Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
60s style colour combinations and dress silhouettes transcended into sheer bohemian floral gowns at the Valentino FW14 show showcased at Paris fashion week. Colour combined metallics paired with sparkly strappy heels transformed the glamour into a wearable yet fashionable night look and exquisitely printed fur overcoats and capes represented the opulent yet hip theme of the collection.
Jean Charles de Castelbajac at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Capturing the Parisian spirit, the Jean Charles de Castelbajac FW14 collection incorporated a largely black and white colour palette with bursts of cobalt blue and bright orange. Square patterns gave the demure cuts a funky edge and large eye covering black floppy hats gave us less is more mystery. Unique creativity was presented through whimsical face motifs applied to dresses, skirts and leather jackets and scissor, paperclip and screw sketches printed onto dress and jumpsuits. The collection excelled in demonstrating a winning combination of classic high end looks with one of a kind statement pieces.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A Bohemian chic was fused with luxe glitzy glamour at the John Galliano FW14 show. Not a usual mix, but wearable and appealing all the same. Earthy tones were splashed onto jumpsuits, floaty dresses and structured, fur collared coats to give a day out in the countryside feel. This was accompanied with chic, uptown glamour represented through luscious velvet and sparkling floor length dresses. The styles clashed triumphantly.
Christophe Lemaire at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Strong utilitarianism was accompanied with soft knitted wool and a subtle elegance at the Christophe Lemaire FW14 show. The largely navy blue, cream and black colour palette combined with relaxed silhouettes to create a casual yet professional chic. The simple colours and clean cuts were mixed with the creative use of layering to produce a simple and classic collection.
Balmain at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Powerful, strong utilitarianism was presented with the signature intricate Balmain patterning and experimental combinations were worn alongside stripes of leopard print at the Balmain FW ’14 show. The collection was fearless in its obvious extravagance and daring in its combining of jungle style zebra and leopard prints with bright yellow and orange furs. Hip hop style was referenced through all black leather and gold hoop earrings and an inventive rope like texture was used to create unique dresses and tops.
Dries Van Noten - Inspirations, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs
Notable Belgium born fashion designer Dries Van Noten has assembled a collection of his fashion inspirations compiled from his 30 years as a designer in the industry. Dries Van Noten who comes from three generations of tailoring has created an exhibition entitled ‘Dries Van Noten Inspirations’ that explores how he works when it comes to creating his designs and the correlation between art and fashion. The experience provides an excursion into a fascinating creative mind and demonstrates the clash of styles that are present when it comes to drawing influence from various modes such as music, cultural citations and historical references. Stating that “fashion is more than just pretty clothes” Dries allows us to see the beauty of creating fashion through the use of over 400 pieces. The exhibition is about revealing, celebrating and sharing the creative process behind conceiving magnificent clothing and will run until 31st of August 2014 at Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris.
Day 4: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Simple, graceful structure was partnered with creative patterns and colour mixes to create the Bottega Veneta FW ’14 collection. The styles embodied strong femininity while referencing futuristic fashion with the use of graphic black and white prints. Deep purple and burgundy softened the clean lines and extravagant snakeskin bags added a luxurious flare.
Crisp whites, greys and light pastels were showcased alongside blacks, mustard yellows and deep turquoises to create an urbane appearance at the Jil Sander FW ’14 show. Sharply cut coats and straight and metallic dresses bared signature to Sander’s clean – cut aesthetic while the experimental colour palette provided a burst of excitement. Oversize jackets were paired with straight suit trousers and platform brogues to bring a new meaning to office chic while turtle neck sweaters and high waist skirts provided girly sophistication.
HUGO BOSS at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For Fall/Winter 2014/15 young talented creative director Jason Wu showcased a feminine, yet sophisticated debut, that -without question- was able to carry on the brand's DNA. Rich in high-quality fabrics, Jason tailored a line of solid garments out of cashmere and silk hold in black, camel and gray shades. Minimal A-line skirts,long coats with rounded shoulders, next to transparent chiffon dresses made the modern BOSS woman appear self-confident and delicate.
NIKE AIR FORCE 1 x RICCARDO TISCI
Designer and taste maker Riccardo Tisci reinterpreted the Air Force 1, a basketball sneaker well beyond a cultural statement. Many different scenes have adapted the shoe and taken it from the courts to the streets. Nike +R.T. Air Force 1 is all about respect: respect for sportsmanship, respect for an authentic aesthetic, respect for those stars of the basketball court who started the hype, and respect for street culture. Both Tisci and Nike are aware that dissonance creates intrigue produces new inspiring designs. And Riccardo Tisci, the creative director behind über-label Givenchy, is just the right designer for the job.
He created four styles with uppers ranging from low-cut to knee-high. With the Air Force 1 Lo and Air Force 1 Mid, he went a more conventional route; all the while the boot-styles Mid Calf and Knee High appear in highly unusual and dramatically new silhouettes. Multi-colored laces catch the eye and resonate with an almost tribal attitude of a global community. With a shoe as universally appealing as this one, yet very personal, Tisci really dug deep to get to the core of its allure and extract the essence of the Air Force 1 for his designs. He found that the sneaker disregards gender, cities and styles. It is much more part of a democratic community.
The different Nike Air Force 1 x Riccardo Tisci will be available by March 2014.
Chanel at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 2014
Under the dome of the Grand Palais in Paris on tuesday morning, Karl Lagerfeld‘s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014 surprised with a young and youthful défilée. Accompanied by melancholic orchestral sounds of French singer Sebastien Tellier, a rotating stage with mobile walls revealed two staircases and it seemed as if his mannequins would just enter the legendary Cambon Club.
Chanel‘s elegant looks had sporty and young elements. Whether cropped boleros and belled- skirts or transparent, sparkling dresses or the classical Chanel costume -one thing was for sure- the sneaker was the main shoe. Some outfits in girly cream pastels were even worn together with knee pads, elbow protectors and bumbags and underlined the youthful attempt. The show ended with Cara Delevingne's final appearance in a transparent T-Shirt shaped wedding dress.
Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mysterious as the fables by Jean de la Fontaine, the recent collection by Thom Browne veered between the animal and human. The first half of the collection consisted of Browne's trademarks like cropped tweed jackets and pants with the famous red-white-blue ribbon. Seemingly, he put all his imagination in the head dresses, designed by milliner Stephen Jones. Different types of hats depicted all sorts of animals, from elephants to mouses. The second half of the collection brought back Browne's showmanship in clothes. Like couture, the jackets and pants had an imaginative sensibility with broad shoulders and hips while the waist was kept slim. This made for a broad, regal silhouette, highlighted with leaf-prints and -appliqués.
Melinda Gloss at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mathieu de Ménonville and Rémi de Laquintane of Melinda Gloss made a contemporary silhouette with loose shapes and sharp tailoring for their Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Subtle ski-references were made with headbands, elastic hems and big parka's. The color palette was dark but deep with bottle-green, grey and purple.
Hien Le and Baby-G at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Traditionally, Hien Le’s show kicks off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. This time around the designer partnered up with Baby-G, re-interpreting the classical model of the watch brand - with the wristbands almost cut from the same cloth as Le’ s designs and therefore being the perfect addition to the collection’s looks. The collection in itself was rather bold in shades of Bordeaux and petrol, considering Hien Le’s usual affinity to intriguing designs in muted colors and patterns. That is not to say that Le strayed from the usual grays and nudes.
For fall/winter 2014/15, wearable pieces for both sexes were made from wool, cashmere, leather and silk. Hien Le’s choice of music was maybe just as bold, with Kanye West blasting from the speakers the second the lights went off. Once again, Le put forward game-changing looks and ideas.
Givenchy at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The setting for the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2014 show was a fenced basketball field, a literal reference to the main inspiration of the collection. Riccardo Tisci used several trademarks from the sport, like the orange hems that reminded of the Knicks, seams from basketballs and marks used on the field. Other influence for Tisci was the Bauhaus movement, which explained itself in the lines and big bands used as pockets on pants and to gather fur vests.The overall impression was very street, with some posh exceptions. Take for instance the classic sleeveless jersey that was made of fur rather than nylon mesh. Most outings fit right in with the Givenchy-vocabulary but the newness of the collection were the outings that consisted a wide, slightly flared pair of trousers and a knee-length slim coat.
Julius at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In the presence of more than a few stroboscopes, Tatsuro Horikawa of Julius outed his Fall/Winter 2014 collection and it seemed to come straight from the future. Apparently the designer isn't to optimistic about it, as he mentions "extremely deformed bodies" and "nervous pulses" in the shownotes. Even though the day after tomorrow isn't all that what we hope to be, at least we can protect ourselves (and look cool) with the built-up shoulders and wrapped necklines of Julius. Mostly black, the collection experimented on layering and volume. Later, in white, the most comforting part of the show came: a material that evoked a blanket that was used for tunnel necks and big coats.
ICEBERG at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The new ICEBERG collection, introduced during Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, clearly took inspiration in Bruce Wayne's Gotham City, transforming all it's protagonists into a heroic Batman. The innovative use of textures and prints in combination with luxurious and modern fabrics, underlined the spirit of transformation. Along with mohair knits, jacquard jackets, neoprene sweatshirts, silk and poplin shirts, Federico Curradi did not miss out on embellishing his garments with the brands signiture: 3D graphical prints.
Walter van Beirendonck at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The soundtrack to Walter van Beirendock's fall/winter presentation was Gesaffelstein, a young DJ from France known for his aggressive and loud music. This could not have fit better in a collection so militant as the latest by the Belgian designer. Although the whole presentation was very colorful, most outings came with a felt soldiers helmet which at times was adorned with an enormous Native American head dress. There were some military influences on the clothing itself but they mostly centered around the idea of cut-outs. Side-panels of belted wool coats were left open to reveal colorful prints. Somewhere in the mind of Walter van Beirendonck must have been a schoolboy, which explains the vertically striped suits and emblems on sweaters.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Giorgio Armani designs for Fall/Winter 2014 had an athletic and Bohemian approach. Three-piece suits with massive shoulders and textures from corduroy to velvet will play the keyrole next winter's mens'wear dominated by dark hues, blue, sage, brown and grays.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Philipp Plein's cowboy and Wild Western-themed collection, was born out of his childhood memories, when he dreamt of empty saloons, sheriffs on horses and hunted banditos. His looks were sometimes topless and accessorized with saddles, bolo ties, badges, reptile belts and fringes. Crystal studded blazers, biker jackets and sheriff dusters were the highlights of the show, which ended by a performance of legendary rapper Angel Haze.
KTZ at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
KTZ Fall/Winter 2014
For this year’s LC:M mens‘wear collection, KOKON TO ZAI' s spiritual-tribal interpretations have pushed the statement even further. Known for the use of meaningful symbols, the two designers Marjan Pejoski and Sasko Bezovski graced oversized bomber jackets, hoodies and tight leggins with leather lazer cuts in labyrinth-like sanskrit and cryptic typography, all kept in a monochromatic white and black colour palette.
G-STAR RAW UTILITY
After star chef Sergio Herman closed his memorable 3 Michelin star awarded restaurant Oud Sluis based in the Netherlands on the 22nd of December 2013, he now has a new life time project together with his right hand Nick Bril. Located in a chapel of a former military hospital in Antwerp, the 'The Jane' opens doors early 2014. For that occasion a specially designed workwear collection by G-Star will be launched: the G- STAR RAW Utility collection. The exclusive line adds an extra dimension to G-Star's passion for authentic functionality and consists of six designs with which the team, from chef to hostess to sommelier, can make their own combinations. 'Just like me, The Jane‘s concept is out of the box, which suits G-Star. The brand is raw, consistent and innovative, which is what I always try to be', says Sergio. He has put the finishing touches to the kitchen proof collection, including the chef's jacket with special pockets for culinary utensils.
The official launch of RAW Utility will take place in February 2014 during the opening of 'The Jane‚ in Antwerp. The innovative collection will be available online from March 2014.
REPLAY For FC Barcelona
As an official partner of the FC Barcelona, the denim brand REPLAY will design the formal outfits and casual wear of the Spanish football team for the next four years. Under the theme 'Denim, made to measure‘, the exclusive garments are tailor-made from high-quality materials, yet still strongly influenced by the brands denim heritage. For events, the players will wear two different looks in indigo-blue interpreting jeans in a new light. The first look consists of a custom-made suit of blue-gray iridescent comfort denim in combination with a shirt made of 100% cotton. Also the second look -a suit made of pure wool with dark-blue herringbone patterns- shows up the trendy slim-fit.
On top of this, the 'smart casual collection' creates a sporty, yet elegant look, inclu- ding the REPLAY Denim Zero°-Jeans -the highlight of this line- washed with REPLAY's eco-friendly process in which high-pressure ice crystals reduce water consumption by 90%, minimising its en- vironmental impact. Furthermore, overcoats and newly- invented REPLAY footwear -including the Oxford and Brogue model- will complete the football players out-standing looks.
Fans can shop the FC Barcelona Capsule Collection FW 2013/14 including the REPLAY Denim Zero°-Jeans in REPLAY stores and online.
G-SESSIONS Final - Vote Now
How to one up a year long anniversary celebration? By giving a group of young talents the chance to design their own G-SHOCK model in a contest. Renowned mentors from all G-SESSIONS destinations have selected one contestant to take under their wing and helped them create a watch design. The mentors are designer Patrick Mohr, singer and producer Ghostpoet, design-duo Tomas Overtoom and Liza Korfman, artist Kirikoo Des, action sport photographer Nikita Vilkin Yarutskiy, MTV presenter-turned DJ Johann Wald, Marcelo Burlon and County Of Milan designer Giorgio Di Salvo. A presentation entailing a song, a performance, a video clip or a piece of art supports each creation. From now on, the designs can be voted on online at www.g-sessions.de. Who will come out on top?
During the G-SESSIONS Finals on the 28th of November the winning design will be announced, and later produced and sold in a limited edition. Obviously, winning would rock. But so does voting, as all participants are in the mix to either win a limited edition of the winning design or a trip to Berlin to attend the G-SESSIONS Finals. In light of the award ceremony in Berlin, G-SHOCK will launch two new models from the Gold Series in rose gold. With analog digital displays in different gold hues and black, these sturdy models are treats for all G-SHOCK fans and a great pick-me-up in case you don‘t win a limited edition for voting.
G-Star RAW Presents Afrojack Capsule Collection
This November G-Star RAW is launching a unique six-piece capsule collection in collaboration with the Dutch DJ and music producer Afrojack. The limited collection consists of black leather and denim A-Crotch pants that G-Star designed in the brand's renowned 3D style, tailor-made for the acclaimed artist's performances earlier this year. In addition to that the collection features great T-shirts, a black hoodie and a cap, all dominated in black and white. The 'A' trademark is continued in the 'RAW' artwork and conveys a modern and technical feel with a glossy, high-density technique. Part of the collection will contribute to the MTV Music Awards.
The collection will be available from 10th of November. Watch the Making-of video on
Marc Jacobs Accessories Shop Opening
Some Marc Jacobs is great, but more Marc Jacobs is better. It doesn’t come as a surprise then that one of Berlin’s more luxe destinations – the Galeries Lafayette – have added the designer’s main line to their portfolio, which, until now, already included the younger and more affordable Marc by Marc Jacobs. The accessories shop is situated on the ground floor and offers goods from the Fall/Winter ‘13 collection, such as the super-feminine and modern “The Metropolitan" – a rather classical and sober bag in a high-velocity mix of velour and nappa leather.
Or the dearly personal “The 1984" – an elegant and feminine homage to the 80ies, Jacob’s graduation from Parsons The New School for Design, Madonna’s hit “Like a Virgin" and last but not least the designer’s encounter with Robert Duffy and the subsequent manifestation of the fashion brand under his name.
Levi's® Revel Launch
Denim is the universal everyday uniform. Skinny or high-waist, boyfriend or drop-crotch, the selection seems endless. Unfortunately, so does finding that one perfect pair. Enter Levi's®, who have been on the forefront of finding the perfect jeans throughout the company‘s history. Last night they unveiled their latest breakthrough at their Berlin store. What started with the female-only Lady Levi‘s® in 1934 and went high-tech with the Curve ID system in 2010 has gone through yet another evolution.
The Levi‘s® Revel employs liquid shaping technology, a system that infuses the denim with a liquid to control its stretch in all the important places and highlights the female form by lifting and modeling the silhouette. 'Super memory retention‘ in the four-way-stretch is an ideal partner in crime, letting the Revel snap back to its original form no matter what shenanigans they‘ve been put through.
The Revel is based on the Levi‘s® Curve ID Fit System, and available in Slight, Demi and Bold Curve. Details such as the special contouring finish, elongated seams or the positioning of pockets are supposed to optimize the silhouette. A number of finishes, washes and colors, as well as skinny or straight legs assure the right model for all shapes, sizes and tastes.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 the traditional French House Saint Laurent transformed the runway into a spectaculous culisse with moving light rods in triangle shapes accompanied by synthy riffs of Liar‘s ‘Mr. your on fire Mr.‘, which created a strong ambience. Very chic feminine, yet masculine looks mainly consisted of tight leather mini skirts, chic strapless night dresses and transparent chiffon blouses combined with casty blazers. Hedi Slimane got inspired by music icons and youth culture of the 80ies which creates a nonreversible and unique spirit.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The House of Dior for Spring/Summer 2014 conquered the runway with a strong, feminine and very exoctic appearance. This collection was drawing a line of successful new interpretations and a variety of ideas. Raf Simons‘s creations were built on exclusive fabrics, such as bright silks and jacquards and stunning floral prints related to the impressive runway location, which felt like a surrealistic tropical rainforest setting.
The iconic traditional Dior Bar Jacket appeared next to translucent pleat skirts in neon coulors combined with monochromic metallic garments and very powerful multi-coloured dresses. Wrapped tops emphasized the beauty of a woman‘s waistline, relating to the sensual spirit Dior is loved for.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The collection of iconic fashion designer Donatella Versace has been a divine highlight at this Spring/Summer 2014. Bringing up the attitude of rock energy and effortless luxury, it is all going in the direction of creating a fresh streetwear look for the day and a strong appearance at night. The coming season is going to be dominated by leather and denim. Low waisted circle skirts combined with bra‘s made of gauzy fabrics and again and again heavy silver chains and rivets are the basic substance of this collection. Followed by a range of pieces covered with floral patterns in the shades of lilac, as well as exclusive nightwear dresses made of shining fabrics, this collection is clearly a prelude to a powerful 21st century in the signature of Versace. The show got closed with the legendary summer hit „Versace“ by Mikos.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Jil Sander‘s performance on fourth day of Milan Fashion Week was straightforward, linear and dominated by precise cuts. After the german fashion designer has left the brand twice and now is back, this Spring/Summer 2014 feels liberated and relaxed, perhaps because Sander now has finally arrived. According to be the “Queen of less“, the show demonstrated, that less sometimes is more. Being loyal towards her standards and principles, this collection was “Joyful Serenity“ and minimalism par excellence. Made of a combination of simple shapes and unique materials, Sander has showcased stunning garments, highlighted by her pure style elements, she is being adored for. Belly tops and midi skirts gave a shimmer of youthness, slightly wide capri pants and buttonless blazers added some elegant key notes, all in a rather restrained colour palatte.
Mulberry Store Opening in Berlin
The traditional British label Mulberry opened it‘s first own shop on Berlin‘s prestigious Kurfürstendamm on the19 September 2013. The store space was designed with great attention to detail and natural, light materials paying tribute to the labels origin in the British country side. In addition to Mulberry‘s famous handbags and purses, there are accessories, women‘s fashion and shoes to find at the store. For it's opening Chief Executive Bruno Guillon hosted a cocktail event at the new location to officially launch the store and celebrate Mulberry‘s fall/ winter 2013 collection.
Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2014
Creative director Emma Hill showcased exclusive garments for the traditional english brand Muberry. To invite guests to its London Fashion Week show, Mulberry decided to send miniature teacups and saucers created by iconic English tableware and lifestyle brand Wedgwood. The miniatures were- held inside a box embossed with a traditional stately home, the guests’ first glimpse of the catwalk theme. The ‘dolls house’ teacup and saucer were based on the Wedgwood Jasperware in traditional Jasperware colours, which also beautifully reflected the seasonal tones in the Mulberry’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection.
Approaching a playful spirit, the designer managed to showcase a combination on traditional looks on one side and modernism on the other side. Speaking of British Heritage the collection included good quality fabrics such as luxury silk and leathers, all in creamy whites and monochromic colours. Culottes and wide overall’s, sleeveless dresses with flower patterns and leather skirts with simple tailored voluminous blouses on top played the key role in this extraordinary selection of pieces.
Calvin Klein at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Speaking the language of minimalism and innovation, Francisco Costa, who is Creative Director for Clavin Klein since 10 years now, put on the final run at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Simple, oversized and unfinished looking pieces gave an industrial, experimental look.
Knee lenght skirts, on top oversized tops and wide-strap dresses were made of unique fabrics like woven snakeskin, silk and multicoloured yarn. Inspired just by a simple boys‘ T-Shirt and potato bags, Francisco experimented on taking apart, fringing and fraying his exclusive fabrics, that were dominated by white, bright sandy and black colours.
Hervé Léger by Max Azira, Mara Hoffman, Lacoste, Jill Stuart at NYFW
Third day at the New York Fashion Week brought up a number of remarkable styles. Designer Max Azira showcased his collection of pieces for Hervé Léger with geometrical printed patterns, sharp silhouettes, combined with leather pieces and added zippers. The show was accompanied by strong dynamic drum rhythms and thrilling beats.
Hervé Léger Spring/ Summer 2014
Mara Hoffman Spring/ Summer 2014
Continuing in Lacoste’s efforts to keep a certain contemporary look - Oliveria Baptista created remarkable pieces with a slight touch of sportswear. He sticks to the old image of tennis courts in strong colours such as clay browns, rosy beiges and dusty pastels.
Lacoste Spring/ Summer 2014
Last but not least speaking of Jill Stuart -who opened the show with a high waisted black skirt and a rounded shoulder top - is bringing back the seventies.
Jill Stuart Spring/ Summer 2014
New Mulberry Bayswater Shoulder Bag
It is surely a testament to design when an accessory comes to be a celebrity in itself; sacrosanct and scrutinised by an adoring public, Mulberry’s Bayswater bag is just that – a cult style staple that is at once practical and ever en vogue. Though change is in the air this Fall/Winter, as a handsome adaptation of the label’s dearest descendant is sure to cause quite a stir among disciples and decriers alike.
Effortless and unassuming, the new Bayswater Shoulder bag is very much the cooler, cultured cousin to Mulberry’s iconic original – insouciant and bare but for its enviable quantities of uncalculated chic. Exquisitely crafted leathers case its humble frame, streamlined to its classic and quintessential components. In Autumnal hues of taupe, crimson, plum and midnight blue, the superb grain of the polished skins comes to surface, from grainy calf and goat hides, to tactile lizard prints. Alongside this novel addition to the lineage, is the Bayswater Double Zip Tote; a distinguishable relation to its ancestor, but reworked, this time with an optimised layout, made possible by a zipped compartment layout. All the while, dependably present is the charming motif of the classic Bayswater – or, rather, any Mulberry handbag worth its salt – in the form of its plated postman’s lock – a Royal seal, if ever there were one. Only one element is sure to stay consistent to such a tumultuous collection: it won’t be long before the Bayswater Shoulder is seen to be a pin-up in its own right.
Available online and in stores as part of the Fall/Winter 13 Main Collection
Ralph Lauren to Restore École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts
The École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris has acquired worldwide recognition as an institution to nurse such masters of design as Valentino Garavani and Hubert de Givenchy. Artists, too, have flourished under its coaching, with Degas, Marisse and Monet all walking through its magnificent doors. It's pertinent, then, that one of the greatest designers of our time has pledged to honor its two-year restoration by funding several millions of dollars towards the project.
The campus buildings date back to the 17th century, and house a 90-foot mural by French painter, Paul Delaroche.The historic semicircular lecture theatre that forms the heart of the school will be renovated with stadium-like seating and top-of-the-range audio-visual equiptment. It's cobblestone courtyard, meanwhile, will undergo significant work as part of the plans, which, once completed, will host a gala dinner and Fall/Winter catwalk show by Lauren on October 8th, making his first European show.
Prada Marks 100th Anniversary with Galleria Restoration Project
Setting up shop in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 1913, Mario Prada – father of the legendary fashion house – opened the first of many Prada boutiques under the roof of Milan's most spectacular shopping mall. A neo-classical landmark, the ornate architecture of its breathtaking façade is all part of the romance in the Prada story.
In fitting commemoration to its centenary, Prada plan to reinforce its roots with an extensive restoration of an entire quadrant of the Galleria, opening onto its historic central intersection and adjacent to its current residence. The Prada Galleria was waved in by the launch of a new dedicated menswear store.
At 400m², it occupies not even a tenth of the proposed development, saving room for more sales space, event areas, a restaurant, an exhibition hall for contemporary art under the Prada Foundation and brand headquaters. The ambitious renovation will encompass a thorough reworking of the vicinity, from interior layout to its outer structure, sculpting a complex for culture, business and lifestyle in the heart of the city, and under the magnificent roof of a monumental Milanese fixture.
Claes Iversen Spring/Summer 2014
Known not for its tropical summers, Amsterdam nonetheless delivered a ray of sunshine at this season's fashion week in the form of the Claes Iversen show, inspired by the city's showery climate.
The banana-yellow ouverture said it all: a satirical displacement of a classic's typical context. Hooded macs cropped up throughout the collection, severed and layered or thrown suggestively over bare legs. Raincoats weren't the only pieces to face the chop; hemlines teased, courting thigh and floor with their sheer promiscuity, though tailored cuts and long fitted sleeves translate sensuality into sophistication.
Chiffon singlets were cinched into banded waists, rising as maxi-skirts or breezy palazzos flaring to a splaying umbrella line. All the while lengthy fringes were raining down in washed pastels, hailing unexpected embellishments as erratically as the weather.
Royal Hem Fall/Winter 2013
Cyclewear just got stylish with Royal Hem's Fall/Winter 13 collection, a tribute to London's cult cycle ride and mirthfully named 'Tweed Run', for which contestants take to the pedals in a dress code of traditional British biking attire.
Royal Hem unpick the stitches that form the patchwork of British style; a fusion of sartorial British classicism, French mystique and knife-sharp Italian tailoring, its foreign accents are what steer the aesthetic from costume, to a kind of charisma that is more difficult to define.
Casual stands up to a hit of formality, with Shetland wools and Aran knits layering bow-tied shirts and waistcoats. Plus fours are revived with that eccentric taste for color-clashing that could only get past a British palate, as flecked tweeds and dogtooth checks bicker politely amidst a canvas of ¾ length pants and deconstructed blazers, lined with vintage Penny Farthing prints. Slimline silhouettes streamline with single breasted jackets, while Chesterfield coats are made boxy by shawl collars and patch pockets. Styled with a contemporary hand, however, fedoras and rolled ankle cuffs speak with an audacious London twang.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Spring/Summer 2014
It's not often that a designer can pull off 'sailor' without pieces looking caricatures of their influences. Though that's exactly what Boris Bidjan Saberi has accomplished with his latest Spring/Summer collection. Perhaps that's because his eye has always been close to the source; penned from his seaside workshop, maritime garments find new function in the modern man's wardrobe, pooling in the weather-beaten folds of slouched silhouettes.
Ropey knits in murky off-whites bear the industrial scuffs of hard labour, underwritten by the utilitarian buckled fastenings of cropped life jackets. Waxed cotton sweaters are somehow made unspeakably modern, layering light jerseys and oversized pants etched in grainy graphic prints.
Boat sails are reworked to breathe authenticity into hooded cloaks, their original seams still visible so as not to mask character. Yellow waders and fishermen jackets are tailored to question the possibilities of function, narrated by removable sleeved jackets, adjustable length pants and an integrated backpack vest.
Stripes, too, are redefined, their identity chanellenged as they struggle to keep in line on asymmetric cuts. In a palette of worn whites and greying navy, marine wear, here, evades the obvious by all possible costs.
Laurèl Spring/Summer 2014
Elisabeth Schwaiger creates high quality pieces from leather, silk and jersey. For Laurèl's spring/summer 2014 collection she drew inspiration from Asia's aesthetic language. As a result, the designs are modern, urban and infused with exotic impressions. The color palette for spring/summer 2014 is framed in black and white with a vibrant impressionist print in and strong one-pieces in turqoise or purple. The Asian influence adds a relaxed touch to the smart clothes, which are suitable for all occasions from the office to the beach.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Salon Show Spring/Summer 2014 Green Showroom
Sustainability is growing ever more important in fashion and the green showroom during Berlin Fashion Week provides a platform for sustainable labels. At the salon show 20 brands showcased 54 looks from avant-garde designs to delicate silk dresses and fine blouses as well as all the way to accessories. Among the labels were renowned designers such as Lanius or Elsien Gringhuis and Swiss label Royal Blush by Jana Keller / Johanna Riplinger, who employ plant-based treatments for the leather and organic salmon they use -all made locally. Their collection is simple, reduced and puristic. For a more rock 'n' roll vibe, designer Aleks Kurkowski combines straight forward, avant-garde designs with relaxed urbanity and the essential thought of sustainability. Once again, the show proofed that fashion and awareness can create something beautiful.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg
For the fifth year running, Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and Fashion ID have awarded the 'Designer for Tomorrow' award during MBFWB. As a visible platform for creativity, it gives up- and coming talents the opportunity to present their designs. This year's patron Stella McCartney helped mentor the finalists and gave them advise ahead of their showcase. The five designers were Katy Clark, Jamie Wei Huang and Ioana Ciulacu Miron from the UK as well as Hannah Kuklinski and Annalena Skörl Maul from Germany. With her collection 'Paradox', Ioana Ciulacu Miron took the award. For her it is all about contrasts. Her creations are soft and flowing, appear structured and feminine while simultaneously expressing a masculine strength. A diversity of materials like wool, plastic, chiffon and even plastic foam fuse in quite extraordinary unity. The prints on the pieces kept in subdued color were all hand-drawn by the designer herself. Having won over the jury and the audience, Ioana is 2013's 'Designer for Tomorrow'.
Patrick Mohr Spring/Summer 2014
The injustice of humanity is a tricky subject to broach at the best of times. Through a fashion collection, however, the challenge grows near insurmountable. But where others see impossibility, Patrick Mohr sees an obstacle to be conquered.
The presentation of Mohr's Spring/Summer collection was unorthadox, to say the least. But then again, who could expect anything less? Succinctly entitled Human, the line takes an avant-garde take on couture, fusing with streetwear to evoke the idea that we are all equal.
Beautiful models were made repugnant by beards and monobrows, while society's most marginalised were pushed to the forefront, taking to the stage in Mohr's thought-provoking designs. Disabled, Body-building and transgender mannequins sported baggy printed vests and T-shirts – a tired pair of eyes staring as its sole motif. With unfinished seams, the look was poignantly run-down.
White dresses were magnificently pure; folded crisply and escaping all embellishment, they were a testament to artful restraint. In thick plain bolts, they skirted – even lined the floors, their fantastic immaculacy stripping down an aesthetic to a utilitarian skeleton.
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Fall 2013
Few people do couture like Jean Paul Gaultier. His affinity with provocative excess brands him a soulmate for the season, often shamelessly themed and always a little decadent.
Flamboyance, as custom, knew no bounds – a conclusion that could be made from the very first look, through the chunky tufts of fur and layers of leopard-skin. Hair too, was skinned in spots – statuesque and towering heads brazenly with the callous confidence of a cavewoman.
Color palette made a surreptitiously subdued entrance, but fooled noone into thinking this would be a show made of strictly natural hues. After all, it is Jean Paul Gaultier. While sandy browns kept quiet, inflated shapes made a cacophonous bang – chunky quilting piped volume in lines and tapered pants grew pockets so accommodating they became closer cousins to harems.
Velvets, feathers and furs ran with the raucous sense of feminine pride bestowed by Gaultier, amplified by bejewelling tones of piercing green and electrifying fuchsia. His characteristically crafted impression of the female form, meanwhile, did not go overlooked. Puffa-like piping etched the distinguishing features of the bustier, cinching waists and rounding at the hips, deciding whether to tulip or flare. Lavish it may have been, but limitless it most definitely was.
MALAIKARAISS Spring/Summer 2014
Amidst the hyped New Objectivity, MALAIKARAISS spring/summer 2014 collection found itself between the purism, extravagance and wearability. Pleated collars, asymmetric features and contrasting lining added intrigue to the designs. For next summer, Malaika Raiss played with different length seems, varying textures and see through elements. Her fabrics of choice are silk, soft leather and knit which made for fun pieces such as berry colored leather shorts or an easy, see through maxi dress in light rose.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Fendi for Fountains
Roman by birth, the Fendi fashion house is to pay gratitude to its heritage by funding a major restoration of Rome's ancient fountains, including the Trevi Fountain and the Quattro Fontane complex. Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi has sourced illimitable inspiration from the city, and hope to pay tribute to both its striking beauty and historical identity through the preservation project.
“Rome is eternal, therefore, there is no better place: Rome has changed and has not changed,” said Karl Lagerfeld, who has been head designer and creative director of the brand since 1965, marking the longest collaboration between a designer and fashion house. Lagerfeld, who claims to have visited Rome over 740 times, has also photographed the most iconic fountains of the city, ready to showcase in an exhibition entitled The Glory of Water.
Running from July 4th-14th in Rome's sister city of Paris, the exhibition will be displayed in five domes, symbolic of Rome's iconic cupolas. The Glory of Water is to make history as the largest ever display of daguerreotypes, as fifty prints will exploit the now nearly extinct traditional processing technique. Upheld for its mirror-like realism, daguerreotype printing is now only practiced by 6 master printers around the world, and the history of the technique will make a dedicated feature at the exhibition. The event promises a multi-sensory environment, with photographs accompanied by the music of Vivaldi, contemporary digital compositions and the sounds of the water from the fountains themselves. By the Ponte Alexandre III on the banks of the Seine, its showing will coinside with the opening of Fendi's new boutique, its Maison moving from number 22 to 51 Avenue Montaigne.
The 600m² store was designed with the vision of femininity in mind; bathed in soft bronze lighting, an abundance of rich textures - from velvet and leather to natural stone – form the curves of the space. In tune with Fendi's Roman roots, walls are covered in travertine plates, clad to enhance the height of the vertical structure. The ground floor will host an installation surrounding the iconic Baguette bag, where a wall pierced with 30, 000 bronze needles will display the different styles, representative of the craftsmanship behind their fur pieces. Here too, will be a made-to-order service space, where bags from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag can be customised to a unique specification of colors, leathers and finishes, while the Haute Fourrure room above will allow clients to create bespoke fur items.
Perhaps most exciting about Fendi's contribution to the project, is another kind of restoration, this time of the film Histoire d'Eau by Jacques de Bascher. Shot in 1977 and starring Suzie Dyson, Bascher's eighteen-minute piece gave way to the concept of the fashion film, intended to present Karl Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear and fur collection for Fendi. The story of a young woman who travels to Rome, she bathes in the city's fountains, stowing their water in glass vials. Her parents, meanwhile, believe her to be holidaying at a Spa in Baden-Baden. The last shot depicts the woman transformed into a mannequin, standing in the window of the Fendi boutique – the jars of water drawn from the fountains of Rome lined behind her. And so the restoration gives truth to its name: Rome really is the Eternal City.
SOPOPULAR Spring/Summer 2014
On day one of MBFWB, menswear label SOPOPULAR showcased its latest – by now ninth - collection, titled ‘Black Hole Sun’. 90s music and Japanese architect Tadao served as inspiration for designer Daniel Blechman’s twelve spring/summer 2014 looks. Soundgarden’s 1994 song ‘Black Hole Sun’ - a milestone for grunge - is not just a big inspiration for the designer, but also lends its name to the collection. SOPOPULAR’s silhouette remains classic, with slim cuts and clear lines. Pieces range from slim pants to relaxed shorts, color blocked knits and designs in the ombré look. The color scheme relies on the consistent use of black, white and grey, playing into the distinctive SOPOPULAR aesthetic. One of the highlights is certainly the 3D black-and-white cube print, which can be seen on shirts, shorts and bomber jackets. For spring/summer 2014, Blechman mixes materials such as smooth leather, suede, cotton and viscose. Once again, SOPOPULAR has managed to put forward modern classics, which will outlast seasonal trends.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2014
Thom Browne's spectacular presentations are always a highlight on the menswear calendar and his presentation for spring/summer 2014 was no exception. The collection balanced between the super masculine and the super feminine, the masculine part being the navy with their broad-shouldered and heavy-armed costumes and hats and the feminine in details like laced corset-backs, crinoline hips and lacquered fabrics. There was an air of fetishism in the way the models wore the silhouettes with high heels and red lipstick with a tough attitude. If you want to see them, there were lots of political messages in the collection; maybe gays in the army or the perception of what is feminine or masculine. But above all, these were clothes crafted with immaculate attention to detail and a lot of ideas to distill.
Givenchy Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
It has actually been a few seasons that Riccardo Tisci did the very black and gothic collections that made him famous. Lately he had been much more optimistic; the pre-spring collection was full of flower-prints, for example. This continues for Spring/Summer 2014 in a collection that was inspired by geeks and tribes. Tisci took a trip to L.A. and was obsessed by its skater culture which led him to vintage hi-tech. This goes surprisingly well with his other inspiration, Africa, in a way that some prints were confusing: photo-print of a record-player or a traditional African pattern? Very strong were the printed parkas and the times he used see-through fabrics, like the pants and a flesh-toned jacket (which was actually made of a very new knitting technique). The tribal face painting enforced the influences and the strength of the models/warriors.
Rick Owens Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Out of the darkness, bandmembers arived on the catwalk rather than models at the Rick Owens show. Shortly after came a installation twirling the band's drummers around while performing. The clothing of the collection was in line with this exciting performance with lots of black, leather and strings dancing around the models. Last season, Rick brought his man back to the street and this season he continued this path. The most precise example of that are the sneakers he designed with Adidas, that were finally presented to the public.
Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The great designer of melancholia and poetic sensibility, Ann Demeulemeester, outed a emotional collection full of greatly cut jackets and shorter pants. She started with a couple of white looks delicately embroidered with black patterns. Later on the collection took on colors like dusty pink and dark purple that gave the collection more depth, but never made it heavy. The collection had a victorian air but it was kept modern with light cottons and fluid silks. The models wore subtle black make-up around their eyes to highlight both the rocker and the poet that is the Ann Demeulemeester man.
Marni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer at Marni gave us a touch of the trainspotter; all anoraks and flasher macs – a look which is at once smart and scuffed. Oversized raincoats swamp the pencil-frame lent by slim cigarette pants, with skinny ties elongating yet further. Chelsea boots mark the footprint of '60s London. Come to mention it, the look would not seem altogether out of place were it sported by Jimmy Cooper in Quadrophenia.
Checkerboard shirts – more 2 tone than Mod – tuck half-heartedly into schoolboy shorts, buttoned up neatly to the collar as if in ironic jest. Tailoring is as sharp as it always was on Carnaby Street, still in tonic fabrics but color-blocking makes it current. Print is an alien force, speckled few and far between a line that is squarely minimalist. Marni may have gone back in time to deliver this collection, but pieces sit firmly in the future of Spring/Summer.
Fendi Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Stepping onto scorching sands this Spring/Summer was the heated pace of Fendi. A duned setting helped to lay the tone, though the arid designs spoke for themselves.
Sunset yellow drove full-throttle, terracotta as deep as desert sand belted tightly in the passenger seat. In the shades afforded by the powdered dyes of the East, vibrancy permiated in blocks – though speckled paint stains told of their source.
Fabrics befitted the sweltering heat, in airy yet endurable weights. Jackets, meanwhile, puckered and glossed like roasted leather. Tailoring remained subdued; in sandy camel hues, slim-fit fought the oversized elements, with the aforementioned ultimately winning. Co-ordinated pieces jarred ever so slightly, as scratchy straw checks weren't quite in tune. Piled together, the look is undoubtedly eclectic. Standalone, however, each piece simply blazes in the summer sun.
Vivienne Westwood Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
So the spirit of the libertine made it onto the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood - what else is new? Perhaps a topical political statement will suffice. The heart of the collection’s theme, Truth, was not just worn on its sleeves, but rather fully emblazoned sandwich-board style across the chest. Printed T-shirts carried a stencilled impression of uniformed soldier Bradley Manning, an alleged source to the WikiLeaks scandal. Not worlds apart in style from the emblematic image of Che Guevara, both icon and models who bore it donned berets fit for battle. The medium may have been subtle, but the message was strong.
Westwood, by her very nature, likes to shine a light on the side-lined. All the while being radical, the line was designed to cater to the eclectic tastes of the bohemian traveller; think breathable linens and a penchant for print. Heritage checks fused with harems, but just when you thought designs were headed for tradition, pieces would throw out a host of contradictions. Silk cummerbunds were swapped for boxer-bearing jean, and neckerchiefs dressed up but deconstruction tore down: vive la revolution, vive Westwood.
Mulberry Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Can Mulberry help but conjure a wonderfully whimsical campaign? With Tim Walker in tow, it would be foolish to expect anything otherwise. Oxfordshire's Shotover House provided the aristocratic setting, made all the more magical by the other half of Walker's imagination: set designer Shona Heath.
Framed by a typically period setting, doll's house trimmings are the perfect partner for the porcelain features of model Cara Delevigne – a quality only further accentuated by her stoic air.
Crooked branches creep eerily into frame – a homely haunt for the wildlife of the woodland – tipped by shrinking buds and starkly bare twigs. Camel and oxblood take preppy cuts, reflected by its Oxfordshire setting. Leather and black stir a sombre concoction, whilst all-white puritan shapes radiate with a deceptively angelic snowy gleam. Played out to its sole spectators, the story is cloaked in supple merlot leather, like a faded fairytale.
Only walker could make innocence so haunting; only Mulberry could dress the tone.
Happy Birthday Hugo
Counting twenty years of avant-garde design this summer is the German diffusion line, HUGO. Born in 1993 to the Hugo Boss group, HUGO has come into its own as a pioneer of trends, looked to for trailblazing design in finely focussed cuts.
To mark the occasion, HUGO is hosting a summer-long celebration at the Saatchi Gallery in London, in the form of its exhibition, Red Never Follows. From July 21st to September 1st, twenty inspiring creators and inventors will present their artworks under the exhibition. From interactive multimedia installations to unflinching street art, this diverse showcase of creativity will mark two decades of innovation by HUGO.
Also honoring the anniversary is the launch of an exclusive retrospective collection of 20 signature HUGO designs. Pieces set to feature in the capsule line include the red woman suit, a bicolor man shirt and limited edition ‘90s style headphones, and will be premiered at Galeries Lafayette in Paris from September 2nd, before going live online and in the Champs-Elysées flagship store.
Jil Sander Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
How does Jil Sander manage to fill a blank page without actually penning any ink? Clinical whites were taken to their logical conclusion with the very first look – white coat and all. Save the neon-light glow of luminous piping – a scant sight stolen from a chance flash of lining – whistle clean sterility dictates. The signature Sander classic – the starched white shirt – is a consistent throughout, seeing character alternate schizophrenically between sportswear and futurism.
Lacquered swing coats shine with a bleachy gleam, despite orange and pink flirting luridly against the chaste wishes of white. Longline shorts peep from knitwear, making a play for tailoring, while parachute-style silks take windbreaker sillhouettes, tapered in to an elasticated waist. Tarnished plaids sully a pristine reputation with dirty grays, and scribbled prints downright deface. Silhouette, nonetheless, retains its streamlined shape til the bitter end, with a form that cages and contains graphic's wayward spirit.
Tom Ford Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Inverted florals adorning raw silk jackets makes for a slick wardrobe in anyone's books. When such designs are penned by Tom Ford, however, they enter a league of their own. Hawaiian prints played out on slim-fit tuxedo pants and tassel loafers slipped into cheetah skin: Ford's collection bought into the philosophy of the single statement piece, treading only the perimeters that skate the treacherous ground of layering; busy motifs can vie for the attention of everyone, and win the affection of no-one.
But with a pronounced tongue, luridness can translate to luxury. Ankle grazing slacks wink to modern day suave, while an iridescent sheen gives the fully-fledged nod. Beneath opulent blazers, staples veer anywhere between deep V-neck cuts and sky-high turtlenecks, with the classic shirt signposting the dependable middle ground of snappy dressing. A slick wardrobe then? Tom Ford brings new meaning to the term.
London Collections: Men - Day 2
Driving round two of London Collections: Men was a sherbert-sweet sense of summer. Doused in pastels, Richard James gave us soft and simple tailoring, with stand-out espidrilles the only statement piece against a refreshed line of loyal staples.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone, too, presented pared-down pieces, as anoraks and fishing hats echoed the loutish slur of the nineties britpop scene. Katie Eary's graduated prints bought hues to daze in eye-sore orange and fuchsia pink, deep from which jungle skins and flocked flamingos swarm to hypnotise.
Graphic print reigned supreme at Christopher Kane and Sibling, with co-ordinated two pieces obeying a form that is strictly streamlined. Kane's electrifying palette and symmetrical motifs reflected the digital age, whereas Sibling's mix of sportswear and gridlock knits in early nineties lilacs stirred a soup of all-American references, when cliques collided and shared wardrobes. KTZ usurped Arabian silhouettes with a collage of dizzying print; ying and yang motifs, candy stripes and map prints cloaked bodies in draping lengths, with the menace of slogans reading “Poison” and “Terror” made all the more tangible by studded spike accessories.
True to form, Alexander McQueen delivered classical ceremony with typically macarbre undertones, as worn scalloped lace and frayed jaquard were a nod to lost nobility. J.W. Anderson, however, waved the flag for conceptual design. Bold, basic shapes were contorted and displaced, stomachs bared and shoulders constricted in an almost straight-jacket style – a shining example of London's progressive eye. It was Martine Rose, however, who hosted the show that was London incarnate: strewn about a showspace kitted out to enact an unkempt living room, sunblushed graphic tees and scuffed denim set the tone of the collection. Wigged male models lounged on upholstered sofas, flicking through tabloids in white wide-legged pants – not defined by subscription to gender, Rose's proved for a surreal show, to say the least. Only in London...
Alexander McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
From beneath the redundant railway arches of Kings Cross came a vision in white. All lace and pallid skin bought something of the modern day beau to London yesterday. At once sharply-suited and undone, stiffly starched collars poked their wings from wrinkled silk, as knuckle-grazing cuffs second-guessed the astute dressing of the dandy. Mary Janes, meanwhile, trod the industrial cobblestones with a distrinctly feminine authority, blurring the boundaries which fashion gender with Regency resonance.
Distressed knits layered shell-structured tees, webbing ivories into a monochrome scheme. Silhouette remained true to tradition, with only subtle shake-ups to conventional tailoring; casual pieces flirted with heritage, while sleeves were sheered to bare arms in a twist to challenge formality.
Embelishment, on the other hand, was an altogether modest affair, overruled by the mixing of minimalist pieces in a playful repertoire of lengths. Nonetheless, when print was on the cards, it truly made its presence known. Jacquard flocks and candy stripes were unabashedly busy, evoking layer upon layer of peeling wallpaper – only to be understated by Sarah Burton's stripped-down interpretations of the plain black suit.
LVMH presents Les Journées Particulières
If curiosity ever proves too much to bear, Les Journées Particulières may go some way to satisfying that thirst for knowledge – just the tonic for an inquiring mind. Following its successful launch in 2011, this weekend's program of events serve an art and design initiative conducted by luxury brand group and patron, LVMH.
Through Saturday and Sunday, houses under the LVMH umbrella will leave their doors open to the public accross 42 European sites. The Ateliers of Kenzo, Dior and Louis Vuitton – to name but a few – will impart ticketholders with a rare glimpse of their creative environments, providing behind-the-scenes insight to the work of craftsmen and artisans.
From couture to cosmetics, watches to wine, Les Journées Particulières hosts an extensive array of workshops to cater to all trades. With open-houses in six countries, the celebration will surely be far-reaching, enlightening and simply unmissable.
Les Journées Particulières runs from June 15-16th at various venues.
Replay Spring/Summer 2014
More than a splash of beach style made its way onto the Replay's Spring/Summer catwalk for the 2014 season. In fact, the Urban Surf collection was awash with sun and surf pop – a perfect postcard of the Hawaiian shores.
The free-spirit of the surfer shines in the design of the Replay Blue Jeans line, whose bleached tones speak of saltwater-drenched and sun-dried carelessness. Loose fit and unfinished edges render Men's and Women's styles characteristically cool, as rolled-up cuffs reveal ankles and attitude. Laserblast denim lies at the heart of the hippie vibe. Eco-friendly and low impact, skinny, boyfit, biker and carrot cuts are a reaction to responsible youth culture. Nostalgic femininity is plucked straight from Venice Beach, when broderie anglaise confronts cold-dyed leather. Meanwhile, fringed T-shirts and are taken from day to night, when cargo jackets are swapped for stone studs and sequins. Menswear, too, is distinctly understated. Oversized T-shirts are aged by texture, as crinkled fabrics appear blushed by the sun, while biker sleeves reinterpret the nylon bomber.
Vibrant hues make waves when palm-print takes the form of macro print and batik. Neoprene mini dresses and mesh knits steal structure from scuba, applying exposed zips and stitching as a playful final point of reference.
Roberto Cavalli: Psychotic Love
Sometimes hysteria can get the better of us. For fans of Roberto Cavalli, the launch of the label's newest accessory may explain that neurosis. Psychotic Love is a short film for the brand, and a tale of one woman’s delirious obsession: her Hera bag. Sensational viewing is the least to be expected, shot by the lens of Diego Diaz Marin - whose photographic work is both wonderfully erratic and eccentric – Psychotic Love does not disappoint.
Through a spellbinding spectrum of kaleidoscopic colour, the woman’s state of torturous infatuation culminates in the moment she surrenders to her mania. Walking out out on her life, she abandons everything she owns - everything but her beloved Hera bag.
Fall madly in love with the Hera bag when it hits the shelves later this month.
Strellson to launch REFINED Edition
Swiss fashion label Strellson are to launch its premium Fall/Winter 2013 collection this August. The REFINED Edition is set to weave together classic and contemporary styles, through reinterpreted heritage fabrics and timeless design. Herringbone and broken twill are given relavance in the digital age, as stretch technology lends practicality to sartorial fashion. Expect updated takes on the typical Strellson sillhouette, with a capsule line of trousers, shirts, jackets, coats and accessories all in a palette of grey. Horn-rimmed glasses set off the look with astute attention to detail, while real horn buttons denote the modern man's taste for tradition.
The REFINED Edition will be available from Strellson shops internationally and online from August 2013.
One Night Only Roma by Giorgio Armani
Tonight Giorgio Armani will unveil a new 900 square-meter boutique in the heart of Rome's luxury shopping district, Via Condotti. Spread over three floors, the boutique is one of only two exclusive Giorgio Armani stores to offer a dedicated area where customers can order custom-made haute couture accessories.
To celebrate, the label are staging a grand opening, One Night Only Roma, at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome, where catwalk shows will present new versions of the Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani fall/winter collections. The venue will also premier the Eccentrico exhibition – open to the public from June 6th - 9th – and will showcase an exquisite retrospective of Giorgio Armani designs dating back from 1985.
Full coverage of the event will be streamed online on their dedicated website from 9pm on June 5th. In the days leading up to the event, a new interactive website has paid tribute to both the brand and the city of Rome with a live countdown, previews of the opening and exclusive video interviews with Giorgio Armani himself.
Fred Perry 60 Years auction
As part of the 60 Years anniversary of Fred Perry, the brand has compiled a list of their most loyal and distinguished fans and invited them to personalize a 1952 reproduction shirt. 60 shirts have been individually customized with special birthday messages and unique designs as part of the charity fund raising exercise.
From 30th May to 21st July, each of the customised shirts will be available as part of a special online auction in aid of the Amy Winehouse Foundation. The foundation has been set up in Amy's memory to prevent the effects of drug and alcohol misuse on young people and aims to support, inform and inspire vulnerable and disadvantaged young people to help them reach their full potential. The first 15 shirts will go for sale on Ebay on May 30th for a period of ten days and includes customisations from Sister by Sibling, Raf Simons, Bradley Wiggins, Damon Albarn, Exactitudes, Jamie Reid, Neville Brody and Inez & Vinoodh.
The shirts can be bid on from now at www.fredperry.com/60-years-gallery
J.W. Anderson for Versus Versace
When it was announced some months back that Jonathan Anderson was invited by Donatella Versace to design a capsule collection for Versace, opinions were both in doubt and in awe. In some ways, the two aesthetics could not be further apart. Jonathan's brand J.W. Anderson is known for it's rigourous and boxy cuts and unisex approach. Versace obviously likes to keep its clothing as close to the body for it's sexually agressive and confident man and woman. But on another level, the brands have a similarity that can not be denied; J.W. Anderson is heavily influenced by the nineties-era and that period was, of course, Gianni Versace's initial heyday.
That tension is clearly visible in the collection presented wednesday in New York. Andersons personal influences were the austere and graphic pieces like cropped tops and skirts with high slits on both legs. J.W. Andersons latest menswear collection was all about ruffles, short hems and knee-high boots. That unisex-feeling returned in this Versus-collection as the clothes didn't change that much for him or her. The Versus-man is as confident in a croped and sliced top as his female counterpart. When the Versace-trademarkt made their appearance in the collection, it added extra depth to the collection with signature gold buttons, lace and safety-pins. The collection, reminiscent of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Versace himself, celebrated the nineties. But most of all, it was the result of an balanced joining of forces, in which both parties had an equal voice.
Stella McCartney joins Designer for Tomorrow
Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf is proud to announce that Stella McCartney is the new patron for their annual talent award Designer for Tomorrow. Since its initiation in 2009, the fashion award is yearly given away during the Berlin Fashion Week, giving young talent the chance to be discovered and providing them with a creative platform.
With Marc Jacobs as the patron of the project for the last two years, Peek & Cloppenburg found a worthy successor in Stella McCartney. She will be part of the whole process of finding the next winner of the fashion design competition. The first step of the process will be reviewing every application sent in from all over Europe and for McCartney to select her favourite ten designers. Along with an expert jury board, she will view the presentation of the finalists' collections in Berlin in May 2013. Ultimately then they will decide on a winner, who will present his collection at the Berlin Fashion Week and receive the fashion award's grant.
Jimmy Choo at London Collections: Men
It's a first for Jimmy Choo! In previous years the fashion brand always presented their menswear collection in Milan, but in June 2013 the men's collection will make its debut in London for the first time.
The Spring/Summer collection 2014 will surely be a great addition to the third installment of the London Collections: Men, which will take place from the 16th til the 18th of June.
To fully win over the hearts of the fashionable Londoners, Jimmy Choo will also be opening a flagship store in Dover Street in the beginning of May.
Window Displays at Lanvin Paris
Inspired by the prints of Alber Elbaz’ Lanvin Winter/Fall 2013-14 collection, the window displays at the Lanvin Paris store are currently filled with hundreds of butterflies. Swarms of fluttering creatures are suspended in mid-air surrounding the still mannequins, they seem to defy gravity.
The shapes of the butterflies give a playful notion and their elegant black colour is a contrast to the white skin of the mannequins as well as the Parisian creme stone walls found at 22 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Flying through doorways, out of fireplaces and old-fashioned record-players the butterflies are attracted to Lanvin garments like bees are attracted to honey. The mannequins seem surprised by the sudden appearance of the butterflies, there’s nothing left to do but to hold on to those gorgeous Lanvin handbags and be careful not to take a tumble in those wonderful heels.
The Surf Shack by Tommy Hilfiger
When surf culture emerged in America in the 60s, it was about much more than just the sport. It created a new direction in music and fashion - in fact, a whole new lifestyle still embraced by surfers around the world today. That surf culture inspired Tommy Hilfiger to create Surf Shack, a limited-edition capsule collection to accompany his spring/summer 2013 collection.
Tommy Hilfiger normally takes a fresh and young approach to classic American apparel. Surf Shack manages to create a crossover between preppy and laid back, resulting in surf sophistication. The 12 womenswear and 16 menswear pieces are made of summery fabrics like chambray and feature bold prints and neon colors. The beach apparel, swimwear, footwear, sunglasses, watches and bags are ideal from sunrise to sunset on a hot summer's day.
Tommy Hilfiger has also collaborated with the Art Production Fund again to invite five contemporary artists to design five unique surfboards. They will be available in selected Tommy Hilfiger stores from April 15, once the in-store installations of sandy beaches are complete.
Human Made X Coca-Cola
The Japanese designer NIGO® launched his new capsule collection inspired by vintage Coca-Cola. The capsule collection is released under his newest label’s name – Human Made. The new line of menswear takes its inspiration from iconic work wear from the 20th century. A wide grey sweater with the old-fashioned Coco-Cola logo in a blazing red, a cap with stripes and simple white T-Shirts with prints of the coke bottles remind of the days, when Coca-Cola was brand new and everybody raved about that new fizzy drink.
Fun fact behind the collection: The designer owns a personal collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia including a red retro leather jacket from his high school days. He was also the Japan Coca-Cola yo-yo champion back in the 80s and awaited this collection for a long time.
The capsule collection is a collaboration with one of Japan’s fanciest boutiques, Beams. The collection is solely available at Beams surrounded by fitting decor like a neon light script of the Coca-Cola logo and a red vintage metal box filled with the classic coke glass bottles.
The new Crash by Chanel
by Rachel Marie Walsh
No, this timepiece isn’t a cut-out from Dali’s The Persistence of Memory. This is Cartier’s re-edition of the 'Crash' watch, a design originally produced for the brand’s UK boutiques in 1967. Cartier London was an independent company at the time and the melted-looking bezel is as reminiscent of Carnaby Street hipsters as it is surrealist art. In fact, the design was inspired by the broken watch of a Cartier London customer who’d been in a car accident. In the heat of the wreckage, his oval-shaped Cartier Bagnoire Alongée had stretched and warped, yet managed to remain elegant.
Company head Jean-Jacques Cartier was so intrigued by this “survivor” that he put it into production. Cartier liked the irreverence of the shape, especially contrasted against the technical perfection and precise construction of what lay beneath. Over the years, Crash watches from the 60s and 70 - all signed “London” unlike the signature "Paris" for modern watches - have increased significantly in value. One can see the appeal: something that is both luxurious yet which has endured the extreme.
This season, the Crash is available as a ladies dress watch in four models, each with bracelets comprised of drops of white or pink gold and gem-set bezels. One particularly exquisite style has a bracelet covered with brilliant-cut diamonds. In reference to the year it was created, only 267 Crash watches have been produced. An underground classic for true connoisseurs of Cartier.
Dior at Harrods
Inspired by Christian Dior’s love for the British culture, the luxury fashion house just launched their collaboration with Harrods, one of the most renowned British department stores. The windows in Brompton Road display an exclusive collection of accessories, which bring French elegance and British charm together. The traditional Dior colours of white and grey are combined with red leather and tartan pattern for this special occasion. Apart from garments, handbags – including new designs of the ‘Lady Dior’ bag – and jewellery, the range of items also includes little snowglobes displaying the ‘New Look’ and teddy bears with the Dior logo.
The histories of Dior and Harrods are already interlinked. In 1954, Monsieur Dior not only attended a Dior fashion at Harrods, but also inaugurated the Harrods Fashion Theatre. To celebrate this occasion, every customer who visits the legendary department store until April 14th will be able to the enjoy a unique Dior experience. The fourth floor is transformed into a Dior wonderland, where the customers will be reminded of the all-time greatest designs of Dior with the essence of J’Adore wafting through the air. The Café Dior in style of Dior’s favourite 18th century decor caters for some delicious cupcakes and lobster club sandwich to enjoy during well-deserved shopping breaks.
Don’t miss out on your chance to visit the special Dior experience at Harrods! It is located at 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London.
Gucci Chime For Change
Chime for education. Chime for health. Chime for justice. To empower women all around the world and to strengthen women’s right is the aim of Gucci's new project Chime For Change. The campaign was just launched at the TED 2013 and its spokeswomen are Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini, singer Beyoncé Knowles-Carter and actress Salma Hayek Pinault.
To bring together and unite voices defending girls and women from all over the world is the way how to achieve change. Via social media platforms such as Twitter or Facebook everyone’s voice can be heard. “There is no innocent bystander in the information age,“ says Salma Hayek Pinault at the TEDxWomen Luncheon. Social media offers the opportunity for anybody to become active and push positive social change forward.
While in many countries women still struggle for basic human rights,
Chime For Change is not only raising awareness about said topic, but also cooperates with the social change makers of Catapult. Catapult is a crowdfunding platform to better and further the living conditions of girls and women, representing over 50 organisations in 38 countries. It will link Chime For Change members to charity projects they can participate in and donate to.
The Nigerian women's rights activist Hafsat Abiola left the women at the luncheon with a hopeful and motivating statement: “Let us stand in solidarity with each other in our common struggle for a better world and step by step, not over night, but step by step we will change the way that the world sees women and treats women.“
Get involved and encourage change on the official website of Chime For Change:
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2013-14
It was the second season designed by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. His Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection spread a youthful vibe and grunge feel inside the Grand Palais and continued where the runway show of his menswear collection had left off. In a way it was a surprise how he went through with his idea of bringing back 90s grunge yet again, but the designs themselves looked familiar and were all the less shocking.
It was like going back and searching through a punk teen’s closet. The collection displayed what the find of that search could look like – oversized vintage cardigans, plaid men’s shirts, sequined sweater dresses, duffle coats, cut off jeans skirts, floaty flowery dresses, biker leather jackets, black lace slip dresses, furry coats with leopard patterns and rebellious leather bustiers bearing it all.
The list could go on and on. The collection’s variety of garments was remarkable, but nothing looked quite new. The garments were all worn with fishnet tights and bulky leather boots. The show almost left the audience in puzzled disbelief, when the light darkened after the last dress on the runway had been an unusual girly peter pan collar dress with a flowery pattern. However, the show still got a strong finish with a mass of models in tight leather dresses walking down the runway like a mob of punk rock chicks.
Kenzo Fall/Winter 2013-14
The Kenzo Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection goes back to the roots of the Japanese fashion brand creating an exciting mix between traditional and modern shapes. The designer duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim stay true to the Japanese heritage of the label with shapes that resemble kimonos and traditional Japanese robes. Jumpers with wide sleeves, asymmetric cuts, tight trousers, kimono-like belted wool jackets, a variety of skirts and flowy floor-length silk dresses are the collection’s essential designs.
Various prints are also a key to the Fall/Winter collection. Either inspired by Asian patterns or featuring geometric designs, there is a whole range of different patterns. One of the most dominat ones is the a pattern that featured a print of a great number of eyes, which seemed to be staring at the watching crowds.
The first colours to appear on the runway were glamorous tones of gold, black and a bright red, then a number of light blue garments followed, the red reappeared in cornflower-blue patterns, while the collection ended with a splash of orange.
Camper Spring/Summer 2013
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Nothing was what it seemed on Bernhard Wilhelm’s Spring/Summer catwalk, what with the crazily-patterned grunge-chic and models in futuristic afros and foil masks. Then again, one of the designer’s long-term mantras is “chaos is beautiful.”
The shoes were a perfect match, in a blindingly clashing kind of way. Wilhelm's seasonal collaboration with Camper combines wild animal prints with chunky, unexpected soles and natural materials like cork. Conformity and provocation co-exist with a humorous disdain for the plain, as he pushes the boundaries of conventional footwear to create shocking shapes.
Since Wilhelm set up his brand (together with Jutta Kraus) in 1999, the Ulm, Germany-born designer has refused to be swayed by success. He continues to create an imaginative and wonderfully lunatic world playfully projected onto the Spanish brand’s footwear.
The stand-out shoes for women were zebra-print sandals with wildly outsized soles. With ankle-high upper and thong construction, these shoes are both a sandal and a boot, available as a flat or with the on-trend cylindrical heel. Both are lined with leather and rubber. The flagship sneaker for men and women is reinvented with neon camouflage or zebra and Dalmatian-print in black and white monochrome. The soles are boosted with sculpted, zigzag rubber inserts in contrasting colors. All are crazy-cool, just the way Campers should be.
Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14
Images of a forest were the backdrop for the Marni Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show, which showed black silhouettes of bald trees and soft light that reminded of a sunrise on a crisp morning in fall. Tall trees towered around the audience's seats and displayed the romantic beauty of nature.
The garments were a symbol for romanticisim stripped down to the very bare essentials. The varied usage of fur was one of the collection's key elements. It was fur of all colours and of all kinds – shiny, fluffy, astrakhan. Furry stoles accompanied bandeau tops and wide pants, fur collars added a finishing touch to coats and even gloves as well as boots' main material was fur. Oversized coats and blazers accentuated clear cuts with diagonal zippers as details. Skirts of dresses were slashed, giving away a view on delicate underlying mesh fabrics. Leather jackets and dresses added a feel of casual coolness, while the romantic theme of nature returned in the collection's prints of trees and abstract flower patterns.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
With this Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Miuccia Prada paid tribute to designs she personally liked. Unusual to Prada, it was a very personal approach to creating fashion. Flared coats with round buttons and knee-length skirts with asymmetric cuts were key pieces of the collection. Essential was also the accentuation of sleeves and their puffy look with either pleats or furry details.
The theme of gingham check of Prada's menswear was continued in the womenswear collection. Playful coats in white, light pink and soft blue as well as colourful weekend bags and shoppers were made out of checkered fabrics. Yet the feel of this collection was more mysterious than its menswear counterpart. Dresses and coats were slightly unbuttoned, zippers of jackets and skirts slightly unzipped. Necklines from shoulder free to V-neck were revealing a layered styling and the tender skin of the models. Fine brown crocodile leather as well as shiny gold and silver patent leather added a little more glamour to the collection, as if the dresses covered in black sequins and the luxurious fur coats were not enough.
The models with wet hair look walked their choreographed path accross the runway with sophistication and silhouettes of seducing women and straying cats were projected onto the walls. The inspiration to this Prada collection might have been more emotional than usual, but it still displayed perfection in every garment.
Machine-A Store Opening
13 Brewer Street just became the new London home of fashion store Machine-A. After months of preparation store owner Stavros Karelis and stylist Anna Trevelyan finally celebrated their store opening. “We're open! Come say hi!” says Machine-A's facebook page in all caps and invites new visitors to come and have a look at the new shop.
It's the store's aim to promote skilled designers and to support the uprising talents of tomorrow from the London as well as the international design scene. Besides the garments of designers such as Raf Simons, Agi & Sam, Chalayan, Louise Grey and Nashir Mazhar, the store will also offer a variety of accessories. One of the store's current treasures is the Fred Butler X Swatch watch. With many more interesting pieces to be offered by the store, a bright future lies ahead for Machine-A.
Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2013-14
The atmosphere of the Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show reminded of Russia in the beginning of the 20th century. Black caps and furry hats were worn by the models and they looked like they were part of the movie classic Doctor Zhivago.
The collection didn't really settle on one certain look and had many different facettes to it. Another theme that reappeared was that of sailor and navy wear with designs that resembled captain's jackets. The runway show started off with preppy ruffle blouses and bows, cableknit jumpers and turtlenecks, duffle capes and well-fitted coats, wide pants and flared high-waisted trousers, floor-length ruffled skirts and A-line leather ones – all in black and white.
Then came a series of colourful velvet dresses with puffy sleeves and clever details created by gathering of fabric. The velvet garments in red, purple, blue and green were accossorized with tapestry bags and paired with brown, black as well as grey cropped and longtail blazers. But the collection wouldn't be complete if it didn't end with a number of glamorous gowns. From creme tulle to deep red taffets dresses, from black gowns with leather pleats to blue velvet dresses with bejewelled necks, the variety of gowns vowed the audience and got them up their feet to end the show with standing ovations.
The Unfolder 7 by Alexandre Vauthier
This is it. The Unfolder 7. The first bag ever to be designed by Alexandre Vauthier. While the fashion brand marks its fourth year in existence, this is the first accessory by the French designer. It's the cherry on top accompanying the garments of the current collection.
The square and slim structure of the bag looks classic, yet modern. The same effect is achieved by its materials of lambskin and crocodile leather as well as the golden metal chain and details. The versatile bag can be worn as a clutch or across the shoulder, just as one pleases. So it's an ideal companion for a night out, but just as much for a relaxed day in town.
Happy Birthday, Dior!
It's a birthday to celebrate! 66 years ago on a snowy day in Paris the very first collection of Dior Haute Couture was revealed. The 12th of February 1947 became a date that marks a pivotal day in fashion history.
To the astonishment of the fashion show's audience feminine dresses and the typical defined high waist showed of the female body. No longer were those models hiding in their bodies in unflattering clothes of the war-time. Femininity made a comeback and the Parisians audience as well as women and men all around the world were admiring the Dior Haute Couture collection.
On the same day a second new thing was introduced to the world: Dior's first ever perfume. The smell of Miss Dior was everywhere in the rooms of Avenue Montaigne No. 30, where the fashion show was taking place hinting that the new look of a woman was not only about what she wore, but about her overall presence.
Closed Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign by Closed has a young and fresh feel to it. The 16-year old German model Esther Heesch is accompanied by Swedish model Lingus Gustin, whose aethestics fit well together.
The couple was photographed by Benjamin Alexander Huseby against a clear blue sky and all of the photographs seem to be in soft and light colours. The garments look casual and range from thin jeans and chambray shirts to light white cotton trousers. A matching video clip by Jonas Lindström shows the young models diving into a pool, splashing water and glistening water surfaces as well as the two of them looking up into the sunlight and open sky. It is full of symbols for freedom and the love of being independent. As new as the campaign is, so is the design of the Closed website. Following through with the simple black logo on a white background it got a makeover and is now ready for summer to come. A nice feature is the display of all the different key looks with pictures of tiny models, who seem to move around their frames freely.
Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Provocations is the title of Calvin Klein’s Spring 2013 ad campaign and its star is Alexander Skarsgard. The Swedish actor most known for his role as1000-year old vampire in HBO’s True Blood appears alongside the Finnish model Suvi Koponen.
The Scandinavian couple is hot and sweaty wearing tight jeans in one scene, staring coldly at each other dressed in chic suits in the next. The entire campaign contains contrasting elements: Roaring fire in contrast to still black water surfaces. Modern symmetric architecture as the complete opposite of a shabby room furnished with an old TV set. Slow motion effects are used throughout the whole 10-minute clip, making fire explosions and the shattering of glass walls even more spectacular. The tiniest turquois glass splinters seem to be floating weightlessly through the air.
Each segment of the ad campaign has a different title: Part III. is entitled Wasting Time with Koponen daydreaming and chilling on the floor in a pair of skinny jeans. End Game is the name of another part with Skarsgard wearing a white suit and slowly lighting a match while staring at Koponen across the room. The campaign promotes garments, jeans and accessories by Calvin Klein all at the same time. The director of the film is Fabien Baron.
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer 2013 campaign was recently revealed: It stars none other than Kate Moss, Westwood’s husband Andreas Kronthaler and Dame Vivienne Westwood herself with her signature fiery mane. German photographer Juergen Teller shot the campaign in the Viennese museum for historic art.
It features garments of the Gold Label as well as pieces from the menswear and accessories line. The backdrop of the ornate golden frames, religious and antique oil paintings contrasts the rebellious feel of the collection and the provocative attitude of the campaign’s protagonists.
G-Star RAW Fall/Winter 2013-14
Acoustic guitar sounds and a blue backlight fill the dark room when a ballerina enters with tiny steps on pointe shoes. After performing some steps of the Dying Swan solo, she throws away her belted coat revealing a tight bodysuit and trying to break conventions. One sentence is glaring from the screen behind her: The Art of Raw.
The G-Star Raw Fall/Winter 2013-14 runway show in Berlin integrated various art forms in making it a unique performance. The new icon of G-Star Raw is film star Michael Madsen, ending the show by reading a poem with his raspy voice and roaring into the microphone.
A huge variety of outerwear is presented by the models: quilted coats, hooded capes, belted and double breasted jackets. Denim is used in a lot of varied ways – for example as the lining of a jacket. Camouflage patterns, utility shorts, aviator sunglasses and caps as well as badges covering the boys’ jackets give the collection a military feel.
A.P.C. Berlin Store Opening
After expanding world-wide with stores in major cities such as Tokyo, New York City and Hong Kong A.P.C. is returning to Berlin to open yet another store in the German capital. It will be the second store in Berlin and the expenditure can be traced back to the designer's love of the vibrant city. Jean Touitou has even contemplated moving his studio and atelier from Paris to Berlin.
Touitou worked together with architect Laurent Deroo on the refurbishment of the shop in Fasanenstrasse 22. It will carry A.P.C.'s men and women line, jeans and accessories. The opening celebration is taking place on January 31st from 18.00 til 21.00 hrs.
Prada Fall/Winter 2013-14
A domestic setting became the scenery of Prada's menswear Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. A furnished house with modern designs and pristine clean furniture by the designer team AMO was the setting. Cubic chairs and glass tables were decorated with lonely fruit bowls, electronic gadgets, plants and vases. The "ideal house".
Fittingly the collection seemed familiar and homely. Gingham shirts untucked under compfy, but high quality sweaters and ankle length trousers are the key pieces of the collection. Ruffled shirts are worn underneath short checked jackets and long coats with velvet collars. Shiny brown and black leather brogues with thick spiky soles add the final touch.
The boys with the fringe haircut and their big sunglasses as well as bright coloured leather jackets seem like they just time traveled in from the 70s. Casually they walk from one door frame to the next one, entering one room after another. Miuccia Prada returns to classicism and simplicity with her collection. Less is more it is.
Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
For the Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2013 the Parisian Grand Palais was transformed into a forest: It seemed like tall trees had grown out of the floor surrounding a beautiful amphitheatre overlooking the whole scenery. On a winding path the models made their way through the forest looking stunningly elegant – in thigh high boots out of silver leather or toeless delicate lace.
Through the whole collection an accent on the the neck and the shoulders can be seen. Necklines below the shoulders show a bare neck as a sign of pure and gracile beauty, but square applications on the shoulders and upper arms give the upper body a contrary strong look. Long sequin covered gowns, tulle and lace hems are essential parts of the collection as well. While the show started off with fabrics such as tweed and bouclé, the show finishes of with dresses made of thousands of feathers complementing the feathery hairpieces of the models and the birdsong heard among the trees.
The presentation of the wedding dress makes a clear statement about the ongoing disputes concerning the legalization of gay marriage in France. Only two weeks back hundreds of thousands of people demonstrated near the Eiffel Tower opposing gay marriage, but yesterday two models in the same wedding dress were holding each other's hands while walking down the runway. Lagerfeld's godson accompanied both of them and gave expression to the designer's thoughts on gay marriage and gay parents raising children.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Paris Fashion menswear week started last wednesday and one of the first houses to present their collection was Valentino, who moved the menswear from Italy to France. The Valentino man's new house is the prestigious Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, where the Valentino Haute Couture woman also lives. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are known for experimenting with material. In this collection, which was London-inspired, they found a way to heat-bond leather to other materials, a technique they picked up during their background in accessories. Broad bands of leather were applied to coats and capes in navy and black. An oversized pied-de-poule motif was printed with the same technique on a smaller version for a trench coat, being both graphic and subtle.
As much as Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo like to push things forward, their menswear never crosses the fine line into fashionable jibber-jabber. Capes, normally considered not the most wearable pieces for men, looked rather relevant. Sharp suits were spiced up with a scarf in cashmere and fur that are attachable to the button of a jacket, as a modern reference to the formal scarf worn with tuxedos. The notion of shadow has been a recurring theme in Valentino's vocabulary of today, and was noticeable in the combination of black and navy and the 'double revers', a darker patch of silk under the lapels. Recurring details like the camouflage, this time in black and grey, and studs, can not be considered as seasonal trends anymore but are part of Valentino's staples, as if it never was any other way.
Haute Couture influences always was an important theme for the designers but opposed to before, when the clothes moved away from the body, this season they were much tighter and therefore more sensual, molding around the body because of their knitted backs and use of soft leathers. Materials were mixed to ensure comfort with a leather shirt lined in cotton and a viscose sweater that was cashmere in the inside. The insides of clothing offer a complete new world for the wearer, with a simple mac with a down-jacket interior and a fur coat with a sporty lining.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013
John Varvatos is the go-to brand for Rock and Roll guys with sartorial wit. This fall the Varvatos-man was more of a dandy than ever with slim-cut clothes in dark hues. Subtle plaids were combined with cozy mohair sweaters and slick tailoring. Varvatos re-introduced flared trousers for men to give that seventies aura. This al ended in a finale of lucious velvet suits, ready to be worn for the 21th century dandy.
Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Christian Dior FW14 experimented with texture, colour and shapes to produce a collection of tailored coats in eye catching colours and exhibited an imaginative approach to corset lacing seen down the spines of dresses and along the sides of blazers. Interjections of neon yellow, green and pink dresses accessorized with glitter details added a distinct femininity and sensationally textured dresses gave way to a sleek yet striking aesthetic.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Set in a CHANEL themed supermarket with each shelf merchandised with CHANEL produce, the FW14 show presented dressed up daywear with sportswear references. Cut up body hugging trousers and crop top combinations were juxtaposed with bright mismatched geometric prints seen on large coats, long dresses and the lining of coats. There was a theme of matching pairs with an added elegance through layered white pearls. Ruffled pink princess yet chic dresses were edged up with knee length laced up trainers and shiny silver metallic leggings were worn under large tweed overcoats. This was a show of successful contrasts.
Yohji Yamamoto at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
All of the drama and theatrics you could wish for were at Yohji Yamamoto’s fairy-tale esque FW14 show. Bright and flamboyant makeup was accompanied by extremely stylistic hairstyles and duvet like large black overcoats whilst bright and vibrant graphics were painted onto all black pieces. These experimental and unique graphic designs continued with large florals and heavily layered black pieces added a lavish sophistication and weighed down the exaggerated theme of the show. It exposed us to a more bizarre and outlandish winter wardrobe.
Ann Demeulemeester at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A blanket of black and white with glimpses of luxurious gold constituted the Ann Demeulemeester FW14 show. The collection, consisting of both menswear and womenswear depicted a demure yet distinct darkness that adopted a gothic theme while still adhering to a feminine aesthetic. The womenswear was heavily deconstructed through the folding and wrapping of materials to create a fearless and fiery look whilst the menswear combined clean lines with dark punk that embodied sharpness with edge.
Haider Ackermann at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Haider Ackermann FW14 show presented a satisfying equilibrium between masculinity and femininity. Styles were merged with sophisticated long grey suits paired with thick black sweatband style headbands to give a relaxed edge. Sophistication continued with floor length coats worn with flared suit trousers and head to toe black loose fitting pieces. Haider Ackermann watered down the sophisticated element by offering a high end chic look with short leather jackets paired with all grey outfits and sleek black ankle boots. This provided a wearable and effortlessly elegant demeanor.
Day 3: Emporio Armani, Iceberg and Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Emporio Armani FW ’14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week epitomised the modern, sophisticated and effortlessly chic Flapper Girl. Wide legged black silk trousers decorated with dotted white stripes displayed alternative sleek while luscious velvet and sparkling silver embodied the fun elegance of the collection. Models sported jet- black, boyish haircuts as they showcased stylish silver, black and white suits as well as fitted turtle neck tops and 1920s inspired straight dresses.
With an emphasis on tailored coats, knitwear and uniquely printed white sweatshirts, the Iceberg FW ’14 collection used sportswear as an inspiration and contrasted bright, clear whites with even brighter neon yellows and reds. Fur and leather, buckled neck braces were worn as scarfs and leg hugging trousers were paired with metallic silver, jet black and deep purple ankle boots to create a tenacious yet feminine collection.
Shades of blue, deep red and black were present at the Versace FW ’14 show at Milan Fashion Week. Donatella stayed true to the brands lavish and ostentatious designs as models sported two – toned fitted dresses with silk detailing, rich fur coats and cut out suede knee high boots. Leather fringing and fur were combined and fitted coats were embellished with buttons, this was extravagance at its best. Unique patterning covered fur coats and strappy silk dresses embodied feminine luxe.
Day 6: Dsquared² at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glitzy glamour met sleek style at the Dsquared² FW ‘14 show displayed at Milan Fashion Week. Short dresses were worn with extravagant overcoats to create drama and floor length, glamorous dresses were exaggerated with fur jackets and long, embellished capes. 1960’s dress silhouettes were referenced through short, buttoned up mini dresses and ostentatiousness was epitomised through heavy embellishments.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
At MM6 Maison Martin Margiela looks were puristic, functional and straight forward. For Fall/Winter 2014-2015 the diffusion line embodied sporty apparel, urban style and absolute perfection. Accompanied by a moving live performance of Canadian singer Sean Nicholas Savage, the show graced with bonded textiles with a paper-inspired finish, laminated denim and cotton twill. Thick rubber-grip soled over-the-knee boots added a perfect finish.
Giorgio Armani Privé Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
As the title 'Nomad' tells, the Armani Privé Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014 collection on Tuesday night is devoted to the woman who moves around the world and picks ideas from the beautiful things she sees. A mélange of ethnical influences, melts together in absolute perfection and the demand of high-quality handcraft.
Opening the show with a line of sublime garments of daily clothing in deep blue shades, Giorgio Armani tops up in the second part of the show: when crystal-embroidered gowns, plissé skirts combined with slighty masculine-tailored blazers and organza crinolines with oriental elements embraced, were the essence of Giorgio Armani's glamorous Spring/Summer 2014 evening appearance.
Paul Smith at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Sir Paul Smith had music on his mind while designing the fall/winter 2014 collection for men. Two currents of recent music history seemed to take the upper hand: in one corner was new wave and in the other psychedelica. The first manifested itself with big coats, knitted jumpers and slim pants while the second explained the bohemian prints, nonchalant fits and smock tops. To cover up next winter, Smith recommends an short poncho worn over leather jackets and big printed scarfs.
Tillmann Lauterbach at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Tillmann Lauterbach's latest collection was called “Neo-Dada” and that resulted in a more losely way of tailoring and influences from the street. The rather monochromatic collection was dynamic in it's play with formal and informal and different lengths in the same silhouette. Colorful touches like orange gloves and tips of shoes, together with sporty influences made the show youthful, but the fabrics and techniques made sure the collection remained refined. Best results of these clashes were the tweed bomber, layered pants and roomy, hooded sweaters.
Christophe Lemaire at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
During his menswear Fall/Winter 2014 collection, Christophe Lemaire explained that his collection was an evolution of his work. His roomy silhouettes sometimes were slightly blue-collar, but very nonchalant and chic. Take for instance his big, double breasted coats, robust denim and big pockets. Elsewhere in the collection, the designer looked at the Far East with mao-colars, wider shapes and a luxurious pajama-ensemble. This lookbook was photographed in the circular hall of the Maison de la Radio in Paris to enhance the timelessness and urban character of the collection.
Patrick Mohr at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Freedom expresses a person’s ability to act upon their will. However, this statement’s boundaries hold true for the fashion world in particular. Dark-skinned models are still a rare commodity in designer’s shows. Patrick Mohr, the German fashion scenes enfant terrible, casted dark-skinned models exclusively for work hard. be mohr. – making a loud statement against arbitrary boundaries. With his show, he enticed the spectator to ponder questions of values and autonomy of decision. Front and center of Mohr’s tenth show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was model Papis Loveday.
His first, and only, appearance during Berlin Fashion Week along with choreographer Nikeata Thompson was a really special moment – an implosion of convention. And even though Mohr almost solely focused on the color blue, on its strength and its interaction with his designs, his fall/winter 2014/15 collection may very well be the most versatile vision of the designer to date. In all its facets, the strong cyan can be seen in blousons, coats, shirts, pants and even in ribbed leggings and socks. The coats had triangular crocodile appliqués on the back and sleeves - Mohr’s signature, which has so far accompanied ten invaluable seasons.
Kris van Assche at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
As young as the models at Kris van Assche's Fall/Winter 2014 collection looked, they surely looked ready to take on the world. Big coats made from thick wool or nylon were worn on classics like white shirts and slim pants. Extra layers consisted of round sweaters and sleeveless vests that were sometimes worn over suits to give the idea of a bullet proof vest. Aside from the protective attitude, there was also a time and a place for some fun with pop appliqués in multiple colors and short schoolboy blazers.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Kim Jones has always been talking about the art of travel for his collections at Louis Vuitton. That is no surprise with a brand that started in luggage but this season he pushed the envelope in that domain. After referencing most continents, Jones this time looked even further. For the Fall/Winter collection the designer looked at NASA maps of the world from space and took aerial photographs of Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Lines in Peru as an inspiration. He then went to those areas to find the finest local materials. This made for a collection that had an futuristic edge but was earthed in traditional values. Best were looks when there was a tension between formal and casual, for exemple in jumpsuit looks with matching coats or suits worn with t-shirts. Jones also added a new version of the Damier-pattern to the house's codes, called the Damier Cobalt, with a dark blue as a sign of new understated luxury.
John Lawrence Sullivan at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
John Lawrence Sullivan fall/winter 2014 was all about British examples of rebels like mods, skinheads and teddy boys. This resulted in quite a few high waisted pleated pants and creepers. It wasn't a retrospective though. Arashi Yanagawa made these influences from last century exciting and new with blown up stripes, metallics and furry knits. Other motives was minerals and marbles, which were visible in prints used for suits, jackets and parkas. This print was especially convincing when treated with a layer of plastic.
Valentino at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Valentino's head-designers Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pierpaolo Piccioli talked about their idea to bring a nonchalant and comfortable influence to their luxurious menswear. The shownotes explain: “Private becomes public and vice versa.” Which resulted in pajamas' in pinstripes or tweeds and big winter coats that feel like robes. The core of the Valentino-brand remains the tradition of Haute Couture and that even manifests itself in the menswear collections. As relaxed as some jackets and coats dance around the body, so much work goes into the inner workings of the garment, balancing it just right on the shoulder. This not only gives a feeling of craftsmanship to the wearer, but also reinforces the idea of comfort and homeliness. That also explains the rug-like materials for some coats and the luscious knits. Quirky details like an owl on the back with wings reaching over the shoulders took the collection out of the house and into the woods. And for that the Valentino-man has a decadent fishers hat.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Miuccia Prada showcased a restrained, yet eclectic menswear collection. Once again, she proofed her skills for traditional high-quality craftsmansship and her well developed sense of adjusting colours. Sporting shawl collars and satin Shirts were ascesoriesed with multicoloured fey scarves. Her setting was held in a rather minimalistic ambiance, featuring a live orchestra with German music from the thirties.
Diesel Black Gold at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2014, creative director Andreas Melbostad showcased a fearless, authentic and original tailored menswear collection. Born out of military inspiration, the line does not miss out on it‘s wild rock 'n' roll roots. Mirrored silver leather pants and bomber jackets are covered with badges and cut in a in a masculine silhouette.
J.W.Anderson at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
And again, J.W.Anderson blured the lines of gender in his straightforward Fall/Winter 2014 performance at London Collections: Men. Opening the show with a line of tabards, his mannequin's seemed like canvases for his artistic expression stomping down the runway in high-heeled platform boots. Multicolored knitwear, over wide, cuffed trousers and turtlenecks dominated the collection.
Saint Laurent at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rock and roll was given a sleek makeover at the Saint Laurent FW14 show. Grungy tartan, leather, velvet and glitter were given a high fashion edge and 60s style mini dresses were worn underneath tailored overcoats to smarten up the dazzle. The collection comprised of just enough rock references to be exciting but used clean and structured lines to comply with a very fashionable look.
Iceberg for la Rinascente Milano
Iceberg launched a sweatshirt limited edition developed exclusively for the prestigious Milan department store 'La Rinascente'. The collection includes two models: a cotton gauzed sweatshirt with neoprene details that highlights the Mickey Mouse embroidery and a 'College' inspirated sweatshirt with the Iceberg historic logo.
The sweatshirts are now available at la Rinascente Milano, Italy.
#DIESELTRIBUTE by Nicola Formichetti
Nicola Formichetti launched his first exclusive capsule collection for the Italian denim brand Diesel under the promising title 'RE-EXAMINE THE PAST, RE-IMAGINE THE FUTURE'. To underline the fearless Diesel spirit and pay tribute to the DNA of the brand, Nicola 'examined' various legacy pieces in the headquarter factory of Breganze and customized found materials from the 35 -year archive in a new design. Each and every item in the entire collection is handmade and pushing the fashion quotient further than ever before. To keep iconography alive, the newly-appointed Artistic Director used found patches, displaying e.g. moto club images such as the eagle, all cut and laid by hand. Furthermore, red, white and green buttons praise the brands Italian heritage. The men's and women's ready-to-wear includes 45 pieces and consits of two segments, a denim capsule and a leather capsule, including jackets, shirts, vests, jeans and accessories.
Under his vision of the future, Nicola Formichetti was remaining true to the unique ways of distributing Diesel and therefore teamed up with celebrated photographer Nick Knight and his creative team, the SHOW STUDIO, to shoot an revolutionary campaign. The entirely new visual concept was shot with an iPhone, and retouched by filters of photo and video apps such as Instagram, Glitchè, PickPlayPost and Megaphoto. This unique look speakes the true vocabulary of a visionary take into social media.
The denim #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule is ready to shop online and in selected Diesel stores only, the leather #DIESELTRIBUTE capsule will follow in February 2014. Explore the outstanding online campaign at
Breaking the Ice by Yi Zhou
Italian label ICEBERG teams up with Chinese artist Yi Zhou for a very special and unique capsule collection including menswear, womenswear and acces- sories. The exquisite designs took it's inspiration from wild, scenic landscapes, hybrid animals and images of the sun, all captured on stylish T-Shirts, sweaters, shirts, hoodies and skirts. This collection symbolizes the perfect wardrobe for wanderlust and nature lovers.
A little documentary was directed by Yi Zhou to make this wonderful collection and it's spirit sensually perceivable to it's audience, later on seen at window dis- plays along ICEBERG'S prestigious shops. Yi Zhou is featured as a fictional cartoon character, which gets repeated, distorted and abstracted and has morphed herself into the strings of cotton sweaters and T-Shirts.
Breaking the Ice – ICEBERG by Yi Zhou will be available at ICEBERG stores worldwide starting December 2013.
By Rebekka Ayres
A concept conceived under the umbrella of one of Europe's wettest cities, Norwegian Rain is a label for the elements, fashioned for those who like their rainwear sartorial. The Bergen-based brand threads Japanese sensibility into function-rich outerwear, unperturbed by a market saturated by PVC raincoats and flimsy anoraks. For Norwegian Rain, performance is high, meticulously designed, and aesthetically aware, making the age-old dilemma between practicality and design wholly obsolete. Working in weatherproof membrane fabrics recycled and imported from Japan, designer T Michael and creative director Alexander Helle produce collections bespoke to the style climate of each season. Born from Norway's 'dugnad‘ tradition – a neighborly philosophy by which communities volunteer their services to achieve a common goal – it was the enterprising imagination of the brand that invited collaboration between Bergen's creatives, culminating in this finely-engineered fabrication. Materials are equally ethical, sourcing organic cotton and abstaining from solvents, while reducing CO2 emissions by 80 percent in the process.
Men‘s shapes take heed from the time-honored trench, with resourceful cuts shaking off the shackles of their fusty predecessors. Whether double or single-breasted, finishes defy their expectations. By displacing fastenings and concealing cryptic details, raincoats offer a Swiss army-knife variety of options, shape-shifting in seconds to an entirely new guise. Folds serve both high neck and open lapel, converting from spread to standing collar in a matter of moments. There is even a detachable hood to shield against the transient temper of the clouds. While silhouettes transform, color remains consistent, in a muted palette of olive green and greys. Herringbone takes black to a soft and subtle charcoal with its quiet texture, lending just enough elaboration to let the balance hang in the hands of form. Women, too, have a compass of choice, as classic belted macs unbuckle readily into swing capes. The unisex Raincho, meanwhile, marks Norwegian Rain’s most ingenious legacy to date, being at once a comfort staple and a sculptural marvel. Horn buttons punctuate the purity of its outer shell, enveloping the body with the considered vigilance of exquisite origami. Embracing the frame with downy cashmere linings, Norwegian Rain‘s scrupulously-constructed pieces give good enough reason to yearn for rainy days.norwegianrain.no
M.I.A. x Versus Versace
Artist and rapper M.I.A. has designed an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with Italian luxury label Versace, entitled ‘M.I.A. x Versus Versace‘. M.I.A‘s up-coming line is inspired by bootleg market stall fakes. “Versace designs have always been bootlegged, now it‘s Versace bootlegging the bootleg for the bootleggers to bootleg the bootleg“, says M.I.A about her idea. The line features 19-pieces for men and women and combines Versace‘s trademarks with the urban and original spirit.
Printed jeans, silk shirts and jersey dresses in bright and loud colours glaze with kaleidoscopic prints, graphical ornaments and versions of the famous Versace emblem. Mexican photographer Jaime Martinez shot the unique digital GIF campaign featuring images of M.I.A. and friends wearing the collection on East London markets.
M.I.A. x Versus Versace will be available online and in selected stores on 16 October 2013.
Marc Jacobs's last show for Louis Vuitton
First it was a rumor, now it is out: Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton. Being one of the most important American designers of the 21st century, Jacobs has been creative director since 16 years turning the iconic luggage brand into a new era of fashion-forward design. Jacobs leaves the brand to focus more on his own label in the future. His last appearance at Louis Vuitton was a poetic retrospective and breathtaking nostalgic performeance, awarding elements of former shows. Accompanied by dark, tragic and celebratory music the show announced the end of a grand era. As anticipated the collection embodied the extravagant, rebellious and genius essence Jacobs is loved for.
Immense peacock feather headpieces arised on the runway with black dominated garments. A clock, a carousel and fountain created a melancholic atmosphere and made this show be an elaborate highlight on last day of Paris Fashion Week.
Viktor&Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The background for the Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2014 collection was an institutional wall (maybe from a boarding school?) with the designers names clad on it in graffiti. That rebellious attitude persisted in the collection were good girls gone pretty bad. The schoolboy-uniforms showed today were deconstructed and heavily studded. Like a gothic cheerleader, the Viktor&Rolf girl pierced her collars or painted her shirt. New was the bermuda-shape, that in it‘s largeness, moved like a stiff skirt. Optional were the the little kilts in front and in the back.
Dolce&Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Designer-duo Dolce&Gabbana for Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 showcased garments, that got inspired by Roman and Greek mythology and the perfection of ancient temples and theatres. The collection thematically focuses on beauty, magic and enchantment and exposes pomposity and glamour in a strong manner. The main motives of this show were golden antique coins adorning dresses, headbands, jewelry and belts. Macramé and chiffon textiles in a colour palette of black, red, cream, dark green and esspecially gold dominated this selection of stunning pieces.
Remarkable prints of almond tree flowers, lithography of Sicilian temples and traditional decorations of ceramics highlighted exclusive fabrics such as lacquered silks, organza laces and gold-printed leather. Along with exclusive, luxury pieces, such as highwaist pencil skirt, fur vests, golden earrings and the newest Dolce & Gabbana bags entitled Eva and Sara, the fashion collection, was accompanied by the original music taken from various movies of Federico Fellini.
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Giorgio Armani Womenswear collection was a haunting highlight on last day of Milan Fashion Week. The traditional Italian house of Fashion showcased a casual, yet elegant collection mainly focusing on fluid and light designs. Draped garments achieved a spirit of fantasy and romance by playfully using volume and form. Key items of this collection were transparent dresses, tunics and coats arising the runway in a colour palette of purple, lilac and pink. Layered chiffons, jacquard silks and elasticized cottons incarnated ultimate perfection and extravagance and gave a prelude to how Spring/Summer 2014 will look like.
Burberry at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Burberry Prorsum for Spring/ Summer 2014 season showcased a collection of warmness and fragility. Cashmere cardigans, new construed trench coats, gracile pencil skirts and tops of organza in pastel shades of lavender, rose, mint, and cornflower blue created an idea of something sexy and a little vulnerable but with something protective and safe and top. Laces with floral patterns underlined the romantic approach this collection had
Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 2014
The must-see show on London Fashion Week’s schedule was no other than Vivienne Westwood, opening with a dramatic dance performance by Lily Cole inspired by Hans Christian Andersen.
Westwood later saying in an interview that this performance was about the consequence of global climate warming. Great craftsmanship and bizarre beauty got visible in hand tailored and draped jumpsuits and dresses dominated by olive green, earthy colours with floral photo prints. Climate as a key word printed on a top and crazy cosmetics related to the origin topic of environment change made this show outstanding and memorable.
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela at NYFW
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela for this Spring/Summer 2014 showcased a conceptual collection highlighting pure perfection and vivacity. Accompanied by synth sounds and floating riffs, Margiela sent out on the runway contemporary casual garments, oversized tops and short cuted blazers. Speaking the true spring vocabulary in a neutral colour pallet, this collection shows an innovative attitude.
Diane von Fürstenberg, Y-3, DKNY at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
Fourth day of NYFW brought up the soft elegance of femininity as well as the awareness of todays’ “digital noise”. Opening the Y-3 show with flashy lights and various musicians playing on drums and containers, Yohji Yamamoto was teamed up with art director Peter Saville, who stands out for his unique graphics. The combination of blackness and hyper colours generated a postmodern streetwear chic. Bright coloured gradients and watercolour blurring of a multitude of neons, sporty hoodies with slogans, pigtails connected to feathers formed as both a critique and celebration of the contemporary internet culture.
Y-3 Spring/ Summer 2014
Diane von Fürstenberg’s Spring/ Summer 2014 reminded of a breezy summer safari with zebra striped dresses, tunics and maxi dresses made of silk.
Diane von Fürstenberg Spring/ Summer 2014
Right on time to DKNY’s 25th anniversary, Dona Karen sent out her fresh collection with overalls, baseball caps, bodysuits, blazers, sneakers, neoprene dresses and anoraks floating over the runway. Single pieces of baggy pants bringing back the 90’s and other pieces dedicating to a strong urban energy. The show got closed by Rita Ora -current campaign girl of DKNY- dancing to a song of the Beastie Boys.
DKNY Spring/ Summer 2014
Onitsuka Tiger New X-Caliber Sneaker
Frontrunner of ‘80s sportswear, the iconic Onitsuka Tiger X-Caliber sneaker has been revived for 2013, and is fighting-fit to take on its increasingly urban 21st century surroundings. Heralded from birth for its intelligent practicality, function remains true to form – every inch the performance-boosting and injury-preventative staple that has proved faithful to athletes since 1982. Design, too, takes a step down the retro route; in its original swatches of blue, silver and off-white with red and royal accents, its distinctive vertical heel vents an aid to movement and cushioning for the foot, as its ‘quadra’ lacing inimitably zig-zags the tongue. The redesign of the new X-Caliber does not go without sharpening its cutting-edge: breathable mesh material softens the ‘80s blow, while a thick Memory EVA mid-sole considerately supports the foot of the modern day wearer. A sneaker whose founding vantage point was set leaps and bounds ahead of its time, the X-Caliber seems to slot seamlessly into the present, exploiting an edited silhouette and established heritage to compete with and overtake its more measured contemporaries.
Camper Together with Bernhard Willhelm
Ever laced up in erratic beauty, Bernhard Willhelm's lucid aesthetic rarely fails to be brand itself as provocative – maniacally eclectic at the very least. His next collection for Camper's Fall/Winter line delves into the exotic, generating innovative and sporty styles to stand anarchically alongside the coveted Himalayan sneaker of collaborations past, reinterpreted ready for its latest incarnation.
Potent monochrome pigments are the product of the Himalayan's most recent evolution; in black, white and Royal blue, they are flexibly unisex, quiet with their peachskin contrasts, yet without falling short of statement detail. Corrugated platforms inject a less obvious slant on streetwear, while cartoony hose laces bundle on the tongue, grey and white threads twined to pull together its most distinguishing attributes.
Fresh offerings, like the Everest, too deliver an unconventional classic, aligning an original monotone upper with an inflate outsole for a brazen pop statement. An exclusive womenswear piece plays on the typical cowboy boot skeleton, boldly divided in two-tone suede and slouching aloof for a cooler, more comfortable update of a renowned silhouette. They say Bernhard Willhelm sees the beauty in chaos – his collection for Camper delivers just that.
Levi's 501 Celebrates 140th Anniversary With Book Launch
A 20th century icon, it's hard to believe the immortal Levi 501 jean walked into its 140th year with the turn of the calendar. Ripened and reshaped since 1873, its silhouette has evolved and abstracted definition by the hands of its forebearers, unfurling into an icon itself throughout the course of its unfleeting lifetime.
To document its status as an artifact of modern times, Levi's have complied a catalogue of photographs for the book Levi's 501 Interpretation, the denim the esteemed subject of 501 personal styles. Its compelling personalization makes for compulsive page turning, the unique charmisma of each sitter providing constant refreshment and charm. Limited to a droll 501 special editions, the book was launched last Wednesday with a viewing at Berlin's 032c workshop, to a warm reception which counted Clemens Schick, Coco Krebitz and Hien Le as its guests.
Levi's 501 Interpretation will be available online and in selected stores worldwide from August.
International Talent Support Reveals 2013 Winners
The International Talent Support annual contest provides a spectacle of a creative platform each year, showcasing the most promising talent in fashion design from all around the globe. Convieved and developed under the EVE agency, ITS pools an authoritative judging panel from the industry's most discerning experts, including Art Director for Diesel, Nicola Formichetti.
Han Chul Lee
Finalists submitted 30 projects – 10 for each competition area – to be considered over the two day event, held for the twelfth time in the Italian seaport of Trieste. Past editions have seen a then burgeoning Astrid Andersen, Mark Fast and Michael Van Der Ham compete for the sought-after accolades, which are commended with cash grants and internships at the helm of the world's most prominent brands.
The Royal College of Art nurtured several of this year's winners; Han Chul Lee from took the crown for Fashion Collection of the Year and the Vogue Talents Award with his crocodile skins reforming classic silhouettes, while the prestigious Diesel Award went to Xiao Li for her playfully inflated pastel knits and cartoon cuts, earning her a six-month placement with the brand and a prize of €25.000. Tomohiro Sato put on an curious show, claiming the Modateca Award for his boundlessly imaginative embellishments, and Nelly Hoffman's photo-realist printed streetwear won the support of the YOOX.COM Award, with the oppurtunity to design an exclusive garment for the leading virtual store. True to its word, ITS have given us more than just one to watch this year with this year's collection of gifted winners.
Lanvin Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
More than multifaceted, Lanvin's Fall/Winter campaign teetered on the schizophrenic: twelve frames and twelve inongruous characters. Starring Edie Campbell, Abiah Hostvedt and Miles Langford, the studio portraits and short film depict a story styled to conntradict and confuse.
With Steven Meisel behind the lens, composision is reliably exacting, with painterly lighting further sculpting the air of a masterpiece. Powerfully statuesque, there is something of the Norman Parkinson belle in Campbell's pose. A bafflingly eclectic wardrobe spans kitsch and couture, whether its a butterfly/cow skin hybrid dress and turban or flared '50s shifts, its the indiscriminate hotchpotch of styles that brings the looks together as a whole. Brooches and bags studded with the words 'love', 'help' and 'cool' disorientate with their mixed messages and garish luxury.
Menswear, meanwhile, finds ground between sartorial and sportswear, pairing a rucksack and sneakers with an artfully mismatched suit. Animals under arm, Lanvin hits on a look that is fashionably derranged.
IWISHUSUN X Marcelo Burlon supported by Warsteiner
Unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, IWISHUSUN 's latest collaboration brings the steely punch of Marcelo Burlon's digitized County of Milan rave prints to its new initiative line – limited to a strict 100 pieces.
Piercing through T-shirts in black or white, Burlon punctuates a simple backdrop with an owl motif in signature kaleidoscopic style – a modernised symbol of 360° vision. With the sale of every T-shirt, IWISHUSUN, together with its partner ORBIS are able to use the proceeds to fund cataract eye operations in Dhaka, Bangladesh, limiting the widespread suffering of preventable blindness.
In partnership with the Warsteiner brewery, Burlon's design has also been translated to their limited edition bottles, mirroring the T-shirts with their complimentary monochrome tones.
Vault by Vans x WTAPS
Launching their latest collaboration with military precision, Vault by Vans x WTAPS had customers lining the streets outside Berlin's Firmament store, ready to enlist for their new classic styles, reinterpreted in camo shades of navy, olive greens and blacks.
Lending their iconic silhouettes as a canvas are the Sk8-Hi, Slip-On and Chukka Boot, recieving their warpaint for Fall 2013. Canvas and suede coat with a utilitarian edge, in timeless natural shades that will stand the test of time, like their world renowned skeletons.
The Vault by Vans x WTAPS collection will be available worldwide from August 15th.
Issever Bahri Spring/Summer 2014
During MBFWB, Issever Bahri showcased a collection filled with contrasts. Inspiration came in the form of Turkploitation of the 70s, the low budget copying of Hollywood productions. What often resulted in one-of-a-kind pieces, funny and sometimes absurd, served as the foundation of Issever Bahri's spring/summer 2014 collection. Crocheted leather bands formed nets, which Derya Issever and Cimen Bachri molded into pants, skirts, tops and dresses, married with shiny and sheer fabric. Ornaments are a tribute to the designer's Turkish heritage and emblazoned symmetrically cut sweaters, dresses and jackets. They come in either a white-red combo or different shades of green. In using belts, the duo pulls in the waist, adding femininity to their designs. For all its sophistication, the collection, much like its inspiration is loud and out there - a fun addition for spring/summer 2014.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Michalsky Spring/Summer 2014
Michalsky's show, the StyleNite at the end of MBFWB, basks in the flashy entertainment of fashion. The venue is just a little larger, the runway a little wider and the guest list a little more notorious. Ahead of his show and in between his mens and womenswear collection, the show's vibe is held at party-level with musical acts such as NONONO and MS MR. Both super fun and energetic, amping the audience for what is to come. When it comes to the collections themselves, Michalsky has internalized one thing: never change a running system. The mere number of looks for each collection, both titled 'Sweet Freedom', is astounding and every single one is decidedly Michalsky-esque. Nothing too out there, but a showcasing of some great pieces interlaced with the major trends for spring/summer 2014, which had become evident throughout the week. With the Michalsky man it is never quite clear if he's a flamboyant cool kid, dressed in slim, sharp reddish orange or blue suits and understated khaki pieces teamed with small-scale geometrical prints or a slightly smug pretty boy, in silver metallic parkas and matching shoe – belt combos. The menswear collection certainly holds a piece for every level of bravado. For his womenswear presentation the designer put forward solid, wearable looks. His color palette here differed and he relied on shades from light goldenrod and tangerine to business-like gray and white, elegant black and a pretty cloud print. While Michalsky stuck to easily interchangeable and levelheaded designs, the overall feel was decidedly younger from his previous showcases with long summer coats over shorts or mini skirts and flowing chiffon skirts tossed together with simple shirts and biker jackets. He also tried his hand in more daring dinner jackets – short and slim with low necklines and contrasting lapels. Many of the pieces exuded that special summer feeling, fresh and cavalier.
lala Berlin Spring/Summer 2014
The spacious Opernwerkstätten provided the backdrop for the fun, colorful and sexy spring/summer 2014 show of Lala Berlin. Easy breezy pieces came down the runway, from amazing prints to heavy knits and leather and flowing silk. Tropical palm prints, light and airy dresses, tiny shorts and sun hats. Minimalist leather shirts, ingenious knit bomber jackets and patterned mini skirts are perfect transitional pieces for all aspects of summer time: from the asphalt jungle of the big city to the sandy beaches of far away islands. The collection's color palette spans from pure white to soft peach, turquoise and black. Long dresses and one-pieces contrast pants and culottes.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Viktor & Rolf Fall Couture 2013
Having distanced themselves from the couture catwalks since their last show in the year 2000, Viktor & Rolf have broken a thirteen-year hiatus with a show that more than makes up for the silence.
Twenty outfits in total – each one an all-black experimentation of shadow and silhouette. It seems a single-color palette really is the key to ensnaring a second look, the eclipsing sobriety oppressing the eye to search for its finer details. You don't have to search long though, when faced with Viktor & Rolf's artful forms.
Collars kept things classic when hemlines ducked from conformity, taking allusive shapes and bounding volumes. Surface stitching served to set curves into neoprene-satin bodies, somehow avoiding the inescapable 'scuba' allegations that come with the use of such a material. Even with sandals, the look was made for neither beach nor water – rather with gently robing cloaks and a subtle nod to the mandarin collar, pieces took heed from the quiet elegance of traditional Japanese dress. Grassy fringing climbed arm to neck, sprouting here and there as an organic accent. Such tranquil embellishment made for a meditative show – a thought not lost on Viktor, who reflected, “Our current state of mind is mindfulness” – a pensive adage for a pensive return.
Achtland Spring/Summer 2014
Designer duo Achtland are newcomers to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. For their first show, they delivered an extravaganza of feminine creations, a contemporary mix of 50s details, layering and color. The spectrum for spring/summer 2014 ranged from white to dove and light blue tones, from sunny yellow to deep midnight blue. Floral detailing added extra sass to the collection and contrasted cool clean and purist lines. With this extraordinary collection, Achtland has made a summery statement, adding excitement for what the duo’s upcoming collections will hold in store.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
22/4_hommes_femmes Spring/Summer 2014
The label by designer Stephanie Hahn, 22/4_Hommes_Femmes, entered the official menswear calendar in Paris this year with a collaction that mixes classicism and sportswear. The past collections have always been excercises in lightness, balance and subtleness and Hahn pushes that attitude with her most recent outing, resulting in a refined and sophisticated wardobe full of options. A big inspiration for the designer was the artist Robert Ryman with this white-on-white paintings which made for fresh clothing and layered lines. Rather than being cool, the collection gave warmth with wrap-closings and fluid silhouettes. Hahn also took traditional menswear details and gave them new twists like a necktie sewn into a collarless button-down and “collar stays” in mother of pearl.
Sissi Goetze Spring/Summer 2014
The spring/summer 2014 collection had a 1990s hip-hop feel to it. Visors are the hot weather update of Sissi Goetze’s somewhat signature accessories: the cap. Since a man in shorts is super relaxed, Sissi Goetze made loose-cut, shiny black drawstring shorts. The focus of the collection is on black and denim materials. Aside from cropped pants, Sissi Goetze has men in layered, overlapping clothes next summer. Color choices for spring/summer 2014 range from light blue to safari style camel. The designer’s unconventional approach to contemporary menswear is a nod to every man’s inner rascal.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Hermès Spring/Summer 2014
Veronique Nichanian's collections for Hermès are always about evolution rather than revolution. Her menswear in understated, luxurious and handsome. Where many designers try to shock the wearer with high impact collections and shows, Nichanian seduces them by awakening their desires with luscious clothing. For spring/summer 2014 the collection had a tension between the formal and casual which was perfectly mastered in a look that featured a sharp leather jacket with a t-shirt and a printed scarf. Not surprisingly, the leather pieces were true objects of desire. Trousers, jackets or t-shirts, Nichanian can always create them in a manner so that they are not kinky whatsoever, but an intimate luxury to add to your daily life.
Cerruti 1881 Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Spring/Summer 2014 collection by Cerruti 1881 was presented in a modern tent in the courtyard of a very old Parisian townhouse. This was quite a good metaphor for the collection, which combined traditional tailoring with modern ideas. All garments were quintessentially classic; suits, shirts, overcoats and trenchcoats but most of them had a twist to them. The opening coats for instance were so light and fluid that with their length they almost looked ethnic, like a Moroccan djebella. Also new was the internal band attached at the chest in some jackets that was pulled over the other panel of the jacket to give it a completely new sillhouette.
Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kim Jones showed his collection for Louis Vuitton in a huge greenhouse with the models entering the stage from a wooden construction, reminiscent of an American barn. That part of the world was exactly what Jones had in mind while designing the collection. From the varsity-details to the tie-dye and bandana-prints, it was all about the freedom of the US. The designer, a fond traveler, even took the dorky prom suits but made them significantly less dorky and more chic.
Gucci Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Restrained design is something of a stranger to Gucci. How come, then, Frida Giannini pulled it off with such style? Outsized T-shirts conquered shirts in the quest to vanquish the generic suit. That said, traditional shape played a part in the battle. Assuming a chinoiserie camouflage, it was ‘dressed to kill’ – all spotted sheaths of white and bright satin.
Leather, too, possessed a pleasing fluidity, in tanned swathes like honeyed skin. White danced with beige to a controlled routine – plain pea coats and anoraks leaving little room for expression, though curiosity lies elsewhere: knitwear found its way as its less than prim self. All open-weave and slouched cut, it was a refreshing tincture compared with the accustomed aesthetic. Such a bounding leap from the dark begs further questions as to where the brand is headed. One thing’s for sure: the path looks promising.
Missoni Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Missoni held its own this season with its tawny marl knits. Skinny-cut suits in all varieties of biscuit beige swept down the runway, primary red standing as the most alarming punctuation to a taupe camouflage. Stripes recurred, as did zigzag – this time unassuming in hushed tones. Shawl-collared knits lent a touch of femininity, but brutish beards took it all away.
Like luggage stickers plastered across a battered leather valise, patchwork prints edged with trimmings left the hallmark of the nomad. Drawstring pouches, too, dangled from necks like that of a wandering shaman – Missoni’s designs the handsome remedy.
Moncler Gamme Bleu Spring/Summer 2014
As a label for whom tri-stripes and padding make up the fabric of the brand, it's a wonder Moncler Gamme Bleu hadn't met cricket whites before. With untainted purity, bulksome shapes gleam, punctured only by the invasive underscore of tri-colored edging.
Long socks meet shorts somewhere in the middle, knees bared like the inverse of padding. Protectivewear, as it happens, can be remarkably stylish. Shielding limbs with voguish concern, quilting and mesh gave depth, as well as dynamism. Vests skirt in aproned defence – paired with padded blazers, the effect is assuredly masculine. Edges rounded by patent binding steer the look from severity, jumping the fine line that divides clinical and futuristic. Nylon webbing, while sporty, can't help but seem space-age, making white lace-up ankle saddles appear all the more like moonboots. Who knew safety gear could be so directional?
Diesel Black Gold Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The Diesel Black Gold show was decidedly black/white. One-color-clad, pieces piled-high the monochrome feel, evocative of a film negative. The theme threaded through right to the finest detail, with slicked-back hair in polarised shades, from Billy Idol blonde to the deepest of jets. And with that, the look was set: leather bombers marked the stamp of the rebel, brushing shoulders with its converse – the tailored slack pant.
So as not to look too cared-for, distressed denim played an integral part to the piece, artfully flecked with painted palms. Texture, meanwhile, was deep and rich, filling out a hollow palette with a meatier frame. Lighter weight fabrics arrived in all forms; parachute silks, grained viscose and organzas in feminine florals – all knocked down by the mighty punch of matte black leather. For only the fourth runway show by the label, its speech was considerably fluent, so it looks as though excitement will run high for its fifth.
Dsquared² Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Beneath a canopy of tropical ferns lurks the untamed Spring/Summer collection of Dsquared² Khakis to the ready, buttoned down shirts call for knee-knocking safari shots in the earthiest of forest greens – pith helmet optional.
Utilitywear caters to your inner explorer, never wanting to be short of a breast pocket or two. Cotton drill lays the canvas for bush jackets and combats to take shape. The mood soon evolves, notably lightened by silken spots in sherbert hues.
White sweeps through like a clean gust of breeze, taking a load off heavy-weighted leather, which almost looks thirsty from the sun.
Prints guest – briefly yet brightly – parading pieces like a blaring mural. African artwork ornaments graphically, overpowering the quiet rustle of fine leaf motifs. Pattern is bought to a close by golden thatched jacquard, weaving rafia geometrics into splendidly tailored suits. King of the Jungle, indubitably.
Ermenegildo Zegna Spring/Summer 2014
They say absence makes the heart grow fonder. If anything could illustrate the truth of such a statement, it would be the unanimous fervor surrounding Stefano Pilati's return to the runway this menswear season. The move from YSL to Zegna could be considered something of a quantum leap, and a contrast that was not wasted on Pilati, who appeared to take advantage of the unshackled color palette.
Gone was the severity of yore, ushered out by taupes and hunter greens. Black did make a cordial appearance, though its presence was fleeting and manner unforthcoming, submitting control to the gentler details. Layers filled depths that were hollowed by minimalism, as featherweight knits grazed shirts and suit jackets in the same touch, while ditsy geometrics filled in the blanks. Proportions teased, whether it was overcoats to cocoon or abruptly tailored cut-offs. Cuffs, too, were rolled with imaginative flair, as wrists were wrapped like swadling to the three-quater point. In fluid crepe fabrics, robed trench coats in squared-off lines gave the wonderful impression of a ribbon-wrapped gift – as good a metaphor as any for Pilati's benevolent first offer for Ermenegildo Zegna.
Dolce&Gabbana Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The catwalk shows of Dolce&Gabbana replay digital print like a looping blockbuster marathon. This screening, however, seemed somewhat more cinematic than most. Maybe it was the colour – etched out in the sepia tones, classical columned temples resonated in the eyes of the early Hollywood film fan, which played out before such scenes.
For the most part, tones remained subdued, allowing the intricacy to speak for itself. Bomber jackets made the graphic guise look easy. As for the 3 piece suit: although impossibly difficult to wear, it was a thing of beauty, nonetheless. Patterns complimented – the quiet stripe of slim-fit pants replicating the pillared architecture of ancient Italy. Blossomed silks provided a brief séjour from an otherwise crusading collection, while raw cloth rags buffed the fine edges to relic.
As for shape, there was nothing historical about the square shell-tee – unless of course, atop a muscular form, from which it assumed gladiatorial proportions. Then again, Dolce&Gabbana’s contemporary classicism has amassed quite an arena, all eyes on their heroic prints.
Paul Smith Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
“Wearable with a point of view” was how Paul Smith described his latest designs. In the novel location of Savile Row’s Hauser & Wirth Gallery, Smith revealed his collection in a most unconventional way.
In the middle of the room lay the installation work of fine artist Subodh Gupta - a salvage yard of a shipwreck, overflowing with odds and ends – fitting for Smith’s design ethos, which extracted the influence of abstract ideas, crafting “simple shapes using fabric that was based on a windowpane or a pinstripe”.
Fabric is Smith’s magician’s wand, as his Spring/Summer collection would attest. The product of a partnership with the Clissold Mill, Yorkshire, traditional weaves were re-imagined when herringbone assumed the form of the Union Jack. Canvassing giant screens which served as a backdrop for the final products, Smith’s masterful coordination of contemporary and classic styles stood as a testament to his station at the pinnacle of British menswear.
Hackett London Spring/Summer 2014
In one jaunty step it was off to the boat race, where Hackett London's riviera wardrobe will go down just swimmingly.
A taste for brazen pattern that conflicts in the most civilized of manners is the veritable mark of an eccentric Englishman, in shades both complementary and harmonizing alike. Baby hues pop to pronounce layered seperates; peach, lemon, and spearmint shades arm the delectable palette of the collection, making way for a compass of blues, ranging from duck-egg to navy, to accent pieces with prestige.
Oxford slacks are the go-to staple, whether in blushing tints or intrepid checks, worn long or rolled up to the ankle for a more contemporary twist. Accessories are similarly sartorial – as bow-ties and cravats see that the all-important trimmings of the Hackett man are never in short supply. Heritage brogues and tassel loafers cast the footstep of a shrewd dresser, while adroitly-matched pocket squares and shoulder-cloaking cardigans speak of a true English gentleman.
A Cannes Diary by Louis Vuitton
Causing quite a stir at this year’s Cannes Film Festival was Sofia Coppola’s newest release, The Bling Ring. As preparations go underway for its premiere around the world, Louis Vuitton, together with director Jordan Schiele, present a short cinematic snapshot of the festival in A Cannes Diary.
Beautifully framed in timeless black and white, the opening shots capture the quiet anticipation of locations lying in wait for a hype of activity, before washing into the full-colour vibrancy of Coppola’s premiere party. Maurice Chevalier’s You Brought a New Kind of Love to Me provides the soundtrack to the piece, whispering timbres of old Hollywood glamour to a tradition whose roots lie in deep in the 1930s, and re-emerge today as the ever-opulent celebration we know it to be.
Converse x Ace Hotel Pro Leather
Born of their third collaboration with the Ace design hotel, Converse are to release the limited edition Pro Leather sneaker.
In premium white leather, the letter A is perforated to create a subtle motif. Texture and colour speak the same language, with muted sophistication the main undertone. Soft clay tones provide its only embellishment to chisel the distinguishing features of the Converse sneaker: soft suede contrasts, a round toe cap and iconic chevron star. Customers can chose between classic white cotton or leather laces – the perfect accent to their chalky touch.
Milano Moda Uomo Creative Installation: Ermenegildo Zegna
Drawing a curtain on an eighteen-month hiatus, The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is going above and beyond to ensure the entrance of its new Creative Director, Stefano Pilati, is far from a quiet one. To mark his catwalk debut since leaving Yves Saint Laurent, his work will be unveiled amidst a specially-curated creative installation, falling upon the first day of Milan's Menswear Fashion Week.
The setting of The VI Febbraio Pavilion is steeped in Milanese history, standing as the old fairground site of the city. Recently redeveloped, through the duration of Milano Moda Uomo, it is set to become a hub of artistic activity.
Pilati has enlisted Swedish film director Johan Söderberg, musician Klas Åhlund and pianist and composer Maxence Cyrin to compliment the aesthetic of his creative direction.
The event will be open to the public, welcoming 1,000 guests from June 22nd-25th.
Diesel Reboot Campaign
When Nicola Formichetti was made artistic director at Diesel back in April, we all knew that spelled total corporate reinvention. Fresh from his previous post at the creative helm of Mugler, Formichetti wasted no time in making his mark on the brand, with the announcement of his initiative, Diesel Reboot. Though his design influence will not materialise until the release of their Fall/Winter 2014 collection, the new Initiation Campaign indicates the transformation is well underway. Drawn upon ideas that were pitched to the brand by their Tumblr audience, imagery is unexpected, to say the least,. Beside text that reads “I resurrect the destructed”, the boy called BOYCHILD stands with hands together and adorned in clerical vestments made of denim. In what is unquestionably a directonal step for the label, the promotion speaks loudly of Formichetti's plans to restore Diesel to its former glory, pulling the brand back into relevance once again.
Karl Lagerfeld Concept Store Openings
With word of a Karl Lagerfeld store expansion generating a steady buzz accross Europe, for Paris and Berlin, anticipation of the new concept stores in the two cities is reaching a crescendo. Wade through the picturesque streets of Le Marais from June 7th to stumble upon newest edition to the eclectic boutiques of Rue Vielle du Temple. The store is the second of its kind to launch in Paris this year, joining the Boulevard St Germain location, which opened in February this year. July 1st will see Berlin welcome it's first Karl Lagerfeld concept store, found on the Neue Schönhauser Straße, closely followed by another opening in Munich this September.
Developed under the creative direction of Berlin-based architects Plajer & Franz, the new Karl Lagerfeld concept stores are to follow in the same vein as it's other recently-opened destinations. Artful design and ground-breaking technology will serve to accent the brand's luxury collections, with matte-black and high-shine feeding texture into Lagerfeld's characteristic monochrome aesthetic.
In-store iPads open a window to the Lagerfeld world, with shoppers able to immerse themselves in the latest collections, photograph their favourite products and even leave a note for the designer. Innovation extends to the fitting rooms, which double as photobooths, equipped with built-in touch screens to apply Karl-inspired filters before uploading to Facebook and Twitter.The growing European presence of the brand shows little sign of waning, with a second Berlin concept store at Leipziger Platz to be unveiled early next year.
Dior's Secret Garden 2
Step into a world of secrecy and splendour. To sequel the success of their Secret Garden short film last Fall, Dior are bringing their Fall/Winter collection to life through another directed piece. Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have been called upon to direct the Secret Garden 2- Versailles. Starring Daria Strokous as Marie Antoinette, the Château de Versailles provides the backdrop to an enchanting tale, dreamt upon the painting by Edouard Manet, Le déjeuner sur l'Herbe. Launching live online in June, prepare to explore a realm abound with poetry and colour, as flower-women bloom from its mysterious grounds. Fantasy thrives in the most unexpected of places, as luxury gives way to dark imagination - illustrious of the season's peek-a-boo cuts to established sillhouettes.
Marni Uomo book
When Marni stopped showing it's menswear collection on the runway, they started using multimedia resources to showcase their latest outings. Last season they made a short film and this time a book is released. This will not be a regular lookbook but an artproject with art director Dean Langley and photographer Clare Shilland.
Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni was inspired by the work of Dean Langley and wanted his outsider view for this presentation. She was interested in collaborating with someone who isn't involved with the design of the collection and brings a new perspective to the clothing. This resulted in a non linear portfolio of images with graphic elements and beautiful stills. Recurring theme is the color shocking fluo pink, which is also featured on the limited edition T-shirt in honour of the project.
Vivienne Westwood to redesign Virgin Atlantic's iconic Red Uniform
After over a decade Virgin Atlantic will redesign its original uniform – and who better to approach than leading British designer, Vivienne Westwood. The collaboration is a 10 year, long-term project which will see a total re-design of the uniform across all areas.
With original design, sustainability and reducing the environmental impact of business being vital factors to both Richard Branson and Vivienne Westwood, this long term design project aims to bring these ideals together in an exciting and innovative collaboration.
For the new uniforms Vivienne Westwood wanted to create a futuristic look which nevertheless referenced her enduring interest in 40’s French couture cutting techniques as well as the Savile Row tailoring heritage.
Alongside the women’s and men’s cabin crew and pilot’s uniforms, which will be unveiled later this year, all Virgin Atlantic uniforms from Clubhouse staff to the Virgin Holidays team will be re-designed by the iconic designer. Passengers will receive a sneak peak of the new uniforms on board from June 2013 ahead of the full launch in 2014
Karl Lagerfeld Store Opening Amsterdam
On the 25th of April, forward-thinking fashion brand Karl Lagerfeld opens its new Amsterdam concept store to the public. Selected press including ZOO Magazine and Dutch celebrities already got to take a sneak peek at the store's concept before everybody else.
On 150 square meters and two floors the luxury fashion is combined with the newest digital technology. The womenswear can be found on the ground floor along with matching accessories, footwear and eyewear, while the current men's collection and accessoires are available on the lower ground floor. On iPads the customers can make use of a digital guestbook, where they can view the latest collections, Karl Lagerfeld news and also take pictures of their favourite items. Fitting rooms function as photobooths, enabling customers not only to try on clothes, but also instantly share pictures of new outfits on social media platforms such as Facebook or Twitter.
Essential to the store's design is the contrast between elements – shiny and matte, black and white, old and new. The achitecture of the old 18th century house built near the canals is perfectly incorporated into the modern design of the store. Located at Hartenstraat 16 and right in the heart of Amsterdam, the store is surrounded with buzzing cafés, quirky vintage stores and high-end boutiques of the 9 Straatjes. More Karl Lagerfeld store openings are about to follow in other major European cities and the expansion into Asian markets is another goal of the brand to be achieved by the end of 2013.
From Nature to Armani/Casa
Not only famous for its high-end fashion, accessories and fragrances, the luxury fashion house Giorgio Armani also has its own home collection. The newest collection by Armani/Casa draws its inspiration from the eternal beauty and infinite power of nature. From Nature To Armani/Casa portrays how nature stays a sensitive force and source of inspiration in the business of everyday urban life.
Pure lines and simple shapes define the furniture design and eco-friendly materials are used for their production. Elegant tables with surfaces of striped banana tree wood or frames out of shiny walnut tree wood are a great addition to any living room, while the highlight might be a large wardrobe in the design of a vintage trunk. Fabrics used for Armani/Casa are exclusive wool as well as silk fabrics in earthy colours and a bright orange by Rubelli. Items like Nepalese carpets that tell the tales of distant worlds complete the collection.
Laserblast Club Collection by Replay
For Fall/Winter 2013-14 Replay created the Laserblast Club capsule collection. The denim collection has a young feel to it and its goal is to take casual denim to the clubs. Picking up on vibes and atmospheres of a night out, the collection features anything from sexy dresses to smart blazers. For both women and men this capsule collection has the essential garments for having drink at a chic bar or dancing the night away in the most hip clubs.
Plus the laserblast technology is not only cutting-edge, but also very environment friendly. In times, where people all around the world are encouraged to go green, Replay conrtibutes by reducing their water usage by 85% in their laserblast denim production.
Levi's® Vintage Clothing Exhibition Opening in Berlin
The 14 oz. in Berlin has recently had a special treat for its visitors. Beside the clothes ranges of menswear and womenswear the shoppers are now welcomed by a special exhibition supporting the Levi's® Vintage Clothing Spring/Summer 2013 collection.
The exhibition pays tribute to the early days of the Hot Rod and honours its legends such as Norm Grabowski. Especially after the second world war, the Americans broke out the tradition to tinker with their cars and to make them faster. But not only cars were 'hot-rodded' – suddenly anything from embellished clothes to custom-made guitars appeared.
35 “Kustom Monster Shirts” by Von Franco, a film by Aaron Rose as well as a unique Fender Custom Shop 1957 Stratocaster are part of the exhibition. It's like being taken back to that moment in time, when the trend emerged to make everything better and faster. The exhibition bringing the past to the present is located in the 14 oz. Haus Cumberland at the Kurfürstendamm 193-194 in Berlin.
Woolrich Hiking Blazer by Tokito
The current collections by Woolrich are inspired by the pioneering citizen journalists, who mingled in war journalism in the late 60s. They invented a completely new way of dressing by mixing professional wear with military elements.
One of the highlights derriving from this inspirational theme is the Travel collection – a mini collection taking ideas from the concept of a reporter’s life, always on the move and traveling around. It includes a versatile and easy-to-wear range of garments, combining functionality and comfort. There are coats with inside and outside pockets, pants with waterproof zips and the ergonomic 3-layer Hiking Blazer with pockets and a hood, which was designed by Tokito. These garments will proof useful even on rainy summer days and bring back fashion as well as function at the same time.
John Malkovich for Yoox
John Malkovich’s brand Technobohemian just released an exclusive men’s beachwear capsule collection for the online fashion store yoox.com. From March 2013 – and just in time to prepare for summertime – these versatile garments will join the online shop’s range and will be ready for men to order from over 100 countries all around the world.
The collection features essential pieces needed for summer. Light summer jackets, bermuda shorts, polo-shirts and swimwear make the collection what it is. Timeless and ideal to combine with seasonal pieces this year but also the ones to come, these garments will be a great addition to every men’s wardrobe. From sartorial to casual – it was Malkovich’s goal to create garments, which can be worn to every occasion.
The clothes are Made in Italy. This means a guarantee of highest quality and the use of finest fabrics. Light linen, leather, seersucker and cotton are the most used fabrics of the capsule collection. The comfortable and bright to neutral coloured collection is already available on yoox.com.
G-Shock X Maison Martin Margiela
Everything is still very secretive around a certain collaboration between the luxury fashion house Maison Martin Margiela and the G-Shock watch. One thing is certain though: To celebrate the 30th birthday of the G-Shock, a new model of the GA-300 will hit the stores in the end of March 2013.
The GA-300MMM will feature a detachable leather band and it has been hinted that the 0-23 numbers of the fashion designer will feature as a pattern. The watch will be a limited edition with a number of 3,000 and only 300 stores all around the world will stock it. The exciting collaboration promises to be a successful one, but for now all one can do is wait and long for more details about the design of the covetable watch.
Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14
Stone grey is the essential colour of the Marc Stone Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, which just showed at the Mode Suisse Edition 3 in Zürich. The bi-annual Swiss fashion event is all about presenting established and young Swiss fashion brands in a simple and elegant way.
The runway show of Marc Stone was dominated by minimalist designs and clear shapes. Classic dress shirts in dark green, checkered wool jumpers, long open cardigans and simple, yet elegant blazers were some of the designs. Quilted cotton piqué for cowl neck jumpers and soft pants explores new shapes and use of material. Fine tailoring and high quality fabrics define the garments.
Large grey and black weekend bags as well as backpacks of luxurious leather are the accessories for winter time and will protect anything inside from snow and rain. Classic, yet modern the collection shows versatility and is worthy of being part of any man’s wardrobe.
Hermès Fall/Winter 2013-14
The atmosphere of the Hermès Fall/Winter 2013-14 show resembled a romantic movie set inside place of the fashion show – the library of the Parisian Lycée Henri IV – with the models as its leading ladies. The French heritage of the Hermès fashion house and of its designer Christophe Lemaire showed in the chic and sophisticated designs of the collection.
Among them were ankle-length skirts, oversized blazers, V-neck jumpsuits, tailored trousers and a number of elegant white blouses. Leather for jackets and skirts was featured in all kinds of variations from croc leather to suede. The long and wide coats with stand-up collars were a highlight of the runway show. The trick of the styling was to casually layer coats, wearing high quality wool coats on top of large furry coats.
Many of the garments were adorned with black leather trims and various looks had black leather belts with classic golden buckles as accessories. The main colours were different tones of brown from dark brown to hazel, many shades of grey and of course black. Some accents of navy and bright red stripes brought a little more colour into the collection of clear shapes, which every woman can be looking forward to for the wintery season.
Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection pairs classic fits with playful details and from girly dresses with pockets to elegant gowns to wear on a night out, it has it all. While the collection started off with white garments making the models look like youthful ice princesses, the final dresses out of flowy fabrics had a more grown up feel to them.
A lot of pleats were seen throughout the whole collection. Whether on sleeveless shirt dresses, on jackets or blouses, it was all in the details. Among the variety of coats the highlight was without doubt the final piece – a wide furry parka in white, grey and black with a big hood, paired with a dress featuring an graphic black and white print of large tulips. The petals and stalks remind of spring time and bring back the memories of sunshine to the winter days.
Black, snow white and icy grey with a touch of a silverish shine were the neutral colours of the collection, while a warm brown as well as splashes of cornflower blue, bright pink and fiery red added more colour. Quilted leather jackets, furry collars, a button through skirt with fringes ending just above the knee as well as fringy hemlines on jackets and coats were essential to the collection.
Studio Africa by Diesel + Edun
Diesel + Edun just celebrated the launch of their collaboration entitled Studio Africa – a denim collection born in Africa. It is a 25 piece collection of womenswear and menswear, which finds its inspiration in African creativity. The denim collection is manufactured in nothern African countries with the finest CCI cotton from Uganda.
The initial idea for the collection came into being because of Diesel founder Renzo Rosso's and Edun founders Ali Hewson and Bono's passion for the African continent, while they travelled Uganda and Mali. The collection circles around a reinterpretation of the 70s four-pocket jean that was popular on the streets of South Africa. Malian textile patterns, Kenyan metalwork and embroidery reminding of traditional Zulu weaving patterns influenced the designs as well. To bring across the African spirit, the campaign of Studio Africa features nine African artists from the creative fields of fashion, film, music, literature and photography. The online presence of Diesel + Edun is curated by Okayafrica and offers a new platform to capture the continent's current cultural and political atmosphere.
The launch event in Paris included a dinner and party, where Solange performed as the advocate of Studio Africa. Among the many celebrities attending the party were Kanye West, Tilda Swinton, Adrien Brody and Ellen von Unwerth. The series of global live events in cooperation with the online music broadcaster Boiler Room celebrating the collection's launch is going to continue in Berlin. The invite-only event is taking place in Club P.O.P on the 7th of March. Other stops on the launch tour include Tokyo, London and L.A.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
The heavy red curtains at the back of the runway opened and out came a parade of models wearing what looked like a tribute to religion and its architecture. For their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana let themselves be inspired by the monumental mosaics of architecture of ancient Italian churches.
Portraits of religious figures from the mosaics of the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily were featured on the dresses and tops. The look of the holy imagery was completed by using glistening sequins, golden threads and embroided crystals resembling rubies and emeralds. The models looked gorgeous – red lips, pure skin, large glistening earrings and especially their golden crowns made their look untouchable, like they were religious figures themselves.
Key designs of the collection were large, but still very feminine coats and tops with wide sleeves. Apart from the range of opulent golden garments, a number of elegant pieces of grey herringbone fabric joined the collection. Mini skirts and high waisted knickers in black brocade or embellished red fabric were combined with wide shirts and blouses. The main colours of red, white and black reminded of some of the most important liturgical colours, but sheer lace dresses revealing the models' black underwear were not as innocent as rules of the Catholic chuch permit. Despite the current disputes surrounding the Catholic church due to the pope's resignation, Dolce & Gabbana well in using religion as its inspirational source and enriched the fashion world with yet another beautiful collection.
Flyknit Lunar1+ by Nike
To introduce the new Nike Flyknit Lunar1+ running shoe in Germany, the sports brand has thought of something special: The space inside Station Berlin is going to be transformed into an indoor running track, where the new trainers can be tested. The running track takes up a space of more than 10,000 square meters and while everyone interested can take the new sneakers for a test run, DJs will provide the right soundtrack. The whole happening is called The Nike Flyknit Experience.
The happening starts around noon at 12 on Saturday, the 23rd of February and continues for 12 hours until midnight. The entrance is free for all users of the Nike+ app, which can be downloaded from the Nike website or in Apple and Android app stores. The address of the Station Berlin is Luckenwalderstraße 4-6, Kreuzberg, 10963 Berlin.
Official Nike Facebook event page:
The Nike Flyknit Experience
Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2013-14
The key to Tommy Hilfiger's new Fall/Winter collection was to apply tailored cuts of menswear designs to a womenswear collection. The result is a range of sharp and sophisticated garments, that are wearable every day of the week. It was Hilfiger's goal to bring the 60s and 70s back, but in a modern way.
Tailored shorts and mini skirts serve as bottoms, while jumpers with V-necks and buttoned up blouses are the tops. The patterns of the collection include all kinds of checks – from Prince of Wales plaids to black-white-red houndstooth fabrics. But instead of keeping it simple, the different patterns are combined in each garment. Black and white checks meet deep red plaids, however in a way that it doesn't confuse the eye. The most used colours are dark red, camel, creme, navy and black.
The collection is all about outerwear and layering. Jackets and coats with leather or shearling trims for snowy days are versatile and easily combined with any other piece to be worn beneath. Chic shoulder bags with golden chains as well as high boots finish off the look.
Lacoste Fall/Winter 2013-14
The whole audience was literally in the dark when it came to revealing the new Lacoste collection at New York Fashion Week. Darkness filled the Lincoln Center Theatre just before the show was about to start and the light only crept back in when the wall at the back of the runway slowly started to fold itself apart piece by piece.
The square design of the impressive scenery reflected the clothes' designs. Square patterns and horizontal stripes adorned the structured garments. Almost all of the tops featured extremely wide sleeves that got tighter around the wrists. One of the key fabrics of the collection is the same as that of sweatshirts – cotton piqué. Only here it is used for tops, trousers and dresses, while quality wool makes for cozy turtlenecks and jumpers. See-through raincoats and neon silver lining give a water-repellent protection for rainy days.
The sweatshirt dresses feature knee-length skirts in the style of slightly loose pencil skirts with slits to bare a little more skin. For men classic wide coats and or deep green parkas in a military look are some of the key pieces. Apart from lots of white and grey with graphic prints, the main colours are a bright orange, a range of deep greens and a luscious blue. The finale were a couple of leather dresses with clever zipper details that proved once again the timely and modern spirit of Lacoste in the year of its 80th birthday.
ASVOFF Saint Petersburg
Flowing skirts and dresses with flower applications flying across the screen, girls running through enchanted gardens and dancing in a round on green meadows. Dita Von Teese performing one of her shows in a pair of Louboutins covered in glistening Swarovski crystals. This and much more is fashion film. It's a broad category of film making that deserves its own festival. “A Shaded View on Fashion Film” is taking the stage in St. Petersburg the 16th and 17th February. Presented by Diane Pernet and the Aurora Fashion week it revolves around moving image making in the fashion industry and offers interesting screening as well as inspiring talks.
Celebrating the 140th anniversary of the Levi's 501
The night before the Grammy Awards the party already started – with a special anniversary celebration. The Ace Museum hosted the 140th birthday party of the much-loved Levi's 501 model, which was first designed and worn in 1873.
The exclusive event featured intimate performances by M83 and Frank Ocean, who won two of the esteemed awards the night after. Among the 600 guests were Alan Cumming, Michael K. Williams, Zoe Saldana, Solange Knowles, Rumer Willis and many more.
Saldana and Knowles were spotted wearing polka-dotted looks, while quite a few of the stars resorted to wearing their own pais of the celebrated Levi's model. Whether it was a new pair or a torn version as seen on Rumer Willis, L.A.'s celebrities rocked denim.
The setting of the party was an installation tracing back the history of the Levi's 501 in all its variations leading up from the very first version to the new coloured 501 in fierce red. Photos of famous personalities from various decades wearing Levi's jeans accompany the denims dangling from the wooden beams of the installation and it is already certain that this is not the 501's last birthday, but that there will be many more to come.
Guess Jeans Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
For the new Spring/Summer Campaign of Guess the creative director Paul Marciano chose a typical summery setting: White sandy seashores, clear turquoise water, leafs of green palm trees and beach huts.
Two girls and two guys are stranded on the island of Bora Bora, discovering the picturesque shores and native culture. Light dresses in soft colours and tight skinny jeans are worn by the girls, unbuttoned denim shirts bare the fit upper bodies of the male models. The atmosphere of the campaign is supposed to be sexy and a little steamy, focussing on the relation between the female and male models. The campaign was shot by photographer Yu Tsai and the song is “Jump Off“ by Silver Bullets.
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2013
2013 is the fourth year the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is being awarded. This year’s winner is British shoe designer Nicholas “Nick” Kirkwood, featured in ZOO Magazine #21 for his unconventional footwear designs. Five different designers were shortlisted, but Nick Kirkwood was chosen by the jury to receive the fund doted 200,000 pounds.
The professional business plan he had drawn up with his business partner Christopher Suarez vowed the judges and of course also Kirkwood’s unique designs and ability to create a modern line of accessories.
The prize includes a mentoring programme developed by the BFC to help Kirkwood to make the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand. Kirkwood is graduate of the renowned Central Saint Martins design school and his first collection was launched in Spring 2005.
Carhartt Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
Urban cityscapes and tall industrial buildings in the architectural style from 1960 til 1990 remind of Detroit, but are in fact from the Italian city Bari. Amongst Calabria and Naples it’s one of the three cities where the new ad campaign by Carhartt Work In Progress was shot.
The short film entitled A Golden Light Underneath My Car is by Alexander Basile, who already worked with Carhartt WIP in previous seasons. The new Spring/Summer 2013 collection is placed in the context of young people spending a laid-back afternoon in the otherwise so stressful life of urban cities. Friendship is seen as the only anchor in the fast paced environment we live in.
Leandro Cano Fall/Winter 2013-14
A shining addition to Berlin Fashion Week was the collection of newcomer and emerging designer Leandro Cano. He was the winner of the 2012 Designer for Tomorrow competition by Peek&Cloppenburg Düsseldorf, which was hosted by Marc Jacobs. The financing and presentation of Cano’s first collection was a worthy price for winning.
White and creme as well as bordeau are the main colours of the collection. Almost every garment has delicate ceramic pieces attached to them. Sometimes on the shoulders, sometimes on skirts or even on tights and leggings. Unusual for something made out of cloth fabric, the ceramic makes the collection seem fragile.
Some pieces are made out of clear plastic resembling rain capes. The designs as well structured, mostly highlighting hips and sometimes shoulders. Another essential piece is the peplum top. Patterns of flowers entwine around the models’ bodies adding a playful touch. Furry details on the back of the white garments remind of little angels’ wings. The models themselves look more like sinister mermaids with wet hair, who just broke through a surface of water, now wading through fog near the water’s edge.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013-14
Prints of little bikes, colourful flowers, the Virgin Mary and other religious symbols cover Dolce & Gabbana's delicate fabrics in their Fall/Winter 2013-14 menswear collection. The two Italian designers devote their collection to “devotion” itself. Whether it being religion, family or love, all of those were the inspiration for the new collection.
Fine black suits, jackets covered in white lace or flowery embroidery look chic and romantic. The romantic feeling is reflected in the setting of the show, with roses on the walls and chandelier shedding a dim light over the catwalk. The simple shirt of light fabrics like poplin with crew necks and wide sleeves can be seen as a key piece. Its appearance on the runway is continuous, but in all thinkable variations with handworked details.
Street casting very young to middle-aged Sicilian men was the right way to achieve a sense of authenticity. The difference of not only age, but also body type and ways of walking didn't matter. Instead it left an impact and stayed with the viewer long after the show.
Z Zegna Fall/Winter 2013-14
Smart city men taking a stroll outside. “Urban Wanderer meets the Great Outdoors” is the theme of Z Zegna's new menswear collection, sending guys with slick hair down a path that resembles a trail of countless wooden pieces leading through a forest.
To return dedicated craftsmanship and to make yesterday and tomorrow meet was the goal of the collection. A great number of different fabrics was used, from knitted wool, quilted cloth to heat sealed fabrics. Raincoats, classic coats with fiery red inlays and floor length scarves have a certain coolness to them, while variations of brown and red give the collection a warm look. With this show Paul Surridge proved once again how he is able to reinvent classic garments and redefine them. A great escape from the hectic urban life it was.
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013
This was the second Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior by Raf Simons. The collection started with references to the New Look Dior himself created in the fifties, but only in a more spontaneous and thus more modern way. This was also a chance for Raf SIMONS to show the house's magnificent techniques by the atelier. Even if the pleats on the dresses looked rather whimsical, it was done with so much care and savoir-faire, Fresh colors were used on lucious silks as they draped fluidly over the models' bodies.
Raf SIMONS chose a garden as the scenery of the collection, a strong notion for the house, considering its love for flowers. Flower motifs and petals were used decorating a couple of dresses. Some parts were rather sensual, with figure-hugging shapes and slits on provocative places. The whole collection can be considered as a meeting of the graphic and the feminine, with sharp suits and color-blocking on the one side and airy dresses on the other.
There was more then one reference to the past in this collection. Sometimes it looked a little bit sixties, sometimes it veered into the fifties.
Dries van Noten Fall/Winter 2013-14
It seems like a lovely idea to wake up one day and realize you're a rock god in the sixties. That was exactly the metamorphose that happened to the Dries van Noten man of fall/winter 2013-14. Like a modern Jim Morrison in Paris, he walks confident in his pyjama-shirt or ethnic robe, wearing it with studded jeans that were made to look like leather. Fuzzy and loosely fitted sweaters added a layer of warmth to a collection showing quite some neck and chest to enhance the nonchalant and louche aura. Silhouettes were sometimes slightly (and sometimes not so slightly) oversized. Some jackets' shoulders extended way beyond the ones of the models but with their striding strut and wit in layering, it only added to his coolness. Dries is a master in mixing patterns and materials, some combinations would have failed completely in the wrong hands, but the way he did it can only be described as emotional and liberating.
Climbing Mount Everest with Bally
In Milan the menswear fashion week for fall/winter 2013/14 began and Bally outed a collection ready for the coldest of winters. Fur being the material pur sang for keeping warm, this collection had plenty of it. The first look, a leather parka with a fur collar worn with fur hat, mittens and boots, set the tone. The creative duo behind the brand, Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz, took inspiration from the first men who climbed to top of Mount Everest succesfully. One of them, Sherpa Tenzing, was wearing Bally boots at the time. The rugged look of the fur boots and heavy duty outerwear was mixed with heavy knits and sportswear. Colors remained natural with browns, greys, burgundy and touches of yellow.
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Space like silhouettes mixed with fishing style thigh high green boots provided an interesting yet stylish combination at the Jean Paul Gaultier FW14 show during Paris fashion week. The just landed to earth from space theme continued with large headpieces, glitter leggings and metallic silver high boots before transcending into full blown dark silver space suits. London’s Punk rock scene was referenced with the amalgamation of tartan, Mohawks and leather. The collection continued to seek influence from London with large union jacks seen on bomber jackets, floating skirts, matching top and trouser combinations and short dresses.
Louis Vuitton at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Louis Vuitton FW14 show paired complimentary silhouettes and applied a relaxed yet stylish aesthetic to their collection. Luxe and luscious fur was used in a toned down way, opting to apply it to an oversize biker jacket cut with a leather middle belt and ultra-modern shiny leather was seen on skinny trousers, long croc coats and strappy zip up croc leather low cut vests. This was contrasted with 70s references made through geometrics printed onto shirts and tops paired with brown and orange skirts and turtle necks, providing a strong and understated look.
KENZO at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Varying patterns and colours clashed at KENZO FW14. A creative approach to layering was seen through corsets worn over tops, wide structured skirts worn over patterned suits and straight short skirts worn over trousers. Classic geometric Kenzo prints were worn alongside inventive padded black suits and a long padded black coat. The collection was wearable whilst adding a certain energy to a wardrobe.
Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Balenciaga FW14 show presented a contrast in textures and the creative use of zippers as accessories. Shapes were played with by contrasting oversize silhouettes with cross patterning. Continuing the inventive theme, bright interwoven stripes were applied to sweaters and bright neons were worn with striped knitted dresses. The show provided both outlandish options as well as more demure pieces to create something special.
Viktor & Rolf at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Viktor & Rolf got creative at their FW ’14 show, presenting numerous shapely cut long grey dresses, rope style cable knit patterns accessorized onto overcoats, tops and dresses and black buckled creeper style platform shoes. Shapes including faux bustiers and sheer material were inventively applied to jumpsuits and dresses. The designing duo managed to incorporate a sense of originality into a largely shades of grey colour palette and played with classic sophistication with the use of loose fitting velvet and blazers with thick cable knit sleeves, it excelled in elevating simplicity.
Day 1: Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Delicate pastels, structured silhouettes and snakeskin shoes were at the forefront of the Gucci FW ’14 show during Milan Fashion Week. The show displayed an array of uniquely cut dresses and luxurious fur coats in a colour palette that transcended from playful pastels to deep burgundies. Metallic silver details embellished deep black dresses and magnificent knee high snakeskin print patent boots.
Day 5: Marni, John Richmond, Trussardi, Missoni and Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Marni FW ’14 show presented at array of ostentatious excitement through the use of large fur pieces, layered ruffles and colour blocked, turtle neck dresses. It seemed like anything and everything provided inspiration for the collection as interestingly patterned matching two pieces were displayed alongside exaggerated zip up jackets and oversize trousers. The show contrasted large all fur colourful pieces with clean and structured lines to create a collection that catered to all.
Bringing a new level of sophistication to the classic suit, the John Richmond FW ’14 show epitomized menswear elegance with a powerful rock ‘n’ roll edge. Blazers were detailed with wording and a multitude of prints to play on the traditional suit while a pair of tight fitting bright red leopard print jeans were combined with a lavish black fur bomber jacket to provide a modern edginess. Richmond’s use of kilts, tight leather trousers, exquisite face motifs and sleek silk lined suits fused modern culture with classic refinement.
High class chic was translated onto an array of sleek black leather, shiny metallic silver and casual blue material at the Trussardi FW ’14 show. University wear was referenced through school – badge style motifs and rich, warm sweaters contrasted with seductive leather and the use of metallic. Platform shoes were worn with ankle baring trousers and above the knee skirts were accompanied by oversize sweaters to create a laid back elegance.
The Missoni FW ’14 show saw the warm fall colours of orange, yellow and brown transcend into wintery blues, greens and greys. Finished with a Bohemian edge, the collection comprised of straight, fur – collared winter coats, colour blocking and spotty leather ankle boots. Colour was clashed on structured coats and mini dresses while strong silhouettes and the playful use of texture exemplified urban chic.
Opened by famous supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing an all-black silver studded ensemble, the Philipp Plein FW ’14 show adhered to its ‘American Dream’ theme with an array of matte-black leather, soft fur and rock ‘n’ rock studs. Cowgirl culture was referenced through leather fringing, cowboy hats and high – collared buttoned up cowboy shirts while still remaining modern. The use of bright red tartan on coats and dresses and black sparkly pieces added a high end luxe without losing the rock edge.
'8 Pieces' by Claes Iversen
Claes Iversen is proud to present this season's graceful collection: '8 Pieces‘: a tribute to the brand's signature of authentic couture, the luxurious use of materials and an eye for detail. The eight looks are made of high quality fabrics in bright colours and tailored in fragile, female silhouettes. Elaborately embroidery techniques of beads, crystals and sequins are combined with laser-cutted plexiglass shapes and compose floral patterns.
Jean Paul Gaultier at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
Not far away from the Jean Paul Gaultier headquarters, at 'Le Comédia' -an old Parisian theater- the French couturier's show took part on wednesday night. The theatrical spectacle was inspired by cabaret and French Revue from the twenties and thirties. And a glamorous Burlesque-themed performance started, when it‘s showgirls flounced down the runway wearing feathered and butterfly-shaped headpieces.
Black satin costumes were followed by multi-coloured tight wasp waists, corsets and net-laced dresses made of semi-transparent light fabrics. As a big surprise Dita Von Teese closed the show.
Hermès at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The dark and sober collection by Véronique Nichanian had more understated luxury than ever. Almost anonymous, the collection featured slim suits with simple tops and slouchy coats with set-ins of sleeve just balancing a little bit below the shoulder. Black leather and furry or shiny surfaces were reoccurring motifs, as was sport. Although the latter never took over the collection, touches could be found in hiking-boots, parka's and most decisive: a puffer jacket. In crocodile leather that is.
Saint Laurent Paris at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Mentioning rock and roll when talking about Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent is pretty much old news. Music, in all it's forms, is more than incorporated in the designers approach towards the fashion house. The soundtrack to his most recent outing was by the band Froth from Slimane's current whereabouts in Los Angeles. Coming fall, Saint Laurent Paris boasts Teddy Boys as the iconic men of the moment. Animal-prints were used on shirts and leather jackets and the shoe of the season was an updated creeper. Big coats in fur or tweed oozed subcultural excitement as well as traditional savoir-faire. The tailoring took note of the fifties youth-culture with three-buttoned suits, drainpipe legs, houndstooth, checks and classic trenches in gabardine or leather.
SOPOPULAR at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Berlin-based menswear label SOPOPULAR took to the runway unveiling its fall/winter 2014/15 collection, aptly entitled ’X’. For the anniversary show designer Daniel Blechmann created 18 looks as a retrospective of seasons past and showcased his personal favorites, all adhering to the modern and severe aesthetic that has defined SOPOPULAR so far. Blechmann’s opening look is a manifest to the entire collection: a head-to-toe look in all black consisting of relaxed leather pants, a tank top as well as semi-transparent raglan long sleeve
A leather harness – exclusively designed for SOPOPULAR by designer Marina Hoermanseder – topped off the outfit. At the center of the collection are jackets and coats in manifold variations. Here, a loden cape in poignant army style deserves a commendation. When it comes to pants, SOPOPULAR updated classic cuts such as slim cigarette pants or straight-legged Marlene Dietrich style pants to fit smoothly fit the collection. The all-time favorite Dr. Martens completed each raucous look.
Boris Bidjan Saberi at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The poetic collection Boris Bidjan Saberi showed for this fall and winter came from his vision on the Ottoman Empire and Topkapi architecture. At the same time it was the designer's most essential collection to date, taking his aesthetic and perfecting it with refined tailoring. The balanced collection sported some more athletic details like rucksacks and sneakers as well as subtle prints and long wraps, nonchalantly draped over sharp leather jackets.
Henrik Vibskov at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Henrik Vibskov always has an array of ideas that he can easily distill into one collection. This Fall/Winter collection reunited nomadic hats, round shoulders, florals, ethnic decorations and much more in a collection that remained consistent from beginning to end. The use of a mesh-nylon material made it easy to create volume while staying light, another technical endeavor was the fabric that looked like origami-folding on shorts and ponchos.
Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Dries van Noten looked extra confident today when he took his bow after the Fall/Winter 2014 mens presentation. And why wouldn't he? His past seasons have not only gathered him raving reviews but also a loyal fan base and he just delivered another stellar collection. Instead of exploiting the formula he is known for, he took his core and moved on. There was still an aloof and bohemian spirit to the clothes, but Dries infused it with decadence from the sixties and seventies and more surprisingly: neon. Tie-dyed pants and jackets, victorian blouses and furs were all energized by colors as fuchsia, green and lemon. New was the graphic patchwork on flowing parka's and biker jeans.
Y/PROJECT at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Glenn Martens outed his first menswear collection for Y/PROJECT and proved he no longer is a young designer; he delivers like the grown ups. The Belgian designer took over the house, where he started as an assistant, after the death of founder Yohan Serfaty. The collection started with a pair of big leather trousers and a slim jacket that was impeccably structured and slightly longer, hitting the leg just around mid-thigh. This made for a new and modern silhouette, highlighted by a sober color palette of black, grays, whites and browns. A Functional streak can be found on jackets with multiple zippers, big collars and pockets attached with small hooks, marrying decoration and practicality. Some of the best looks were seemingly simple; jeans and at shirt, but revealed Martens' ingenuousness on the back with a pull-up system forming a Y-shape on the back as a modern logo. The same system was applied to rethink the starkness of leather in a bomber-jacket. Although this was an avantgardist collection, sometimes a classic air found its way with suits almost nodding to a traditional three-piece suit.
22/4_hommes at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
22/4 presented their fall/winter 2014 menswear line in Yoyo in Palais the Tokyo, which now is a popular nightclub but once functioned as the famous cinémathèque. The collection was an exercise in urban sleekness and rigorous brutality. Oversized coats and baggy suits were cinched by colorful elastic bands or wide cummerbund-style belts. Other sporty outings were jogging pants and cropped sweaters, worn over crisp white shirts. The brutality set in with hats, jackets and backs of vests in natural fur. The bomber-jacket, the item pur sang to survive the urban jungle, made several appearances, first draped nonchalantly over a suit but later the recognizable orange lining saw itself transformed in bags and accessories. The balance in those extremes made for an collection both aggressive and delicate.
Versace at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At Versace, looks are young, free, provocative and unafraid. Under the theme 'The biker is the new cowboy‘, unbridled masculinity will dominate Fall/Winter 2014. Leather pants, fur motorcycle jackets and silk shirts are embellished with wild fanciful prints and appliqué patches showing the classic Versace hardware. Key chains, sheriff badges, motorbike helmets and charm bracelets underlined the new spirit. 'I wanted this collection to be a celebration of individuality and the freedom to be whoever you want to be, in the face of all the oppression in the world right now', says Donatella Versace.
Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Jil Sander showcased a delciate and subtle collection playing with the senses of structure, surface movement and colour. It almost begs the viewer to touch it‘s shimmery fabrics and promises a haptic experience. On the contray, purple cashmere sweaters with geometric knits create a rather flattering atmosphere. This season‘s tailoring resembles to well-known Jil Sander aesthetics: silhouettes are neat. Boxy jackets on top of slim cutted cigarettes pants dominate numerous looks.
Alexander McQueen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
As an absolute highlight of second day at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014, fashion label Alexander McQueen showcased a tribute to the brands -very british- loyal high quality tailoring. Sarah Burton's choice of location and soundtrack underlined the collections dark sprit: staged in an old church and accompanied by Bauhaus's 'Bela Lugosi Dead', the collection itself was almost entirely black, sometimes paired with silver or gold accents. Sharp tailored suits, plaids and skinny trousers layered with kilts and skirts got highlighted by John Deakin's photo motive of painter Lucian Freud digitally printed on shirts and long double-breasted coats.
SEEK at Kühlhaus Berlin
Under the theme 'We look towards pop culture for inspiration; we're influenced by sub-cultures, books, youth movements, films and art', the genuine fashion trade show SEEK will warmly welcome the Fall/Winter 2014/2015 season during next Berlin Fashion Week. Since the trade show was founded in 2009, within this exhibition, SEEK will celebrate it's 5th anniversary. Creative Director Oliver Saunders and Fashion Director Maren Wiebus, therefore, chose the unique location Kühlhaus to present 90 selected international brands including Barbour, Billionaire Boys Club, BBC Black, Gourmet, Duffer Japan, Cheap Monday, Our Legacy, Property Of, Puma Collaborations, V Ave Shoe Repair and so on, to an ever-growing audience. As all of them stand for something close to SEEK creators' hearts and find it's inspiration in their surroundings, influenced strongly by music and art, the issuing labels represent authenticity, quality, design and function.
SEEK is on from the 14th till 16th of January 2014 between 10am and 7pm at Kühlhaus Berlin, Germany.
GUCCI's 'Cruise 2014'
Inspired by the vibrant South American temperament of Rio de Janiero, Creative Director Frida Giannini designed the exclusive 'Cruise 2014‘ womens' collection, an ex- clusive insight of must-have travel essentials for the modern GUCCI woman. The collection expresses opulent nonchalance, euphoriy, yet a strong glamourous appearance picking up 70ies styles of the Italian traditional house of GUCCI. Feminine overalls in wide silhouettes and slightly oversized proportions are combined with waist belts, among elegant evening gowns and the new kimono-wrap dress made of exclusive silks. Next to glamourous highlights some sporty influences conquer the GUCCI cosmos within bomber jackets, basketball-inspired T-Shirts and the FRIDA Shirt, the first time Giannini's name appears on one of the brand's designs.
The collection is especially characterized by using various high-quality materials, such as silk, featherweight crêpe de Chine, suedes and cashmere. Some pieces are made of shimmering hand-embroidered iridescent gold and silver sequins, more casual garments are adorned with Macro-Paisley-prints. Photographed against an orange, purple and pink sunset image, the whole colour palette of the collection ranges from exotic colours through to rusty and copper nuances, as well as metallic, silver and bronze shades. As expected, the Cruise 2014 is not missing out on three suitable handbag lines: The 'GUCCI 58‘, which customizes the charming looks of the season's collection. The 'Harness' combines the design of the GUCCI Horsebit with traditional craftsmanship, whilst the brand's outstanding characteristic bamboo detail gives an elegant allure to the feminine 'Hip Bamboo'. Metallic high-heel sandals and the Espadrilla wedges complete the looks of the sporty- glamorous women's 'Cruise 2014' collection.
Take a look at the whole collection on
The Madeleen- Bugaboo by Kaviar Gauche
The iconic Dutch pushchair brand Buga- boo teams up with avant-garde designer duo Kaviar Gauche in an ultimative collaboration of 'The Madeleen', a stylish and suitable must-have bag for a modern mother. As the brand Bugaboo stands for mobility and innovative design, this accessories sets new standards, especially for the mother's everyday use. The inspiration for this magnificent, yet handy bag came within a workshop of 'It-mums' of the German media landscape, who represented the potential customer and gave direct input of how an essential bag for a modern woman should be and look like. Kaviar Gauche incorporated these informations into the design process and created a bag made of luxurious black soft nappa leather combined with suede. The eye-catcher bag combines the classic tote form with the duffel bag look, has a removable bag-in-bag with various inside pockets and a zip, which separates the base from the rest of the bag.
'The Madeleen' will be available online from November 2013 as a limited edition of 300 bags.
REPLAY's Laserblast Club Capsule Collection
On Wednesday, 23rd of October 2013 Italian denim and casual wear brand REPLAY celebrated the launch of it's Laserblast Club capsule collection at the ‘Terrassensaal' in Munich in collaboration with VICE. Stunning British singer Charli XCX -who is the protagonist and new face of this collection and just released her first album ‘True Romance' - highlighted this very special event with a vivid live performance, accompanied by flashy computer graphics and laser beamer video projections.
The new REPLAY AW2013-14 line combines club culture with denim, but also points out technological progresses, en- viromental responsibility and eco-oriented thinking. Through using the Laserblast technology to get the typical denim aethetics, REPLAY doesn't need to use big amounts of water, energy and stones or sand to wash the jeans, as the wash is literally put onto the jeans by a laser. Watch the video teaser of Charli XCX for the REPLAY Laserblast Club Capsule Collection on
Dr. Martens x Gavin Watson
Certainly one of the strongest claims to counterculture, Dr. Martens boots with their trademark yellow stitching, grooved sole and heel-loop have defined a specific look. Countless rebellious streams, subcultures and tribes have adopted the style, which accompanies the journey towards-self expression. Aside from the boot itself, the brand has incorporated accessories and apparel into its collection. Enter renowned British photographer Gavin Watson.
He has been deeply involved with British subculture since adolescence and has documented the scene in his intimate photographs. Born in Northwest London in 1965, Watson started taking pictures at an early age. By the time he was 14 he had become a skinhead and immersed himself into this world of Dr. Martens, 2 Tone and Madness. Through all of it, he documented his buddies‘ shenanigans as well as those of his ‘muse‘ - his brother Neville - through the lens of his camera. Publications such as ‘Skins‘, ‘Skins and Punks‘ and ‘Raving ‘89‘ showcased his work to the world and have prone luminaries from Terry Richardson to Shane Meadows to hail him as a genius and even credit much of the look of the 2006 drama ‘This is England‘ to Watson‘s work.
For the Fall/Winter 2013 season Watson will present a capsule collection of limited edition printed T-shirts, which feature images from his vast archive. The images are captioned as ‘Nev flying the flag outside the Watson house in Hawthorne, High Wycombe‘, ‘Dean Spencer outside Camera Press, Coram St, Russell Square, London, 1981‘, ‘Nev’s sky blue Sta Press and Docs, Carnaby St. London‘ and ‘The Wycombe Marsh mob, Wycombe Marsh, 1981.‘ The shirts will be available in two different fits, for men and women respectively and will be available from Dr. Martens own retail stores and online from October.
CHANEL at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
At Paris Fashion Week SS14 CHANEL showcased a vivid, optimistic and cheerful collection that linked art and fashion and manifested the creator‘s attitude towards a symbiosis between both. Karl Lagerfeld showed elaborate looks in the brand‘s cult fabric tweed embroidered with muslins, organza and laces, often frayed and torned. Spring/Summer 2014 at CHANEL will be dominated by a colour palette of blacks and whites next to pink, blue and yellow shades. Elements of the traditional costume got assembled in a new design and combine flowing, asymmetric and deep décolleté‘s with wide or slim silhouettes. Handbags, rings, bracelets and a new interpretation of the legendary pearl necklace completed this remarkable look.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Kenzo for Spring/Summer 2014 staged a unique and impressive runway set with a huge waterfall installation and splashes synchronized with the music beat in a rather unusual neighbourhood for a Fashion Week Venue: the suburb Saint Denis.The collection was speaking the true vocabulary of nonchalance and effortlessness. Laid-back streetwear was combined with a strong manner of japanese aesthetics and modern fashion.
The two young designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon managed to showcase a purist sense of permeability found in masculine cuts and sporty silhouettes. Sleeveless blazers, pleated pants and midriff blouses with fishes and waves transformed in graphic patterns were the key elements of most of the garments and illustrated Kenzo‘s affection for outstanding prints. The base colour of most of the pieces was a strong blue and lilac on a black and white base. Besides making a strong fashion statement, this show also committed to a strong political awareness regarding ocean pollution and overfishing.
A.F. Vandevorst at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
With the sand still in their hair and with rattling Bedouin jewelry announcing their arrival, it was clear that the A.F. Vandevorst woman for Spring 2014 was a nomad at heart. Slouchy silhouettes based around semi-transparent sarouels were anchored by dramatic collars and tailoring, while beading and metallic touches made the collection more sophisticated. This collection marked the 15th anniversary of the brand by An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx and the collection featured some flashbacks, but at the same time it offered plenty of new propositions.
Iceberg at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
On the third day of Milan Fashion Week the label Iceberg showcased a collection that reflected japanese pop culture and manga aesthetics. Young, fresh and modern were the key words, that young, talented designer Alexis Martial reached out for. He highlighted his stunning pieces by hologramms, prints and embroidered colourful patches, that showed the design of an abstract Iceberg. The collections colour base throughout was dominated by bright colours, white, mint and a light blue made of materials such as neoprene, silk muslin, rhodoïd bands and ultra sheer nylon knit fabrics, that were a product of a special textile process. Martial‘s mission to bring the house of iceberg to a new great dimension succeeded.
Philipp Plein at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Philipp Plein‘s show at Milan Fashion Week has been a spectaculous highlight opening with an exclusive live performance of "Work“ by Australian rapper Iggy Azalea that combined the two worlds of Hip Hop and fashion. With a cast of only black models the german designer wanted to commit a statement towards breaking barriers and rules. Stunning beauties arised the runways in studded baseball jackets made of Nappa leather, striped socks and mini-pleated skirts all dominated by black, white, pink and blue colours and flashy metallic shades. Lacy night gowns made of translucent chiffons created a feminine-chic styling combined with eye-catching highlights of Swarovski crystals.
Gucci at MFW Spring/Summer 2014
The traditional Italian house Gucci on first day of Milan Fashion Week conquered the runway with pieces that blazed abroad nonchalance, femininity and elegance. Creative Director Frida Giannini based her collection on slight athletic influences matched with glamorous intricate finesse. The repeating key elements were bra tops wrapped in straps, leather-edged kimonos and low waist dresses with V- slits made of high-quality materials and sophisticated techniques, such as silks, plissés and chiffons, based on blacks as well as multi- coloured and gold shades. Highlighted by refined ornaments and sparkling sequins, this collection was truly in the spirit of Art Nouveau.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi showcased a collection dominated by gaudy, graphic and geometric patchwork prints and floral patterns. Being well known for hand crafted effects and precise cuts, the designer duo draped feminine and sporty dresses, skirts and parkas with vibrant silhouettes.
A pink glaze on the runway harmonized with pastel pink and blue colour palette, as well as strong neon pinks and yellows. Remaining true to the Rave spirit Preen is known for, second phase of the show brought up numerous futuristic looking pieces made of transparent high- tech fabrics, semi- sheer plastic raincoat textures and metallic foil.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Spring/Summer 2014
For this SS14 womenswear Creative Director Andreas Melbostad, who is a former student of London’s Royal College of Art, showed off a duality of pieces in black, white and pastel colours. Diesel Black Gold’s edgy-chic look got highlighted by a range of dresses, skirts, blazers and tops with metal eyelets, zippers and buckles. Besides french braids created a girly, soft and romantic look. Appealing to a rather sophisticated and cosmopolitan clientele, Meldbostad succeed with showing numerous pieces in denim and leather, as well as assimilating silk georgettes in this collection. All in all his goal was to show “a new ease of attitude by combining opposing icons to express strength and fearlessness“.
Station to Station: A Public Art Project Made Possible by Levi's
This friday, artist Doug Aitken will commence his new project “Station to Station: A Nomadic Happening”, which will connect artists, musicians and creative pioneers of different disciplines. With help from Levi's, the brand that has been outfitting pioneers for more than 140 years, Station to Station will raise funds trough ticket sales and donations in order to support progressive projects in seven museums in the United States.
A train will go from New York to San Francisco during three weeks, making stops at ten different places along the way. While there, a series of happenings and interventions in the fields of art, music, cinema, literature and many more will take place. Doug Aitken designed the train that will act as a cultural studio and that will globally broadcast unique content and experiences from both the stops and the moving train.
Creatives participating in this project are among others: Charlotte Gainsbourg, Kenneth Anger, David Longstreth of Dirty Projectors, Olaf Breuning, Ariel Pink, Connan Mockasin, Peter Coffin, Urs Fischer, Meschac Gaba, Liz Glynn, Carsten Holler, Christian Jankowski, Dan Deacon, Savages, Dave Hickey, Barney Hoskyns, Rick Moody, Alice Waters, Leif Hedendal, Edible Schoolyard Project Aaron Koblin, Ernesto Neto, Jack Pierson, Stephen Shore, Rirkrit Tiravanija and Lawrence Weiner. For more information, visit www.stationtostation.com
Replay Design for Barça
‘Més que un club’: the slogan for the FC Barcelona says it all. Renowned for their flair in play, Barça are to team up with Italian company Fashion Box – the forbearer of Replay and its sister brands – to initiate a four year partnership as sponsor of clothing and footwear for the club’s sportsmen and women. Under the project, Replay will design an official clothing line, alongside a smart-casual line for the first team. Most celebrated for their innovative use of denim and characteristic indigo textile, the label will reinterpret the orthodox jeans philosophy in the fine lines of tailoring, resulting in a collection of unique and inimitable fashion pieces. More than a club? There’s no question.
Mykita Opens Store in New York
Debuting their directional eyeware in the USA for the first time is Berlin-based brand, MYKITA. Adding to its list of worldwide locations that includes Paris, Zurich, Vienna and Tokyo, the New York store now marks the eigth retail space opened by the brand. Set in the heart of SoHo, the new MYKITA store overhauls a space in Crosby Street's defunct art deco factory building, retaining its original character with its industrial finish.
Almost an art installation in itself, the merchandising of the boutique is unique to the eye of MYKITA, drawing upon the concept of mass-production and ready consumption to construct an ambiance that is both inordinately stocked and astonishingly minimal. The store will offer pieces from their main line alongside a covetable capsule collection exclusive to 109 Crosby Street.
Bottega Veneta Opens New Los Angeles Concept Store
Descending on the distinguished surroundings of Melrose Place, Bottega Veneta will open its doors to the most neighbourly luxury retail quater of Los Angeles with a freshly conceived concept. Its ivied façade left virtually untouched, the interior of the 2, 727 square feet store will tailor to discerning L.A tastes with sleek displays intergrated into a gallery setting, designed to strip down the artistry of each product to its bare essence. Displays will be curated to impart a selection of ready-to-wear, leather goods, jewelry, gifts and home accessories succinctly, with emphasis on a tailor-made shopping experience for its clients.
Sliding steel fixtures and mesh panels will industrialize its pristine white shell, opened up by its flooding light and clean lines. The vision of Creative Director Tomas Maier, unexplored design combinations based on clarity and space set the boutique apart from its relations. Transparent resin imbeds mesh for a futuristic feel, while white frosted glass and lacquered wood enhance the sense of slenderness – a touch taken even further with the addition of its open-air courtyard.
COS to Launch Capsule Sterling Silver Jewellery Collection
With the visionary beauty of their last capsule collection still on everybody's minds, masters of minimalism COS are to launch a sterling silver jewellery collection, hitting the shelves this October. The limited edition line is to comprise of five key pieces; a ring, bangle, necklace, a stud and a hanging earring, each purified to a simple geometric shape for a clean-cut look that is typically COS.
John Varvatos Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Graciously composed in timeless black and white, the John Varvatos Fall/Winter 13 campaign stars American music legend Wilie Nelson and his sons in what makes for a beautifully fashioned family portrait.
Shot in Des Moines, Iowa by photographer Danny Clinch, Willie, Lukas and Micah – each an established musician – pose nobly before the stately architecture of Salisbury House. Embodying the strength of Varvatos' collection with his compelling presence, Willie's sense of style permiates through the images, as his own boots partner the black Hampton tuxedo and wing-collared shirt.
A short film accompanying the campaign will also premier the John Varvatos website on July 9th, in which the Nelson family perform the song Still is Still Moving to Me. Conversation cuts guitar-playing in this mini-documentary, which affords an intimate insight of music and memories – three minutes just doesn't seem long enough when watching this tender portrayal of a truly treasured musical icon.
Isabell de Hillerin Spring/Summer 2014
The beautiful and talented Isabell de Hillerin put forward a smart and relaxed collection for spring/summer 2014. Her label stands for elegance, structured cuts and details which remind of an old tradition. She works with fabric manufacturers from Romania and Moldova, a traditional artisan industry on the verge of extinction, which she is supporting. In her spring/summer 2014 collection, titled 'relief', embroidery either accentuates shoulders and necks or adds intrigue to clear cut shorts or shirts. The color palette spans from white, grayish beige and light lavender to a strong tangerine and royal blue with some black pieces in there. All allude to a midsummer day, when a brewing storm forecasts the imminent relief from the heat of the city. Isabell de Hillerin's designs balance this forceful color story in their almost masculine elegance: sharp Bermuda shorts meet ornamental shirts, wrap-around blouses, strong shift dresses and two pieces. Flowing skirts, deep v-necks, thigh-high slits and geometrical cut-outs add a subdued sexiness to the collection. The urban summer vibe once again showed when the models carried their pretty high heels in hand for final runway, strutting along to Bon Iver's 'Skinny Love'.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Nike Air Max Camo Collection
In tribute to the countries that have taken the Air Max trainer to the status of an international icon, Nike are to release a collection in a spectrum of country-specific camouflage prints.
First hitting the pavements in 1987 as a sports accessory, the Air Max now stands as a streetwear symbol of self-expression. Vintage camo prints from France, Germany, Italy, Japan and the United Kingdom will emblazon a range of styles, from the Airmax 1 to 180.
Design isn't the only element to be reinvented. Function, too, recieves a makeover. Nike Hyperfuse technology employs heat and preassure to form a single layered material, designed for stability, breathability and durability. The result delivers a lightweight product, packed with performance and without abraisive seams.
The Nike Air Max Camo Collection is available from selected retailers from July 3rd.
Vladimir Karaleev Spring/Summer 2014
Off-white, beige, taupe, dark blue and black – Vladimir Karaleev's world in colors. For his spring/summer 2014 collection he cut off delicate silk and chiffon, having the hems appear unfinished. In stark contrast, he teamed these pieces with sturdy jackets and pants, achieving a soft but cool look. Karaleev stuck to his tried and tested wide and loose silhouettes throughout the collection. However, with his delicate choices and sheer panels, sex appeal does not fall short. His combinations of almost tone-in-tone pant, top and waistcoat or jacket call for a windy summer by the sea, and his blue and black styles are a perfect update of the urban summer uniform.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Kaviar Gauche Spring/Summer 2014
Nothing says Spring like white organza, sweeping through the air like a soothing breeze. Collared up to the neck, it still whispers of the sun and freshly cut grass. Florals make an appearance – or perhaps not – only the negative space of their cut-outs can tell. Fine blossom appliqué parades sheer T-shirt dresses, while laser-cut petals perforate shell tops and fitted skirts.
Butterfly sleeves are fitting for the occasion, spreading their wings over light mini dresses and breezy silk jumpsuits. Save the intermittent flower motifs, ornamentation is scarce and color similarly subdued, allowing pleated folds and keyholed fabrics to stand up and be heard.
Dolce&Gabbana Childrenswear Fall/Winter 2014
Sometimes the best things come in small measures. No less could be said of Dolce&Gabbana’s latest childrenswear line, which proves every bit as good as its ‘parent’ ready-to-wear collections.
For girls, fun-size florals and mosaic prints flock simple sleeved shift dresses, paired with matching jewelled headbands and flower crowns to complete this season’s scaled-down runway look.
Boys and girls alike receive a wintry dose of heritage plaids, adorning statement separates in preppy cuts, satchel in hand and ready to tuck in a crisp white shirt. Checks take shape in all sizes, from gridded black woollen coats to trousers in Royal Stewart tartan.The collection offers pieces to cater for both conservative and contemporary tastes, saving room, of course, for a satiating helping of Dolce leopard print.
Valentino Fall Couture 2013
The Wunderkammer – that was the inspiration behind Valentino's Fall Couture show; a European renaissance phenomenon to keep an encyclopaedic 'cabinet of curiosities'. And what a treasure trove it was, each piece singular in its beauty.
Emerging from the cracks of scalloped lace, fine silk prints presented watercolor motifs in strokes so gentle they looked almost antique. Staghorn coral, chiseled stone and intricately embroidered birds were all part of this enchanting museum, cased by unadorned interludes in dusty camel shades. Lantern sleeves broke from tradition, still feminine against the resplendent bracelet lines for which the label has become known.
Velvets jarred with sheer speckled mesh, while tapestry coats provided a heavy cloak to the ankles. A beautious touch of chinoiserie made herringbone seem eclectic when stood in allignment, but it was the finale gown that brought it all to life: thick roulette straps tied at the shoulders to suspend the masterfully restrained blood-velvet bodice, picked tightly to the waist before falling into its arresting flare, as if spilling with the curiosa of the Wunderkammer.
Kilian Kerner Spring/Summer 2014
The first day of MBFWB drew to a close with the spring/summer 2014 show of Kilian Kerner. “HÖR NICHT AUF MIT TRÄUMEN” – don’t stop dreaming – is Kerner’s claim for next summer which he emphasized unconventional elements. Minimalist cuts were countered by vivid prints and a wild mix of materials. Graphic print combinations as well as gleaming metallic elements found their way onto shift dresses. Bare midriff tops combined with swinging skirts or laidback pants and shiny leather waistcoats on top of dresses met slim suits with bold leather details and floor length evening dresses with glitter effects. The juxtaposition of Kerner’s refined and elegant designs and the footwear of choice – the Nike Air Max 90 – made for an exciting and current overall look.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
IVANMAN Spring/Summer 2014
The label IVANMAN has been around since 2010. The menswear collection is characterized by clear lines, minimalist silhouettes and graphic geometrical details: a testament to the label’s balancing act between classic and avant-garde designs. For spring/summer 2014, the deliberate reflection of the present as a time of change served as inspiration. For designer Ivan Mandzukic, fashion is a social phenomenon, which he is trying to break down into its pieces, analyze these and create new clothes with them. The color scheme for spring/summer 2014 ranges from softer white, camel and rose to grungy black. This contrast between soft and feminine and harsh, masculine attributes is evident throughout the entire designs. Stand out elements of the unusual collection were certainly the body belts, baring the models’ backs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Hien Le Spring/Summer 2014
Once again, designer Hien Le’s show kicked-off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection showcased Le’s signature minimalist designs for men and women with distinct features, such as collarless styles and invisible buttons. The collection embraced the designer’s familiar pieces such as bomber jackets and impeccably tailored men’s shirts. Fabric choices ranged from airy silks to sturdy outerwear material. For spring/summer 2014, Hien Le has moved a little outside his monochrome comfort zone in experimenting with expressive prints: stylized dragonfly wing images are sprinkled throughout the collection. The color scheme for next summer ranges from off-white and beige to an almost violet light blue and bright red combined with salmon.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2014
Damir Doma s/s 2014 commenced with a passage in white, like he started with a clean slate. Structured jackets with broad bands in the waist were combined with wide shorts and T-shirts with sleeves that reached the elbow with high-waisted pants. After white a bright blue came around, sometimes with appliqués of photos on it. Some jackets were made from a material that can be best described as a big exotic skin, maybe a python. There was a practical side to the collection when emphasis was put on bombers, overalls and heavy cotton cocoon coats. The three closing looks were coats and jackets in a thick jacquard material in the deepest shade of purple.
Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2014
The centre of the Dior Homme stage was a labyrinth of mirrors which the models entered after their walk on the catwalk. This divided the collection up in all sorts of fragments and worked as a collage of shoes, clothes, bags and faces. This faceted attitude was also visible on the clothing. Graphic appliqués were taped on the jackets, coats and pants like a 21th century stained-glass window. The inspiration for this came from a trip the designer, Kris van Assche, took to Miami, where Art Deco is omnipresent. The effects that produce a mirror was also used in the accessories, like in a bag that seemed elongated. All in all, the collection brought a certain strictness that can constitute to a full wardrobe, but which never becomes too formal.
Jean Paul Gaultier Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In stead of choosing for an runway show, Jean Paul Gaultier decided to present his collection with a video in his iconic rue St-Martin townhouse. Gaultier is known for his provocative ideas and they were still there: bondage-influences, skirts and see-through fabrics but the collection was also full of fine tailoring and subtle casual-wear. Some ethnic influences made the collection light but they never took over the collection. Big stars were the sandals with elastic bands, which were both minimalistic and exotic at the same time.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2014
John Varvatos stole the wardrobe of a gentleman and tore out all the stitches. A blurred squint may kid the eye that it was seeing a refined silhouette, but by the splintered raw edges alone, it’s obvious the promises were all empty. Frayed silk scarves slip under suits, their sheen a side-effect of colour washed hue.
Spare a tight-fisted dash of navy, monochrome prevailed – like the shows of his peers. Varvatos’ distinction, however, was self-governed style; subscribing not to perceptible trends, pieces appear to keep wearability in mind. That’s not to say they will not trail blaze – just, perhaps, without the customary peacocking.
Canali Spring/Summer 2014
If the Canali show didn't have a place in the heart of the modern gentleman, what possibly could? Impossibly suave in every which way, Canali tailored relevance into tradition.
Fabrics so quaint they could have been ripped from the pages of a novel, ticking stripes and toile crawled from back-room lining to center stage. Suits, all the while immaculately cut, went from razor-sharp to roughened by the sweep of natural cloth. Pastel shades went to override their more confident counterparts, the primary hues, making for a collection that harks back to the past, with an eye firmly on the future. 'Nostalgia' was not the word. 'Renewal', though, speaks a thousand truths.
Golden Dinosaurs at Louis Vuitton
Keep a look out for some new additions to Louis Vuitton's 5th Avenue Maison store – the Pre-Fall/Winter 13 collection now shares its window with some rather special paleontological finds...
Gold dinosaurs mingle with mannequins in a wholly inventive merchandising of clothing and accessory lines. A play on the exhibition at Paris's Les Jardins des Plantes Natural History Museum, Velociraptors and Tyrannasaurus Rex were given luxury makeovers. With skeletons sprayed gold, Vuitton bags hang from hands, teeth and tails, as exhibition plaques provide satirical annotation to displays.
Costume National Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Monochrome, it seems, was on the brain when design season came around for Milan. This time led by Costume National – and what a costume it was.
All-leather suits earned their place in a wardrobe outside of the '80s, in fringed black and with stetson in hand. Cowboy boots filled in the cracks left by their trademark stitching, re-emerging as baby-smooth ankle-highs, fit for the modern day Spaghetti Western.
Drainpipe pants purified the look in unblemished white until canvas tones wore through, making way for the pigment-bright shots of aqua and sunshine yellow suits. Such a performance can only be topped by the casting of gold lamé, which gave the show its roaring encore to a dress code that impishly specified black-tie.
Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star
Legendary graffiti artist Chaz Bojorquez and Converse have come together for a first-time collaboration. Bojorquez is of Mexican descent, but was raised in LA. Mexican-American “cholo” style graffiti from the 1940s and the harmony of Asian calligraphy are strong influences on his style. During the 1960s, he started his artistic work on the streets of the city. When he drew in East LA, the classic 1970s Chuck Taylor All Star was part of his uniform. Now, an edition of the sneaker will be a testament to his art.
The Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star features his signature skull tag, dubbed “Señor Suerte“, on the tongue and his scripts cover its inside. The insole features a black and white image of the artist at work under the cover of night. Keeping with the understated design, the shoe will be available in midnight black with suede heel caps. Other elements include nut-and-bolt style eyelets, vintage weave laces and a screen-print of Bojorquez' signature.
On Friday, June 28, the Converse x Chaz Chuck Taylor All Star will hit the Converse store in San Francisco with Chaz Bojorquez in attendance.
Iceberg Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
In an unforseen twist on proceedings, the announcement of Frederico Curradi's promotion to become the first Creative Director of Menswear at Iceberg just hours before their runway show discernibly gave pace to the catwalk presentation. He will work by the side of artistic director Paolo Gerani, who said of the appointment, “never before in our history have we named someone Creative Director of our brand. There’s a remarkable creative affinity between Federico Curradi and me.”
And with a sportwear theme, he hit the ground running: practical edges meet a high-design finish, resulting in a look that is altogether modishly wearable. Curradi's love of art, meanwhile, pierces through like a javelin, evident in his masterful colour blocking and restrained application of complimentary color. Firstly priming the canvas with a wash of heavy blacks, it was the stealthy flickers of orange and blue that gave an electrifying shock of hue. Elaborate print featured just twice, in an outburst of cubist proportions. Exposed zips funciton as the only forceful detail – a wink to industrial design at that – fusing together the two dimensions of the collection's philosophy: performance duality in urbane design.
Escada Sport Spring/Summer Campaign 2013
Set against the infinite turquoise of the ocean skyline, Escada Sport's Guatemala-inspired Summer collection paints an equally breathtaking view. The campaign, photographed by ZOO's very own Bryan Adams, frames model Sara Blomqvist with the scenery of the promenade, with white walls and palms providing a graphic motif.
The relaxed beach vibe is embodied by motion, as floor-skimming pajama pants catch sail of the wind. Slouch-fit seperates billow with the breeze, though light summer knits in the hottest of pinks certainly make for a lustworthy windbreaker. Bandeaus and monokinis keep swimwear style subtle, but busy patterns keep the eye entertained. Pure ice-whites provide respite from color, amplifying hues like stained glass. Print, all the while, emblazons with stripes of all species: plain rigid lines , graduated batiks and stencilled florals weave through aztec grids – a souvenir from a Guatemalan summer.
Damir Doma Resort 2014
Damir Doma is known not for flouncy detail, but more his rather austere sense of line. Femininity and severity are tricky things to balance, so Doma may have struck gold with his working forumula.
Welcomed as the womenswear guest of Pitti W 12, the Giardino Corsini al Prato in Florence set the backdrop for Doma's eloquent 2014 Resort show. A tone resonant in the very first look, an elongated shift dress envelopes the body with the characteristics of paper. Blocked color on crepe silk takes the theme further, in asymmetric cuts that just miss the fold line. Concealed fastenings allow the fantasy to live on, as paper bag waists and unblemished edges create the incredibly believable impression of origami construction, while cold-shoulder cutouts tear in just the right places.
A restrained colour pallette pulls focus to detail. The royal purple and jewelled fucshia tones reign over swathes of monochrome check, but the steadfast sovereign is, by far, page-white, for its impeccable execution of crisp, statched folds.
London Collections Men: Day 3
The last day of London Collections: Men and by no means the least, ushering the riches of menswear to the forefront in the form of Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford, to name but two. The schedule again promised an eclectic mix of established and emerging talent, kicked off by Shaun Samson – one of St Martin's most recent protégees.
Pulled-back embellishment left for a sense of clean line in Samson's latest collection. Powdery pastels laced between heavy monochrome, fueled by sparse doses of their pearlescent cousins. Fabric flipped between sheer and solid, with neoprene overrulling barely-there organza. The few drums of print hit like a snare, as numerical motifs punched through slack-fit knickerbockers.
The feeling at Nicole Farhi was equally subdued. Ice whites and mineral blues went reasonably unadorned, yet a neutral color-scheme offered a suprisingly vast spectrum of shades. Breaking the pallette, texture proved key, as rib-knits were paired with mesh and brushed wool, with longline coats the sole interjection of recurring print.
Bringing his show to a conventional showspace for the first time, little else was run-of-the-mill about Nasir Mazhar's runway show. Sweatshirts said 'streetwear' but holsters said 'workwear', as urban utility rolled out fashion's most unsuspecting trend.
Making the cut at James Long and Christopher Shannon was high-octane leather. Long fused graphic stripes into open-knit weaves – a complementary contrast to the optical prints whose skin-tight stretch delivered a subtle scuba vibe. Shannon's designs were equally spirited, with laquered hair to match laquered shorts. Where silhouette stayed simple, fabric was experimental.
'Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby' in Tokyo
Landing in Tokyo last week – just in time for the Great Gatsby film premiere - was the travelling exhibition Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby. Renowned for her collaborations with husband Baz Luhrmann on such visual feasts as Strictly Ballroom and Moulin Rouge, costume designer and art director, Catherine Martin, once again exercises her meticulous eye for detail as the visionary behind this year's most anticipated adaptation, with Miuccia Prada also at the creative helm.
Curated by New York studio 2x4, the collection showcases the elaborate gowns, shoes and accessories that dressed the stars of the movie – an absorbing viewing that is only enriched by the archive of sketches and backstage footage presented alongside.
Each show is uniquely tailored to its location. At Tokyo's Prada Epicenter, bespoke mannequins reflect the conceptual interior design of Herzog & de Meuron, while full scale body portraits of the actresses in costume bring The Great Gatsby to life in an experience that is at once ascertainable and unbelievably cinematic.
Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby runs in Tokyo until June 30th.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2014
When women's creative director Julie de Libran personified the muse for the Louis Vuitton Cruise collection as “the effortlessly chic French woman”, it all fell into place.
For the directional aide of the lookbook, boxy shapes are color-blocked and ditsy florals layered, yet standalone pieces work for showboats and wallflowers alike . Breton stripes and two-piece pantsuits tell of a confidence to flirt with androgyny, while soft-sheen fabrics take drop-waist sillhouettes to offset the balance back to that of an understated sense of femininity. Floor-skimming hems scream 'bohemian nonchalance', while fluid lines draw the eye along the outskirts of chic, simple tailoring – only to be jarred by the dense and oh-so-charming awkwardness of clunky wooden clogs.
Whether in jacquard or silk, denim or bouclé, de Libran takes a tour of France through a textured palette that is both fresh and in-keeping with Marc Jacob's boudoir-laced Fall runway designs. French or otherwise, the Cruise collection is, indeed, “effortlessly chic”.
Mulberry opens first Vienna store
Luxury British heritage brand Mulberry has opened its first store in Vienna. Nestled in the heart of its Golden Quartier district, the newly unveiled retail space reinforces the brand's growing authority within Europe, with plans to branch out into other major cities accross the continent in the near future. The store stocks its signature leather goods for both men, with seasonal ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories from the Mulberry womenswear line. Vienna will also become home to the exclusive one-of-a-kind Del Rey bag in Black Alligator.
Founded upon the impeccable craftsmanship of rural England in 1971, Mulberry has earned a reputation for construction of the highest quality, harmonising aspects of timeless tradition with contemporary design.
Over 262 square meters, the new store – designed by British architects Universal Design Studio – pays testament to Mulberry's roots. Swathes of bare oak, timber and limestone lend the location a warm, rustic charm, while accessory accents like white linen dressing tables prove irresistibly quaint. Ringing from the window display is the nostalgic song of the beautifully handpainted music boxes, playing melodies both English and Viennese alike. British pianist and choral director Catherine Field-Leather was called upon to rearrange Hey Jude and London Calling for these playful renditions.
In celebration of the opening, the store will host Afternoon Tea 'with a Viennese twist' each Saturday in July between 2-4pm, when visitors can experience a fusion of quintessentially British and Austrian taste.
Jason Wu for Hugo Boss Womenswear
Jason Wu is to take up a newly established position at Hugo Boss, as Artistic Director of Womenswear. The role will see the designer assume the creative direction for all product and image aspects of womens' ready-to-Wear and accessories by Hugo Boss. While he continues to design for his own line, Wu will open a design studio in New York, while taking charge of his team at the Hugo Boss headquaters in Metzingen, Germany.
His creations will make their debut during the city's Pre-Fall 2014 season, with his first runway show taking place during Fashion Week in February. Choicely working with a designer known for such a distinctly feminine aesthetic, the label described the appointment of Wu as a chance to shift focus to the female side of the brand. Speaking on his new role, the designer expressed admiration for the label's remarkable tailoring, adding, “I plan to develop a strong, feminine womenswear collection that reciprocates the brand’s authority in menswear”.
Chiara Mastroianni for Fendi Perfume
On screen, Chiara Mastroianni's raw spirit radiates from a smile shrouded in mystery. It was only a matter of time, then, before the compelling charm of the actress would render her a muse. A new fragrance by Fendi is to be released this September, inspired by Mastroianni's unique femininity. The launch of the fragrance closely shadows Mastroianni's role in the film Bastards by Claire Denis, in which she features alongside Vincent Lindon this August. Magnetism must run in the blood, it seems, for the daughter of two cinematic icons. Her timeless elegance echoes that of her mother – legendary actress Catherine Deneuve – who fronted the Chanel No.5 campaigns in the '70s, while her alluring disposition owes distinctly to her father, Marcello Mastroianni.
Proenza Schouler win Womenswear Designer of the Year Award 2013
From the half-way point of 2013, the fine details of awards ceremonies gone by seem to get lost and prompts us to question whether or not we've seen it all before. One award, however, evokes a particular sense of déjà vu. Last night's CFDA Fashion Awards crowned designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler with the title of Womenswear Designer of the Year. The evening surely brought back memories for the two designers, who were first honored with the title in 2007, and once again in 2011. Other winners of the evening included Oscar de la Renta, who was praised for his “life and work” as he recieved the Founders Award. Breakthrough talent was also earmarked, as Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis were recognised for their emerging label, Suno. As the curtain fell, one thing was clear – here was an award ceremony that would certainly prove difficult to forget.
Givenchy's family values
Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy gathers his artistic family around him for the house's fall/winter 2013 campaign. In front of the camera we see Amanda Seyfried, Quim Gutierrez, Dalianah Arekion, Mariano Ontanon, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and her mother Carine Roitfeld, who also is the womenswear stylist. Other family members we find behind the camera are photographers Mert Alas et Marcus Piggot, menswear stylist Katy England and hairstylist Luigi Murenu. The campaign, in black and white, is about love and family values and shows the different people of the Givenchy-clan.
Tisci tells about the campaign: "The story goes on: on the set and outside the set with my family, Mert & Marcus, Luigi, Lucia, Carine, Katy… These people are my family. They have always believed in me. They are very faithful to me. Faithfulness and love are the most amazing things in what I want to do. I think it is a moment of history for me in fashion for my own gang. I want to credit each time the people that are very faithful to my style, and faithful as human beings. This time, there is a gypsy feeling because it is the inspiration of the collection. Again, the reality of someone like Carine with her daughter showing real love or Quim with Amanda is very special to me. All of them, including the models, are real gypsies in their own life. They are never in one place. They travel the world. It is a real relationship, not only physically, but also with a content even when far away…”
Once Upon a Time by Karl Lagerfeld
Imagine the French village of Deauville in the year 1913. It is also the same year that Coco Chanel opened her first boutique on the Rue Gontaut Biron, marking a milestone in fashion history. Those years before the first world war were years of glory and glamour, in its purest form.
To promote the Chanel Cruise 2013/14 collection, Karl Lagerfeld takes us back to those days. He created a black and white film starring Keira Knightley and Clotilde Hesme as curly-haired salesgirls in the back then brand new store of Gabrielle Chanel. Topmodel Lindsey Wixson also makes an appearance as the all-admired beauty from the city. The movie will be released on the 8th of May on the Chanel News website at the exact same time the Cruise collection will premiere at Loewen Cluster in Singapore on May 9th.
Prada Journal: A Place for New Stories
In search of new artistic talent, luxury fashion brand Prada has decided to launch a literary contest and shed light on the writers of tomorrow. Joining forces with the Italian publishing house Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Editore, Prada will be exploring language and the art of writing.
The rough theme of the contest is the individual interpretation of reality and how optical devices such as glasses and their lenses frame this reality. The question Prada poses is: “What are the realities that our eyes give back to us? And how are those realities filtered through lenses?“ Writing pieces are supposed to guide the readers through these realities and create worlds of written words.
The contest is now open for entries and the last date for submissions will be the 18th of June.
Skies and Beyond by Bottega Veneta and Nancy Lorenz
Something very special was presented by Bottega Veneta at their Milan store during Salone de Mobile. The luxury fashion house revealed an exclusive line of 25 boxes created in collaboration with the artist Nancy Lorenz. After launching the “Lunar Landscapes“ box collection in 2003 and the “Botanical“ collection in 2002, ten years later the new collection seems to be a worthy follow-up. Its name is “Skies and Beyond“.
Each box is made out of wood and is covered in leather or suede. Rare and valuable materials such as white gold, leaf gold and mother of pearl are used for the lid. Every lid looks different and no box is the same, making each box a unique. Those 25 boxes are the perfect storage space for precious things, while they serve as fancy decoration in any room they are placed in.
Nancy Lorenz, who also lived in Tokyo for five years, found inspiration in the handicrafts and use of unusual materials in traditional Asian arts. She is the perfect fit for such a collection, which is all about detailed hand work. All the boxes are numbered and are available to preview on the official website, where one can also order them with the help of personal shoppers via a phone.
Nicola Formichetti joins Diesel
It has barely been 48 hours since Nicola Formichetti annouced via his Twitter account that he will be leaving the French fashion house of Thierry Mugler. As everything changes at lightening speed in the fashion industry, his next move has already been revealed: Formichetti will be the new artistic director of Diesel, joining Renzo Rosso's legacy.
As an influential social media star, Formichetti plans to gain a following and create a new Diesel community via the online platform of TUMBLR®. They call it the DIESELREBOOT, the project will go live these days.
It is expected that Formichetti will bring fresh energy to the Italian label and reinvent the brand, just as he did with Mugler. The world is still left to wonder how this change will look like.
New Saint Laurent Store Concept Berlin
After the opening of the new Saint Laurent store in Shanghai, the Berlin store also awaits a new concept. The design and architecture of the store is by Hedi Slimane and turns the 530 square meters of shopping space into a hall of white marble and large black tiles.
It marks the transposition of techniques and materials of French art deco. The store is located at Kurfürstendamm 52 and will carry not only womenswear and menswear collections, but also accessories.
Soulland Meets Babar
The Danish fashion brand Soulland’s new collaboration has something very unique up its sleeve. The garments are covered in prints of the infamous elephant Babar, the grey big fellow in the dapper green suit. Babar driving a car, Babar trying on suits, Babar having his shoes shined. This elephant has style.
Whether it’s a colourful allover print or a sketch-like black and white drawing, the elephant is everywhere. The collection features simple T-shirts, sweatshirts, shorts as well as button-down collar shirts with short and long sleeves. The colours of the 100% cotton fabrics are kept simple in white, grey and black.
The first time the original art work by Jean de Brunhoff became popular was back in 1931 and has been well-loved all around the world ever since. However, Soulland can prize itself in being the first menswear brand liscensed to make use of the art work. The collection named ‘Soulland Meets Babar’ will launch at Collette on the 3rd of April and will be available in selected concept stores worldwide by mid-April.
100 Chairs: L’Arte Ritratto by Marni
The Design Museum London has just announced that the charity project entitled ‘100 Chairs: L'Arte Ritratto‘ by Marni has been nominated in the category 'furniture' of the Designs of the Year 2013 awards. It is the only fashion brand nominated. The winners will be decided by a jury on April 17th.
It's a collection of various chair designs, which were then brought to life and put together by ex-prisoners in Colombia. The aim of the project is to support and re-integrate prisonders into social and working life. The furniture style is common with Colombian families, but Marni took a modern spin on the classic chair designs by creating new woven patterns and colour combinations. The chairs' structure is made out of metal and colourful PVC threads.
Two models of the chairs will be exhibited at the Design Museum located at 28 Shad Thames in London from March 20th until July 7th. The opening times of the museum are daily from 10-5.45 hrs.
Mykita X Damir Doma Fall/Winter 2013
The outcome of the first liaison between Mykita and Damir Doma was the DD01 model for Spring/Summer 2013. With round glasses and mixing materials from horn to steel and metal, those glasses are one of a kind. Available as sunglasses for soon-to-come sunny days, the DD01 is hitting stores right now. After the successful collaboration of Mykita and Damir Doma, the fashion brand and millinery designer decided to work together again.
For Fall/Winter 2013 a new range of glasses will be released. There are three new models: the DD02, the DD03 and the DD04. From the DD01 til the DD04 it’s like watching an eyewear evolution and seeing one idea develop into the next. Throughout the whole collection the designers remain true to the aesthetic concept of using contrasting materials and creating visual contrasts in colour. The main material in the mix are stainless steel and acetate, which is a cellulose-based fibre. The circular lenses are manufactured by traditional lens maker Zeiss and available in different colours from brown to green. The DD02 and the DD03 are similar models, but the later one has an extra steel bridge linking the round lenses together. The DD04 puts its focus on the sculptural structure and organic form of the acetate. All of the models remind of a reboot of glasses from the 30s. Damir Doma called the second collaboration “the end of the first cycle of products“. This spawns a lot of hope that there are still many cycles to follow.
Chanel Fall/Winter 2013-14
A massive globe was placed in the middle of the Chanel runway for the Fall/Winter 2013-14 show. Celebrating the opening of the first Chanel store one hundred years ago, the white Chanel logo was pinned onto the globe’s surface marking the location of 300 Chanel stores in cities all around the world. The show and collection displayed the power of the luxury fashion brand and none other than Karl Lagerfeld could phrase its theme better: "It’s a tribute to the global Chanel."
Even the floor of the Grand Palais had a the seven continents on it, so the models in Chanel’s garments were literally on top of the world. The collection had many dark shades to it – black, grey and navy instead of white and bright colours. Mini skirts, stand-up collars and skirts with unzipped zipper details played a huge part into the rebellious feel of the collection as did accessories such as clunky silver bangles, metal chains as necklaces and fingerless mesh gloves. Gold was replaced by silver, from metallic thread to steal chains gracing leather boots. Simple and clear A-line shapes were combined with overknee leather boots looking almost like leather leggings.
There were a variety of fabrics, but as always the classic Chanel bouclé and tweed still found their right place in the shapes of tailored jackets and coats. The double length coats – short in front, but with a below-knee tail – was one of the key designs of this season. The collection looked more contemporary than ever and yet again Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the strong self of the Chanel woman.
Céline Fall/Winter 2013-14
A soft colour palette of nude tones defined the Céline Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. British designer Phoebe Philo chose a toned down, but elegant look for the Céline woman of the next cold season. Skirts that flared perfectly around the knees, creme V-neck dresses or ones with broad off-shoulder collars floated along the runway. Integrating statement jewellery into the garments and pairing them with tight overknee leather boots were a contrast to the clean cuts.
Amongst all those oversized coats one of them stood out in particular – that one coat that reminded of a dalmatian’s fur. A beautiful piece of clothing in white with a lot of furry black spots. It looked a little more eccentric than its counter part with creme spots, which fit more into the line of nude colours.
Elegant stand-up collars were essential to the collection, no matter if they were part of luxurious wool jumpers or checkered jackets. A few looks combined different plaids with each other in bright reds and blues. The collection came to a finish with a range of navy blue garments. Their designs reminded of the creme coloured dresses and so the runway show came to a perfect close.
Tilda Swinton for Chanel
Tilda Swinton is certainly one of those actresses who always fascinates with her unique personality as well as mysterious aura. ZOO Magazine #17 featured an exclusive interview with the eccentric actress and now Karl Lagerfeld himself chose her as the new face of Chanel's Metiers d'Art Paris-Edinburgh collection.
A perfect fit as her Scottish descent matches the inspiration of the collection. Lagerfeld photographed Swinton with her platinum blonde hair in an all-white ensemble of the luxurious collection. The final versions of the images will gloss the pages of magazines all around the world in early summer 2013.
Rebel Chique Diamonds by Royal Asscher
Only over the last couple of years the making of man-made diamonds has reached the right standards to be of use for the manufacture of jewellery. Unlike natural diamonds, the man-made ones might not come out of the depths of dark mines, but chemically, aesthetically and physically they are the same. Plus, man-made diamonds can vary diversely in colours, while in natural diamonds colour is extremely rare and expensive. This makes them especially attractive for the making of jewellery. The new diamond jewellery brand Rebel Chique wants to re-shape the way to think about diamonds. Instead of seeing diamonds as family heirlooms, they to create a new conception of diamonds being interchangeable high end accessories.
By making diamonds more affordable Rebel Chique wants to create the possibility to have new diamonds each season and for every occasion. However, man-made diamonds are not the product of mass production, but rather of craftsmanship. Before the launch of the Rebel Chique collection, ZOO Magazine was among the first 25 world-wide to receive an exclusive package showcasing one of the brand's diamonds. The company behind Rebel Chique is the Dutch Royal Asscher Diamond Company and since the launch of the official online store, the made-to-order jewellery is available all around the world.
Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2013-14
While not long ago the modern-day silent movie The Artist took film lovers all around the world back to the 1920s, this year it
felt like the Emporio Armani collection
did the same thing. Giorgio Armani's passion for hats came to play in his Fall/Winter collection and their resemblence to cloche hats brought
much of the late 20s feel with it.
The fashion show started off with three models walking down the runway simoutaneously, like three best friends taking a stroll through town. They smiled at each other secretively and played the audience's attention with flirty looks. The pairing of the three gorgeous looking woman made sense as all of them were sporting similar pieces of clothing. The clever technique of pairing the models up continued throughout the whole show, emphasizing the similarities and differences of the garments.
Essential to the collection were ankle length skirts with asymmetric cuts to reveal a little of the models' legs, wide pants of the same length and light fabrics, tailored and tight fitted velvet blazers, long pleated coats, off one shoulder dresses accessorized with glittering brooches, classic colour-blocking cardigans, grey jackets with a masculine fit, boatneck jumpers and dresses of a fluffy fabric as well as a range of stunning velvet dresses. The main colours were different nude tones from light blue to green that were in contrast to a dark grey. For velvets military green, brown, purple and a luscious red were the colours the collection used. There is no doubt that the atmosphere of the show and the whole collection were another highlight of Milan Fashion Week.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14
During London Fashion Week Vivienne Westwood took over the space of the Saatchi Gallery. There is always a rebellious feel and a punk attitude to Vivienne Westwood's collections and the presentation of her Red Label Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection was no exception.
A bright azure blue was chosen as one of the most dominant colour of the season combined with tones of red and black. Zebra patterns, plaids and stripes were reocurring patterns amongst many others. Tailored blazers and dresses with cowl necklines brought out a new femininity and elegance. Knee length skirts and loose trousers were key designs of the collection, while a few mini skirts and colourful shorts still retained a young and sexy spirit. A lot of shimmering fabrics were used for the collection. Highlights of the show were a long geometric cut coat with wide stripes as well as the colourful glittering zebra dress with the black tulle underskirt that seemed like the perfect frock for a punk princess.
The make-up of the models looked otherworldy, perhaps like a crossing between an Asian doll with procelain skin and a female clown. However, it made the models' looks all the more intriguing and beautiful with their full red lips and turquoise to yellow eye shadow. Be it the styling or the designs, Vivienne Westwood never conforms to what other designers do. It was no surprise that her ability not to abide by the rules and to go through with unusual ideas produced yet another unique collection.
Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2013-14
The designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler succeed in reinventing their label's indentity every season. This time they passed on using colourful fabrics, but instead focussed on a collection almost entirely in black and white, mingled only with some silverish greys and hints of peach and mint.
The collection of the two young designers is more elegant than ever before. Just as in a Haute Couture show, bouclé was used for jackets and fine lace for the final dresses. In addition high quality leather and feathery details appear throughout the collection. Essential to the collection are jackets with wide sleeves and knee-length skirts with slits in front as well as slightly shorter A-line skirts. A range of pumps with pointed toe caps, bows, laser cut details and not too high heels give the collection another classy touch as well as the slim square clutches the models carry under their arms.
Structured jackets and coats live from their asymmetric cuts that look good either way – worn open or fastened with big round buttons. The wideness and straight lines of the coats work very well together with the sleeveless dresses that accentuate the slim waists of the models. The garments look elegant, yet edgy. Sophisticated, yet subtle. Every fashion show it's a surprise what the designer duo comes up with and this collection proved again that it's always worth the wait.
Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
The new Miu Miu Spring/Summer Campaign was taken on by the photography duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Having shot many campaigns for fashion houses such as Dior or Yves Saint Laurent, this is yet another work to add to their long list of fashion films.
The campaign depicts seven women surviving in the modern world protrayed by important models of the current fashion scene, including Adriana Lima and Bette Franke. On the one hand these women seem strong and confident in furry frocks and leather gloves, on the other hand they look fragile and alienated in thin slip dresses. Their whispering, secrets and close relationships empower them, while they long for a retreat and a chance to daydream at the same time.
Especially Bette Franke leaves an impression, featured with fiery red hair and pale skin. The model reminds a lot of Monica Vitti's character in the Italian film “Red Desert” from 1964 by Michelangelo Antonioni. Isolation in the industrial world is one of the central themes of the movie and the same topic is challenged again with the stunning visuals created by Inez & Vinoodh.
Raf Simons and Fred Perry Spring/Summer 2013
After successfully launching his Dior Haute Couture collection earlier in January, Raf Simons’ new collaboration is just around the corner – with Fred Perry. The designer’s vision meets commercial fashion and spices up the traditional tenniswear. The campaign’s first teaser video was just released.
Three young men find themselves in a white spaceless place. In slow motion they are swinging their arms around and bobbing up and down the video’s frame as if they were performing a very slow dance. With their soft hair and pure skin they look like lost boys. Jump cuts harmonize with the choppy electronic music of screeching sounds and cracking noise. Stressed and scared facial expressions give the video a tense atmosphere, which is in a way contrasting the smooth look of the classic Fred Perry polo shirt.
Eccentric leopard patterns in grey and rusty-red as well as bold blue-black houndstooth patterns cover the shirts, while the collars often stay in a classic black. In other frames of the teaser, the shirts are worn in a layered fashion and colourful collars compete with each other. To truly pay tribute to the collaboration even the logo has changed: Not Fred Perry’s name but the one of Raf Simons is written below the brand’s signature laurel wreath.
Tim Coppens Fall/Winter 2013-14
Rebellious black bomber jackets and oversized coats are sported by young looking models with slim physiques and a whiff of coolness lingers in the air around them. Leather sleeves contrast dapper quilted fabrics. Once again Belgian designer Tim Coppens proved how excellent he is at designing versatile outerwear by presenting his Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection at the New York Fashion Week.
But that's not all there is to the collection. Smart white shirts with zipped up pockets and button-down collars or black turtlenecks of fine wool look fine on their own but are just as well combined with any other piece of clothing.
The black and white theme is continued throughout the whole collection with some grey and red accents. Black and white unite in a playful pattern that looks like someone took a spray paint can to white clothes and sprayed them with black paint at will. Tim Coppens creates garments that are true to a boyish spirit, but never stop to look grown-up as well. All in all it is definitely a collection men of all ages will be looking forward to for Fall/Winter 2013-14.
Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013-14 Preview
While it’s not even summer yet, Alexander McQueen is already realeasing a much sought after preview of their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Once again Sarah Burton has created a gorgeous collection, which will surely be a highlight of next winter’s fashion shows.
No matter if the look is elegant or playful, the cuts of the stunning floor length dresses or short dresses with skater skirts are to rave about. Crochet details, golden embellishments around necklines and delicate frills are only the cherry on top. As outerwear long white coats with furry details around the neck and sleeves as well as black leather coats with laser cut outs keep the wearer warm on snowy days. Apart from black, grey and white, frequently used colours of the collection are luscious reds and blues.
They contrast the pale skin of the model, who looks as fair as Snow White from a fairy tale book. It’s as if the whole collection is telling a story. Puffy white sleeves remind of tops worn during the reign of King Herny and his numerous wives. Others garments however remind of religious and priestly robes. The black leather boots can be seen in either an ankle or overknee version with white pleats peaking out. They remind a lot of musketeer boots with a broad strap and a great golden buckle. But even if some of the garments look otherworldly it never overshadows how beautiful they are.
Lanvin Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
When the Lanvin Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign was shot in New York City last year by Steven Meisel, the creative director Alber Elbaz was held up in Paris. But that didn’t stop him to be part of the shoot. After all he was only a Skype-call away.
The campaign video starts off like a normal ad, with the typical white Lanvin script and the music of pounding drums. Models like Karlie Kloss and Saskia de Brauw pose slowly and throw intense looks at the camera. The white-blue lighting gives the whole scenery a slightly cold atmosphere, but the garments including black suits, deep V-neck dresses and low-cut swimsuits seem all the more elegant.
Then suddenly the clip is interruped by the monotonous ringing of a Skype-call. Alber Elbaz is calling to check in. He’s immediately pleased, praises the looks of the models as “divine“ and can’t stop to express his enthusiasm. The light and humorous approach to the new Lanvin campaign will definitely make the viewer smile.
Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14
Golden light flooded the Galerie Thomas Schulte reminding of a setting sun when the Augustin Teboul Fall/Winter 2013-14 show took over the space during Berlin Fashion Week. The presentation of the German-French label’s new collection was more than a mere runway show, but an installation entitled Somewhen lasting for about two hours.
The title refers to the mix of ethnic influences from different cultures and times. Interesting headpieces such as turbans, broad-brimmed hats with fluffy pompoms or tight hoods with sparkly fringes catch the eye at once. The collection is all black and features diverse fabrics from black leather to delicate see-through fabric including sequin or furry details.
The models’ nude make up and stern facial expressions put all emphasis on the garments and create a mysterious vibe at the same time.
Philipp Plein Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
For the second time designer Philipp Plein works together with the renowned photographer Terry Richardson. Their aim was to produce an ad campaign showing sophisticated and strong protagonists reflecting on the brand’s one-of-a-kind identity. It’s also a tribute to contemporary women.
The backdrop is a modern version of the inside of Versailles. Dark wood panelling and bright neon light instead of candle light are the setting. The stars of the campaign are Brazilian transgender model Lea T, British model Poppy Delevingne and none other than Mr. Richardson himself. With their different looks and personalities, the two models show strength and sensuality in their own individual way.
From heavy jewellery, studs and black leather to delicate lace and silk the looks of the campaign are rebellious, seductive and luxurious at the same time. More pictures can be seen on the official Philipp Plein website.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
Sophisticated as ever Jil Sander presented her new menswear collection for Fall/Winter 2013-14. Minimalist designs make the collection what it is and show the Jil Sander man of next season.
Double breasted smart jackets and coats with lines of three round buttons are key pieces of the collection. Another great detail are the deatchable stand-up collars. They add a touch of formality wherever they are attached, from thick wool chechered coats to sleeveless black fur tops.
While most garments are kept simple in colour and pattern, the only reoccurring pattern is that of stripes – either regular stripes covering navy suits or diagonal ones accross woolen jumpers. Colours range from traditional colours used in Jil Sander’s collections such as black, grey, dark green and blue to a bright red.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
“The Cosmic Tour” is the title of the Diesel Black Gold menswear F/W 2013-14 collection, which showed in Milan earlier this month. It is taking major inspiration from the psychedelic style of guitar legend Jimi Hendrix and anything to do with interplanetary travel. The models remind of rock gods in eccentric dress and look like they are on a music tour – through the whole universe.
Geometric hexagon prints meet organic paisley patterns and give a clear contrast between structure and softness. From chic to casual, the collection has it all: Shiny chic suits for the night, sporty jackets for the day.
Bright reds, blues and greens are the dominant colours. Unique pieces such as big furry coats and waistcoats reflect the individual looks of the models: They range from long blonde hair over tousled full brown beards to tattoo covered necks like real rock stars.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Fall/Winter 2013-14
Persian-German designer Boris Bidjan Saberi goes all black again the coming Fall/Winter season and gives most other colours a pass. Black is the main colour of his new collection, with shades of grey or white making an appearance. Sharp cuts and clear lines define the garments. Jackets with a military feel and slouchy coats held together by belts are key pieces. These garments give the impression of clear structure and spontaneity at the same time. Striking are also the varied collars – from wide slouchy ones to high fold-over and hidden zippers on the side.
As always the designer focusses on detailed handcraft tailoring and uses a wide mix of fabrics. Leather is one of the essential materials of the collection, its use ranging from edgy black sleeves to elegant leather gloves. The look is finished off with sleek hair and woolen hats. In addition the models wear classic backpacks in the likes of cool college students.
Sunday night, the 27th of January, is also the book launch of Saberi's first monograph. The book is retracing his past eleven collections and is published by Atlante Libri. The launch party will take place at David Lynch's infamous Silencio club in Paris.
Rick Owens' angels of the street
Rick Owens returned to the street for his fall/winter 2013-2014 collection after some time spent in the couture-area. The balance he found this season was exceptional, starting with the way the hair of the models was styled. Long-haired boys had frizzed hair creating a romantic image as they passed with red or blond clouds flowing around them. The collection started with an A-line silhouette and big sleeves, making it at some point hard to tell they were soldiers or angels, or maybe both. Last season there was no trouser to be found, with the models only wearing floor-length skirts, but this season the skinny trouser made a comeback, tucked into big and chunky boots. Obviously, graphic forms are a staple in Owens' work, this time created by shrugs tightened around the shoulder and reveresed colars, pointing upward. Two oversized tanktops, one in stiff cotton and the other in black fur, made for exciting silhouettes, reminding of the collections back in the nineties that promised nothing but good to come for menswear.
The New Dandy
The year 2011 marks Gucci's 90th anniversary. In celebration of this milestone, Creative Director Frida Giannini “explored Gucci's codes from many perspectives reintroducing elements from the DNA with the 70s and the spirit of dressing iconic men as a reference.”
The result is a new dandy. One who loves to seduce mixing vanity and tradition. Soft mohair sweaters, tailored suits, subtle biker touches, rock 'n roll furs. The Gucci Fall Winter 2011/2012 Collection becomes a kaleidoscopic story where the only rule is a strong personality.
Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Fur was the material of choice at Alexander McQueen’s deeply dark and mysterious FW14 show. Adhering to the inspiration of ‘wild beauty’ the show was set in a seemingly derelict and deserted garden and showcased large jet black oversize sweaters and coats with fur detailing around the edges. Extravagant all fur hooded coats with matching boots and black and white long fur coats were displayed on models with doll like white painted faces. The show finalized with a compilation of straight textured figure hugging dresses that scraped the floor, it was dramatic yet demure.
Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Vivienne Westwood invited us into her vivid imagination and world of eclectic inspirations during her FW14 show. Referencing a capacious variety of influences, styles and cultures, the collection mismatched colours and patterns, exhibited bizarre blue face paint and clashed textures. We were given extravagance through fluffy, shapely, large overcoats and exaggerated top hats, it was spectacular! Possibly the most inventive designs came from the sheer, shoulder padded, turtle neck wedding dress and martial arts style wrap jacket paired with loose fitting trousers, boots and Red war face paint. Vivienne gathered her vast sources of influencers and compiled into a outlandish yet amazing collection.
Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Opulent elegance was apparent at the Lanvin FW14 show with just enough drama to make it spectacular. The collection hinted towards the extravagant with ruffled fabrics, heavily gathered material and head to toe fur pieces whilst still remaining wearable. Black leather long pleated and interestingly cut dresses epitomized the theatrics of the show. The 1920s were referenced through flapper girl style beaded head caps worn with refined silk knee length square dresses. This theme continued onto looks consisting of feather detailed large floppy hats worn with silk floor scraping dresses and sheer gloves. This was avant garde at its best.
Isabel Marant at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
The Isabel Marant FW14 show felt comfortable yet stylish and chic. The clothes consisted of different shades of army green, contrasted with the laidback, largely loose fitting material with a strong, militant power. Relaxed knits were paired with structured overcoats to add a sleek sharpness and a hint of dark glitter thrown onto jackets, skirts and tops gave a certain and very much needed perzaz. The show illustrated a relaxed army girl while still adhering to a high fashion look.
Dries van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
A bright pop of colour provided an exciting accompaniment to a fall/winter aesthetic during Dries van Noten’s Paris fashion week show. Clashing geometric patterns highlighted the designer’s innovative approach to using prints and sportswear references alongside bright floral prints provided a diverse winter wardrobe. Transcending into a darker colour palette, the show concluded with luxe metallic striped pieces, luscious black fur and space girl style sparkling silver.
Day 2: Fendi, Prada and Moschino at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Opened by Cara Delevingne wearing a long black overcoat with a hood flamboyantly lined with black fur and carrying a miniature Karl Lagerfeld, the FW Fendi show boasted an extraordinary range of colours, textures and excessive fur. Pairing thigh high black boots with oversized printed sweaters and large coats accessorized with luxurious fur, the show captured edgy elegance in a dazzling array of black, brown, deep blue and orange.
Asymmetrical prints and structured silhouettes personified dominance while bright reds seen on dresses and patent boots exhibited seductive femininity at the Prada FW ’14 show. Sharply tailored blazers were lined with lush fur and sheer long dresses were worn with multi coloured, patterned underwear. Sailor style was referenced through gold lined grey overcoats worn with bright red scarfs and exaggeration was incorporated through brightly colour clashed fur coats.
Fast food meets fashion made for an intriguing mix at the Moschino FW ’14 show. Models graced the catwalk in archetypal McDonald's emblems and colours of yellow and red and CHANEL detailing was incorporated to fuse quirky and classic. The collection transcended into hip hop chic where bags embellished with the words ‘Moschino’ were used as necklaces and lavish fur coats were sported alongside metallic gold jackets, gold chains and glitzy black bomber jackets. Jeremy Scott’s innovative use of SpongeBob prints and cereal box inspired dresses made for an eclectic show that referenced modern as well as youth culture.
Diesel Black Gold at NYFW Fall/Winter 2014/2015
For New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014-2015 creative director Andreas Melbostad took it's spectators on a futuristic Science Fiction journey. On first sight, the collection seemed to be inspired by cosmic space suits and Smart Wear, but on closer inspection the brands typical elements were eminent: denim and leather, accented by zippers, multiple buckles and mirrored metal discs. Dominated by a rather monochromic colour palette, metallic surfaces and silvery laquered fabrics perfectly matched with neoprene, quilted leather and lightweight jersey. But also the choice of classical materials such as merino wool and 'Prince of Wales‘ highlighted this marvelous collection.
Philipp Plein Underwear
Shortly after Philipp Plein's cowboys pranced down the runway at the Fall/Winter 2014 show in Milan, the Swiss Maison is delight to present it‘s men‘s underwear debut. Embodying the essence of beauty, innovation, fun and sensuality, the collection consists of sporty boxers, briefs and shorts made of comfortable jersey. And of course, the new campaign features images by Steven Klein. In a luxury 'Fight Club', he transforms his protagonists into wild wrestling bad boys, when the animal instinct and lust for life emerges. Co-existing to the images, a video completes the thought of body-to-body struggle: it's night, when two shirtless boys walk into a deli and escape back into a limousine. Superimposed by haunting fighting sequences, the video encapsulates the campaign's spirit: Battle with all your forces!
Dior at Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014
On monday, at the Dior Haute Couture, Raf Simons focused on the idea of intimacy and showcased elaborately designed garments, in which he dealt with the 'idea of woman per se'. Even the location -a white modernist cave- showed the main idea of the show: soft curves and abstract sculptural expressions.
Speaking of delicacy of handwork, Simons designs had a complex, yet light and clean architectural approach, almost surrounding the bodys like organic shapes and adjusting to their movements. Silk, chiffon and delicate lace sybolized the intimacy of the female body. Chopped-out balloon cocktail dresses or volounious airy skirts were made of semi-transparent fabrics and embellished with repetitive patterns in white, black and pastel colours.
Dior Homme at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
During the first part of the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2014 collection, it seemed as if Kris van Assche was touching a more nostalgic and romantic part of himself. Tailored pinstriped suits were adorned with lily of the valley-embroideries and brooches representing heirlooms of the house. But gradually the modernist in Kris came to the surface as he began to play with these very classical elements. The pinstripes varied in thickness and the flower-motif was manipulated so that it almost became an camouflage-print. This fresh air of youthfulness was fortified when blue jeans were added to the looks with five-pockets, shirts and a great parka. The same was done with army-green. This collection can be considered as an evolution of the Dior house in it's entirety as Homme remains the cool and modern menswear brand, but at the same time the mens- and womenswear are gradually finding each other again. With Kris van Assche at menswear and Raf Simons at womenswear, the two Belgian head designers are both looking at the past of the house, but only to push it to horizons it has never been.
Kenzo at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
In just a few seasons, the house of Kenzo has renewed it's popularity with recognizable prints, colors and a few collaborations. This season Humberto Leon and Carol Lim went to a more homely place as the collection started with earthy tones as grey and brown. A lot of focus was put on tailoring and knitwear, the latter being used for big collars on coats, slim pants and chunky sweaters. Colors like pink, lime and purple were later reinforced to brighten up the collection. Funny detail was the shaggy fur, that was actually kangaroo.
IVANMAN at Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Classicism meets purism in designer Ivan Mandzukic’s fall/winter 2014/15 collection. The most recent designs of menswear label IVANMAN were inspired by Alejandro Jodorowsky’s 1973 classic La Montaña Sagrada – The Holy Mountain to reflect a play on gender roles. Classical shapes are accentuated femininely by the subtle use of transparency and details in the way the pieces are cut – strong overlapped shoulders and uniform shirts counter for an overall masculine look. IVANMAN’s new collection speaks a very personal and purist language while managing to cleverly update classics like trench coats, sweaters and pleated pants.
Mandzukic’s distinct sense for proportions paired with severe details like high-necked, stiff collars complete the menswear look for the upcoming fall season. A big selection of quality wool, delicate knits, cotton and heavy sweater fabric dominate the collection. The designer combines heavy hues such as Bordeaux and aubergine with soft beige and classic black and white for a seasonal color palette.
Maison Martin Margiela at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014, Maison Martin Margiela focused on wearable and sober clothing with subtle twists. Slightly slouchy grey suits had pants with double hems and coats were fastened with suspenders when worn over the shoulder. Big knits were teamed up with even bigger furs and there was a sense of wrapping and folding in the collection. MMM wouldn't do right to there name if they didn't include some decomposing and reassembling with diving-gear, thick tent-like canvas and leather satchels.
John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Sport was unmistakably on Bill Gaytten's mind for his latest collection for John Galliano. All looks were based around leggings and sneakers in all sorts of colors and designs. Longer tops had elastic hems to create a rounded effect and parka's had big hoods and cinched waists. Some looks were finished with more urban items like jackets and overcoats, but even they were made out of exquisite technical materials. The collection was given an upbeat touch with shiny surfaces and pop-colors.
Rick Owens at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Rick Owens practically invented a new type of garment in his fall/winter 2014 collection. This garment can best be described as a hybrid of a romper and a dress. It was suprisingly elegant on a man's body, especially when worn with big shantung scarf wrapped around the neck and chunky high boots. The collection started with deep brown leathers, suedes and cotons and later verged into blackness, never forgetting the head dresses that gave a slight religious undertone. The silhouette was quite broad with a lot of sleeveless tops and wide shorts. This all finished with the savageness that Rick Owens is known for.
Carven at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
With dark workwear, elegant but manly shapes and high fur hats, Guillaume Henry at Carven seemed to reference the Beat Generation of New York in the sixties. Tailored pants fell just on the ankle to reveal clunky shoes and big double breasted coats gave the shoulders a slight roundness. Heavy knitwear was tucked in pants and most shirts came without collars. Beginning with blacks and dark blues, the collection later adapted tones like nude, burgundy and a graffiti print.
John Varvatos at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
At John Varvatos, looks are fearless, confident and as usual influenced by Varvatos passion for Rock' n' Roll. So of course Kiss, in the main soundtrack accompanied his muses, when they pranced down the runway. John‘s leather looks were mainly black, often in shimmery shades, combined with white suits. Throughout the edgy spirit, elegancy is not getting lost.
Gucci at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
Inspired by the empathetic portraits of Canadian painter Kris Knight, the new Gucci Fall/Winter 2014 collection shows linear, graphic shapes with the precision in design. The Gucci men -during the day- wears sixties pants, nappa leather and biker jacket, and velvet blazers at night. Manifested in Gucci‘s traditional craftmansship, leather is the protagonist of most garments and occures in almost every look. Creative director Frida Giannini chose a colour pallete, that culminates from deep black into dusty pastels.
Calvin Klein at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014
After Calvin Klein has presented the upcoming Fall/Winter 2014 collection during Milan Fashion Week, there are three expressions, that bear in mind: ETERNITY,OBSESSION and ESCAPE. Named after CK fragrances, these slogans, graced numerous of oversized sweaters and underlined how wide-ranging the brand is. The military-inspired collection features baggy metallic pants, leather bombers, backpacks and jean jackets in leather, dominated by earthy warm colours.
Lou Dalton & Astrid Andersen at London Collections: Men Fall/Winter 2014
Lou Dalton Fall/Winter 2014
As designer Lou Dalton has established herself as a starlet of British Menswear, no other than her was destined to open the first day of festivities at London Collections: Men. Alongside punk-inspired streatwear elements and chic tailored suit jackets, her creations were built on the inspiration of her grandfather’s farm and it‘s workers. Lou Dalton‘s signature of contemporary classicism and refined tailoring got crossed by pieces in acid-pink denim.
Astrid Andersen Fall/Winter 2014
Only four years after Astrid Anders graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Art MA course, the successful Danish designer for Fall/Winter 2014 hit the zeitgeist with a modern, luxurious street style collection. Sticking to her use of exclusive fabrics, the line was based on shiny satin's, laces and faux furs. The 'Astrid' branding emblazoned hoodies,T-shirts and underlined the graphical demand that make all of her collections unique. Other key elements were asymmetric strapless and cropped tops. Down Jackets and silver chains gave the final finish and a slight 90ies spark.
Kaviar Gauche 'Fleur De Force'
Since in 2004 Johanna Kuhl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler created their unique style, it's not possible to imagine the fashion universe without Kaviar Gauche's femine designs. With the delicate yet strong collection 'Fleur De Force' the Berlin-based fashion label welcomed the Spring/Summer season 2014. The two charming founders for this occasion chose the St. Agnes church in Berlin, Kreuzberg to present the collection and show it in a rather minimalistic and industrial ambience. A light installation rotating to the rhythm of 'Einstein on the beach' by Phillip Glass graced the show with artificial golden sunlight and underlined it's cool and antagonistic spirit.
The collection is influenced by floral and contrasting graphic elements dominated by warm and light-beige colours, besides silver-grey combined with the classic Kaviar Gauche shades, such as ivory and black. In addition to the mix of silk, organza and leather, the line features the modern laser cut in blossom shapes. Next to the ready-to-wear collection the designer duo showcased dresses of the Bridal Couture 2014 putting the focus on the opulent Pavot dress, made of silk laces. In the selection of suitable accessories the exclusive garments find a final conclusion.
Ermenegildo Zegna's L.A. Global Store
To celebrate the opening of it's new global boutique on Rodeo Drive, the luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna hosted an exclusive soiree at the new designed three floor Concept store. Italian fashion designer and Zegna's Creative Head, Stefano Pilati showcased an impressive preview of the Spring/Summer 2014 Couture collection, including mohair suits, wool gabardine jackets and floral jacquard knits. As always focusing on success, excellence and craftsmanship, the now available selection in the store dedicates to Italian high-quality heritage and ranges from clothing to accessories and fragrances, and from formalwear to sportswear, made of exclusive materials that have distinguished Zegna for over a century now.
The Beverly Hills boutique was designed by renowned architect Peter Marino and creates an extravagant ambiance, dominated by brownish, earthy and golden beige shades. The interior designs of the boutique echo the brand's use of quality materials, integrity and modern style and enrich the visual shoppong experience in store, accompanied by a chic VIP room in the top floor devoted to personal shopping.Invited guests, such as legendary actress Sharon Stone and musician Gavin Rossdale, enjoyed a unique dinner and cocktail night at the JF Chen design gallery, and experienced the new creative concept behind the campaign Eminences Grises, shot by the two renowned photographers Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Under the artistic direction of Pilati the campaign images have been set up in the event space and marked another highlight of the opening.
The new global store is located on 337 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.
NEIGHBORHOOD for Converse Sneaker
NEIGHBORHOOD, the exclusive lifestyle denim brand from Tokyo and Converse presented their first joint project, the first String Holiday 2013 collection, through adding a slight Japanese touch to the most two well-known Converse classics. When the Japanese clothing brand was founded in 1994 by Shinsuke Takizawa, NEIGHBORHOOD immediately succeeded with their motorcycle culture inspired designs, which also gets visible in this very unique collection. Combining classic Converse DNA with the Japanese brand's own vision, the two iconic staples are processed with high quality materials: the Jack Purcell Johnny Mid, made of deep petrol blue leather with tonal stitching and the All Star Chuck '70 Ox realized in a blue suede, both with white midsoles and toe-caps.
The First String's Premium sneaker collection is available in selected Converse retailers across the globe since the 1st of November 2013. For more information visit
Azzedine Alaïa and Women
By Ria de Borja
Alaïa, an exhibit chronicling the designer’s career and influence in fashion, recently opened at Palais Galliera, musée de la mode de la ville de Paris. The exhibit goes through the designer’s history, designs, techniques, inspirations - and his penchant for women, including famous actresses. Azzedine Alaïa was born in Tunisia and attended the country’s École des Beaux-arts. “I used to spend my nights oversewing dresses for a local dressmaker in order to pay for my school equipment. I learned the different stitches by doing my sister Hafida’s sewing exercises because she wasn’t very keen on manual skills,” says Alaïa in the exhibition catalogue. Soon after, the designer finished his studies and was encouraged to move to Paris by a family friend.
“The designers who have made a lasting impression on the history of fashion are those who have concentrated on celebrating and liberating the body. Of all contemporary creators, it is Alaïa who has best embodied this spirit since the 1980s, using precise seams and darts to produce a silhouette that has become his hallmark,” says Olivier de Saillard, director of the Galliera museum and the exhibit’s curator. “He drew inspiration from the spirited style and arrogance of personalities like Arletty and Louise de Vilmorin.”
Alaïa met the French actress Arletty in Paris in 1960. “She’s the one who gave me the idea of making skin-tight dresses. She was used to adjusting the volume of her skirt with a pin. ‘It falls too well, she used to say. It has to be skewed somewhere.’” Towards 1971, he was inspired by Greta Garbo: “She came with a friend, Cécile de Rothschild, and wanted me to make a very full- bodied coat. I remember some fitting sessions and measuring sessions. The coat was never big enough for her taste.
At a time when everything was tight- fitting, the 1970s, I had to make an immense, navy-blue coat for her, with turned- up sleeves. In the 1980s and 1990s, I often presented huge coats with generous shoulders, a definite nod to Garbo, to her inimitable and avant-gardist style.” When he met Louise de Vilmorin, he was further schooled in fashion: “Meeting her I realized that Parisian chic was all about the little details. One evening when Louise de Vilmorin was supposed to go to a dinner, she asked me to help her put the finishing touches to her outfit.
She remembered that she had seen a concierge wearing a cardigan from a department store like Prisunic so we bought it. We replaced the buttons with something more elaborate in metal and put a long ordinary chain around her neck that she rolled up and plunged into a pocket. It was a demonstration in just a few seconds of her inimitable sense of style, and she got a lot of envious looks that evening.” Over the course of his career, the designer has created collections that include leather or waxed fabrics perforated with eyelets, skirts laced at the back, metal zippers running from the neckline to the hemline, tight and structured leather suits, seamed stretch jersey dresses, leather tube dress with asymmetrical folds revealing the naked skin, stretch jersey hood dresses and coats with hood collars and reversible boleros with strips of mink. “Alaïa fashioned a new body, like a sculptor working with muslin and leather. Inventing new shapes out of simple interplay between complex stitchings, Alaïa became the creator of a timeless body of work. His influence on today’s fashion is fundamental,” says Saillard.
In 1986, Alaïa presented Naomi Campbell in her first fashion show (she was 16). “Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa, Veronica Webb, Stephanie Seymour, Marie-Sophie Wilson, I am grateful to them all for accompanying me through all the research and the long posing, fitting and tweaking sessions. If I don’t have models before my eyes I have no ideas. I need to see their bodies near me,” says the designer. He acknowledges the profound influence women have had on him: “I have never followed fashion. Women have always dictated my behaviour. I make clothes, women make fashion.”
Onitsuka Tiger's ‘My Town My Tracks'
Sports lifestyle brand Onitsuka Tiger takes on Tokyo's diverse backstreets for Fall/Winter 2013. In ‘My Town My Tracks' three natives explore their urban lifestyles and neighborhoods. Through the power of images and film the juxtaposition of this modest and outgoing, quirky and elegant culture, which is the birthplace of Onitsuka Tiger, is related. British photographer Laurence Ellis snapped Asami, a barista and actress in the hip Shimokitazawa district, artist Que, while wandering around counterculture hub Kichijoji, and Chris - the third local - cycling around Nakameguro, a quiet residential area.
The trio showcases models from the upcoming, running-inspired street collection through 1,000 candid Instagram photos, which can be seen on Onitsuka Tiger’s official Instagram profile, @onitsukatigerhq. Throughout this personal city tour, the ULT-RACER and HARANDIA take center stage. Both shoes are inspired by the brand’s running heritage. The HARANDIA features performance technology and will go down in Onitsuka Tiger’s history as its first shoe to feature GEL technology, for extra cushioning and comfort, all the while. As a special gimmick, it’s the brand’s first shoe to have Onitsuka Tiger written on the heel tab in Japanese.
The other shoe featured - the ULT-RACER - is a modern interpretation of the ULTIMATE 81, which was one of the brand’s most famous running shoes in the 80s. Sleek nylon, a chunky sole and herringbone rubber pattern make this a great allrounder for everyday explorations. Both models come in seven combinations as well as three specifically female fits.
Miu Miu at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For Spring/Summer 2014 Miu Miu adorned the runway with exclusive garments hitting the spirit of the swinging sixties. Miuccia Prada sent out retro looking coats with big buttons, fringe-beaded dresses in a range of vivid and pastel colours. Wool tights were combined with twin set tops and patent leather skirts in pastel colours.Cuts and shapes were slightly remininding of schoolgirl uniforms.Wild patterns and prints of ornaments showing birds, cats and flowers highlighted fluffy coats. Paying attention to those eye-catching details, the collection was playful, girlish yet sophisticated and feminine, what in other words defines Miu Miu as an extravagant brand.
Wunderkind at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind Spring/ Summer 2014 collection was a prelude to celebrate individualism and free thinking as if there is nothing left to loose. Inspired by the wild flair of the 70ies, stunning floral dresses with floating silhouettes, high-waisted hotpants and fringed leather jackets underlined the main theme and created an effortless and liberated spirit, that shouldn‘t be missing at an un- forgettable performance. Chiffon garments in acid colours and vibrant prints, next to sporty leggings made of transluscent fabrics and elements of baseball tricots completed this energetic and charismatic ambience and added a touch of youthness.
22/4_femmes at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Stephanie Hahn, the designer of 22/4_femmes, has her roots in pattern making, which makes her a gem of know how in the middle of superficial big ideas. The way she cuts a shoulder on her new T-shirt is only one example of the way Hahn structures and controls a fabric. For Spring/Summer 2014, the designer looked at Jazz Age tennis player Suzanne Lenglen, resulting in a minimal, sportive collection without neglecting the feminine. Relaxed silhouettes with big striped trousers and shirts were vamped up with brazeers in the same fabric. As Lenglen, also known as „the Divine“, never wore an underskirt while playing, an exercise in transparency gave the collection depth and light.
Prada at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
For the second day of Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014, Prada sent out a collection that reflected femininity and female empowerment at it’s best. Eye-catching prints, which reminded of mural paintings and Richard Lindner dominated this artistic line. Most of the prints showed graphical images of women, which underlined what this collection is all about. Knife-pleat skirts, tube socks, shift dresses and coats with round buttons were showcased in the colour palette of mustard, lilac, turquoise and tangerine. Accompanied by hot vibes of Britney Spears new song "Work bitch!“ this show was a must-see at MFW Spring/Summer 2014.
Emporio Armani at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
The Emporio Armani Spring/Summer 2014 show was inspired by the spirit of nature and flaunted with modern qualities. Rippling water reflections and shadows on plants glazed on exclusive garments, in juxtaposition to floral patterns and imaginative, abstract watercolour illustrations. Shadows of tropical flowers in a colour palette of pale blues, greens, grays and dawn pinks completed the whole appearance.
Casual outfits included a range of double-pleat and widly-cutted pants and leggings that covered the skin like a tattoo. Flowing jackets in glossy and monochrome looks and elementary shapes, next to sleeveless silk dresses conjured a symbolic modernity accessorized with colour-matching clutches and handbags.
KTZ at London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014
Marjan Pejoski & Koji Maruyama’s Spring/ Summer 2014 was a highlight on third day of London Fashion Week. Dominated by black and white moroccan tile textures, the collection had unique pieces made of high- tech fabrics and varnished leather accessoried by oversized, opulent jewellery and metallic embossing. Hitting the zeitgeist with stunning creations such as hijab-looking headpieces, hamsa hands and enveloping garments, the designer duo transformed the runway into a futuristic sci-fi trip to the oriental dessert.
Ralph Lauren at NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014
Ralph Lauren put forward a classical and monochrome collection on last day of NYFW Spring/ Summer 2014. Starting with chic business outfits, dominated mostly by blacks and whites and a variety of floral and square patterns. Skirts, three piece suits, as well as evening gowns glazed on the runway. The flow of this clear line during the second phase got pursued by unexpected pieces of vivid, acid- shrill colour ranges. Sharply-cut dresses were put together with matching accessories such as handbags, hats and sunglasses.
L’ Aventure Pop-up Shop opens up in Paris
L’ Aventure is a pop-up store designed in collaboration with canadian journalist and magazine publisher Tyler Brûlé and his team. ‘The Louis Vuitton’s experience doesn’t stop as soon as you walk out the store with your luggage, they’re in it for life with you.’ This unpredented space highlights Louis Vuitton’s expert authority on travel, since Louis Vuitton’s monogram shows up daily on every airport worldwide. The store will offer not only objects, but also a number of unique services, such as offering a wide range of options for customising luggage.
L’ Aventure opens on 12 September 2013 on the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign
Where would you look to find the fashion’s face of today? When many would turn to the catwalks, Diesel – with its hopeful spirit ready to ‘Reboot’ – has herded an army of outsiders from the fertile soil of the brand’s Tumblr page. A practising follower of social media, newly-appointed Artistic Director, Nicola Formichetti, was the main protagonist to what is a refreshing chapter in the Diesel story – a change of narrative and a fresh plot to match. Formichetti’s vision is one that unearths and champions the most relevant talent of our time – something he has always been keen to depict through his imagery – and the Fall/Winter 13 campaign is no different.
The subjects make for an eclectic cast, comprised of Japan’s current obsession (actress Kiko Mizuhara), rosy-haired Bronx graffiti artist (Michelle Calderon) and female Olympian-turned-male model (Casey Legler). Throw in an Italian electro-house DJ (Bob Rifo) and an alienesque Dylan Fosket, and the troupe grows curiouser and curiouser. The styling of each shot was entrusted to the individual, with the vital Diesel staples to hand – a wardrobe of denim and leather pieces, customised by Formichetti himself. Composed in classic-portrait style, the shots frame the atypical models with brilliant nobility, and with Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinnodh Matadin on board as photographers, they strike a formula to render snapshots as artefacts of modern times.
Diesel Opens Frankfurt Flagship Store
Raising the curtain after a three-year absence from the city, Diesel unveiled its new and long-awaited flagship store in Frankfurt’s main metropolis on August 1st. Split over two levels, the 383m² store will present pieces from both menswear and womenswear main line collections and Diesel Denim, alongside a discerning selection of shoes, bags and accessories. Four months of hard labour transformed the listed building into an inspiring retail space, built on the artful marriage of vintage and contemporary design accents, from cold, hard steel fixtures to wood block floors.
It’s most exciting element, however, is its devoted private areas to the Diesel Black Gold ready-to-wear collections - previously exclusive to a select handful of German stores, the Frankfurt store is now home to its most daring and directional line. And the new destination still has surprises in store, as September 5th will mark its large-scale opening event, and will be attended by founder of the label, Renzo Rosso, for what promises to be a truly spectacular launch.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century
He dressed the most beautiful women of the '80s, from Madonna to Grace Jones. Cited for his figure-fitting contours, as a designer, Azzedine Alaïa embraced the seductive shape of the female form, exuding sexuality to define an era. Now in his 3rd decade as an esteemed fixture of the fashion industry, Azzedine Alaïa continues to impart that sensual inflection that undersigns his work within his designs today, attracting such diverse clientele as Lady Gaga and Michelle Obama.
The exhibition, Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century, pulls focus on the important catalogue of work the designer has produced in the new millenium, showcasing his most significant and glamorous pieces from the last ten years. Curated by friend of 15 years Mark Wilson, the exhibition organises Alaïa's work by the his signature materials of the last decade; creations fall into fur, leather, velvet, cotton, chiffon, knitwear and animal skin rooms, illustrating the adroit hand of a mastered couturier, and, above all, that amorous appeal.
Alaïa: Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century runs until September 8th at the NRW-Forum, Düsseldorf.
Nieuw Jurk Spring/Summer 2014
Ever reliable to stir controversy, Dutch label Nieuw Jurk shouted from the soapbox of their Amsterdam Fashion Week show with a collection founded on debauchery and scandal. $€XXX speaks mirthifully of the impact of the porn industry and its amplification with the uncontainable presence of the internet.
Chunky rubber boots and PVC bodysuits cling tight to skin, buckled and zipped in fetishwear fashion. Motifs were both lucid and lurid, as X-rated imagery jibed with comic rave-print wit. Sex-shop neons emblazoned photographic prints with their depressingly optimistic lambent glow, tiling catsuits and men's co-ords in wearably clubby pastiche; outsized patent tees take on inflatable doll appliqué with surprisingly permissive flare, while the smile of acid-house undergoes crass adulteration.
Accessories were a little more conceptual, though their statement was no less explicit; faux fur patches served playfully as knee and breast patches, while harness bras and candy string bikinis drolly stands up for any witticism left unsaid.
Iceberg Celebrate 400th Anniversary of Amsterdam's Canals
This year the city of Amsterdam celebrates the 400th anniversary of its characteristic Canal Ring. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the canals will play host to jubilant commemoration throughout 2013. One such reveller is the sportswear label Iceberg, whose Ice Iceberg store finds home on the city's legendary shopping street, PC Hoofstraat.
Iceberg climbled aboard the aptly named Juliana flat bottom boat, – a fitting tribute to Gilmar founder, Giuliana Marchini Gerani – before sailing down the Herengracht Canal to the Munttoren Tower, soaking up the bounty of sights on offer from the charming aspect of the water.
Stone Island Flagship Store Openings
Munich's Maximillian Strasse is soon to make room for a new resident at number 27, as Stone Island are set to open their second German Flagship store in the legendary shopping district this September.
The 100m² store follows the launch of its Sylt store in March 2012, and will stock both the Stone Island and Stone Island Junior collections, as well as the capsule Stone Island Shadow Project.
July 6th also saw the unveiling of another Stone Island Flagship store, this time in Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany. Images from the Stone Island Archivio '982'-'012' 30th anniversary book were projected onto the backdrop of a 10 meter-high floating installation, constructed in honor of the event.
In keeping with their other recent openings, oiled oak and stone lay a natural finish to the interiors, contrasted by the contemporary accent of luminous fibreglass and aluminium fixtures, holding collections in sunken cages made to a bespoke specification.
PERRET SCHAAD Spring/Summer 2014
Off the beaten Fashion Week track, duo PERRET SCHAAD called to the Neue Nationalgalerie, one of the later works of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The upper floor and exhibition space, a 2500 m² glass hall, inspired the concept for the spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD show. While the everyday museum operations commenced, guests cued up around the building and viewed the show through the glass windows. The duo makes use of both noble and tactile materials. What really makes their designs are the precise cuts and the inventive draping which result in sharp and sensual silhouettes. Lines and patterns evoke structure and fluidity, while forms and volume draw the classic and the new. Juxtaposing feminist and romantic, disciplined and free notes express the label's aesthetic. For spring/summer 2014 PERRET SCHAAD relied on fine silks, fresh linens, and soft cottons, all natural and rich materials. Their color palette ranges from light to gunmetal gray, from sky blue to deep ink, interlaced with pops such as fuchsia. Through the process of draping and pattern cutting they create fluid and sculptural forms that interact with each other in contrast and harmony. The collection reflects the flexibility and multitude of the urban environment while being committed to an accentuated simplicity.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Michael Sontag Spring/Summer 2014
Inside and out - the binary behind Michael Sontag's spring/summer 2014 collection. Traditional linings such as horsehair took center stage during his presentation at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Intertwined with silks, light cotton, a polyamide-mix, and denim, the materials shaped his layered looks. The collection was elaborate and conceptualized, yet wearable. Sontag layered shorts of full length pants and topped them off with more layers on top, never loosing the airy lightness of his idea. From muted creme, black and gray to canary yellow and lagoon blue, the color palette corresponded to the trends for spring/summer 2014, as seen during Berlin Fashion Week thus far. Surprising sparkle in the designs came out as they moved along the runway: Sontag added Swarovski crystals to some pleats.
Images: © Mercedes Benz Fashion
Marcel Ostertag Spring/Summer 2014
The most eclectic designer showing during MBFWB is certainly Marcel Ostertag. Always one to take things a little further, the designer himself took to the runway to open his show in a long blush gown jacket. What a way to celebrate his 15th collection thus far. His 'Fragile Explosion' really went for it with vivid colors such as turquoise, green and shimmery gold as well as flower prints, sequins and combos of cotton and jersey or jersey and leather. The almost excessive use of sheer materials brought out the edgy, naughty side of the collection and balanced the more romantic floral and blush pieces. For his anniversary, Ostertag managed to put forward a collection which is cohesive and individual, having a little something of everything.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Fendi Avenue Montaigne Store Opening
Fendi celebrated its move from 22 Avenue Montaigne to number 51 with the unveiling of The Glory of Water exhibition, exclusive in-store cocktail reception and a dinner hosted at the iconic Petit Palais. Karl Lagerfeld guested alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi, Sharon Stone and Chiara Mastroianni.
The new 600m² bouqitue – a celebration of Italian beauty – was designed with rich femininity. Sumptuous textures coat curves in velvet, leather and sleek stone. Fendi wears its Roman roots on its sleeves, studding walls with travertine plates.
Boasting an exclusive fur room, the new store will provide customers with the oppurtunity to create made-to-order pieces. A spectacular installation will narrate the craftsmanship behind the construction of Fendi's fur lines, with the infamous Baguette bag hanging from a display wall pierced by 30, 000 bronze needles. Bags too can be bespoke, with items from the Selleria line and the Peekaboo bag available to customise to a specification of leathers, colors and finishes.
Chanel Fall Couture 2013
A mixed bag for Chanel this couture season; true-to-tradition bouclé had us believing we were following a path back to the golden age of the brand. That was until hemlines were snatched back and suede cuissardes gave new meaning to longline. Metallics threaded through the weave of the wool itself, set off by the layering of sequined pastel separates.
Mandarin collars and funnel-necks went a little bit '60s, a little bit space-race, in exaggerated volumes, while rolled-over edges gave an inflated cartoonish finish. Wide belts were embellished with the occasional line of silver – reminiscent of pilgrim styles, they found themselves doubled, even tripled in size. Slung to the hips they seemed careless, but tight go-go shifts in silk said otherwise.
Lagerfeld's experimentation with texture truly came to fruition with the tactile geometrics he mosaiced. Soft sheer underlays peeked through the delicate silver armour of fabrics that were seemingly adorned by the fine art of paper-rolling. Origami cloth squares opened with a cross to give the impression of a gentler kind of studwork, picking out the accenting features of the Chanel silhouette: just the hint of a swan-like neck and a quick flash of feminine wrists.
Augustin Teboul Spring/Summer 2014
Like dark princesses, Augustin Teboul's models drew the attention during the spring/summer 2014 show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Each in their own space, divided by white screens, they exuded detachment from the outside world and a kinship with the spiritual sphere. Once again Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul used their favorite materials - leather, knits, silk and mousselin - which they combined with fringed and patent leather details for spring/summer 2014. While they stayed true to their all black aesthetic, they interpreted it for the lighter and warmer season with styles such as shorts, dresses and crocheted parts. Inspiration came from Christendom and its stark contrast of humility and opulence. Volume once again played a big role in the collection, as did intricate embellishments, reminiscent of ecclesiastical ornaments. Augustin Teboul rounded off their looks with their notorious headpieces, creating the ultimate extravaganza in black.
Images:© Mercedes Benz Fashion
Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013
Until now, Raf Simons' reworking of Dior was seen to be remarkably orthodox. Only his third couture show for the fashion house, designs were propelled by a kind of creative licence that was perceptibly braver.
Though heritage houndstooth still made the cut, this time it was magnified, mantled and modernised. A patent sheen picked out the tiered layers of the reinterpreted bar suit – a brazen symbol if ever there were for Simons' eventual metamorphosis of the brand. Fabrics swathed, yet the look remained clean, fitted to the form for a reworked feminimnity that was contemporary, all the while classic.
More surprising still was the arrival of spiked shibori, which sported strapless dresses with spage-age skeleton. Hair and makeup too afforded a sense of the intergalactic, slicked to skull to show silvered lips. Diagonal cuts sliced through the flounce of Dior's past like a scalpel, pastel metallics and sheer holograph prints abducting its legacy and transporting it not just to the present, but resonating the brand firmly in the future.
Julian Zigerli Spring/Summer 2014
Swiss-born designer Julian Zigerli took the runway on day one of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin. His spring/summer 2014 collection “At the end of the world to the left” plays with mixed boundaries, layering and de-constructed elements.Through the print collaboration with the Berlin based artist Katharina Grosse, Julian developed a collection of designs that embody this abstract space. A collection for a grounded man in an unknown place, surrounded by wind-blown colors and distorted forms. Like a mirage, an oasis in the desert, Zigerli’s collection unfolds and inspires with functional details in cut and fabric. His men’s collection stands for useful, smart and technical high-class pieces with a sporty-touch. There is always a lot of love, color, humor and positivity involved in his designs.
Images: © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014
It was the second time Hedi Slimane presented a runway collection for men at Saint Laurent and, like we'd come to expect from him, it was a polarizing one. This season, he looked at the fifties and Teddy Boys, hence the ducktail hair, baseball jackets and rockabilly buckled boots. The last look, a model wearing a black tux and fire-red hair, was a clear reference to the designer's icon, David Bowie, who started it all for him. Slimane, both the designer and the photographer, is obsessed with youth culture and music and it was the rock and roll atmosphere that oozed from this collection with band members walking the runway in a dome-like setting. It may not be the Saint Laurent we think we know but it is a fact that Yves himself was also interested in youth-culture and in that way, Hedi is pushing the house forward while staying in line with it's traditions. At the end of the day, he is starting one of the most interesting discussions in fashion at the moment.
KRISVANASSCHE Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Kris van Assche outed a clean and graphically strong collection for his Spring/Summer 2014 collection in fresh and bold colors. The Belgian designer started with suits and infused them with sportswear, resulting in boxy tops with lapels and a zipper across the stomach. The same characteristics came back on a garment which looked like a hybrid of a blazer and a bomber-jacket which were so voluminous that the models almost looked round from the side. Also round were the polka-dot cut-outs on the black sweater.
Valentino Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the head designers of Valentino, are known for their experimental approach to everyday classics. Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection expressed that approach in a military way mixed with clean lines and new silhouettes. Starting of with full looks in raw denim, the collection later picked up white T-shirts and chinos. Recent hallmarks like heat-bonded leather and camo-print also reappeared. This all with the extreme couture-like skill that the designers are known for. The duo also introduced a new collaboration with Havaianas, combining luxury and practicality in crocodile thongs.
Dries van Noten Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
The backdrop of the Dries van Noten show on thursday was a massive curtain of gold foil that shimmered like a pool on a sunny day. In the middle of the hall was a gold drum kit that soon was played by a young woman, providing the models with a hypnotic rhythm. The collection that followed was quintessential Dries: floral prints, see-through fabrics and above all the nonchalance of a very cool guy. The collection was infused with antique military clothing and elements, like a heavy gold embroidery and gold piping and buttons. When the Belgian took his bow, the drummer didn't stop playing and the models, who were lined up against the gold foil, didn't move a feet. This gave a great opportunity to see the clothing up close, and revealed details that only closer inspections make visible.
Calvin Klein Collection Spring/Summer 2014
Clean and clutter-free: Calvin Klein Collection. In a plethora of blues, sportswear governed the show – a pertinent match for neoprene textures. Simply unadorned, cartooned silhouettes pop through the storyboard with rounded form, cut up by blockish line. Chunky sandals were similarly caricatured, with inch-thick soles in a powder-blue pigment saved for the dusty pages of a comic book.
Leather was likewise animated; in giant crocodile skins, exaggeration was afoot. And then there were the graphics: deafeningly serene were the seascapes and skies that splashed across sweaters in panoramic splendour. An audacious affair for Calvin Klein Collection, delivering a collection that was plump with personality and performed with artful precision.
Bottega Veneta Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Bottega Veneta have print down to a science. A peculiar choice, then, to wave in their handiwork with a succession of unassuming prototypes.
And what parodying prototypes they were, mocking with their trompe-d'oeil tailor's chalk. Blueprinting pockets, lapels and buttons alike, it's a struggle to ascertain whether or not tailoring was, in fact, a taunting mirage. If the devil is in the detail, here was one feigning spirit.
Satire eventually gave way to sincerity, with those famously harmonised unconforming checks in harvest shades of oxblood and oat. Gridlock, too, had eyes transfixed, first pin-sharp and then waveringly hand drawn. In varying thicknesses they were, at the very least, potently hypnotic.
Form lent wonderfully to strict flutes of ivory, taking on a jazz timbre fit for the toe-tapping of correspondent shoes – were they not already beaten in the race by thatched leather loafers. Suede bombers made the look seem heavy, whipped up to jawline with layered turtlenecks. Had it not been for the soothing introduction of the open polo, the summer sun would seem menacing. Weather regardless, Bottega Veneta walked designs to be desired come rain or shine.
Prada Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Prada’s prints certainly know the art of persuasion – seemingly repulsive at first glance, just a few more looks is all it takes before they blossom into something whole-heartedly desirable. Color, too, is applied with a masterful stroke, this time in melancholic hues which contrast and bejewel with off-kilter tones. Deep blood red - the kind reserved solely for velvet - cushions nuggets of equally opulent teal, to flock mournful holiday florals.
Hawaiian prints, not used to summers in the shade, seem wilted in amongst the cool air. With trousers long and layers heavy, together the look is vaguely autumnal. That is, until, dissected to standalone pieces, whereupon Prada bridges the gap between cliché and capricious.
Versace Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A celebration of athleticism – that's what Versace gave us with their latest presentation. Bodies suitibly buffed, muscles bust hulk-like from cropped shorts and cuffs rolled just an inch too early. Toned frames were a tight fit for uncompromising leather numbers, though such was the intended effect. Appliquéd in sports tape – skin no exception – tank-style collared shirts adopted light, sporty weights in racer hues, from fluro-blues to day-glow orange.
Suit pants mirror sweats, with ribbed cuffs to boot. It is the gladiator sandals, however, that hold the torch for olympian apparel, reforming the look with modernistic flare.
Stone Island Fall/Winter 2013 Lookbook
Stone Island unveiled their Fall/Winter lookbook this week, with fashion-conscious sportswear the front-running philosophy. Heralding a basic line of leisurewear staples, Stone Island executes the design of plain classics with contemporary flair. The coming collection punctuates the faithful bomber jacket with enticing texture and brazen colour in a slouch fit that oozes offhand cool. Cargo detailing and denim, meanwhile, add a touch of utility to an otherwise practical and casual line. Puffa jackets redefine themselves as objects to be desired in vivid jewel shades, while parkas are the ticket to play down any look with roguish nonchalance.
Philipp Plein Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Spring/Summer for Philipp Plein was a surprisingly eloquent pick 'n' mix of subcultures past. Rolling out almost fifty looks, Plein had plenty of room for manoeuvre.
The collection started out somewhere between ted and rockabilly before doing a full 180 to the baggy sweatpants of now. Black and red leather formed the skin of the collection, in weights ripe for biking and with the customary rocker studwork, Jackets were cut to hijack the wardrobe of the teds – complete with leather shawl collar, retro was rewired to duly home Plein's autograph laughing skull motif, amongst the scrapbook of patched denim. Snatching shirts from blazered models stripped back the costume of the look to the current day, paired with distressed-to-the-point-of-write-off jeans hugging hips just enough to give a flash of branded briefs. Where others fail to handle the retro's reluctancy to move with the times, Plein has indefinitely stolen from the best and made it his own, albeit with tongue habitually-placed in cheek.
Dsquared² Fall/Winter 13 Menswear Campaign
Hipsters and hepcats, bebop and scat – Dsquared²'s Fall/Winter collection took on a somewhat '40s jazz flavour, and their new campaign, starring Brahim Zaibat, also followed suit. Unveiled yesterday, photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot shot with a signature dash of technicolour, replicating the smoky ambience of the sordid speakeasy.
Shadows clamour in the dusky frames, pierced by opulent bursts of jewell-stained velvets. Black patent brogues lace tightly to Swing, until foot-tapping grows to the heavy-booted stomp of the army boot. Utilitywear enlists, with khaki wools and garrison caps reporting for duty, dressed down by distressed denim. Accessories, meanwhile, go to reference the age with military precision, with horn-rimmed glasses the serving accomplice to a jump blues beat.
Moncler open store in Sylt
Continuing their expansion within Germany, Moncler are to open a boutique on the northern island of Sylt, stocking clothes and accessories from the Moncler and Moncler Grenoble collections. In keeping with the typical white brickwork and thatched rooves that line the city of Kampen, the new store has been designed to uphold “High Mountrain” traditions. Smoked oak pannelling clads floor and ceiling, making for a cosy interior that is typically 'Sylt' . Elegant touches of black metal and glass enhance rather than detract from the quaint setting – no doubt a design detail of architect firm Gilles & Boissier, who can claim a history of collaborations with the label.
Burberry Prorsum Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
A tent in Hyde Park was the marquee for Burberry Prorsum's homecoming, and what better way to herald British menswear than by paying tribute to England's most prolific creatives. 'Writers and Painters' titled the piece, authored by Christopher Bailey's creative vision.
Like Alan Bennett cutouts, longline woolen coats, sweaters, shirts and oxford slacks weighted the theme of the 'Writer', painted – seemingly – by the brush of David Hockney himself. Off-kilter shades traced the signature of the artist, with blood-red and turquoise piercing from pannels of mustard yellow. At the hand of Hockney, detail is simplified – and so was Bailey's stark color-blocking.
Save a peeking skinny tie and drawstring sack, accessories rarely reared a head. Spotted scarves referenced the painter, though what would either artist be without their chunky trademark frames? Revitalised in a Pop-Art spectrum, the brand's logo studs the surface of box-square sunglasses to optical effect. In praise or pastiche, Bailey's portrait of two artists assuredly paints a pretty picture.
London Collections: Men
London raised the curtain on the menswear calendar this weekend, with London Collections: Men shining a light on both heritage and emerging design talent. Seen in by Dolce & Gabbana's opening presentation on Saturday, Sunday saw designers Jonathan Saunders and Richard Nicoll carry the flame. Kay Kwok's radical prints took an intergalactic turn, as razor-sharp tailoring flitted between minimalism and its converse – atmospheric motifs in an electronic palette, with organic line echoing that of the Earth's magnetosphere. Wet-look leather cut to all lengths grazed ankles and knees in muted monochrome tones, as minimalism made way for motifs.
Schoolboy-style short-suits were also on the menu at Mr Start & Mr Hare and Alan Taylor, where reinterpreted heritage fabrics echoed tweed and worsted wool, contrasting tough leather panels with dusty pinks and dirty lemons. Astrid Andersen, meanwhile, certainly staged a show to remember. Playing on the inherently masculine street vibe behind its sportswear concept, the gentle mystique of the lucky charm had more than a hand in its dusky jewelled tones. Atheletic frames were unashamedly emphasised by the figure-hugging lycra and the fragility of lace, not to mention the peek-a-boo cutouts which render sexuality of the collection not so transparent.
Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring/Summer 2014
Superb tailoring is nothing new for Giorgio Armani. Perhaps more interesting, was his execution of crisp cut-out shape. Navy, as expected, laid the groundwork for the line, but bursting through with vivacious zeal, were hot pinks and scuba blues. Suits hushed in blushing hues – the grainy linen they coveted was equally subdued.
Surface detail roused when pieces looked their most pristine, in ambient geometrics that were surprisingly contemporary. Petrol prints puddled short sleeved tees, while diamonds flocked with a neon glow under slouchy blazers, like drunk argyle. Even in their sober state, golfing knits looked somewhat under the influence; pastel hues turned kaleidoscopic and zig zag dissipated to plain stripe. Collarless shirts, too, took their button lines on the bias, wringing all meaning from reference with one modern twist.
While such innovation is not requisite for an established aesthetic like that of Armani, his ceaseless ability to refresh tradition does not go unnoticed.
Isabel Marant for H&M
H&M today announced news of their eagerly-anticipated design collaboration, with Isabel Marant named as the latest designer to release a collection for the brand. Arriving in stores on November 14th, the collection will be the first in the label's history of collaborations to include a menswear line, following in the success of the David Beckham loungewear line.
Pieces are expected to follow in the ethos of Marant's effortless attitude to dressing – an idea that threads Parisian elegance throughout her aesthetic. Speaking on the collection, the designer said, "I aim to create something real, that women want to wear in their everyday lives, with a certain carelessness, which I think is very Parisian: you dress up, but do not pay too much attention and still look sexy. The collection is infused with this kind of easiness and attitude. Everything can be mixed following one's own instincts."
Previous partners of the label include Karl Lagerfeld, Versarce and Marni – each of whom have produced sell-out collections and queues to line the outside of the stores. A current climate of understated chic, however, forecasts Marant's to be the most sought-after collection for the brand.
Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 Campaign
The sun may be beaming on your back, but just one glimpse at the steely sobriety of the Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 13 campaign is enough to give you chills. Captured by the painterly eyes of Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot, an inky color palette and soft elusive lines lend an impressionistic quality to the photos. As the twenties theme subtly sings, angular form appears to almost dance, with a gently-focussed lens illustrating a dreamy sense of movement. Starring Mariacarla Boscono and Florian Van Bael, the campaign is to debut worldwide later this month.
Hermès Festival des Métiers
Does it ever seem like you're getting through handbags like it's going out of fashion? The Festival des Métiers by Hermès may help to explain why. Celebrating the exquisite craftsmanship behind their products, Hermès artisans will demonstrate the art of their trade as part of a touring exhibition. From today, live workshops will open their doors to guests at the Areal Böhler, Düsseldorf, where guests can experience at first-hand the intricate process of tooling, silk engraving and jewelry craft. Oversee the entire process, from pattern pieces to product, as iconic pieces like the Birkin bag are constructed before your very eyes.
The exhibition runs from June 6th – 8th at the Areal Böhler, Düsseldorf .
G-Star flagship store Berlin
With a versatile event comprised of music, fashion and art, denim brand G-Star opened its new flagship store on Berlin's Kurfürstendamm. Actor Sönke Möhring of 'Inglorious Basterds' fame and presenter Rabea Schif activated the 'champagne crusher' to official unveil the store and open the doors to the RAW art series, a design experiment , which explores the limitless possibilities of denim. The new location houses the entire men's and women's collection as well as accessories on 350 square meters.
G-Star RAW store
Dior Cruise 2014
Raf Simons took the house of Christian Dior to Monaco for it's cruise 2014 presentation. The collection was a clear example of Raf pushing both himself and the French institute that is Dior. A new take on the Bar suit with exagerated shoulders and narrow waist in bright red set the tone for a quite sporty collection. This athletic influence was opposed with a new material for Raf: lace. Another reinvented classic was a piece that at first looked and moved like a "new look"-skirt but was, in fact, a baggy trouser with pleats on the hip.
MM6 Store Opening Paris
Just a few days ago, Maison Martin Margiela opened its first European store. After the first store was opened in New York in September 2012, it was only a matter of time until the next store in another fashion capital followed. The big white MM6 script over the entrance and the black door frame is visible from far away, attracting the Parisians’ attention. Located at 22 Place du Marché Saint Honoré the store is located in the prestigious first arrondissement.
The design inside the store contrasts dark wood with shining white tiles. The brown parquet floor leads the customers through the shop, along racks displaying the current SS 2013 collection and faceless white mannequins wearing some of the key looks. The furniture design uses clear lines and simplistic shapes. One of the core materials used for the furniture is glass, either in shimmering see-through or or transparent blue colour. Simplicity is the key to making the MM6 shopping experience a special one.
Mulberry First Berlin Store Opening
To continue the expansion of Mulberry into major European cities, the next store is opening in Berlin. It's the first store of the luxury fashion house in the vibrant German capital, bringing anything from the classic Bayswater to the casual Alexa manufactured in the tradition of dedicated craftsmanship with it. Mulberry, being one of the few fashion brands which still produces their goods in the UK, has always retained a focus on detailed leather craft and thereby guaranteed highest quality of their products.
Never forgetting the rural roots of the British brand, the store's design uses natural materials such as oak wood in warm colours or limestone, reminding of the English countryside. The British architects of Universal Design Studio came up with the store's design located at Kurfürstendamm 184.
A special treat welcoming guests at the opening is a kinetic art installation by the artist Frank Hülsbömmer. Besides the ranges of men’s and women’s leather bags as well as women's ready to wear and shoe collections, the Berlin store is home to the Willow Tote in a shiny brown alligator leather. It's the only one of its
kind in the entire world and available nowhere else.
Adidas by Tom Dixon
The first installment of the collaboration between sportswear brand Adidas and industrial designer Tom Dixon was just unveiled at MOST during Salone del Mobile in Milan. A factory installation inside the space of a reconstructed 19th century railway station was the setting for the presentation of the new designs. Sleek sportswear and innovative apparel such as convertible travel bags are the core of the capsule collection.
Inventive garments like a parka that transforms into a sleeping bag or light hoodies to zip up into small pouches are true to Dixon's explorative nature and the forward-thinking technologies employed by Adidas. The highlight of the collection might be a spectacular modular five-in-one overall design that converts to a coat, jacket, pant, skirt, or short at will.
The collection stands out due to its high quality materials and production using British craftmanship. Mid November 2013 adidas by Tom Dixon will hit the stores worldwide.
New Edition of The Little Black Jacket
While the book entitled The Little Black Jacket: Chanel's Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld came out in 2012 and its exhibition already toured cities all around the world, the newest edition is just about to be released this year. On 280 pages the book is paying tribute to Chanel's most iconic tweed jacket.
In January 2013 Karl Lagerfeld invited celebrities to his studio in Paris to shoot more images for the new edition of the book. Internationally well-known stars such as Keira Knightley and Diane Kruger reinterpreted the classic jacket and incorporated its look into their own personal style. The photos were taken by the fashion genius Karl Lagerfeld himself. On the official Chanel website the black and white photos can be seen in an interactive online gallery.
Candy L'Eau by Prada
There's a new girl in town – Candy. Prada's newest l'eau is hitting stores in April 2013 and it is much more than just a fragrance. It envisions the kind of girl that could be the next It-Girl. Independent and questioning the world, witty and intelligent, but also dreamy and sweet. The wearer gets to embody these qualities by just putting on a few drops of Candy – ultimately becoming Candy.
Along with the elegant cylinder shaped flacon in a rosé colour with the gilded Prada script, ZOO Magazine received a special book describing the Candy girl in detail. 'Candy from A to Z' finds matching attributes for every letter of the alphabet referring o the sweet fragrance itself or the kind of person it embodies. A like Armour, C like Caramel, J like Joie de Vivre, P like Party, U like Unpredictable.
It also hints the star of the ad campaign – L like Léa Seydoux. For the l'eau of Candy the French actress reprises as the coquettish woman with the even blonde fringe. The short film about Candy being torn between her two lovers Gene and Julius was shot by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola.
New Converse collections
by Rachel Marie Walsh
How many ways can Converse update their perennially popular Chuck Taylors? Well, this season they’re releasing several new lines with strong, creative themes. Well Worn boasts seven faded, retro-denim styles. The look harkens back to nostalgic American films such as My Girl and Stand By Me, where youngsters in scuffed sneakers experienced friendship, love and loss.
Other lines like Camouflage, Hawaiian and Animal answer questions like: “If a Chuck Taylor were an exotic holiday destination, what would it look like?" Jungle prints, hibiscus patterns and leopard prints showcase the colors of nature and Soho nightclubs.
Collaboration with Jack Purcell brings a touch of femininity, such as a pretty rose print on the plimsolls. Another line co-designed with Finnish brand Marimekko draws attention with crimson strawberry, clouds and spots. John Varvatos toughens things up New York-style, with zips, studs and monochrome colors.
All styles sport traditional chunky soles, breathable uppers and soft lining. You have to hand it to Converse - a brand that never stops reinterpreting a tried-and-true favorite.
Berlin Showroom Fall/Winter 2013-14
While Berlin it is not one of the world’s four principal fashion capitals, its designers are on the right way to establish themselves in the fashion scene. Aside from presenting their new collections at the bi-annual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, this season Berlin designers decided to bring their newest designs to Paris. The event called the Berlin Showroom was the first of its kind. It lasted for four days during Paris fashion week in the beginning of March.
23 designers were carefully selected to participate in the event, amongst them were already well-known designer as well as uprising newcomers. They came together and showcased their work in the Parisian “Espace Topographie de l’art” to over 600 visitors and press.
The professional environment guaranteed success for both designers and buyers, while the fresh feel and enthusiasm of the young event created an inspiring atmosphere. Hopefully the enthusiasm will endure until next season and so the first Berlin Showroom will not remain the last.
Lanvin Summer 2013 Accessories
Not only the good weather is a reason to look forward to summertime, but also Alber Elbaz’ new designs for the Lanvin Summer 2013 accessories collection. The key to the new classic, yet modern designs is a sense of purity and precision, defined by clear and geometrical shapes.
The new shoulder bag Partition features different kinds of leather in graphic shapes and golden metal plates as well as screws. It’s the perfect companion for any occasion. The Stiletto heel reflects traditional craftsmanship and its most innovative part is the mirrored heel. The shoe combines metal pieces with luxurious matte leather. Like the other accessories the jewellery also features a lot of gold. With its large shining surface, the Oracle reflects the beauty of the wearer and is only one piece of jewellery among a series of cuffs, rings, earrings and wide belts reminding of corsets.
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013-14
For the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2013-14 show the space of the runway was transformed into the hallway of a large Parisian hotel. The walls were draped with old fashioned tapestry and 50 doors out of dark brown wood surrounded the audience. The show immediately conveyed a voyeuristic atmosphere with the viewers being left to wonder what goes on behind closed doors and the desire to take a peek inside.
Once the light turned on, a few of the doors opened and the models left their rooms one after another. Among them were Kate Moss and Georgia May Jagger, who was previously photographed by Bryan Adams for ZOO's last Spring Issue. The collection was a mix of luxurious outerwear and intimate lingerie. The combined styling of the two gave the notion of the models being interrupted either while dressing for a night out or undressing for their lovers. Elegant dressing gowns were thrown on and spontaneously fastened with waist belts, tailored blazers appeared as stand-alone pieces revealing the models’ long legs and astrakhan fur coats were worn over slip dresses with lacy hemlines and pajama ensembles.
Many of the coats and dresses featured colour gradient application of sequins, making the patterns of dull plaids more glamorous. Fur linings and lapels as well as feathery details added another alluring touch. The colours were all toned down and no bright colours disturbed the eye. Shining satin and silk fabrics with cutesy patterns of tiny flowers, seductive see-through lace, high quality wool and luxurious fur were the main fabrics of the collection. A number of delicate dresses with flowery embroidery made for a perfect finish, before the models retreated to their hotel rooms once again. Marc Jacobs, being the genius creator of this collection, took his well-deserved bow – fittingly in red pajamas of the Louis Vuitton menswear collection.
Valentino Fall/Winter 2013-14
Inspired by the simplicity of beauty that was the key to the portraiture of the 17th century, the designers of Valentino created a one of a kind Fall/Winter collection for the cold days of 2013-14. Showing off long braids accessorized with simple black headbands, all models were styled the same, which brought out their individual beauty even more. Their pure porcelain skin and puppet like faces complemented the stunning range of garments.
The collection’s most essential fabric was lace. All kinds of delicate lace were used for floor length dresses, bibs, collars, applications and cuffs, adding subtle details to each design. One of the most prominent designs was a dress with long sleeves and a slightly flared skirt ending above the knee. Their either black, red or blue fabrics were the perfect contrast to the creme coloured lace bibs.
All in all the whole collection was all about skirts and dresses and rarely featured any trousers. Occasionally there were a few pleats as well as colourful dresses featuring scalloped hems and see-through fabric. Use of red and white fur, the later with black spots, reminded of royal ermine coats, while leather gave an edge to the sweet looking dresses. Capes with hoods and coats with clear cuts looked like they were from an enchanted tale. The enchanted feel of the collection was underlined by flowery patterns and glittering sequins. Yet again it was another excellent Valentino collection.
Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection
by Rachel Marie Walsh
Lacoste creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptiste and design director Christophe Pillet have taken the label's tenacious crocodile far beyond the tennis court over the last two years. While Baptiste gives the sportswear an urban sensibility, Pillet, who heads Lacoste Lab, works to expand its reach.
Lacoste Lab revives the tradition of innovation, which the prolific Frenchman considers an integral part of the brand’s DNA. The products, mostly outdoor sports equipment, are created through collaborations with carefully-selected partners. Unlike other collaborations, however, the Lacoste brand remains
firmly in place. "These are Lacoste products. They're sold, promoted and designed by Lacoste, but produced by experts," says Pillet.
Pillet's team compiled a shortlist of up-and-coming, state-of-the-art sports brands. “We looked for the most innovative brands, the ones that could offer us real, contemporary technicality, but also the modern ones which are open-minded and enjoy collaborating," he says. "The choice wasn't so hard, because when you look at something like a motorcycle helmet, there's only about five or six brands that really stand out."
The Lacoste Lab 2013 Collection was developed with the young, thrill-seeking consumer in mind. New products include goggles created in partnership with Dragon Alliance, a football, rugby ball and volleyball created with Duarig, petanques with Obut, helmets with Design GPA, and skateboards and snowboards with Artprint and Salomon.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013-14
A unique simplicity has always been one of the essential element of Jil Sander's designs. Her new Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection stays true to her minimalist approach to fashion and clear cuts structure her garments.
Overknee length skirts of flowy light fabrics are part of this year's Fall/Winter collection as are sleeveless dresses with pleat details and deep v-necks. Other tops feature a neckline that resembles a cross between a boat neck and a v-neck. Coats with large pockets and an oversize fit, either worn open or with a belt to accentuate waist and hips, are the highlight of this collection. Their colours vary from a range of blues including navy and azure blue to a bright orange and yellow.
The collection's finale is made up of a number of simple black bandeau dresses with minimalist golden stripes and elegant coats of thick wool and fur. It is the epitome of pure and simple elegance. The signature minimalist design of Jil Sander at its best once again.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
With their Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection Iceberg decided to take a trip to the past. The first look of the runway show included a knitted sweater that re-invented the style of the one that was designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in 1983. However, the creme coloured wool and crisscrossed black leather stripes look more contemporary than ever.
The reoccuring pattern of the whole collection was that of stripes – covering sleeves of sweaters, woven into jumpers wool, spreading diagonally across knee-length pencil skirts. Some pullovers were in a patchwork style mixing various stripey patterns of different colours with leather and furry details. Returning to high quality knitwear from jumpers over fitted cardigans to slouchy knit dresses, a variety of wool was used. While the knitwear featured wide sleeves and soft shapes, the collection also included jackets and blazers with sharp tailoring. Throughout the whole collection the designs had a focus on strong shoulders.
Leather cigarette pants with a slim fit in a bold fuchsia displayed a use of bright colours. Azure blue and lemon yellow were other main colours, beside black and white. The final looks of the collection turned the neat stripes into colourful twirls adorned with numerous sequins. All in all the collection had just the right amount of seriousness, but also a playful touch.
Fire Etchings by Karl Lagerfeld
From oil painings to contemporary photography the portait is one particular form of art that artists have been fascinated with ever since. None other than Karl Lagerfeld has created one of the most recent responses to what contemporary portraiture could look like.
In his exhibition “Karl Lagerfeld: Fire Etchings“ at the Galerie Gmurzynska in St. Moritz, the fashion designer and photographer dicovers a whole new medium for portraiture by using backlit glass and etching images into its surface with fire.
The subjects of the glowing blue, yellow and white images are rapper Theophilus London as well as the models Freja Beha Erichsen and Aymeline Valade – Lagerfeld’s current muses. The exhibition is on display at the Galerie Gmurzynska until the 23rd of March and viewable seven days a week from 10-19 hrs. The gallery is located at Via Serlas 22, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland.
Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013-14
Determined and with a confident walk the models at the Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2013-14 fashion show present the garments for the cold seasons to come. It was Francisco Coasta's goal to bring back the coat with this collection, and so he did.
His original inspiration came from a coat worn by the leading lady in the Russian movie Ivan's Childhood, which looked feminine and very tailored at the same time. The coats of this Calvin Klein collection have broad collars and reinforced shoulders, while at the same time waist belts and pleats keep the shape feminine.
The square golden buckles of the belts reappear on the toe-caps of the chic pumps, which are worn as an alternative to black patent leather boots. While thick twill fabric is used a lot, so is shiny leather for coats, dresses as well as tops with boat necks and cut-out backs. The look of a bandeau top is combined with a high waisted skirt to form a dress that reveals a little more skin than it should in winter time. However, black, creme, deep greens and blues are the ideal colours for the frosty season.
Jason Wu Fall/Winter 2013-14
Extreme Feminity is the theme of Jason Wu's Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. The idea behind it was to dress independent women instead of adolescent girls. Judging from the colours alone, they were more grown up than any of his collections before. The main colours ranged from black over silverish grey with black lace prints to white, while some garments were a warm caramel brown and bright red, just like the Jason Wu gown Michelle Obama donned for her husband's inauguration ball.
Wide collars competed against high buttoned up ones, furry details against feathery dresses. A clear feature of the outerwear were big pockets and lines of black buttons. A variation of black leather belts were worn around the waist of almost model, keeping the serious look together.
The styling was simple yet grown up – evenly parted hair and eyeliner-heavy make up. The scenerey of the runway show had an elegant look to it as well. A massive chandelier was hanging from the ceiling and shiny black tiles marked the path for the models to walk on. However, some garments undeniably retained a playful look with their see-through polka dot patterns and flying pleated skirts.
Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14
Leather-look, all in black and white – these are the leitmotifs of the new Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2013-14 womenswear collection shown at the New York Fashion Week. Of course there are other fabrics such as dark denim as well, but anything leather-looking is surely a fabric of the collection. The new creative director Andreas Melbostad is bringing a rebellious rock chic back.
Zipper details appear on the side of biker jackets or diagonally on extremely short mini skirts. Studs out of dark grey metal cover jackets and dresses, while wide belts with square metal buckles and square hand-held clutches are an accessories to jeans and coats. Never have stand-up collars and tight fitted woolen pants looked more defiant. Wide boyfriend shirts made out of thin fabrics add a casual dimension to the otherwise so slim-looking silhouette of the models.
Determined and strong are the looks Melbostad is going for with his new collection. The models wear black eyeliner, stare coolly into the photographers lenses and their wet hair is combed back sleekly. It's the discovery of the new Diesel Black Gold woman.
Pointer and COMME des GARÇONS Spring/Summer 2013
After last year's successful COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT and Pointer Footwear collaboration, they are pooling their talents once again for the new Spring/Summer 2013 collection. The classic Benjamin model is coming back in bright colours to be worn on sunny summer days.
Two different tri-coloured variations of the Benjamin will be available instead of the usual unicoloured model. One of the variations features a soft pink and an azure blue, while the other one features a deep green and luscious red.
The design of the shoe resembles a classic Derby or Blucher shoe, but at the same time it also passes as sportswear with its white slightly wedged cupsole. Looking dapper and athletic at the same time the shoe is easy to wear to many different occasions. All in all a relaxed yet smart package.
Marc Jacobs becomes Creative Director of Coca Cola Light
It’s time to celebrate! Marc Jacobs is the new Creative Director of Coca Cola Light in 2013. After 30 years of the invention of the low-calorie drink the genious fashion designer is taking the leads to bring the Coca Cola brand forward.
In the new amusing advertisement three girls stumble upon Marc Jacobs posing inside a photo booth with his ice cool Coke tin. He is taking the idea of the Coca Cola Light Man to the next level, taking off his shirt and baring it all. While the flirty tune of I just want to make love to you by Etta James is playing the girls can’t help but steal a glance at the photos the booth spits out. They gasp once they recognise Marc Jacobs: The surprise is out and he just casually announces that it’s time to celebrate his new position.
So raise your glasses (or Coke Light tins) and say cheers to a new Coco Cola era led by Marc Jacobs.
Stone Island S/S 2013 Night Glow Jacket
Some garments of the Stone Island Spring/Summer 2013 collection have a special feature: The ability to glow in the dark. Luminescence techniques have always been fascinating and now Stone Island is pushing them forward with their recent inventions.
The key to the glowing fabric is an extraordinary double-layered polyester piqué that captures light and reflects it when worn in complete darkness. A membrane inserted into the fabric prevents water and wind from entering and makes the jacket a perfect garment to wear outside on a dark and stormy night. Twelve items from hooded jackets over cardigans to waistcoats carry the glow in the dark fabric.
Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 2013-14
Hats, jumpsuits with diagonal zippers, long light coats with slits in the back and cool biker jackets remind of the punk attitude of the musician Patti Smith. Designer Leyla Piedayesh was inspired by Smith when she created her new Lala Berlin Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection.
However, the designer’s ideas are also strongly influenced by her Persian decent. Oriental and ethnical patterns are featured in many of the garments mixed with static geometric patterns.
In terms of shapes there’s a contrast between wide or long tops and extremely short bottoms. Big woolen jumpers are long enough to be worn as dresses, but are paired with very short skirts peeking out underneath. Any material from cashmere over mohair to angora is used for the thick knits and snoods. Other fabrics are different kinds of silk and leather. The range of colours includes black, grey, blue, red as well as a soft pink.
John Varvatos Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign
In John Varvatos' new campaign two generations of guitar virtuosos meet: For once it features the legendary rock guitarist Jimmy Page from Led Zepplin, undoubtedly one of the greatest rock and roll bands of all times. The 28-year old Gary Clark Jr. is his counterpart, a young emerging musician, who released his debut album last Fall and has already been widely praised for his talents as a guitarist, a singer and a songwriter.
“Having 'The Master' and the 'Young Guitar-Slinger' together in our campaign is a dream come true”, says the designer John Varvatos himself. The brand has ever since had an affinity for stylemakers within the rock'n'roll scene.
Photographer Danny Clinch captures the two musicians in a classic black and white portrait. Its simplicity gives the image even more impact. The scenery of the campaign is the famous 1950's concert venue Rivoli Ballroom in South London, where music legends like Tina Turner used to perform. The video clip was shot there as well and is worth taking a look at.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14
Everything looks geometric. A clear structure is the key to the Iceberg Fall/Winter 2013-14 collection. Inspired by the modernist Bauhaus architecture and design, the garments are equally well structured.
Pumping beats and a robotic voice serenaded the models' static walk down the runway, who resemble robots themselves. Square patterns and necklines are key elements of the collection and appear everywhere. Soft cashmere and wool yarns are woven into contradicting rectangular patterns.
All in all the collection has a very modern and sporty feel to it. Apart from black and beige, the dominant colours are a bright red, a shiny yellow and a deep blue. Back to the primary colours, back to the roots.
Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2013-14
From casual outerwear like the green military parka or black leather jacket to smart coats the Balenciaga F/W 2013-14 proves to be versatile. The well-fitted camel jacket or the oversized grey cocoon coat are essential for this year's Balenciaga's menswear collection.
A varied mix of suits and wide pants makes the collection what it is. Graphic prints to fine stripes are covering the high quality fabrics, which vary from wool tweed to velvet. The versatility can not only be seen in style but also in colour: bright to navy blue, dark greens to khaki, different tones of camel, varied shades of grey and black combine well together. Defined cuts give the garments a clear shape and symmetrical buttons add a finishing touch.
Cerruti 1881 Fall/Winter 2013-14
What do you get when an Italian founds and builds a house in Paris? The answer, today, was Cerruti 1881. Long coats in classic colours - black, navy, and camel - were elegant and looked made to match anything. But details - like buttons lining up slyly in the back, a few inches from the hem upwards; or leather-trimmed lapels that in black felt dramatic - were a touch of rebelliousness that felt in line with Paris collections.
Black coats, one in a formfitting suede with a mandarin collar, and another one hooded and loose enough to hide in, added to an aesthetic that seemed to be on a quest for individuality. Subdued sweaters and trousers - ‘basics’ - then reigned this spirit in. And so teetering on a line between very wearable and and a tad bit developmental, the show came to a close, leaving the question of where new designer Aldo Maria Camillo will take the brand in the future.
John Richmond Fall/Winter 2013-14
For Fall/Winter 2013-14, John Richmond got his inspiration from unknow pleasures. The collection was mostly focused on clean lines and geometric silhouettes with influences from sport and a feeling of utility. The combination of natural wool, tailoring and prints on the knitwear defines John Richmond, and makes the collection one to remember.