use of red and white fur, the later with black spots, reminded of royal ermine coats, while leather gave an edge to the sweet looking dresses. Capes with hoods and coats with clear cuts looked like they were from an enchanted tale. The enchanted feel of the collection was underlined by flowery patterns and glittering sequins. Yet again it was another excellent Valentino collection.
Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection pairs classic fits with playful details and from girly dresses with pockets to elegant gowns to wear on a night out, it has it all. While the collection started off with white garments making the models look like youthful ice princesses, the final dresses out of flowy fabrics had a more grown up feel to them.
A lot of pleats were seen throughout the whole collection. Whether on sleeveless shirt dresses, on jackets or blouses, it was all in the details. Among the variety of coats the highlight was without doubt the final piece – a wide furry parka in white, grey and black with a big hood, paired with a dress featuring an graphic black and white print of large tulips. The petals and stalks remind of spring time and bring back the memories of sunshine to the winter days.
Black, snow white and icy grey with a touch of a silverish shine were the neutral colours of the collection, while a warm brown as well as splashes of cornflower blue, bright pink and fiery red added more colour. Quilted leather jackets, furry collars, a button through skirt with fringes ending just above the knee as well as fringy hemlines on jackets and coats were essential to the collection.
Camper Spring/Summer 2013
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Nothing was what it seemed on Bernhard Wilhelm’s Spring/Summer catwalk, what with the crazily-patterned grunge-chic and models in futuristic afros and foil masks. Then again, one of the designer’s long-term mantras is “chaos is beautiful.”
The shoes were a perfect match, in a blindingly clashing kind of way. Wilhelm's seasonal collaboration with Camper combines wild animal prints with chunky, unexpected soles and natural materials like cork. Conformity and provocation co-exist with a humorous disdain for the plain, as he pushes the boundaries of conventional footwear to create shocking shapes.
Since Wilhelm set up his brand (together with Jutta Kraus) in 1999, the Ulm, Germany-born designer has refused to be swayed by success. He continues to create an imaginative and wonderfully lunatic world playfully projected onto the Spanish brand’s footwear.
The stand-out shoes for women were zebra-print sandals with wildly outsized soles. With ankle-high upper and thong construction, these shoes are both a sandal and a boot, available as a flat or with the on-trend cylindrical heel. Both are lined with leather and rubber. The flagship sneaker for men and women is reinvented with neon camouflage or zebra and Dalmatian-print in black and white monochrome. The soles are boosted with sculpted, zigzag rubber inserts in contrasting colors. All are crazy-cool, just the way Campers should be.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14
Images of a forest were the backdrop for the Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show, which showed black silhouettes of bald trees and soft light that reminded of a sunrise on a crisp morning in fall. Tall trees towered around the audience's seats and displayed the romantic beauty of nature.
The garments were a symbol for romanticisim stripped down to the very bare essentials. The varied usage of fur was one of the collection's key elements. It was fur of all colours and of all kinds – shiny, fluffy, astrakhan. Furry stoles accompanied bandeau tops and wide pants, fur collars added a finishing touch to coats and even gloves as well as boots' main material was fur. Oversized coats and blazers accentuated clear cuts with diagonal zippers as details. Skirts of dresses were slashed, giving away a view on delicate underlying mesh fabrics. Leather jackets and dresses added a feel of casual coolness, while the romantic theme of nature returned in the collection's prints of trees and abstract flower patterns.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
With their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Iceberg decided to take a trip to the past. The first look of the runway show included a knitted sweater that re-invented the style of the one that was designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in 1983. However, the creme coloured wool and crisscrossed black leather stripes look more contemporary than ever.
The reoccuring pattern of the whole collection was that of stripes – covering sleeves of sweaters, woven into jumpers wool, spreading diagonally across knee-length pencil skirts. Some pullovers were in a patchwork style mixing various stripey patterns of different colours with leather and furry details. Returning to high quality knitwear from jumpers over fitted cardigans to slouchy knit dresses, a variety of wool was used. While the knitwear featured wide sleeves and soft shapes, the collection also included jackets and blazers with sharp tailoring. Throughout the whole collection the designs had a focus on strong shoulders.
Leather cigarette pants with a slim fit in a bold fuchsia displayed a use of bright colours. Azure blue and lemon yellow were other main colours, beside black and white. The final looks of the collection turned the neat stripes into colourful twirls adorned with numerous sequins. All in all the collection had just the right amount of seriousness, but also a playful touch.
Fire Etchings by Karl Lagerfeld
From oil painings to contemporary photography the portait is one particular form of art that artists have been fascinated with ever since. None other than Karl Lagerfeld has created one of the most recent responses to what contemporary portraiture could look like.
In his exhibition “Karl Lagerfeld: Fire Etchings“ at the Galerie Gmurzynska in St. Moritz, the fashion designer and photographer dicovers a whole new medium for portraiture by using backlit glass and etching images into its surface with fire.
The subjects of the glowing blue, yellow and white images are rapper Theophilus London as well as the models Freja Beha Erichsen and Aymeline Valade – Lagerfeld’s current muses. The exhibition is on display at the Galerie Gmurzynska until the 23rd of March and viewable seven days a week from 10-19 hrs. The gallery is located at Via Serlas 22, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland.
Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2013-14
The key to Tommy Hilfiger's new Fall/Winter collection was to apply tailored cuts of menswear designs to a womenswear collection. The result is a range of sharp and sophisticated garments, that are wearable every day of the week. It was Hilfiger's goal to bring the 60s and 70s back, but in a modern way.
Tailored shorts and mini skirts serve as bottoms, while jumpers with V-necks and buttoned up blouses are the tops. The patterns of the collection include all kinds of checks – from Prince of Wales plaids to black-white-red houndstooth fabrics. But instead of keeping it simple, the different patterns are combined in each garment. Black and white checks meet deep red plaids, however in a way that it doesn't confuse the eye. The most used colours are dark red, camel, creme, navy and black.
The collection is all about outerwear and layering. Jackets and coats with leather or shearling trims for snowy days are versatile and easily combined with any other piece to be worn beneath. Chic shoulder bags with golden chains as well as high boots finish off the look.
The Unfolder 7 by Alexandre Vauthier
This is it. The Unfolder 7. The first bag ever to be designed by Alexandre Vauthier. While the fashion brand marks its fourth year in existence, this is the first accessory by the French designer. It's the cherry on top accompanying the garments of the current collection.
The square and slim structure of the bag looks classic, yet modern. The same effect is achieved by its materials of lambskin and crocodile leather as well as the golden metal chain and details. The versatile bag can be worn as a clutch or across the shoulder, just as one pleases. So it's an ideal companion for a night out, but just as much for a relaxed day in town.
Happy Birthday, Dior!
It's a birthday to celebrate! 66 years ago on a snowy day in Paris the very first collection of Dior Haute Couture was revealed. The 12th of February 1947 became a date that marks a pivotal day in fashion history.
To the astonishment of the fashion show's audience feminine dresses and the typical defined high waist showed of the female body. No longer were those models hiding in their bodies in unflattering clothes of the war-time. Femininity made a comeback and the Parisians audience as well as women and men all around the world were admiring the Dior Haute Couture collection.
On the same day a second new thing was introduced to the world: Dior's first ever perfume. The smell of Miss Dior was everywhere in the rooms of Avenue Montaigne No. 30, where the fashion show was taking place hinting that the new look of a woman was not only about what she wore, but about her overall presence.
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013-14 Preview
While it’s not even summer yet, Alexander McQueen is already realeasing a much sought after preview of their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Once again Sarah Burton has created a gorgeous collection, which will surely be a highlight of next winter’s fashion shows.
No matter if the look is elegant or playful, the cuts of the stunning floor length dresses or short dresses with skater skirts are to rave about. Crochet details, golden embellishments around necklines and delicate frills are only the cherry on top. As outerwear long white coats with furry details around the neck and sleeves as well as black leather coats with laser cut outs keep the wearer warm on snowy days. Apart from black, grey and white, frequently used colours of the collection are luscious reds and blues.
They contrast the pale skin of the model, who looks as fair as Snow White from a fairy tale book. It’s as if the whole collection is telling a story. Puffy white sleeves remind of tops worn during the reign of King Herny and his numerous wives. Others garments however remind of religious and priestly robes. The black leather boots can be seen in either an ankle or overknee version with white pleats peaking out. They remind a lot of musketeer boots with a broad strap and a great golden buckle. But even if some of the garments look otherworldly it never overshadows how beautiful they are.
Marc Jacobs becomes Creative Director of Coca Cola Light
It’s time to celebrate! Marc Jacobs is the new Creative Director of Coca Cola Light in 2013. After 30 years of the invention of the low-calorie drink the genious fashion designer is taking the leads to bring the Coca Cola brand forward.
In the new amusing advertisement three girls stumble upon Marc Jacobs posing inside a photo booth with his ice cool Coke tin. He is taking the idea of the Coca Cola Light Man to the next level, taking off his shirt and baring it all. While the flirty tune of I just want to make love to you by Etta James is playing the girls can’t help but steal a glance at the photos the booth spits out. They gasp once they recognise Marc Jacobs: The surprise is out and he just casually announces that it’s time to celebrate his new position.
So raise your glasses (or Coke Light tins) and say cheers to a new Coco Cola era led by Marc Jacobs.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2013 campaign was recently revealed: It stars none other than Kate Moss, Westwood’s husband Andreas Kronthaler and Dame Vivienne Westwood herself with her signature fiery mane. German photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in the Viennese museum for historic art.
It features garments of the Gold Label as well as pieces from the menswear and accessories line. The backdrop of the ornate golden frames, religious and antique oil paintings contrasts the rebellious feel of the collection and the provocative attitude of the campaign’s protagonists.
Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 2013-14
Hats, jumpsuits with diagonal zippers, long light coats with slits in the back and cool biker jackets remind of the punk attitude of the musician Patti Smith. Designer Leyla Piedayesh was inspired by Smith when she created her new Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection.
However, the designer’s ideas are also strongly influenced by her Persian decent. Oriental and ethnical patterns are featured in many of the garments mixed with static geometric patterns.
In terms of shapes there’s a contrast between wide or long tops and extremely short bottoms. Big woolen jumpers are long enough to be worn as dresses, but are paired with very short skirts peeking out underneath. Any material from cashmere over mohair to angora is used for the thick knits and snoods. Other fabrics are different kinds of silk and leather. The range of colours includes black, grey, blue, red as well as a soft pink.
A.P.C. Berlin Store Opening
After expanding world-wide with stores in major cities such as Tokyo, New York City and Hong Kong A.P.C. is returning to Berlin to open yet another store in the German capital. It will be the second store in Berlin and the expenditure can be traced back to the designer's love of the vibrant city. Jean Touitou has even contemplated moving his studio and atelier from Paris to Berlin.
Touitou worked together with architect Laurent Deroo on the refurbishment of the shop in Fasanenstrasse 22. It will carry A.P.C.'s men and women line, jeans and accessories. The opening celebration is taking place on January 31st from 18.00 til 21.00 hrs.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
A domestic setting became the scenery of Prada's menswear Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. A furnished house with modern designs and pristine clean furniture by the designer team AMO was the setting. Cubic chairs and glass tables were decorated with lonely fruit bowls, electronic gadgets, plants and vases. The "ideal house".
Fittingly the collection seemed familiar and homely. Gingham shirts untucked under compfy, but high quality sweaters and ankle length trousers are the key pieces of the collection. Ruffled shirts are worn underneath short checked jackets and long coats with velvet collars. Shiny brown and black leather brogues with thick spiky soles add the final touch.
The boys with the fringe haircut and their big sunglasses as well as bright coloured leather jackets seem like they just time traveled in from the 70s. Casually they walk from one door frame to the next one, entering one room after another. Miuccia Prada returns to classicism and simplicity with her collection. Less is more it is.
Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2013-14
From casual outerwear like the green military parka or black leather jacket to smart coats the Balenciaga F/W 2013-14 proves to be versatile. The well-fitted camel jacket or the oversized grey cocoon coat are essential for this year's Balenciaga's menswear collection.
A varied mix of suits and wide pants makes the collection what it is. Graphic prints to fine stripes are covering the high quality fabrics, which vary from wool tweed to velvet. The versatility can not only be seen in style but also in colour: bright to navy blue, dark greens to khaki, different tones of camel, varied shades of grey and black combine well together. Defined cuts give the garments a clear shape and symmetrical buttons add a finishing touch.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Paris Fashion menswear week started last wednesday and one of the first houses to present their collection was Valentino, who moved the menswear from Italy to France. The Valentino man's new house is the prestigious Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, where the Valentino Haute Couture woman also lives. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are known for experimenting with material. In this collection, which was London-inspired, they found a way to heat-bond leather to other materials, a technique they picked up during their background in accessories. Broad bands of leather were applied to coats and capes in navy and black. An oversized pied-de-poule motif was printed with the same technique on a smaller version for a trench coat, being both graphic and subtle.
As much as Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo like to push things forward, their menswear never crosses the fine line into fashionable jibber-jabber. Capes, normally considered not the most wearable pieces for men, looked rather relevant. Sharp suits were spiced up with a scarf in cashmere and fur that are attachable to the button of a jacket, as a modern reference to the formal scarf worn with tuxedos. The notion of shadow has been a recurring theme in Valentino's vocabulary of today, and was noticeable in the combination of black and navy and the 'double revers', a darker patch of silk under the lapels. Recurring details like the camouflage, this time in black and grey, and studs, can not be considered as seasonal trends anymore but are part of Valentino's staples, as if it never was any other way.
Haute Couture influences always was an important theme for the designers but opposed to before, when the clothes moved away from the body, this season they were much tighter and therefore more sensual, molding around the body because of their knitted backs and use of soft leathers. Materials were mixed to ensure comfort with a leather shirt lined in cotton and a viscose sweater that was cashmere in the inside. The insides of clothing offer a complete new world for the wearer, with a simple mac with a down-jacket interior and a fur coat with a sporty lining.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013
John Varvatos is the go-to brand for Rock and Roll guys with sartorial wit. This fall the Varvatos-man was more of a dandy than ever with slim-cut clothes in dark hues. Subtle plaids were combined with cozy mohair sweaters and slick tailoring. Varvatos re-introduced flared trousers for men to give that seventies aura. This al ended in a finale of lucious velvet suits, ready to be worn for the 21th century dandy.
Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2016
Daring and self-confident is Louis Vuitton’s woman as appears in the Pre-Fall 2016 Travel campaign. Louis Vuitton launches the Capucines and the City Steamer handbags and gives the handbags’ trend for the fall. The City Steamer bags come in new colors like black and pink with Burgundy piping and Black and White with honey brown handle. Even though The Steamer was first created in 1901 and it was the first supple bag, today’s modern heroine loves it since it has become a true city bag. The second handbag model we saw in pre-fall 2016 collection of Louis Vuitton is the Capucines; red and black leather as well as pink crocodile leather are the colours and materials that the firm suggests for Capucines bags. The Capucine is a discreetly elegant new signature bag that incarnates the Maison and its know-how. Both handbag collections take pride of place in Louis Vuitton’s Travel campaign. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier, has captured the dynamic profile of today’s woman in the face of the actress and Louis Vuitton’s new muse Léa Seydoux. Louis Vuitton campaigns continue their architectural journey by setting this last campaign in the Ranch, a building designed by the Mexican architect Luis Barragan.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2016
Louis Vuitton' collection for Fall 2016 was all about reflection. Quite literally, if one references the voluptuous mirror installation the designs were shown in. On a more theoretic note, Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière also reflected on different facets of his employer as a brand and his own work as a designer. Starting off with silk print dresses that recall notorious scarf prints, the designer threw in a chunk of brand heritage. All the while, though, Ghesquière stayed focused on modern street fashion, slicing and assembling modern aspect in each garment. Shape wise, Fall/Winter Vuitton is all about the waist. Super-cropped, boxy jackets accentuate a remarkably slim waist, while printed sweaters and dresses imitate the shape through contrasting prints that resemble an optical illusion. Skirts, dresses and trousers end just above the ankle, giving way to laced combat boots that mark a harsh counterpart to the sometimes soft and light dresses. This more firm note is supported by dark lipstick used on all models, sometimes in combination with a rather strict hairstyle. Nevertheless, Ghesquière also leaves room for less harsh elements, such as batwing sleeves and a triple-print forming the penultimate look. With this collection, Louis Vuitton has perfectly applied he art of reflection: it has to cover multiple facets, for to be honest, the look in the mirror is never the same.
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2016 Eyewear Campaign
Cara Delevingne may have stopped walking the big runways, but she still has some of her modeling duties in mind – especially, if they involve her close friend Karl Lagerfeld. The British model stars in the new CHANEL eyewear campaign, which was teased by a flashing video released a few weeks ago. While the bespoke visualization presented a pair of unique CHANEL sunglasses adorned by a laser-cut quilt design, the campaign now shows a collection enhanced by more optics and sunglasses from the Plein and Bijou 2016 ranges. The Plein collection revisits models in a tie-dye optic, merging the colors from black to blue or white in the frame acetate. Bijou on the other hand focuses on a CHANEL code classic, the timeless camelia. Made from metal and enamel, it adorns the glasses in an abundance on their legs. Next to eyewear, the campaign also sees Delevingne sporting pieces from the CHANEL AIRLINES Ready-to-wear collection. A tweed cap and jacket and a grosgrain ribbon-bowed top complete her urban and contemporary CHANEL look, subtracting the need for a logo on the campaign pictures. Even if Miss Delevingne has abandoned the runways, we're still glad she makes time for her fashion friends – especially, if it's Karl Lagerfeld.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2016
Keeping it clean and simple, reducing and seizing the detail sometimes pays off best for a fashion brand. At least, it does for Hermès. For the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, their garments were strained through the sieve of overdoing, leaving an assembly of designs that convinces in its simplicity. This season, the Hermès woman is the goddess of clear lines, of understatement and coolness. She is oozing confidence, she doesn't need much and has everything at hand to walk you over in the blink of an eye. Wonder what her wardrobe actually looks like? If not designed with an atypical pattern, there are hardly ever more than two or three colors to one look. Hermès went for monochrome combinations in shimmering gold, classic black or seductive oxblood. For lighter days, one can opt for smooth greys, cream whites and beiges, sometimes set together like paint color samples in a catalogue. Art-like assembly is another motif at Hermès in general; the items seem to be pieced, either in cut or color, with unique precision and strategy. It is out of question that the French brand applied fine, high-quality tailoring – their customers would never dare brushing off quality. Sometimes it pays off to take the quiet road, indeed. Remember Hermès.
Dior Fall/Winter 2016
Dior's Fall/Winter 2016 presentation might be the last time it's appropriate to mention Raf Simon's departure. Yes, he is gone, and yes, everyone was both thrilled and excited to see what would come next for the traditional Parisian house. No need for discussion, cut to the chase: what was there? All-black-everything looks marked a dark and gloomy start to the presentation but were quickly followed by allover floral designs that were once again reminiscent of Simons' work. Other than that, Dior presented femininity, meaning tight waistlines and short skirts, flowing to the sides or sometimes stiffly sitting on the hips. Sharpness is the base to the collection's tailoring, which – and why wouldn't it - was as precise and detailed as ever. Asymmetry and V-Necks are Dior's thing this season and often incorporated together in the making of lascivious dresses or the final piece, an egg-shaped white coat, falling loosely over one shoulder in a relaxed attitude. In fact, this final look may stand for everything the future beholds for Dior: relaxation. Drop the shoulder, drop the fear. The future can be bright for Dior, and after Fall/Winter 16, we see no reason why it wouldn't turn out to be so. Good luck.
Attilo Giusti Leombruni Fall/Winter 2016/17, Maggie Gyllenhaal by Bryan Adams
For Italian shoe brand Attilio Giusti Leombruni, the recipe to a high-quality campaign is quite short. All it takes are three ingredients: a stunning actress as testimonial, a high-profile photographer and – of course – the perfect pair of shoes. For their new Fall/Winter 2016 visuals, the brand tapped actress Maggie Gyllenhaal to present the latest designs, shot by no other than ZOO's Bryan Adams. Black-and-white snaps see Gyllenhaal dressed in nothing but the footwear and a plain black sweater, adding to the minimalistic touch of this particular campaign. The two models presented, a mid-heeled bootie featuring an eclectic flower print and a pair of shiny, black over-knee boots also hint at the collection's diversity. With this campaign, AGL's Creative Director Vera Giusti is more than glad to reveal “a new image of the brand expressing elegance and refined luxury through the aesthetic sensibility of Bryan Adams and the intense femininity of Maggie Gyllenhaal“. We're glad that AGL's recipe to a good campaign is so short – as it is defnitely one to take note from. The campaign is a creation between AGL, Bryan Adams and ZOO Studio.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2016
It seems like after seasons of blazing colours, logo prints fast food and toy designs, Jeremy Scott has found another way to express himself. His latest Moschino Fall/Winter collection is no shy one, but definitely a retreat from the bold and buzzing statements made in the last seasons. This collections is more of an outlook back on Pop culture: it's a little Madonna, in the 80s, a little of the 2000s, a bit of Kate-Moss-street style from 2010. That speaks for the first half of the collection, at least. After half of the looks have vanished from the runway, eccentric Scott is back on track. Burning ball gowns alluding to the 15th century find their climax in a design that sports a larger-than-life chandelier that surprisingly is not the show finale. That, in fact, is maybe more Scott himself, as he struts down the runway trough the gold-framed show scenery. One thing's for sure: with Moschino, boredom is eradicated from the dictionary. He is the one to open doors to his own underground club, where Madonna, Kate Moss and all the other faces party until dawn. Or until their dresses burn. That is, if they haven't before.
Costume National Fall/Winter 2016
Cool, cooler, Costume National. With the latest Fall/Winter collection, the label presented designs that spread the perfect interaction of casualty and precise tailoring. Effortlessly cool looks dominated the runway at Milan Fashion Week, formed by loose silhouettes and descending pleats and ruffles. The go-to item this season is the coat, and at Costume National, it comes in various shapes and styles. Whether it’s the short-and-slouchy version, the flower-embellished overcoat or the green trench: with Costume National’s Fall/Winter range, you’re covered on the coat side. Below the outerwear, ladies can sport oversize blouses combined with tailored blazers and pleated knee-high boots. Look for something more fancy? Go for the all-red velvet ensemble or the full-on print combination. You don’t need to worry, anyway. With Costume National, you’re cool; you’re dressed for success. Always.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos
JOSEPH F/W 16/17
For season Fall/Winter 16/17, JOSEPH went in for the big game. Big hair, big silhouette, accumulated in a look that is as eclectic as a freely assembled art exhibition. Freedom, in both the inspirational and creative way, is a base to the latest designs. Motifs incorporating the nostalgic idea of freedom, such as a hand, an eye and a bird, are knitted into sweaters. This season for JOSEPH means badge, patch and collect: applications are randomly sewn onto the pieces, bringing to life the unique personality that is envisioned by this collection. JOSEPH wants to highlight an anti-conformist look that each wearer can assemble in a puzzle manner. Therefore, leather corsets are fastened over shearling jackets, British jacquards are cut on the reverse to expose floating thread and trousers are laced up, buttons intentionally mismatched. This season, JOSEPH went in for the big game, and whatever you make out of it for yourself: the big entrance is all yours.
Calvin Klein Fall 2016
While in recent days, Calvin Klein’s strategy revolved strongly around their celebrity-studded “mycalvins” campaign, at their NYFW fashion show, it was back to business instead of bras. On the runway, creative director Francisco Costa presented a mixture of sleek, precise looks and loose silhouettes. The classic suit for the Calvin Klein lady is reinvented through the ever-present crossover with menswear influences. Nevertheless, Costa puts emphasis on urban eroticism in form of light and sultry shift dresses with deep v-necks and unraveled hems. Besides that, proportions undergo distortion, with broad shoulder cuts contrasting slim waists. Next to its urban sexiness, this collection has seriousness to it, with dark tones leading the color palette and faux fur collars, lynx and skunk prints adding a grown-up feel. In the eyes of Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein accumulates both luxury and wilderness, and they certainly melt together in inserted stones and geodes, adding an unexpected twist to numerous dresses. Naturally, famous faces lined the front row at this presentation, but with a collection this convincing, the center of attention is nothing but the dress.
Replay Replica 1972 Scatto Collection
With their new shoe collection “Replica 1972 Scatto”, Replay is quite literally kicking it back. The label rediscovered the 1972 soccer shoe “Scatto” and chose to bring it back to 2016. Thus, Replay’s design team started to fuse the spirit of a handmade 70s piece of footwear with contemporary sneaker designs. The result is a collection consisting of four themes, two of them for men only, with various approaches to a hand-made classic. Replay restyled the “Scatto” with an eclectic range of materials. Ranging from suede leather in the eponymous line to lycra geo patterns featured on the heel in “Lycra 3D”, they make the collection go from sporty to stylish. We're glad Replay took on that workshop.
Tommy Hilfiger RTW Fall 2016
In Fall 2016, Tommy Hilfiger has the sails set. His latest collection, presented in an extravagant set at New York Fashion week, sets off to the sea with maritime inspirations in all their nautical beauty. Now, it would be too easy to just restyle sailor archives to appropriate their look for 2016. Hilfiger on the contrary made his nautical references visible, but still wearable on dry land. Stripes pop up on various garments and materials, from shiny tops to floating dresses, sometimes presented in the traditional sailor manner, sometimes only hinted with a few stripes at the bottom. Classic navy embellishments also made the cut and can be found on coats, blazers and even sheer dresses. For those who want to experience the ride on the sea in a more graphic way, the designer created repetitive patterns for all kinds of garments, showing small drawings of boats, anchors, dancing sailor, wales and more. On the runway, new brand ambassador Gigi Hadid, who opened the show in a shifty beige dress and closed it as the gold-glittering sea travel princess, fronted the show. Full speed ahead!
Capital Ride: Berlinale 2016
Ladies and gentlemen, jump on the wagon; it’s time to set off for Berlinale! From February 11, in a spread of 10 days, the German capital will once again be home to the finest in moving images. From international blockbusters to independent movies, the international film festival offers everything you’d want to watch. In fact, the programme is that various that even native Berliner’s will find their head in a spin. Thus, jump on ZOO’s film ride now and catch up with what is not to miss at this year’s Berlinale:
Chi-Raq © Parrish Lewis
Stop 1: Chi-Raq “Chi-Raq” is a modern take on Aristophanes’ play “Lysistrata” and stars a variety of high-profile celebrities such as Mariah Carey’s ex-husband Nick Cannon, Angela Bassett, Jennifer Hudson and Samuel L. Jackson. The plot: in violence-driven Chicago, a female movement aims to shut down outbursts through a sex-strike. On display i.e. at the Berlinale Palast, Tue. 16.02., 10 PM
Hail, Caesar! © Universal Pictures
Stop 2: Hail, Caesar! Next stop: Rome! Well, in mind. More like Hollywood. With “Hail, Caesar!”, cult-directors Jonathan & Ethan Coen peek behind the coulisses of 1950s Hollywood. George Clooney mimes the kidnapped Caesar-actor while Josh Brolin is the studio-boss that strives to keep everything under control. Need we say more? On display i.e. at the Friedrichstadt-Palast, Thur. 11.02., 8.30 PM
Midnight Special © Ben Rollstein/Warner Bros. Entertainment/Ratpac-Dune LLC.
Stop 3: Midnight Special Next up on the film ride is a movie that accumulates everything: father-and-son road trip, the exploration of sect-culture, religion and politics in one – not to forget the subcultures that come with the American province. “Midnight Special” stars former ZOO-coverstar Michael Shannon, Kirsten Dunst and Joel Edgerton. On display i.e. at Haus der Berliner Festspiele, Sat. 13.02., 11 AM.
Maggie's Plan © John Pack / Hall Monitor, Inc.
Stop 4: Maggie’s Plan As part of their Panorama programme, the Berlinale presents a movie about 30-year old Maggie, who after invitro fertilization meets the love of her life. Naturally, the patchwork family life doesn’t work as it’s supposed to do. Starring Greta Gerwig, Ethan Hawke and Julianne Moore. On display i.e. at Zoo Palast 1, Sun., 21.02., 9.30 PM.
Stop 5: Goat How is extreme masculinity built these days? Andrew Neels’ “Goat” explores the violent side. 19-year old Brad does not only experience violence after a robbery, but also when entering a student fraternity at university. Starring James Franco, Nick Jonas and Ben Schnetzer. On display i.e. at CinemaxX7, Fri. 12.02., 10 AM.
Final Stop: Culinary Cinema & Berlinale Goes Kiez Next to all artistic endeavors, the final stop on this film ride focuses on the Berlinale special projects. One of them is the culinary cinema, showcasing 11 film features about the relation between food, culture and politics. Additionally, since 2010, the Berlinale hosts the “Berlinale Goes Kiez” programme, which moves the flying red carpet to small cinemas around Berlin on seven evenings, each one having a renowned personality as its patron.
434 films, 10 days and numerous red carpets filled with celebrities – it is impossible to swish through the Berlinale in just one ride. Consider this festival a hop-on, hop-off travel. You can’t fathom everything. Even if you just get a slight idea of it – we’re sure it will strike you just as much. Everyone get off, please!
Dior Homme's “Stranger In A Room” SS16
In a world where voyeurism is ever-present in many ways, Dior Homme managed to turn secret spying into something intriguing and artistically beautiful. For their new SS16 campaign “Stranger In A Room”, longtime-collaborator and photographer Willy Vanderperre followed four distinctive famous faces around – as the title suggests - a room. Viewers watch actor Alain-Fabien Delon, The xx member Oliver Sims, artist Rinus van de Velde and model Victor Nylander act as different versions of themselves while participating in seemingly everyday actions. In doing so, they are set to embody both the current spirit of the Dior Homme brand and their own charismatic and individual style. “Each young man is respected for who he is as a person and in what they do; all of them have talents you would want to possess”, photographer Vanderperre commented on the testimonial selection. He developed the narrative for Stranger In A Room with Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche. The title was chosen from the eponymous song by Oliver Sims’ The xx bandmate Jamie xx. And as the song, the short movie has something magnetic to it. Whether it is the gripping, charismatic actors or the delicate cinematography – that kind of voyeurism we'd like to indulge in even more.
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s F/W 16 “Hilfiger Edition”
If you’re a very classic brand, the ability to reinvent yourself over and over is key. Luckily, reinvention is the sub line in pretty much everything that Tommy Hilfiger does. It thus comes as no surprise that for his latest F/W 16 Menswear collection, titled “Hilfiger Edition”, the designer again tackled both heritage and haute style. At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Hilfiger presented a collective of indispensable menswear classics that once more embody the brand DNA. Covetable coats and thickly cabled fishermen sweaters make for warming outerwear, whereas slouchy trousers and selvedge denim create a relaxed look that is supported by the easy silhouette. Another part of Hilfiger’s reinvention is also taking the promotion of this collection to the next level. Managed by instagram curator Jordan Watson, Hilfiger collaborated with fine artist Austyn Weiner. Using her explosive color palette, she reimagined three original works that feature the Hilfiger Edition collection. Tommy Hilfiger always makes an effort to reinvent – and the victory is his.
Santoni's "My Santoni Colours"
Sure thing, we all have our personal style, but what if we could express it even more through our footwear? While the personalisation of sneakers may seem a bit outdated, such a service hardly ever has been seen in the luxury shoe segment. Italian shoe brand Santoni jumped at the opportunity and now offers their digital clientele the “My Santoni Colours” service. The customisation technique is based around the brand's beloved “Carter” model with its unique buckle and handmade production. Customers will have the chance to personalise their footwear choosing from a range of 16 colors with 500 possible combinations (you do the math!). If that is not enough, the owner's initials can be carved into the sole of the shoe as well. Talk about hidden secrets! Once the choice has been made in 3 easy steps, the shoe is ready to order and delivered within four weeks. Now, there is only one step to overcome: telling all your friends that this model is not available on the high street.
ETRO's Circle Of Poets
A poet by no means always has to be a lyricist. In a way, every form of art can depicted as poetry. Italian fashion label ETRO has therefore introduced their new project “The Circle Of Poets”, which sees artists from painters to filmmakers unite for a unique artistic exchange. As ETRO itself defines art as the very heart of the brand, it is with no surprise that the project includes an exhibition space for artists on the ETRO website. Although there is a selected circle of eleven elite “poets”, this art space is not an exclusive area for them. With the call-to-action “Are You A Poet?”, ETRO offers artists from around the world the chance to feature their works in an exciting collaboration, possibly even in local events and exhibitions. “The world within the circle spreads to meet other circles”, ETRO tells us, “now close your eyes and tell us what you can see”. Will do. Are You A Poet?
Calvin Klein #mycalvins SS16
With just one campaign, Calvin Klein has gone quite monumental. The new strategy is not just another advertising campaign, it’s a sweeping blow that endorses fashion, pop culture, music and – surprisingly - street life. To visualize the idea of a global campaign that establishes a new philosophy of participation and creation, the brand tapped photographer Tyrone Lebon, who shot the campaign in collaboration with his father, his brother and Klein cooperator David Sims. Even more striking than this creative team is the class of millennial celebrities that lend their faces to the campaign: Justin Bieber, Kendall Jenner, FKA twigs, Kendrick Lamar, Fetty Wap, Saskia de Brauw, to only name a few. Again, Calvin Klein sweeps in musicians, models, artists, but also – and that’s for the street life element – street cast models. Each shot is completed by the line “I _____ in #mycalvins”, obviously aiming at a social-media driven participation in the campaign. One step ahead, Calvin Klein also added a Spotify profile to supply fans of both brand and campaign with playlists and interactive content. And with a package this complete, we really can’t help it. We’re swept away, too.
Nobi Talai F/W 16/17
The third collection for designer Nobieh Talalei borrowed elements from nomad tribes, an obvious source of inspiration. What could have become stuck in a concept turned into wearable pieces, made from cozy fabrics coincidentally perfect for combating the harsh climate of Berlin’s streets outside: Japanese leather and plush shearling, otherwise used most notably by heritage toy manufacturer Steiff. For FW 16/17 Talalei showcased capes abound, such as a woolen cape vest supposed to be tied around the body, draping asymmetrically around female form. The look invoked futuristic desert planet associations just as much as a nostalgic longing for freedom on the tramp. Layering and folklore vibes find balance in crafted designs in solid neutrals and jewel tones for a polished, modern collection with melancholy notes of orientalism.
Fashion Designs presented by Shih Chien University
Traditionally, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin trickles out over the course of its final day, when editors and buyers abandon Berlin and move on to the next shows. As the students of Shih Chien University proved with their FW 16/17 was that is without a question their loss. The Taiwanese University long holds the title of one of the world’s best design schools. In walk two of Yu-Qi Zheng’s models with winged shoulders and pompous headpieces. Far eastern design elements made an appearance on Yi Ma’s designs in the shape of Buddha prints, others incorporated Asian letters or ritualistic accessories, gaping a divide between manga-esque looks and deities. These students by no means over conceptualize their work or cater to cosplayers rather than fashionistas. Each collection is more haute – couture than comic con, begging the question of what is next for this talented bunch.
Louis Vuitton's Time Travel: F/W 2016/17
Presented at the Parc André Citroën, Louis Vuitton revealed the Men's Fall/Winter collection as a ride with a time machine. With his seventh collection for the label, Men's Artistic Director Kim Jones once again dug into the archive of Vuitton and found inspiration from 162 years of brand history. Intertwined with the latest trends from today, he created a “new heritage”, a conversation between past and present. The past starts in the era of Art Déco, of the Dandy and aesthetics shaping the image of Paris. Naturally, the inspiration from the present is drawn from today. This dialogue between now and then finds support in an exclusive art display by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki, titled “Liminal Air Space-Time”. A floating piece of fabric is set to underline the flow of time and to raise the viewer's attention to the dimensions of time and space. Additionally, the designs are also inspired by men of the past, who were originators of style even back then. Among these is Alexis Von Rosenberg, the Baron de Redé, who inspired jewellery pieces that riff on the edges of Dandy style. Kim Jones also extends this collection as a continuation of other Vuitton projects: a ribbon motif sketches out the words “Volez Voguez Voyagez” as a wink to the recent same-titled travel exhibition. Dandys, Art Déco and a flowing piece of art? To us, Louis Vuitton's time machine seems like a pretty exciting ride.
Laurèl FW 16/17
Congratulations are in order: designer Elisabeth Schwaiger celebrates her 20th anniversary with Laurèl and has all of 40 collections under her belt. The occasion translated into a throwback to the label’s core and a bright look ahead. “Say my name” is the tagline for the FW16/17 pieces with empowering garbs that bring out each woman’s personality. Schwaiger celebrates the modern woman as cool, calm and collected, as seen in an all white ensemble of turtleneck and pants, adorned with a leather vest or a number of velvet evening gowns straight from the Laurèl archives. Ultimate highlight? A formation of 4 models dressed in short mohair sweaters with names woven onto the back: Christy, Amber, Stella, Diane – credit where credit is due.
“The Stig” Vernissage In Munich
Friday, January 22nd, combined car and camera: ZOO’s Bryan Adams and Sandor Lubbe attended the opening of the vernissage “The Stig” at the Jaguar Land Rover Store at Odeonsplatz in Munich, Germany. The photos displayed are an extension to the exclusive editorial shot by Bryan Adams and art directed by Sandor Lubbe for our current issue No. 49. In reminiscence of the TV cult series “Top Gear”, the editorial was called “The Stig” after the mysterious series character. It visually combines high fashion with quality cars, presenting the model in a face-covering bodysuit by A.F. Vandervorst as well as the Jaguar XF. For the Munich vernissage, the photo shoot even came “alive”. Model Anna Meyer starred as the evening’s “Stig”, again referring to the pictures by posing in a full-on bodysuit. The free exhibition will be on display until February 21st, open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-4pm.
Les Hommes F/W 2016 Collection
The men at Les Hommes are “born to be wild”. We hope that now, you have that road trip suggesting tune in your ear and imagine yourself on a roaring motorcycle. Seemingly, that’s what Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did. Their latest Les Hommes collection is a road trip on the back of a motorbike – with a gang of friends, a group of fellow bikers, all there to support. With these bikers as major inspiration, Les Hommes undergoes a journey from urban surroundings to the final destination of the African continent. Eventually, this also transfers onto the looks. Menswear classics from the world of motorcycles like performance fabric pants, perfecto and biker jackets and studded shirts mark the start of this on the go collection. They develop into colorful, almost pop looks with multi-material 3D geometries and a hint of couture inspiration. As the bikers reach Africa, the layering of Central Africa costumes comes through in layers of wools and oversize scarves. Accessories on the other hand stay simple: we travel without bags, only wearing studded gloves and bandanas. Ready for the ride? Hop on!
Dior Spring/Summer 16 Campaign
In fashion, time has no meaning. It is as swinging as a pendulum and as shifting as the arms of a clock. Therefore, the current releases of Fall/Winter collections go along with the releases for Spring/Summer campaigns. Get over the bizarre and focus on the facts: Dior has released their new Spring/Summer campaign. Typically charming and light-hearted, with these visuals, Dior stays soft and romantic. Dresses are equally airy or delicately pleated. Contrasting to that are black blazers conveying a serious attitude. In terms of delicacy, one has to have a look at the accessories: grosgrain necklaces are embellished with an “8” pendant that throws it back to the first Dior show in 1947. Less retro-reminiscence is found in the Diorever and Diorama bags, which remind of architectural lines and an innovative level of design. It might be time to reveal both Fall collections and Spring campaigns, but after campaigns like this one, we’re asking ourselves: Spring, why are you taking so long?
LOEWE’s Fall/Winter 2016 Campaign
“A redefinition of normality in classics” – Jonathan Anderson finds poetic words for the new LOEWE collection. His latest designs, revealed on Friday, January 22nd, are preceded by the corresponding advertising campaign. Model Jackson Wakefield is shot against another rather artistic backdrop: a sculpture by Paris artist M/M combines rugged rock-like formations with iridescent sections, which is set to reflect the character of the Fall/Winter collection. Wakefield poses in a blue overcoat with an eccentric piece of headwear. Redefinition of normality, it seems. To highlight the closeness to real “normality”, the campaign was distributed to 510 kiosks across all Paris as well as a billboard outside of LOEWE’s design studio at 76 rue Bonaparte. So, if you pop out in Paris to maybe catch the latest newspaper, an edition of ZOO or just a quick coffee, keep your eyes peeled for the new LOEWE campaign. Your idea of normality might just be redefined.
Peuterey Studio Collection F/W 16
How to stand out from the crowd is an infinite question. It applies to almost every field of work, of entertainment, of culture. Nevertheless, with their latest collection, Peuterey took on exactly that question. In fact, they question a lot in the fashion business. Along with Federico Curradi's debut designs, the brand has released a movement of “realitytelling”, as opposed to the ongoing frenzy that fashion can sometimes cause. The new Peuterey man is a thinker, a maker, a creator, who is not afraid to get his hands dirty to achieve his goals. Behind this lies a concept of truly deep thoughts – with the goal to highlight two main things: authenticity and purposefulness. Fashion, according to Peuterey, should not be fast, selfish and attention seeking, but should satisfy and be useful to the person wearing it, to let them be theirselves in the best possible way. Therefore, the new collection underlines a promising message of utility to its wearer: parkas and blousons are being rethought with new fabrics, overcoats and duffels have straps to be repurposed into rucksacks and blazers can be used in multiple ways. Patch pockets not only suggest real utility but work as accessories in more ways than one. Classic fabrics are intersected with double-faced, technical and diagonal wools, nylon and gabardine. The color palette comes across as somber, with 50ies inspired accents: charcoal, rust and military greens. If after all, this sounds way too utilitarian to you, don't despair. Purposefulness never meant going out of style. Authenticity never meant being unfashionable. For reference, have a look at Peuterey again.
JIL SANDER Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
London Men’s Fashion Week saw a lot of collections being devoted to the motives of protection, uniformity and military. In Milan, a few designers also presented their take on this theme, JIL SANDER being one of them. By itself, their F/W 16 collection is not a pure military reminiscence, but a metropolitan version of it. There are harnesses crossing the bust but also tailored jackets and capes. The protective effect is certainly shown with voluminous parkas edged in velvet, but bare arms under sleeveless vests also suggest vulnerability. There are ribbed jumpers with patched shoulders, but also city maps on silk shirts, blown into abstract proportion. For a both innovative and strict line like JIL SANDER, it would be too easy to go down the simple line of military inspiration. Even mixing it with urbanity would be insufficient. That’s the twist of JIL SANDER: making simple clothing backed by complex inspiration. Nevertheless: if you wear it, you’ll feel protected, but not shielded. You’re still a metropolitan.
Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 Runway Show
Like pulling a fan from the purse, last weekend, Milan pulled out its best, notable designers and brands to feature their latest menswear F/W 16 collections. One piece of that multifaceted fan was Calvin Klein Collection. The label’s Creative Director Italo Zuccheli presented his collection, featuring 42 looks shown by seven male and four female models, at the company’s headquarter. The gender-crossing casting is set to underline the universal power of men’s tailoring, which was also highly visible in the new designs. Keeping it both classy and classic, the garments include core pieces fundamental to the brand’s identity and menswear essentials. The exquisite tailoring stands next to sumptuous textures and silhouettes. This collection’s eye catchers are a selection of dazzling outerwear pieces, displaying a range of gold, silver and rose gold. Other than that, Calvin Klein’s color palette stays rather neutral, with a selection of black, white, camel and ivy rounding up a collection that spins between eye catching and toned-down pieces. Of course, in the end, Calvin Klein finds a way to balance itself out. That’s the key to fashion, isn’t it? Felicitazione!
Prada Women’s Spring Summer 16 Campaign
Just one week after the release of their latest menswear campaign, defined by vulnerability and relaxed attitudes, Prada has revealed the visuals for the matching womenswear campaign. Steven Meisel shot models Natalia Vodianova, Sasha Pivovarova and Yasmin Wijnaldum indoors in New York. With an equally relaxed attitude as their male counterparts, the three women define undone elegance and a toned-down femininity while still oozing sensuality. As far as that, the attitude is the only thing that comes across as relaxed in this campaign. For the garments, Prada experiments with layering decades of the past to refigure them into modernity. If all, one could define it as conservative eccentricity. The traditional mixed with the contemporary – a blend that has worked well for the Italian fashion house in the past. Nevertheless, they take on new steps with disoriented materials and subversive tailoring. One is uncertain if with Prada, we’re in the past, the present or the future. Another look at the campaign will give you the answer: if anyone can transcend the measure of time, it’s Prada.
Joseph F/W 2016 Collection
You might think urbanity and aristocracy wouldn’t go together all too well. Joseph is here to prove you wrong. The British fashion label presented its bedazzling F/W collection at last weekend’s London Collections: Men with the pursuit of establishing everyday classics modernized by individuality and personality. That’s why the creative minds behind Joseph mixed seventies silhouettes with elements of 90s indie style and heritage colors with shocking tangerine. Naturally, this was not enough. The sky is the limit for the Joseph vision: inside out knitted tracksuits are worn with loafers whereas a camel chesterfield coat finds its partner in a slouchy flare. The Joseph man loops heritage with urban vibes and takes the stage in a nonchalant and precise, instinctive and considered attitude. To achieve that, English fabrics are key. You are what you wear, and if you’re the Joseph man, you’re wearing tweed and cashmere, poplin shirting and velvet. Welcome to the aristocracy, Sir. The urban one, of course.
Casely-Hayford: Irregimental Youth F/W 16
London Collections: Men last weekend was all about protection. Uniformity and regalia seem to have been an ongoing inspiration in multiple collections, whether referenced subtly or interpreted with full-on dedication. Design duo Casely-Hayford has taken on this omnipresent inspiration to focus on British subcultures old and new. The concept sounds complex: appropriating establishment uniformity to create anti-establishment individualism. The result are references from the early 60s, like the Beatles’ psychedelic “Sergeant Pepper” album cover, to the use of military clothing by today’s Hip Hop favorites. To throw in some more edge, the father and son duo also incorporated elements from the Skinhead and 90’s rave culture. For the accessories, Casely-Hayford collaborated with American shoe brand Sperry to combine the roots of craftsmanship and modern sportswear. A key item is the hybrid of boat shoe and creeper, performing a split between past Teddy boys and today’s sportswear modernists. Nevertheless, military stays the driving force in this particular collection. Hand embroidered regimental elements are being reimagined in MA1-jackets. Oversized nylon coats come in the essential military green and not only make for a big appearance – but also protect. Because that is what it’s all about. It’s on!
COACH Men’s Fall 2016
That’s a wrap! The weekend has whizzed by and the presentations at London Collections: Men Fashion Week are already over. Once again, designers were ready to present their latest, exciting designs packed in a tight show schedule. Among these was New York brand COACH, who filled their catwalk with the impressive spirit of the American Dream – but also of everyday life. Finding the heroic in that - everyday life - was the collection’s central intention. Thus the brand presented a curation of cult wardrobe pieces with details driven by the thought of utility. Nevertheless, Creative Director Stuart Vevers added a more fashionable twist by blowing up proportions to an almost cartoonish size. Furry coats, parkas and jackets come in an oversized shape to be paired with essential pleated trousers. The cherry on top comes in form of some ironic accessories: small dinosaurs front the bags, waving their claws at the admirer. COACH FW 16 is all about embracing the authenticity and character that comes from imperfection. Just like we experience everyday life. Well, maybe minus dinosaurs.
Tiger Of Sweden Men's FW 16
It’s back to the roots for Tiger of Sweden. The brand has mentally retreated to their Swedish base for the FW 16 collection, presented last weekend at London Collections: Men. Supported by the sounds of Swedish band Wheeping Willows, Tiger of Sweden presented 35 multifaceted looks that were equally inspired by Swedish traditions and cold northern winters. The designers focused on the Dalarna region, which is equally as known for its botanic artwork which subsequently also became an inspiration for the collection. Continuing the process of adapting old traditions to modern looks, Swedish artist Jacob Krajcik exclusively reworked the colors of pressed flowers to create a modern folk design. Still, the collections color palette stays rather opaque. Black and grey dominate, with splashes of color coming in soft and seldom. However, the collection’s heart piece is a pair of tuxedos: slim cut, single – and double-breasted and shimmering in a soft peach and apricot. Whether it’s the unqiue culture, the special craftwork or just the warmth given in a cold winter – Tiger of Sweden has shown us that indeed, home is where the heart is.
Givenchy Pre-Fall 16
Ricardo Tisci is at it again: he’s introducing his second decade at French fashion house Givenchy with the Pre-Fall 16 collection. For the look book, the models were shot in the studio, but also on the sidewalks of Berlin. The collection’s designs enfold a potpourri of fabrics, ranging from lace, leather and denim to florally embroidered designs. Not only the fabrics are various but so is the inspiration: Tisci created designs equally inspired by everything, from building sites to bedrooms. The latter even provide two different interpretations: fetish silhouettes are presented next to streetwear pajamas. This also transfers to the very present use of lace: dress hems, collars and applications perform a subtle but sublime kind of sexy. Since all of this is destined for a FALL season, Tisci throws in some warm pieces we all might need – brown fur and pinstripe coats included. How does one chose here? Simple: not at all. More is more, isn’t it?
CHANEL’S City Western SS16 Campaign
To be honest, the fashion world is spinning so fast that sometimes, one has trouble to keep up. Think CHANEL. One minute, we’re still reminiscing about their iconic airport show, the next we’ve already taken off! Destination: Wild West, but also the city. The latest SS16 campaign combines both: CHANEL’s City Western. The French brand premiered the new RTW and accessories campaign with two mini feature films. In it, models Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz take on the empty streets of Brooklyn, New York. Their favorite travel accessory: the “Coco case” cabin case. The main collection’s visuals were shot by Karl Lagerfeld himself and feature ethereal and colorful silhouettes. Montero and Arganaraz wander about in eccentric print combinations, oozing sophistication and effortless coolness. Functional-but-chic accessories that range from the all-essential cabin case to floating silk scarves complete their look. The only thing missing? A stylish lasso, maybe. It’s the Wild West, after all.
Louis Vuitton Series 4 Campaign
Louis Vuitton has revealed the latest campaign “Series4” with another portfolio of visual art. The Spring/Summer 2016 visuals continue the brand’s system of releasing a variety of visuals, created by different artists, for each collection. This time, the focus lies on the fierceness of women: the heroine. To capture the spirit of the “new muses of a new era”, the brand teamed up with photographers Juergen Teller, Bruce Weber and Japanese video game creator Square Enix. The latter focused on what is most prominent in this particular campaign: the digital age. Enix captured “Lightning”, a character from the popular video game series “Final Fantasy”. Being the most unusual Vuitton model to date, the virtual character is the secret star among the other campaign testimonials, actors Jaden Smith and Doona Bae. “Lightning is the perfect avatar for a global, heroic woman (…). She is also the symbol of new pictorial processes. How can you create an image that goes beyond the classic principles of photography and design? Lightning heralds a new era of expression.”, Nicolas Ghesquière reflected on his choice. New year, new age, new era.
Gigi Hadid Announced as New Tommy Hilfiger Ambassador
American heritage brand Tommy Hilfiger has announced a new partnership with international supermodel Gigi Hadid. The 20-year-old will be the new global brand ambassador, starting in Fall 2016. As a part of this partnership, Hadid will introduce her very first own capsule collection featuring apparel, footwear, accessories and even a special scent. “She is truly the definition of today’s “Tommy Girl” – her magnetic personality is bright and always optimistic, and her style is confident, effortless and cool”, Tommy Hilfiger gushes over the model. Hadid will also launch exclusive events in key markets around the world including the Hilfiger Collection fashion show during New York Fashion Week. The campaign will be shot in New York in 2016.
GUCCI Pre-Fall 2016
A dictionary is a pretty thick book, but there is only one word in it to describe GUCCI’s latest Pre-Fall collection: eclectic. Under the lead of Creative Director Alessandro Michele, the brand presented a colorful, multifaceted collection that leaves almost no color, fabric or print untouched. Indeed, the list seems infinite: animals, flowers, landscapes, stripes, stars and even more– Michele has everything in store. Contrary to other fashion designers, who like to take their influences from just one decade or era, Michele adds everything to his boiling pot of inspiration. Just like in his last collections, vintage is claimed excessively– resulting in references from past centuries to the 1970s. This (again) eclectic mixture can only be adapted by few fashion brands - and GUCCI certainly is one of them. A dictionary might be a thick book, but with GUCCI, there’s one word missing: boredom.
DKNY x New Museum Host Intimate Miami Beach Dinner
In celebration of a new partnership December 2, 2015, saw DKNY and New Museum host an exclusive dinner as part of the Miami Beach Art Basel. As guests were top names in fashion and art, they included the likes of Lisa Phillips, Shelley Fox Aarons, Dominique Levy and Karen Wong. With creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, DKNY is collaborating with the art institution to further advocate women artists, as the New Museum has made one of its top priorities over the past 38 years. “The New Women’s Project” brings focus and support to the exhibitions and commissions of five women artists this coming year. Not only this, but DKNY will become the Lead Sponsor of the New Museum’s spring 2016 exhibitions, including solo exhibitions by Nicole Eisenman, Goshka Macuga, Cally Spooner and more, whilst overseen by Massimiliano Gioni, Artistic Director of the museum.
Versace opens in Berlin
In an exciting collaboration between Donatella Versace and the English architect, Jamie Fobert, Versace are opening a new concept store on Berlin’s Kurfürstendamm. Taking a piece of the label’s heritage to their new location, the 350 sqm boutique brilliantly fuses together values of traditional Italian architecture with the dynamic energy we see at Versace today. Providing the immaculate setting for the fashion brand’s prêt-à-porter collections and accessories are 9th century Byzantine church-inspired marble mosaics, dramatic brass features and modernistic perspex walls and shelves…As Donatella puts it, “In fulfilling this project Jamie Fobert has created a space in which the new Versace spirit can take flight”, whilst paying homage to the label’s past, present and future.
Céline opens Munich Boutique
With only a few stores out there, Céline is a label that prides themselves upon exclusivity. However, Munich shoppers can breathe a sigh of relief as the Parisian label has opened an accessories store in the Oberpollinger, one of Munich’s major department stores. The 54 sqm ground floor boutique boasts a range of bags, sunglasses and jewellery in an elegant interior design of onyx, ceramic and marble.
Today at Gucci sees creative director Alessandro Michele lead the way in celebrating the “short circuit” of cultural references, in particular the one regarding traditional heritage versus contemporary developments. Perfectly representative of this is the fashion house’s new prints, Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido, as they feature a novel floral/geometric motif that is placed over the signature GG design.
In further exploring the evolution of the iconic Gucci pattern, the label has launched #GucciGram, an online project inviting international image-makers and illustrators to contribute original artworks incoporating the Gucci Blooms and Gucci Caleido motifs. The result of this is a Pop-cultural explosion of different ideas, opinions, messages and mediums offered up by both established names, such as Kalen Hollomon and Noah Kalina, as well as freshly emerging talent such as Chris Rellas. These intriguing, and often amusing, artworks will feature on Gucci’s social media channels and the site listed below.
Woolrich Unveil Second Amsterdam Flagship Store
Designed by the renowned Japanese studio Wonderwall under Masamichi Katayama’s direction, a brand new Woolrich flagship comes to Amsterdam central. Located at the freshly renovated PC Hoofstraat, the boutique is at a prime location, surrounded by fellow international luxury fashion labels.
Extending over two floors, the ground includes an impressive Dutch-style skylight whilst the lower features an intimate lounge area. There are furnishings of Made in the USA Buffalo Check wool, images of the Pennsylvanian Woolrich Mills and items from their archives… In referencing the label’s history, this boutique is reflective of the Woolrich philosophy and a smooth blend of heritage and contemporary.
Fred Perry x Stüssy 35
In commemoration of their 35th Anniversary, Stüssy are collaborating with a number of fellow lifestyle brands whose vision have inspired them along their journey. One of which, being the massively influential British heritage brand, who in the 1950s, pioneered sportswear as streetwear and thus created an entirely new youth culture. This brand is of course, Fred Perry.
This celebratory collection sees the union of two trademark giants, and with that, two iconic logos. Classic, retro sportswear looks from the Fred Perry Sports Authentic line are reimagined in rich Mahogany and French Navy, emblazoned with the Stüssy signature and Fred Perry wreath. Joining these in the collection are two, paneled pique shirts as well as three strap-back caps.
The Fred Perry x Stüssy Collection is now available to purchase online at www.fredperry.com
Casadei Spring/Summer 2016: A New Odyssey
Hitting the stores in late October and only 20 days after the press review, Casadei are breaking the rules with their upcoming New Odyssey capsule collection. Taking inspirations from the shapes and styles of the sixties, the clean lines of 2001 Space Odyssey and the desires of a modern-day Casadei woman, this season at the Italian-footwear label is a fusion of past and present. A monochrome contrast engulfing boots, Mary Janes, ankle boots and sandals, the elegant line carries just the right amount of drama with subtle hints of silvered leather incorporated in its sleek designs. This timeless collection marks the beginning of a whole new chapter for Casadei, who will release the lines Graphic Cuts, Young Jewels and Bright Colors in later months to provide a shoe for every mood of the urban woman, be it contemporary or eclectic.www.casadei.com
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Prada’s mischievous little sister has returned this season with a spring in her fabulously decorated step. Incredible zig zig patterned lace-up boots were executed in vivid hues whilst satin ballet pumps were a mish mash of hard and soft tones, adorned with harsh leather straps and delicate charms.
Solemn plaid checks and tweeds were layered under huge raccoon sashes and sheer shirts and frilled dresses. There were mismatched colors and patterns and jeweled feathered headbands carelessly slung around models necks…Miuccia Prada may have received a devastating loss in her personal life over the past few months, but the playful Miu Miu spirit was out in full force. Amazing.
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Everyone loves a bad girl and since Hedi Slimane’s take over at Saint Laurent, the label’s sales have gone up and up. His daring “fur coat no knickers” approach in this collection has taken the otherwise ordinary and transformed it into the ultimate 90s grunge festival attire.
Constant reworks of this season’s favorite throwback, the slip, appears in sheer lace, silk and sequins under statement jackets with bulky wellies, whilst strappy sandals, blazers and hot pant shorts make the collection seem very Kate Moss-esque.
For his Parisian finale, Slimane shows that his Saint Laurent Bad Girl can do elegance as well – when they want to and on their terms.
Kenzo Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have transported us to the heart of the Meditteranean Summer with their latest line for Kenzo.
A decidedly young collection, it is packed with crop tops, bodysuits and mini skirts, not to mention their brilliantly reimagined 90s waist bags. Accessorizing with ornate jewelry and contemporary, gladiator-style thigh high boots, Lim and Leon elaborately mix occasions in each look whilst exploring bold tribal prints in vivid colours. The end effect is busy, but a cheerful one at that.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at PFW
Putting the pizzazz back in fashion, Alber Elbaz staged his latest collection for the label in front of a theatre setting. The show began with the Lanvin woman’s day wear, or some sleek reworks of tailored suits, before suddenly turning to what really matters to Elbaz; cocktail dresses and evening wear.
On came a parade of asymmetric gowns amidst a sequined snowball effect with numerous ruffles and satin bows. Next was a dramatic progression to bold Lanvin prints, lace edging, corsages and raincoats.
Overall this collection oozes the eclectic, 1930s glamour we have seen traces of in Paris Fashion week so far. What makes this one stand out is the elaborate playfulness of Elbaz, who is clearly just out for an absolutely fabulous time.
Gucci Opens New Milan Concept Store Celebrating Alessandro Michele’s First Collection
September 21st saw the luxury fashion label open a new concept store in Milan, showcasing the debut of Alessandro Michele with his Fall/Winter 2016 collection for Gucci.
The discreet look of the store welcomes customers to relax inside, perhaps upon on a plush velvet armchair beside a vintage Oriental rug, that contrasts with the harder surrounding features made of iron or marble. In keeping with the theme of their latest eclectic collections, the store draws attention to differences in combining traditional and modern, industrial and romantic.
This new, intimately ‘Gucci” look will be adapted to suit other other stores, respective to their locations.
Blugirl Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Blugirl has grown up this season, according to designer Anna Molinari. In a collection aimed to seduce, there are open shirt-dresses with ruffles, butterfly prints and asymmetric lines across the shoulder toying with femininity and sensuality. The palette is bold and bright with stripes breaking up block colours on beautifully soft fabrics such as crepe, taffeta and plumetis.
Charged with unpredictability are the diverse silhouettes and sharply contrasting lengths, in either baring the full leg and reaching the ankles. Overall, Molinari has achieved what she set out to with this current ready-to-wear in expressing a modern, playful femininity that will surely fly out of the shops.
Tod’s Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
The inspiration behind Alessandra Facchinetti’s latest collection for Tod’s is the formation of a new girl band. Members include the likes of Langley Fox Hemingway, Elizabeth Jagger and Chelsea Tyler; all either walking the show or sat in front row.
With a rockabilly start the collection is all Gommino loafers, neck scarves and quiffs. Monochrome prints and cropped trousers with leather a key fabric in the entire collection. Slouchy jumpers and unbuttoned shirts accessorized with printed bags exude an air of cool nonchalance – key to any successful band.
Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Tomas Maier has taken us on a grand excursion to the outdoors with his latest collection for Bottega Veneta.
Starting off with his favourite hobbies, a sailcloth has become his biggest source of inspiration for the current line, which is easily reconised in his ruffled maxi dresses, tassle rope details and A-Line coats.
A mix of camo and animal prints amongst flashes of red and neutral tones and a range of contemporary jackets make for an exciting collection with a definitively urban edge.
Missoni Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
Taking a trip down memory lane, Angela Missoni has reintroduced sportswear as the basis of this season’s collection. Using the colourful artworks of Venezuelan Carlos Cruz Diez as inspiration, the show saw a runway packed with vivid prints and colors.
Zig zags and checks accompany stripes on the pieces, accessorized with chokers and sneakers or flat sandals. Looks were simplistic, usually including a maxi length dress or open cardigan or micro shorts or swimwear, keeping silhouettes sleek and long. An overall more relaxed feeling than last season at the label.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at MFW
As promised, Philipp Plein has delivered another rock-pop spectacle with his show at MFW. Studded boots, a robot-backed Courtney Love performance and Black Swan style tutus, it is Terminator meets eighties Rock God and conjures up memories of his SS16 menswear line.
Leather biker jackets, emblazoned with patchwork badges reading quotes like “GOD SAVE HIP ROCK”, are covered in his signature studs and teamed with slinky metallic dresses.
With technology being a key ingredient to this collection, models walking the catwalk as if on a conveyor belt… This was of course after a robot had accessorized them.
Claire Barrow Spring/Summer 16 Collection at LFW
“Broken Machines”, reflects Claire Barrow’s prophecy of our society’s doomed fate. In a world primarily dependent on technology, the NEWGEN designer’s presentation reflects a world in which this entity, imperative to our being, breaks down and leaves us out in the cold.
Worn by a selection of models Barrow has personally sought after, the gender-blurred collection is a beautiful jumble of silks, lace-up leathers, power suits and her trademark scrawling prints.
CHANEL Unveils Ephemeral Boutique in Rome
In place of its previous Via del Babuino boutique CHANEL has opened an ephemeral boutique, which is just steps away from its new boutique on the Piazza di Spagna, Rome.
The House welcomes “the masculine-feminine”, a concept treasured by Gabrielle Chanel. With a raw, minimalistic design of white floors and ceilings separated with oak, terrazzo and concrete modules, the understated boutique is appealing to both sexes.
Filling up the space will be the Ready-to-Wear line with accessories and the new, unisex, Boyfriend watch collection. There is also a fragrance and beauty section with a picturesque, Roman courtyard hidden behind the boutique.
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at LFW
With bold prints, latex and an unflinching red, black and white palette, it was go hard or go home for Gareth Pugh’s latest collection. Diverting away from last year’s ritualistic themes this season was all about flamboyance.
Masked models with choppy wigs wore plunging V-neck cuts and asymmetric shapes. Adorning his clothes with coins, this eccentric motif reappeared throughout the show and reminded onlookers that sometimes, you just have to go all out. At his LFW debut, this show has proven to be iconic for the designer.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
Reminiscent of the label’s 1994 collection, which was immortalized thanks to the likes of Kate Moss on its runway, Francisco Costa has turned his head back to basics with the inspiration of a simple slip.
Adding a grunge twist, his sleek soft silk maxi dresses have split hems and loose straps, whilst lightweight, beautifully tailored long jackets with split cuffs billow over frayed-hem trousers. Mainly in a minimalistic neutral palette, Costa adds a touch of unpredictability to the label’s collection with the incorporation of floral print.
Lacoste Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With not one croc logo in sight, Portugese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to shake things up at Lacoste.
Beginning the show with a proud French palette of red, navy and white, Baptista goes on to include Olympian colored flags and refer to flags of other nations’. The message could not be clearer – Baptista is all about spreading the love; uniting the nations.
With founder René Lacoste as a tennis champ himself, Baptiste does not forget the origins of the label… Sliders, tracksuits and polo necks, Lacoste remains today as the ultimate sports-meet-leisure wear.
Nicopanda Spring/Summer 2016 Collection at NYFW
With so many different things going on, Nicola Formichetti has created his own world with the theatrical SS16 presentation of Nicopanda.
There are glitter-faced ballerinas from a childlike fantasy, underwear clad guys holding bouquets of flowers, not to mention the sheer amount of black PVC adding more than a splash of dominatrix…
This wonderfully bizarre, sports-inspired collection sees the continued diffusion and interpretation of a harajuku influence we saw two seasons ago at Nicopanda, with contemporary, tubed sneakers and baroque style embellishments.
Madame Tussauds may as well give up now, as the candle replica of Karl Lagerfeld is quite brilliant. His iconic look of dark shades, signature white collar and black top button is perfectly captured in this amusing homeware delight… Perfect if you feel you need a little Karl in your life/cupboard.
Co-designed by John-Paul Welton, the scent itself is naturally inspired by all things Karl. Delicately spiced mandarin surrounds the top notes of cinnamon, whilst it’s center includes soft jasmine and orange blossom fused with cardamom, nutmeg and tobacco. Cedar and teak wood, musk and amber finish up at the base of the luxuriously elegant scent, ultimately embodying his very character.
“Candle Karl” has found itself on shelves in limited edition at the Maison and Objet Paris and is available to preorder in store at Karl Lagerfeld.
Xavier Dolan Realizes His Fashion Dreams with Louis Vuitton
Once hailed Quebec Cinema’s Boy Wonder, Xavier Dolan now celebrates being the face of Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2015 campaign. Dolan shot to fame with his directorial debut, “J’ai tué ma mère” at the tender age of 20. His fifth feature film, “Mommy”, also gained him international recognition in winning last year’s Jury Prize at Cannes Film Festival.
Photographed by Alasdair McLellan, Louis Vuitton’s showcases Ombré, the fashion label’s latest collection of leather goods. Dolan models two iconic bags from the range, the Keepall and the Porte-Documents Voyage Bandoulière. The actor/director/Paris-front-row-sitter, who has claimed it to have always been a childhood dream of his to front a luxury fashion brand, can now safely tick one off his bucket list.
Louis Vuitton’s newest campaign featuring Xavier Dolan hits magazines this October.
Converse Celebrate a 35 Year Old Stüssy!
The all American brands Stüssy and Converse have teamed up in celebrating the former’s 35th Anniversary. Commemorating Stüssy’s iconic “Tom Tom” print of zig zags and dots, the collaboration sees an inspired version of the pattern printed on the high tops and low Ox shapes of Converse’s 70s re-crafted Chuck shoe. The graphic featuring in achromatic shades and blue hues is embroidered on these exclusive sneakers in a unique fabric.
The Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Stüssy 35 Collection will be on sale from August 28, 2015, at Stüssy Chapter stores worldwide with a general release on September 4, 2015.
Armani Exchange: New Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign
Giorgio Armani’s latest offering presents an urban city landscape as the backdrop, with models venturing around New York in a variety of relaxed shots.
The menswear looks adopt an undeniable Autumnal feeling with the likes of models Sang Woo and George Eliot in denim suits, layered sweaters and the odd splash of paisley print.
Emma Stern Nielson and Charlotte Carey are the faces of the womenswear campaign. The combination of tailored shirts, wide leg trousers and oversized jumpers give the collection a boyish edge.
See the online boutique of Armani Exchange to view more of this minimal Fall/Winter 2015/16 campaign.
Diesel SS/15 Campaign: #DieselHigh
Rise above. Tolerance. Inclusiveness. LOVE. This is Diesel’s new year’s resolution. With the blazing horns of equality resonating through the Diesel motto, the SS2015 campaign takes fashion to another level. Explained and conceived by creative director Nicola Formichetti, the campaign runs with the #DieselHigh slogan’s provocative and optimistic message – “It’s elevating yourself. Elevating your spirit. Whatever it takes, however you do it. Wherever you are.” The celebration of the unique individual and the spirit of diversity is deeply rooted within Diesel’s DNA. Here it is fully expressed in the SS2015 #DieselHigh formulation – a resounding nod towards the sirens of tolerance, equality and unconditional love. www.diesel.com
Bottega Veneta opens its first boutique in Frankfurt
Located at Goetheplatz 5 in ONE Goethe Plaza, the Bottega Veneta fashion house is pleased to announce the expansion of its brand in Germany with the opening of its first Frankfurt-based boutique. The renewed urban space covers a total of 235 square meters, which includes two floors offering an extensive selection of Bottega Veneta products including ready-to-wear for men and women, handbags, accessories, perfume
Valentino Couture Fall 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
The stunning Valentino collection echoes the Roman Empire that inspired it – a vision of power and excellence, bar none. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have bolstered the Valentino brand with their continual celebration of the house’s Italian heritage, and the Roman goddesses that traversed through the venue this week inspired a worthy standing ovation. From the iconic eagle motif to the immaculately combined color scheme… and those capes! it was truly a spectacle of a collection. The braided hair, simple makeup and subdued gold accessories cemented the image of a modern-day Empress brought to life.
The ‘sheer dress’ trend that might now seem over-exposed drew no such thought, as the perfect execution left the room craving more. It is fantastic how something so delicate can come across as so strong. It makes you wish everyone would embrace the entrancing beauty of this collection, hoping that you might wake up the next morning to a world filled with Valentino Couture. Toss aside the non-wearable Haute Couture connotations – we want to wear every single look. Someone make a film about the Roman Empire using all of these looks… stat!
Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
After 20 years heading the Fendi house as its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld proves is unwavering presence as a force to be reckoned with within the fashion world. He is the only couturier with a second show at Paris Fashion Week, and as imagined, did not hold back. The show proved as controversial as expected. Its title Silver Moon, the house’s first Haute Fourrure (High Fur) collection drew astonishment both from the public and the audience, a feat the very experienced couturier has managed time and time again. The collection was impressive in its showcased technicality, with Lagerfeld expertly mixing furs, feathers and spectacular embroideries that intended to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship in fur since 1925.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
Inspired by the fantasy and extravagance of a cosmopolitan life from Parisian Chic to Roman baroque, Schiaparelli presents a collection that combines the essences of the contemporary urban woman. Fabrics were made to match the elegance and style of the Schiaparelli woman, from black and red-blooded velvets to intricately embroidered coats. Giving way for these luxurious fabrics was a silhouette of simplicity – giving the collection an aestheticism that can almost be regarded as androgynous if it weren’t for the exuberantly feminine prints.
Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015 at Paris Fashion Week
It was a dark and twisted fairy wonderland. Pastel colored fabrics draped beautifully and effortlessly around ethereal models were paired with shiny go go-dancer platforms, dark eye makeup and tousled ‘morning after’ locks. The spectacle of the Atelier Versace show was striking – thousands of glass-encased orchids lined the runway, headlining models included Doutzen Kroes, Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone and Sasha Pivovarova and the crowd was not disappointed. Donatella received a standing ovation at the end of the mystical fairy-gone-bad couture showcase. The gowns were mesmerizing and looked to be taken straight out of the Grimms’ original fairy tales – gritty and fascinating as they are.
Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2015-2016 Campaign: “The Art of Collaboration”
The latest sequel to the ongoing collaborative of Creative Director Tomas Maier and distinct artists, the FW 15/16 campaign is shot by photographer Juergen Teller. Taken in the Museum Casa Mollino in Turin, the campaign has the mark of an unfinished canvas – rough and raw around the edges. The former home of Carlo Mollino, one of the most influential Italian designers of the mid-20th century reflects the spirit of the Bottega Veneta season.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
“In All Disorder A Secret Order”. Kris Van Assche, Creative Director of Dior Homme presented his contemporary take on the haute bourgeois man, a playful interaction between tradition and alternative masculinity. Influenced by the popular sportswear trend, traditional aesthetics are infused by an overwhelming sense of French chic – in true Dior style. Camouflage is paired with the tightly tailored suit, intense colors spread throughout the collection in the form of statement jackets, belts and sleeves enhance the sleekness and simplicity of the SS 16 vision.
Valentino Menswear SS 16 at Paris Fashion Week
The sports infused wardrobe is here to stay. Earthy tones of browns, greens and ochre abound in this very wearable menswear collection. Denims and camouflage round off this fully-fledged men’s wardrobe. Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri constructed with a true sense of quality a collection as multifaceted as it is flexible – the looks would certainly not seem out of place on most urban streets. Perhaps the only danger here is just how much the collections can be applied – wallets beware!
Dries Van Noten Menswear Spring 2016 at Paris Fashion Week
Red scorpions, red palm trees, a red Marylin – the Dries Van Noten Menswear collection was a thoroughly enjoyable, somewhat ominous seduction by way of iconic imagery. Images of Marylin Monroe were emblazoned elegantly through monochrome patterns peppered throughout the collection. Checkered billowing pants, striped shirts and paisley shorts were paired with summery, silky pieces in dark, somber colors. The Van Noten theme evoked imaginings of a sumptuous Hollywood pool party, only darker and more eerie.
Filippa K Fall/Winter 2015
Inspired by the works of Henri Rousseau, the FW 2015 collection is steeped in the mystic ambiance of Rousseau’s naturalistic paintings. Ingrained with French 70’s references, the collection blends Filippa K’s effortless simplicity with rich structure and decorative detailing. The women’s collection is epitomized by the rich wool blazer of a distinctly masculine origin, paired with an A-line leather skirt and a mid calf leather bootee.
The menswear section of the FW 15 collection is marked by a decidedly urban approach to contemporary functionalism and modern tailoring. In this vein, the collection has taken on an air of the sport, street and military references of the revitalized Filippa K man. With voluminous outerwear and a classic color palette, the FW 15 collection is a step towards an urbanized Filippa K aesthetic.
OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer
Berlin-based artist Felix Bauer joins the premium eyewear brand in the creation of a Collectors Capsule Collection aimed at reinterpreting the brand's all-time bestsellers while introducing new models.
Incorporating Bauers’ surreal and dream-like illustrations, the eyewear takes on a fantastical and inspiring air of unconventionality. Bold black and white graphics are intrinsic to the Felix Bauer Collectors’ edition glasses, whose monochromatic essence stylizes Bauers’ illustrations of nature.
The OXYDO Capsule Collection by Felix Bauer will be available in four styles, offered as numbered limited edition pieces. The glasses come with a Bauer-designed booklet, which explores the creative process of incorporating the art with the eyewear.
J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2016
The Northern Irish gusto J.W. Anderson displayed for structural and practical garments came forth in full-force with raw denims, soft leathers and cottons at his London Collections show. The collection showcased Andersons’ true force within the menswear world – depicting the modern man in avant-garde cuts that were somehow made effortlessly classic.
Carrying forth this fashion-forward man was a striking throwback and definitive nod towards Louis XVI, Dorothy’s red ruby slippers and something altogether futuristic all at once. Indeed, this futuristic, mechanical and even astronautically constructed vision firmly plants Anderson in the position as one of menswears’ designated innovators.
Versace FW 2015 Campaign
Versace’s color-blocked playground stars models Karlie Kloss, Caroline Trentini and Lexi Boling as the fashion house’s campaign protagonists. Championing the strong sophistication of the Versace essence, primary colors dominate and provoke. Introducing the #GREEK motif, Donatella Versace’s artistic direction steers the iconic brand towards a remixed, modernized play on the mod-dress.
The striking campaign is the result of the photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, who enhanced Donatella’s vision of the woman unfazed and empowered by boldness through color and cut.
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Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring
Creative director Andreas Melbostad found his inspiration in Venice Beach for the upcoming Diesel Black Gold SS 2016 Pre-Spring collection. Known for its authentic Californian way of life, the beach, the bustling city and all manners of street inspired art constitute the iconic location.
With its metropolitan DNA, Diesel injects a decidedly sporty take on the edgier Californian, enhanced by a simplified palette of black and white, accentuated by electric blues and grays. Beach sports galvanized this collections’ structure, with chunky zippers, structured fabric choices and ergonomic tailoring details inspired by surfing and diving gear. The collection is diverse – from leather jackets to sports backpacks and jean styles. Minimalism is paired with an effortless and sporty-chic vibe.
VERSUS VERSACE – Fall/Winter 2015/2016
It is the first collection from Anthony Vaccarello after his permanent appointment as the creative director of Versace. Described by Vaccarello as radical and edgy yet paying homage to the traditional, the FW collection has a decidedly seamless air of timelessness to it.
Revealed during a live online happening, streamed from London, the Versus Versace collection seems the updated closet of a contemporary Scot. With structured coats, tailored suits and the ever so punkish tartan peppered amongst the dark forest greens and the jet-black, Vaccarello interweaves the feminine and masculine, converged under the cloak of the military aesthetic.
The themes are not wholly new to the more alternative-looking side to the Versace fashion house, with Versus Versace having been established in 1989 as the rebellious heart of the Versace oeuvre. Following its mission of instantaneous availability, the collection follows a show now, buy now, wear now mantra.
The collection is currently available at versusversace.com
CHANEL Seoul 2015/2016 Cruise Collection
Colored by Lagerfeld’s elegant crayon-inspired toolkit, the 2015/2016 Seoul cruise collection is inspired by the whimsically refined hanbok, the Korean peninsula’s traditional dress. The May 4th setting framed the angular patterns of the pieces. The Zaha Hadid designed room in the style of neoplasticism, was reminiscent of a sort of Mondrian playground. Nestled between the avant-gardist explosion of color and geometric silhouettes, CHANEL’s trademark appreciation of silks, linens, tulles and lace provided a subtle, yet firm nod towards Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
A contemporary reinterpretation of Asian sophistication, the show was as bold as it was effectual, producing images of a world injected by haute couture playfulness. Closely following the equally as fantastical Paris-Salzburg Métiers d’Art campaign, CHANEL certainly has not fallen short in inspiring reinventions of classics worldwide. The mastery with which Lagerfeld has consummately revitalized cultural classics in the past few years is resolutely underpinned by yet another formidable collection.